CORNER ROCK BOULDERING GUIDE

Transcription

1 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 CORNER ROCK BOULDERING GUIDE Boulder Problems by Grade P H O T O : L U K E E V A N S Climbing Location If you like your bouldering steep and proud, Corner Rock is arguably the best single boulder in NC. This picturesque boulder, perched like a stranded ship over Corner Rock Creek, is host to over 25 problems that will put your roof climbing skills to the test. The concentration of classic lines has made Corner Rock a popular local bouldering area and attracted a growing number of climbers from throughout the Southeast. This guide is an update to the original topo created by Dave Sharratt in Corner Rock is located ~35 minutes north of Asheville in the Big Ivy area of Pisgah National Forest. From Asheville, take I-26 W to Barnardsville and head east on Barnardsville Hwy until you see Dillingham Rd on your right. Follow Dillingham Rd into Pisgah National Forest and past a gate for ~1.7+ miles to a sharp bend at Corner Rock Creek with two parking areas. Lat. / Long, : , Access Season You can visit Corner Rock any time of year, but the gate on Dillingham Rd near the entrance to Pisgah National Forest is closed from January 1 st to mid-april. Call the Forest Service office to check when the gate will be open. Camping is not permitted at Corner Rock. Climbing at Corner Rock is possible year-round. The steep climbing is rarely friction dependent and the elevation keeps Corner Rock several degrees cooler than Asheville. The winter gate closure turns a 100 yard hike into a 1.7 mile hike. As a result, the most popular seasons are September to November and April to early June. Owner / Management US Forest Service. Corner Rock is part of the Appalachian Ranger District of Pisgah National Forest. Phone: (828)

2 TRAILSIDE 1. Body Splash 8. V5 Lip Traverse 2. Dyno 3. Undertow 5. Hatchet P1 P2 6. Wax Job 8 4. This Mohican Life 7. Trail of Beers # Name V Grade Description 1 Body Splash V8 AKA Body Spray. Start with a right hand heel match in the Dyno start and move left into improbable looking moves on a sloper and crimps. This problem requires more padding than you might think due to the body splash fall. 2 Dyno V6 Wild dyno to the axe head hold. Don t hesitate and try not to kick your spotter in the face. 3 Undertow V11 Stand start at the jug left of Hatchet and follow the steep line to a low percentage crux at the lip. 4 This Mohican Life V11+ Act II if you ve done Undertow. This line moves into Undertow from the start of Hatchet, adding several powerful roof moves. 5 Hatchet V11 Start on the large shelf with a right heel and move straight out the roof into crimps and a crux just before the lip. Another Dave Sharratt classic. 6 Wax Job V8 Move left from the Hatchet start to the shelf and paw on the feet for the Hatchet crux. Then use some slight of foot to get a right heel and hand to the lip. Pull the lip at a spot with purple wax in the roof and top out straight up or finish on the V5 lip traverse. 7 Trail of Beers V7 Start on Hatchet with a left heel and make a big right hand move to a crimp near the lip. Gain a pinch at the lip and pop up to friendly slopers that lead you around to the front of the boulder. The roof is now harder for short climbers since Taylor ripped off the friendly crimp. 8 V5 Lip Traverse V5 Sit start at the lip and follow Trail of Beers to the top. This is your advanced warm up. 9 Liquor is Quicker V7 AKA Frog Dog. Start on Trail of Beers, but top out straight up after you pull the roof. P1 Project V14+? Chalk this up and dream while resting between burns on Hatchet. P2 Project V12+? The left low sit start to Undertow. Do some steep crimpy climbing and keep your feet on to reach the stand start jug on Undertow.

3 TRAILSIDE P H O T O : J O S H C O O P E R H AT C H E T T H I S M O H I C A N L I F E P H O T O : A D A M J O H N S O N P H O T O : J O S H C O O P E R T O M A H AW K D Y N O B O D Y S P L A S H P H O T O : L U K E E V A N S P H O T O : D A V E S H A R R A T T T R A I L O F B E E R S P H O T O : J O E V I R T A N E N U N D E RT O W V 5 L I P T R AV E R S E

4 CREEKSIDE, LEFT 10. Baby 12. Premature Ejaculation 14. Axe Mode 13. Natty Bumppo Magua Sit # Name V Grade Description 10 Baby V3 Move directly out to the lip from the sit, bring your feet with you, and top out on friendly holds. This is your warm up once you figure out your beta. Pad the ending, not the start. 11 V6 Sit start at the big plate hold and move up to the large shelf. Make a big move to a mailbox slot and then reach out left to the lip. Trend slightly left at the lip to a side pull and prepare for a slopey finish with a dummy crimp. Find double heel toe cams in the shelf for style points. 12 Premature Ejaculation V7 Follow Natty Bumppo, but bow out early on good slopers before the ground drops off towards the creek. You can thank Dan Horne for the name. He snaked the FA from someone planning to name it Dan s Little Horne. 13 Natty Bumppo V9 Start on, but find a way to walk your feet off the shelf to reach roof holds past the mailbox. Then follow the slopey lip to a highball finish. 14 Axe Mode V10 Climb straight out the belly of the boulder from the sit to a highball finish over the creek. The climbing gets spicy right where the ground drops off. Try not to Mary Poppins past the pads when the feet cut. Rami Annab had Axe Mode written in chalk on his chest for the FA. 15 Magua Sit V9- Before there was Magua Assis, there was Magua Sit. From the sit, move up and right across the slopey shelf and finish on Magua. 16 Magua s V9 16. Magua s Start on the slopers for the Hawkeye stand start, reverse the Magua crux, and move left across the shelf to finish on.

5 CREEKSIDE, RIGHT 17. Montcalm 18. Temenund 19. The Mohican P3 20. Magnum 21. Magua 22. Magua Assis 23. Hawkeye 24. Faux-Hawkeye 25. Oeil de Faucon # Name V Grade Description 17 Montcalm V5 Stand start on the boulder and climb left out over the creek to a highball finish. The finish can be padded when the creek is low. 18 Temenund V6 Stand start on the boulder and climb right and up into small corner. Pad the boulder. This problem can also finish at the Magua exit. 19 The Mohican V10 From the Magua start, move right to a square crimp and left into an undercling to set up for a powerful move to the lip. 20 Magnum V13 Alex Brown s Magnum Opus. Start on Magua Assis, but finish on The Mohican instead of Magua. 26. Root of All Evil 21 Magua V8 Start on the large shelf with a scary good heel toe cam and move right to a good crimp and a slot. Pull the roof and rock into a large gaston to reach the top out. Most problems on this page share this finish. Spot directly underneath the climber on the first several moves. 22 Magua Assis V12 Start on two in-cut holds on orange rock in the back of the cave with a good left heel. Make several hard moves on very steep terrain to set up for a double clutch dyno to the shelf. Finish on Magua. There may be a way to get to the shelf static, but you probably won t be breaking the problem. 23 Hawkeye V5+ Stand start on orange slopers. Move left and set a right heel to move into steeper roof moves that merge with Magua. Finish on Magua exit. 24 Faux-Hawkeye V3 Stand start at Hawkeye with a left hand sloper and good right hand edge. Move right to the lip. Follow the juggy lip up and left to the Magua finish. 25 Oeil de Faucon V8+ Start on Magua, then continue right onto the Hawkeye slopers and finish on Faux-Hawkeye or in the large shelf. 26 The Root of all Evil V7 Start on good crimps over the large tree root under the boulder. Maintain tension to stay off the root and top out straight up and into the large shelf. If you feel the need to lay down in the dirt and start on your footholds, this is a V10 put up by Eric Eigner called Low Life Bandit. P3 Project V11/12? The Montpanic project, which begins at the sit start, is a proud, but rarely attempted line with positive holds, weird angles, and scary landings.

6 T O M A H AW K CREEKSIDE A X E M O D E P H O T O : J O S H C O O P E R P H O T O : A D A M J O H N S O N N AT T Y B U M P P O H AW K E Y E P H O T O : S E A L Y C H I P L E Y P H O T O : A D A M J O H N S O N M A G UA A S S I S P H O T O : A L E X B R O W N P H O T O : L U K E E V A N S P H O T O : L U K E E V A N S T H E M O H I C A N M A G UA