THE AMERICAN FISHING SCHOONER

Transcription

1 THE AMERICAN FISHING SCHOONER Technical Characteristics Scale: 1/4 = 1 ft. ( 1: 48 ) Length: 33 Width: 5-1/2 Height: 28 Manufactured by Model Shipways Kit No. MS2109 BENJAMIN W. LATHAM The northward spring migrations of the American mackerel (Scomber scombrus, L.) gave rise to one of the most interesting and speculative facets of the New England fisheries in the second half of the 19th century and the early decades of the 20th. Many methods were developed to capture these wily and unpredictable fish, the most successful being the purse-seine, a large net which was set in a ring around a mackerel school and then closed by pursing, or drawing its bottom edge together with a purse line, thus forming a bag from which the trapped fish were baled with large dipnets. The development of the purse-seine also led to the development of the seine boat, a large doubleended boat from which the net was set. This boat supposedly evolved from the New Bedford whale boat in both form and construction, but was soon modified and enlarged as seine nets became larger. Attendant to this technology was a wide variety of boat and net gear of special design. Because the schooners themselves were specially rigged and fitted for these operations, they assumed a distinctive appearance. (Continued on page 3)

2 Instruction Manual The American Fishing Schooner Benjamin W. Latham Noank Mackerel Seiner, 1902 By Erik A. R. Ronnberg Jr., 1973 Plank-On-Bulkhead Construction and Overall Manual Update By Ben Lankford, 1994 Model built by Bob Bruetsch The more you read about the New England fisheries, the more fascinating their history becomes. Unfortunately, the few substantial reference works available are mostly out of print, and one must either spend large sums at rare-book shops, or ransack libraries to get at them. The easier volumes to find are those by Church, Chapelle, and Story all excellent reading. Goode s The Fisheries and Fishery Industries of the United States is the great work on fishing methods as practiced in the 19th century. It is now quite rare, but well worth the trouble to locate. Chapelle s book, The American Fishing Schooner, is certain to become the standard reference on fishing schooners, their design, and construction. The beginner would do well to consult Campbell s The Neophyte Shipmodeller s Jackstay and its excellent references. These and other books are listed in the bibliography at the end of this manual. Copyright 2005 Model Expo, A Divisions of Model Shipways, Inc N 29th Terrace Hollywood, FL

3 (continued from front cover) The schooners of the mackerel fleet varied considerably in size at the end of the 19th century. Prior to 1880, vessels suitable for this work usually measured tons, but with the introduction of new hull types and incentives to increase the sizes of new schooners, the early 1900 s saw schooners of 120 tons, and more, being fitted out for mackerel seining. Auxiliary power was introduced; nets and boats increased in size; double-crews and gear were carried in the largest vessels; finally, in the 1920 s, the seine boats themselves were fitted with engines. This last innovation was made necessary by the nets, which had become so large they could not be set and pursed quickly enough under oars alone: if an average seine net measured 203 fathoms long by 21 fathoms deep in 1880, by 1910 it had grown to 235 by 23 fathoms, and in the 1920 s, when engine-powered boats became common, the seine net measured 300 by 24 fathoms. The schooner Benjamin W. Latham was designed for Captain Henry Langworthy of Noank, Connecticut, by Thomas F. McManus of Boston. She was built in the shipyard of Tarr & James at Essex, Massachusetts, and was launched on October 30, She was a very small mackerel seiner for her day, measuring only 72 tons gross; the same fishery employed vessels nearly twice her tonnage. Latham s hull is more like the spoon-bow type than anything else. At the time of her building, this shape was a relatively new development for fishermen. This design reflects the influence of B. B. Crowninshield who introduced this hull type to the fishing fleet two years previously with his first example schooner, Rob Roy. Also unusual was the knuckle at the forward edge of the keel, an experiment which few builders seemed inclined to copy in later vessels. This was a period when owners were anxious to see their vessels fitted with keels that were straight, not rockered, the latter characteristic having caused many schooners to slip and fall down on the marine railways when hauled out. Latham s keel may have been over-designed for this reason. Nearly every vessel in the Noank fishing fleet was fitted for mackerel seining in the early 1900 s, and this undoubtedly was the principle activity of Benjamin W. Latham. First registered as a sailing vessel, she seems to have been fitted with a 48-horsepower gasoline engine sometime in her second or third season. This would have dictated that her propeller shaft be fitted off-center, either to port or to starboard as shown on the plans. Since a seiner bailed the seine (removed the fish from the net) to starboard, it would seem wise to have had the screw to port to avoid fouling the nets. In keeping with most fishermen, Latham s career goes mostly undocumented, except for meager scraps of information yielded reluctantly by officials of customs and registry documents. She is known to have had accommodations for a crew of fifteen, and because of her size, she was a one-boater (towed one seine boat). If the seine boat was a 40-footer, it would always have been towed astern, since there was no deck room for it aboard the schooner. In 1906, Latham was re-registered at New York and operated out of the Fulton Fish Market. What sort of fishing she did at this time is not known, although it seems likely that she was converted to dory trawling. Very likely, she would have been cut down in rig in the 1920 s, working mainly under power thereafter. What she looked like in 1939 under Puerto Rican ownership is not known, nor is the nature of her work. She was lost in 1943 off San Juan, Puerto Rico. 3

4 CONSTRUCTION STAGES AND TABLE OF CONTENTS Brief History Cover, pg 3 Introduction/Credits Pg 2 Before You Begin Pg 5 How to Work With the Plans & Parts Pg 6 What You ll Need to Start Construction Pg 7 Painting & Staining the Model Pg 8 Stage A: Framing the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Pg Bending Wood Pg Center Keel Assembly Pg Installing the Keel-Stem & Sternpost Pg Installing the Bulkheads Pg Installing the Transom Pg Covering the Mast Slots Pg Drilling the Rudder Stock Hole Pg Installing Horn Timber Cheeks Pg Installing the Planksheer Pg Installing the Hawse Timbers Pg 13 Stage B: Planking the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Pg Getting Started Pg Planking Battens & Belts Pg Planking Butts Pg Spiling Pg Fastening the Planks Pg Planking the Outer Hull Pg Plank Variations within a Belt Pg Planking the Transom Pg Planking the Bulwarks Pg Planking the Deck Pg 17 Stage C: Completing the Basic Hull Structure Pg Correcting & Sanding Pg Natural Wood/Double-Planking Option Pg 19 Stage D: Mounting the Hull Pg Mounting Board with Two Pedestals Pg Launching Ways Pg 19 Stage E: Adding the Hull Details Pg Timberheads (or Bulwark Stanchions) Pg Main Rail Pg Rail Moldings Pg Buffalo Chock Pg Monkey Rails Pg Main Pinrails Pg Boom Jiber Box Pg Scuppers Pg Rudder Pg Cleats & Snatch Cleats Pg 21 Bowsprit Pg 22 Hawse Pipes Pg 22 Capstans Pg 22 Skid Battens Pg 22 Deck & Rail Fittings Pg 22 Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction Pg General Information Pg The Importance of Scale Pg Tapering Masts & Spars Pg Curved Spars Pg Lower Mast Fittings Pg Topmast Fittings Pg Stepping the Masts Pg Gaffs & Booms Pg Jaws & Goosenecks Pg Ironwork Pg 29 Stage G: General Rigging Information Pg Cordage Pg Treating the Lines Pg Differentiating Between the Lines Pg Using Beeswax Pg Sails: To-be or Not To-be Pg Making the Sails Pg Rigging the Model With Sails Pg Rigging the Model Without Sails Pg Flags Pg Rigging & Block Sizes for Actual Vessel Pg 34 Rigging & Block Diameter Conversion Table Pg 34 Stage H: Standing Rigging Pg Chainplates Pg Rigging the Bowsprit Pg Turnbuckles Pg Footropes & Manropes Pg Fore & Main Shrouds Pg Belaying Pin Racks Pg Ratlines Pg Lantern Boards Pg Spring Stay Pg Jumbo Stay Pg 38 Jib Stay Pg 38 Spreader Lifts Pg 38 Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds Pg 38 Main Topmast Stay Pg 38 Pullback Stay Pg 38 Main Boom Footropes Pg 38 Stage I: Running Rigging Pg Blocks Pg Jumbo, Fore & Main Boom Rigging Pg Fore & Main Gaff Rigging Pg Head Sail Rigging Pg Fore & Main Topsail Rigging Pg Staysail Rigging Pg Mooring & Other Lines Pg 42 Bibliography Pg 44 Acknowledgments Pg 46 4

5 BEFORE YOU BEGIN This kit differs from most in that its large scale (1/4 = 1 ft.) will permit the model maker to fabricate or scratch build most parts with great accuracy, and in some cases, duplicate full-size construction or techniques in miniature. For this reason, the hows and whys of the vessel s building and operation will be explained in greater detail than is otherwise customary. The novice who attempts this kit should accept this challenge to the full limits of his or her abilities. Aspects of construction which may possibly seem too difficult or superfluous to the beginner will be mentioned as such in that particular discussion. While the modeling progresses, you will see where you may want to substitute some of the kit fittings with your own creations. By all means try them, especially if you think you can improve the model. The worst that can happen is a little lost time. But, the experience gained will be most valuable for future projects. For further reading on modeling techniques refer to the Bibliography at the back of this manual. Please note that while all of the necessary materials for a beautiful model have been provided, some detailing work has been left to the imagination of the individual modeler. For instance, fishing nets can be made from darkened or stained cheesecloth; knives and hatches from scrap wood and metal; fish cleaning trays from scrapwood; and so on. Also, the kit will contain the minimal number of rigging and block sizes needed for completing the model. You may want to buy other rigging line or scratch build blocks to make the model as close to scale as possible. The detailing possibilities are endless and to provide for all of them with individual parts would result in a kit far too pricey for most modelers. Assuming a modeler works with reasonable skills about 20 hours per week as a hobby, the Benjamin W. Latham model should take about 5 months to complete (roughly 400 hours). The most time-consuming tasks will be planking the hull and completing the masts and rigging. Of course, the time will be extended if any scratch-built items are substituted. But, don t let time govern your progress. The best approach for the beginner, and experienced modeler alike, is to tackle the job as a series of small projects which are conveniently laid out for you in stages. So, don t look too far ahead, or you may become discouraged. Assume each small project is an end unto itself and work on it until it is correct. You will ultimately do a better job on that particular part, and the overall completed model will approach perfection. Beginners, no doubt, will have some problems, especially if this is the first modeling attempt. The important thing, however, is to learn from making mistakes. Seek help from more experienced modelers or the excellent reference material that is available to you. And regardless of how the model is turning out, finish it completely. Improvement takes experience; it cannot be gained with half-completed models. It would be advisable to follow the instructions in sequence until you gain the experience to work up your own procedures. Have fun with the project and think about how nice it will look on display when it is completed. Good Luck! 5

6 HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS AND PARTS Before starting model construction, examine the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit will serve two purposes. First, it will let you determine that all parts have been supplied as listed. And second, you ll be surprised at just how quickly handling the parts allows you to better understand the kit requirements. Try to visualize how every part will look on the completed model. Also, determine ahead of time what must be done first. The instructions will help you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge of the plans at the outset is essential. It is suggested that small fittings and hardware be sorted into labeled containers to avoid loss during building. 1. The Plans The Latham model kit contains the following plans: 1) Hull & Lines Plan Sheet 1 of 4 2) Rigging Plan Sheet 2 of 4 3) Hull, Mast & Fitting Details Plan Sheet 3 of 4 4) Seine Boat & Purse Seine (rev. 1981) Plan Sheet 4 of 4... and the following 1993 plans: 5) Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull Construction Sheet 1 of 2 6) Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull Construction Sheet 2 of 2 Many sketches throughout this manual further illustrate the various stages of construction. The Benjamin W. Latham kit is manufactured to a scale of 1/4 = 1 ft. Each plan sheet is drawn to the exact scale that the model is to be built, except for the rigging plan and some details which have been enlarged for clarity. Therefore, most dimensions can be lifted directly off the plans by using a set of draftsman dividers or by using a tick strip, which is simply a piece of paper used to pick up the dimensions (a roll of calculator tape works very well). Lay your paper strip down on the plan and carefully mark each dimension to be transferred with a sharp pencil. Then lift these measurements by placing the strip down on the wood or item to be made to scale and transferring them. You should also obtain a 1/4-inch-to-thefoot architect s scale, since all dimensions on the plans are full ship sizes. An outline that lists rigging and block diameters for the Latham is on page 34, along with a Diameter Conversion Table for converting the full ship rigging and block sizes to 1/4-inch scale. The table provides a formula for converting diameters to 1/4 scale. Several conversions have already been calculated for standard diameters. Try to maintain the scale size when modeling. As scales get smaller, the tendency is to build on the heavy side, possibly from concern about breaking small parts. Models look best, however, if built to exact scale and even to thinner-than-scale, which should be the case for a rigging line if the exact size is unavailable. 2. Making Allowances Along the Way Try to be exact when following the plans, but use common sense along the way. You may need to make adjustments or allow for small differences in how your model is shaping up: perhaps your mast has too much rake (the angle at which it sits). When lines go to belaying points they should not drape over parts or conflict with other lines. If necessary, move a belaying point or a fairlead block. In other words, put yourself on the schooner and use your judgement. That is how the early ship riggers worked! 3. Understanding the Hull Lines Beginners may not be familiar with hull lines. They are shown on the Hull & Lines plan 1 of 4. The buttock lines (they are the vertical lines on the body plan and shown as curved lines on the profile view) are simply vertical longitudinal sections taken through the hull. The waterlines, or half-breadths, are horizontal planes, and the section lines numbered 1 to 22 are vertical transverse sections. All of these lines define the hull shape and are used by the draftsman to fair (create regular even curves) the hull form. With the plank-on-bulkhead construction, the laser cut bulkheads define the hull form. These are based on the hull lines, but are made smaller to allow for the thickness created by adding the planks. 4. Cast-Metal Fittings The Benjamin W. Latham kit is supplied with Britannia metal, brass, as well as wooden fittings to eliminate problems in making such parts from scratch. The Britannia metals are a great improvement over the white metal that was used in some older kits. Unlike pewter, Britannia does not contain lead, so there are no possible corrosion problems. Many of these fittings, however, will require final finishing before they are suitable for installing on the model. Before painting the cast-metal fittings, clean them up by removing all the mold-joint flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cut the flash, then sand with fine sandpaper. It is also suggested that you clean the fittings thoroughly with warm soapy water before applying primer. Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry before painting. 5. Soldering & Working with Brass Some fittings for the Latham model, such as mast bands, must be made from brass (see figure 1a). Therefore, a certain amount of metal working and soldering will be required. Brass strips are included in the kit. The brass sheet can be cut with a small pair of tin snips or heavy scissors. Heavier brass will require the use of a jeweler s saw. After cutting, all edges should be smoothed with needle files and fine wet-or-dry sandpaper. When cutting slivers from the brass sheet, you may notice that shears tend to bend the sheet sideways, as well as curl the piece. To straighten the edges in both directions, grip with a pair of small pliers. Drilling holes in brass can be accomplished using small drills and a pin vise, which is a slow process. A Dremel Moto-Tool mounted on a Dremel drill press is ideal. This tool is worth the cost. Prior to drilling, use a small centerpunch to start; otherwise, these small drills tend to wander. Lubricate with a light oil and drill very slowly to avoid breakage. When using the Dremel, clamp the pieces in place or hold them down with a stick of wood. The brass will be very hot, so keep your fingers off! Soft Soldering: The key here is to keep all brass parts clean. Use a solvent, or lightly sand, or both. Keep your fingers off to avoid grease spots. Soldering is easy if care is taken to properly set up your work area first. Use jigs or other holding devices, so the parts do not move around. Soldering can be done with a small torch or pencil soldering iron. First, add flux to the joint, just enough to do the job. The solder will flow where the flux is applied. Next, heat the joint. This sequence is important. The larger the parts, the longer it will take to heat the brass before the solder will flow. If you get too much solder on the joint, file it off with needle files. You ll want the joint to look like the real thing, not a big glob of fillets. 6

7 Silver Solder: If extra strength is desired, and also to avoid the lead in softer solder, silver solder can be used. A propane torch is a must, as the melting point of silver solder is much higher. Clean the metal and apply the flux (liquid silver solder flux is better than the borax type). Cut a very small piece of solder and lay it next to the joint. This is necessary because, unlike soft solder, silver solder will not break away from the roll. It tends to ball up on the end. Next, heat the joint and solder it together. When the correct temperature is reached the solder will jump into the joint job completed! Be careful to remove the heat as soon as possible, because the brass also will be near its melting point. Figure 1a illustrates how to make mast bands, eyebolts and rings. Rings can be soldered after they are used on the model, or not soldered at all, unless there is some strain on the ring from rigging. FIG. 1a - Making Mast Bands, Eyebolts and Rings MAST BANDS Flux/solder all joints Real ship EYEBOLTS After soldering, drill, cut and file to shape Pins to hold parts in place Form around drill or rod Solder Cut off as required Wood jaws in vise Form around dowel or drill Cut from sheet brass WHAT YOU LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION The following tools and supplies are recommended for the construction process. Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites. A. Knives & Saws 1. Hobby knife with No. 11 blades 2. Coping saw (or jeweler s saw frame) and fine blades 3. Razor saw B. Files Set of needle files C. Carving Tools Small chisel for carving center keel rabbet D. Sharpening Stone Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp E. Clamps 1. A few small C-clamps 2. Several wooden clothespins 3. Rubber bands F. Wire Cutters & Tin Snips For cutting fine wire & chain; for cutting brass sheet G. Boring Tools 1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80 2. A pin vise 3. Larger bits: 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 H. Miscellaneous 1. Tack hammer 2. Tweezers (a few) 3. Small fine pointed scissors 4. Miniature pliers a. small round for forming rings and eyes b. flat nose (with serrated jaws) 5. Draftsman s dividers 6. Proportional dividers 7. Bench vise (small) with own base for moving around 8. Soldering iron with 1/8 diameter tip and/or propane torch a. solder b. flux 9. Sewing thread (for seizings & lanyards; other rigging in kit) a. black b. beige Beeswax (for treating rigging lines) 1/2 or 3/4 masking tape I. Sandpaper Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit) J. Finishing: Paint brushes 1. Fine point for details 2. 1/4 to 1/2 flat square for hull K. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in the Painting & Staining section and throughout instructions.) 1. Paints 2. Primer 3. Stains/varnish 4. White or Carpenter s (yellow) wood glue 5. Five-minute epoxy 6. Super glue L. Cotton or linen cloth: (fine weave) for sails, if added M. Plastic: Plastic sheet or glass for windows, skylights Wrap wire around rod Saw or cut with hobby knife RINGS Bend in line solder Note about Glues: White or Carpenter s yellow wood glue will suffice for most of the model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate (Super) glue such as Jet, can be used for quick adhesion and is ideal for dabbing onto a rigging seizing to hold it in place. The best cyanoacrylate glue for most applications is a medium viscosity gap-filling type. The watery-thin type is recommended to fill a narrow crack by capillary action and for quick setting of hull planking. 7

8 8 PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Painting of various small parts, masts and spars should be accomplished before they are installed on the model. Painting sequence must be a well thought out procedure, otherwise you may have difficulty as you proceed with assembly. For example, it is easier to paint a deckhouse or hatch coaming before it is glued to the deck. Put the parts aside until they are ready to be installed. Proper timing in application of finishes and the use of masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces. In the end, following these general suggestions will be to your advantage. 1. Preliminaries Rub down all external surfaces with 220-grit dry sandpaper and wipe off all dust thoroughly. Give all unprimed surfaces two coats of primer and already-primed surfaces one more coat. A very light sanding is recommended after the last coat of primer, but don t sand down to bare wood, or the water will raise the grain and make a terrible mess. With clean hands, a soft brush, and a clean, soft rag or tack rag, gently dust and wipe off the hull. Choosing paint: Consider carefully the kind of paint you will use to paint your model and the methods of application that suit you best. Is the paint that you have chosen compatible with the primer previously applied, or does it blister, crinkle, or turn to alligator hide? Better find out! Prime a test block of wood with the same primers used on the model. When dry, apply a coat of the brand of paint you have chosen. If the two don t fight as described above, you may consider it safe to proceed. For hand brushing, use a flat-finish paint. Glossy finishes are not desirable. A satin finish will give the most satisfactory results, but the undercoat paint should be dead flat. Use model paints such as the Historic Marine Colors made by Model Shipways and sold at the Model Expo website: Are you ready for a real top quality paint job? Although slightly expensive, an airbrush is well worth the investment. Model Expo sells a very affordable airbrush at Airbrushes are easy to use, work well with all the paints mentioned, and do an exceptional job. The air brush throws a pattern only about 1/2 wide, but obviously, you would still need a large work space such as a house workshop or isolated room. Whether you prefer to paint by brush or airbrush, try Model Shipways paints. These paints are a very fine and versatile line of ready-mixed water based colors. The colors were specially developed to emulate the paints used by historic ships. They are subdued in tones and their properties make both spraying and brushing techniques easy to master. Masking off surfaces: It can be very tricky to mask off the surfaces you don t want to paint. Some brands of masking tape are absolutely no good because they allow paint to bleed under them, so be selective. For masking off fine stripes or lines, such as the cove line, it is best to use drafting tape, such as the Chart Pak brand. It is available in widths as fine as 1/32 and 1/64. This tape has very good adhesion and will not bleed when applied firmly. You may also use black plastic electrician s tape. Spray Painting: Spraying techniques work best with fast-drying lacquers. You will find many brands of paint available in aerosol cans which can give quite good results. Test them on a wood block as previously described before using them on the model. Brush painting: Painting with fine, soft-bristle brushes is probably best for the beginner. And many highly skilled modelmakers prefer the brushed-on technique because a brushed surface, with its fine imperfections, imparts a more life-like appearance to the model. Choosing Brushes: Brushes must be very soft and of the highest quality. Artist grade sable or synthetics are the best. They should be a littler wider for painting the surface. A too narrow brush will cause excessive streaking of the finish. Brushing Technique: When applying paint or stain with a brush, lay down one thin coat in a single stroke, then coat the adjacent areas with single strokes. Never make strokes over fresh paint, or you will tear up the surface. Let the paint dry to a hard finish before applying a second coat. Scribing the Waterline: One method of scribing is to level the hull (mount it so the waterline is parallel to the bench top) and mark the waterline using a height gauge and a sharp scriber point (see figure 1b). It is then a matter of painting the bottom and topside colors precisely to this mark, with or without the aid of masking tape. The scribe line acts somewhat as a barrier to paint transgressions, but a steady hand is needed for this operation. A second method is to spray or brush on the bottom color, guessing roughly where the waterline will lie and deliberately painting beyond this arbitrary boundary. The waterline is then scribed on this overlapping coat of bottom paint and the topside coat is painted down to the line, covering previous excesses. Masking tape can be used as a substitute for shaky hands when painting to the line. 2. Color Scheme By the early 1900 s, the era had long passed when a fishing schooner, to quote Chapelle, was dolled up like the little blue wagon. Then, black hulls, grey decks and white superstructures were the most common color scheme. There were a few variations, however, and always the chance for a little gold leaf and tinsel. Hull: The bottom of a schooner very likely had a coat or two of Tarr & Wonson s copper paint, then a deep reddish brown. The topsides were black (add a drop or two of red or umber to soften intensity) with gilt scrollwork and cove moldings (these were sometimes yellow, depending on the budget). It may be wise to paint the cove molding prior to painting the topsides black. Whether yellow or gold suits your fancy, brush the paint into the molding (or where the molding should be, if you omitted it) and allow it to dry thoroughly. Mask over the cove with 1/32 drafting tape (1/64 is more to scale but tricky to handle) and press it down gently, using a piece of metal rod or some similar burnishing tool. Paint over the topsides with black and remove the tape gently as soon afterward as possible, peeling at an acute angle to the surface. Tops & Inboard Sides of Main & Monkey Rails: paint white; outboard edges should be black. Bulwarks (Inboard): paint white from rails to decking. Structures ranging from Bitts to Trunk Cabin: usually painted all same color: white (or any color that suits you, as captain of your ship) Hatch Covers: color of the deck.

9 Grub (or Great) Beam: often painted white for visibility at night. Deck: could be light grey, although some vessels decks were painted Pea Green. Sometimes great circles were swept around the quarter bitts, at the grub beam, and abreast the foremast. The color used for the deck was then painted within the radii (see perspectives drawings on sheet 3 or 4 these are the dark areas shown on the deck around fiferails, windlass, and along the waterways). Waterways: Outside the previously mentioned circles, the waterway color was painted (this could be white to match the bulwarks, or a deep prussian blue, which was then quite popular). In painting the waterways, the caulking line between it and the deck plank was rigidly followed, even where planks were nibbed, giving a sawtooth effect along some stretches. Beyond the arcs of the circles, this did not matter. Ironwork: was generally black, but sometimes a benign soul would paint the hawse pipe linings and lips a bright red. The diaphragm pumps were similarly treated; sometimes they were a bright red all over; other times they would be black with only the insides of the bowls and spouts painted red. Anchors: may be painted black or left a red-lead color, but their stocks were tarred a glossy dark brown when the tar was fresh. The anchor chain sat in a rusty heap in the chain box and may be antiqued accordingly on the model. Windlass Barrel: often had its ironwork blacked. The barrel inside the riding bitts was oiled or black-varnished, making it very dark and somewhat glossy. The windlass heads, however, were often painted white, ironwork and all. In later years, many windlass barrels were completely painted, usually white. Hub, Rim & Spokes of Stoddart Steering Wheel: could be painted grey or white, the mahogany spokes would have been oiled and their brass caps polished bright. Bowsprit: may be black or white inboard, and black outboard, with the iron bands black and the pole white. All gaffs and booms should be salmon-buff with white tips. Masts: The lower masts were painted white from the deck to the boom saddle or the gooseneck; the mastheads were often white, but some vessels, including Latham, had buff mastheads with black ironwork. The tips of the mastheads, which protruded above the caps, were often white-leaded. The topmasts at the doublings were the color of the lower mast heads; their poles were generally white. All blocks, regardless of location, would have been painted the same color as the spars: white or buff. The hoists of both lower masts and topmasts, over which the gaffs and mast hoops traveled, were slushed or coated with a mixture of tallow and grease. This allowed gaffs and hoops to slide up and down with a minimum of friction. The color was a greyish-umber which darkened when its greasy substance caught dirt and grime. Seine Boat: was usually painted white with copper anti-fouling paint below the waterline. Its inboard works should be all grey or white. Gunwales & Gunwale Strakes: were generally a bright yellow, set off by a red stripe along the lower side. Dory: any shade of buff, grey or green with light grey inboard. Oars: oiled natural, but inevitably turned a weathered grey. Lanterns: Port lantern board is red and the starboard is green. FIG. 1b Scribing the Waterline Is the model perfectly level? Pencil or scriber Wood Block 9

10 STAGE A FRAMING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Bending Wood Building a P-O-B hull requires some wood bending and twisting of the wood parts which must remain in the desired position so as not to put too much stress on glue joints and fasteners. Following are three different methods of bending and shaping wood: Steam Bending: This is done by holding the wood piece that you want to bend over a kettle of steaming water and then bending it. The wood must be held in the bent position until it cools. It should remain nearly in that position, but may spring back slightly. Soaking: Another method is to soak the wood piece in warm water for several hours. Try adding a little household ammonia to the water. This speeds up the soaking process and makes the wood fibers slippery so the wood is easily bent. After soaking the wood, shape it to the desired position, using a form. Let it remain there until it has dried completely. Hot Iron Bending: You may also bend wood quickly over a soldering iron, but don t let it get too hot. It is also possible to purchase model plank bending irons commercially. 2. Center Keel Assembly The first step in constructing the hull is to assemble the four halves of the laser-cut center keel pieces. First, use a sharp pencil and mark the bulkhead locations below the slots and the WL-6 reference line. Mark on both sides of each center keel piece. Be especially critical in locating the reference line. Measure from several points, taking them from the plans. This reference line is a key to proper alignment. Next, glue the two 1/8 laser cut parts that make up keel piece No. 1 together with white glue and place a weight on the unit until it dries. Make sure that the pieces are accurately aligned. Repeat the process with the two 1/8 pieces that make up keel piece No. 2. Place the two parts, 1 and 2, over a sheet of wax paper or plastic wrap, on a flat building board or table. Glue the joint with white or carpenter s wood glue. Use a steel or aluminum straight edge to align the WL-6 reference line. Place a weight on each piece to hold it down while the glue dries. Let the glue dry at least overnight, preferably 24 hours (see figure 1c). Next, cut the rabbet in the center keel. The bearding line is the intersection of the center keel and the inside face of the hull planks. After the center keel is ready, mark the bearding line on both sides. The bearding line appears along the sternpost and the keel-stem. Measure from the P-O-B plans. The plans show a real ship rabbet for the planks and a model option that is easier to do. Using a chisel, start the rabbet cut at the bearding line and cut toward the edge of the center keel. When the planking is installed, the planks will lie flush on the cut portion from the bearding line to the rabbet (see figure 2). This completes the center keel preparation. 3. Installing the Keel-Stem, & Sternpost The fishing schooner has no real point of change between the keel and stem, so we will call it a keel-stem. The laser-cut keelstem (four pieces: glue together as was the Center Keel Assembly) and sternpost can be added now. Taper the keel-stem according to hull detail plans before gluing it in place. Dowels can be used to help align and hold the pieces. Remove any glue squeeze-out from the rabbet before it sets (see figure 3). FIG. 1c Assembling the Two Center Keel Pieces Building board or table Wax paper or plastic wrap FIG. 2 Cutting the Rabbet in the Center Keel FIG. 3 Installing the Keel-Stem & Sternpost Dowel Keel or sternpost FIG. 4 Shaping the Bulkheads Bevel marked with pencil Cut with wood grain Deck bevel Glue joint Weight (Approx 2#) Straight edge to align WL-6 Hobby knife Bearding line Recess for rudder stock Center keel Clean out glue No! Get it straight Chisel Sternpost at top Bevel & cut inboard side of stanchion Hobby knife 10

11 The top of the sternpost requires a slight recess where the rudder stock will be located. Carve this in before installing the sternpost (also see figure 3). Option: You can add the keel-stem and sternpost before cutting the rabbet. It makes the rabbet a little more difficult to cut, but allows an easier installation of the keel-stem because there is more gluing surface. FIG. 5 Fore & Aft Bevel of Stanchions 3/16 bulkhead 1/8 Sanding block 4. Installing the Bulkheads The bulkheads are labeled A through N. Compare the laser-cut bulkheads with the plans to determine which is which and label each bulkhead. Check each bulkhead to make sure it will slide into the center keel slots. Machine tolerances during laser cutting may provide a too tight fit. Sand the slots, if necessary, until the bulkheads slip on. The fit should be snug, allowing a little tolerance for glue. On each bulkhead, mark the location of the WL-6 reference line in pencil. This mark should line up with the WL-6 mark on the center keel. This alignment will assure that the hull form is accurate and that each bulkhead is in correct relationship to the others. Next, mark the bevels on the bulkheads. Use a tick strip to transfer the bevel line as shown on the plans, or cut the bulkhead patterns from the plan and glue them onto the bulkheads. You may also lay the pattern over the bulkhead and use a pin prick to locate the bevel. Cut the bevels with a #11 hobby knife blade (see figure 4). Some of the bevels are very slight, especially the deck bevels and the side bevels near amidships. These can be sanded after the bulkheads are installed, instead of pre-cutting them. 5/32 FIG. 6 Installing the Bulkheads WL-6 must line up Tack temporary strip until glue dries All of the laser-cut bulkheads extend up to the underside of the main rail to include a timberhead (bulwark stanchion). Consequently, bevels must be cut on the inside of the stanchions as well as on the outside. The bulkheads are located at every third stanchion. Two additional fake stanchions will be added between the bulkheads after the hull is planked. In addition to the side bevels, the bulwark stanchion portion of each bulkhead must be shaped on the fore and aft side. This can be done with a sanding block (see figure 5). The stanchions taper slightly and are about 1/8 wide at the rail and 5/32 at the deck. Glue the bulkheads in place, making sure that the WL-6 marks on the bulkheads and the center keel line up. Use a square to make each bulkhead perpendicular to the center keel. Then tack a temporary strip to the top of each bulkhead to hold it in place while the glue dries (see figure 6). After all bulkheads are in place, tack a temporary batten on each side of the hull just below the deck (see figure 7). This is a critical step. Measure the spacing between bulkheads and retack the battens until the hull is aligned. Even though the center keel was assembled flat, it could warp out of line. The end result would be a banana-shaped hull. Check the spacings between bulkheads, and port against starboard spacings. Check the hull visually to see if it is properly aligned. When you are satisfied that the hull is aligned, make sure the bottom of each bulkhead feathers out and lays precisely on the bearding line. Trim as necessary to line up. Also, check to see that the top of each bulkhead at the centerline is flush or slightly higher than the center keel. Since all alignment is based on the WL-6 marks, there could be some slight errors. If the center keel is below the top of the bulkheads, that s OK. If above, trim the center keel until it is flush with the bulkheads. Glue Check 90 with square FIG. 7 Aligning the Bulkheads, using Battens Check alignment visually in all directions Check spacing Check straightness of center keel with straight edge Tack temporary batten on hull 11

12 Next, check the fairness of the hull form and sand in the slight bevels that were not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff basswood batten about 3/32 thick and lay it across the bulkhead edges and deck in various locations (see figure 8). If not fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or add shim material if there are dips. This is an important check. When you start planking, the planks should lie flat against the bulkheads. No bumps or dips should occur on the surface. Be mindful here the functioning of Murphy s rule is a possibility. And, manufacturing or assembly errors can occasionally creep in. Notice that from the intersection of the sternpost to the transom, there is no bearding line. This portion of the center keel is a horn timber on the real ship. The planking will butt against the timber, so no rabbet cut is necessary. More on this later. FIG. 8 Checking the Fairness of the Hull Form Sand flush with top of bulkheads if necessary WL-6 Line up with WL-6 on center keel Bearding line 5. Installing the Transom The stern of most ships is difficult to visualize and to construct. The Benjamin W. Latham has a transom that slopes sharply aft. A laser-cut transom piece is provided in the kit. This piece represents the framing timbers of a real ship. It will be covered with 1/16 planks on the outside and 1/32 planks on the inside. But for now, it is important to install only the laser-cut piece. Smooth flow into rabbit Trim if necessary to line up on bearding line There are various bevels that must be cut on the transom piece (see the plans and figure 9). The bevels, where the planking will join, are especially critical. The top bevel will receive the main rail. The lower (side) bevel receives the hull planking and is a little tricky to cut. But, if you don t get it exactly right, it can be corrected during the planking operation to assure that the planks land flush on the bevel. After the bevels are cut, steam bend the transom piece to the required curve (see plans and figure 10). Next, slip the transom slot over the center keel in the position shown on the plans. Make sure the angle is correct by using scrap wood to create a template for the angle. Glue the transom to the center keel. Tack a temporary batten on each side from bulkhead N to the transom to hold it in place (see figure 11). Visually check the transom for alignment, sighting fore and aft, and from the side. Get it right; a twisted transom looks bad and creates a problem during the planking process. 6. Covering the Mast Slots On both sides of the mast slots in the center keel, add the pieces shown on the P-O-B plan. Cut them from scrap wood. Glue them securely, because you won t be able to get to them after the decking is installed. The mast slots should be slightly larger than the actual mast. The masts will be wedged in their holes when installed. 7. Drilling the Rudder Stock Hole Drill or carve a hole into the center keel directly above the sternpost as shown on the plans. This hole will receive the rudder stock. You could omit the hole, cut the stock flush with the hull, and simply glue the stock to the hull, but the effect is nicer if a hole is present. Needs shim Needs trimming Good FIG. 9 Cutting Bevels on the Transom Top bevel main rail will land on this bevel This bevel should be in line with the flow of outer hull planking Heavy batten across several bulkheads to check fairness FIG. 10 Steam Bending the Transom Piece Clamp Good Bottom bevel at lower end Bottom bevel at side Form Transom piece Steam, then bend on form. Clamp until cool 12

13 8. Installing Horn Timber Cheeks From just forward of the hull/sternpost intersection to the transom, fit a 1/8 -square piece between each bulkhead on both sides. These cheek pieces are located slightly more than 1/16 up from the bottom of the center keel. This area of the center keel represents a horn timber on a real ship. The cheeks are for attaching the hull planks at the horn timber. On a real ship they are bolted to the horn timber (see figure 12). Notice in the sketch that the bottom of the horn timber from the sternpost aft is not completely flat, but is a shallow vee shape. After the planking is installed, this vee can be sanded in, or you can cut it before planking. FIG. 11 Installing the Transom Transom Make template for correct transom angle Bulkhead N 9. Installing the Planksheer A large ship, such as a clipper, has a separate planksheer, waterway, and nibbing strake for deck planking. On the fishing schooner, one piece serves all three functions. The outboard edge of the planksheer is flush with the outside hull planking, and the top of the plank is flush with the deck planking. Nibs are cut into the inboard edge for the deck planks. On the larger real vessel, the planksheer (or planksheer-waterway in this case), would be a solid piece with holes cut out for the bulwark stanchions. With holes cut, the planksheer then would be slipped over the stanchions. For the model, each planksheer-waterway section is made up of two pieces. A laser-cut piece has slots for the stanchions on the outer edge at each bulkhead. After this piece is installed, a 1/16 -square strip will be added to the outboard edge to complete the model planksheer. FIG. 12 Installing Horn Timber Cheeks Center keel Glue Temporary batten on each side Bulkhead N Bulkhead M At this time, there are no nibs cut into the inboard edge of the planksheer. Cut the nibs during the deck planking process in order to avoid errors. It may be necessary to file the planksheer slots so they fit snugly around the stanchions. Also, the aft end of the quarter deck planksheer is longer than required. Cut the end to fit against the transom. The forward end of the quarter deck planksheer should be flush with the front edge of Bulkhead G. The fore deck planksheer should butt against the Bulkhead. Glue the planksheer pieces in place. The upper outboard edge of the planksheer pieces should be flush with the outside of each bulkhead. When in place, add a 1/16 -square basswood strip on the outside edge (see figure 13). After the hull planking is completed, the outer edge of the planksheer can be sanded flush with the hull planks. 10. Installing the Hawse Timbers The hawse timbers can be a single 1/8 -thick piece at the forward end as shown on the plans (also look ahead to figure 22a). Glue the timbers to the top of the planksheer. You can cut the hawse pipe before you install the timbers if desired. Make sure you leave space for the bowsprit to pass through at the bow. Most of the basic framing is now completed and you should be ready to start planking. Take a moment to look over what you have done so far. Recheck the fairness of the hull. Making corrections now will allow the planking process to go smoothly. Hull plank Shallow vee cut on center keel FIG. 13 Installing the Planksheer Laser cut planksheer BEFORE PLANKING 1/8 square horn timber cheek Flush here 1/16 square strip glued to edge Sand flush with hull planks AFTER PLANKING 13

14 STAGE B PLANKING THE PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL 1. Getting Started The planking process is tedious and you should plan on spending some time doing the job. Work on each plank as a project unto itself. Rushing will only result in frustration and a poor result. Since both sides of the hull will be identical, you can cut two planks the same shape at once. Fit one plank at a time to each of the sides. Before starting, place the hull upside down and secure it in a vise or cradle. It would be ideal to use something portable that would allow you to rotate the hull easily. 2. Planking Battens & Belts The model will be easier to plank if you first divide the hull into a series of belts. The belts flow along the hull in smooth curves. Each belt is designed so the planks lay against the hull and sweep up at the ends like the deck sheer, lessening the need for excessive edge bending. Within each belt, the planks are usually spaced evenly, tapered, and fitted as required. When selecting a belt width and the number of planks within each belt, you need to consider how the planks will lay against the frames and how they will taper. If the planks are too wide, they will not lay flat on the bulkheads. Also, you will not want them to taper so much that there is no width left for fasteners. This would require substituting a larger plank for two to increase width. Also, in some areas, the planks may get wider rather than taper. If they get too wide, a stealer plank must be cut into the plank. While these alterations are acceptable and are used on many ships, it is best to design the run of planking to limit the number of such inserts (see figure 14). To save you the trouble, a planking layout has already been developed for the Benjamin W. Latham model. The layout is shown on the P-O-B plans. The arrangement shown is based on notes in Howard Chapelle s book, The American Fishing Schooner (see number 14 of the Bibliography). Generally, the schooners had about 21 planking strakes per side. The upper strakes had very little taper forward and aft and no stealers were used above the waterline. This was done to improve the appearance of the plank runs. The Benjamin W. Latham model has been designed with Chapelle s observations in mind. The upper belt was kept reasonably wide forward and aft. Stealers are introduced at the stern in the lower belt. 3. Planking Butts Before you start planking, you need to consider the planking butts. Since the longest length of trees available determined the cut-lengths of wood, available planking was generally shorter than the overall lengths of the lifesize vessels. Shipbuilders generally had to work with planks only 20 or 30 feet long. Some modelers think it is easier to use a plank length the full length of the model, since fake butts can be scribed in later or omitted. Granted, this can be done; it s really up to the modeler. But, there are some excellent advantages to using shorter pieces. Since all planks must taper from midship forward and aft, the use of a short length will allow the marking of the taper to be quick, and the plank easier to fasten into place. Also, a short piece can be held down with one hand. And if you make a mistake, you will have only a small piece to do over. So, the following is based on the assumption that you will use the shorter planking lengths. FIG. 14 Planking with Stealers FIG. 15 Staggering the Planking Butts FIG. 16 Spiling FIG. 17 Belt Battens Batten A B C D Stealer PLANKS GETTING TOO WIDE 1. Use compass run steel point along plank in place and mark parallel line on new plank with pencil end Wood lay along bulkheads without edge bending 2. Measure width & mark. Draw curve G Mark locations on bulkheads with pencil Parallel Single plank insert PLANKS GETTING TOO NARROW 3. Cut out plank Look for smooth flow of battens Bulkhead Real ship must be 5 or more (model meets rule) Real ship must have 3 strakes between butts on same frame (model meets rule with plank length selected) Plank already in place 14