Spitsbergen Ody ssey July 2017 Polar Pioneer

Transcription

1 Spitsbergen Ody ssey July 2017 Polar Pioneer

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3 ABOUT US Aurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild and remote places on our planet. With over 20 years experience, our small group voyages allow for a truly intimate experience with nature. Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting wildlife experiences and fascinating lectures. You ll share your adventure with a group of like-minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every opportunity for adventure and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of naturalists, historians and destination specialists are passionate and knowledgeable they are the secret to a fulfilling and successful voyage. Whilst we are dedicated to providing a trip of a lifetime, we are also deeply committed to education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.

4 DAY 1 Sunday, 16 July 2017 Longyearbyen & Isfjord Position: 21:30 hours Course: 270 Wind Speed: 3 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 10.1 knots Wind Direction: W Air Temp: 8 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 4 C Finally the day had arrived to begin our great Arctic adventure. After months of planning and anticipation we congregated at the small town of Longyearbyen, once a thriving coal mining outpost. Weather conditions delivered grey skies with a chill wind, reminding us of the need, in this fickle environment, to have an extra layer of warm clothing at hand. After a tour of the town, taking in the Museum and various sights, it was time to board Polar Pioneer, our ice-strengthened Russian vessel, at the wharf in readiness for adventure. We clambered up the gangway and from there were shown to our cabins, with just enough time to dive into our suitcases before a Welcome Briefing. Expedition Leader Christian welcomed us and talked of plans for the coming days. He introduced the rest of the Aurora staff before turning to the serious topic of safety at sea. At 1800 we slipped our moorings and pushed back from the wharf. A formation of eiders flew by, guillemots bobbed in the water, glaucous gulls hovered overhead. Those out on deck or in the Bridge had glimpses of Svalbard s famous Doomsday Seed Vault, while others enjoyed the island s steely afternoon light, with sunlight dappling the surrounding mountains. Our group of 53 expeditioners represents Australia, UK, USA, Belgium, Germany, Poland, Sweden and Switzerland, along with 10 Aurora Expeditions staff and our 22 capable Russian crew. Seven short and one long blast of the ship s horn was our cue to gather at the muster stations and don bulky orange lifejackets. Into the two lifeboats we climbed to experience the cosy ambience of a polar class life vessel. Kayaking Guide Matt rounded up his paddlers for a briefing, while the rest of us explored decks, or enjoyed a delicious drink at Justine s bar. Our first dinner together was an opportunity to meet new friends, and sample the first of Chefs Al and Bert s delicious dinners. Birthday girl Tina McGiffin enjoyed her first dinner with champagne, cake and plenty of well wishes. The day was not yet done with The Great Gumboot Giveaway drawing a crowd of socked feet down in the Lecture Room. Then at last we were ready for a well-earned night s sleep.

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6 DAY 2 Monday, 17 July 2017 Lilliehookbreen & Ossian Sarsfjellet Position: 22:10 hours Location: Kongsfjorden Wind Speed: 20 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: at anchor Wind Direction: W Air Temp: 3 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 3 C A sumptuous breakfast, important Zodiac and polar bear briefings, then into our layers. We stamped on rubber boots, zipped up lifejackets, turned our tags and clambered down the gangway. What gorgeous conditions for a first Zodiac cruise at Lilliehookbreen. Not a breath of breeze on the water, just ominous rumblings and reports of calving ice along the length of the 30-metre high glacier. This, too, was our first experience of Arctic birdlife with fulmars, Arctic terns and Arctic skuas crossing the skies, while on the water, small black guillemots made a stark contrast to the sparkle of brash ice strewn across the bay. With the overcast backdrop, the blues of the glacier looked at their most intense. As to the question What makes ice blue? read on! Blue ice can be indicative of very old glacial ice. As more layers of snow are deposited onto a glacier, the snow beneath gradually transforms into ice. The sheer weight of the upper part of the glacier slowly squeezes air bubbles from its lower levels of ice to form clear ice. Light penetrates deeper into clear ice and all but blue wavelengths of light are absorbed. This results in an iceberg with a luminous blue appearance. Deep blue streaks and lines within icebergs may also result from meltwater that drained into crevices within the glacier or iceberg and later refroze. Here we took our first footsteps on Arctic soil. In fact we took many footsteps when the group split into two. Gary and Jukka led a vigorous walk up into the higher reaches, and were treated to a sighting of several Svalbard reindeer. Christian s group stopped to smell the mountain avens, so to speak, as well as to admire the lush tundra vegetation of this highly valued site. We walked among the bright pink flowers of moss campion, carpets of bell heather, and stretches of moss and grasses. We stopped to watch a rock ptarmigan, two reindeer, and several Arctic skuas cautiously monitoring their territory. In the evening before dinner we gathered together in Justine s bar to enjoy complimentary drinks, snacks, and to spend time with our good captain, Yury Gorodnik, who offered us a warm welcome to his ship. It took all our efforts to finally prise the boisterous crowd from the bar and down into the dining rooms to enjoy another delicious meal prepared by Al, Bert and served by Ira and Jay. A fabulous introduction to this wild northerly land. In the afternoon we transitioned from glacial ice to a katabatic wind blasting straight off the glacier as we motored toward Ny London. Alas, conditions got the better of us and Christian made the decision that our best chance of landing was further along the way at Ossian Sarsfjellet.

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8 DAY 3 Tuesday, 18 July 2017 Virgohamna, Smeerenburg & Ytre Norskøya Position: 22:00 hours Course: 101 (off Moffen Island) Wind Speed: 6 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 0.6 knots Wind Direction: N Air Temp: 5 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 5 C No sooner had we clambered into Zodiacs when the cry went out for whales. Two fin whales were moving north past the ship, then turned south. Luckily for us we gained close views as these enormous mammals surfaced and blew. We then left the whales alone and made our way across the channel to inspect a whale carcass washed ashore. With hungry bears searching for a meal, the carcass turned out to be a major hot spot: Christian spotted a young bear sleeping thirty metres inland. Our first bear! We brought the Zodiacs around to a clear vantage point and had fantastic views of the Arctic s top predator. The paparazzi went wild! We expected to make a beeline for Danskøya but a mother polar bear and cub had us deviate to a nearby island for more marvellous views. We could scarcely believe our luck. At Virgohamna, situated on Danskøya (Danish Island), Carol guided a tour around this historic site, famous for both its 17 th Century Dutch whaling ventures, and for being the starting point for several attempts to reach the North Pole. Carol explained the elaborate infrastructure, including airship and balloon hangars, and gas production facilities. The second group over at Smeerenburg, wandered past the remains of another important 17 th Century whaling station, now home to dozens of terns and their chicks. But the true stars were 30 or so walrus hauled out on the beach. Not a human squeak was heard as we carefully inched our way closer to marvel at these incredible animals. In the afternoon we ventured ashore at the small island of Ytre Norskøya on the north-west corner of Spitsbergen. The sun shone, the ocean was mirror still. We sweltered as we made our way uphill to a vantage point overlooking the cliffs. Here, little auks zoomed in and out, while dozens of puffins returned to their lofty homes after foraging at sea. Glaucous gulls showed off large fluffy chicks, while on the water families of eiders meandered around the coastline. Our 12 hardy kayakers enjoyed a fantastic paddle around the island. Conditions could not have been nicer and the colourful flotilla looked an absolute picture against a sparkling Arctic ocean. Back onboard Christian called us together for a pre-dinner recap to talk about our stupendous day and the many wonders we had experienced. Gary spoke about polar bears, Carol regaled us with tales of early explorers, while Jukka told us about walrus and their fascinating ecology. After dinner our ship motored close to Moffen Island where we were treated to a haul-out of 50 or more walrus. This location offered bragging rights for another enviable reason: we had crossed over the 80 North latitude! Female Polar Bear A female polar bear is one of the most remarkable animals in the Arctic. While the males spend all year hunting, a pregnant female enters a den in October and hibernates. Come January she gives birth to 1-4 cubs (usually 2) and raises them to about 20kgs each before coming out of the den in March 5 months without eating and still raising her cubs!

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10 DAY 4 Wednesday, 19 July 2017 Arctic Pack Ice Position: 21:30 hours Course: 119 Wind: nil Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 0.1 knots Air Temp: 2 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 0 C Grey skies, fog, a muted vista of white. Dull? No, Siree. Not to the good people of MV Polar Pioneer who woke to the incredulous, awesome, frozen otherworld of Arctic pack ice. The ice was here, the ice was there and ahead of us, far in the distance, was a polar bear foraging amongst the pack. Captain Yury manoeuvred our ship through heavy pack ice, hoping to get close to the bear, but even with our ice-strengthened might, the bear continued to outpace us. Away we peeled in search of new adventures. Fog waxed and waned, while up in the bridge our diehard polar bear spotters had binoculars sharpened after hearing from another ship of a bear near our location. While we watched and waited, Gary gave the first in our formal presentations, this one on the animals of the north. Gary educated us on the appearance, behaviour, adaptation and life cycle of Svalbard natives reindeer, bear, fox, and even the truly weird Greenland shark creatures who eke out an existence in the harshest conditions. Then the call we had all been hoping for: a female polar bear off our starboard side. There she was in all her glory, feeding on a fresh slaughter, likely a harp or bearded seal. Our bear looked in top form. Indeed, with a thick pad of blubber and a full-figured belly, she must surely rate as a hot number in the polar bear world. Captain Yury cut the ship s motors to silence extraneous noise. As luck had it we drifted nearer to the ice floe, with gobsmacking views of the bear. She, unflustered by the ship, continued flensing the seal carcass with her teeth, daintily dining on its blubber while largely ignoring the red meat. Rainy conditions did not deter us from crowding on the bow and flying bridge to watch and marvel at this entirely natural but astonishing spectacle. We had to pinch ourselves. Here we were just metres from a polar bear who was feasting on her hunt in the freezing temperatures of her natural habitat. Ringed and bearded seal are a staple for polar bears, and in close pack ice such as this, bears can move swiftly and use their heightened sense of smell to sniff out a seal hauled up on the ice. Polar bears have such a finely tuned sense of smell that they are even able to use their weight to break through an ice floe and drag out a baby seal totally concealed in its icy cavern beneath the surface. We had the enormous privilege of leisurely observing our bear devour a sizable meal, one that would sustain her for more than a week. We returned indoors to the warmth of our cosy ship and to home-baked cookies. Along with a warming drink we headed down to the lecture room to learn from Carol about Svalbard s rich and varied history, vividly brought to life. Part 2 not to be missed! After a get-together in the bar, and a delicious dinner, we crawled into warm bunks, sated and thankful for this sublime Arctic day. Arctic weigh-ins: Arctic fox: Ringed seals: 3-4 kgs kgs Svalbard reindeer: Females: kgs Males: kgs Harp seals: kgs Polar bears: Bearded seals: kgs Females: Males: kgs kgs

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12 DAY 5 Thursday, 20 July 2017 Exploring the pack ice Position: 20:20 hours Course: 160 Wind Speed: 16 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 8.8 knots Wind Direction: S Air Temp: 5 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 2 C Most northerly point of our voyage, 20 July at 0800: N, E Our second day amongst the pack ice was one out of the box, with Svalbard showered with summer sun. Rays gilded the ocean, while turquoise water fringing the ice floes looked positively tropical. We were in the vicinity of the Seven Islands, north of Nordaustlandet. Stretching out from the islands was a sizable expanse of sea ice just the terrain for the mighty polar bear, Ursus maritimus. Our ship broke through large pans of ice, churning up ocean water, among it small fish who fled the attention of glaucous gulls. Indeed, a keen group of gulls tracked our course, swooping down with each new break in the ice, to pluck a fish or three. Why were we bashing through ice? We were on course to see a polar bear. Our third! Captain and his crew spent most of the morning nudging the ship forward. With the sun shining, and no breeze, the bow proved a popular meeting place to enjoy our progress, and keep eyes on the bear as it marched across the ice at speed. We had reasonable views of this mighty creature, but no sooner had the bear crossed our path than our spotters Christian, Jukka and Gary announced a fourth bear in the distance. Conditions were perfect to gather on the bow for a group photo then, with the calls for bears continuing, it was time for an early lunch as our ship attempted to move to a premium vantage point. The early afternoon was also a perfect opportunity for a little retail therapy, with all manner of Arctic mementoes on sale in the ship shop. Justine, Carla and Di were in full swing, at the ready to assist shoppers during the frenzy. Throughout the day we counted five bears, none of whom were interested in our ship. The pack ice offered more enticing rewards with the prospect of a seal hauled out on the ice. Finally it was time for our ship to move south toward Hinlopen Strait. No sooner had we steamed away when the wind got up, the sky clouded over, and we tasted our first real movement on the water. That didn t stop a friendly recap in the bar before dinner, or the after-dinner screening of an inspiring but sobering documentary, Ice and the Sky, the story of a legendary French scientist whose early polar research, during the late 1950s, led to an awareness of climate change. Polar Pioneer eased back out to open water and skirted around the edge of the sea ice. A group of harp seals bobbed up their heads in the water, but with so many bears about, none were taking their chances by being exposed up on the ice. Norwegian English Norwegian English aust east nes(et) naze, point berg(et) mountain, hill nord north breen glacier øy(a) island buk(ta) bay, bight pynt point by(en) town sør south dal(en) valley topp(en) peak fjell(et) mountain, hill vest west hytte hut vik(a) creek, cove kapp cape

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14 DAY 6 Friday, 21 July 2017 Oxfordhalvøya & Alkefjellet Position: 18:00 hours Course: 248 Wind: nil Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 10.2 knots Air Temp: 10 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 3 C Off we zipped after breakfast for a morning Zodiac cruise and paddle around Oxfordhalvøya at the head of Wahlenbergfjorden. A large flock of pink-footed geese waddled along the shore then made their way out into the water. These geese are in the midst of their annual moult. They shed all their flying feathers in one go and are unable to fly for a period of two or three weeks until new feathers grow. Brent geese and eiders also made an appearance, along with an inquisitive ringed seal who bobbed up around the Zodiacs. We motored around the bay when a polar bear was seen on a far ridge. Even more thrilling, another bear was spotted down on the shoreline. The thirteenth bear of our voyage! Kayaks and Zodiacs hot-tailed it over to the site, there to discover a hefty male, weighing in at around 500 kgs our biggest boy so far, bearing facial scars of a seasoned warrior. The largest polar bear ever recorded on Svalbard weighed a massive 700 kgs! Our polar bear was feeding on the carcass of a bearded seal. Zodiacs and kayaks had fantastic close-up views of the King of the Arctic who had clearly had a substantial fill of seal blubber and meat. Eventually he ambled away but no sooner was he gone than the first bear from the ridgeline, a younger male, wandered down to the carcass. This smaller bear was highly wary, continually on the lookout in case the larger male returned. The kayakers set off to paddle back to the ship and spotted an Arctic fox trotting along the shoreline. We all arrived back to the mother ship in time for the infamous Polar Plunge, when 22 certifiable expeditioners proceeded to hurl themselves off a perfectly good ship. The shock of 2 C water proved a breathtaking event, but Justine had towels and a medicinal dose of vodka waiting at the top of the gangway. Well done, plungers! Al and Bert cooked up another fantastic lunch thank you, dear chefs which fortified us for our afternoon outing. This time our paddlers steamed down the coast toward a large glacier. The Zodiacs landed at Pemmikanpynten, a safe distance from our morning bears. Onshore, the long walkers enjoyed seeing reindeer, while the ramblers relished panoramic views and wildflowers, including Svalbard poppies. After dinner we piled into Zodiacs to cruise the outstanding cliffs of Alkefjellet. Here, tens of thousands of Brunnich s guillemots nest on the craggy ledges of 100-metre-high dolerite towers. The air was a theatre of wings as guillemots flew out from their perches or returned from foraging at sea. The birds are still sitting on eggs, with chicks due to hatch at any day. Matt s kayakers battled lively seas, while those in the Zodiac bounced and bobbed in the chop, totally mesmerised by this fantastical spectacle. The sounds were just as otherworldly: a cacophony of bird calls, and meltwater galloping down cliffs in gushing waterfalls. In stark contrast to bare rock streaked white with guano, carpets of lush moss lined the easements at the base of the cliffs. A biting wind finally got the better of us; our wonderful ship beckoned, but not before some got to see their first Arctic fox wandering its home territory of Alkefjellet. Glaciers: Glaciers are at the base of the marine food chain! Nutrient is scarce in Arctic and Antarctic waters. Glaciers steadily erode the surrounding rocks and mountains. Little particles and chips taken from the rocks are then incorporated into the ice, and eventually get released into the ocean by glacier melt and calving, providing much needed food for the phytoplankton.

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18 DAY 7 Saturday, 22 July 2017 Exploring the east coast of Nordaustlandet Position: 22:15 hours Course: 88 Wind Speed: 10 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 0.7 knots Wind Direction: W Air Temp: 6 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 1 C The fog was here, the fog was there Polar Pioneer inched forward amongst loose pack ice. With limited visibility, icebergs appeared from nowhere, making navigation slow and difficult for Captain Yury and his officers. We were on the south coast of Nordaustlandet, eager to travel further east along the coast. Alas, as is the way in the Arctic, conditions reigned supreme and we found ourselves grinding to a halt to wait it out, hoping that the fog would lift. Our morning busied itself with presentations from both Carol and Gary. Carol spoke of the more recent history of Svalbard, including the hunting and trapping era, mining prospects, the importance of the Svalbard Treaty, the impact of the Second World, and finally, the transition of Longyearbyen from a male dominated coal mining hub to a diverse town with families, modern facilities, schools and, in recent times, a huge influx of tourism. Gary followed with an illustrated talk on the seabirds and land birds of Svalbard. We learned about the migratory pattern of the region s birds who, all but the ptarmigan, fly south for the winter, returning in spring to begin their breeding season. Ptarmigan remain in Svalbard over winter, changing their brown summer feather to white winter plumage. After lunch the fog began to lift. Carol managed only part of her lecture on the various attempts to the North Pole from Svalbard when the call came from Christian that the fog was gone and it was time to go out! We hopped into Zodiacs to experience a small stretch of the 170-kilometre-long Bråsvellbreen, the northern hemisphere s longest glacier front. The ice cliffs above the water rose 30 metres and simply glistered in the sun. We could see the many slender striations that marked each season of snowfall, the layers eventually transforming into glacial ice. The sound of the glacier was mesmerising as waterfalls of meltwater poured down the surface of the glacier. We all stopped to marvel at one enormous chute of water that gushed a continual torrent of water. Conditions were calm and warm, and after exploring the glacial front we motored over to the pack ice. The Kayaking flotilla weren t far behind, and our paddlers gained a full sense of this formidable ice cliff. Christian settled on a large pan of sea ice to park the Zodiacs and have everyone clamber out onto an ice floe. What a weird and wonderful feeling to be standing on a piece of frozen Arctic ocean. Finally it was time to return to the ship where Justine had hot chocolate and Tia Maria waiting for us on the bow. In the relative warmth of the afternoon we lingered on the decks, taking a last admiring look at the glacial front before setting a course to the south and on to new adventures. First aircraft quests from Svalbard to North Pole: Andrée (Sweden, ), hot air balloon launched at Virgohamna, crashed on the ice, eventually died on Kvitøya; Wellman (USA, 1906, 1907, 1909), airship, failed with technical problems; Amundsen (Norway, 1925), sea plane from Ny Ålesund. Experienced technical failure at 88 north, returned safely; Byrd (USA, 1926), plane from Ny Ålesund to North Pole. Made it safely back but claim disputed; Amundsen (1926), airship over the North Pole, crash landed in Alaska and survived; Wilkins/Eielson (USA, 1928), flew in a Vega plane from Barrow, Alaska to Spitsbergen. Landed in snowstorm at entrance of Isfjord; Nobile (Italy, 1928), successfully flew to the Pole, surveyed large areas of the Arctic Ocean. On return, Nobile crashed on the ice, resulting in a large rescue operation in which Amundsen and his pilot were killed.

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20 DAY 8 Sunday, 23 July 2017 North coast of Edgeøya & Kapp Lee Position: Latitude: Longitude: 21:30 hours N E Course: 209 Speed: 11.7 knots Wind Speed: Wind Direction: 20 knots SW Barometer: hpa Air Temp: 9 C Sea Temp: 5 C The island of Edgeøya is part of the Svalbard South East Nature Reserve. It was here in Freemansundet that a brisk sou westerly wind blasted, so we waited a while before heading out for our morning landing. Meantime, Gary entertained and educated us with a presentation on Arctic ecology; he offered us a look at the many natural processes that combine to make this ice-capped archipelago at the top of the world the land we call The Arctic. We anchored at a relatively sheltered spot and sped out in the Zodiacs. The headwind and waves ruled out any kayaking for the morning, but instead we all went ashore for a delightful walk upon the tundra. Reindeer grazed on the lush slopes, amongst them two females, a male and two very sweet calves. The long walkers trekked to the east and on their way spotted two Arctic fox. The amblers spent time admiring the reindeer then meandered across the slopes to a chasm carved out of the sandstone by meltwater. Back onboard, Al and Bert produced a fine lunch, Philippino style, which proved a great hit for the hungry masses. Then it was back into gumboots and down the gangway for a landing at Dolerittneset, more commonly known as Kapp Lee. The sun beat down and this lush green valley seemed replete with reindeer, grazing, snoozing, lazing and enjoying the giddying warmth of a summer Sunday afternoon. Gary and Jukka s group spent time with a group of walrus hauled up on the shoreline near Kapp Lee s old, 1920s trapper s hut (the hut has since been renovated), and two adjacent scientific expedition huts dating back to the 1960s. The group then walked along the beach to inspect the carcass of a dead polar bear. This was a young bear that had died of natural causes, perhaps starvation. The same area was home to a graveyard of walrus bones and skulls, from the days when walrus were slaughtered for their blubber, skin and tusks. The skin of the walrus is so tough that it was once used for machine belts. An amiable reindeer decided it preferred the company of humans to being dive bombed by skuas, so it made the acquaintance of both groups of walkers. Christian and Carol s group took a beautiful walk over spongy tundra, and across to a shallow inlet where purple sandpipers tottered amongst dried seaweed. Here, snow buntings flitted and chirped, Christiane launched into a mollusc collecting frenzy, and a collection of reindeer barely paid us notice, opting for an afternoon nap on a mattress of spongy tundra. In terms of vegetation, Kapp Lee has been our most lush site to date, and we could only imagine what a prime spot it would have been for the trappers who worked and lived here. Overnight we rounded the southern tip of Spitsbergen and motored up the west coast to Hornsund, the island s most south-westerly fjord. Trapping days: fox traps These simple yet effective constructions comprised a slatted wooden frame set on a rock and piled with over 20 kgs of boulders on top. The frame was propped up at an angle, supported by wooden sticks that locked together. An additional stick was speared with bait, preferably a ptarmigan head. If a fox took the bait and disturbed the props, the trap would instantly collapse, leaving one squashed fox beneath a weight of stones. With this method, the prized white winter coat of the fox was preserved without having to shoot and damage the pelt. In summer, the coat of the Arctic fox ranges from a mottled brown-grey through to silver.

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22 DAY 9 Monday, 24 July 2017 Hornsund: Gnålodden, Burgerbukta & Samarinbreen Position: 23:30 hours Course: 271 Wind Speed: 10 knots Barometer: 1013 hpa Latitude: N Speed: 9.8 knots Wind Direction: SW Air Temp: 9 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 7 C A day in Hornsund was a day filled with marvels! First up, at Gnålodden, simply navigating the shallow bay at low tide in Zodiacs held its challenges. Gnålodden was the site of a picturesque old trapper s hut located right beneath the bird cliffs. As we now know, foxes and bird cliffs go hand in glove. But first we all got to step inside the pint-sized hut for a taste of trapping life. From Robyn we heard about one notable trapper from the 1930s: Tromsø s Wanny Woldstad who was the very first woman trapper in Svalbard. This hut functioned as her satellite hut, while the home hut was located at Hyttevika, 30 kilometres to the west. Wanny proved herself to be a highly capable trapper and being an excellent riflewoman, she held her own when it came to shooting polar bears. She and her partner Anders Sæterdal spent five winters in the Hornsund region, travelling out to the Gnålodden hut to set fox traps, hunt polar bear, and shoot ptarmigan and seal for bait and for their own meals. But huts and trappers could not compete with a local family of fox, who proved the stars of the show. highly prized for their silvery grey winter pelts. Our family of frolicking foxes could well be descendants from those days. We also had a chance to visit an old whaler s grave, dating back to the 17 th Century, and the remains of a very old Pomor settlement. After lunch we hopped in Zodiacs at Burgerbukta for a cruise down a long fjord to a glacier. In the last 20 years this glacier has receded by over 2 kilometres. Returning back up the fjord, some witnessed a remarkable show of clouds that swept over the mountain top. Backlit by the sun the clouds looked aflame with the colours of the rainbow. In the early evening we anchored at Samarinbreen for a wonderful BBQ on the back deck. Not a blowfly in sight! The chefs cooked up a storm, and Justine s delicious Glühwein really hit the spot. Thank you to all. Music, laughter and dance attracted a humpback whale who cruised by the ship several times. A fantastic finish to a tremendous day in Hornsund. Both Gary s group, who climbed to the higher reaches to view nesting kittiwakes and guillemots, and Carol s group, who kept to the shoreline, were treated to the antics of a family of fox with six or seven kits who just wanted to play, run, dig in the snow, leap upon one another and generally have fun all within close quarters to us. We were delighted by these endearing creatures, and intrigued to see one parent sleeping while the other went in search of a meal, ready to cache. This fox family comprised the two morphs of fox: the white morph, and the rare blue morph. In the trapping days, the Gnålodden area was known for blue fox, It s strange how hungry for a treat you get on an Arctic journey. Roald Amundsen Mrs Klausen s biscuits (used on Roald Amundsen s expeditions) Note: mixture needs to stand overnight 500 grams oatmeal 500 grams butter 100 grams sugar 6 large heaped teaspoons baking powder 500 ml cold milk 500 grams flour Melt butter & sugar, blend in the milk. Add the oatmeal and let mixture stand overnight. Reserve a little flour for rolling out. Mix the baking powder with the flour and knead in. Roll out the mixture, not too thinly. Bake the biscuits over a gentle heat. They will become very crisp.

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26 DAY 10 Tuesday, 25 July 2017 Bellsund: Gåsbergkilen & Ingeborgfjellet Position: 22:00 hours Course: 66 Wind Speed: 2 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 10.3 knots Wind Direction: E Air Temp: 8 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 4 C Promises of rain dissolved away before breakfast, and our last day of expedition proved delightfully mild and dry. Gåsbergkilen (Goose Rock Bay), our morning landing, was a haven of verdant moss and flowers, towered over by bird cliffs alive with the now-familiar calls of kittiwakes and Brünnichs guillemots, their lofty tops disappearing into the clouds. Walking over the verdure was like stepping on a soft, springy, beautifully-decorated mattress. Hoofprints of reindeer were everywhere, drawn here by the luxuriant grazing, which also attracts the many pink-footed and barnacle geese, flocking here in May to breed, and giving name to this awe-inspiring cape. One group of walkers were visited by an Arctic fox, busily hunting for unwary goslings. Our eyes were drawn upwards to a ridge crowned by a distinctive stone cairn, probably built about 100 years ago for geographical surveying of the area. From this prominent spot the longer hikers were rewarded with dramatic vistas of cliff and rock receding upwards and into the distance until they were lost in the mists, to the joy of the photographers. Down below on the other side of the peninsula was an old trapper s cabin originally built in 1898, and still occasionally used today. There, banks of mountain avens bloomed sweetly amongst the bog saxifrage and chickweeds. On the way back to the ship, a short but wonderful Zodiac cruise brought us directly beneath rock faces crammed with kittiwake nests and guillemots standing shoulder to shoulder on the narrow ledges. slopes, which grew to a crescendo as we approached the scree edge. Now and again a thousand wings would take flight, describing great circles above our heads before returning to earth, holding us spellbound with the thrill of it. Even on the Zodiac ride back to the ship, the water was teeming with little auks, their stubby crops full of morsels for their growing chicks. Back on shore the reindeer nonchalantly continued grazing on the rich tundra moss, unmoved by our departure. Then off to Ingeborgfjellet on the northern shore of Bellsund for the last landing of our expedition. We thought there was nothing more to experience we ve had polar bears, walrus, fox families, reindeer, seabirds, shorebirds and cultural history in abundance, but now was something new a little auk colony of breath-taking proportions. First, as we landed on the stony beach, there was the sound of thousands of the little birds nesting in the rocky

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28 DAY 11 Wednesday, 26 July 2017 Longyearbyen Position: 08:00 hours Location: off Longyearbyen Wind Speed: 3 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: at anchor Wind Direction: NE Air Temp: 6 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 4 C Overnight we have arrived in Longyearbyen, waking up to our last morning together on our day of departure from the ship which has been our sturdy and comfortable base for the last ten days. One more Zodiac trip to the dock from Polar Pioneer anchored in the fjord, first for our luggage and then for ourselves. Here we make our farewells, and prepare to travel homewards or on to more adventures. And what a voyage it has been, a complete circumnavigation of Spitsbergen, from the surreal marine world of the sea ice far in the north, to the lush tundra of the southern fjords, the historic sites of the west coast to the high polar desert of eastern Svalbard. The wildlife has amazed us: polar bears hunting, polar bears eating seal, polar bears resting, and even a mother with her cub; walrus wallowing; Svalbard reindeer with mighty antlers placidly grazing; and beautiful white and blue morph Arctic foxes, especially the playful and curious family of cubs. We have seen birds of all descriptions in the full swing of raising the next generation of growing chicks. The ever-present backdrop of the ice featured throughout our voyage, whether cruising in front of an actively calving glacier or marvelling at one of the world s largest ice caps, or being lost in the endless enchantment of the sea ice. There were walks, hikes, paddles, plunges, and great companionship from a delightful bunch of fellow travellers. Thank you warmly for voyaging with us. We wish you all the best as you depart, and we hope very much to travel with you again.

29 PRINS KARLS FORLAND ARCTIC OCEAN 8 9 SJUØYANE 5 6 MOFFEN 7 LAGØYA NORDAUSTLANDET KVITØYA STORØYA Forlandsundet 2 3 Ny Ålesund Hinlopen Strait 12 SPITSBERGEN 13 Erik Eriksenstretet KONG KARLS LAND Abeløya Kongsøya BARENTSØYA Svenskøya Greenland Sea Bellsund Most northerly point of our voyage: N, E Total distance: 1,120 nautical miles Hornsund 1 21 Longyearbyen 18 Sørkapp 15 ATLANTIC OCEAN 14 EDGEØYA Freemansundet Barents Sea 1. Depart Longyearbyen 2. Lilliehöökbreen 3. Ossian Sarsfjellet 4. Danskoya first polar bear 5. Virgohamna/Smeerenburg 6. Ytre Norskøya 7. Moffen Island 8. Pack ice to find polar bears 9. Pack ice again for bears 10. Wahlenbergfjorden (polar plunge) 11. Oxford Halvøya 12. Alkefjellet 13. Pack ice at Bråsvellbreen 14. Meodden in Freemansundet 15. Dolerittneset (Edgeøya) 16. Gnålodden (Hornsund) 17. Burgerbukta (Hornsund) 18. Samarinbreen-BBQ (Hornsund) 19. Gåsbergkilen (Bellsund) 20. Ingeborgfjellet (Bellsund) 21. Longyearbyen

30 Kayaking Log BY Matt Edwards The kayak is without comparison the best one-man vessel to be found. Fridtjof Nansen KAYAKING GUIDE: Matt Edwards KAYAKERS: Cass George Ian George Corran McArthur Tina McGiffin Peter McGiffin Di McConnell John McConnnell Liz Mullineaux Phillip Scott Nathan Sugars Peter Tausig John Wenander Priska Wenander Day 1: Longyearbyen No paddle Polar Pioneer departed Longyearbyen. Day 2: Lilliefjorden Distance: 6 km Calm conditions and silvery skies for our first paddle. We left the ship and paddled along the Lilliehookbreen glacier front. As our kayaks slid through the brash ice we noticed the most amazing sound: thousands of ice pieces drifting in the small waves and colliding with one another. The glacier was exceptionally active this morning and we were treated to numerous booming calvings. A great first paddle. Ossian Sarsfjellet no paddle Strong winds, no kayaking. Zodiac landing. Day 3: Danskøya & Virgohamna Distance: 12 km We left the ship and paddled over the eastern shore of Danskøya (Danish Islands). With a whale carcass close by we were on the look out for polar bears. We took a quick look in a small bay before continuing north past the carcass. It wasn t long before we caught up to the Zodiacs who had found a sleeping bear. We spent some time observing the bear from a safe distance before continuing on. It wasn t long before we heard that another two bears had been spotted so we made our way to their location and were treated to a magnificent viewing of a mother and cub with an incredible back drop of serrated peaks and dramatic glaciers. The fun didn t stop there. We made our way over to Virgohamna where Carol guided us through the historical site. A quick paddle back to the ship which was partially interrupted by a passing walrus had us arriving just in time for well-earned lunch. Ytre Norskøya Distance: 11 km We enjoyed a wonderful circumnavigation of this northern island. Initially we were treated to a relaxing tail wind as we explored the rocky shoreline. Rounding the corner, the sea went flat calm and we took our time enjoying the dramatic scenery while basking in the glorious sunshine. With the paddlers itching for more we headed west and crossed over to the main island of Spitsbergen where we enjoyed a lovely pit stop in the sun before heading back to the ship in the most amazing conditions imaginable. Day 4: Northern pack ice No kayaking or Zodiac outing. Day 5: Northern pack ice No kayaking or Zodiac outing. Day 6: Oxfordhalvøya Distance: 8 km We left the ship and headed into the bay. Along the way we found several very attractive icebergs. The calm conditions and blue skies provided the perfect opportunity to take a few photos. With a radio call from the Zodiacs that a polar bear had been spotted we set off across the bay to investigate. It turned out to be a great sighting of a large male that had killed a bearded seal right on the shoreline. Keeping a safe distance, we were able to observe this animal for quite a while. Returning to the ship we were fortunate enough to spot our first Arctic fox as it scampered across the gravel spit. Wahlenbergfjorden Distance: 13 km We set off to explore the glacier at the northern end of the fjord. We paddled along the shore, stopping at a number of icebergs along the way. As we neared the glacier the ice became thicker but we fought our way through to reach the shore. A short walk and an easy creek crossing had us on top of a glacial moraine looking across at the impressive glacier front. Fantastic outing. Alkefjellet Distance: 7 km With the sun beaming down and a nice tail wind developing we set off to explore the bird cliffs. With about 60,000 pairs of Brunnich s guillemots nesting on the tiny ledges it was an incredible sight to paddle below this hive of activity. To add to the spectacle these nesting sites are contained in some very impressive rock formations. Towering spires loomed above us as we made our way along the shore. The wind began to strengthen and with some of the paddlers feeling the chill we decided to make our way back the ship. Amazing day in the Arctic! Day 7: East Coast of Nordaustlandet Thick fog. No kayaking or Zodiac operations Brasvellbreen Distance: 7 km Well, the waiting paid off and by early in the afternoon the fog had burnt off to reveal the spectacular glacier front. We left the ship and paddled along this towering wall of ice. We marvelled at waterfall coming straight out of the glacier and spewing water into the ocean. After a quick group photo courtesy of Robyn, we headed out into the ice floes. We tried hard to get lost in the maze of floes but didn t succeed and in the end decided that a refreshment was in order. We pulled the kayaks up onto a sturdy piece of ice and toasted to great outing.

31 Day 8: EDGEØYA Strong westerly winds. No kayaking. Zodiac landing. Kapp Lee Distance: 6 km The wind settled down just in time, as we started loading into the kayaks the sun was in full force. The swell made getting off the ship tricky but everyone did well and in no time we were heading towards shore. We weaved our way through breaking bommies and hidden rocks and pulled up on the beach. We decided a walk was in order so after checking out the huts, and watching the Walruses hauled out on the beach we continued down the shore. We stopped to pay homage to the small dead polar bear and the graveyard of walrus bones. As we headed back to the kayaks we were treated to a fantastic view across the fiord and the surrounding hills. We re-launched in calm conditions but with a healthy wind swell running. We negotiated our way past some breaking surf before making our way back to the ship. Day 9: Gnålodden Distance: 9 km A stunning paddle down the fiord with impressive views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. We hopped from one iceberg to the next and chased a large flock of barnacle geese down the shore. A pit stop was arranged at a sunny beach peppered with stranded bergy bits where we enjoyed some delicious treats and took in the incredible views. On the way home we made a landing close to the Zodiacs and were treated to a fantastic viewing of a family of Arctic foxes, with many kits playing like puppies. The small swell made for an exciting run. Burgerbukta Distance: 10 km We left the ship in near perfect conditions: no wind, sunshine and warmth. He headed deeper into the fjord, following the western shoreline. The scenery was absolutely spectacular. Huge mountainous walls loomed overhead, broken up by several glaciers and the odd scree field. We iceberg-hopped, enjoying the deep blue shades in each. At the head of the bay we were greeted by the Paierlbreen Glacier and spent several quiet minutes taking in the extraordinary scene in front of us. The paddle home was accentuated by more icebergs and a gentle tailwind. Day 10: Gåsbergkilen Distance: 7 km The conditions really turned it on for our final paddle. Flat calm, warm and periods of sunshine. We left the ship and headed over to the landing site. Upon reaching shore we took a hard-left turn and paddled along the dramatic cliff face. Kittiwakes and guillemots were very active and put on quite the display for us. Content to watch their antics, we sat in the calm waters taking in the sights, sounds and smells. We lazily continued along the shore, and just enjoyed the last few paddle strokes of the trip. A fitting way to conclude an epic journey. DISTANCE PADDLED: 104 KILOMETRES IN 11 PADDLES

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36 Bird species log Bird Species JuLY Red-throated diver X Northern fulmar X X X X X X X X X X X Pink-footed goose X X X Barnacle goose X X X Brent goose X Common eider X X X X X X X X Purple sandpiper X X X Arctic skua X X X X X X X Kittiwake with chick Great skua X X X X Glaucous gull X X X X X X X X X X X Black-legged kittiwake X X X X X X X X X X X Ivory gull X X X X Arctic tern X X X X X X X X X Brunich's guillemot X X X X X X X X X X Common guillemot X Black guillemot X X X X X X X X X X X Little auk X X X X X X Atlantic puffin X X X X X Rock ptarmigan X Snow bunting X X X X X X X Puffin Gulls Brunnich s guillemots Glaucous gull and fish Kittiwake

37 Arctic skua chasing kittiwake Kittiwakes Ivory gulls Brunnich s guillemots Arctic tern Atlantic puffin Leucistic Black guillemot Arctic skua Little auks Northern fulmar Atlantic puffin Little auks

38 Walrus Walrus Walrus Reindeer Arctic skua attacking reindeer Reindeer

39 Walrus Harbour seals Fin whale Harbour seals Humpback whale Reindeer Humpback whale

40 MAMMAL species log MAMMAL Species JuLY Arctic fox X X X X X Reindeer X X X X Polar bear X X X X X Harbour seal X Arctic fox Ringed seal X X X X Bearded seal X X X Harp seal X X X Walrus X X Humpback whale X Fin whale Minke whale X X Arctic fox Arctic fox

41 Polar bear Husky Polar bear Polar bear Polar bear

42 Polar Scurvy Grass Purple Saxifrage unidentified Mountain Saxifrage Alpine Saxifrage Tufted Saxifrage Polar Stoloniferous Saxifrage

43 unidentified Arctic Mouse-ear Moss Campion

44 Svalvard Poppy Drooping Saxifrage Alpine Bistort Bog Saxifrage

45 Crustose lichen Polar Foxtail unidentified Svalbard has 25 species of fungi

46 Expeditioners Judy Angel Christiane Delongueville Roy Hessey Tina McGiffin Carla Pecorella Mike Ward Bernie Bootle Scott Denzel Mandy Humphreys Cathy Moore Stephan Peters Susan Ward Di Bootle Chris Dwyer Steve Humphreys Liz Mullineaux Karen Povey Phoebe Wallman Alex Bryant Margie Dwyer Bjoern Koth Marek Niedzwiedzki Di Schinella Nathan Sugars Carl Bryant Cass George Meg Lorang Judy Noble Phil Scott Leigh Hess Charlotte Bryant Ian George Corran McArthur Margaret Nowak-Niedzwiedzka Doug Shields Leonie Hess Elaine Bryant Carlene Gosbell Di McConnell Chris Parkinson Martina Stange Priska Wenander Jim Clark Ken Gosbell John McConnell John Parkinson Peter Tausig Fredrik Wenander Janie Curphey Maureen Hessey Peter McGiffin Rhonda Patrick Lyn Walker

47 Expedition Team Polar Pioneer Crew PHOTO CREDITS Expedition Leader: Christian Genillard Captain: Yury Gorodnik Able Seamen: Aleksei Orlov Jim Clark Marek Niedzwiedzki Assistant Expedition Leader: Robyn Mundy Chief Mate: Maxim Makarovskiy Aleksandr (Sasha) Agafonov Scott Denzel Margaret Nowak-Niedzwiedzka Naturalist & Lecturer: Gary Miller 2nd Mate: Roman Aleksakhin Eduard Skarina Ken Gosbell Chris Parkinson Historian: Carol Knott 3rd Mate: Konstantin Ezhgurov Head Stewardess: Irina Minurova Maureen Hessey Stephan Peters Kayak Guide: Matt Edwards Radio Operator: Ilia Liamzin Stewardesses: Anastasia Dudka Steve Humphreys Karen Povey Expedition Guide: Yukka Ikonen Chief Engineer: Evgeniy Pavlov Irina Orlova Bjoern Koth Martina Stange Doctor: Ann Ward 2nd Engineer: Artur Ropotov Inna Korotkikh Meg Lorang Nathan Sugars Hotel Manager: Justine Bornholdt 3rd Engineer: Aleksei Moiseev Alina Siusiukina Corran McArthur Lyn Walker Chef: Allan Estoque Electrician: Valentin Lomachenko Evgeniya Chemiris John McConnell Ann Ward Second Chef: Herbert Cruz Boatswain: Sergei Andronov Russian Crew Chef: Liubov Andronova Gary Miller Frederick Wenander Motorman: Rollan Sydorchuk Cathy Moore Kayaking photos also Robyn Mundy provided by the kayakers Ship s log compiled by Robyn Mundy and Ann Ward Paper made from 100% recycled material.

48 Adventure With Us Antarctica & South Georgia Wild Scotland Patagonia Kimberley Coast Intimate, educational, small group voyages to some of the world s wildest and most remote destinations, aboard quality expedition vessels. Protected waterways beneath spectacular, glacier-draped mountains, penguins, seals, whales, historic sites and scientific stations. Abandoned castles, exquisite abbeys, stone age villages and haunting Neolithic relics. Breeding seals and Europe s largest seabird colonies. Breath-taking scenery of wind-swept plains, glaciated mountain ranges & turquoise lakes. Plus, local wildlife like guanaco, flamingo and more. Australia s wildest frontier boasts terracotta cliffs and ancient rock paintings. Island hop in search of turtles, crocodiles and whales. Our other destinations include: Russian Coast & Papua New Guinea.