INSTRUCTION for assembly of the kit Schooner Polotsk, art. МК0302, scale 1:72

Transcription

1 INSTRUCTION for assembly of the kit Schooner Polotsk, art. МК0302, scale 1:72

2 Instruction for assembly of the model Schooner Polotsk art. МК0302, scale 1:72 [version of instruction from ] The contents 1. Historical background 2. General recommendations for Assembly of the model 3. The Assembly of the hull skeleton and laying of the rough planking 4. The handling of the hull and finishing planking of the stern 5. Finishing deck planking and inner planking of the boards 6. Outside finishing planking 7. Finishing of the hull and fittings 8. Masts-and-spars 9. Rigging 1. Historical background Schooner Polotsk was built in Ragusa of Sicily in Unfortunately, history hasn t saved the first Greek name of the vessel for us. The ship started its marine life in the Aegean Sea. Initially, the schooner was used as a privateer ship against Turkish trading ships. However, having come short of speed to the military vessels of the enemy, the schooner became the loot of the Turkish fleet very soon, as a part of which arrived in 1787 to the East coast of the Black sea during Second Russo Turkish war ( years). During this is unfortunate expedition for the Turkish fleet, several transport ships, including the Greek schooner, were in area of the Taman Peninsula. By coincidence, the troops of General Bulgakov after defeat of Nogai Horde in the delta of Kuban River were redeployed through the Kerch Strait to reinforce the Russian military corps in the Crimea. According to various reports, the schooner was purchased, or requisitioned in the form of indemnity by the Russian side and handed over by Bulgakov to the Black sea fleet, in which allotted in Brought the schooner to Sebastopol Anton Petrovich Alexiano demoted to warrant officer, who became the first Russian captain of the Polotsk. The story of this remarkable man is unusual. His sea service the Greek seaman Anton Alexiano began in 1770 as a volunteer on the ships of the Russian Navy of the First archipelago expedition. And in 1786, being a staff-officer, Alexiano was transferred from the Baltic to the Black sea fleet. By the time, he has already been participant of the shipwreck of the ship Slava Rossii (Glory of Russia), and after he wrecked ships Alexander and 4 of Katasonov s building at Cape Tarkhankut, fail-captain was decommissioned. According to the Marine Charter of the Peter I the captain carried a penalty of hanging for the ran down ship. But this clause of the Peter s Charter has never been executed in the entire history of the Russian fleet. Captains, as a rule, were deprived of honors, privileges, pensions and sent them packing from fleet... but then, were often returned. The shortage of personnel in the ever growing Russian fleet was constantly visible. Because of this punishable Alexiano got off easy fright and was sent to serve on a small schooner. After moving to Sebastopol, ex-pirate, renamed to the Polotsk, became part of the F. F. Ushakov flotilla. The function of this small vessel was seemed simple, but the fate of the battle depended from it. The glory of Firdonisi, Kinburn and Kaliakra was largely deserved thanks to this small ship. The little Polotsk did not take a bear by the tooth, either was not a scout. It just... repeated. The signal-repeating ship in those old days was called the ship, selected for repeating of the signals. That is, to duplicate them after a ship displayed the signal (usually a flagship, on the beam of which has often kept the signal-repeating ship), for greater reliability and acceleration of signal reception to the distant ships. The conditions of warfare in the age of sailing ships, when the raised sails of the ships in the line of battle and the smoke of battle obscured the signals of the flagship, demanded to find a special ship which would be at approximately equal distance from the line of cor de bataile and transmit the signals of the flagship on the ships of the foremost line. The signal-repeating ship being out the line, had to be clearly visible by all ships of the line and from the clarity and speed of transmitting of flagship signals by it largely depended on the outcome of the battle. The signal-repeating ship is not class, it is an assignment. Therefore, it could be any ship from which in the battle due to the weakness of artillery and small speed there was little sense, as from the combat unit, but it immediate has got the importance, as the element of battle management. To assess the importance of the signal-repeating ships should take into account that in case of absence in the fleet of the signal vessel, the signals of the flagship which were repeated by each ship in order and transferred from flagship along the chain could come to the last ships of the line too late, at that time, when it was necessary to execute the synchronous action.

3 F. F. Ushakov loved the accuracy of the maneuver; there was important for him that the captain of each ship of the mast or line understood the essence of the battle and executed the command on time, thuswise the ship Polotsk with the schooner rig was specially chosen from the fleet and assigned as signal-repeating. Despite such an important mission, the schooner took an active hand in the combat actions on the Black sea. Polotsk participated in the war with Turkey From till in the structure of squadron of rear-admiral the Earl M. I. Vojnovich went to sea in search of the enemy; on participated in the battle near the island Fidonisi. From till the ship went out in the cruising to the Anatolian shore headed by and flying the flag of captain 2nd rank D. N. Senyavin. On the group bombarded the Sinop, destroyed the coastal battery near Bonn and burned the warehouses, sunk or captured 11 Turkish transport ships with cargo. According to witnesses all that day, continued all night and until noon the next day the shore was dotted with numerous crowds of people, chaotic gun and rifle fire from the city, batteries and ships was spew. During this time the cruising ships under shield of two frigates ( Ioann Voinstvennik and Nestor Prepodobniy ) and signal-repeating ship Polotsk did a successful search near the neighboring shores; they captured eight ships, drove ashore and sunk four vessels, being coming from Anatolian coast in Constantinople. The Turks tried to escape to shore in the longboats, but many of them were shoot or sunk; 80 Turks, 14 Turkish women, 51 Greeks, 3 Armenians, 14 Circassia slaves, transported to Constantinople for sale, 27 adult Circassia girls and 12 our soldiers from different regiments, who was in captivity and transported for sale; in total 201 peoples were taken prisoners. Captured vessels were loaded with wheat, and because the two of them turned out to be unreliable to sail, the Admiral ordered to get the wheat to the squadron and to move ships to the city and burn...on September, 24 the squadron left the Bay of Sinop the ship went out to cruise to the estuary of the Danube in the squadron of rear-admiral F. F. Ushakov with the squadron came to the Anatolian shore to search the Turkish ships near Sinop, was sent by F. F. Ushakov to Theodosia with a report to Prince G. A. Potemkin- Tauride. From till went out to sea to search the Turkish ships in the squadron of F. F. Ushakov. Participated in the battles near Kerch Peninsula ( ) and near the island Tendra ( ), was by the flagship St. Paul. On and went out to search the Turkish ships in the squadron, on participated in the battle near Cape Kaliakr. In yearly the ship Polotsk was in the squadron in the practical sailing in the Black sea. In December 1799 went out from Nikolaev with supplies for the squadron of Admiral F. F. Ushakov, who was in the Mediterranean sea, and gone missing (presumably crashed near the Danube throats). However, underwater archaeological research, conducted by The Black sea underwater research center in the fall of 2013, suggests that the shipwreck is buried in the waters of the Karkinit Bay off the West coast of the Crimea. The captains of the schooner Polotsk of the Russian fleet were: - A.P. Alexiano (1787) brought the ship to Sebastopol. The schooner was registered as a commercial vessel. - G. S. Karandino ( ) took the ship, did its timbering and testing in the Sebastopol Bay. - G. G. Belle (Belli) ( ); From report of rear-admiral Ushakov to Prince Potemkin: The signal-repeating ship Polotsk Navy captain Lieutenant commander Belle during the battle with excellent courage, skill and quickness performed duty. - T. Messer ( ); - S. V. Podgaetsky (1798); - K. P. Lobysevich (1799). 2. General recommendations for assembly of the model Attention! Same plates with the details in the kit can have curvature in the different planes (what is called spirally ). This IS NOT a defect. The structure of the hull of our kits is such that during assembly the all deformations of the surface of details are being compensated. If the deformations of the details extracted from the plate are essential, they may be wet with water to reduce the stress states in the material. Before Assembly, carefully read the instruction and check the details according to Specification. On each plate there is an ARTICLE, which corresponds to the article on Scheme of the location of details on the plates and in the Specification. Attention! Before removing the details from the plates, be sure to number them with a pencil on the front side according to the numbering on schemes of the location of details on the plates. Until the end of the construction of the model do not dispose of packaging STRETCH FILM and the REMAINS of the PLATES, it may be useful to you. The great part of elements in the kit and details are cut by laser. Side of the part, on which felled the laser beam at the time of cutting, will be called the cutting side. When cutting details, engraving is applied

4 only from the cutting side. This term occasionally will be used further. To detect the cutting side can be by the presence on it the engraving and ARTICLE of the plate. On the Scheme of the location of details on the plates (attached separately) all plates shown up of the cutting side. The face side of many parts is the reverse side of the cutting side. Therefore you should number these parts from the side opposite the cutting side. Example: the rough and finishing planking. We do not recommend removing all details from the plates at once. Read the instruction carefully, plane scope of work and remove only the necessary details. The bridges should be trimmed on both sides from plates with a thickness of more than 1.5 mm so as not to damage the part. After removing the parts you should carefully grind the places of their fastening (bridges) in the plates. Gently remove bevels on the engraved contour on the details, this determines the further the correct installation of the planks of the roughing and finishing planking on the frame of the model hull (the example of the removal of the bevel - Fig. 1 of photo instruction). Further in the text all references to figures are drawings of the PHOTO INSTRUCTION, unless otherwise specified. Method of cutting of the details with a laser cutting has two peculiarities: the formation of the dark soot on the cutting details and a little taper (not vertical) of the cut. Both these peculiarities are used when building the model. For example, when cutting of the deck boards or planking it soon allows better accentuate the seams that simulates caulked with pitch seams of boards, and with the installation of planking the taper of cut allows a better adjust the planks of planking to each other without remove of the bevel. When assembles the hull frame and installs the rough planking, it is not necessary especially to clean the soon, as everything will be covered the roughing and finishing planking respectively. In areas of the adjunction of the cutting line to the flat surfaces you may lightly process the cutting line by sandpaper for a closer adjunction to the plane. Attention! In the text of the instruction the requirement to remove of face piece will not be explicitly specified in many positions. Meanwhile the face piece is engraved on the parts. Attention! Due to the fact that the thickness of the material (plywood, lamella) has technological tolerance from the standard, it is necessary to verify before gluing any detail the accuracy and easy of its installation in the slot without glue. If necessary, process with sandpaper the plane of the detail. - For work we recommend you to use following TOOLS: - - modelling knife with the changeable blades. - - three types of sandpaper (medium-grained No , small-grained No , very small-grained No ). It is recommended to buy or make wooden sandpaper holder in the form of blocks of different shapes, on which the sandpaper is fastened. - - set of the tread files: flat, round and square; - - nailer for hammering of a small nails - - notcher for bending of rails - - drill mini and the drills of the diameters ; 1.2; 1.5; 2.0; 2.5; 3.0; 3.5; 4.0; 5.0; 5.5; 6.0 mm; - - office clamps; slate-pencil; - adhesive tape (scotch) - carpenter glue (PVA adhesive) for gluing the wooden parts, contact adhesive "Moment" for gluing deck planking, cianoacrylate glue for gluing the metal parts. - transparent semi-gloss varnish and a black paint. Attention! If You have any requests and remarks for this kit, please contact us by RC@MASTER-KORABEL.RU 3. The Assembly of the hull frame and laying of the rough planking From the plates remove the frames A1 - A8, the lugs A10 - A13, details of the garboard strakes C2, the lower part of the keel frame B1. From frames, lugs and the main plate Z1 remove the bevel (the chamfer) on the engraved lines where necessary. In Fig. 1 of photo instruction on the example of detail A10L it is shown how to remove the bevel with details. Attention! Hereinafter the parts, on which the face piece has to be removed will not be explicitly specified, except unobvious places. Attention! The letters R and L at the end of the part number indicate right and left parts accordingly. Sometimes in the text the part number will be indicated without these letters this means that the operation should be done for both parts On the main plate Z1 on the part the cutting side glue the lower part of the keel frame B1 and the frames A1 - A8 (see Fig. 2). Frames A1 - A4 are installed by the cutting side (and therefore the bevel) to the bow, frames A5 - A8 to the aft Glue lugs A10 - A13 of a right and left sides, finally handle them with the sandpaper so its seams with the frames А1, А2, А7, А8 and with the main plate Z1 were smooth and haven t the steps, and only then glue in the details of the garboard strakes C2 (according to Fig. 2). When gluing the details C2 try not to clog grooves in the keel frame B1with glue Using the pattern B12 mark with pencil the line of bevel (see Fig. 3) on the inner sides (the sides opposite the cutting sides) of details A14R and A14L. Handle the inner and outer sides of these details according to the lines of the bevels. To control the correctness of the bevel on the inner side of the detail A14R you can also along the line engraved on the keel frame B2 (see Fig. 4, marked in red). Detail A14L handles symmetrically. After you made sure that the details A14 can be processed correctly (inserting them on the seats without glue), glue the aft frame A9, keel frame B2 and details A14 (see Fig. 4, 7). Frame A9 shall be glued BEFORE installing of the keel frame B2.

5 3.5. On the inner side of the cutout of the deck C1, adjacent to the details A14 remove the bevel at the place so that the deck carefully and accurately lies on its seat (see Fig. 5, 8) Assemble the bow conductor from the details B13 and B14. Please note that you need to remove the bevel from details B13 along the engraving (see Fig. 6, marked in red). In Fig. 6 the detail B13 is located the cutting side up. After installing the detail on the hull of the bow conductor B13 will be located the cutting side to the deck (see Fig. 8) Handle and glue the ribs A15-A23 and the bottom parts of the cathead Q1 (after removing the bevel) (see Fig. 7). Without waiting when the glue dries install the deck C1 without glue and insert the previously assembled bow conductor (details B13-B14). This will help you to fix correctly the position of the ribs until the glue dries (see Fig. 8) Assemble the aft conductor of details B9R, B9L, A25-A28. Please note that the bevel should be removed from details A25-A27 (see Fig. 6, marked in red). Details А25 and A26 are set by bevel up (as in the aft the hull tapers up, the installation of the conductor see Fig. 9), A27 is set by bevel to the stern (as the hull tapers to the stern and up) Glue the deck C1 and fixate its crown by half-hammered nails Z24. After it dries remove the nails and install the bow and aft conductors, pre-wrapping the aft conductor by tape or stretch wrap (see Fig. 9) to prevent bonding of the conductor to the hull details. The aft conductor is fixed to the deck by means of details B10. The details B10 are not glued, but only inserted from the top to the bottom it is the locks Before laying of the rough planking handle the hull in those places where it is necessary exactly with bevels, so that the lines of intersection of the frames, lugs, main plate and rough deck were smooth and had not the steps. Please note on the scheme in Fig. 12! In tis enlarged view the part of the engraved marking of the rough deck is shown. This marking is designed to correctly put roughing and finishing inner planking of the bulwarks, waterways and finishing deck planking. For this the rough deck has the marking. In the scheme the deck s border allocated red, the place, which must take the end face of the inner rough planking of the bulwark, filled the yellow (see section 5), the place for the end face of the inner finishing planking of bulwark - green, waterway grey. Accordingly, when you handle the hull try not to damage the outer contours of the deck as they are associated with marking Wet in warm water and bend the rough planking of the bulwark D2 as shown in Fig. 10. We recommend wetting during 3-5 minutes, and then giving the plywood a little (2-3 minutes) to dry outside. At this point the plywood gets maximum elastic and it can be bent. You need to bend the bulwark with your fingers using pliers very gently and slowly, little by little in different places. By pliers you clamp by the location of the vertical cuts for the gun ports in order not to break the bulwark in these areas when you bend it with your fingers. Correctly curved planking should be good to lie on all ribs (see Fig. 11). Remove slightly the bevel of planking in the bow in accordance with Fig. 10 to provide a better fit to the top part of the keel frame. Monitor that the planking without tension has tightly adjoined to the outer edge of the rough deck without gaps, especially in the bow Remove the bevel from the strengthening of the aft counter timbers A24 and glue them in the aft counter timbers B8 (the right and left accordingly). After glue drying handle (for concave shape) the edge of strengthening A24 in accordance with the corresponding edge B8 (see Fig. 10, marked in red) Glue the aft counter timbers B3, B4-B8 (right and left) and also tafferel D1 to fixate it tightly on the aft conductor with nails (in order the tafferel does not glue accidentally to the conductor, Scotch was used). You need to wet and bend the tafferel before installing using recommendations for bending plywood in point For a more accurate alignment of the tafferel set the rough planking of bulwark without glue, fixing it the office clips at the top parts of the ribs and bow conductor (see Fig. 11).

6 We recommend you to assemble the entire subassembly in the following sequence: first, glue the central counter timber B3 and the symmetrical counter timbers B7R and B7L. Then glue the pre-curved tafferel to them. Without waiting when glue dries glue the remaining counter timbers B4-B6, B8 in tafferel and on frame A9. Then the entire glued structure of tafferel and the rough planking of bulwark (without glue by means of clips) is set so that the top corners of tafferel and planking were located relative to each other as shown in red circles in Fig. 11. You have to monitor the symmetry of the whole structure in relation to diametrical flat of the hull, passing through the middle of the counter timber B3. After that the tafferel has be fixed to the conductor with nails (holes for the nails are already cut by laser) After drying of the tafferel and counter timbers glue the rough planking of the bulwarks D2L and D2R. Attention! Over deck the planking is glued only to the end face of tafferel, to the lower part of the cathead Q1 and to the bow part of the keel frame (B2 plus the details of strengthening A14). This is done because further the protruding parts of the rough ribs above the deck shall be broke out (for example, see Fig. 22 and further). Below deck the planking is glued to all details of the hull with which it comes into contact. Control the absence of gaps between the planking and rough deck, especially in the bow. If you wet and curved planking enough, after drying the water, it will retain the desired shape, and you can later break down the ribs without changing the shape of the hull. The rough planking is fasten with nails to the conductor in the aft part, with clothespins to the ribs in the central part and wtih the clothespins to the conductor and with the nails to the hull below deck in the bow (see Fig. 13) After complete drying of the planking, the conductors can be removed. The aft conductor after removing of the fixing elements B10 shall be removed by movement along the deck to the bow (because the board in the aft is bent inside) Glue pre-handled roughly inserts D11-D20. First insert of the transom wing D11 is glued, then the complete inserts D12- D15 (top to bottom), then the split inserts D16-D19 between them and finally D20 (Fig. 14). By the pre-handling of details to bevel, it is very important not to overgrind them. Attention! Before gluing, be sure to check the ease of insertion of the inserts into the grooves without glue. If necessary, reduce the thickness of the inserts handling its planes with the sandpaper After the glue dries make intermediate handling of the all aft counter with the sandpaper and try not to overgrind it (see Fig. 15). Please note that the profile of the bottom part of aft counter is not flat, but lenticular (Fig. 19, the place marked in red) Glue the outside rough planking G14 of the top part of the stern counter and after the glue dries drill a hole of the helmport 6 mm in diameter (see Fig. 15) Remove the bevel at the engraving from the groove boards of the rough planking D4R and D4L (see Fig. 16, area of the removing of bevel marked in red). Wet, bend and glue these boards in accordance with Fig. 16. Attention! All planks of the rough planking are fixed with nails Z27, hammered on half of the length. It is very convenient to use the tool for sticking nails. After the glue has dried, remove all nails with pliers. Attention! For easy positioning of the planks they have marks. These marks correspond to the position of frame A4 (see Fig. 16 and 17, marks highlighted in red) Glue planks D3-D9 and after that the compensation planks D10R and D10L. Compensation planks are sized in width and are glued as last thing. All planks need to be wet in water (see point 3.11) and to bend by the form. Also you have to trim to the cone the bow parts of planks that are adjoined on the bow to the keel frame for the best their joining (see Fig. 17). The laying of rough planking is finished. 4. The handling of the hull and finishing planking of the stern 4.1. After drying the planks of the rough planking remove the nails. Lightly handle the rough planking of hull with sandpaper to smooth the surface at the junction of the planks We highly recommend you to use sandpaper holders (or in the stick with glued on it a sandpaper, or in the form of any structure with the ability to change sandpaper) for sandpaper. Remove with sandpaper no more than 0.2 mm of thickness per single pass. Special attention should be paid to the smooth hull lines, so they had not depressions. In the area of the adjunction to the keel frame the planking and garboard strake C2 should be gradually sanded to a thickness of the keel frame without reaching its bound mm (Fig ). This is pre-handling. Final handling of the rough planking will need to be done after gluing of the details of finishing planking K1, K2, F15 and cover plates on the keel F14 (Fig. 21, 29).

7 Attention! It is convenient to control the smoothness of the hull lines using plank Z61, which shall be pressed to the hull with your fingers in two places (at a distance mm) with tension along the length. When you are viewing from the side all the bumps will be visible. Place the plank at different angles and in different places of the hull for control Trim and handle protruding beyond of the tafferel and stern counter the planks of the rough planking as shown in Fig. 19 and 20. When viewed from the side the lower part of the stern counter looks like a lens (see Fig. 19, marked in red). It is very important not to overgrind the hull, especially in the area of the stern counter edge (see Fig. 20, marked in red). In the future the stern counter can be finalized using finishing planking F15 as template (see further) Glue overlaps F14.10 and F14.11 at the end face of the keel frame on the stern (see Fig. 21) Glue the two halves of the lower stern counter F15R and F15L, and handle the edges of the rough planking, docking with these details. For this purpose we highly recommend to use the following method: glue the end faces of details F15R and F15L and fix them with adhesive tape (transparent or masking tape). By applying the formed detail as template, handle the stern counter. If necessary, increase the bulge of the lenticular part a bit (if you overground it earlier). Glue the fastened halves, orienting the seam between them by engraving on the rough planking of the stern counter G14. The use of tape will not allow the halves to separate the sides when they are gluing and drying Glue the outer finishing planking of tafferel K1, handle the edge of its junction with the rough planking of the stern counter G14 and glue the finishing planking of the stern counter K2. The scheme of docking of the different layers of the rough and finishing planking in the area of junction of the tafferel and stern counter is shown in Fig. 21. Finishing planking of lower part of the stern counter (details F15R and F15L) and finishing planking of top part of the stern counter K2 are joined end-to-end Cut along the contour the holes of the gun ports with a sharp knife, except for the first in bow, which we make with the closed port lid. 5. Inner planking of the boards and finishing deck planking. Attention! When you glue the inner roughing and finishing planking of the sides don t forget about the markup on the deck (see scheme in Fig. 12, the explanation in the note in point 3.10). When you glue the planking the thickness of the side in the area of the deck can be varied, applying a thicker layer of glue Cut off all rough plywood ribs till the upper surface of the rough deck (if all the details sat normally, then an especial saw cut that facilitates cutting is in place of cut of the ribs). The lower part of the cathead Q1 is not cut (see Fig ) Glue the inner rough planking of the bulwark H1.1 and H1.2 according to Fig. 22. Before gluing the planking should be little wet and bent for a better join. You need to position by holes of the gun ports. If necessary, trim the front and rear end edges of the rough planking. It is necessary to insert temporarily the nails in the holes of the rough planking H1.2 and corresponding them holes in the rough bulwark D2 for better positioning (see Fig. 22, marked in red) After the glue has dried, handle with sandpaper on the block (p.4.2) the glued layer of the rough planking according to the scheme shown in Fig. 23. The rough bulwark D2 is marked in orange on it, rough planking H1.1 and H1.2 - in yellow and finishing planking of the bulwark H2.1 and H2.2 in light green (see further). You shall gradually reduce the thickness of the board from bottom-up for all perimeter of the glued rough planking. Do not touch the tafferel After handling of the rough planking glue the bow inserts A31 and smoothen them with sandpaper to get the blending from the bow insert A14 through inserts A31 to the surface of the rough bulwark H Wet, bend and glue the inner finishing planking of the bulwark H2.1 and H2.2 (see Fig. 24, 25). You need to position it by the holes of the gun ports. If necessary, trim the front and rear end edges. When positioning it is also possible to use the nails, which are inserted from the outside into the holes of the bulwark s rough planking (Fig. 22). Then glue the inner finishing planking of the tafferel H4. Attention! Outer edge of the finishing planking should match the marking on the rough deck. If necessary, trim the bottom edge of the finishing planking Glue the lining under waterway N25.1-N25.4 along the entire side in accordance with Fig. 24, 25. Lining under waterway has not its own marking on the rough deck and lies on the outer edge of the marking of waterway. The lining part N25.4 ends in the aft on the outside line of the waterway s marking of tafferel (see zoomed part in Fig. 24) Remove carefully the waterway N24.1-N24-4 and the finishing deck I1 from the plate. Try to remove the deck entirely so that it does not fall apart in separate pieces so it will be easier in the next step to adjust it. If necessary, tape it across multiple strips of tape, not sticking one of its ends to the tape then after gluing of the deck to be easy to remove. Sand the bridges near waterway, and also on the outside of the deck s perimeter Without gluing, adjust the waterway of bulwark, the inner finishing planking of the stern counter H5 and deck by the marking of the rough deck (see Fig. 26) so, that the seam of the deck and waterway was tight (seam between H5 and the end faces

8 of the side waterways also needs to be tight). Boards of the deck must have distance between them the width of the cutting line by laser corresponds exactly to the desired distance. Therefore, we recommend to glue the deck not by one board, but by blocks (see further), and then to cut the bridges between the individual boards with sharp knife. When fitting waterway (and, correspondingly, by its further installation) we recommend to glue separately its parts N24.2- N24.4 on the flat surface. Waterway has the bulge in the area of the adjacent to the bulwark (in cross section it is similar to the «plinth»). The lining N25 has been laid for this purpose After the waterway, the deck and the inner finishing planking of stern counter have been fitted, glue them in the following sequence: waterway N24.1-N24.4, then the inner planking of the stern counter H5, then the deck, pre dividing it into 3 separate units (see Fig. 27). First the side units shall be glued, then the central unit. After this the waterway of the tafferel N26 has to be fitted and glued. It shall laid back to back with the inner finishing planking of the stern counter H5 with its outer edge. Please note that the marking of the board s seams on the rough deck is drawn just in case From details K7, H6, H7 make the covers of the privy ports. Details are glued to each other in form sandwich in accordance with scheme in Fig. 28. After that eye-bolt 12 and pin 26 shall be installed on them, and the whole resulting structure is glued into the privy ports. Please note that at the view from outside part of the stern, the covers are deepened about on mm (see Fig. 34, 36) Glue the overlaps on the keel F14.1-F14.9 in accordance with Fig Glue the end overlap E6 to the sternpost B17 and adjust and insert it into the aft without glue (see Fig. 30, left). Cover the sternpost with masking tape or remnants of stretch film to avoid accidental damage (Fig. 30, right) and handle to desired shape the hole of the helmport (see Fig. 28, 30). The inserted sternpost is needed to properly handle the edge of the hole: it needs to be the prolongation of the straight line drawn on the surface of the overlap E6. After handle of the helmport hole remove the sternpost If you haven t done it, finally handle with fine sandpaper the rough hull before installation the finishing planking. A drill will clean from the glue the holes in the bulwark (see Fig. 33). These holes are for eye-bolts of the gun tackle and it is very inconvenient to drill them from the inside as they are located close to the deck Adjust the stem B15 so that it could be freely inserted in its seat (Fig. 31), and glue into it overlap on the knee of the head Z2. Also at this stage it is possible to handle this detail according to Fig. 39, so that when viewed from top at the installed on the hull the details stem + knee of the head in the area of the junction with the hull, its thickness should be 3 mm, gradually reducing to 2 mm at the end of the knee of the head A special groove for the rubbing piece is on the stem B15 in the area its junction with hull (see Fig. 40). On both sides mark on the hull the top point of the rubbing piece with knife in accordance with groove on the stem (see Fig. 31, marked in red). This mark is needed for proper positioning of the finishing planking of bulwark (see Fig. 35). The hull is ready to install of the outside finishing planking. 6. Outside finishing planking Before installing the finishing planking pay attention to Fig. 32. It presents two extreme versions of the junction of the side s finishing planking with finishing planking of the keel and stem. The side s finishing planking is marked in red, finishing planking of the keel/stem - in dark blue, rough keel/stem - in light blue and overlap on the keel F14 in green. In version I the finishing planking approaches almost vertically to the keel. This version is present in the aft of the hull. Junction with finishing planking of the keel is done according to the following scheme: the planking is glued with almost no handling in the inner corner (I-а), it is handled on the surface of the overlap so that edges coincide with overlap (l-b), after handling and installation of the keel s finishing planking the cross-section of the structure appears as in fig. I-c. In version II the finishing planking approaches on the angle to the keel/stem. This version is present in the bow of the hull, where the ends of the boards of the finishing planking abut to the keel/stem. Before gluing, you must first regrind a bit the inside corners of the boards (II-а), then transpire the handling (II-b) and the assembled structure appears as in fig. II-c. Please note that the handling in phases I-b and I I-b is performed so that end face of the finishing planking of the keel/stem closes the handling end face of the boards of rough planking of the hull. The bulk of the boards of the finishing planking (except the top and last) is glued the laser cutting side inside. This is done in order to use the taper of the laser cut for a beautiful junction. Also give note to Fig. 38 (highlighted in green). Made the marks (2 vertical cuts on the top of the plate and 2 on the bottom) on the plates with finishing planking in order to make with a pencil two parallel lines for more convenience of installation of the planking, attaching to them the ruler, on the front side of the planking (correspondingly, the side reverse cutting side). However, we recommend to use these lines mainly as a guide and to put the boards of the planking not from the center (from the lines), but from the bow.

9 6.1. Handle in accordance with comments, given in the beginning of this Chapter, slightly wet and bend the top finishing planking of the bulwark E1 (right and left sides). Glue these details. The positioning of the bottom edge on the bow is held at the pre-set mark (see point 5.15), in the middle and closer to the stern at the gun ports Please note that the starboard hull planking consists of the details E1R, J1R, F1-F12 and G13. The left side planking consists of the details E1L, J1L, G1-G12 and F13 (see Fig ) Glue the inner layer of the rubbing piece J1 (Fig ) and boards of the finishing planking of the right (F1-F12) and left sides (G1- G12). We recommend handling the ends of the boards in accordance with comments given in the beginning of this Chapter Glue the compensation boards of the planking G13 and F13 (see Fig. 38). They are given with a reserve by width. After drying of planking trim and handle the edges of the planking boards in accordance with comments given in the beginning of this Chapter and adjust the rough keel and stem to install them (see Fig. 42). Attention! After you have glued the last planking boards we insistently recommend to install the rough keel B16 without glue and remove it only if necessary (see Fig. 42). This will help to protect the edge of the planking against damages and chippings Glue the second layer of rubbing piece J2 (right and left sides). This layer is glued with a small shift forward that further after handling its own edge lays on the rough stem B15 (see Fig. 40). The line of junction of the rubbing piece and rough stem is closed by an overlap on the stem K4, for that it has a special groove (see further) Adjust the stem B15 and its slot (see Fig. 40). Handle (if you haven t already done so) stem and knee of the head in accordance with Fig. 39. Glue overlaps on the stem K4. Finally, the stem should be tightly inserted in the slot, the grooves in the overlaps K4 should match with outer layer of the rubbing piece on the height, seams of the rubbing piece and of the stem are hidden in the grooves of the overlaps (see Fig. 45) Blacken the background of the decal and install the brass stern plate 1 in accordance with Fig. 41. The side edges of the plate should match with the side s line. If the plate sticks out slightly, file it. Subsequently, the edges are closed by side overlaps (see Fig. 53). We recommend you to glue the plate 1 at this stage, as after the final gluing of the keel and the stem there is a danger of accidentally damaging the false keel and the finishing stem Adjust the finishing planking of the stem, keel and sternpost (details E5, E2, E3) in accordance with the comments given in the beginning of this Chapter (see Fig , in the scheme of installing of the planking in Fig. 45 the planking of the veneer is marked in a yellow). Glue the rough sternpost B17, keel B16 and stem B Glue the aft end face overlap E7 on the keel (overlap E6 on the sternpost had already been glued previously). Glue the finishing planking of the stem, keel and sternpost E5, E2, E3. Glue the pieces of the stem U2.1-U2.4. Glue the false keel E4 (see Fig. 45). Please note that the false keel is glued as a final step and its end face is visible from the side s view Install the mount in the form of the horseshoe (detail 28) according to Fig Assemble the pedestal from details A29, A30, B11, 17. The inner part of the keel blocks A29, A30, which is in contact directly with the hull, it is possible to paste it over with a soft cloth to prevent damage of the hull s surface Install the stern overlaps K3 in accordance with Fig. 48 and 53. With black ink or paint touch up the places in the area of the stern counter and overlaps, where necessary. Attention! We recommend at this stage (before installing the helm hinges) to perform the final handling of the hull with fine sandpaper and cover it with varnish. 7. Finishing of the hull and fittings 7.1. Glue the rudder from details U1.1, U1.2 and U1.3 in accordance with Fig. 47. Stick the overlaps on the rudder E8 and E9. Handle the rudder (Fig. 47). Two black overlaps in the area U1.3 are made of painted paper Bend and install the hinges , on rudder and hull respectively (see Fig ). For installing hinges make nails of wire Z33 with a diameter 0.6 mm. Nails are made as follows: take the piece of the wire and roll it on the flat surface under the blade of the knife forward and backward. At a result, in the area of the wire cut with knife it turn out not even cut, but the head just what you need in our scale (see Fig. 75). This technique is used wherever it is necessary to make the nail from the wire Align the seat for the gunwale. For this we recommend you to glue the sandpaper on the flat block and align the board with moves along the hull (see Fig. 50) From details B19, B20, L11, L12, F16, F17 mount the conductors (right and left) for drilling holes in the bow (see Fig. 49 right). Install conductors and drill the holes of diameter 0.5 mm (see Fig ) Glue the parts of the gunwale M1.1-M1.4, M3 (Fig. 52) and the cathead Q2 (Fig. 50, 52, 54) with supporter O1 (Fig. 54). The width of the gunwale is given with a small reserve for handling. After handling the gunwale shall protrude outside about 0.6 mm and inside about 0.4 mm.

10 7.6. Handle the tops of the knightheads Q6 in accordance with Fig. 49 and glue them in the grooves in the bow gunwale (see Fig. 54 and further). Please note that in the section the knighthead has a rhomb shape and its size must match the groove in gunwale (see Fig. 52) 7.7. Handle, paint black and glue the side bitts O20.1-O20.7 in accordance with Fig Glue the right and left reinforcements of the knee of the head K5 (see Fig. 56) Slightly wet, bend and handle the bow overlaps M2 and knees of the head knee N16, N17, and then glue them (see Fig ). Please note that on the upper knees N16 the position of the pad for fairleads Q8 is marked in the top (see Fig. 62). After drying round the transition from knee and overlap to the rubbing piece (in Fig. 58 marked in red). The transition from knees to the knee of the head shall be grind with sandpaper to zero (also in Fig. 58 marked in red). In the future the brass plates 20 and 21 shall be placed on this place (see, for example, Fig. 62) The front edge of the knees handle in accordance with Fig. 59 (right) Turn and install the hinges of the gun port 31 (see Fig and the inset between them) Handle details O3, Q3, Q4 in accordance with Fig. 60 and assemble the bowsprit bitts from them (it is not necessary to glue the pins Z18, they are shown for clarity) Make the bowsprit from the work piece for the bowsprit Z4 in accordance with the Drawings (Worksheet А). Adjust bowsprit pad Q4 and the heel of the bowsprit Z4 to each other (see Fig. 60) In the tops of the knightheads and, partly, in the bow gun wale drill and adjust the hole for bowsprit so that it tightly stood in this hole and in its bitts installed without glue on the deck (see Fig. 61 and 73). We recommend you drilling the hole with a smaller drill at first, and then enlarge it to the required size the sandpaper, rolled into the tube Handle upper pad between the knightheads Q7 for bevel and glue it (see Fig. 61) Glue eye-bolts 8 and 9 in accordance with Fig Handle the pads for the fairleads Q8 in accordance with Fig (deep cut (engraving) marks the center of the hole that you must drill). Set the pads for fairleads Q8 and fairleads Z22 pre-drilled for them the required holes (see Fig. 62). the fairleads are cut Inside in flush (see Fig. 64, a view of the bow from the inside) Blacken and glue the overlaps on the knee of the head 20 and 21 (see Fig. 62) Drill the required hole and glue on both sides the eye-bolt 9 in the black aft plate K3 (see Fig. 63). The eye-bolt should be parallel the gun wale, i.e. the hole should look almost up Install the hinges of the row ports 29 and the upper (K6.2-K6.8) sheer strake (Fig. 63). The bow part of the upper sheer strake K6.1 one puts a little later (see, for example, Fig. 68) Make the mainsail mast and the foresail mast according to Drawings (Worksheet А). Masts are needed at this stage in order to determine the angle of the shroud plates and to adjust the mast coats Assemble the gratings (Z52) and hatches with coamings (Q12, Q13, Q14 and Q15), see Fig.64 below. The scheme of the assembly and installing the grating is shown in Fig. 65 (below) Install blocks of the partners of the mainsail (G16) and foresail (G15) masts with the appropriate eye-bolts (see Fig. 63 below) Handle and install the mast coats N7 and N8. It s easier to handle and to adjust them, when putting on the proper mast. Please note at the installation angle of masts in the Drawings Set in the shroud plates 5 and 6 corresponding dead eyes and compress them with pliers for fixing (compress the part at the bottom under the dead eye) Install the main chain-wales N3 in the hull (Fig. 63, the increase in left top) and fore chain-wales N2 (Fig. 63, the increase in right top). On the right fore chain-wale N2R and left main chain-wale N3L install the eye-bolt 9 in according with Fig. 63, 64 and Drawings. Please note that no eye-bolts shall be put on those the symmetrical chain-wales On the chain-wales install the shroud plates 5, 6 with the inserted respective dead eyes and back stay plates 7. All shroud plates are fixed with nails to the hull (Fig. 63). Please note that the angle of inclination of each shroud plate matches the angle of inclination of the corresponding gear Glue the bottom sheer strake E15.1-E15.3 (see Fig. 63, 72) Place the cleats, eye-bolts and belaying pin racks on the deck, waterway and inner bulwarks in accordance with Fig. 64, 73 and Drawings. Try not to forget anything then it will be harder to get in place. The rings are inserted in some eye-bolts (9,10) (see pictures). These rings are made from wire with a diameter 0.6 mm on the drill bit of the diameter 1.5 mm (see drawing А below). In some places the engraving is made on the seats of the cleats and eye-bolts showing the direction of rotation of a detail around its axis Fig. 77 shows how to make the thimble from the workpiece 13. Workpiece 13 shall be bent and glued on a round rod Z Make the thimble in accordance with the preceding point, let in the caps Z25 in the tafferel and make the aft bar from the wire with diameter 1 mm (Z34) (see Fig. 64, upper left corner) with the thimble13 donned onto it. It is not necessary to glue the bar at this stage, otherwise it will be very difficult latter to tie the thimble. Also install the mounts of the stern flagpole N22 on the tafferel (see the same Fig.) Install the hatch of the caboose pipe of details O5 and O6 (see Fig. 64 lower right). Glue the caboose pipe from details Z27.1, Z27.2, Z28.1, Z28.2 and shutter pipe 30. Bend the legs on the shutter pipe before installing and fasten the shutter to the wooden pipe s insert Z28.2 at the nail. Drill out the appropriate hole for installing the caboose pipe on its hatch. We recommend gluing the pipe as a final step, so it doesn t interfere Install the boat keel blocks N10 and N11 with eye-bolts 25 (Fig. 64) Make the skylight in accordance with Fig. 65 (top). 9

11 7.35. Glue the bow pad below supporter E14 as shown in Fig. 68 and then glue pre-blackened and bent brass overlay on supporter 19 (Fig. 72) Glue the remaining part of the upper sheer strake K6.1, making the cutout in it for the pad of the supporter in the appropriate place (see Fig. 68). No cutouts shall be made for seat of the latrine U3 in it: it is overlapped. Attention! The following describes the making and installing of the latrine grating and cross-bar. This is a very delicate operation, as all details are thin and fragile. We highly recommend checking the correct installation of all details and the accuracy of bevels removing before gluing of details many times Make the upper cross-bar in accordance with Fig. 66 (top). Detail of cross-bar L1 is glued back to back with a shape board of crossbar M4. After that stick the upper overlap E11 of the outer part and the brass overlap 2. Glue from the inner side: the inner tops overlap E12 and on the tip glue overlap E13. After this, the upper bitt of the cross-bar is handled as shown in Fig. 66 (top) Glue from bottom the overlaps L3 and on the top the seats of the latrine U3 on the latrine grating L10 (Fig. 67) Adjust and handle the head timbers N4, N5, N6 in accordance with Fig , wet and very gently bend the latrine grating (see Fig ). Finally, the whole assembly should look as shown in Fig. 68. We highly recommend gluing only after adjusting of the head timbers and latrine grating Glue and fixate the upper cross-bars with a nail from wire Z33 (Fig ). The upper part of the cross-bar is laid just butt to cathead Q2, the forward part (detail E13) is fitted from the inside so that brass overlap 2 outside smoothly goes into the overlap Glue the base of the lower cross-bar L2 and the overlap 18 in accordance with Fig. 66 (bottom). Bend a bit, adjust and install the made lower cross-bar in accordance with Fig Assemble the cannon carriages with cannons and install them on the deck. The strapping of the guns shall be made separately and together with the eye-bolt attached to the bulwark. We recommend to fasten assembled and strapped carriages on the deck with pin of the wire. Attention! We recommend you to glue all strongly protruding fittings on the deck as late as possible, first assemble and adjust them without glue. Moreover, some particularly fragile items (e. g., a pump) can be set after setting of the spar and rigging Assemble the windlass (denoted as Y1 in Fig. 73), the pumps (Y2), the capstan (Y3), the binnacle (Y4) and the boat (Y5, its presence in the kit depends on the configuration of the kit) according the enclosed in the kit instructions. Install them on the deck. The capstan is placed on the plate O8 and fixed on it with a washer N9 (see Fig. 73). The binnacle is fixed to the deck using 4 eye-bolts that deliver with them together Assemble and install the belfry (Fig. 73, 74) and mast bitt (details Q5, O4, Fig. 73) Install the eye-bolt 25 in the tops of knightheads Q6, eye-bolts are located in the diametrical plane, i.e. the hole is seen in the side view (see Fig. 73) Assemble and install the anchors from details Z19 and Q16 in accordance with Fig. 73. The anchor ring is made of wire Z33 and served then Handle and install the tiller Q17. Scheme of binding the tiller is given in the Drawings Assemble and glue the external ladder from the details L8 and F18 (Fig. 73). As the steps are quite fragile, we recommend you make it as the final step, after the installation of the spars and rigging. The hull is ready to install spars and rigging. 8. Spars Sew the sails by pattern before fabrication of the spars and rigging, sew the boltrope to them along for the edge from thread Z44 and glue the reef becket Z59 from thread Z47. To imitate the connection lines of the bands use the thread Z47. Attention! The mast is made in accordance with drawings on the Worksheet А. Further, there are no references to these drawings during fabrication of the mast. Use Fig of photo instruction for visualization, during fabrication of the mast. When equipping spars with the rigging elements use the Schemes 1-18, located on 3 sheets Fabricate the mast of work pieces in accordance with table details mast from Specification workpiece from details mast from Specification Specification workpiece from details mast from Specification Specification workpiece from Specification R1 Z4 R6 U6 R11 U6 R2 Z5 R7 O16 R12 O16 R3 Z51 R8 O17 R13 P1 R4 Z3 R9 Z3 R14 U7 R5 U4 R10 U5 R15 N23 10

12 8.2. Fabricate the bowsprit R1, the jib-boom R2 and the Jack-staff R3. At the top of the jib-boom drill hole 0.6 mm to imitate a sheave Handle the hole in the bowsprit cap O7 for the jib-boom, set the eyebolts and the mount of the jack-staff on it (DO not install jackstaff) 8.4. Install on the bowsprit the bowsprit cap with eyebolts and mount of the jack-staff, the pad of the jib-boom, the stop plank G18 and jib-boom Fabricate the masts, topmasts, boom, fore gaff and main gaff with jaws and hoops, install the appropriate blocks, eyebolts and cleats on them. The hoops of the boom and gaff make from the strips of the black paper with width 1 mm. Drill the hole 0.6 mm for sheave through the tops of the topmasts to hold the topsail halyards. The upper leech of the sail S2 is tied to fore gaff R8, and the upper leech of the sail S4 to main gaff R ATTENTION! Equip the segarses N27 from the top of the main mast - 10 pieces Fabricate the cross-trees of masts from the appropriate trestle trees and cross-pieces and install the eyebolts on them Install the cheeks О10, stop planks G18, mast cross-trees in assembly and bolsters 015(prop for shrouds) on masts Fabricate the lower yards R6, R11 and topsail yards R7, R12; install the protective batten F21 and G17, the proper sails, blocks, thimbles and foot ropes on them Make the ring of parrel Z49 from the brass wire 0.5 mm. As the fixture use the drill 3.5 mm. Overlap of the beveled ends of wire to fluff the glue for metal or to solder. Put the ring of parrel Z49 on the jib-boom R ATTENTION! Before installing of the masts on the hull of the model we recommend: - to install on the main mast R9 the boom R14 and equip it the boom sheet Т44 and the sheet of the mainsail Т56. Put thimble of the boom sheet on the rod Z62, which can then be set into the hole on the inside of tafferel. - to install the main gaff R13 with tied sail S4on the main mast R9, the luff of which you need to bind to the segarses N27 on the main mast. - to install the fore gaff R8 with tied sail S2 on the fore mast R4, the luff of which you need to bind of lacing Z57 to the fore mast. As a result, the fully equipped fore mast and main mast can be put on the hull of model, but without topmasts. Attention! The mast shall be installed on the model in accordance with the fabrication steps of the rigging. 9. Rigging In the manufacture of the model rigging the master independently selects the ways of tying knots according to the convenience and with their ideas about its appearance of the real. In the instruction will be introduced the certain variants for tying knots of rigging, which may not be the best and comfortable option. All tackles of rigging and its belonging elements shown in Table 1. Before you install the rigging, necessary to prepare and to install on the mast required the individual elements of the rigging, if this has not been done earlier. The basic ways for binding of rigging is shown in the schemes 1-18, as well as the clear explanation of the terms for the rigging of the sail ships, which are listed below. SEIZING a special kind of bandage from a thin cable for a tight connection of two parallel cables (Scheme 3). KNOT stopper knot on the end of the rope or tackle made in a special way to strengthen them (Scheme 2). EYE SPLICE the loop made at the end of the ropes (Scheme 4). MOUSING stay-knot in the form of the pear, length 1/3 of the stay loop, diameter 3 of the stay diameter (Scheme 4). STAY COLLAR with the deadeye strap that mounts to the bowsprit, used to pull stays, water-stays and water-backstays. COLLAR OF A STAY the loop of stay, covering the top of mast. PENDANT a short rope with thimble or block on the end. STRAP- the rope portion wrapped around the block (Scheme 9). PURCHASE the rope passing through the block sheave (Scheme 9). LANYARD device for tensioning a ship s tackle when mounting. TACKLE a device for lifting loads (spars) STRETCHER an iron rod fastened to the shrouds of the upper deadeyes in order to keep the deadeyes in the same plane (Scheme 7). Attention! Before you install the rigging it is necessary to prepare and install the required individual elements of the rigging on the mast. When carrying out rigging use drawings (Worksheets B, C, D), Schemes 1-18 and Table 1. In the drawings in the circles are designated numbers of the rigging gear as in Table 1 (numbers of gear designation begin with the letter Т). 11

13 STANDING RIGGING (Worksheet B). Standing rigging of the bowsprit. The mast and rigging of the bowsprit we recommend installing in the following order: 1. Insert the bowsprit R1 in the bow hole so that the heel (rear end) of the bowsprit stood in the pad (Q4) opening. The bowsprit R1 must be complete with: bowsprit cap О7, jib-boom R2 with parrel Z49 put onto it, pad of jib-boom О19, eyebolts 9, stop planks G18, mount jack-staff (jackstaff is not installed yet) and thimbles 16. Stop planks of the gammoning to put on the attaching of the last. 2. Install the gammoning Т1 from thread Z39 (Drawing В.5). 3. Rig the bowsprit all the elements of the rigging (Drawings В.1, В.3, В.6) 4. Install water-stay Т2 and water-backstay Т3 port and starboard (Drawings В.1, В.3, В.6). To set a fixed distance between the dead eyes use the wire fixture (example in Fig. 76 of the photo instruction). Water-stay Т2 bind the knot timber hitch (Scheme 11) around the dead eye, which the help of the fixture is fixed relative to the dead eye of the bobstay collar mounted on the bowsprit. From dead eye one end of the thread pass through the hole in the knee of the head and with the little tension pull back to dead eye, where it connects with the other end of thread of the knot timber hitch. On this double water-stay overlay three seizings: the first near the hole in the knee of the head, the second - middle, the third near the dead eye over of the knot of thread s ends. Water-backstay Т3, also with the use of the fixture, bind around the dead eye the knot timber hitch and over knot on both ends of the thread overlay two seizings. One end of the thread, protruding from the second seizing, trimmed. The second end of the thread is passed through the hole of the hook, hooked to the eyebolt in the board, and also fixed the two seizings. All distances between dead eyes for making the fixtures are taken from the drawings. 5. Install the guy pendants Т4 (right, left). (Drawings В.1, В.3, В.6). Standing rigging of the masts. 1. Install foremast and mainmast assembled with sails, but without the topmasts. 2. Install spring stays Т5 with a length of mm on each side on top the foremast (Drawing В.8). 3. Fabricate the eye splices of fore and main shrouds (Scheme 4). Put the eye splices of the shrouds on top of the foremast and leave the lower ends free for now. Put the shrouds eye splices on the mast s tops in the following order (starting from the bow): - the first pair of starboard; the first pair of the port side; the second pair of starboard; the second pair of the port side, etc. 4. Fabricate the eye splice of the fore stay Т11. Put eye splice of fore stay on the top of mast over the eye splices of shrouds. Using the fixture for dead eyes bind in the lower end of stay the dead eye Z8. The stay is tensioned with the lanyard based between the dead eye of stay and dead eye appropriate collar of the stay on the bowsprit. (Drawings В.1, В.3, В.12, В.13). 5. Bind the upper dead eyes in the lower ends of the foremast shrouds. When setting the position of the dead eyes it is convenient to use the wire fixture for dead eye (Fig. 76 of the photo instruction). Run the lanyards of shrouds in accordance with the Scheme 5. When tensioning the shrouds, observe that it does not skew the mast. The distance between the dead eyes shall be taken from the drawing В Put the eye splices of the shrouds on top of the mainmast and leave the lower ends free. 7. Fabricate the eye splices of the main stays (right, left). Install the main stays Т12 over the eye splices of shrouds. (Drawings В.1, В.7, В.11, В.12, В.13). 8. Further, similarly as for the foremast, install and pull the main stays and shrouds of mainmast. 9. Install the stretchers and futtock staves on the shrouds foremast and mainmast. Put the cat harping off the shrouds between futtock staves (Drawing В.15). 10. Bind the ratlines parallel to the stretchers with step of 5mm vertically (Drawing В.1). 11. Install the mast backstays Т16, Т17. (Drawings В.1, В.9). Standing rigging of the topmast. 1. Install fore-topmast and main-topmast on the mast s tops (Drawing В.1). 2. Install the shrouds of the topmast Т18. The distance between thimbles 13 shall be taken from the drawing В.1, set lower and upper futtock staves Z54 on topmast shrouds of the foremast and mainmast. Between upper futtock staves put the cat harping off the shrouds of topmast, similarly the cat harping off the shrouds and bind the ratlines of the topmast shrouds parallel the futtock staves with step of 4 mm vertically (Drawings В.1, В.10). 3. Install fore topmast stay Т19 and main topmast stay Т21. (Drawings В.1, В.3, В.13). 4. Install fore back stays Т20 and main back stays Т22. (Drawings В.1, В.13). 5. Install the jib stay Т15 (Drawing В.1, В.13) 12

14 Installing of anchor The anchor is attached after installation of the standing rigging. Tie the anchor rope Z42 to the anchor ring with double fisherman s bend and fasten knot with seizing from light thread Z47. (Fig.73, Scheme 13). RUNNING RIGGING OF YARDS (Worksheet С) Running rigging of yards is carried out in the following order: 1. Carry out rigging of main gaff and main boom. (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.3). 2. Carry out rigging of fore gaff (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.4). 3. Install fore yard R6, rig throat halyards of fore yard Т23 and carry out fore yard lifts Т29. (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.5). 4. Install main yard R11, rig throat halyards of main yard Т25 and carry out main yard lifts Т30. (Drawings С.1, C.2, С.5). 5. Rig parrel of fore yard Т27 and parrel of main yard Т28. (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.5, С.10). 6. Using the rope parrel Т70 fasten the fore topsail yard with the attached sail S1 to the topmast. Rig halliard of fore topsail yard Т33 and carry out lifts of fore topsail yard Т35 (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.5, С.6). 7. Using the rope parrel Т71 fasten the main topsail yard with the attached sail S3 to the topmast. Rig halliard of main topsail yard Т34 and carry out lifts of main topsail yard Т36 (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.5, С.7). 8. carry out braces of the lower yards Т31, Т32 and topsail yards Т37, Т38 step-by-step (Drawings С.1, С.2, С.8, С.9). RIGGING OF THE SAIL 1. Fabricate the staysail S5, attach all the required blocks for it and set it on fore stay by means cringle-straps Z56 from thread Z45 (Scheme 15). Rig the halliard Т59, down hauler Т63 and sheets Т61 of staysail. (Drawings D.1, D.2, D.4, D.6). 2. Fabricate the jib S6, attach all the required blocks for it and set it on jib stay Т15 by means cringle-straps Z56 from thread Z45 (Scheme 15). Rig the halliard Т60, down hauler Т64 and sheets Т62 of jib. (Drawings D.1, D.2, D.4, D.6). 3. Rig the sheets, clew lines and bowlines of the square sails the foremast first, then the mainmast in accordance with Table 1 and drawings D.1, D.2, D Rig the sheets Т58 of fore and aft mainsail S4, sheets Т57 and clew lines Т52 of fore and aft foresail S2 in accordance with Table 1 and drawings D.1, D.2, D.5, D Attach the pennant with the help of a halyard carried through the hole in the acorn of the mainmast (Drawings С.1, С.2). 6. Attach the flag with the help of a halyard carried through the block shove on the gaff end (Drawings С.1, С.2). 7. Install the boat on the keel blocks of the deck and place on it the oars bonded in bunch. The building of the model is finished. You can download a colored version of the latest variant of the photo and text instruction in e-book format PDF from the website of our company Master-Korabel ( We believe that by carefully following our instruction, you will surely assemble the model and enjoy the build process and final result. Happy sailing and fair seas! Attention! The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes in the design of the kit, components and instruction without notice. 13

15 Specification of the kit the Schooner Polotsk, art. МК0302, scale 1:72 detail Name Number Size, mm Material Location Details on the plates A1-A9 Frames 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A10-A13 (R\L) Lugs (right\left side) 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A14R, A14L Bow reinforcements of the top part of keel frame (right, left side) 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A15-A23 (R\L) Ribs ( right\left side ) 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A24R, A24L Strengthening of the aft counter timbers (right, left side) 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A25-A28 Details of the aft conductor 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A29, A30 Keel blocks of the base (stern, bow) 1 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 A31 Bow overlaps of the bulwark 8 4 plywood MK0302-0A40 B1 Lower part of the keel frame 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B2 Upper part of the keel frame 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B3 Central stern counter timber 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B4-B8 (R\L) Aft counter timbers ( right\left side ) 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B9-B10 (R\L) Details of the aft conductor ( right\left side ) 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B11 Longitudinal rails of the base 2 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B12 Pattern for handle the bow reinforcements of the keel frame 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B13, B14 Bow conductor 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B15 Stem 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B16 Keel 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B17 Sternpost 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B18 Template for positioning of the cleats on the masts 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B19R, B19L 1st (upper) layer of the conductor for drilling the bow holes 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 B20R, B20L 4th outer layer of the conductor for drilling the bow holes 1 3 plywood MK0302-0B30 C1 Rough deck plywood MK0302-0C16 C2 Details of the garboard strakes plywood MK0302-0C16 D1 Rough tafferel plywood MK0302-0D16 D2R Rough planking of the bulwarks right plywood MK0302-1D16 D2L Rough planking of the bulwarks left plywood MK0302-0D16 D3R Board of the rough planking below of the gunwale starboard plywood MK0302-0D16 D3L Board of the rough planking below of the gunwale on the port side plywood MK0302-1D16 D4R Board of the rough planking groovy of the starboard plywood MK0302-1D16 D4L Board of the rough planking groovy of the port side plywood MK0302-0D16 D5R-D9R Boards of the rough planking of the starboard plywood MK0302-0D16 D5L-D9L Boards of the rough planking of the port side plywood MK0302-1D16 D10R Board of the rough planking compensative of the starboard plywood MK0302-0D16 D10L Board of the rough planking compensative of the port side plywood MK0302-1D16 D11 Insert of the wing transom plywood MK0302-1D16 D12-D15 Inserts whole of the transom plywood MK0302-1D16 D16-D19 (R\L) Inserts split of the transom (right\left side) plywood MK0302-1D16 D20R, D20L Side inserts of the stern counter (right, left side) plywood MK0302-1D16 Е1R, E1L Upper outer finishing planking of the bulwark (right, left side) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е2R, E2L Side overlap of the keel (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е3R, E3L Side overlap on the stem (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е4 False keel 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е5R, E5L Side overlap of the sternpost (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е6 End overlap of the sternpost 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е7 Stern end overlap of the keel 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е8 Back end of the helm 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е9 Lower end of the helm 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е10 Upper frames of the skylight 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0Е06 Е11R, E11L Top outer overlap on upper crossbar (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е12R, E12L Top inner overlap on upper crossbar (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е13R, E13L Front inner overlap on upper crossbar (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е14R, E14L Bow overlap under supporter (right, left side) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е15.1R-E15.3R Composite lower sheer strake right 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06 Е15.1L-E15.3L Composite lower sheer strake left 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0E06

16 F1-F12 Boards of the outer finishing planking under rubbing piece of the right side 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F13 Compensative board of the outer finishing planking of the left side 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F End face overlaps on the keel frames 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F15R, F15L Finishing planking of the transom (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F16R, F16L 3 rd outer layer of the conductor for bow holes (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F17R, F17L 3 rd inner layer of the conductor for bow holes (right, left) 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F18 Upper part of the ladder step of the outer side (this is stock) 10 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F19 Stop planks on the ends of the topsail yards and gaffs (this is stock) 6 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F20 Stop planks on the middle of the topsail yards (this is stock) 4 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 F21 Protective batten of the lower yards 14 0,6 anegry MK0302-0F06 G1-G12 Boards of the outer finishing planking under rubbing piece of the left side 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G13 Compensative board of the outer finishing planking of the right side 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G14 Outer rough planking of the stern counter 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G15 Block of the mast partners of the fore mast 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G16 Block of the mast partners of the main mast 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G17 Protective batten of the topsail yards 6 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 G18 Stop planks of the bowsprit 1 0,6 anegry MK0302-0G06 H1.1R, H1.2R Composite inner rough planking of the right side 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H1.1L, H1.2L Composite inner rough planking of the left side 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H2.1R-H2.2R Composite inner finishing planking of the right side 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H2.1L-H2.2L Composite inner finishing planking of the left side 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H3 Inner overlap on the stem 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H4 Inner finishing planking of the tafferel 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H5 Inner finishing planking of the stern counter 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H6R, H6L Inner rough layer of the cover of stern port (right, left) 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 H7R, H7L Inner finishing layer of the cover of stern port (right, left) 1 0,6 redwood MK0302-0H06 I1 Planking of the deck 1 0,6 maple MK0302-0I6 J1R, J1L Inner layer of the rubbing piece (right, left side) 1 0,6 fine-line black MK0302-0J06 J2R, J2L Outer layer of the rubbing piece (right, left side) 1 0,6 fine-line black MK0302-0J06 K1 Outer planking of the tafferel 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K2 Outer planking of the stern counter 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K3R, K3L Side stern overlap (right, left) 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K4R, K4L Side overlap of knee of the head (right, left) 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K5R, K5L Reinforcement of knee of the head (right, left) 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K6.1R- K6.8R Composite upper right sheer strake 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K6.1L- K6.8L Composite upper left sheer strake 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 K7R, K7L Outer finishing planking of the covers of stern ports (right, left) 1 0,6 black hornbeam MK0302-0K06 L1R, L1L Upper regel (right, left) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L2R, L2L Lower regel (right, left) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L3R, L3L Back support of the privy grating (right, left) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L4 Outer longitudinal walls of the skylight 2 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L5 Inner longitudinal bulkhead of the skylight 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L6 Outer cross walls of the skylight 2 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L7 Inner cross bulkheads of the skylight 2 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L8 Lower part of the ladder step of the outer side (this is stock) 10 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L9 Acorn of the flag staff (this is stock) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-0L12 L10 Latrine grating 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-1L12 L11R, L11L 2nd outer layer of the conductor for bow holes (right, left) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-1L12 L12R, L12L 2nd inner layer of the conductor for bow holes (right, left) 1 1,2 anegry MK0302-1L12 M1.1R-M1.4R Right composite gunwale 1 1,2 fine-line black MK0302-0M12 M1.1L-M1.4L Left composite gunwale 1 1,2 fine-line black MK0302-0M12 M2R, M2L Bow overlap (right, left) 1 1,2 fine-line black MK0302-0M12 M3 Tafferel gunwale 1 1,2 fine-line black MK0302-0M12 M4R, M4L Figure board of the upper regel (right, left) 1 1,2 black hornbeam MK0302-1M12 N1.1 - N1.4 Side belaying pin racks 2 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15

17 N2R, N2L Chain-walls of the foremast (right, left) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N3R, N3L Chain-walls of the mainmast (right, left) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N4 Lower head timber 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N5 Middle head timber 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N6 Upper head timber 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N7 Mast coat of the foremast 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N8 Mast coat of the mainmast 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N9 Retaining ring for capstan 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N10, N11 Boat keel blocks (bow, aft) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N12 Acorn for flag staff of the topmast 2 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N13 Acorn for stern flag staff 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N14 Boom pad 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N15 Knees of the boom pad 3 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N16L, N16L Upper knee of the head knee (right, left) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N17R, N17L Lower knee of the head knee (right, left) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N18 Fids of the topmast 2 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N19 Cleats on the shrouds (this is stock) 4 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N20 Central stop plank of the lower yards (this is stock) 4 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N21 Ends stop planks of the lower yards and boom 10 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N22 Fastening plank of the stern flag staff 2 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N23 Stern flag staff (workpiece) 1 1,5 pear wood MK0302-0N15 N24.1R-N24.4R Composite waterway for right side 1 0,6 pear wood MK0302-1N06 N24.1L-N24.4L Composite waterway for left side 1 0,6 pear wood MK0302-1N06 N25.1R-N25.4R Composite lining under waterway for right side 1 0,6 pear wood MK0302-1N06 N25.1L-N25.4L Composite lining under waterway for left side 1 0,6 pear wood MK0302-1N06 N26 Stern waterway 1 0,6 pear wood MK0302-1N06 N27 Wooden segarses 12 1,3 pear wood MK0302-2N13 N28R, N28L Gun carriage base (right, left) 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N29 Support pad of the gun carriage 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N30 Bottom board 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N31 Forward cross pad of the gun carriage with axis 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N32 Back cross pad of the gun carriage with axis 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N33 Wedge of the gun carriage 12 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N34 Forward wheel of the gun carriage 24 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 N35 Back wheel of the gun carriage 24 1,5 pear wood ААА4221 O1 Supporter (support knee of the cathead) 2 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O2 Bell rocker (ship s bell) 1 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O3 Belaying pin rack of the bow bitts 1 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O4 Belaying pin rack of the mainmast bitts 1 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O5 Coaming part of the hatch of the caboose pipe 1 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O6 Cross coaming of the hatch of the caboose pipe 2 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O7 Bowsprit cap 1 2,0 walnut wood MK0302-0O20 O8 Pad with flooring of the capstan 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O9R, O9L Foremast bibbs (right, left) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O10R, O10L Mainmast bibbs (right, left) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 О11 Trestle trees of the foremast and mainmast 4 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O12 Back cross trees of the foremast and mainmast 2 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O13 Forward cross trees of the foremast and mainmast 2 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O14 Trestle tree chucks of the foremast and mainmast 2 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O15 Trestle tree barges of the masts (workpiece) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O16 Topsail yard (workpiece) 2 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O17 Fore gaff (workpiece) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O18R, O18L Jaws of the fore gaff (right and left parts) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O19 Jib-boom pad 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O20.1R-O20.7R Side bitts for right side (numbering from the bow) 1 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 O20.1L-O20.7L Side bitts for left side (numbering from the bow) 4 2,0 pear wood MK0302-1O20 P1 Main gaff(workpiece) 1 2,5 pear wood MK0302-0P25 P2R, P2L Jaws of the main gaff (right and left parts) 1 2,5 pear wood MK0302-0P25 P3R, P3L Jaws of the main boom (right and left parts) 2 2,5 pear wood MK0302-0P25 P4 Guiding thimble of shroud (this is stock) 6 2,5 pear wood MK0302-0P25 Q1R, Q1L Lower part of the cathead (right, left side) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q2R, Q2L Upper part of the cathead (right, left side) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q2.1L, Q2.2L Left cathead (lower and upper parts) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30

18 Q3R, Q3L Bowsprit bitts (right, left) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q4 Bowsprit pad 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q5R, Q5L Mast bitts (right, left) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q6R, Q6L Top of the knightheads (right, left) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q7 Upper pad between knightheads 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q8R, Q8L Pad under anchors (right, left) 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q9 Belfry 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q10 Mast cap 2 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q11 Part of the fore hatch coaming and bow descent hatch 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q12 Part of the coaming of the stern descent hatch 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q13 Longitudinal coaming of the main hatch 2 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q14 Cross beam of the fore hatch coaming 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q15 Cross coaming of the hatch 6 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q16 Composite anchor rod 4 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q17 Tiller with blocks for tackle 1 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 Q18.1, Q18.2 Composite topmast achtkant, top, bottom (reserve version) 2 3,0 walnut wood MK0302-0Q30 U1.1-U1.3 Composite helm 1 4,0 anegry MK0302-0U40 U2.1-U2.4 Composite stem 1 4,0 anegry MK0302-0U40 U3R, U3L Latrine seats (right, left side) 1 4,0 walnut wood MK0302-1U40 U4 Fore topmast (workpiece) 1 4,0 pear wood MK0302-2U40 U5 Main topmast (workpiece) 1 4,0 pear wood MK0302-2U40 U6 Lower yard (workpiece) 2 4,0 pear wood MK0302-2U40 U7 Boom (workpiece) 1 4,0 pear wood MK0302-2U40 W1 Skylight glass 2 1,1 plexiglass MK0302-0W10 Details consisting from multiple parts along the hull, for example K6.1R-K6.8R, numbered from bow to stern. detail Name Details made by chemical milling Number Size, mm Material Place location 1 Décor of the tafferel with the ship name brass МК R, 2L Overlap on the upper cross-bar (right, left) brass МК Decorative overlap on the wind transom brass МК Eagle the national emblem on tafferel brass МК Hounds of the deadeyes 2.5 mm brass МК Hounds of the deadeyes 3.5 mm brass МК Hounds of the back stays brass МК Large eyebolts (this is stock) 3 1,2х4х0.5 brass МК Middle eyebolts (this is stock) 49 0,8х4х0.5 brass МК Small eyebolts 64 0,6х4х0.5 brass МК Hooks 12 0,8х4,7х0.5 brass МК Eyebolts for fixing of the covers of stern gun ports 4 0,5х2,7х0.5 brass МК Two halves of the thimbles with a bridge 34 1,2х2,4х0.5 brass МК Strap with the hook of simple-sheave block 4 mm (this is stock) brass МК Strap with the hook of double-sheave block 4 mm brass МК Strap with the hook of simple-sheave block 5 mm brass МК Plate on the base brass МК R, 18L Pad on the lower cross-bar (right, left) brass МК R, 19L Overlap on the supporter (right, left) brass МК R, 20L Upper overlap of the head knee (right, left) brass МК R, 21L Lower overlap of the head knee (right, left) brass МК , 22.2 Upper rudder hinges brass МК , 23.2 Middle rudder hinges brass МК , 24.2 Lower rudder hinges brass МК Eyebolts 9 0,6х4х0.3 brass МК Pins for mounting of the covers of stern ports (this is stock) 4 0,8х4х0.3 brass МК Strap with the hook of simple-sheave block 3.5 mm (this is stock) brass МК Mount of the stem details type Horseshoe brass МК Oar port hinges brass МК Caboose pipe shutter brass МК Hinges of the bow gun ports brass МК Mount of the windlass stopping board on the belfry brass МК Windlass stopping boards brass МК Attention: some details are given more than used in the kit

19 Separate parts (Z) detail Name Number Size, mm Material Place location Z1 Main plate 1 thickness 3 CDF separately Z2 Insert of the head knee 1 thickness 3 black hornbeam container Z3 Workpiece of the spar for masts 2 n6x300 birch wood In the block Z4 Workpiece of the spar for bowsprit 1 n6x160 birch wood In the block Z5 Workpiece of the spar for jib-boom (laser-cut) 1 3x111 pear wood In the block Z6 Deadeyes 8 n 2.5 boxwood, walnut container Z7 Deadeyes 32 n 3.5 boxwood, walnut container Z8 Deadeyes 4 n 5 boxwood, walnut container Z9 Simple block 2.5 мм pear/boxwood container Z10 Simple block 3.5 мм pear/boxwood container Z11 Simple block 4 мм 8 4 pear/boxwood container Z12 Simple block 5 мм pear/boxwood container Z13 Double block 3.5 мм pear/boxwood container Z14 Double block 4 мм 18 4 pear/boxwood container Z15 Double block 5 мм 2 4 pear/boxwood container Z16 Block with 3 sheaves 3,5 мм pear/boxwood container Z17 Wooden cleat pear wood container Z18 Pins 42 8 brass container Z19 Anchor 2 28x40 casting, metal container Z20 Gun barrel casting, metal container Z21 Bell 1 n 5x6.8 brass container Z22 Hawses 4 n 2.5x4x6 brass container Z23 Decorative nails Х10 brass container Z24 Nails for rough planking Х10 anodized steel container Z25 Pistons 2 n 1.5x2.5x2 brass container Z26 Parrel trucks 20 n 2 plastic container Z27.1, Z27.2 Compound caboose pipe (2 parts) 1 n 4 pipe, brass container Z28.1, Z28.2 Wood insert of the caboose pipe (2 parts) 1 n 3 wood container Z29-Z32 Flags: jack, gaff s ensign, ensign, pennant 1 different cloth container Z33 Wire 1 n 0.6x1500 brass container Z34 Wire 1 n 1.0x50 brass container Z35 Black rigging thread 1м n 1.0 polyester container Z36 Black rigging thread 2м n 0.8 polyester container Z37 Black rigging thread 10м n 0.6 polyester container Z38 Black rigging thread 10м n 0.5 polyester container Z39 Black rigging thread 15м n 0.4 polyester container Z40 Black rigging thread 15м n 0.3 polyester container Z41 Black rigging thread 20м n polyester container Z42 Light thread for anchor rope 1м n 1.3 polyester container Z43 Light rigging thread 2м n 0.6 polyester container Z44 Light rigging thread 10м n 0.5 polyester container Z45 Light rigging thread 20м n 0.4 polyester container Z46 Light rigging thread 40м n 0.3 polyester container Z47 Light rigging thread 40м n /2 polyester container Z48 Hoops x1 black paper to make Z49 Jib parrel [recommended handle up to n 0.5 mm] 1 n 0.6 wire to make Z50 Cotton cloth for the sails 1 550x300 percale box Z51 Round rod with tapered ends 4 n 2x65 birch wood box Z52 Workpiece for grating 23 3x1x55 pear wood container Z53 Shroud futtock stave 8 n 0.6 wire to make Z54 Futtock stave for topmast [recommended handle up to n 0.5 mm] 8 n 0.6 wire to make Z55 Robands for binding of square sails drawing n 0.2 thread Z47 to make Z56 Cringle-strap for mounting of jib and stay sail drawing n 0.4 thread Z45 to make Z57 Lacing for mounting fore and aft mainsail and foresail to gaff drawing n 0.2 thread Z47 to make Z58 Lacing for mounting fore and aft foresail to mast drawing n 0.4 thread Z45 to make Z59 Reef backet drawing n 0.2 thread Z47 to make Z60 Boltrope drawing n 0.5 thread Z44 to make Z61 Plank for assessing of the handling of rough planking 1 1.5x5x250 wood separately Z62 Bracket of the boom sheet drawing n 1.0 brass to make

20 Spar(R) detail Name Number Size, mm Material Place location R1 Bowsprit (end on length to the pad of jib-boom is black) 1 under drawings wood to make R2 Jib-boom 1 under drawings wood to make R3 Jack-staff 1 under drawings wood to make R4 Foremast (top with bibbs, topmast-trestles, cross-trees and cap to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make Fore topmast (achtkants, top with topmast-trestles, cross-trees and R5 cap and и heel at the area of the top of mast to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R6 Fore yard (to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R7 Fore topsail yard (to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R8 Fore gaff (with jaws to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R9 Mainmast(top with bibbs, topmast-trestles, cross-trees and cap to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make Main topmast (achtkants, top with topmast-trestles, cross-trees R10 and cap and и heel at the area of the top of mast painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R11 Main yard (to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R12 Main topsail yard (to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R13 Main gaff (with jaws to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R14 Boom (with jaws to be painted in black) 1 under drawings wood to make R15 Stern flagstaff 1 under drawings wood to make Sails (S) detail Name Number Size mm Material Place location S1 Fore topsail 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make S2 Fore and aft foresail 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make S3 Main topsail 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make S4 Fore and aft mainsail 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make S5 Fore staysail 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make S6 Jib 1 under drawings cotton cloth to make For sewing sails used light rigging thread Z47, boltrope Z44, reef backet Z47. Separate set(y) Y1 Windlass 1 6.8х41 different AAB 4174/0302 Y2 Pump (set of 2 pieces) 1 4х17 different AAA4186 Y3 Capstan 18 mm 1 n 14х18 different AAB4182 Y4 Binnacle on 1 compass 1 21х5,2х15 different AAB4280 Y5 Boat (in some options not present) 1 75 different MK0102 In each set are their plates, drawings, numbering of details and assembly instruction.

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