BIOFACTS FOR ZOO EDUCATION!

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1 WHAT IS A BIOFACT? BIOFACTS FOR ZOO EDUCATION! Diane Kisich, Science Education Specialist, NASA/UC Berkeley (former Biofact Collections Manager SF Zoo) and Michele Rudovsky, Associate Curator, San Francisco Zoo Carlos Jimenez, Education Assistant, San Francisco Zoo San Francisco Zoo 1 Zoo Road, San Francisco, CA A biofact is an object, such as bones, furs, feathers, eggs, that is a product of a biological agent. The Greek meaning for "bio" is "life" (Costello 1992). The word "fact" comes from the Latin word "factum" which means "an instrument under seal" (Babcock 1981). A biofact is different from an artifact because an artifact is an "object (as a tool or ornament) showing human workmanship or modification as distinguished from a natural object" (Babcock 1981). WHY BIOFACTS? The use of biofacts in zoo education can provide educators with hands-on learning experiences for zoo visitors on topics such as taxonomy, conserving biodiversity, predator/prey interactions, feeding strategies, structural and comparative anatomy. These topics are important building blocks for many science careers such as biology, anthropology, archaeology, medicine, dentistry, veterinary medicine, engineering, teaching, physics, forensic science, etc. As suggested in the Howard Hughes Medical Institute's publication, Meeting the Challenges of Science Education, "We need a new approach that gives students the capabilities to observe, analyze, and find meaning" (1996). They also mention that, "Materials for interactive science must be provided to the teacher" (1996). Biofacts provide some of these materials for zoo educators. LEGALITIES AND PERMITS Educators working with biofacts should be familiar with the laws and agencies governing wildlife. This section provides some basic guidelines. Further clarification may be obtained by contacting your local, state or federal law enforcement agencies. A. Local and State Laws & Permit Guidelines California Department of Fish and Game (CDFG) is the law governing agency for the state of California. Most cities follow the guidelines put forth by CDFG, however, some cities and counties may have additional laws regarding wildlife protection. You should check with your particular city and county for their specific laws. California has its own list of protected, threatened, and endangered species in addition to the ones protected by federal laws (1990a).

2 In California, most non-native species are not protected by existing wildlife laws. However some like the ringneck pheasants are protected by game laws (eg. only males may be shot). Some examples of unprotected non-native bird species are the European starling, English house sparrow, and rock dove ("street" pigeons). Some examples of non-native mammals are wild horses, nutria, Norwegian rat (common house rat), and pigs (there are none native to the United States, they are all of European descent). The 1994 "California Code of Regulations" provides guidelines that cover the collection, transportation, record keeping, and ownership of live or dead animals. The Barclay's 1995 codes provide information for "Scientific Collecting Permits" and "Permits for Possession of Protected Species of Wild Animals for Exhibition Purposes." It is not necessary to obtain a permit to collect bones or a road kill of native California wildlife unless they are listed as a protected, threatened or endangered species. Permits are necessary if the scientists or educators plan to kill the species or take them live, however this type of permit will not be addressed because it is not the focus or intent of this thesis to promote this type of collection. To purchase skulls or bones through a scientific catalog you do not need a permit, unless it is a protected species. Many catalogs will usually sell replicas of protected species, but one should always double check to make sure it is not protected. B. Federal Laws & Permit Guidelines There are eight major federal laws regulating wildlife trade and collection. See Figure 1 for a list of these eight laws and some additional guidelines and their web addresses. METHODS OF PREPARING BIOFACTS A. Record Keeping It is imperative that you keep thorough records of the biofacts that you collect or order for your collection. If your collection is ever inspected by the authorities, they will want to see your records. Two of the best ways is to establish a record keeping system are a card file (have one card for each biofact) or to create a computer database program. If you create a computer database, it is always a good idea to have a hard copy on file. For legal purposes, make sure that each biofact is marked with a number that can be correlated to a record in filing system. You should number your biofact by one of two methods. You can attach a tag to your biofact with the number and other information such as genus species or common name. This method is preferred for study skins. Alternatively, you can write the number on the biofact if it has a surface that you can write on such as a skull, egg, feather or pelt. It is best to use a permanent ink. On the skull the number should be written on the palate. On the lower mandible the number can be written on the inside below the teeth. Here are some of the standard data recorded on collections. For more details on collecting measurements and for measurements to note on bird specimens, refer to Hall (1962). The following data collection is recommended: 1. Location where obtained or purchased (keep any receipts from the purchase).

3 2. Date when acquired or purchased. 3. Genus, species, and common name 4. Additional information (especially if specimen was found as a road kill) animal weight; body length; tail length; hind foot length; ear length (on mammals); who prepared; method of preparation; exactly where found (for example: 2 miles south of John Daly Blvd. on Hwy 35 in the southbound lane on the right shoulder). Please note, when collecting some of this data, it is important to take precautions to prevent disease transmission. B. Preparing Furs/Pelts The best way to preserve a pelt is by the method of tanning. Tanning a pelt manually is a lot of work and it is recommend that you send or bring the pelt to a professional tanning such as New Method Fur Dressing Company (131 Beacon Street, South San Francisco, CA 94080, Phone: (415) , Fax: (415) ). However you should call them first to find out the condition they want to receive the pelt in. Usually the pelt must be free of fat tissue, salted and not frozen. If blood gets on the pelt during the process of preparing it to send to the tannery, use cold water or hydrogen peroxide to remove it. The cost to have something tanned is very reasonable. The New Method Fur Dressing Company serves many people including museum professionals from all over the United States. C. Wet Specimens Refer to Adams (1983) for methods of keeping wet specimens. D. Study Skins It is best if you can take a lesson in taxidermy to gain hands-on experience rather than learning from a book. Many universities have wildlife or biology museums with staff who may be helpful and some universities offer courses in taxidermy. Natural history museums also have staff that perform taxidermy and maybe a good contact for information. In the past, the Northern California National Association of Interpreters (NAI) has hosted a workshop called "Playing with parts"(nai, P.O. Box 1892, Fort Collins, CO 80522, (970) or (970) FAX: (970) ). One source that provides a fairly complete bibliography on methods of taxidermy is S. Rogers, M. Schmidt, and T. Gutebier "An Annotated Bibliography on Preparation, Taxidermy, and Collection Management of Vertebrates with Emphasis on Birds." Special Publication No. 15, Carnegie Museum of Natural History, Pittsburgh. E. Skeletal Mounts and Articulations There are several methods used to prepare bones. The following is a list of methods and sources to find more in-depth information. 1. Burying: a. The more flesh you clear off the quicker the bones will be clean. b. Bury in fine dirt or sand if possible. c. Make sure roots are cleared away and will not creep in and damage bones.

4 d. Bury at least three feet under ground, but not more than five feet. If you bury the biofact too deep it can be damaged by the water table. Besides, most of the decomposing organisms live in the top few feet of the soil. e. The amount of time the bones are left underground is determined by the amount of flesh that is left on the bone, the size of the biofact and the climate. Typically a biofact that is five inches will take about four months to be cleaned and a ten inch biofact would take about six months. As the biofact gets larger the time to completion takes longer. f. Once the biofact is buried place a cover over the top to prevent predators from digging it up. Wire fencing or mesh works well to let the rain water in to assist in the decomposition process of the biofact. g. Dig up and check the biofact. If the biofact does not look ready, then rebury and check again at a later date. If the clumps of dirt brush off fairly easily, then the biofact can be cleaned in a diluted bleach solution. Make sure that you are not putting any live organisms into your collection. You may want to bake the bones in an oven for several hours to kill microorganisms, insects and eggs laid by insects. Some people have suggested using a microwave to get rid of the insects, and eggs, however we have not used this method so you would have to experiment with it. You can also soak the bones in a diluted bleach solution for a few days. If you choose to soak the bones in a diluted bleach solution, make sure there are no air spaces and try to change the solution every other day. The strength of the solution will vary depending on the size and how delicate the skull is. 2. Dermestid Beetles a. A dermestid beetle colony can be obtained through Carolina Biological. The general rule is if the specimen is smaller than a squirrel you should use beetles if available. b. An additional reading source for creating and maintaining a dermestid collection for cleaning skeletons is: R. Hall and W.C. Russell (1933). "Dermestid beetles as an aid in cleaning bones". Journal of Mammalogy. 14(4) pp This paper provides useful information even though it was published in c. You should bake the bones after removing them from the dermestid beetle colony to ensure that you kill any beetles or beetle eggs that may be in the hollow portions of the bone. If you do not bake the bones the beetles can destroy the rest of your biofact collection. You can also use bleach or microwave as mentioned above. 3. Boiling a. Boiling bones removes the flesh but fragile bones can be damaged. b. This is not a good method if you are concerned about the small details of the skull. c. Be careful not to over boil the bones. Smaller skulls need less time than larger skulls. You may have to peel some of the remaining tissue off the bones. BIOFACT MAINTENANCE A. Cleaning These guidelines apply to a hands-on classroom collection, not to collections at the scientific research level.

5 1. Skulls and bones a. A feather duster or soft cloth works well to remove light dirt. b. Rinse with warm water to remove dirt that is present after dusting. c. Use a light bleach solution for heavier dirt. Then rinse well with water. Please note that bleach can disintegrate thin bone, so do not use bleach on fragile bones or skulls. d. Use of a toothbrush can assist in removing dirt on sturdier skulls or bones. Use caution with fragile skulls. 2. Furs/Pelts Depending on the quality of the pelt, you may be able to just shake it out. Oils from your hands can be damaging to pelts over time. However, in the case of a classroom collection the learning experience would not be the same if the pelts were not touched, therefore, you should expect some deterioration to occur over the years. 3. Feathers a. A feather duster works well to remove dust from the feathers. b. You can also use a soft cloth or warm water to remove heavier dirt. c. Do not use a bleach solution because it will disintegrate the feathers. B. Repair Methods Should an accident or breakage occur in your biofact collection there are some simple household products that you can use to make repairs. Most repairs to bones or teeth can be done with white glue which is water soluble and easy to reverse or undo if necessary. In permanent research collections, such as those housed at natural history museums, it is important that the process used to fix a biofact can be reversed or undone so that if there is a better method that comes along in the future they can remove the old substance and use the new substance. In a classroom collection reversing the repair may not concern you and you may choose instead to use a quick fix glue such as a super glue. There are many advantages to super glue such as quick drying properties, dries clearer than white glues and the repair will most of the time last longer than white glue. These glues are also helpful in strengthening or repairing fissures or cracks in eggs. Pelts and study skins are harder to fix because when fur falls out of the follicles it is not replaceable. Rips or tears can be sewn or glued depending on their condition. If you start finding holes in pelts, study skins or live mounts immediately check for insects. MOUNTING SKULLS AND EGGS Mounting can extend the life of the skulls or eggs in your collection by protecting them from rough handling by zoo visitors. You can either mount them in foam or on a piece of plastic with curved edges. Plastic can be cut in wide enough pieces to stick out beyond the width of the skull. The ends can be bent up or glued on at an angle. A skull or other biofact can be glued onto the plastic. If the unit flips over or falls sideways, it lands on the edges of the plastic and not on the skull. To mount the skull to the plastic, use either white glue or super glue. White glue is water soluble and good to use if you do not want the skull to be permanently mounted to the plastic. If

6 you want the skull to be permanently mounted to the plastic then go ahead and use a super glue. Plastic boxes can also be made to fit the size of a skull or eggs. A place in the bay area to obtain or design plastic mounts or boxes is: TAP Plastics, Inc., 154 Van Ness Ave. San Francisco, CA 94103; (415) FAX: (415) It is best to obtain ethafoam and cut a piece to fit in the box. Then cut an impression of the biofact into the foam so it fits snugly around your specimen. The biofact is then padded and protected and can be removed when necessary. In the Bay Area ethafoam can be obtained at: House of Foam, 150 Hamilton, Palo Alto, CA (415) Ethafoam is a bit more expensive than other foams however it does not break down as quickly as other foams. Do not use foam rubber (polyurethane) because it breaks down quickly, crumbles and adheres to your biofacts. If you choose another foam make sure that it does not break down quickly or emit gaseous odors that can be damaging to your biofacts. See the next section on storage for further use of ethafoam in your hands-on collection. STORAGE If you are planning to create your own hands-on collection, We recommend getting the 1995 book Storage of Natural History Collections: A Preventative Conservation Approach by C. Rose, et al. You can get this book by contacting the: Society for the Preservation of Natural History Collections: c/o Julia Golden, Department of Geology, The University of Iowa, 121 Trowbridge Hall, Iowa City, Iowa (319) This book provides detailed information on maintaining a collection. Many good references are available after each topic area allowing you to further pursue the topic. Another good reference for maintaining a collection is the "Museum Handbook, Part 1" produced in 1991 by the National Park Service. This handbook is not as comprehensive as the book mentioned above, however, it does provide several good references on collection management. You can obtain a copy by writing to: Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C , #1991 O : QL 3 NPS Museum Handbook, Part I. You should always keep your storage area extremely clean. One of the biggest dangers to your collection are insects. Make sure that your storage area is well sealed to keep out insects and dust. In fact, many collection managers recommend that storage cabinets be above the ground to allow easy access for cleaning up dust that can harbor underneath. This helps eliminate creatures such as dust mites from getting into your collection. Other crucial factors in storing biofacts are temperature and humidity. Inconsistent temperature and humidity in your storage cabinet may cause the biofacts to expand and contract resulting in fractures or breaks in your biofact. A good temperature range for storage of biofacts is at a room temperature of about 65 F give or take 5 F. "The risk of damage to objects that are moved frequently from cold to warm conditions also must be considered" (Rose et al 1995). Also if the storage cabinet reaches a relative humidity of 70% or above, it becomes a perfect environment for mold and bug growth. A relative humidity at or below 25% can cause damage by dehydrating and destroying cells in the biofacts (ibid). If you do not have storage facilities you can use plastic containers. You can buy them at discount stores or drug stores. Well sealed plastic containers are good for keeping out insects but can sometimes get a little humid. If the box feels moist, avoid humidity problems by getting

7 silica at a sail boat supply store or at closet accessory stores. If you want to build a museum quality storage cabinet refer to David W. von Endt's et al article on "Evaluating Materials Used for Constructing Storage Cases" in Rose et al (1995). He discusses how certain materials may produce a vapor which can deteriorate the biofacts. Another thing to consider is that the use of wood to build a storage cabinet can promote insects in your biofact collection. Many insects love to make their homes in wood or eat wood. PEST MANAGEMENT Pest management is an important component to maintaining a biofact collection. The most common pests you will probably encounter in a hands-on collection are insects. However, if you do not have a good storage cabinet, rodents can also pose a problem. Things to look for in discovering an infestation of insects are piles of fine dust near biofacts or in your storage cabinet caused by two different things: 1) The insects boring into the biofacts to live and or eat it. 2) The dust can be the feces of the insects. The placement of "sticky traps", such as those made for cockroaches, can be useful in trapping other insects that may be invading your storage cabinet. With the "sticky traps" you can identify the problem and take the appropriate steps to correct it. If you are having trouble identifying or trapping the insects, contact the Department of Agriculture in your county. They usually will identify the insects free of charge and may be able to recommend the best way to treat the infestation. Other methods of treatment can be found in Rose et al (1995) under the chapter on pest management. Since this is a hands-on collection it is important to take precautions when treating the collection for an infestation so that students are not affected. Moth balls are effective at keeping pests away from your biofacts. Vacuuming inside and outside your storage cabinet is also helpful in lowering the risk of dust and insects getting into your collection. Once an infestation is discovered, it is important to determine how the insects gained access and fix the problem. We feel that using biofacts in zoo education is a method which promotes hands-on learning experiences for zoo visitors. We hope you can use this information to create innovative activities to educate people about animals and our environment. REFERENCES n.a Meeting the Challenges of Science Education Reform. Chevy Chase, Maryland: Howard Hughes Medical Institute. n.a. 1990a. FACTS About Federal Wildlife Laws. United States Fish and Wildlife Service, Department of the Interior. August (leaflet). Adams, C Road-killed animals as resources for ecological studies. The American Biology Teacher. 45(5), September pp Babcock, P The Webster's Third New International Dictionary of the English Language Unabridged. Springfield, Mass: G & C Merriam Company. Costello, R Random House Webster's College Dictionary. New York, New York: Random House.

8 Hall, R. & W.C. Russell Dermestid beetles as an aid in cleaning bones. Journal of Mammalogy. 14(4) pp Hall, R Collecting and Preparing Study Specimens of Vertebrates. Lawrence, Kansas: Museum of Natural History, The University of Kansas. Rogers, S.P., M. Schmidt, and T. Gutebier An Annotated Bibliography on Preparation, Taxidermy, and Collection Management of Vertebrates with Emphasis on Birds. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: Carnegie Museum of Natural History. Special Publication No. 15. Rose, C.L., C. Hawks and H. Genoways Storage of Natural History Collections: A Preventive Conservation Approach. Iowa City, Iowa: Society for the Preservation of Natural History Collections. Watson, A.G In toto Alcian Blue staining of the cartilagenous skeleton in mammalian embryos. Anatomical Record. 187(4) p Figure 1: Wildlife Laws Online U.S. FISH & WILDLIFE SERVICE WEBSITE LACEY ACT ENDANGERED SPECIES ACT CITES THE AFRICAN ELEPHANT CONSERVATION ACT MARINE MAMMAL PROTECTION ACT MIGRATORY BIRD TREATY ACT WILD BIRD CONSERVATION ACT EAGLE PROTECTION ACT BIRDS AND BIRD FEATHERS WHAT ABOUT BUYING OR SELLING WILDLIFE WITHIN THE UNITED STATES? BUYER BEWARE