Svalbard Ody ssey. 27 July 06 August 2018 Polar Pioneer Pioneering expedition travel to the heart of nature

Transcription

1 Svalbard Ody ssey 27 July 06 August 2018 Polar Pioneer Pioneering expedition travel to the heart of nature

2 ABOUT US Aurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild and remote places on our planet. With over 25 years experience, our small group voyages allow for a truly intimate experience with nature. Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting wildlife experiences and fascinating lectures. You ll share your adventure with a group of like-minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every opportunity for adventure and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of naturalists, historians and destination specialists are passionate and knowledgeable they are the secret to a fulfilling and successful voyage. Whilst we are dedicated to providing a trip of a lifetime, we are also deeply committed to education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations. Pioneering expedition travel to the heart of nature

3 DAY 1 Friday, 27 July 2018 LONGYEARBYEN, ISFJORD Position: 21:45 hours Course: 273 Wind Speed: 11.5 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 10.2 knots Wind Direction: S Air Temp: 9 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 6 C A gunmetal sky, patches of blue and not a breath of wind on the waters of Adventfjorden greeted those of us who flew in to Longyearbyen today. While the surrounding mountains had lost all but remnants of snow, at 78 north latitude we had well and truly arrived in the high Arctic. Those who arrived earlier, a day up their sleeve, may have had the chance to spot Svalbard reindeer grazing on the slopes, while the fjord bustled with small flocks of guillemots, Arctic terns, kittiwakes and barnacle geese. There was just enough time in the afternoon to gain some sights of this unique frontier town residents with a rifle slung over a shoulder, the polar museum with its impressive displays, the sledging dogs, and other highlights of a town first established for its rich seams of coal, the crumbling infrastructure of which can be seen littered across the slopes. But even back in the early 1900s European vessels brought well-to-do tourists to this isolated coastline to experience adventure in the Arctic. Now, Longyearbyen houses a university and its main industry has transitioned into modern tourism adapted to both the summer months and the long polar night. By 1700 we were at the busy pier, ready to begin our Arctic adventure. Here, Robyn, Kathrine and Toby ticked us off lists and snapped a photo of two, then into Zodiacs we stepped for our first brisk ride out to Polar Pioneer, anchored in the fjord. We clambered up the gangway where the friendly Aurora team directed us to our cabins not that many needed help finding their way as over 30 of the 51 onboard had travelled with Aurora Expeditions in the past. Expedition Leader Gary Miller then brought us together to talk about our voyage, our sturdy ship, to introduce the rest of the 11 Aurora team., and to address all important fundamentals of safety at sea. The sound of seven-short-one-long from the ship s horn was our cue to grab bulky orange lifejackets and gather at the muster stations. We soon discovered the ambience and intimacy of a polar class lifeboat. Soon after 1900 we upped anchor and turned our nose out of Adventfjorden, passing Longyearbyen s renowned Doomsday Seed Vault accessed via a 120 metre-long tunnel built into the mountainside where the temperature remains a constant -18 C. We felt our first rock and roll as we moved into Isfjorden and steered a westward course out toward the northwest coast. A delicious first dinner together prepared by chefs Al and Bert, a kayak briefing and gumboot fitting, and the weary travellers were ready for rest.

4 DAY 2 Saturday, 28 July 2018 LILLIEHÖÖKBREEN, 14 JULIBUKTA Position: 20:50 hours Course: 340 Wind Speed: 16 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 11.8 knots Wind Direction: S Air Temp: 7 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 5.5 C To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and drinks sunbeams. John Muir Today s quote of the day rang true with not one but two glorious glaciers, the first in the morning at Lilliehöökbukta, followed by 14 Julibukta in the afternoon. While our day was overcast, the diffused light and striking shafts of sunlight on the glaciers simply added to the atmosphere and the blues of the ice. After breakfast, Expedition Leader Gary and Naturalist Roger conducted safety and environmental briefings, then it was down the gangway and into Zodiacs for a cruise at Lilliehöökbreen. Much of the bay was choked with brash ice, making it hard going for our small rubber craft. Dotted on small bergs and floes were groups of kittiwakes, while Arctic terns patrolled the slushy waters in search of a meal. We turned off our engines to the sounds of the fjord, hearing its continual snap, crackle and pop as millions of ancient air bubbles burst from millions of shards of ancient ice. At the glacier, patience won out and we were treated to a thunderous calving. Kittiwakes immediately targeted tasty fish and crustacean morsels churned to the surface by the cascade of ice. By mid-afternoon we were off once again, this time at 14 Julibukta. The kayakers were ferried ashore and soon the flotilla set off in their brightly colourful craft to explore coastline and glacier. The shore party took the opportunity to cruise beneath bird cliffs where groups of guillemots nested. A large boulder was home to a pair of glaucous gulls with their enormous fledgling chick, but the stars of the show were the puffins nesting high up on cliffs and entertaining us with flybys as they headed out to sea or returned to craggy perches. Offshore, ringed seals occasionally popped up their heads to check us out, reluctant to linger. Further along the slopes, Svalbard reindeer were making the most of the relatively lush vegetation, fattening up while the summer growth lasts. The sky was patterned with northern fulmars that wheeled about the craggy cliffs where thousands of their companions nested. As we soon discovered, wherever a bird cliff exists in Svalbard there is likely to be a family of fox dining off the proceeds. One little Arctic fox, dressed in his tawny brown summer coat, trotted across the tundra with the remains of a dearly departed bird clasped firmly in his hold. Onshore we split into two groups, the first taking a walk along the cobbled beachfront toward the glacier, the second choosing a route over undulating tundra to a small enclave of hanging garden, where mountain sorrell, chickweed and moss campion were among an array of wildflowers. Back onboard, Captain s Welcome Drinks offered an opportunity to meet our good Captain Alexandr Sasha Evgenov, and to enjoy Jen and Kath s delicious punch over a leisurely chat with shipmates. GLACIATED FJORDS Glaciated fjords are among the loudest marine environments on earth! Air bubbles popping from ice floating in the fjords make a sizzling sound equivalent to being underwater in a downpour. In Alaska, scientists have observed that seals use this naturally noisy environment to hide from their main predators, the orcas.

5 DAY 3 Sunday, 29 July 2018 SMEERENBURG, HAMILTONBUKTA Position: 21:15 hours Course: 78 Wind Speed: 02 knots Barometer: hpa Latitude: N Speed: 10.3 knots Wind Direction: WSW Air Temp: 4 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 5.5 C A localised wind blew a little too vigorously for our morning paddlers; instead, we launched all Zodiacs to explore the north-western reaches of Spitsbergen. Our ship was anchored at Smeerenburgfjorden, but outside our warm cocoon the day felt frigid with wind chill-- it was time to don every available thermal layer. Six Zodiacs sped across the channel between Amsterdamøya and Danskøya amid lashings of spray. We rounded a small islet, home to a bygone trapper s hut, and came into sheltered waters where a group of harbour seals were hauled out along the rocky foreshore. Quietly we eased close enough for the photographers to snaffle some shots. Adjacent to this cove is Virgohamna, the launch site of several attempts to reach the north pole by balloon and airship. The afternoon at Hamiltonbukta could not have been a more welcome contrast. The sun shone down from a piercing blue sky, the wind eased and we spent the most glorious afternoon cruising by guillemot cliffs then landing at a sandy beach to relax in the sun and admire the surround of glaciers. Hamiltonbukta sparkled with Arctic beauty. Our kayaking fleet looked fantastic, the kayaks a colourful splash against a band of brash ice and a grand icescape backdrop. The paddlers were befriended by a young bearded seal, as were Zodiacs as we cruised over to a photogenic berg and then explored the coastline. We had numerous sightings of eider ducks at nearby islands, and passed by rafts of guillemots on our way back to the ship. A big, bold and beautiful Arctic Sunday! Across at Smeerenburg we gathered together and walked ever so slowly as one, to gain close up views of three walrus slumbering on the sandy point. Two walrus patrolled the water nearby. How do walrus compare weight-wise to Antarctic elephant seals? Female walrus weigh up to 700kgs, males up to 2 tons, while female elephant seals weigh up to 800 kgs and males up to 3 tons. We took a stroll around the 11 historic whale blubber ovens, and saw the remains of 16th century red and tan bricks, along with asphalt mounds, being a conglomerate of sand and gravel glued with whale oil. Over 200 men lived and worked at Smeerenburg during its 16th century hayday. Eventually the cold got the better of us and we headed back to our warm and welcoming ship. ARCTIC WEIGH-INS: Arctic fox: Ringed seals: Harp seals: Bearded seals: Svalbard reindeer: Females: Males: Polar bears: Females: Males: 3 4 kgs kgs kgs kgs kgs kgs kgs kgs

6 DAY 4 Monday, 30 July 2018 FAKSEVAGEN, ALKEFJELLET Position: 21:00 hours Course: 360 Wind Speed: 17 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 10.5 knots Wind Direction: SSE Air Temp: 7 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 6 C Another day in Paradise for hikers and paddlers alike. Straight after breakfast seven of our kayakers headed off with Toby for a sublime paddle in still waters, exploring Lomfjorden and tiptoeing beyond the point to see what lay further afield. They made acquaintance with a Norwegian yacht at anchor, whose residents were exploring the high slopes in search of ancient fossils. On the opposite shore we split into two groups. The long walkers joined Roger, Ryan and Matt, and soon disappeared over the hills to gain spectacular views of the glacier, and to stretch the leg muscles with a 6-kilometre hike over spongy tundra. The medium walkers stopped to smell the flowers, or at least to identify some of Svalbard s iconic tundra flora: the brilliant pink of moss campion, carpets of mountain avens, the dainty white flowers of bell heather, mouse ear chickweed, buttercups and saxifrage. The long walkers spotted some delicate fungi, all these tundra plants taking their nutrients from reindeer and geese droppings. The hikers also spotted ptarmigan in their camo summer plumage. Ptarmigan are the only birds who remain in Svalbard for the winter. Of those that migrate south, the northern fulmar is first to return at the end of the long polar night. relaxing afternoon of slumber and barely opened an eye to Zodiacs and kayaks as we gingerly approached for close-up views. Our attention turned to the cliffs themselves a primordial landscape with craggy 300-metre high stacs and towers whose ledges were crammed with guillemots, many rearing small chicks. The cliffs were high density living with the air a theatre of wings with birds outbound to forage or incoming birds bringing home the day s meal to their small chick. Our own chilly journey along the base of the cliffs was sensory overload: the sight, sound and smell of this immense avian colony all with the singular goal of raising a chick. The thought of such effort made the sight of glaucous gulls nabbing a chick all the more sobering. Roger s Zodiac spotted a fox patrolling the slopes beneath the cliffs while several Zodiacs had a fleeting glimpse of a minke whale. Back onboard we congregated in Kath and Jen s cosy bar for a recap: our naturalists spoke about polar bears, guillemots and walrus, while Gary triggered memories of our first wondrous days of outings. It was also a day for fox, with several spotted by the various groups, while Robyn s Zodiac group watch a lone Svalbard reindeer. The boys in the galley put on another tasty lunch after which we arrived at Alkefjellet, meaning Auk Cliffs. And what should we spy other than tens of thousands of Brunnich s guillemots? Yes! Our first polar bear, being a mother with two cubs. The family savoured a

7 DAY 5 Tuesday, 31 July 2018 BENGTSSENBUKTA, KARL XII ØY Position: 20:55 hours Course: 120 Wind Speed: 8 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 9.9 knots Wind Direction: ENE Air Temp: 10 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 3 C Now comfortably versed with the pattern of the day, we layered up and were raring to go straight after breakfast. At Bengtssenbukta in Ripfjorden we cruised beneath kittiwake cliffs where reindeer grazed on lush slopes. Our ride took us to the corner of the glacier where we beached the Zodiacs and set off for a good walk to the higher reaches for views of the glacier and bay. We passed by the desiccated remains of a polar bear but it wasn t until the walk back down that we noticed a second dead bear just metres from our route. Chances are that in this far northerly area of the archipelago, at least one bear died from lack of food. The paddlers had a magic morning in mirror calm conditions, exploring the coastline. Robyn s Zodiac cruisers zoomed across to a second glacier, passing by more kittiwake cliffs with several reindeer perched precariously to access the lush vegetation. Back onboard, a line of 24 half naked lunatics chose to hurl themselves off a perfectly good ship into the frigid waters of the fjord. There was all manner of entrance but no one lingered in the water, and kayaking guide Toby was last seen circuiting the ship on his stand-up paddle board while others beelined for the sauna. their own territory and keeping a good distance from every other bear. Perhaps the bears arrived here early in the season with southward drifting pack ice, finding themselves stranded as the season s ice melted, now with limited prospects of food until the ocean freezes over again in late autumn. Will the bears survive their summer on the meagre spoils of scavenging? There was a sense of despair in seeing one bear chew on green plastic flotsam, while another bear high up on the slopes pawed at clumps of nutrient-rich vegetation. Equally, Karl XII was home to new life with kittiwakes rearing chicks, and a large group of walrus in the water surrounding young calves, along with sightings of puffins, a bearded seal, and even a great skua. Flocks of eider ducks relaxed on the beach or rafted up on water. We passed by an automatic weather station, and a spit littered with large driftwood logs. All too soon the hour came to return to our beloved ship for another scrumptious dinner prepared by our tireless galley team. We motored for several hours toward Karl XII Øy, our most northerly point at N, with time to hear from Roger who gave a fascinating talk on the history of Svalbard. By late afternoon we were in position for a Zodiac cruise at Karl XII Øy. Excitement mounted when two polar bears were spotted on the island. The kayakers headed out and the rest of us piled into Zodiacs for a circumnavigation. Not two but four bears in total, each staking out NORWEGIAN aust berg(et) breen buk(ta) by(en) dal(en) fjell(et) hytte kapp nes(et) nord øy(a) pynt sør topp(en) vest vik(a) ENGLISH east mountain, hill glacier bay, bight town valley mountain, hill hut cape naze, point north island point south peak west creek, cove

8 DAY 6 Wednesday, 1 August 2018 KVITØYA: KRAEMERPYNTEN, ANDREENESET Position: 20:00 hours Course: 233 Wind Speed: 14 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 10.3 knots Wind Direction: E Air Temp: 8 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 1 C Bears, bears, bears! came the call at Kraemerpynten, the easternmost point of Kvitøya. Zodiacs and kayaks nuzzled close in to the cobbled shore for good views of these powerful mammals; however, there were distractions aplenty with walrus and their calves popping up all around the Zodiacs some a little too close for comfort! While only a sliver of exposed rock extends from Kvitøya s mighty ice dome, there was no shortage of highlights to be seen, including the ice cap itself which covers 99% of the 700 sq km island. Kvitøya translates to White Island, classified as dead ice desert as here vegetation is scarce, mainly in the form of lichen and moss. Paddlers and Zodiacs wound their way around the tip of the point and through brash ice where another fine bear presented itself, along with more inquisitive walrus. A favourite highlight of the morning was the bear spotted angling down across the ice shelf. We positioned ourselves to gain top views as the bear parked himself down on a shelf of ice just metres above the water. The paparazzi went wild with cameras on motor drive, and occasional flurries as camera cards filled and batteries depleted. By late afternoon we had motored to Andreeneset on Kvitøya s western coast and here, with reports of bears and walrus making it impossible to land, we headed out for a look see in Zodiacs. This southern area was where a mother bear and her two cubs lay sleeping, while just offshore, a rocky outcrop was home to a hefty haulout of walrus, the largest and most social seal species in the Arctic. Walrus spend their year in the same region but in winter move to polynyas areas of perpetually open water. Between foraging trips they may rest for up to eleven days. Andreeneset is renowned as the site that Solomon Andree s party walked to after their balloon Örnen (Eagle) crashed on sea ice during an attempt to reach the North Pole. With zero hope of being found, the stranded party survived on Kvitøya for only weeks, evidenced by their diaries. Thirty years passed before a Norwegian expedition, enroute to Franz Josef Land to build a weather station, chanced upon the grisly campsite, solving the mystery of the disappearance. Kittiwakes dotted the surrounding bergy bits while Arctic terns dived for small morsels. The sky itself was pure Arctic light with a palette of greys and blues edged amber as a sunrise across the southern sky. Back onboard we sat down to a warming lunch and then to the lecture room for Roger s informative presentation on Arctic birds. FIRST AIRCRAFT QUESTS FROM SVALBARD TO NORTH POLE Andrée (Sweden, ), hot air balloon, crashed on the ice, eventually died on Kvitøya; Wellman (USA, 1906, 1907, 1909), airship, failed with technical problems; Amundsen (Norway, 1925), sea plane from Ny Ålesund. Experienced technical failure at 88 north, returned safely; Byrd (USA, 1926), plane from Ny Ålesund to North Pole. Made it safely back but claim disputed; Amundsen (1926), airship over the North Pole, crash landed in Alaska and survived; Wilkins/Eielson (USA, 1928), flew in a Vega plane from Barrow, Alaska to Spitsbergen. Landed in snowstorm at entrance of Isfjord; Nobile (Italy, 1928), successfully flew to the Pole, surveyed large areas of the Arctic Ocean. On return, Nobile crashed on the ice, resulting in a large rescue operation in which Amundsen and his pilot were killed.

9 DAY 7 Thursday, 2 August 2018 BRÅSVELLBREEN, BJØRNSUND Position: 00:00 hours Course: 119 Wind Speed: 16 knots Barometer: hpa & steady Latitude: N Speed: 6 knots Wind Direction: ESE Air Temp: 01 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 02 C Through mist and spindrift emerged Bråsvellbreen, the longest glacial front in the northern hemisphere. Located on the southern coast of Nordaustland, the second largest island in the Svalbard archipelago, the climate here is regarded as Svalbard s cold side, shielded from the influence of the Atlantic by the island of Spitsbergen, and exposed to the ice and cold of the Arctic Ocean. The plummeting air and water temperatures over the last days attests to this, being several degrees colder than when we started out at Longyearbyen. In this region the landscape is barren, and flowering plants are scarce. But by comparison the sea is particularly productive, sustaining large numbers of seabirds. Unlike the kittiwakes and northern fulmars who still thrive in frigid conditions, we rugged up with every layer we owned for our 4-nautical mile Zodiac cruise and paddle along the phenomenal 190-kilometre Bråsvellbreen Brå being Norwegian for sudden, svell translating to swell and breen meaning glacier. In the late 1930s the glacier was named for its pronounced advance, a so-called surge particular to a percentage of glaciers around Svalbard. Our kayakers did a mighty job angling across a turbulent ocean to Polar Pioneer then bobbing in the waves while the ship repositioned to provide a lee. Soon we were all safely onboard and it was warm showers and hot cuppas all round. We motored further west along Nordaustland to Torrellneset but by afternoon the wind had risen, while rain fell and mist closed in. Plans A and B were put to rest and instead we opted for a glacier presentation by Gary and a scenic ship cruise through Bjørnsundet. Another tasty dinner was had (thank you, Al, Bert, Kathrine, Alina and Inna), then an eager turnout for the Arctic Quiz, mastered by the good Doctor Roger, and Ryan, the good Doctorin-the-making. All teams performed admirably while our good ship wound its way southward for our morning destination in the south-east corner of the archipelago. Flocks of kittiwakes foraged around the base of the 30-metre high ice cliffs where currents surged, while fellow birds perched high along the top, patiently awaiting a calving. In the wake of the Zodiacs, our hardy kayakers diminished to small dots against the towering cliffs, but still took opportunities to admire the colours and textures of recently calved bergs. Despite jiggling in our seats and clapping mittened hands, the cold finally made its way to the bone, and no one objected when we turned the Zodiacs homeward. Most took the longer sheltered route back to the ship, while one Zodiac chose the direct line, its cheery occupants doused with icy spray so as to savour the full Arctic experience.

10 DAY 8 Friday, 3 August 2018 SUNDNESET, KAP LEE Position: 22:00 hours Course: 209 Wind Speed: 17 knots Barometer: hpa & rising Latitude: N Speed: 12.4 knots Wind Direction: ENE Air Temp: 01 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 06 C Our plans for a morning landing were put to rest, not by poor weather, but by those all-toofrequent polar bears who decided our landing site at Kapp Waldburg was just the place to spend their morning. Hmm. Gary announced Plan B and off we went to nearby Sundneset. Here we stretched our legs with a wonderful walk around a lake where Barnacle geese and long-tailed ducks were in residence, along with eiders, red-throated divers and plenty of snow buntings with small chicks. The circuit of the lake was not without misadventure when Malcolm inadvertently stepped into a bog, finding himself rather alarmingly attached. Those who rendered assistance quickly found themselves in the same sinking predicament but thankfully, with the help of fast thinking and a found length of wood, all the muddy victims were extricated and continued on their merry way, albeit a little more warily. Robyn spotted a bear several kilometres away on a far shore., but with Mr Bear happy to remain at a great distance, the kayakers took the opportunity to paddle around the shoreline for close-up views. On return to the ship an impressive current of 4 or 5 knots gushed by the ship, making the gangway a lively event. As the kayakers approached the ship, they found themselves in a Herculean battle of brute strength and determination versus this formidable force of nature. The paddlers gave it their all, inching closer, while an eager group of spectators on the back deck, including Russian crew, bellowed rousing cries of encouragement. One by one the slender little vessels came alongside and were secured by Matt and Verne, their occupants hauled none too gracefully into the waiting Zodiac. It felt mighty good to clamber up that rope ladder and reunite with the mother ship! Our afternoon offered another big walk at Kapp Lee. While we had expected a haulout of walrus, instead the two groups of walkers, and the kayakers, were treated to equally fine highlights: Roger, Ryan and Peter s hikers headed for giddying heights, rewarded with gobsmacking views of the valley. Gary and Robyn s group spent close-up time with a reindeer grazing on the lushest tundra to date, then purple sandpipers tottering along the foreshore. A Bravo to the kayakers who discovered a fox den where one small fox was snoozing out in the open, his brush curled around his snout, keeping one eye on we onlookers but not at all perturbed by our presence. What a place! What a day! We relived our adventures of the day and more with a predinner recap in the bar led by Roger.

11 DAY 9 Saturday, 4 August 2018 HORNSUND: SAMARINBREEN, GNÅLODDEN, BURGERBUKTA Position: 21:30 hours Location: At anchor, Burgerbukta Wind Speed: 12 knots Barometer: hpa & falling Latitude: N Wind Direction: NE Air Temp: 6 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 1 C At 0600 our Yoga students, under the attentive tuition of teacher Alyona, stood in harmony on the bow, wobbling bellies and inhaling crisp Arctic air as Polar Pioneer motored into Hornsund under the effects of a local katabatic. By breakfast time we had arrived at Samarinbreen deep in the fjord, ready for a morning Zodiac cruise. The entire fleet of kayakers were out on the water along with new recruit Dani. A perfect opportunity for a group photo of the colourful flotilla in front of what seemed a benign glacier. Little could we guess what was in store... Zodiacs and paddlers made their acquaintance with a bearded seal kicking back on an ice floe. This hefty seal with its dog-like snout and long curly whiskers obliged by allowing us all to gain close up views. Then came the cry from Gary s Zodiac: Beluga whales! We hot-tailed it to the general area where several Zodiacs caught glimpses of a mother with her small grey calf. Not until adulthood do the Belugas change colour, and not until maturity at around six years of age do they become totally white. Many of us spent time with motors turned off, watching and listening as the occasional piece of glacial ice plopped to the water. Suddenly, with an alarming crack, a large slab of ice plummeted to the ocean in a plume of spray. It didn t stop there. As if in slow motion the entire wall of ice perhaps 100 metres long parted from the glacier and plunged to the water, issuing a surge laden with tons of churning ice. Soon half the bay was awash with brash ice. What a show! Gary remarked that the calving was amongst his top five! For Ryan, the excitement of the glacier competed only with the thrill of his first Ivory gull, another of the Arctic s pure white creatures only seen around glaciers and ice. Our afternoon at Gnålodden had grown windy but we went ashore to a small trapper s hut where Robyn shared the story of Wanny Woldstad, Svalbard s first female trapper who, with her hunting partner Anders Saeterdal, worked out of this tiny satellite hut in the 1930s, trapping fox and hunting polar bear. The mountain goats joined Toby and Peter to scale steep slopes to the base of the birds cliffs. Gnålodden translates to Nagging, thanks to the endless throng from kittiwakes that nest on the mountain. Others walked the gravel beach or over spongy tundra slopes to the cross on the headland; some sheltered from wind to absorb the sights of this mighty fjord. Evening time found our good ship at Burgerbukta where we gathered on the back deck for an A-1 BBQ. Thanks to Al and Bert, Kath and Jen, and stewardesses Inna and Alena for all their hard work. Good company, delectable food, party hats and the beat of ABBA and The Village People soon set the dance floor in full swing to complete an outstanding Arctic day. TRAPPING DAYS: FOX TRAPS These simple yet effective constructions comprise a slatted wooden frame set on a rock and piled with over 20 kgs of boulders. The frame was propped up at an angle, supported by wooden sticks that lock together. One stick was speared with bait, preferably ptarmigan. When a fox took the bait and disturbed the props, the trap would instantly collapse, leaving one squashed fox beneath a weight of stones. With this method, the prized white winter coat of the fox was preserved without having to shoot and damage the pelt. In summer, the coat of the Arctic fox ranges from chocolate brown to fawn.

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14 DAY 10 Sunday, 5 August 2018 BELLSUND: RECHERCHEFJORD, VÅRSOLBUKTA Position: Latitude: Longitude: 22:00 hours N E Course: 66.5 Speed: 12.5 knots Wind: calm (foggy!) Barometer: hpa & steady Air Temp: 9 C Sea Temp: 6 C Recherchefjord on the southern side of Bellsund made the perfect place for a morning outing for both Zodiacs and paddlers. On a still and balmy morning we made our way into the calm lagoon created by a bar of terminal moraine from the receding glacial front. We meandered around ice floes until we found one with our name on it. Those who were game piled out of Zodiacs and clambered onto ice! A ringed seal made an appearance and even followed Gary s Zodiac for a time as we motored across to the end of the glacier. Enroute we spied a handsome bearded seal resting on an ice floe, then it was all ashore to take a walk on the glacier. The very first Svalbard wintering of Europeans was most likely at Recherchefjord when in 1630 eight whalers were accidentally left behind. Somehow they managed to survive the long polar night. But it was a French expedition in 1838 aboard the Recherche that gave the fjord its name. The chefs put on a delicious ploughman s lunch with barely a moment s downtime afterward before our afternoon landing at Vårsolbukta. Here, thousands of Little Auks inhabit rocky crevices in the scree slopes. We watched swarms of these tiny birds wheel out to sea, circle around and return to their nest sites. The long walkers had a delightful stroll over lush tundra to the old huts, with many Svalbard reindeer in top condition grazing on the greenery. The group were lucky enough to spot a pod of Belugas offshore but it was the five kayakers who had the biggest treat when three Belugas surfaced right beside the craft! These small white whales can reach lengths of 4.5 metres with the bulls weighing up to 1,500 kgs. In Svalbard they feed on fish and squid. It was simply wonderful to spend an afternoon in sunshine and soak up the tranquility of the polar summer. The medium walkers also spent time with reindeer grazing and resting at close quarters. The two Davids relished their time with the Little Auks, then discovered a group of six purple sandpipers dottering along the gravel shoreline. On the return walk an Arctic fox appeared and trotted around the walkers, keeping us in his sights before darting off to new adventures. Back onboard we turned our tags for the final time for this voyage, then gathered in the Bar for Captain s Farewell Drinks. Captain Sasha wished us well, then it was time for thank yous, along with the handing out of certificates, pins, patches and Polar Plunge teeshirts. We sat down to a superb dinner of lamb and duly showed our appreciation when Gary brought Al, Bert, Inna and Elena out to each dining room to thank them for their fabulous catering efforts. Well done, Team! By midnight we were pulling in to the dock at Longyearbyen. In one sense it seems an age since we left Longyearbyen yet we are aware of how rapidly these 10 days have passed. At the same time we made the most of every waking moment and experienced a diversity of Arctic wildlife, landscape and sensations. For those who are sadly leaving us today, it has been a delight to share this remarkable corner of the planet with you. The Aurora team wish you safe travels and hope that our travel paths realign again someday.

15 DAY 11 Monday, 6 August 2018 LONGYEARBYEN Position: 06:00 hours Location: Docked at Gammelkaia Wind Speed: 7 knots Barometer: hPa Latitude: N (Old Pier), Longyearbyen Wind Direction: NE Air Temp: 6 C Longitude: E Sea Temp: 4 C Our esteemed EL is named Gary Good grief, what a load he must carry But he doesn t go mental He stays calm and gentle He s the one all the girls want to marry! Roger knows every bird From Svalbard to Antarctic Heard Penguin or guillemot He knows the lot His knowledge is truly absurd. And our thanks to Kathrine and Jenny Who take care of our needs, which are many Their skills at the bar Exceed others by far And they don t even charge us a penny! Peter s the ship s MD Who takes care of us all, while at sea But he s a versatile fella Who s great at the tiller Taking Zodiacs from point A to point B. There s Ryan with his beautiful smile As wide as a country mile He learned all our names By playing app games With our photos he put on file. From breakfast to dinner The food is a winner Thanks to chefs Bert and Allan They deserve a medallion But not for helping us get any thinner! And is there anything Robyn can t do? We re in awe of her, through and through She s incredibly able Calm, steady and stable And writes up the Puffin Post too. To the kayakers, Toby and Matt We all take off our hat They re experts with a paddle On any craft they can straddle Painted, rounded or flat. To the Captain and Crew Our sincere thanks to you For making our trip On this great little ship The best we could hope to do. BY SUZIE LEIS

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17 KAYAKING LOG BY MATT EDWARDS AND TOBY STORY KAYAKING GUIDE: Matt Edwards and Toby Story KAYAKERS: Carmel Barbagallo Jim Dhaeze Adrienne Kirby Maree Wilkins Jocelyn Bowden Bill Dumigan Peter Ormond Anna Yerbury Di Byrne Alex Duncan Linda Petrusa Anthony Carter Sarah Duncan Verne Smith Robin Carter Christine Innes Marcel van Rooyen The kayak is without comparison the best one-man vessel to be found. Fridtjof Nansen DAY 1: LONGYEARBYEN, ISFJORDEN Embarkation on Polar Pioneer; Kayak briefing and kit-out DAY 2: LILLIHÖÖKBREEN Timed out; Zodiac cruised in dry suits. JULY GLACIER Distance: 12 km With short chop sloshing against the side of the ship we used the Zodiacs to transport us to the calm shore for our first outing in the kayaks. After a brief landing to put our feet on the ground of Svalbard we separated into two paddling groups, one with Matt to paddle directly to the puffin cliffs and one with Toby to paddle closer to the glacier face. After weaving through some small bergy-bits, Matt s group paddled along the cliff edge, snapping photos from their bobbing kayaks as puffins swooped and dove around them. The group with Toby paddled on smooth waters towards the glacier, moving slowly and marvelling at the many shapes and colours of ice. After listening to the cracks and groans of the glacier they made their way through the brash ice to the puffin cliffs before returning to the ship for a rugged re-entry. DAY 3: SMEERENBERG Too windy for paddling; Zodiac cruised instead. HAMILTONBUKTA Distance: 10 km Especially for the kayakers, the captain anchored the ship out of the glacial winds blowing from Hamiltonbukta. Following close to the coast, the kayakers made their way under cliffs crammed with nesting Brunnich s Guillemots and into the bay. Passing the Zodiac groups on a narrow spit in the sun, the brightly coloured kayaks made for great photos amongst the bobbing glacial ice. Sticking to the deep waters, the kayak group paddled towards the towering glacier face before winding through narrow gaps between the low granite islands. The winds increased ever so slightly giving the group the opportunity to surf back to the ship. DAY 4: FAKSEVAGEN Distance: 10 km While some chose to walk the tundra in Faksevagen, a small group of paddlers birthday girl Linda included took to the milky calm waters. Following the cliffy shore into the open waters of Lomfjorden, the kayakers eventually landed on a cobbled beach to celebrate Linda s birthday. While Verne collected several kayak loads of plastic from the shore, the fog rolled in and the kayakers took to the water again. Back in Faksevagen the group paddled past the mouth of braided streams with numerous eider ducks and their chicks floating on the silty waters. The fog cleared and just as the group was returning to the ship two Arctic fox cubs were spotted playing with a couple of ptarmigan. A fitting way to end a lovely paddle. ALKEFJELLET Distance: 10 km It was all hands to the kayaks as a female polar bear and her cubs were sighted at the base of the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. The group bobbed gently beside the shore, watching the mother and cubs snooze ashore, likely after a feed of eggs and or guillemot chicks. Despite the light headwind the kayakers made good time along the cliff edge and even found a couple of narrow gaps between the cliff and the sea stacks to paddle through. With thousands of Brunnich s Guillemots wheeling above it was surprising that only Toby received a lucky dollop of guano on his head. At the end of the sea cliffs, a waterfall tumbled down the ice, churning the sea brown and providing a steady current for the kayakers to play in until the ship moved into the pickup position. DAY 5: BENGSTENBUKTA Distance: 9 km Once again the ship dropped us in a convenient position beside some steep crags with kittiwakes soaring along the face. The group quickly made their way towards the shore and paddled past richly textured ice, starkly contrasted with the dull grey sky. Paddling deeper into the bay, the glacier-face slowly came into view and, in a rare moment of cerebral activity, Matt decided to lead a small group ashore to climb to the edge of the glacier. The rest of the group opted to stay on the water and paddled slowly along the face of the glacier. As the group moved back towards the ship a tiny bearded seal pup was spotted on a piece of ice. With barely a sound the kayaks drifted slowly towards the pup until it dove into the water, not to escape but as it turned out to take a closer look. The pup bobbed around close to the kayaks and continued to peek his head from behind the ice as we paddled back to the ship. KARL XII ØY Distance: 7 km The sea was silky calm as the kayak group set out on an attempted circumnavigation of Karl XII Island. Despite the distance of nearly 40kms from the mainland of Nordaustland, the island was reported to be the summer resting place of several polar bears as well as a haulout for walrus. Within minutes of leaving the ship a curious walrus popped his whiskers out of the water near the kayaks. Paddling on, more walrus were spotted at a distance and the kayak group huddled up beside the Zodiacs to observe the polar bears ambling and snoozing ashore. Rounding the last point of Karl XII Øy a small group of walrus took an interest in the kayakers and began tailing them at a distance through the water. Huddling together, the kayakers, led by Peter and Verne, made a swift return to the ship. DAY 6: KVITØYA: KRAEMERPYNTEN Distance: 6.5 km The kayaking fleet was again greeted with calm waters and, despite the small area of ice free coast on Kvitøya, polar bears were quickly sighted on the rocky shore. As the kayakers moved along the coast an inquisitive walrus popped up to investigate the Zodiacs. Following the coast past small water spouts flowing from the ice-cap, another bear peeked over the edge of the ice then posed as kayaks and Zodiacs quietly watched until it rose and wandered slowly away. Moving further along the shore past yet another bear, the kayak group quickly spotted more walrus in several directions, encouraging a cautious return to the safety of the ship. KVITØYA: ANDREENESET No paddling due to walrus in the water.

18 KAYAKING LOG (CONTINUED) DAY 7: BRASVELLBREEN Distance: 8.5 km It was a swift and exhilarating launch from Polar Pioneer as the ship drifted broadside to the wind near the edge of the longest ice cliff in the northern hemisphere. Once all were happily on the water the kayakers took shelter from the biting winds behind a drifting iceberg and prepared themselves for a swift downwind paddle. After paddling with a cross-wind for some time, the group rounded a sharp bend in the ice cliff, giving way to a long stretch of sheltered waters. A ringed seal popped up to inspect the kayaks as the group paddled towards hundreds of kittiwakes feeding around the upwelling of waters, presumably from an under ice river. Further along the cliff, a stiff tailwind heralded the return to the ship and the conclusion to a wonderful paddle in a unique environment. PM: No paddling due to windy conditions. DAY 8: SUNDNESET Distance: 10 km Aided by a stiff tail wind we lazily made our way along the rocky shore while admiring the basalt columns and textured clouds. Rounding a series of small points, we enjoyed fantastic sights of large flocks of eider ducks and pink footed geese. As we rounded the final point and entered a large bay we noticed a large white object on the adjacent shore. After much speculation we decided to investigate. Half way across we confirmed that it was in fact a bear. We were able to get quite close as she slowly and curiously made her way along the shore. With time running out we retraced our route back to the ship. Entering the main Strait it quickly became apparent that the current had increased and was unfortunately not running in the preferred direction. We eddy hopped as much as we could before having to commit to a crossing back to the ship. It was tough and slow going but everyone dug deep and with some encouraging cheers from a rapid forming peanut gallery watch from the back deck, we all made it back to the ship. A great outing and a true bonding experience. KAPP LEE Distance: 6 km The wind completely died for our afternoon paddle. Leaving the ship in glassy conditions we headed over to the large sandy beach just east of the Kapp Lee trapper huts. We decided to make a landing to get a closer look at the fascinating history of the area. After checking out the remains of an old Pomor Hut we ambled down a steep little slope and had a look at the newer establishments. The 1904 Norwegian Trappers Cabin had everyone in awe at the toughness and tenacity of the men who called this very small cabin home during the trapping era. We went for a short stroll along the beach to see the remains of the hundreds of walruses, the nose of each having been cut off to extract the valuable tusks. Returning to the kayaks, some delicious refreshments suddenly emerged and we toasted to a great trip. While marking his territory, guide Toby stumbled across a sleeping Arctic Fox and we all clambered up a small hill to get a better look. Paddling along the glacial wall a Bearded Seal was spotted on an ice floe. Going in for a closer look we bashed our way through the brash ice and were able to get quite close before it silently slipped into the water. Numerous small calvings were observed as we continued along the glacial wall, but it wasn t until the we reached the end of the glacier that the mother of all calvings released. Being a safe distance away we watched as a series of enormous chunks of ice plunged into the watery depths, producing an incredible boom and cracking noise. We watched as the resulting waves slid under our kayaks, thankful that we were nowhere near the calving but also grateful to have witnessed it. GNÅLODDEN Strong winds, no kayaking. Zodiac landing. DAY 10: RECHERCHEFJORD Distance: 7.5 km We were again greeted with glassy calm conditions for our outing to the ice filled lagoon in front of Recherche Glacier. A strong current at the mouth of the lagoon made for a dynamic entry but once inside we were greeted with tranquil paddling amongst the grounded ice. As we paddled towards the glacier face, Matt spotted a lone ringed seal which came to investigate our kayaks. The group sat in silence as the seal flitted from one kayak to the next and in the background the only noise was the popping of ice and the low rumble of water gushing out of the glacier. After some more meandering through ice, we took advantage of the falling tide and headed out on the swift flowing current back to the ship. VÅRSOLBUKTA Distance: 8 km Despite windy conditions and a stiff current, a hardy team of kayakers took to the waters for a final paddle of the trip. We ferry glided to the shelter of the shore and found a few narrow gaps in the skerries to paddle through. Feeding the kayakers masochistic urge we beat our way into the wind to the best cobbled beach we could find. After close encounters with some Svalbard reindeer and a final toast to Linda, Carmel and Matt, Peter donned his life buoy and Matt slid into the water for our final paddle leg. Following favourable winds and currents towards the ship the call went out whales ahead! We paused as a group of 5 or so Belugas came close enough to the group to nearly nudge Matt, Linda and Carmel s kayaks a fabulous send off for all of us but especially those leaving the ship at the end of this voyage. DAY 11: LONGYEARBYEN Disembarkation. DISTANCE PADDLED: 110 KILOMETRES IN 13 PADDLES With the wind still on lunch break we climbed back into kayaks and went for a lovely paddle through the rocks and reefs of Kapp Lee before returning to the ship. DAY 9: SAMARINBREEN Distance: 10 km Fantastic conditions for a glacier paddle. With a full complement we left the ship and made our way over to the western edge of the glacier wall. We quickly picked up a couple Zodiacs and formed into a tight-knit gaggle for a group photo. Toby the Exhibitionist entertained us with his kayak-hopping abilities as he managed to cross the entire fleet without falling in the drink.

19 BIRD SPECIES LOG BIRD SPECIES JULY AUGUST Northern Fulmar x x x x x x x x x x Arctic Tern x x x x x x x x x x Kittiwake x x x x x x x x x x Glaucous Gull x x x x x x x x x x Common eider Southern Giant Petrel Northern fulmar Ivory Gull x x Brünnich s Guillemot x x x x x x x x x x Black Guillemot x x x x x x x x x x Little Auk Atlantic Puffin x x x x x x Barnacle Goose x x x x x Brent s Goose x x Brown Black-legged Skua kittiwakes Northern fulmar Pink-footed Goose x x x Common Eider x x x x x x x x x x Long-tailed Duck x Purple Sandpiper x x x x x Ringed Plover x x x Ruddy Turnstone x Dunlin x Purple sandpiper Cape Common Petrel eiders Atlantic puffin Arctic skua Black-legged kittiwakes Black Chinstrap guillemot Penguins Arctic tern

20 BIRD SPECIES LOG (CONTINUED) BIRD SPECIES JULY AUGUST Grey Phalarope x Arctic Skua x x x x x x x x Great Skua x x x x x x Brown Skua Red-throated Diver x x Snow Bunting x x x x x x x x Rock Ptarmigan x MAMMAL SPECIES LOG MAMMAL SPECIES JULY AUGUST Arctic Fox x x x x Reindeer x x x x x Polar Bear x x x x x Svalbard reindeer Polar bear Light-mantled Scoty Albatross Ringed Seal x x x Bearded Seal x x x x x Harbour Seal x x Walrus x x x Minke whale Snow Polar bear Petrel Bearded seal Minke Whale x Beluga x x Arctic fox in summer coat Walrus Walrus Antarctic Tern Polar bear

21 VOYAGE MAP Svalbard Odyssey 27 July 06 August Faksevagen 8. Bengtsssenbukta SJUØYANE 9. Karl XII Øy 10. Kraemerpynten 5. Hamiltonbukta LAGØYA KVITØYA 4. Smeerenberg July Glacier 2. Lilliehöökbreen PRINS KARLS FORLAND 1. Depart: Longyearbyen 20. Våsolbukta, Bellsund 19. Recherche, Bellsund FORLANDSUNDET NY ÅLESUND WIJDEFJORDEN 7. Alkefjellet ISFJORDEN LONGYEARBYEN BELLSUND HINLOPEN STRATET SPITSBERGEN STORFJORDEN NORDAUSTLANDET EDGEØYA TJUVFJORDEN 13. Torrelneset STORØYA ERIK ERIKSENSTRETET KONG KARLS LAND KONGSØYA SVENSKØYA ABELØYA 15. Sundneset 11. Andreeneset 12. Bråsvellbreen 14. Kapp Waldburg BARENTS SEA 18. Gnålodden, Hornsund HORNSUND 16. Kapp Lee Most northerly point of our voyage: Karl XII Øy, N SØRKAPP Total distance: 1,347 nautical miles 17. Samarinbreen, Hornsund

22 EXPEDITIONERS EXPEDITION TEAM POLAR PIONEER CREW PHOTO CREDITS Clare Agnew Mark Byrne Bill Dumigan Aurelio Hernandez Chris Moyle Helen Raymond Sue White Expedition Leader: Gary Miller Captain: Aleksandr Sasha Evgenov Motormen: Vladimir Zhigarev Clare Agnew Leigh-Ann Johnson Theo Agnew Caroline Byrne Pauline Dumigan Sanchez Nella Moyle Oliver Raymond Maree Wilkins Assistant E. Leader: Robyn Mundy Chief Mate: Bogdan Shmalko Stewardesses: Aleksandra (Sasha) Belusova Jocelyn Bowden Roger Kirkwood Ann Allsop Anthony Carter Alex Duncan Christine Innes Charmaine Munro Malcolm Smith Jane Wright Naturalist & Lecturer: Roger Kirkwood 2nd Mate: Sergei Abramov Alena Antonova Ellen Berah Suzie Leis Carmel Barbagallo Robin Carter Sarah Duncan Bob Inns Gary O Neill Verne Smith Anna Yerbury Expedition Guide: Ryan Burner 3rd Mate: Evgeni Terentev Inna Korotikh Caroline Byrne Gary Miller Ellen Berah Julie Chang Karen Erickson Dani Jacks Peter Ormond David Tam Doctor: Peter Lovell Radio Officer: Dmitry Korchevskiy Alina Siusiuskina Anthony Carter Chris & Nella Moyle Lisa Berlinguet John Cottrell-Dormer Scott Erickson Leigh-Ann Johnson Bob Pesavento Maria Jose Torres Lopez Chef: Allan Estoque Boatswain: Aleksandr Agafonov Elena Nigmatulina Robin Carter Robyn Mundy Jocelyn Bowden Dorothy Dhaeze Barbara Henderson Adrienne Kirby Linda Petrusa Dorothy Touponce Sous Chef: Herbert Cruz AB Sailors: Evgenii Koshcheev Elena Golubeva Dorothy Dhaeze Gary O Neill Di Byrne Jim Dhaeze David Henderson Suzie Leis Lynda Prior Marcel van Rooyen Hotel Manager: Kathrine Ersando Valeri Riabtcev Russian Cook: Aleksei Grigorov Jim Dhaeze Peter Ormond Bar Tender: Jennifer Guillema Marat Khaybullin Alex Duncan Pesavento-Touponce- Kayak Masters: Matt Edwards Chief Engineer: Viacheslav Boystov Sarah Duncan Chang family and Toby Story 2nd Engineer: Denis Strelkov Scott Erickson Oliver Raymond 3rd Engineer: Artur Ropotov Barbara Henderson Malcolm Smith 4th Engineer: Yurii Horobets David Henderson David Tam Electrical Engineer: Viacheslav Deviatkin Aurelio Hernandez Maria Jose Torres Ship s log compiled by Robyn Mundy Sanchez Christine Innes Marcel van Rooyen Anna Yerbury Paper made from 100% recycled material. Dani Jacks

23 Adventure With Us Intimate, educational, small group voyages to some of the world s wildest and most remote destinations, aboard quality expedition vessels. Antarctica & South Georgia Protected waterways beneath spectacular, glacier-draped mountains, penguins, seals, whales, historic sites and scientific stations. Patagonia Wild and isolated, Patagonia s wind-swept plains and glaciated peaks are the ultimate playground for intrepid travellers. South & Central America From jungles and deserts to wetlands, mountains and beaches, the landscape lends itself perfectly to a range of ship-based adventures. Nepal With eight of the top ten highest summits in the world and a landscape that s dotted with unique cultural, there s a lot more to Nepal than the one famous peak. Our other destinations include: Russian Coast & Papua New Guinea.