LISBON, SINTRA, PORTO & THE DOURO VALLEY

Transcription

1 LISBON, SINTRA, PORTO & THE DOURO VALLEY Eating & Seeing it All! 1

2 Download your interactive Google Map to your phone or computer here. Lisbon The Route How does the Travel Honey Contributor describe their trip? This itinerary is for an 8 day adventure to Lisbon and up the north coast. Katy, the Travel Honey Contributor, went on this adventure with a friend. They hit all the sights sought out the local hotspots for food and drinks. They spent 3 nights in Lisbon, 1 night in Sintra, 2 nights in Douro Valley, and 2 nights in Porto. Although They ate at top restaurants and above average lodging, the trip was affordable because Portugal is cheap! This itinerary is very much on-the-go, but if you want a slower-paced trip, just pick the activities that most appeal to you. Who Took This Amazing Trip? Meet Katy, our savvy traveler. She researches a ton and talks to anyone she knows who has been. But once she s there, she tries to talk to locals and not to stick to a strict schedule. She usually likes to hit the highlights but gets turned off if things that are too touristy. She likes to seek out the local favorites for food and nightlife. Katy also enjoys taking photographs so is always looking for good vistas sunrises/sunsets. Click here to learn more about Katy s travel style and view more photos from her trip here. What is Travel Honey? At we find expert travelers and document where they stayed, ate, explored and how they got around along with what they loved and would have done differently. Don t forget to use the interactive map of the itinerary! If you need access to the interactive map, have questions, or want to tell us about a trip, we d love to hear from you at support@travelhoney.com. 2

3 OVERVIEW* * Dark blue text in this highlihgts page links to more details; bright blue text is an external link SCHEDULE DAY 1: DAY 2: We arrived Lisbon mid-morning and spent the afternoon in Belem. ACTIVITIES Residentas Atalaia Visit Jerónimos Monastery Visit Belém Tower Visit Padrao dos Descobrimentos MEALS Time Out Market A Cevicheria DAY 3: Explore the Alfama neighborhood. ACTIVITIES Memmo Alfama Visit Castelo de S. Jorge Miradouro da Graça Visit Igreja and Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora Relax and Memmo Alfama MEALS Residentas Atalaia Bistro Gato Pardo Caso SÉrio DAY 5: Drive north to the Douro Valley stopping in Obidos and Nazare. ACTIVITIES Quinta do Bosque Visit Obidos Visit Sao Miguel Arcanjo Fort MEALS Aguamel Guesthouse Restaurante Rosa Dos Ventos Tasca do Zequinha DAY 7: Breakfast in the Douro Valley then drive about hour to Porto to explore. ACTIVITIES Casa dos Loios Visit Clérigos Tower Ride the Funicular Visit Porto Cathedral Visit Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar MEALS Quinta do Bosque Adega São Nicolau Tapabento Spend the day walking around the heart of Lisbon. ACTIVITIES Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara Visit Arco da Rua Augusta Visit Miradouro de Santa Catarina Visit Basilica da Estrela Ferry Ride to Calcinhas MEALS Casa Brasileira O Prego da Peixaria Bettina & Niccolo Corallo Bistro 100 Manieras DAY 4: Head to Taormina via ferry arriving in time for dinner. ACTIVITIES Aguamel Guest House Wander Cascais Visit Pena Palace Visit Castelo de Mouros Visit Quinta da Regaleira Visit Palace of Monserrate MEALS Memmo Alfama Casa Piriquita Caldo Entornado DAY 6: Have a lazy morning or try a walk, bike ride or boat ride. ACTIVITIES Wine Quinto do Seixo Wine Quinto do Tedo MEALS Quinta do Bosque Castas e Pratos DOC DAY 8: Wander Porto and do a port tasting on your last day. ACTIVITIES Visit Church of Saint Ildefonso Visit Praca de Carlos Alberto Visit Igreja do Carmo View Miradouro da Vitoria Port Graham s Port Lodge MEALS Casa dos Loios Restaurante DOP DeCastro Gaia THE BASICS WHERE TO STAY: Residentas Atalaia Memmo Alfama Aguamel Guest House Quinta do Bosque Casa dos Loios For more lodging recommendations, click here for Lisbon and here for Porto and the Douro Valley. INSIDER TIPS: What to Pack What to Book/do Ahead Rental Car Tips Arrival Tips Spending Tips Using Your Cell Phone in Portugal Getting Around Whether to Buy a Lisbon Card What Do I Say Tips on Eating & Drinking Departure Tips One More/Less Day NOTE: We do our best to check regularly, but hours and costs are subject to change. SHARE YOUR AWESOME EXPERIENCE! Make sure you tag honey & use the hashtag #travelhoney TRAVEL JUST GOT SWEETER travelhoney.com

4 Background Info View of Porto Why here? We chose Lisbon, because it s a must if visiting Portugal for the first time. We chose to head north to Porto instead of south to the Algarve, because it wasn t beach weather in November and there would be more to do. Our love of wine made the Douro Valley a must. Time of year It s shoulder season in late November/early December so it was easy to find hotels, and the weather was unusually warm. In the high 60s/low 70s and lows in the 50s with only a couple cloudy/rainy days. See here for more on Portugal weather. Costs Average lodging per night: $75 Average dinner per person:$35 (usually apps, dinner and lots of wine!) Average costs of activities a day per person: $18 (the most expensive being wine tasting in the Douro Valley) Average cost of travel a day per person: $16 Driving required Although it s relatively easy to get from Lisbon to Sintra and Sintra to Porto by train, if you want the flexibility to make stops and easily get to the Douro Valley, rent a car - it s easy and cheap. It s a mix of mainstream (you ll see the highlights) and off the beaten path (food/drink) Physical activity level Foodie Art/architecture focused Cultural/historical Symbols to Remember Accommodation Activities Attractions Dining Nightlife Return to Highlights Page Rating System 4

5 Day 1 Day 1 To check out arrival and other insider tips before jumping into the itinerary, click here. We arrived mid-morning and spent the afternoon in Belem. So long as you arrive by lunchtime and it s not a Monday, I suggest starting with the TimeOut Market for lunch then spend the afternoon in Belem visiting Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower/Torre Belem and Padrão dos Descobrimentos. You ll have time for a siesta before dinner (or take a nap before if you arrive on a redeye). Day 1 Transport: Walk to the Time Out Market; take the tram just outside the market to Belem, walk in Belem, then take the tram back. Walk to dinner. Lisbon Tips We chose to stay in two different neighborhoods: Barria Alta, a hip hilltop neighborhood with great bars and restaurants and Alfama, a quieter more historic neighborhood. If you prefer to stay in one location, choose the neighborhood that fits you best. Lisbon is extremely hilly, so you ll get a workout but you ll also be rewarded by spectacular Miradouros (viewpoints). If you make an attempt to say anything in Portuguese, the locals will be very appreciative. Learn what to say here. Residentas Atalaia Time Out Market Description/Tips: Great apartments in Barria Alta (it s at the top of the hill, so be prepared to walk or take tram/uber). Barria Alta is full of bars and restaurants but Residentas Atalaia is on a quiet street. Rooms were very clean and super cute. Our room included a separate couch and little table. They left us pastries and Ginga (cherry wine), and fruit/yogurt in refrigerator. The woman I ed was super responsive and helpful. My only complaint was that the bed was a little hard (that s a preference) and the bathroom is a little outdated. Tip: You need a code to enter the apartment, so you need to either go directly to their office around the corner (make sure you get their address before you arrive) or have a phone available to call when you arrive. FINAL THOUGHTS: A great affordable option for staying in Barria Alta with a little more space than a hotel room (just be ready to walk up the hill to get there!) Cost: $88 for a two twin beds, a small kitchen and area for small table and couch. Address: Rua da Atalaia, 205-1, Misericordia, Lisbon, Portugal Description/Tips: Also called Mercado Da Ribeira, the market is in a huge open building with communal seating in the center and food stalls along the edge. There s a huge variety of vendors, including many Lisbon restaurants (those with Michelin stars advertise so in big letters). It s great option if you crew has varied tastes. They also serve alcohol. It was full of locals and tourists. It gets busier at night, so lunch is a good option. It s also right next to the 15 Tram, which goes to Belem. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go at least once while in Lisbon! Cost: Cod over chickpeas and chickpea puree for 11. Hours: Sunday to Wednesday 10am-12am; Thursday to Saturdays 10am-2am Address/Directions: Av. 24 de Julho 49, Lisboa. Close to the water near the Cais do Sodre station. 5

6 Day 1 Visit Jerónimos Monastery Description/Tips: The church is beautiful and free, and I thought it was worth paying to go in the Cloisters, which allows you to out back and upstairs in the church. Camera tip: from upstairs, you can put your camera on the banister (to steady it for a dark photo), because they don t allow tripods. There s a Natural History Museum next door, if you have time and a desire to go. FINAL THOUGHTS: Definitely go in the church and I thought it was worth paying to see the Monastery! Cost: It s free to go in the church, but you have to pay 10 euros to visit the Monastary and upstairs to the church Cloister if you don t have a Lisbon card (you can also buy a combined ticket with the Belem Tower for 12 euros). Hours: Oct - May (10am-5:30pm, last admission at 5pm); May - Sept (10am-6:30pm, last admission at 6pm) Approximate length of time: I thought 45 minutes was enough, but it would be longer if there s a long line or you want to really take your time. (you have to walk up some stairs if you want to go to the cloisters of the church.) Address/Directions: Praça do Império Lisboa, Portugal. Take the 15 tram from Cais Sodre (just outside and to the left of the Time Out Market if you have your back to the Market). The monastery is the stop after Belem, but if you get off before, it s a pretty walk and you ll walk by Pasteis de Belem, a famous bakery. You have to press button to open doors on the tram. Want a tasty treat after lunch? Day 1 Pasteis de Belem - I m still kicking myself that I didn t stop at the famous bakery in Belem to get a pasteis de Belem, a tasty dessert that the bakery made famous. I d thought it was a tourist trap, but many locals confirmed that you can get them all over Lisbon, nothing beats them fresh out of the oven from the source. Just be prepared to wait in line! Visit Belém Tower Description/Tips: The entry level and downstairs are not super interesting (just some cannons) but the upstairs is beautiful, and you get some stunning views of the 25 de Abril Bridge bridge. But don t go upstairs if you get claustrophobic, it s a narrow passageway that can get crowded (although you can get off at multiple floors, so you do not feel too trapped!). FINAL THOUGHTS: The views are worth paying the fee to go inside if the weather is nice. Cost: It is free to look at from the outside, but you have to pay 6 euros to go inside and upstairs if you do not have a Lisbon Card (you can also buy a combined ticket with the Belem Tower for 12 euros). Hours: Oct - May (10am-5:30pm, last admission at 5pm); May - Sept (10am- 6:30pm, last admission at 6pm) Approximate time: I spent about 45 minutes, which I thought it was sufficient. (you have to walk up a good number of stairs to get to the top of the tower.) Address/Directions: Av. Brasília, Lisboa, Portugal. There s no street number, so use the Travel Honey map to locate. It is about a 20 minute walk from the Jerónimos Monastery or you can take the 15E tram. 6

7 Day 1 Visit Padrao dos Descobrimentos Description/Tips: A monument to Portuguese discoveries. You can take the stairs or elevator for a great view of Lisbon and the Belem Tower. FINAL THOUGHTS: If the weather is nice, pay to go to the terrace. Cost: It is free to view from the outside, but you have to pay 5 euros to get to terrace (you get a small discount with a Lisbon card) Hours: Oct - Feb (10am-6pm, last admission at 5:30pm); March - Sept (10am-7pm, last admission at 6:30pm) Approximate time: If you go up the elevator, you ll spend about 30 minutes. elevator). (if you take the (if you take the stairs.) Address/Directions: Avenida Brasilia, Lisbon , Portugal. There s no street number, so use the Travel Honey map to locate. It is about a 20 minute walk from Belem Tower. Outside Jerónimos Monastery Want a shopping alternative? LX Factory - A cool industrial space with a cool indoor and outdoor market with folks selling artwork, handmade and vintage goods. There is also an indoor space art exhibitions along with bars, restaurants and often live music. I went on a Sunday and there were more locals than tourists. You can walk through the outdoor market in 30 minutes but you can spend longer wandering. A Cevicheria Description/Tips: We had delicious and innovative hot and cold dishes that are meant to be shared. A really cool scene that seemed very popular with the locals. We did not make reservations but we went on a Sunday night and had to wait outside for a bit (there are a couple high top tables where you can order drinks). FINAL THOUGHTS: Go if you like seafood, it was one of the best meals I had in Portugal! Cost: $105 for 3 cocktails, a bottle of wine, water, 4 dishes and a dessert Hours: 12:00pm - 12:00am Address/Directions: R. Dom Pedro V 129, Lisboa, Portugal. Just above the northern edge of the Barria Alto neighborhood. Click here for more lodging, food and drink ideas! 7

8 Day 2 Spend the day walking around the heart of Lisbon. The earlier you get started, the more you ll see. Be prepared for hills and tired legs! Day 2 Day 2 Route Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara Description/Tips: An amazing place to see the sunrise over Lisbon, and if you arrive a few minutes before sunrise, you can see Castelo de Jorge still lit up. FINAL THOUGHTS: If you are in the area, stop by for an awesome view. Cost: Free Hours: It is always open and offers a great view, day or night. Approximate time: You can take photos in 15 minutes, but if you ll want to stay longer if you are watching the sunrise or set. (if you have to walk up); (if not) Address/Directions: There is no address number, but it s very close R. São Pedro de Alcântara 81, Lisboa, Portugal. The tram stops closeby or you can walk up the hill. Casa Brasileira Description/Tips: A famous Lisbon bakery with delicious pastries. There a few bad reviews on TripAdvisor, but they are for sit down service. We stood at the counter like the locals and had great service. We just pointed to what we wanted. It sounds crazy for breakfast, but try the codfish fritters. The sweet baked goods were also delicious. FINAL THOUGHTS: A great, quick, breakfast option. Cost: About $8 for 4 pastries and a coffee Hours: Opens at 7am Address/Directions: R. Augusta 267, 1100 Lisboa, Portugal. It s right in the heart of Lisbon, so easy to walk to. If you re coming from the Barrio Alta, walk by Igreja de São Roque on your way. 8

9 Day 2 Day 2 Visit Arco da Rua Augusta Description/Tips: A historical building and arch in the center of Lisbon built to commemorate the Lisbon s reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. FINAL THOUGHTS: It s easy to get to and quite pretty, so there s no reason to miss it! Hours: It s always open, but go early if you photos without pedestrians. Approximate time: You can walk around and take photos in 15 minutes. Address/Directions: R. Augusta 2, Lisboa, Portugal. At the water in the center of Lisbon. If you walk down R. Augusta, there are cute shops along the way. Visit Miradouro de Santa Catarina Description/Tips: One of the many viewpoints that looks over Lisbon. The area where you stand to take the photos isn t anything special, but the view is amazing. There is a bar with live music if you want to grab a drink and watch the sunset. FINAL THOUGHTS: If the weather is nice, this view is a must! Cost: Free Hours: Always open. Approximate length of time: 20 minutes if you re just taking photos. (if you re walking up the hill to get there) Address/Directions: 401, R. de Santa Catarina, 1200 Lisboa, Portugal. About a 3/4 mile walk from Arco da Rua Augusta. View from Miradouro de Santa Catarina 9

10 Day 2 Visit Basilica da Estrela Description/Tips: The church itself was closed for renovations, but we paid 4 Euro to climb to the top of the dome. It s a small narrow spiral staircase, so beware if you get claustrophobic. We were rewarded with spectacular views of Lisbon and views from down into the church. There were also very few tourist, which was a plus. FINAL THOUGHT: A hidden gem, don t miss if you like beautiful churches and awesome city views. Cost: Free to enter the church, 4 Euro to climb the stairs to the dome Hours: 8AM-1PM, 3PM-8PM (but there are often unscheduled closings, always ask if the roof is open) and walk up the stairs.) (to walk there Approximate time: An hour to see the church and climb the stairs to the cloister and outside terrace. Address/Directions: Praça da Estrela, Lisboa, Portugal. There s no street number, so use the Travel Honey map to locate. It s about a mile walk from the Miradouro de Santa Catarina heading left if your back is to the river. Enjoy wandering through the narrow streets and make sure to pass the Assembleia da Republica, which is an impressive white columned building. There s also a tram stop (Tram 28) right outside. O Prego da Peixaria Description/Tips: A trendy sandwich shop with cool decor, communal tables and excellent wait staff. We got the shrimp burger and salmon/cuttlefish burger, both with homemade bread a both delicious. They also offered salads, but do not miss out on the amazing burgers/sandwiches! Note that they only take Portuguese credit cards so bring cash. There can be a line though if it s the busy season, so you may have to wait. FINAL THOUGHTS: It should have 5 stars on TripAdvisor; go if you like super tasty imaginative food and funky/stylish decor. Cost: $35 for two sandwiches and a bottle of wine Hours: 12:30PM 12AM (1am on Sat and Sun) Address/Directions: Rua da Escola Politecnica 40, Lisboa, Portugal. About a.8 mile walk from Basilica da Estrela, make sure you walk through Jardim da Estrela (a public garden) to get there. O Prego da Peixaria 10

11 Day 2 Bettina & Niccolo Corallo Description/Tips: A high quality chocolate shop, a little pricy for Portugal but delicious chocolate. They also serve coffee. Cost: A few euro for a piece of chocolate, you pay by the pound. Hours: 11am-7pm Address/Directions: Rua da Escola Politécnica 4A, Lisboa. Just up the block from O Prego da Peixaria. Recommendation Head back through the winding streets to your accommodation and chill for a little bit if you re exhausted, skip the ferry ride and rest up for dinner. Ferry Ride to Calcinhas Description/Tips: Take the ferry with enough time to watch the sunset (the boats come about every minutes). You get amazing views looking back at Lisbon and of the 25 de Abril Bridge. Calcinhas was pretty quiet when we went, but there are places along the water to have a drink outside if it s warm out. FINAL THOUGHTS: If you still have energy the first day and you enjoy nice views, take this ferry ride at sunset. Cost: About $2 for a return ferry ticket. Hours: It s best to go when you can see the sunset Approximate time: It took about 1.5 hours to take the ferry over, take pics and come back, but you can definitely spend longer. to the ferry terminal.) (if you re walking Description/Address: Terminal Fluvial do Cais Sodré, , Lisboa, Portugal. The ferry leaves from Cais do Sodre (inside the building next to where you take the tram to Belem). Just follow signs for a ferry to buy a ticket. Bistro 100 Manieras Description/Tips: A great combination of high quality service, fine dining, creative dishes and a fun atmosphere (e.g., food hanging from a clothesline!). There is a restaurant nearby by the same owners and same name, it is smaller and has a tasting menu for 60 euros. FINAL THOUGHTS: A little pricy for Lisbon but a deal anywhere else, so definitely go if you can afford it! Cost: About 25 to 35 euros for a main dish Hours: 7.30pm to 2.00am (kitchen closes at 12pm) Address/Directions: Largo da Trindade, 9, Chiado Lisboa, Portugal. In the heart of Lisbon. Have more time in Calcinhas? Cristo Rei statue - From the ferry terminal in Calcinhas, you can take a 20 minute bus ride (bus #101) to the Cristo Rei statue, which has an elevator/stairs that take you about 330 feet to an overlook platform. Click here for more lodging, food and drink ideas! 11

12 Day 3 Day 3 Explore the Alfama neighborhood. The Alfama neighborhood is a lot quieter than Barria Alta but it s full of historical sites and a great place to unwind. This day wasn t as packed, so enjoy the gorgeous views at the Alfama and the deck/pool if it s nice weather. Day 3 Route Memmo Alfama Description/Tips: A beautiful hotel in the Alfama neighborhood that has a pool, outdoor seating area, and bar/restaurant with amazing views. The room was nice but a little small (we could have gone bigger if we paid more) and they didn t offer the option to do twin beds. The staff though at Memmo Alfama was fabulous, they were very knowledgeable and helpful. FINAL THOUGHTS: Stay here if you love great service and want a serene setting in Lisbon. Cost: $167 for a queen bed and smallish room. Address/Directions: Tv. Merceeiras 27, Lisboa, Portugal Don t miss the Memmo Alfama walking tour! Memmo Alfama has a free walking tour at 10am tour that was highly recommended on TripAdvisor. We were bummed that we arrived too late, so make sure you re there by 10am if you want to join the tour! Residentas Atalaia We took advantage of the yogurt/fruit/cereal provided by Residentas Atalaia. 12

13 Day 3 Day 3 Visit Castelo de S. Jorge Description/Tips: Although the castle is more impressive from the outside than inside, you can wander around the ruins and catch the amazing views of Lisbon. Also, don t miss the peacocks who live inside! FINAL THOUGHTS: The views alone are worth the fees! Cost: 8.50 Euros (6.50 with the Lisbon Card) Hours: Nov - Feb (9am-6pm), Mar - Oct (9am- 9pm) Approximate time: An hour to get there, wander and take photos. castle) (if you walk to the Address/Directions: R. de Santa Cruz do Castelo 20 Lisboa, Portugal (roughly where the entrance is). Miradouro da Graça Have more time for miradouros on your way to Castelo de S. Jorge? Stop at Miradouro Das Portas do sol and Miradouro de Santa Luzia, both have pretty views and Santa Luzia has an added bonus of a church and a pretty blue tiled terrace. See the Travel Honey Map for exact locations. Bistro Gato Pardo Description/tips: A small reasonably priced bistro with a funky/cool vibe and a mix of tasty traditional and more imaginative Portuguese dishes. FINAL THOUGHTS: A tasty option if you re in the Alfama neighborhood. Cost: About euros for a main dish Hours: 12pm-10pm (closed Wed and Thurs) Address/directions: Rua de Sao Vicente 10, Lisbon , Portugal Description/Tips: A beautiful viewpoint that looks out over Lisbon and Castelo de S. Jorge. It is also pretty if you go right before sunrise and sunset, because Castelo de S. Jorge is still lit up. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go on when you go to Castelo de S. Jorge and if you re an early riser, go before for sunrise! Cost: Free Hours: Always open. Approximate time: 15 minutes to take photos up the hill) (it s a steep walk Address/Directions: Calçada da Graça, Lisboa, Portugal. There s no street number, so use your Travel Honey Map. It s about a 10 minute walk from Castelo de S. Jorge. View from Miradouro da Graça 13

14 Day 3 Visit Igreja and Mosteiro de São Vicente de Fora Description/tips: This church and monastery is less visited than the Jeronimo Mosteiro, but it s hardly less impressive and a lot less crowded. It s known for its beautiful white and blue tiles. FINAL THOUGHTS: A must if you enjoy old churches and you re in the Alfama neighborhood. Cost: The church is free but there s a 5 euro fee for the cloister and museum. Hours: 10am-6pm (Tue-Sun) Approximate time: 20 minutes to see the church but you can spend an hour or more if you see the monastery, view and museum. (there are stairs if you want to climb up to the roof and see the view.) Address/directions: Largo de São Vicente, Lisbon, Portugal, there s no street number, so use the Travel Honey Map to locate. It s about a 15 minute walk from Castelo de S. Jorge and a 7 minute walk from Miradouro da Graça. Relax and Memmo Alfama Relax at Memmo Alfama in the afternoon and enjoy the views. Or head back into central Lisbon to get to anything you missed the days before. Make sure you have a drink at the bar before dinner and enjoy the views. Click here for more lodging, food and drink ideas! Caso SÉrio Description/tips: A cozy, hip restaurant with brick walls that was busy even on a Monday night. So make a reservation if you don t want to wait. We sat outside while we waited and were able to order wine and an app. The baked goat cheese and fish stew were amazing. Sunday nights there is usually Fado music. FINAL THOUGHTS: An affordable, tasty option if you want a low-key night out in Alfama. Cost: 61 Euros for apps, 2 entrees and a bottle of wine) Address/Directions: Rua Cruzes da Sé 5, Lisboa, Portugal. A quick walk down the street from Memmo Alfama Want another activity recommendation in the area? National Pantheon of Santa Engracia - A grand church with a impressive dome where many famous Portuguese are buried. It s open 10am-5pm (Tues-Sun) and there s a 4 euro fee. Feira da Ladra market - If you re in the area on a Tuesday or Saturday, check out this large eclectic flea market. Lisbon Cathedral - The oldest church in Lisbon and seat of the Archdiocese of Lisbon. A standard large Roman Catholic church but beautiful none the less and worth a visit if you are in the area. 14

15 Day 4 Day 4 Head to Cascais then north to spectacular Sintra. We picked up our rental car in the morning and after stop in Cascais headed to Sintra, a unique village full of palaces and castles. We left the rental car place at about 10:15am, and we wished we d left a little earlier to give us more time in Sintra. I d recommend trying to leave by 9am. Sintra Tips Sintra is a little north west of Lisbon, so it s good to do on the way to Porto. But it can also be done as a day trip it s an especially good option if you re in Lisbon on Monday when most of Lisbon s monuments are closed and everything is open in Sintra. Renting a car is easy, cheap and gives you flexibility, even if it s for the day. But you can also take the train or Uber there and rely on busses, taxis or tuk tuks to take you to attractions. There are five major stops in Sintra, and we made four of them and chose to skip the Palace of Sintra (note that this is different than the Pena Palace) based on the photos we saw of each. But include the Palace of Sintra if you want to learn more about Portuguese history/culture at the Palace of Sintra. Or if castles and palaces are your thing, consider doing two nights in Sintra, or the second half the next day in Sintra (most attractions don t open until 10am). To do 4 castles is a super long day if you re coming from Lisbon, and you re legs will be exhausted at the end, even if you re in decent shape. So if you re not up for it, check out the photos and offerings of each do your top picks first in case you lose steam (but note that the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace or next to each other and Quinta da Regaleira and Monserrate are very close). I would have ordered my favorites were: 1. Pena Palace, 2. Quinta da Regaleira, 3. Monserrate, 4. Moorish Castle. But my travel companion would have ranged them: 1. Quinta da Regaleira, 2. Moorish Castle, 3. Pena Palace, 4. Monserrate. If you love history, do the Moorish Castle and Pena Palace, you ll learn more. If you want a better quality lunch, stop in Sintra center - although Pena Palace has food options, they aren t great quality. Thoughts on whether to stop in Cascais on the way to Sintra Cascais is west of Lisbon (about a 45 minute drive you drive along the coast) and best known as a beach town that can be crowded in the summer. There were still people walking around in November and it was pretty, but after seeing all the amazing and unique castles and palaces in Sintra, we wish we d gone straight to Sintra (Sintra is about 45 minutes from Cascais and 45 minutes from Lisbon). But if you like cute shops and lazy beach towns, make this stop! 15

16 Day 4 Aguamel Guest House Description/Tips: A cute, stylishly decorated, boutique hotel about a five minute walk into the heart of Sintra (be sure to stop at the cute shops on your way into town!). The only negatives were that the internet didn t work that well in our room and the ceiling is thin, so we could hear the people upstairs. If you have a hard time sleeping, ask for the top floor. Cost: $86 for 323-sq-foot (30-sq-meter) room, balcony with mountain views, 1 King (they call it a full) or 2 Twin Beds (make sure to request the two twin beds in advance). Address/directions: Escadinhas da Fonte da Pipa 3, Sintra, Portugal. If you re driving, do not pull up to the front of the hotel, the road is very narrow and steep and we got stuck behind cars. They direct you to park at Largo Ferreira de Castro, which is small parking area just above the hotel, and you have to go down stairs and look for the Augamel sign on the door on the right after going down the stairs. Memmo Alfama Restaurant Memmo Alfama Description/tips: A wonderful breakfast with a robust selection of cereals, meats, baked goods and fresh juice and the ability to order hot dishes. You can eat breakfast while taking in the beautitful view. FINAL THOUGHTS: Don t miss this tasty breakfast that s included with your stay. Wander Cascais Description/tips: A lazy beach town that was quiet in November, but the shops were all still open and we found some of the best souvenirs and really cute stores on Rua Frederico Arouca. We both bought awesome necklace at Kaymar, a boutique clothes/ jewelry store. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go if shopping and beach towns are up your alley, but if you prefer castles and palaces and only have one day in Sintra, you should skip it. Cost: Free (if you don t buy anything!) Hours: Vary by store Approximate time: We stayed for about 1.45 hours but didn t go into any museums or palaces. Address/directions: Per a friend s recommendation, we drove along the coast instead, and it took a little under an hour. The A5 is the main highway and with no traffic, it can take 30 minutes but there tends to be more traffic and it s not as scenic. If you drive past the town center on Av. Dom Carlos I, there is parking across from the Citadel Palace 16

17 Day 4 Casa Piriquita Description/tips: Grab a quick lunch at this bakery, they have crepes and savory (e.g., a chicken pie) and sweet baked goods. You could even have someone run in and grab something if parking is hard to find. Cost: Baked goods range from about 2-5 euros. Hours: 9:00AM - 8:00PM Address/directions: R. Padarias 1, Sintra, Portugal. In the center of Sintra. Visit Pena Palace Description/tips: Pena Palace is like no other palace we ve ever seen. It s painted in bright multi-color, and it looks like something out a storybook. We paid 3 euro extra to do an audio guide, although we didn t listen to every prompt, it was worth it to be able to get certain rooms and viewpoints explained. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go, it was my favorite activity in Sintra! Cost: 14 Euros for adults (less for a combined ticket and make sure to buy ahead online if it s the busy season). Hours: 9:30am-8:00pm (summer); 10:00am 6:00 (winter). The last admission is 1 hour before the closing time Approximate time: You can can do the castle and walk from the upper parking lot in an hour, but I would try to budget 2 hours if possible, so you re not rushing. (if you park at the top and don t take the bus.) (if you take the lake entrance.) Address/directions: See the Travel Honey Map for a marker of the ticket office. We drove just up the road from the Moorish Castle. It s another minute walk once you park up the hill. You can also pay 3 euro to take a bus, but the walk isn t bad and the bus can get crowded. Visit Castelo de Mouros Description/tips: Castelo de Mouros are the remains of a 9th century castle built by the North African Moors. Most of the outside walls remain intact but much of the draw is the views of Sintra and up to Pena Palace as you walk the castle perimeter. If you plan to see Pena Palace, visit this first, then keep driving past to the Palace. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go, if you don t mind moving your legs and you like history and spectacular views. Cost: 8 Euros and a little less if you buy a joint ticket with Pena Palace. You can buy the ticket ahead of time online, which is a must in the summer to beat the lines. Hours: 9:30am-8:00pm (summer); 10:00am 6:00 (winter). The last admission is 1 hour before the closing time. Approximate time: If you plan to walk the entire perimeter, it will take about hours. (if you walk around the entire perimeter and there are a lot stairs.) Address/directions: See the Travel Honey Map for a marker of the ticket office. It s about a 45 minute drive from Cascais. We parked on the side of the road just below the ticket office on the left of the hill. Castelo de Mouros 17

18 Day 4 Visit Quinta da Regaleira Description/tips: Quinta da Regaleira was built in 1904 as a private estate and includes a large ornate mansion but you should visit in large part to see the almost 10 acres of grounds that are full of crazy mystical and symbolic monuments and structures. If we d have time, I d love to have taken a tour to learn what everything meant. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go, it s unlike anything we d ever seen! Cost: The entrance fee for adults is 6 euros and a guided tours costs an additional 6 euros. Hours: The Quinta da Regaleira is open between 9:30 8pm (Apr 1 Sept 30) and 9:30-6:00pm (Oct 1 Mar 31) with the last entrance an hour before closing. Approximate time:a typical visit lasts 1.5 hours, but we did it in about an hour and 15. to walk the grounds.) (because you have Address/directions: R. Barbosa do Bocage 5, Sintra, Portugal. About a 15 minute drive from Pena Palace and 10 minutes from Monserrate. Visit Palace of Monserrate Description/tips: The Monserrate estate is an exotic villa built in the late 1700s and renovated in the mid-1800s as a summer resort of the Portuguese court. You have to walk about minutes down a hill from the car park, but the beautiful grounds and gardens are worth it to see the interesting architecture and ornate interior. All the furniture is gone and the actual building is small, so it s a short visit. FINAL THOUGHTS: There is less too it than the other Sintra attractions, but if you do Quinta da Regaleira and have 1.5 hours to spare, you should see it! Cost: Adult tickets are 6.50 Euros in the low season and 8 Euros in the high season Hours: Open 10am 6pm (Oct 1 Mar 31); 9:30 8pm (Apr 1 Sept 30) with the last entrance an hour before closing. Approximate time: We did the walk there and viewed the villa in a little under an hour, but could have spent more time looking at the gardens. to walk there.) (because you have Address/directions: See the Travel Honey Map for a marker. It is about a 10 minute drive from Quinta da Regaleira. Quinta da Regaleira 18

19 Day 4 Want more of a hike? If we d had time, I would have liked to have entered from the other side of the castle via the lakes entrance where you walk through lakes and gardens. It s about a mile uphill but you get a good photo op of the entire castle. You can do the Moorish Castle after and if you re tired, take a tuk tuk down (you ll see them lined up). Palace of Monserrate Caldo Entornado Description/tips: A cool, trendy place with great food. We loved the chicken and sea bass and had a great bottle of vinho verde for a whopping $9! FINAL THOUGHTS: Don t miss! Cost: $37 for two entrees and a bottle of vinho verde. Hours: 12:30 p.m. to 3:00 p.m and 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Address/directions: R. Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 19, Sintra, Portugal. About a 7 minute walk from Loja do Vinho, we walked down the stairs rather than taking the road (you may need your phone light as the stairs were a little dark). Still need one more activity for Sintra? Tivoli Palacio de Seteais - On your way back from Quinta da Regaleira or Monserrate, stop at Tivoli Palacio de Seteais, a palace turned hotel to walk the grounds and get photos of the impressive facade (especially if it s at night!). Click here for more food and drink ideas! 19

20 Day 5 Day 5 Drive north to the Douro Valley stopping in Obidos and Nazare. Tips on driving north from Sintra We d researched a number of stops on our drive from Sintra, but we only got to our top two. The medieval walled city of Obidos is a must but Nazare, a beach town known for its enormous waves, was also super cool if you have time to add another stop. We went to Nazare in the off season when there was plenty of parking and restaurant availability in the summer, it gets super busy, and if you weren t going to get out and swim, it may not be worth the stop. Tips on the Douro Valley The Douro Valley is a must if you visit Porto and like wine and spectacular views (the Douro River runs between steep vineyard covered hills). The wineries are pretty spread out and besides a few group tours, there wasn t an obvious way to see the vineyards without driving (the roads are steep and narrow, so we suggest avoiding wine tasting and driving!). Our hotel organized a cab driver to take us to vineyards then dinner and back home and it was 80 Euro for about 6 hours. There are only a few cab drivers though, so if it s the busy season, plan to reserve one ahead of time. We stayed at this phenomenal boutique hotel, which was one of our favorite hotels of the trip, but it didn t have a restaurant, so you just have to drive or walk about 40 minutes up hill and the nearby restaurants are hit or miss (but they are full of locals and an example of traditional Portuguese food). If you drive to Regua about 30 minutes away, there are more options. Many of the wineries are closer to Pinhão, which is farther up the river (but also further from Porto, making the drive back longer when you leave). Quinta do Bosque Description/Tips: A phenomenal boutique hotel with only 4 rooms, each perfectly decorated, and a spectacular view of the Douro Valley. The owners are a couple who were super friendly and helpful. The only negative is that there is not a restaurant on site and the nearby restaurants are hit or miss but the place is such a gem and a good deal that we still highly recommend it. Cost: $107 for a deluxe junior suite with a balcony and extra large double bed. Address/directions: There s no street number so use the Travel Honey map. It s about a 3 hour drive from Nazare and a 1 hour drive from Porto. The last little bit of road to the Quinta is super narrow. 20

21 Day 5 Day 5 Obidos Aguamel Guesthouse It was a decent spread with cereals, meats, cheeses, baked goods and eggs upon request. They say breakfast doesn t begin until 9am, but I went down earlier and they allowed me to grab food early as soon as they set it out. FINAL THOUGHTS: Not super extensive, but still tasty and since it s included, so there s no reason to miss it! Visit Obidos Description/tips: A quaint medieval town that s entirely circled by a stone wall and filled with white painted houses with red roofs and winding streets. You can walk the at the top of the wall around the entire perimeter in about an hour, but we stopped at the other end of the entrance and walked back through the town. The castle itself has been converted into a hotel. Make sure you walk along Rua Direita and go into some of the shops. There s a yummy bakery called Capinha D Obidos at R. Direita 105, where you can get a snack and try ginja, the famous cherry liqueur in chocolate cups (there is another bakery nearby, so don t get confused with this one). We thought it tasted a little like cough syrup but it s a novelty to try. Right near the bakery, is the Igreja de Santa Maria, a 12th Century church. FINAL THOUGHTS: A must stop if you re driving from Sintra to Porto! Cost: Free if you don t buy anything. Hours: The town itself is never closes but the hours of the shops and attractions vary. Approximate time: We spent about 1.5 hours in the town. There isn t a ton to do besides walk through the town, so no need to budget a lot of time to see it. town wall) (to walk around the Address/directions: Obidos, Portugal. About an hour drive from Sintra. 21

22 Day 5 Restaurante Rosa Dos Ventos Description/tips: A whole in the wall restaurant with fresh seafood that they bring to the table for you to see and choose. I m sure they do this a little bit for the tourists, but there were also locals in the restaurant and the food was really good and the wait staff was super friendly. We got a local in season fish grilled whole and they come with boiled potatoes and a salad. Someone sitting next to us ordered a cioppino like dish that looked really good too. It s a little on the pricier side for what we found in Portugal but worth it for the food, service and experience. FINAL THOUGHTS: A great lunch option if they have room! Cost: $33 for a whole grilled fish for 2 and a half bottle of wine Hours: Fri - Wed 12:00 pm - 3:15 pm, 7:00 pm - 9:30 pm Address/directions: R. Gil Vicente 88, Nazare. Nazare is about a 40 minute drive from Obidos. In the off season, there was plenty of park along the ocean and walk up the street to the restaurant. Visit Sao Miguel Arcanjo Fort Description/tips: Nazare looks like a peaceful fishing village turned beach town, but it s known for huge waves and holds the world record for the largest wave ever surfed. The Sao Miguel Arcanjo Fort is on the hill above the village, so it has beautiful views and really a cool exhibit on what makes the waves so big including amazing videos on waves. FINAL THOUGHTS: If you have time, make the stop, it was cool/different. Cost: 1 euro entrance fee to the Fort and exhibit on the wave. Hours: 10am-6pm Approximate time:we spent 30 minutes, but if you re just there for the views, you can do it in Address/directions: Estr. do Farol, Nazaré, Portugal. There s no street number so use the Travel Honey Map. Drive up the hill above Nazare, about a 10 minute drive or if you have time, you can take the funicular up to Miradouro do Suberco and walk to the Sao Miguel Arcanjo Fort. Tasca do Zequinha Description/tips: The décor is basic and the food is traditional Portuguese. The downstairs has a bar and was filled with smoke but upstairs wasn t smoky and had a number of tables packed with locals when we went. The menu and wines were limited and we weren t super impressed with our dishes (Balcahau and a pork dish) except that the roasted potatoes and onions were excellent. But the reviews online are really good, so it could just be our general preference for greens and lighter foods (or we may have caught then on a bad night). FINAL THOUGHTS: Go if you re a meat eater or stick with the grilled fish, just make sure you get the roasted potatoes! Cost: $50 for two entrees and a bottle of wine Hours: 10am 11pm (closed on Sunday) Address/directions: Av. Conselheiro Alpoim 567, Mesao Frio. Only 1.4 miles away, so a short drive. You could walk, but it s a steep hill up! Click here for more lodging, food and drink ideas! 22

23 Day 6 Day 6 Have a lazy morning or try a walk, bike ride or boat ride. Next is lunch, wine tastings and an early dinner at DOC. During the busy season, or if you want to go at specific times or book a tour, you will need to call ahead to book the wineries. Try to get to Quinta do Tedo right before it closes at 7pm to see the sunset. That will get you to DOC at 7:30pm when it opens. After an afternoon of wine tasting, we were ready for an early dinner. Quinta do Bosque We were the only ones staying, but the presentation was phenomenal with a good selection of fresh fruit, cereal, meats and cheeses and homemade baked goods. FINAL THOUGHTS: Don t miss, this was included with the room and one of the best breakfasts we had on the trip. Castas e Pratos Description/tips: A hip, stylish spot in a converted railway building with innovative dishes and a huge selection of wines! FINAL THOUGHTS: I only read about this after we went and had really wished we d gone! Cost: Main dishes around around 20 euros Hours: 10:30am-10:30pm Address/directions: R. José Vasques Osório, Peso da Régua, Portugal. About a 30 minute drive from Mesao Frio and Quinta do Bosque. Need a driver for wine tasting? If you need a driver for wine tasting, call Vitor Benedito at or (he doesn t have a website). He speaks great English and was super friendly and funny. But make sure you book ahead as there are not many drivers in the Douro Valley. It was 80 Euros for and he ll pick you up at your lodging. You can also ask you lodging to book you a driver. Want to take a boat tour? Try Pipadouro and their awesome vintage Rabelo boats. They usually have a 10am tour but call ahead to book. Wine Quinto do Seixo Description/tips: Quinto do Seixo is a vineyard of the well known Sandman wine and port makers. The video on the tour was a little boring and you can skip if you re short on time, but the tasting room and view is spectacular and well worth the visit. They offer whites, reds and ports to sample along with yummy cheeses and cured meats. FINAL THOUGHTS: A can t miss but book a tour if it s the busy season or you want an exact time. Cost: Euro various tasting and tour options (all tastings include a tour). Hours: 10:30am 1pm and 2pm 5:30pm (Feb Nov); 10:30am 6:30pm (Mar Oct), last tour 15 minutes before closing Approximate time: If you do the shortest tour and tasting, you ll be there at least an hour. Address/directions: On N222 about 50 minutes from Quinta do Bosque, but the Google address isn t accurate, so use the Travel Honey map. 23

24 Day 6 Day 6 Wine Quinto do Tedo Description/tips: Quinto do Tedo is a charming winery right on the Douro river. The staff was knowledgeable and gave us a good overview of the different types of ports. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go and try to book their last tasting, which will put you at DOC at 7:30pm. Cost: 6 euros per person for 3 tastings (can do wines or ports) Hours: 10am 7pm Approximate time: The tasting was about 30 minutes total. Address/directions: Just off of N222 about 15 minutes from Quinto do Seixo. The Google address isn t accurate, so use the Travel Honey map. DOC Description/tips: Splurge on this tasty meal and enjoy the stunning terrace views and stylish decor. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go if you can afford it but make sure you make reservations! Cost: About 80 euro for the tasting menu (about 140 euro with wine). Hours: 12:30pm 3:30pm, 7:30pm 11:30pm Address/directions: On N222 about 5 minutes from Quinto do Tedo, but the Google address isn t accurate, so use the Travel Honey map Quinta do Seixo tasting room Click here for more lodging, food and drink ideas! 24

25 Day 7 Day 7 Breakfast in the Douro Valley then drive about hour to Porto to explore. Porto Tips Porto is similar to Lisbon in that it s a hilly city on a river, but it s smaller and more quaint, so you can cover most of the streets in the city center fairly quickly. For more on the differences between Porto and Lisbon, click here. You ll want to head over the river to get views back to Porto. You can either walk on the lower bridge or upper bridge and they both offer different views. If you have time, try doing both take the upper bridge on the first day and do the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar and save the lower bridge for the next day when you do dinner or port tasting across the river. If you re there at Christmas, there are awesome Christmas markets everywhere. Casa dos Loios Description/tips: We stayed in an amazing room at Casa dos Loios for only $107, which was right in the center of Porto. There are 12 rooms in a house built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The ceilings to our room were high, the interior was beautifully ornate, and we had two en suite bathrooms and two small balconies (although the windows didn t open). FINAL THOUGHTS: Don t miss and try to get the deluxe family room. Address/directions: Rua das Flores 245 A, Porto, Portugal. There s a parking garage (Cardosas Parking, R. Trindade Coelho 16, Porto, Portugal) around the corner from the hotel and it s best to go directly there, because the street with the hotel doesn t allow cars. You exchange the ticket and $20/day for a voucher at the hotel. Quinta do Bosque Visit Clérigos Tower Description/tips: This tower offering panoramic views is a great way to get your bearings on the city. Be prepared to climb the 225 stairs up a narrow staircase. It can be really busy in the summer and on weekends, especially at dusk. FINAL THOUGHTS: A great view but go at night if you want to skip the lines. Cost: 4 Euros for the tower and museum (9am-7pm) and 5 euros for tower (7pm-11pm) Hours: Tower and museum (9am-7pm) and tower (7pm-11pm) Approximate time: You ll be in the tower for less than 15 minutes but the line could take awhile. stairs.) (to make it up the Address/directions: R. de São Filipe de Nery, Porto, Portugal. Clerigos Tower is a 3 minute walk from Casa dos Lóios. See above for details. 25

26 Day 7 Day 7 Adega São Nicolau Porto Description/tips: A cozy restaurant with a view of the river on its terrace. High quality, reasonably priced traditional dishes. Popular with both tourists and locals, so book ahead if you want a seat (there aren t reservations for outside). FINAL THOUGHTS: Go but book ahead! Cost: Most main dishes were euros Hours: 12:00PM - 11:00PM (Closed Sundays) Address/directions: Rua S. Nicolau nº 1, Porto, Portugal Ride the Funicular Description/tips: A window enclosed lift that is a quick, fun way to save your legs from walking the stairs from the river to Porto center. FINAL THOUGHTS: Take it if you want to save your legs or take a short ride. Cost: 2.50 euros Hours: Nov to Apr (8am - 8pm); May, June, September and October (Sun-Wed 8am - 10pm; Thur-Sat 8am - 8pm-12am); August (8am-12am) Approximate time: They come every 10 minutes and it s a few minute ride. Address/Directions: R. da Ribeira Negra 314, Porto, Portugal. Walk along the riverfront on Cais da Ribeira until you get to the bridge, the ticket office for the funicular will be to your left. Visit Porto Cathedral Description/tips: A grand ornate cathedral with origins from the 12th century and a great view of Porto. FINAL THOUGHTS: At least go the free church and take in the views of Porto. Cost: The church is free but 3 euros to visit the cloisters and museum. Hours: 9 a.m. -12:30 p.m.; 2:30-7 p.m. (Apr - Oct) and 2:30-6 p.m. (Apr - Oct). Approximate time: You can see the church in 20 minutes or spend longer if you buy a ticket to the cloisters Address/directions: Terreiro da Sé, Porto, Portugal. If you re coming from the river, you can walk up the stairs or take the funicular. 26

27 Day 7 Visit Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Description/tips: A monastery and church and a beautiful view that overlooks the city. The view is free but you have to pay a small fee to go inside. Aim to be here at sunset or you ll still get a good view if you walk down to below the Monastery at the start of the bridge. There s also a little café there where you can try to stake out a spot to watch the sunset if the weather is bad (a lot of people will probably have the same idea!). FINAL THOUGHTS: Go at least to the viewpoint and if you have time and there s a tour, take that for an even better view. Cost: The view is free, but it s 1 Euro to enter the monastery and 3 euro for the tour that includes the church and a visit to the roof. Hours: Apr-Oct (10:00am to 6:30pm) (Nov- Mar) 10:00am to 5:30pm) Approximate time: About 20 minutes to take photos and wander the monastery, longer for the tour. (if you walk across the bridge and up the hill) Address/directions: Largo de Aviz - Santa Marinha, Vila Nova de Gaia, Norte, , Porto, Portugal. Head over the the Ponte Luis 1 Bridge at the top level and stay on the street until it loops back up the road to the Monastery. Tapabento Description/Tips: A tapas restaurant offering excellent tapas that have a modern take on Portuguese flavors and traditional dishes. All of the dishes were excellent but they were bigger than the tapas than we d typically find in the U.S. It s very popular with the locals too, so it s best to make a reservation ahead of time. FINAL THOUGHTS: We d definitely go back! Cost: $$$ ($90 for 2 people, 7 dishes and a bottle of wine) Hours: Wed-Thurs, Sun (12:00 pm - 12:00 am); Fri - Sat (2:00 pm - 1:00 am), Tues (7pm-12am), Closed Mondays Address: Rua da Madeira, nº 222, Porto, Portugal. Right in the heart of Porto on the street bordering the train station. View from Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar Click here for other tasty food recommendations and pre and post dinner drink ideas. 27

28 Day 8 Day 8 Wander Porto and do a port tasting on your last day. In the morning, wander the streets. We ve listed some of our favorite highlights to stop at on your way. In the afternoon, head over to Ribeira de Gaia (across the river from Porto) for a tour of one the Port houses. You can either try to do the last tour and stay over for dinner or you could do an earlier tour and come back for a little siesta then head back out for a later dinner. The second option is best if you want to try and see Porto s nightlife, which starts late. Casa dos Loios They offer a variety of choices, which included fried French toast (famous in Porto), fresh fruit, cereal, meats and cheeses and baked goods. It s included with your stay at Casa dos Loios. If it s nice, you can sit outside in the courtyard. Visit Church of Saint Ildefonso Description/tips: An 18th century baroquestyle church with a blue tiled façade. We didn t go inside because the hours are odd, but it the photos look pretty. FINAL THOUGHTS: If you re in the area, at least walk by it to view the beautiful exterior tiling. Cost: FREE Hours: They re different than what s listed, so check the doors when you go, but you can always view it from the outside. Approximate time: If you don t go in, 10 minutes is plenty. Address/directions: The address on Google isn t accurate so use the Travel Honey Map. It s right near the train station. Description/tips: A pretty square named after Italian royalty who took refuge in a manor on the square. The palm trees look pretty against the old buildings behind the statute. A great photo op. FINAL THOUGHTS: Worth walking through if you re nearby. Cost: Free Visit Praca de Carlos Alberto Hours: Always open. Approximate time: 10 minutes to take photos Address/directions: Rather the address on Google isn t accurate so use the Travel Honey Map. Want to do a little shopping? Head to Rua da Cedofeita, which is steps from Praca de Carlos Alberto and Igreja do Carmo. It has a variety of shops, selling gifts, but also traditional shoe shops and homeware in the traditional style. Stop by Arte aos Molhos - a great place to find local, artsy gifts. Rua da Ponte Nova, 64 porto Livraria Lello & Irmão - A distinct bookstore that is thought to be the inspiration for J.K. Rowling s Harry Potter. It s beautiful once inside, but if you re not obsessed with Harry Potter, it might not be worth the small fee and often long lines. 28

29 Day 8 Description/tips: Carmo Church is actually two churches connected by a one meter wide house. It s an ornate Baroque church that has a beautiful blue tiled facade. FINAL THOUGHTS: Worth at least stopping by and going in if you like churches. Cost: Free Visit Igreja do Carmo Hours: Mon-Fri (7:15am - 7pm); Sat-Sun (9am to 6:45pm) Approximate time: 10 minutes to take photos outside another 20 minutes if you go inside. Address/directions: Praca de Gomes Teixeira 10, Porto, Portugal. A couple minute walk from Praca de Carlos Alberto. View Miradouro da Vitoria Description/tips: The site itself is nondescript but it has beautiful vista overlooking Porto, which beautiful both during the day and at night. There s another pretty vista if you continue down Rua da Vitoria, which turns into R. das Virtudes and you walk along the stone wall and look to your left down the River. FINAL THOUGHTS: Don t miss this if you love a good view. Cost: Free Hours: Always open. Approximate time: 15 minutes steep hill up there.) (because it s a Address/directions: R. de São Bento da Vitória 11, Porto, Portugal. If you re coming from Church Carmo, walk through Jardim da Cordoaria View from Miradouro da Vitoria 29

30 Day 8 Restaurante DOP Description/tips: One of the most highly rated and expensive restaurants in Porto, DOP has a reasonably priced set lunch menu for only 20 euros. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go for lunch and enjoy their stylish decor, great service and inventive menu at an affordable price. Cost: 20 euro for a 3 course tasting menu without wine. Hours: Tues - Sat (12:30 pm - 3:30 pm; 7:30 pm - 11:00 pm), Mon (7:30 pm - 11:00 pm), Closed Sundays Address/directions: Largo Sao Domingos 18, 4050 Porto, Portugal. Port Graham s Port Lodge Description/tips: Graham s Port Lodge is a working cellar build in the late 1890s but newly renovated. Tours of the cellar must be booked in advance by phone or online. The tasting room has great views looking back at Porto. If you have dinner on this side of the river, you could opt to just stay over there. FINAL THOUGHTS: If you want to do a port tasting, come here. Cost: Tours (with a tasting) start at 12 euro Hours: 9:30am 6:00pm (Apr Oct); 9:30am - 5:30pm (Nov Mar), last visit 30 minutes before closing. Approximate time: Tour was about 45 minutes there.) (including the walk Address/directions: Rua Rei Ramiro, Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal. Head towards the river, walk across the lower level of the Ponte Luis 1 bridge then take a left after the bridge. Don t want to do a full tasting or would rather siesta after lunch and have a pre-dinner drink? See here for pre and post dinner drink recommendations. De Castro Gaia Description/tips: A tasty and affordable menu with great views of Porto. If the terrace is open, try to have a drink there before. Be sure to make reservations if it s the busy season or a weekend. FINAL THOUGHTS: Go if you value nice views, and a tasty affordable meal. Cost: Main dishes are euros Hours: Tues - Thurs (12:30 to 15:00 and 19:30 to 23:00); Friday to Saturday - 12:30 to 15:00, 19:30 23:30; Sunday - 12:30 to 15:00; Closed - Mondays Address/directions: Largo Miguel Bombarda 23, Vila Nova de Gaia, Portugal. Take a right after crossing the Dom Luis I Bridge on the lower level and it s a few minutes walk in the Espaco Porto Cruz building. 30

31 Insider Tips Pre-Travel Advice Things to Book/do Ahead Make a rental car reservation that you can cancel for free as soon as you know your dates because the price went up closer to the trip (and you can always book the lower rate if rates go down). If you plan to take the tram Belem and see those sites, I recommend buying the Lisbon Card. You can purchase it online ahead of time, or you can just buy at the Lisbon airport after you clear customs. It was helpful to fly into Lisbon and out of Porto, that way you didn t have to backtrack Download the Uber app if you don t have it it s very cheap and reliable in Lisbon and Porto. Even during the shoulder season, restaurants were busy in Lisbon and Porto, especially on the weekend, so book ahead if you have somewhere specific you want to eat. Book your Douro reservations as soon as you have your date, because a lot of the lodging were small boutique hotels that book up. What to Pack We had great weather, so I wish I d brought more warm weather clothes. Small bottles of shampoo, conditioner and lotion. None of the hotels we stayed at had conditioner, only a few had lotion and some had a combination bath gel/shampoo. Comfortable walking shoes, Porto and Lisbon have steep hills with tiles streets and sidewalks so heels are tough unless they re chunky. Bathing suit - some hotels have heated pools and Jacuzzis Sunglasses It did get chilly at night, so make sure you have layers and a medium weight jacket if you go in the late fall, early winter. European adapter (I like to bring two) Car charger adapter - (rental cars don t always have a USB plug) Extra battery for iphone - I find that my phone dies quickly when I m taking photos and constantly using the map. Obidos 31

32 Insider Tips Arrival Tips Lisbon is airport is nice and has free wifi. I bought a 24 hour Lisboa Card (see above), which I bought when I came out of customs. There was no line. I wish I d bought a SIM card at the airport, because I needed to call the hotel on my way, and it would have been easier to find the hotel if I had Google Maps. Although even if you don t have service, Google maps will still show your live location on a map so pre-download the address ahead of time. I took the Aerobus, because it was only 2 euro with the Lisboa Card. I had to wait 10 minutes for it to leave, but it dropped me in the city center after only a couple other stops. The walk to my hotel in Barria Alta was short, but straight up a hill, so I then had to take a tram. Unless you know that your hotel is directly next to an Aerobus stop, I would recommend taking the taxi. If you do take the Aerobus, you need to have cash. Taxi There are reports of people getting ripped off at a taxi at from the airport, so it might be better to book a car with your hotel (Residentas Atalaia charged 25 Euros for up to 3 people. If you hail a cab, don t pay more than 20 euros and agree to a price ahead of time and ask for a receipt. They also may not take credit card, so you need Euros. Uber There s been back and forth about whether they are allowed at the airport. It s worth a try when you arrive, because you won t need cash, and they ll likely be cheaper. They may just tell you where they need to pick you up. Rental Car TIps: We rented a car in Lisbon to drive to Porto. You can take a train, but we wanted to meander north at our own pace and make stops at various towns. Just be prepared for the narrow roads in Sintra and the Douro Valley. We rented through SIXT and it was super easy to rent and super cheap; you weren t charged extra to return the car in Porto, so we recommend flying into Lisbon and out of Porto, it saves you the drive back. We took at 5 euro Uber to the north of Lisbon center to pick up the car. Getting out of Lisbon was very easy and driving was generally painless except that the exits were confusing, so we sometimes had to backtrack. You ll get a standard unless you request otherwise (and usually pay extra). Sixt gave us free GPS but Google maps sometimes worked better. The exits are a little confusing, so build in a little time if you get off the wrong exit There are lot of tolls in Portugal, so consider splurging for the transponder we ended up going through the wrong gate, and I was later charged by the rental company a higher price for the toll. 32

33 Insider Tips Advice Once You re There Spending Tips: Portugal is on the Euro. Credit cards were generally accepted, but there was usually a minimum and some restaurants didn t take them. Tips usually had to be given in cash, even if you paid by credit card. Like most European countries, tipping is 5-10% (10% when there s heavier service involved). Save money by taking an Uber rather than a cab or tuk tuk. Getting Around: Ubers are very cheap and reliable. Lisbon and Porto also had tuktuks, which we took once for the experience, but it was more expensive than an Uber (it was $10 for a tuktuk from Barria Alto to Alfama). The trams in Lisbon are also great, especially if you don t want to walk up the steep hills (just be prepared to wait a bit). The tram to Belem was super convenient too. Remember to press the button to open doors on the tram. We found it easier to just to walk around Porto, it s not that big. You can always take the funicular if you re down by the water and don t want to walk up the hill. And there are also trams in Porto, which seemed popular if you didn t want to walk. We did take an Uber in Porto at around 4pm to the north part of the city and hit traffic but it s cheap and convenient if you re not going at peak times. Using Your Cell Phone in Portugal Get a SIM card, it s super easy and cheap and the service is good. Vodafone has a holiday SIM with 5GB of data, 500 min. local calls/texts and 30 min. calls/texts to the U.S., Canada, Australia, Brazil and New Zealand. There s also a 1GB option for 10 euros that only includes local calls/texts. They both last for 30 days. There s a Vodafone store at the Lisbon airport and mall near the Baixa-Chiado subway stop. For more tips on using your cell phone abroad, including how much data you ll use and the best calling apps, click here.[kw to add] Should you buy a Lisbon Card? You can save money with the Lisbon Card. If you re planning to go to the Jerónimos Monastery, the Belem Tower and the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and take the tram there and back, it s about break-even to buy the 24 hour card for 19 euros. But if you plan to visit any other sites on the list or take any other public transportation, you save money. Plus, you don t have to buy a separate metro ticket and the lines are shorter. After the first day, I walked everywhere and didn t see any other sites on the list, so it wasn t worth buying the 48 hour card. You ll see a counter in the airport to buy the card when you exit baggage claim. Also grab a helpful map! 33

34 Insider Tips What Do I Say? Because it s a difficult language, everyone appreciated when we tried to say a few words in Portuguese (and didn t try to speak Spanish, which looks similar but is very different!). Here are a few to try: You say hello differently depending on the time of day: Good morning -> Boa dia Good Afternoon -> Boa tarde (silent e) Good Evening/Good Night -> Boa noite (sounds like noyt) Goodbye -> Tchau (like ciao in Italian) Please -> Por favor Excuse me/sorry -> Desculpe (sounds like deshcoupe) Bathroom -> Baneiro (ban-eyroo) How much is this? -> Quanto costa? To compliment a meal -> Muito bom or delicioso Cheers -> Saúde (Saw-OO-de) The bill, please -> A conta, por favor Viewpoint from Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara Eating and Drinking Tips Meals are a lot cheaper than in the U.S., we had good bottles of wine for 8 A lot of places would not serve tap water and would charge for bottled water If you like tuna very rare like me (with just the very outside edge cooked), I d recommend showing a photo of how you want it cooked and photo of it more cooked. I don t think they see a lot of those orders, and the closest I got was about half the tuna cooked. Like in most European countries, you re typically served free snacks with your drinks (nuts, chips, etc.) Not as many places to get take away coffee The breakfasts at the hotels usually didn t start until 8:30am or 9am. Meals are also later, so if you want to eat with the locals, aim for at least 9pm The locals go out late, so be prepared to stay up if you want to see the scene at night What to Feast On? Seafood generally, it s everywhere and amazing, but specifically: Octopus, Bacalao (salted cod), and limpets. Also, always ask what the fish of the day is, because it will be fresh. Steak Amazing baked goods, try as many as you can, especially the Pastéis De Nata in Lisbon In Porto, try the fried French toast Portuguese wine, it s tasty and very affordable (especially the Vinho Verde!) Ginginha - A sour cherry liquor that usually comes served in a chocolate cup (I ll admit, I didn t like it, but it s still fun to try) Port from the Douro Valley 34

35 Insider Tips Departure Tips View from Belém Tower We drove from Porto and dropped off our rental car. The signs for the airport are well marked. We had to drop the car and take a short shuttle to the airport, which came quickly. Cabs are also easy and should cost between 20 and 30 Euros. If you have an early flight, get your hotel to book one ahead of time. You could also try an Uber. One More Day If you had one more day, where would you spend the extra day? If you re into palaces and castles, take two days to see Sintra, but if you want to add a day of relaxation, do another day in the Douro Valley. One Less Day If you had one less day, which day would you leave out? I would have spent one less day in Lisbon. 35

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