Southern Tanzania 2014

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1 Southern Tanzania 2014 A guided photographic workshop in two of Africa s finest wildlife areas. Bob Brind-Surch and Safari Consultants Bob Brind-Surch

2 Bob Brind-Surch Bob Brind-Surch

3 Introduction. The Northern Tanzanian Safari route with its big name locations such as the Ngoro Ngoro crater and the Serengeti is often seen as offering the classic safari experience with ample associated photographic opportunities. It certainly is a superb area to visit but its sheer popularity is becoming a problem for photographers wishing to observe wildlife in a more natural setting without the disturbance posed by other vehicles or photographers. In the Ngoro Ngoro crater it is actually becoming very difficult to photograph animals such as lions and rhino without other vehicles appearing in your shot. By comparison Southern Tanzania is far less frequented by the western tourist but yet has some largest and best preserved parks in East Africa. Southern Tanzania offers the real bush wilderness Bob Brind-Surch experience in an area with some of the purest remaining tracts of unspoilt game parks in Africa. It is home to a select group of national parks and reserves covering truly huge areas and offering superb and really remote game-viewing opportunities. The safaris I organise in Southern Tanzania are based at small, select and extremely well equipped tented camps where local safari guides, unlike Northern Tanzania, drive you around in completely open 4WDs which provide truly excellent photographic opportunities and allow you to enjoy a real feeling of wilderness. At our first camp we also have the opportunity for boat safaris on the mighty Rufiji river or one of the three huge local lakes. Such an approach with the expert boat men I use allow us to get very close to hippos, crocodiles and water birds all on their own level. In keeping with the unspoilt nature of the environment, the properties in these parks are of the small, low-impact variety, mainly taking the form of small permanent tented camps rather than the large lodges of the Northern circuit. The hosts of these camps don t attempt to compete with the majesty of the wilderness to be found around the camps. They manage this yet still maintain the luxuries we have become accustomed too. Each tent has low wattage lighting and is comfortably furnished with an ensuite bathroom with shower, wash basin and flushing toilet. I have designed this trip for the enthusiastic photographer interested in producing memorable images of African wildlife. It will explore two of Africa s finest wildlife areas - the vast Selous Game Reserve and wild Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania. We ll spent four nights in the Selous exploring the Rufiji River (East Africa s greatest waterway) and surrounding woodlands by boat and by vehicle, before heading off to Ruaha for a further four nights of spectacular wildlife viewing particularly for elephant and giraffe. We ll be staying in two small tented camps, both of which offer high standards of wildlife guiding and accommodation. In both camps we ll have our own open safari vehicle for all game drives. I deliberately limit the number of guests on the trip to 8 with no more than 4 per vehicle thus ensuring each of you a prime seat in specialised open sided 4WD vehicles with plenty of additional room available for equipment. As your tour leader I am a lifelong naturalist and photographer who has never lost my wonder for the natural world nor my early interest in wildlife and wildlife behaviour. This started as a child in the late 50 s when I was Bob Brind-Surch

4 fortunate to spend a number of years living in Kenya and I have held a fascination with Africa and its wildlife ever since. I take it as a real privilege to run these trips and am passionate about sharing my enthusiasm for Africa and its wildlife with guests. As your photographic guide my aim is to help you to take superb photographs to capture for ever this unique location and especially its wildlife. As a capable and experienced photographer and naturalist I am also a qualified teacher and patient Bob Brind-Surch tutor able to support everyone from the novice photographer to those who are considerably more experienced. I will help you to master the field techniques required by a competent wildlife photographer. I will be with you throughout the trip making sure you have a rewarding time and helping you translate your experiences in to great and memorable photographs. Working with you in the field and back at the camps, I will try to help you improve and refine your photographic skills understanding better digital photography techniques and how to achieve creative images. Bob Brind-Surch I carefully choose the drivers and local guides for this trip and ensure that they are well versed in the requirements of photographers. They know when and where to stop their vehicles, how to best position them for the available light and are prepared to wait in any location for as long as you require even if that is an hour or more. They are also more than prepared to experiment with different positions if required so long as this doesn t stress the animals you are photographing. The animal s welfare comes first and stressed animals never make good subjects. Unlike many African safaris the aim on this one is not so see as many species as possible but rather to spend time observing animals and birds behaving naturally and as a direct consequence get the very best photos. This will not be an attempt to see the legendary big five but will certainly provide you with the opportunity to take stunning and natural photos. The lodges and route have been especially selected by the UK based company and experts in the region, Safari Consultants. Choosing the right company to arrange your African safari is vitally important and the complexity and remoteness of Africa means you need a company who have detailed knowledge and firsthand experience of Africa. Safari Consultants are just such a specialist company having specialised in safaris to East and Southern Africa since They are a company which wants to take the time to understand guests requirements and desires and has the ability to create the perfect itinerary to match. The essence of this safari as organised by Safari Consultants is that you can enjoy luxury combined with a real wilderness experience in privacy and comfort. With a tiny population of people, the animals and birds have the lion s share of the country to themselves. This trip will allow you to share in this. The trip will be limited to no more than 8 guests and the total cost will be 5,299. This price includes all international flights on Kenya Airways (economy); ground and air transfers as specified; twin/double accommodation, meals as listed, game-viewing activities, park/conservation fees at Selous Impala and Kwihala, laundry at Selous Impala and Kwihala, UK and Tanzania airport departure taxes. For more details please refer to the costing details section below. Bob Brind-Surch

5 Detailed Itinerary. Bob Brind-Surch Wildlife Photography Southern Tanzania - a safari exploration of the Selous and Ruaha wildlife areas Duration: 10 nights Safari Consultants Ltd Africa House 2 Cornard Mills Cornard Tye Great Cornard CO10 0GW Telephone: + 44 (0) Emergency: + 44 (0) info@safariconsultantuk.com Tuesday, 16 th September 2014 Kenya Airways - London to Dar es Salaam Depart London Heathrow (Terminal 5) on the overnight Kenya Airways flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Wednesday, 17 th September 2014 Selous Impala Camp, Selous Game Reserve 4 nights - Full Board Early morning (currently 06h30) arrival into Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi where you connect with the onward Kenya Airways flight to Dar es Salaam. On arrival into Dar es Salaam (currently 09h20), complete entry requirements before being met by Coastal representative and assisted across to the Domestic Terminal where you connect with the midmorning Coastal Air air transfer service to the Selous Game Reserve. On arrival into the Mtemere airstrip (the flight may touch down at several strips), you will be met by Bob Brind-Surch and your guide from Selous Impala and transferred back to the lodge where four nights are spent in twin/double tents. Days are spent game-viewing in the reserve. Selous Impala is a small tented lodge overlooking the mighty Rufiji River. Accommodation consists of six standard tents and two family units, each individually raised on a wooden platform with a furnished verandah and views towards the river or over a channel off the main river. All tents are en

6 suite with the bathroom divided into a flush loo section, plumbed shower section and vanity basin with small dressing area (in the second tent on the family platform, the bathroom is open plan and open roofed with only the tarpaulin extension covering it). The tents are comfortably furnished with a bureau, chair and standing fan. The two family tents consist of en suite two tents side by side on the platform, one slightly smaller than the other with a different bathroom configuration. The spacious central areas including the bar, dining area (some meals are taken alfresco when weather permits) and sitting room are raised high on extensive wooden decking and under makuti thatch. There is a small decked area around the swimming pool. Game activities include game drives, walking and boat excursions on the river. Specialist bird watching safaris are operated at no extra charge (suitable for those who wish to do a day or two of good birding). If you're keen on fishing, you can also buy a river licence (US$15.00 per session) and try your luck for catfish and perhaps even the fighting 'tiger'. Overnight fly-camping expeditions (undertaken either on foot or by vehicle) are also available at a supplement and should be booked in advance. Please note that there are no credit card facilities at the camp. More Information about Selous: The Selous is Africa s largest wildlife sanctuary, covering over 54,600 sq. kms. (almost the size of Ireland). The region is dominated by the Great Ruaha River and Kilombero rivers which join to form the Rufiji, East Africa s greatest waterway. One of the worlds last great wilderness areas, the Selous is scarcely known even today. It is an inaccessible region, dissected by water courses which become raging torrents during the rains, forcing the animals onto high ground. In the dry season, the rivers wither away to form sand rivers. Having a poor network of roads, and limited facilities, this wilderness has been virtually ignored in the pilgrimage to see East Africa s wildlife heritage.

7 The reserve is named after the famous hunter and explorer, Frederick Courtney Selous, but it was the Germans who first established a game reserve here in The first warden was an eccentric former ivory hunter called C.P. Ionides (known locally as the Snake Man and it was he who helped develop the reserve into its present size. Under the wardenship of Brian Nicholson, the Selous became an example of intelligent wildlife management; it is divided into controlled areas and human habitation is prohibited. However, groves of mango trees scattered through the bush are grim reminders that the main southern caravan route from Lake Nyasa passed through this region; they grew from the stones dropped by slaves as they were marched towards the slave markets of Zanzibar. Local game animals include elephant, black rhino (although very rare), Cape buffalo, giraffe, eland, sable antelope, greater kudu, wildebeest, hartebeest, impala, waterbuck, bushbuck, tsessebe, common reedbuck, Bohor reedbuck, zebra, red duiker, blue duiker, common duiker, klipspringer, oribi, suni, grysbok, hippo, lion, leopard, cheetah, caracal, serval, crocodile, warthog, bushpig, spotted hyaena, wild dog, jackal, honey badger, aardvark, porcupine, mongoose, flying squirrel, and bushbaby. The birdlife too is superb, with over 350 species having been recorded. The habitat and scenery varies significantly over short distances: purple rolling hills, rock-strewn plains, sand rivers lined with salt bush, cluster lush swamps and marshes, rocky gorges, savannah bush country and miombo woodland. Altitudes range from 110m to 1250m and the climate is quite tropical - humid during the rains and pleasantly warm during the dry season (June to October). For more information re the Selous Impala Camp and Selous Game Reserve please visit Details of comments left by previous visitors can be found on tripadvisor at Reviews-Selous_Impala_Camp-Selous_Game_Reserve.html Sunday, 21 st September 2014 Kwihala Tented Camp, Ruaha National Park 4 nights - Full Board Morning activity before you are transferred back to the local airstrip where you connect with the scheduled morning Coastal Air air transfer, departing around 09h15, westwards to the remote Ruaha National Park. On arrival at Msembe airstrip (around 11h00), you will be met and transferred through the wilderness to Kwihala Tented Camp for 4 nights accommodation in twin/double tents. Gameviewing drives are conducted each day. Kwihala Tented Camp is located on a hill overlooking the Mwagusi Sand River in central Ruaha, close to the most productive game-viewing areas of the park. Accommodation for twelve guests in six large and airy tents, all spaced well apart for privacy and with views over the plains (the views become obscured by bushes and trees during the green season). The spacious beige tents all have proper beds and bed linen, bedside table and lights (solar with battery back up), a writing table and luggage rack. The en suite bathroom, located to one side of the tent, has has a flush toilet, a basin with cold running water, and a bucket shower, hot water for which is provided on demand by the staff. Meals are taken together in the central mess tent or weather permitting, alfresco under the stars. There is a small lounge with easy chairs and a library. The emphasis here at Kwihala is on the wilderness and wildlife, both in and out of camp. Being unfenced, the game moves freely through the camp, and you'll be escorted around after dark. Morning and afternoon, or full day (with bush lunches) game drives, by open four-wheel drive vehicles, are hosted by extremely knowledge professional safari guides. Kwihala is also able to offer

8 walking safaris and night drives. Unlike Selous these activities can only be booked locally and attract an extra charge of US$35.00 per person for walking and US$70.00 per person for night drives. We have previously been reticent about walking in Ruaha for two reasons, a) this is a National Park which conforms to the highest standards of environmental protection, and b), the park rangers who have traditionally been required to escort the walks do not, in our opinion, have sufficient skills/experience. However, walks are now be led by Kwihala's own professional guide, carrying his own firearm, and with this being the case we feel much more supportive of the initiative. More Information about Ruaha: Ruaha National Park was previously part of the huge Rungwa Game Reserve, with which it shares its north-western boundary. In 1964, it was gazetted as the National Park. The terrain within the park is well wooded and undulating. The Great Ruaha River gives the park a permanent supply of water, but there are also numerous sand rivers which become raging torrents during the rains (from December to April). In addition to the Great Ruaha River, there are also numerous waterholes, swamps and seepage areas which provide water throughout the year. Generally speaking, the park is divided into four different habitats consisting not only of Miombo, but also of undulating hills dominated by baobabs, the albida woodland along the main river courses and areas of open black cotton grassland. Mammal viewing is superb particularly in the dry season (June to October) when the animals are forced to congregate around water sources elephant, buffalo, lion, impala, zebra, giraffe, hippo, waterbuck, roan and sable antelope, eland, greater and lesser kudu, and Grant s gazelle are just some on the many species to be seen. Local birdlife is exceptional as Ruaha lies in the convergence zone of species found both to the north and south of the region. Amongst the 540 or so species recorded in the park, you can expect to see bateleur and fish eagles; ostrich; spurwing and Egyptian geese; crowned cranes; guinea fowl; yellow-

9 billed, saddle-billed, Abdim s and open-billed storks; and numerous species of ibis, plover, kingfisher, bee-eater, parrot, duck, barbet, dove, francolin and roller. The local red-billed hornbill has recently been recognised as its own species. For more information re the Kwihala Tented Camp and Ruaha National Park please visit with details of the accommodation at and tripadvisor reports at Ruaha_National_Park.html Thursday 25 th September 2014 Southern Sun, Dar es Salaam 1 night - Bed and Breakfast Morning at leisure for game-viewing, before you are transferred back to Msembe Airstrip in order to connect with the late morning Coastal Air scheduled air transfer service, departing around 11h45, via the Selous Game Reserve back to Dar es Salaam. On arrival into Dar es Salaam (scheduled for 13h50), you will be met and transferred to the Msasini Slipway where you have the chance to have a late lunch (your account) and relax. In the evening, transfer back to Dar es Salaam International where you connect with the scheduled late evening Kenya Airways flight, currently at 20h10, to Nairobi. On arrival (currently 21h25), connect with the onward overnight Kenya Airways flight, currently at 23h45, to London. Friday, 26 th September 2014 Kenya Airways - Dar es Salaam to London Early morning arrival into London Heathrow Terminal 4 - currently 06h45. Costing Details: Please note that airline timings may change slightly. This itinerary makes use of light aircraft air transfers which have strict baggage restrictions. All bags should be of the soft 'hold all' variety, with a maximum weight of 15kgs per person including hand luggage. Laundry can be done daily and is included at the various camps. Included International flights on British Airways (economy); ground and air transfers as specified; twin/double accommodation on board basis mentioned; game-viewing activities, park/conservation fees at Selous Impala and Kwihala; laundry at Selous Impala and Kwihala; UK and Tanzania airport departure taxes. Not Included Visa fees (currently US$50.00 per person); travel insurance; personal items and gratuities; optional tours and excursions (balloon safari etc.); drinks and laundry unless specified.

10 Prices: The total cost will be 5,299 per person. This price includes all international flights on Kenya Airways (economy); ground and air transfers as specified; twin/double accommodation, meals as listed, gameviewing activities, park/conservation fees at Selous Impala and Kwihala, laundry at Selous Impala and Kwihala, UK and Tanzania airport departure taxes. For more details please refer to the costing details section below. The price is per person and based on two people sharing although a single room can be provided on payment of a single room supplement subject to availability. Unlike some other tours if you are a single person booking this trip you do not have to pay single supplements providing you are happy to share. If you are travelling by yourself you will be paired with another single client of the same gender. Single supplements are however payable if you specifically request to have a room to yourself. If you have requested single accommodation we will do our best to secure this although this may not always be possible. Deposit required to confirm arrangements: per person by 1 st March 2013 The prices quoted for this itinerary are valid for outward travel on dates shown All our holidays are fully bonded for your financial protection under the CAA ATOL scheme or through the AITO Trust. Remember, if you decide to book direct with companies in Africa, or through a non-bonded company here in the UK, your money is at risk. Please do not hesitate to ask us for further information. Exchange rates - please note that the exchange rates between the US$ dollar & UK pound are currently extremely volatile, with the recent trend being a huge devaluation of our UK pound. As many costs relating to your holiday are paid in either of the currencies, the price of your holiday is closely linked with these exchange rates. For this quotation, we have used the current exchange rate, however, we will need to reconfirm the holiday price with you at the time of booking. Please see section 8 in our Terms & Conditions for further details on our pricing policy. Fuel Surcharges: You will appreciate that we are currently living in a very uncertain time with regards to increases in fuel costs. The above price includes the current fuel surcharges being levied by the relevant airlines. We will not surcharge this price unless further fuel surcharges exceed 2% of the total cost of this itinerary, in which case you will only be surcharged the amount which is over and above the 2% increase. All guests will be required to complete a Safari Consultants Booking Form which will be subject to acceptance of Safari Consultants Terms and Conditions. Safari Consultants and Natures Photos reserve the right to cancel the tour if the minimum number specified is not reached at by March 1 st In this event and this event only you will receive your deposit back in full. For Safari Consultants General Information and current terms please visit.

11 Bob Brind-Surch

12 Bob Brind-Surch Bob Brind-Surch - Natures Photos 23 Calvert Road Greens Norton Towcester Northamptonshire NN128DD Telephone: +44 (0) Emergency: +44 (0) bob@brind-surch.me.uk In association with Safari Consultants Ltd Africa House 2 Cornard Mills Cornard Tye Great Cornard CO10 0GW Telephone: + 44 (0) Emergency: + 44 (0) info@safariconsultantuk.com

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