Transcription

1 Using Your Bike Friday : SatRDay Queen Voice of Bike Friday, Gaylynn HanavanCoon, rides the SatRDay in the Cinderella Century, Visit her Green Gear Cycling, Inc W 11th Ave. Eugene, OR USA & Canada Int l Fax info@bikefriday.com November 2006

2 Congratulations! You have just purchased the finest travel bicycle available today. Your bike has been carefully designed and constructed for your personal travel needs. All of our bikes are manufactured in our Eugene, Oregon factory by real cyclists who care about our products and our customers. Please take your time reviewing this manual and, if possible, watch the movie clips at before you assemble your new Bike Friday travel bicycle. You will find your new bicycle fun and reliable anywhere you go! If You Need Help... If you need technical assistance with any Green Gear Cycling product, or are unclear on the proper operation of your Bike Friday travel bicycle, please call us and a Service Technician will help you get back on the road. Our toll-free number in the US and Canada is , international is Normal business hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays, Pacific Standard Time. You can also service questions to service@bikefriday.com. Because we understand the needs of world travelers, we offer 24-hour technical support in emergencies. If necessary, please call our regular number and our answering service can forward you to a Service Technician on call. Extra Accessories We also sell an extensive (and growing!) line of bicycle and travel accessories. Whether you are riding the local back roads or venturing into foreign lands, we have the gear you need. Call us for info on spare tires & tubes, replacement parts, fenders, racks, bags, or other items to complete your Travel System. More Information To check out our products, find other useful information, discover Bike Friday events and Yak with other Bike Friday owners on the bulletin board, go to our main web site at Or just call us at Welcome to the fold, from the Bike Friday Travel Team Visit for more tips This edition last updated Nov 10, 2006 by Lynette Chiang

3 Table of Contents A Word on Safety 5 Anatomy of a SatRDay (Touring) 6 Getting Started 7 Assembly: Unpacking 8 Unfold Frame 10 Insert wheels 11 Unfold boom 12 Install Cranks 13 Install Chain/Stem 15 Install Bars 16 Install Seat 17 Front Wheel 19 Install Pedals 21 Packing the SatRDay: Materials 22 Seat 24 Handlebars 26 Remove Stem/Crank 27 Remove Pedals/Crank 28 Remove left crank 29 Remove right crank 30 Front wheel 31 Important protection 32 Folding the boom 33 Folding the frame 34 Place bike in suitcase 35 Pack rear wheel 36 Crush protector 38 Fitting it all in 39 Quick Folding the SatRDay 40 Quick Fold/TravelBag 47 Getting a Good Sit 48 Eccentric 50 Accessories: TravelTrailer 51 Folding Rear Rack 55 Fenders 57 Using a Quick Release 58 About V-brakes (Tour model) 60 About 2006 Shimano Cranks 62 DualDrive Hub

4 Table of Contents cont d Trouble Shooting 68 Bike Friday Service 69 Travel Tips 70 Warranty Information 71 Notes

5 A Word on Safety Bicycles are a lot of fun, but they can also hurt if you don t ride carefully. So please always ride safe! Always wear a helmet. Follow the rules of the road, and be courteous. (We all need to represent the best of cycling to the world.) Use front and rear lights after dark. Dress appropriately for the weather and the season. Always carry a spare tube, patch kit, pump and a tool kit. Keep your bicycle in good shape. Check your tire pressure before every ride. Make sure all quick releases are secure! Have your bicycle routinely serviced for trouble-free travels. Your Tools Your SatRDay comes with a combination 5/6mm S- wrench (pictured) stored in a rubber sleeve holding the cables together. This wrench should get your new bike on the road (along with your own pedal wrench). Keep it in the cable sleeve so that you always have it handy. All bikes ordered with a TravelCase suitcase also come with a tool pouch. In the tool pouch you will find some cotton gloves to keep your hands clean, a folding tool set, a combination headset and pedal/axle nut wrench (15mm), and a 4mm ball-end driver. The ball-end driver is perfect for mounting bottle cages, racks, and other accessories. If we needed to remove your right crank arm in order to pack your bike, we also included a long handled 8mm Allen wrench. We also sell more extensive tool kits for home repair work. We encourage you to learn how to work on your own bike. If you are not familiar with bicycle maintenance, consider taking a local class. It will improve your confidence and self-sufficiency as you venture across the globe

6 Anatomy of a SatRDay (Touring) Seat Support Seat Adjustment Elastomer suspension Seat Support Quick Release Rear brake Cassette (Cogs) Rear Derailleur Shifters Seat Chain Stays Handlebars Stem Riser Stem Collar Head Set Seat Rail Monotube Front Brake Idler Pulley Chain Catch Brake Levers Stem hinge and quick release Head Tube Rim Pedal Front Derailleur Crank Arm Bottom Bracket Chain Rings Boom Eccentric (touring model only) Fork Front hub

7 Getting Started Where to Begin Opening your case for the first time may present an intimidating sight, particularly if you ordered many extra travel accessories with your Bike Friday travel bicycle. Don t worry, we work hard to keep our products simple, and with a little practice you will find that using your new bicycle will become second nature to you. We recommend finding a quiet area with access to the video, these instructions, and some room to spread out. This manual will address the fundamentals: packing and assembly tips and techniques that are common to all of our travel bikes. However, because this bike has been custom made for you, you may discover that your bike was packed at the factory slightly different than the one in this manual. Wherever possible, we mark any packing materials unique to your bike. Furthermore, you do not have to repack your bike in exactly the same fashion. You may find a better way of stowing your accessories, and we encourage you to experiment. If you discover a particularly good way of doing things, let us know. Some of our best ideas have come from members of the Bike Friday family. If you encounter difficulties assembling your SatRDay and the instructions do not help, call us. Our goal is to get you quickly on the road so that you can enjoy your Bike Friday SatRDay. Illustrated Accessories In order to illustrate the assembly and use of all of our travel accessories, the bike on the following pages has nearly everything we could think of for a fully loaded tour. Your own bike may have only a few or none of these accessories. If you ever choose to purchase some of these accessories, this manual should help you pack the extra items. The SatRDay does not normally come with pedals, unless you specifically ordered them from us. Tip: remember with all threaded bolts and screws EXCEPT the left pedal, turn right (clockwise) to make tight, left to make loose. The left pedal works in the opposite manner. Be careful not to strip the threads. The assembly and packing steps are generally the same across all SatRDay configurations. Because of component differences, wrench sizes and the number of bolts per clamp may vary from the illustrations

8 Assembly: Unpacking 1. Open The TravelCase Start by removing some of the obviously loose items from the case including water bottles, accessible colored felt bags, trailer wheels, the plastic pouch with extra materials, and so on. Put any accessories such as racks and trailers out of the way for now. The lid is Fig. 1 The fully equipped travel bicycle a good place to hold components and prevent parts being lost. Assembly on grass is not recommended! 2. Crush Protector The crush protector is a PVC dowel with a couple of flat caps on the ends. This piece is a critical bit of packing material: it spans the case so that luggage dropped on top of your bike is supported by the dowel and not your bike. The caps are lightly pressed Fig. 2 Remove crush protector on just pull the top cap off. Don t worry if the dowel comes out and the bottom cap is still in the case. 3. The Goodie Bag There might be a better name for this pouch, but we ve always called it the Goodie Bag. This bag holds a variety of miscellaneous loose items for your new bike. This may include the technical literature that came with your Fig. 3 The goodie bag components, spare spokes, some labels and decals, and always a surprise! The component literature is not required reading, but we supply it for those who are technically inclined

9 Assembly: Unpacking 4. Remove Tool Pouch The tool pouch that comes with the case is a light blue colored felt bag with a cord around it. Inside you should find a folding tool set with all of the Allen wrenches and screwdrivers you will need to assemble your bike, a pair of cotton gloves to keep your Fig. 4 The tool pouch. hands clean, and a 4mm ball-end driver. Note: You will also find a combination 5/6mm S-wrench attached to your water bottle cage for quick road-side adjustments. 5. Remove Rear Wheel With the crush protector removed, remove the rear wheel. Locate the rear wheel quick release, usually in the tool pouch, and insert, remembering that the narrow ends of the two springs face toward the hub. Fig. 5 Remove front wheel and set up See page 58 Using a Quick Release. 6. Remove handlebars The handlebars will be in the left side of the case. Pull them out, and let them drape by the attached cables over the left side of the case. Fig. 6 Remove front wheel and bars

10 Assembly: Unfold Frame 7. Remove Bike Frame Lift the frame out of the suitcase. Note items stashed neatly in lid. Fig. 7 Remove bike frame. 8. Unfold rear end As you unfold the rear end of your bike, make sure cables are not caught on the hinges. Fig. 8 Unfold rear end. 9. Unfold rear end Swing rear end of the bike until the two Suspension Elastomers are seated against the frame. Remove protective packing material. Fig. 9 Unfold rear end

11 Assembly: Insert wheels 10. Remove rubber band You will find it easier to insert the rear wheel if you first remove the rubber band holding the chain to to the Idler Pulley. Fig. 10 Remove rubber band. 11. Insert rear wheel If you have a DualDrive hub, insert the shift pin and attach the click box. See page 62 About the Dual Drive for more information. Insert rear wheel onto the chainstays. Pull the rear derailleur down and loop the chain onto the cassette. Fig. 11 Insert rear wheel. 12. Close rear brake See page 60 About V-Brakes for tips on closing V-brakes (SatRDay tour model). Fig. 12 Close rear brake

12 Assembly: Unfold boom 13. Unfold boom Extend the boom fully and remove protective packing material. The front wheel is installed in a later step, allowing the front fork to act as a stand while assembling the SatRDay. Fig. 13 Unfold boom. TOURING MODEL ONLY: You will have an eccentric adjustment ring below the boom and in front of the forls. This ring adjusts the rise of your boom to an angle most comfortable to you. Once set, there is no need to re-adjust it unless you desire a different rise. Please see page 50 Getting a Good Sit - Eccentric 14. Check chain path Make sure the chain is not kinked and runs as follows: From the crank, the UPPER chain passes UNDER the idler pulley... Fig. 14 Check chain path 15. Check chain path... where it sits between the teeth of the small, inner idler pulley cog, and a braze-on pin to keep it in place. Fig. 15 Upper chain sits on inside teeth

13 Assembly: Install Cranks 16. Check chain path cont d From the idler pulley, the chain travels back to the rear cassette, through the rear derailleur and back to the idler pulley where it sits on the outer groove as shown. Fig. 16 Upper chain sits on inside teeth. 17. Install right crank arm Remove the crank from the blue bag. The following steps refer to the newer 2006 Shimano/FSA cranks. See page 62 About 2006 Shimano Cranks to see if this relates to your model. All other cranks require simply tightening with a 8mm crank wrench supplied. Unscrew the little black cap and remove the dustcap ring. 18. Install crank Slide the crank spindle through the hole on the right side of the bike until it bottoms out. Slide the dustcap back onto the spindle on the left side of the bike. Fig. 17 Remove cap and ring. Fig. 18 Insert crank, replace dustcover

14 Assembly: Install Cranks cont d 19. Install the crank Remove left crank from felt bag. Install it on left side ensuring that it is 180 degrees opposed to the right crank. Fig. 19 Install left crank 20. Install the crank Replace black screw cap and finger tighten slightly. Locate the special circular tightening tool, applicable only to 2006 Shimano/FSA cranks (see page 62 About 2006 Shimano Cranks ) and screw cap down. The tool is designed to prevent overtorquing of this cap. Fig. 20 Replace cap and screw it down. 21. Install crank Using the 6mm Allen wrench from your multitool, to initially tighten the crank Allen most of the way. Remember to do both sides evenly! For the 2006 Shimano/FSA cranks only: Fig. 21 Tighten crank allen bolts Finish tightening ot the prescribed torque with the supplied torque wrench (see page 62 About 2006 Shimano Cranks ). Do not over torque!

15 Assembly: Install Chain/Stem 22. Install chain Pull the chain (spring loaded by the rear derailleur) over the smallest chain ring. Fig. 22 Install chain. 23. Release chain catch Unhook the chain from the chain catch and swing the catch out of the way. It is spring loaded and will stay neatly against the frame. Recheck chain path through the rear derailleur mechanism to make sure it is in alignment all the way through. Fig. 23 Release chain catch. 24. Install stem Start by removing the headset protector tube and safety plug from the head tube as shown. Fig. 24 Remove safety plug and protector tube

16 Assembly: Install Bars 25. Insert stem Remove the stem from red felt bag and pop it into the head tube. Make sure cables are routed behind the stem before insertion. Fig. 25 Insert stem. 26. Tighten stem Turn the fork to the left until the fork tab hits the stop. Align the hinge to point directly to the right. Now turn the fork back to facing forward (brakes are on the back of the fork) and line up the handlebars with the fork Fig. 26 Tighten stem bolt. using the upper clamp. With the fork pointing forward, the hinge should be set to fold down to about the 8:00 position when viewed from above. Tighten the stem bolt with your multi tool. Tight! 27. Install handlebars Remove the bars from felt bags and slip into their respective slots on the stem. Fig. 27 Install handlebars

17 Assembly: Install Seat 28. Tighten handlebars Make sure bars are pushed in as far as the blue rings will allow. Tighten BOTH top clamp bolts as shown. Fig. 28 Install handlebars. 29. Close stem quick release Close stem quick release lever. Not that the lever can be used to keep your sleeve of cables neatly out of harm s way. Fig. 29 Close stem quick release. 30. Install seat Take the seat out of the large blue felt bag and unfold so it looks like this. Fig. 30 Remove seat

18 Assembly: Install Seat 31. Install seat Mount seat support bar on rear bracket just behind your nameplate. Don t tighten just yet. Fig. 31 Mount seat support. 32. Install seat Mount front of seat on seat rail. Fig. 32 Mount front of seat. 33. Install seat Mount front of seat on seat rail, sliding it all the way back, and lock down the quick release. Fig. 33 Slide seat onto seat rail

19 Assembly: Front Wheel 34. Lock down seat support quick release. Double check that the seat support quick release behind is secure. Fig. 34 Tighten seat support quick release. 35. Install front wheel Remove the fork spreader tube from the fork. Be careful not to lose the two small springs that accompany your front wheel quick release skewer. Fig. 35 Remove fork spreader. 36. Install front wheel Insert skewer in front wheel making sure: a) the tire tread turns in the correct direction if applicable (usually indicated by an arrow on the sidewall); b) the quick release lever will be on the left side of the bike; c) the tapered ends of the springs Fig. 36 Install front wheel quick release. face towards the hub and d) if you have a computer magnet installed on the spokes, make sure it will end up facing the sensor mounted on the fork

20 Assembly: Front Wheel 37. Install front wheel cont d Make certain the wheel is fully seated in the fork dropouts, and securely close the quick release as illustrated on page 58 Using a Quick Release. If you have a side-pull brake, close the small lever on the brake capiter at this point. Fig. 37 Install front wheel. 38. Close brake Close front wheel brake. If it s hard to close, use barrel adjuster hear handlebar to adjust length of brake cable for more slack. 39. Install seat cushion Place seat cushion over the velcro tabs. Fig. 38 Close front brake. See page 60 About V-Brakes for more info. Fig. 38a Adjust brake cable length. Fig. 39 Install seat cushion

21 Assembly: Install Pedals 40. Thread In Pedals Using your fingers, start the pedal threads into the proper crank arm (pedals are marked L and R). Be careful not to cross-thread the pedals! Once started, you may use a wrench to finish threading them in, and then tighten securely. Fig. 40 Tighten pedals (tighten in Tip: Remember to tighten opposite direction for left pedal). your pedals by turning both toward the front of the bike. 41. Double-Check This! At this point your bike should be ready to ride. See page 48 Getting a Good Sit. However, before you ride away, check: Are the handlebars tight? How about the stem and pedals? Are the quick releases all secure? (see page 58 Using a Quick Release ). Tighten Fig. 41. Merle sitting pretty... anything that seems loose, especially the bolts on the stem. Although we always inflate the tires at the factory, check your tire pressure for proper inflation. Under-inflated tires not only wear faster and are more prone to flats, but they also add drag. Be sure to have at least the 5/6mm S- wrench on hand for quick road-side adjustments. If you have the folding tool, take it with you. You will probably want to stop and adjust saddle height and perhaps a few other items during your first ride or two. Finally, install racks and other accessories. TIP! Keep a light film of grease on any intersecting bike parts to help to prevent corrosion, facilitate disassembly, and eliminate annoying noises. Areas include seat posts, saddle rails, handlebars, stems, seat masts and frame fork tips. Do this a couple of times per year. Wipe off any excess grease. Lightly grease all bolt threads as you repair or upgrade components. Lubricating bolts will allow you to adequately tighten the fasteners and keep them from seizing in the future

22 Packing the SatRDay: Materials Packing Materials Because each bike is custom made and outfitted, there is some variation in the selection of packing materials. Common pieces for the SatRDay include: Boom cover (blue vinyl sleeve). Bottom braket shell cover (red and yellow felt bag). Crankarm cover (blue vinyl sleeve for left, felt bag for chainring assembly). Chainstay cover (clear thick vinyl tube). Steerer tube support (short plastic tube). Handlebar covers (red and yellow felt bags). Fork spreader (white plastic tube). Crush protector (white plastic tube with two circular end caps). Your own bike may have other pieces. These will be labeled according to where they go. Generally, there is extra room in the case to accommodate some accessories such as shoes, clothing, and perhaps a helmet. As you travel with your bike and gain experience in your own customized packing process, you may discover that some of the original pieces are unnecessary. You may also feel that you may need some extra protection with new accessories. Feel free to experiment, and let us know if you have a great idea. Now, let s get packing

23 Packing: Packing Materials Illustration by Merle Rothweiler, BF Final Assembly Expert

24 Packing: Seat 1. Ready case and packing materials Remove packing materials and place in an orderly manner where you can see all components. Fig. 1 Ready case & packing materials. 2. Remove Accessories Before disassembling and packing your SatRDay, remove all extra accessories including racks. Now remove the seat pad and set aside. Fig. 2 Remove accessories and seat pad. 3. Remove seat Loosen front seat quick release (with rubber handle) and slide seat forward off seat rail. Fig. 3 Slide seat off seat rail

25 Packing: Seat 4. Remove Seat cont d Flip seat bar over as shown and undo seat quick release. Remove seat completely, insert quick release back in mount and fasten it down. See page 58 Using a Quick Release. Fig. 4 Remove seat quick release. 5. Collapse Seat Collapse the seat. Fig. 5 Collapse seat. 6. Stow seat Locate large blue felt seat bag and stow seat in it. Fig. 6 Stow seat in blue felt bag

26 Packing: Handlebars 7. Install stay protectors Locate the clear plastic seat stay protector tubes and place over the seat stays. They are notched to fit over the brake mounts (Tour model). Fig. 7 Protect seat stays. 8. Remove Handlebars Loosen the handlebar bolts clamp using the supplied wrench or multi-tool. Do not loosen or remove the small painted rings on the bar. They allow you to return the bars to your personal favorite riding position. Fig. 8 Loosen handlebar bolts. 9. Remove handlebars Remove both handlebars. Place in yellow and red felt bags (Fig 9a) for bars, Fig. 9 Remove handlebars. securing with a rubber band. Place bars to right side of the bike. Fig. 9a Place in felt bags

27 Packing: Remove Stem/Crank 10. Remove stem Undo the lowest stem bolt using the 6mm allen wrench. Fig. 10 Unbolt lower stem bolts. 11. Remove stem Slide the stem out of the socket and place it into the red felt stem bag. Fig. 11 Place stem in felt bag. 12. New style crank If you have a new style Shimano or FSA crank, identified by this exterior cartridge-bearing cup, you will be taking the entire crank off - both crank arms - with the supplied tightening tool. Otherwise, you may leave the free crank arm on the bike but remove the crank and chainring unit

28 Packing: Remove Pedals/Crank 13. Remove pedals Remove the pedals and place in the light blue felt pedal bag. Fig. 13 Remove pedals. 14. Loosen bolts Loosen crank bolts with supplied 5mm allen wrench. Fig. 14 Loosen crank bolts. 15. Loosen crank using special tool Insert special crank tool (see page 62 About 2006 Shimano Cranks ) and turn counter clockwise to release the cap from the crank arm. Fig. 15 Loosen crank with crank tightening tool

29 Packing: Remove left crank 16. Remove crank cap Remove the crank cap and set aside. 17. Remove left crank Remove left crank arm. Place in the yellow felt bag and close with a rubber band. Fig. 16 Remove crank cap. Fig. 17 Remove crank arm. Fig. 17a Place left crank in felt bag. 18. Remove crank ring Remove the crank ring from left crank arm and set aside. Fig. 18 Remove crank ring

30 Packing: Remove right crank 19. Remove right crank Remove the chain from chainrings. Pull right crank assembly from frame. Fig. 19 Remove chain and pull right crank assembly. 20. Replace crank ring Place the silver ring back onto crank spindle. Fig. 12 Replace silver ring onto spindle. 21. Replace crank cap Screw the small crank cap back onto the right crank arm spindle. Fig. 21 Replace crank cap onto spindle

31 Packing: R crank/front wheel 22. Bag crank Place right crank in crank bag. A rubber band will help keep it in place (Fig 22a) 23. Pack right crank Place right crank in upper right hand corner of the suitcase. It must sit in this location for a successful packing. Fig. 22 Stow crank assembly in felt bag. Fig. 22a Secure with rubber band. Fig. 23 Pack right crank in suitcase. 24. Remove front wheel Release front brake and remove the wheel. Remove the quick release taking care not to drop the two springs. See page 60 About V- brakes Fig. 24 Remove front wheel

32 Packing: Important protection 25. Install fork spreader Assemble the quick release inside fork spreader and reinstall in front fork. Fig. 25 Assemble quick release in fork spreader. Fig 25a (left) reinstall in fork. 26. Install headset protector Slide headset protector tube into head tube as shown. This protects the head tube from damage. Fig. 26 Install headset protector. 27. Lower chain catch Before attempting to fold the boom, release the chain catch and make sure chains are caught in hook. NOTE: if you experience difficulties with folding the bike further along in this procedure, try moving this step after step 32, that is, lower the chain catch AFTER the frame is folded. Fig. 27 Release chain catch

33 Packing: Folding the boom 28. Protect boom Wrap vinyl packing material around boom and fasten with supplied velcro straps. Protect bottom bracket shell with the small red and yellow cover and fasten with built-in velcro straps. Fig. 28 Protect boom. 29. Fold boom Fold boom over as far as it will go. Fig. 29 Fold boom

34 Packing: Folding the frame 30. Open rear brake Open rear brake. See page 60 About V-brakes. Fig. 30 Open rear brake. 31. Fold Frame As you begin to fold the frame by pushing down on the rear end of the bike, make sure the brake cable (ses arrow) is not caught on anything. Fig. 31 Make sure brake cable is free. 32. Fold Frame cont d Here s the frame fully folded. Fig. 32 Welcome to the fold!

35 Packing: Place bike in suitcase 33. Fold Frame cont d Use a rubber band to secure all the chains together and hook it around the idler pulley bolt. If you have the DualDrive hub, disconnect the click-box and remove the shift pin. See page 62 DualDrive. Fig. 33 Tie chains together. 34. Place Bike in Case With the bike folded, lay it derailleur side down and oriented as shown. Handlebars can hang outside the case to start. The forks should face out to the side of the travel case. As in this example, you may need to remove the rear wheel to get a good fit. In which case... Fig. 34 Place bike in case. 35. Remove rear wheel Undo the rear wheel quick release, remove wheel and set aside. Bed the frame down in the case, letting the spindle of the crank assembly in the felt bag protrude through the frame for a snug fit (see arrow). Fig. 34 Remove wheel

36 Packing: Pack rear wheel 36. Protect rear wheel Remove the quick release skewer from rear wheel and place in your tool pouch for safe keeping. Place the blue vinyl cassette protector over the cassette using the integrated rubber bands to lash it to the other side of the wheel. Fig. 36 Protect rear wheel. 37. Pack rear wheel Lay the wheel as shown, beween rear seat stays. Fig. 37 Pack rear wheel. 38. Pack seat Close the top of seat bag with a rubber band. Slip the top of the seat under the frame, between the fork blades. Fig. 38 Pack seat

37 Packing: Pack rear wheel 39. Pack seat Make sure the seat fits as far down in the suitcase as possible. Fig. 39 Pack seat. 40. Pack handlebars Lift rear wheel and slip handlebars underneath. Fig. 40 Pack handlebars. NOTE: TravelTrailer and TravelCase (see also page 51) The Bike Friday Travel Trailer (chassis, wheels and axle) is designed to fit in the suitcase with your SatRDay. If it does not, or tips the weight over the airline regulation maxiumu, stow it in a separate bag or as part of your other luggage

38 Packing: Crush protector 41. Place crush protector Position the crush protector in the case and leave the bottom disk in the suitcase for later use. crush protector Fig. 41 Place crush protector. 42. Pack stem The stem goes at the front of the case, near the handlebars. Fig. 42 Pack stem. stem 43. Protect dropouts Cover the ends of the rear dropouts with felt, secure in place with rubber bands. dropouts Fig. 43 Protect dropouts

39 Packing: Fitting it all in 44. Pack front wheel Position the front wheel and crush protector in the case to make sure the lid closes. Fig. 44 Pack front wheel. 45. Pack accessories You can fit the Bike Friday GD folding rack and lots of small items in the cracks. Fig. 45 Pack accessories. Folding rack 46. Pack seat cushion Fold the seat cushion in half and pack it on the right side of the case, again making sure the lid closes. It s a good idea to weigh the seat cushion Fig. 46 Pack seat cushion. case to make sure it is within domestic/ international airline weight limits. 39

40 Quick Folding the SatRDay 1. Before you fold If your bike has a kickstand, raise it at this point. Shift into the small cog in the rear - best accomplished when you are still riding Fig. 1 Getting ready for the quick fold. - change to small cog in rear. 2. Before you fold If you have a front derailleur with two or more chain rings in front, shift the chain into the small chain ring. Fig. 2 Change to small cog on front. 3. Position chain catch Pop the chain catch out from where it is seated, next to hinge. Elastic will keep it attached to the frame. Swing hook under chain as shown. Fig. 3 Engage chain catch

41 Quick Fold 4. Loosen handlebars You ll need the supplied allen wrench, which can be optionally stored in the sleeve holding the cables together. You can also use the appropriate sized wrench in a standard bicycle multitool. Fig. 4 Locate allen wrench to unbolt bars. 5. Loosen handlebars cont d Loosen the bars by turning wrench counter clockwise. Do not loosen the bolts on the painted rings. They help remember your handlebar position. Fig. 5 Unbolt bars. 6. Fold handlebars Bring handlebars up and together. Fig. 6 Bring handlebars together

42 Quick Fold 7. Open stem quick release Open stem quick release. See page 58 Using a Quick Release. Fig. 7 Open stem quick release. 8. Rotate bars clockwise Swivel the handlebars and stem as one unit 180 degrees clockwise (to the right). Fig. 8 Rotate bars clockwise. 9. Release lower stem quick release Holding bars in place with right hand, open stem quick release with left hand and lift it up to disengage. Fig. 9a Release lower stem quick release Fig. 9b Detail

43 Quick Fold 10. Fold bars Let stem and bar unit fold down on right side of the bike. Fig. 10 Fold bars. 11. Position front crank Rotate pedals to approximately this position. Fig. 11 Position front crank. 12. Lift boom Lift the boom upwards towards the seat. Fig. 12 Lift boom towards seat

44 Quick Fold 13. Lift boom cont d The chain will slide across stem hinge, which is protected by a clear plastic guard. Fig. 13 Lift boom cont d. 14. Open seat quick release Open the seat quick release Fig. 14 Open seat quick release. 15. Release seat Release front of seat from frame. Fig. 15 Release seat from frame

45 Quick Fold 16. Flip seat Flip the front of the seat up and over seat support bar. Fig. 16 Flip seat over. 17. Flip seat Let the seat rest on ground behind rear wheel. Fig. 17 Rest seat on ground behind rear wheel. 18. Remove safety strap This strap is used to secure the bike in the unfolded position. Fig. 18 Close strap

46 Quick Fold 19. Fold frame Grasp main tube with right hand and using your right foot, swing rear wheel towards front wheel. The front wheel should be turned 180 degrees. Fig. 19 Fold rear wheel. 20. Fold frame Bring the rear wheel towards the front wheel. It may be necessary to turn the front wheel slightly so that it clears the rear derailleur. Fig. 20 Bring rear wheel in. 21. Fold boom and seat Swing boom over to meet the main tube. If it does not, repeat from step 19 and don t swing the rear wheel quite so fast or far this time. Finally, fold the seat over. NOTE: bikes with an extra long boom may cause the chainring to come in contact Fig. 21 Fold boom and seat. with the seat support frame. In this case, loosen the seat support bar quick release lever all the way and completely remove seat

47 Quick Fold/TravelBag 22. Welcome to the fold! Sierra Lapchynski and Dave Seybert demonstrate a fold well done. Fig. 23 The SatRDay folded. 23. Travel Bag Merle shows a SatRday folded and placed in the soft TravelBag. Generally the wheels should lie at the bottom of the bag, Close the sides, fasten the clips and... Fig. 24 Place in TravelBag. 24. Travel Bag cont d... take it away! There is also a shoulder strap attached for added convenience. 26. Unfolding Your SatRDay Fig. 24 Into the soft bag for transport. Unfolding your bike into riding condition is just the reverse of these steps. Before you ride your bike again, double-check to make certain that all of the quick releases and handelbar bolts are secure, the chain is on the idler pulley and chainrings, and the cables aren t kinked or pinched, and are seated properly in the shifters and brakes

48 Getting a Good Sit on Your SatRDay Bike Friday Sales Expert and Recumbent specialist Dave Seybert offers pertinent pointers on getting a good sit on the new SatRDay The first aspect to focus on is the fore/aft position of the seat on the track that it slides on. This is done by loosening the quick release under the seat with the black rubber handle, and sliding the seat base forward or backward. Just like an upright bike, you want to have the seat positioned so that your leg is almost fully extended, but your knees are not locked, when your foot is at furthest point away from you in the pedalling cycle. Don t extend your toes out to reach the pedals either, just let your foot and ankle move in a comfortable range of motion. The next step is to set the angle of the seat back. This is done by loosening the two small screws where the rectangular support behind the seat changes from black to silver. You can slide the silver upper portion in and out of the black portion to change the angle. Don t pull the silver section out past the knurling marks at the minimum insertion point. The flat center section of the seat should be around 45 degree to the horizontal. The exact position is a matter of Sue McWilliams takes her new bent for its maiden preference, but spin... July, 2006 should allow you

49 Getting a Good Sit (cont d) Larry Varney writes for photo by Jim Harris. to see over the handlebars, and not strain your neck. Finally, you want to set the fore/aft position and height of the handlebars. To do this, you will need to loosen the two large hex bolts at the top of the stem, and the smaller bolts on the colored rings just in front of the stem clamp. The objective is to position the bars so that your arms are relaxed and slightly bent, with your upper arms just grazing your ribcage. You can move the bars forward and back, and butterfly them up and down until you find the right position. It shouldn t take any effort to hold your arms up or extended with the steering centered, otherwise the handling will feel wobbly when your arms get tired. Until you find the right position, just tighten the big hex bolts; they hold the bars in place. The smaller bolts on the colored rings are there to remember the position when you are folding and unfolding the bars. Once you get the bars where you want them, slide the rings back against the stem clamp. Next, twist one ring until the bottom of the hex bolt is touching the other bar. Tighten it, and then twist the other ring until the bottom of its hex bolt is touching the first hex clamp. When you have both tightened, they will stop the bars in the right position when you unfold the bars

50 Getting a Good Sit : Eccentric The Eccentric: A Special Fit Feature of the SatRDay Touring model On the SatRDay Tour model, the height of the bottom bracket is adjustable. When you took delivery of your SatRday, the bottom bracket was set to the Close up of the eccentric - used for adjusting the height of the bottom brac ket and pedals. highest position. You can adjust the height of the bottom bracket and pedals to your preference by turning the eccentric inside the cradle that the folding boom rests on. You will need a 5mm allen wrench (your multi tool has one) and pair of needlenose pliers or a Park Tool pin spanner (the right one has a green vinyl handle). Loosen the outer ring on the eccentric with the Allen wrench and hold it in place, with the boom cradle at 12 o clock. Put the tips of the needle nose pliers (or the pins on the spanner) in the indentations on the eccentric and rotate it forward. Tighten the bolt on the outer ring to secure the cradle in the new position. The cradle should be flush with the bottom and one side of the boom to reduce boom flex. Before you ride, spin the cranks and turn the front wheel from side to side to make sure that the pedals or your foot won t interfere with the tire (or fender) on the down stroke of the pedal. That would limit your ability to steer in certain situations. It may be necessary to revisit the earlier steps of the fitting process to fine tune your riding position to his new adjustment. For more tips, see

51 Accessories: TravelTrailer The Bike Friday TraveCase (suitcase) has undergone several changes over the years, and many are still in use. Pictured is the original Samsonite suitcase. The TravelTrailer (chassis) has largely remained unchanged. 1. Trailer Parts Fig. 1 Travel Trailer parts. If you purchased a TravelTrailer with your bike, you should have two trailer wheels and two yellow felt bags with the tongue and axle. The bottom of your TravelCase should have three holes drilled in it if you ordered the trailer with your bike. If you ordered the TravelTrailer system separately, you will need to find the three dimple marks in the bottom of your case and drill them through 2. Connect Axles In the smaller yellow felt bag there should be two axles and a T-bar. Slip the open ends of the axles over the T of the T-bar. Each axle will have a threaded stud with a thumb nut and two flat washers. Remove the thumb nuts and one of Fig. 2 Assemble trailer axle. the washers from each stud (leaving one washer over each stud post). 3. Attach Trailer Axle With the case open and standing on its left side, attach the axle assembly by slipping the two threaded studs through the two holes in the right side of the case. The end of the T-bar should be pointing at the third hole Fig. 3 Attach trailer axle. 51

52 Accessories: TravelTrailer 4. Add Thumb Nuts Place one of the flat washers over each threaded stud, and then loosely thread on the thumb nuts do not tighten them yet. Fig. 4 Attach washers & thumb nuts. 5. Attach Trailer Tongue Take the long trailer tongue and remove the thumb nut and one washer from the threaded stud. Slip the hollow end of the tongue over the end the of the T-bar so that the threaded stud in the tongue fits into the remaining hole in the case. Fig. 5 Trailer tongue over T-bar. 6. Add Last Thumb Nut Place one flat washer over the threaded stud inside the case and add the last thumb nut. Now securely finger tighten all three thumb nuts inside the case. Each attachment point should be a sandwich consisting of trailer frame, flat washer, nylon case, flat washer and then thumb nut. Fig. 6 Tongue thumb nut

53 Accessories: TravelTrailer 7. Wheel Axles From one axle end remove the clevis pin, the flat washer and the rubber O-ring. Note the order of these parts when installing the trailer wheel. Fig. 7 Axle washers. 8. Install Trailer Wheel Each trailer wheel has two bearings; one is flush with the outside of the wheel, and the other is recessed. Slide the trailer wheel over the axle end with the recessed side down and the flush side up (away from the trailer). Fig. 8 Mount trailer wheel. 9. Add Axle End Washers First install the rubber O- ring so that it sits next to the wheel bearing. Then install the flat washer over the O- ring. Fig. 9 First add O-ring, then flat washer

54 Accessories: TravelTrailer 10. Insert Clevis Pin Insert the clevis pin through the hole in the axle end to secure the wheel. The flat washer should be lightly pressing against the clevis pin from the inside, with the O-ring acting as a sort of spring to keep the wheel from rattling on the axle. Fig. 10 Insert clevis pin. 11. Connect Trailer Hitch To attach the trailer hitch to your frame, simply pull the knurled collar on the coupler back while you push the coupler over the nipple on the frame. Fig. 11 Using your trailer hitch. 12. Ready To Go! When you release the knurled collar, the coupler should be secure and ready to go. If the knurled collar becomes stiff and does not spring closed, add some light lubricant such as TriFlow or WD-40 to the coupler. Fig. 12 Trailer hitch connected

55 Accessories: Folding Rear Rack 1. GD Folding Rear Rack This ingenious handmade folding cro-moly rear rack, named after its inventor Gavin Donahue formerly of Bike Friday, will securely carry your travel gear anywhere in the world. Plus, it folds quickly and Fig. 1 GD Folding Rear Rack. compactly for easy packing in your TravelCase suitcase. The GD rack is packed in a yellow felt bag, and has two extra 5mm bolts for mounting it to your bike. (The other two required bolts are already in your frame.) The SatRDay variant is mounted a little differently from the other Bike Friday models. See following section. 2. Unfold Rack The two sets of main legs unfold down, while the two black aluminum stays unfold over the top. Fig. 2 Unfold GD rack. 3. Insert 5mm Bolts Let the holes in the main legs overlap at the bottom and then insert a supplied 5mm bolt through each pair of legs. Fig. 3 Place bolts through leg holes

56 Accessories: Folding Rear Rack The following instructions are specific to the SatRDay model only. 4. Mount Legs To Frame Thread the bolts into the eyelets on the drop outs on each side of the bike. The rack legs should have their Fig. 4 Mount rack legs to drop outs. ends on the outside of the drop outs. Leave the bolts loose for now. 5. Attach Struts The pair of narrow front strut attaches to the rear bolts (Fig 5a). The pair of rear struts 6. Attach struts cont d Attach pair of wide front struts to the bolts on the frame as shown. Tighten all mounting bolts securely. If you would like to attach a rear reflector or a rear tail light, there is a threaded mount on the rear of the rack. Fig. 5a (left), 5b (above) Attach struts crosses over the front struts and attaches to the forward bolts (Fig 5b) Fig. 6 Tighten all bolts securely

57 Accessories: Fenders 1. Front Fender Your front fender has an alignment pin (a small bolt) through the aluminum tab beneath the mounting hole. The fender is attached to the fork by the upper hole, while the alignment pin keeps the fender from rotating. Example shown is a SatRDay Fig. 1 Front fender. Tour - note the eccentric adjustment ring for the boom. 2. Rear Fender Your rear fender has one hole in the aluminum tab, and the fender extends farther forward of the tab than the front fender. The fender is attached to the rear end by the bolt in the wish bone. Fig. 2 Rear fender. Stay nice and dry on the road! says long time SatRDay owner and Bike Friday Customer Service Rep Hugh Larkin

58 Using a Quick Release Using Those Nifty Quick Releases On a cold and snowy day in the 1927 Gran Premio della Vittoria, a tired and numb Tullio Campagnolo struggled with the frozen wing nuts on his rear wheel while trying to change gears. In a moment of frustration and inspiration, Campagnolo envisioned the modern quick release - and the bicycle world was transformed. The quick release is one of those simple but great inventions that really makes life better. However, if used incorrectly you can potentially endanger yourself. Although a reliable and safe product, some people have been injured because they didn t know how to properly use this elegant device. Your Bike Friday travel bike has several of them. If you are not familiar with their operation, PLEASE study these directions carefully. If you are still unclear on their operation, call us or contact your favorite local bike shop before you ride! Quick Release Operation A quick release is a simple cam with a lever that swings through an arc that is square to the axle. As the lever moves the cam clamps the wheel to the frame, or secures the frame joint. It is not a wing nut to be rotated about the axle. The tension on the quick release is controlled by how tight the knurled nut on the other end is set. Only wheel quick releases have the small cone-shaped springs. Note that the small ends of the springs face toward the center of the hub. Quick Release Maintenance We recommend adding a few drops of light oil to the lever where it enters the cap several times per year. This will keep your quick release working smoothly for years to come. Knurled Nut (adjust tightness here) Open (Loose) (Starts getting tight here) Closed (Stiff) QR Lever

59 Using a Quick Release 1. Adjust Knurled Nut With the wheel installed and the axle properly seated in the frame (or the frame joint closed), position the QR lever so that it is in line with the axle. Then turn the knurled nut on the other side clockwise until it is snug. When the QR is properly Fig. 1 Quick release operation. adjusted, you should be able to freely swing the QR lever for the first half of its arc, at which point the lever should offer resistance. 2. Continue Closing QR Using the palm of your hand press the QR lever through the rest of its arc until the lever is closed and parallel to the wheel. You should feel very firm resistance when the QR is properly adjusted (the lever may even leave a light imprint in the palm of your hand). Fig. 2 Setting quick release tightness. 3. Double-Check! Ideally, the QR lever should be facing rearward, or upward. Levers which are facing forward can catch on any number of things and be accidentally opened. Convention usually has the front wheel quick release Fig. 3 Closed QR pointing rearward. lever on the left side of the bike, although this is not critical

60 About V-brakes (Tour model) Reconnect V-Brake If you have a V-brake, before closing it, check to make certain that the housing is properly seated into its ferrules (metal end tubes) at both ends. With the brake open, the housing can slip to the side and keep the brake from closing properly. 1. Check housing for seating. Common places to check are the brake lever barrel adjuster (top), and where the housing enters the noodle (bottom). Close V-Brake To close the V-brake, press both arms together (A), and insert the noodle (B) into the noodle holder (C). The end of the noodle has a bullet shaped tip that should be inside the holder, but just sticking through the cable keyhole. A B 2. Close V-brake. C A Double-Check Brake! Regardless of which model of brake you have, make certain your brake is properly set up. Test squeeze the brake levers; you may have to adjust the barrel adjuster to remove any excess cable slack. A final check can be done after the rest of the bike is assembled. Continued next page. 3. Proper noodle tip position

61 About V-brakes, cont d Opening Front Brake If you have a side-pull brake, simply flip up the small lever on the side of the brake (not shown). If you have V-brakes, press the arms together (A), and A A then pull the elbow-shaped C noodle out and up (B) while Fig. 4 Open brake arms (V-brake). pushing the noodle holder down (C). There is a slot in the end of the noodle holder for the brake cable to slip out. Removing Front Wheel After removing the front wheel, close the brake again. Remove the quick release from the axle by undoing the knurled nut. Be careful not to lose the small cone-shaped springs. Because of the special lawyer lips which are designed to prevent the Fig. 5 Remove front wheel. wheel from falling out when riding, you may have to jiggle the wheel a bit to allow it to drop out. Put the quick release through the fork spreader (the short PVC dowel), and thread on the knurled nut again. Both small coneshaped springs should be on the quick release shaft. B

62 About 2006 Shimano Cranks How to use the torque wrench (supplied) If you ordered your SatRDay with 2006 Shimano 105, Ultegra or Dura-Ace cranks, you will notice two 6mm bolts on either side of the crank spindle. These must be tightened with a special torque wrench supplied with your bike (Fig 1). The wrench prevents overtightening and thus voiding the warranty. Shimano s Sora, Tiagara, and all other non- Shimano name cranks do not have these bolts, and are tightened in the usual manner with a standard 8mm wrench or the little removeable Allen head that comes with your multi-tool - the wrench or multi tool will come with your bike. Fig. 1 Torque wrench supplied Fig. 2 First tighten with 6mm wrench Fig inchpounds To use the torque wrench: First, tighten the crank bolts with your 6mm wrench. Next, calibrate the wrench to inch-pounds (12-15 Newton Meters) as follows: screw the barrel up to the 95 mark on the vertical scale, then turn the barrel so that the mark representing 11 is lined up with the center line on that scale (95+11 = see Fig 3. Insert the head in the bolt and start turning clockwise. When the maximum calibrated torque is reached, the tool will spin out and not allow you to tighten the bolt any further. Fig. 4 Tightening tool These newer cranks also come with a special tightening tool for the crank spindle itself (Fig 4). This tool is also used to prevent overtightening

63 DualDrive Hub Using Your Optional DualDrive Hub For many bike travelers, the DualDrive hub offers the perfect combination of wide gear ratios, simplicity, and durability. As with a standard drive train, there is no single best shifting order on a DualDrive equipped bicycle. Experiment and find what works well for you. A cyclist with a standard drive train must be conscious to avoid cross-chaining, which occurs when you shift into a small gear in front and a small one in back, or a vice versa. Cross-chaining can cause excessive wear on your components. Since cross-chaining is not an issue with the DualDrive hub, any gear combination is acceptable. Other benefits include being able to shift the hub when standing still at a stop light or the bottom of a hill. Simply shift the internal hub to a lower gear (without even pedaling) and off you go. The DualDrive single-sided shifter has an icon depicting uphill, flat, and downhill terrain to identify low, middle, and high gears. If your Bike Friday travel bicycle is equipped with different shift levers, the left hand lever controls the internal hub. Pulling the cable in shifts the hub to a higher gear for descending hills. For those who are curious about the gear ratios, adjust your gear inches for low gear by 73%, mid-range 100% (1:1), and high gear 136%. Maintenance Your DualDrive hub requires little maintenance. The shielded bearings are very durable, and the internal mechanism is highly reliable. Periodically applying a little oil to the shifting rod is all that is required. If you ride casually, then once a year is sufficient. If you ride a lot more or in poor weather, then every six months will suffice. We recommend a service inspection/overhaul every 2 years or 3000 miles, which ever comes first, to ensure optimum hub performance. To lubricate the rod, remove the click box and the shifting rod (see the following directions). Lay the bike on its left side, or remove the wheel and then lay the wheel on its left side. Dip or coat the shifting rod in a good quality synthetic oil such as Phil Wood Tenacious Oil. Do not over lubricate! Let the bike or wheel lay on its side overnight. Then re-attach the shifting rod (do not over tighten) and the click box

64 DualDrive Hub 1. The Click Box The DualDrive shift cable connects to a grey and/or black box attached to your rear hub axle above the rear derailleur. To install and remove the rear wheel you will need to detach and reconnect this click box to the axle in a few simple steps. Fig. 1 The click box. Start by shifting the DualDrive hub into the lowest gear (uphill icon, or repeatedly press the small lever on STI shifters). 2. Attachment Button The small black button on the click box is used to attach the box to the axle. In the up position the box is connected. To remove the click box, press this button down until it is flush with the top of the box. Fig. 2 Click box button up (connected). 3. Remove Click Box With the black button down, the click box should just slide off of the axle end. The click box will remain connected to the shift cable. Fig. 3 Click box button down (detach)

65 DualDrive Hub 4. Shifting Rod Underneath the click box is a small screw head called Tighten the shifting rod. The click box pulls or pushes this rod Loosen in and out to shift gears. Normally you do not need to remove this rod to remove the wheel. Fig. 4 Shifting Rod. However, be careful not to bend the rod head. If you need to remove the rear wheel to pack your bike or fix a flat, either remove the rod and keep it in a safe location or put the protector sleeve (required for only a few bike models) over the axle and pin head. If you wish to add some oil to the hub, remove the shifting rod and dip or coat the rod with good quality oil. See the paragraph on hub maintenance for more information. When screwing the shifting rod back into the hub, be careful not to over-tighten. Just lightly tighten the shifting rod with a flat screwdriver, until snug. 5. Removing Rear Wheel With the click box removed, loosen the two axle nuts with a 15mm wrench, a crescent wrench, or your pedal/headset wrench in the tool pouch. The wheel should slide out. Loosen Tighten The axle washers have Fig. 5 Axle washer, bottom view. a tab on one side. When reinstalling the rear wheel, place the washers on the outside of the drop outs (the part of the frame which holds the wheels), with the tab pointed down and facing toward the wheel. With the axle properly seated in the drop outs, tighten the axle nuts securely. Do not forget to reconnect the brake after installing the wheel!

66 DualDrive Hub 6. Reattaching Click Box To reattach your click box to the axle, first ensure the black button is all the way down, flush with the top as in Figure 3. If you cannot get the button down, it is because the shift cable pulled the small black shifting fork (circled in Figure 6 and 6a) out of its proper position. This can happen when the click box hangs by the shift cable. First, make certain the shift cable housing is properly seated at the shift lever, any cable stops, and in the click box barrel adjuster. Fig. 6 Shifting fork down, button down. Next, to get the button Fig. 6a Shifting fork up, button stuck. down, push the fork tip down toward the hole in the box with your finger while applying pressure to the black button. You may need to keep your finger on this button to keep it from popping up from cable movement. 7. Mount Click Box With the button down, place the click box over the axle as far as it will go, and then press the black button up. Your click box is now properly connected. With very gentle tugging, you should only feel slight spring-like resistance. Fig. 7 Place over axle end. Fig. 7a Button up (connected again)

67 DualDrive Hub 8. Adjusting DualDrive The DualDrive hub adjustment is very simple. First shift the DualDrive into the middle gear (flat terrain, or middle STI position). On top of the click box is a small clear window showing a couple of ladder-like bars over a brightly colored indicator needle. Fig. 8 Adjusting window. Turn the tapered barrel adjuster, where the housing enters the click box (Figure 8a), until the needle is centered between the bars in the clear window. It s that simple. When you move the shift lever you can see the Needle In needle move to the different positions. All new bikes will need some initial adjustment Needle Out as parts wear in, housing compresses and the cables stretch. If your bike does not Fig. 8a Barrel adjuster. shift properly, take it to your local bike shop for adjustment. Before long, however, your bike should be functioning trouble free

68 Trouble Shooting V-Brake Centering And Spring Adjustment (Touring models) V-brake arms are held off of the rim by a spring in each arm. To center the brake (allowing both arms to retract an equal amount), you need to adjust the respective spring tensions. At the base of each V-brake arm near the pivot is a small screw pointing to the side. Turning this screw will change the centering of the brake. On the side which needs to retract farther, tighten this screw in half-turn increments. You may also consider loosening the side which retracts too far. Thread Sizes The stainless steel bolts that attach your rack to your bicycle use one of the most common thread sizes available today. If you loose one of these small bolts you will most likely find replacement hardware locally. The thread size for the rack, water bottle cage, derailleur and brake cable clamp bolts is a metric 5mm x 0.8mm. A US standard thread of can also be used. The thread size for many of the frame parts and the front rack cross bar is a slightly larger 6mm x 1.0mm. Every bike shop and virtually any hardware store world-wide will stock these bolts in a variety of lengths. If you are unable to find replacements while on tour give us a call or send us an and we can ship to you what you need to get back on the road. What is it? This little mysterious tool is supplied with Shimano crank arms. To remove the new generation of Shimano crank arms with the over-size bottom bracket spindles you need to use this temporary plug with your crank arm removal tool