(IMPORTANT: Read this manual before operating your new CHLORINE GENIE) CONGRATULATIONS ON BECOMING THE PROUD OWNER OF THE CHLORINE GENIE R-30

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1 # 20 OPERATING & MAINTENANCE MANUAL Push button cell cleaning model (IMPORTANT: Read this manual before operating your new CHLORINE GENIE) CONGRATULATIONS ON BECOMING THE PROUD OWNER OF THE CHLORINE GENIE R-30 INTRODUCTION Thousands of pool owners throughout the United States have joined you in enjoying crystal clear, safe swimming pool water without buying or storing poisonous chlorine. The CHLORINE GENIE is designed to provide effective chlorination for residential and commercial swimming pools. The chlorinated liquid produced by the CHLORINE GENIE is safer and more economical than any other form of chlorine. The CHLORINE GENIE is manufactured with the finest materials and workmanship to provide years of trouble-free operation with almost no maintenance by the owner. We are confident you will be thrilled with your CHLORINE GENIE unit. Thank you for helping us succeed in making the CHLORINE GENIE the best method of sanitizing swimming pools on the market today. Note: For Commercial and very large residential pool applications: The CHLORINE GENIE "S" models also produce Copper/Silver ions. Using a copper test kit and keeping the copper reading at 1 to 2 ppm provides additional protection against micro-organisms that chlorine won t kill such as Polio and Legionnaires. This combination of sanitizing chemicals is ideal for large residential and commercial pools, and will reduce the amount of chlorine needed by as much as 50%. The combination of free chlorine and Copper/Silver ions are mixed in the pool return line and then dispensed to the pool every day when the filter pump is running. CHLORINE GENIE, manufactured by Chlorine Genie, Inc Blum Rd., #1, Martinez, CA94553 (925) (800) 610-PURE Fax (925) Patent #US 8,470,143 B2 and 9,382,138 B2 Lic. #722375

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3 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS Topic Outside Front View of Unit...4 Interior View of Brine Tank & General Installation Instructions... 5 Side View of Unit: Chlorine & Vent Line... 6 Typical Installation Using a Venturi or Separate chlorine line from pad to pool...7 Testing Installation and General Operating procedures Important Warnings... 9 Time Clock Operation... 9 Amp Meter, Amp Adjustment Knob ph control valve ROUTINE MAINTENANCE Adding salt Cleaning cell...12 Recharging acid reservoir Reverse osmosis system & pre-sediment filter Changing RO cartridge & Checking water flow through RO Winterizing...16 TROUBLE SHOOTING Chlorine fumes Brine tank water level...17 POOL WATER CHEMISTRY Table: lowering & raising total alkalinity Table for acid demand, & stabilizer or cyanuric acid tables CHLORINE GENIE WARRANTY... 21

4 4 Outside Front View of Unit Power supply cabinet Amp Adjustment knob Is now a rubber push button Green power LED 24 hr. timer Salt level rod 0 to 30-amp DC meter Removable salt lid. Add salt here. Use only clean course water softener salt. Do not use pool salt because it can plug unit. R.O. Cartridge housing 250 flow restrictor Pre-sediment filter Water & air Tee to the acid reservoir tank ph Valve: When red handle is left open, (vertical) ph in the pool will usually lower slowly. When red handle is closed, (horizontal) the ph of the pool water will usually slowly raise. Discharged ph water is alkaline, contains a little salt and should be discharged to a safe spot. 12-volt power connection to solenoid valves two red wires to the center one black wire on each side Direction of flow Water solenoid valve Acid solenoid valve Incoming tap water to bottom pre-filter Kynar 90º from restrictor to Mixer. Remove nut when testing for water flow from restrictor. Flow should be about one gallon per hr. Extend the vent line down then away from unit or any other equipment or plants. See page 7 Brine tank overflow exits through ph pipe to waste Chlorine exit to venturi or drip line WARNING DO NOT COVER THIS UNIT SMALL AMOUNTS OF HYDROGEN ARE VENTED FROM THE SIDES OF THE UNIT. THE VENTS MUST STAY OPEN TO ALLOW THE HYDROGEN TO DISSIPATE TO THE ATMOSPHERE. INTERIOR VIEW OF GENIE'S BRINE TANK

5 5 Water exits unit through ¾ inch. PVC pipe cut at an angle. This pipe sets the level of the water in the brine tank when the ph valve is closed. When the ph valve is open the water level in the brine tank will drop approx 4" 4 Acid Reservoir for storing muriatic acid for cleaning cell and tubing, etc. Threaded cap for refilling acid chamber Incoming water for acid chamber Discharge chlorine gas from anode side of cell Warning do not cover hydrogen vent. Vent must stay open to vent hydrogen to atmosphere Discharge from cathode side of cell 6 Cell Chamber Flow of acid solution to cell Hydrogen Vent Flow of pure chlorine gas to mixer Red cell wires Cathode discharge to Precipitation tank Chlorine gas to mixer Hydrogen vent 4 Precipitation Tank where water is further softened Acid to cathode side of cell Softened RO water drips into 4 Precipitation Tank Mixing Chamber where tap water is mixed with pure chlorine and then exits to the pool A. GENERAL INSTALLATION INFORMATION. 1. When a drip or gravity feed is used with a separate line delivering the chlorinated liquid directly to the pool, the vent pipe should extend away from the unit or any other equipment or plants. (See the arrows & description below) If the Genie is installed in a pump house or enclosed area, the chlorine vent line must be extended to the outside of the enclosure. 2. When the unit is installed on the equipment pad with a venturi loop, only run the Genie when the filter is running and the venturi is sucking the liquid chemical from the Genie. Side View of Unit

6 6 CHLORINE VENT LINE MUST BE OPEN TO ATMOSPHERE A vent line from the top of the chlorine exit tee is looped up then back down to ground level. Vent line must be placed so that, if chlorine fumes are present (unlikely event), the fumes will not damage equipment or plants etc. Do not place vent line underneath windows or vents or by air-conditioners to house or any other equipment. If Genie is installed in an enclosed area, extend the vent pipe outside the enclosure. Do not create a p-trap that could result in a condensed water plug. Wiring for solenoids two red to center. Black on each side Aluminum finned heat sink Copper water cooling tube Acid solenoid valve comes on when timer is on and ph output is set to desired setting. Filtered water tee going to solenoid Kynar tee water going to acid reservoir Kynar cap plug remove to add air in order to empty reservoir Over flow to ph discharge pipe. When ph (red) handle is vertical, ph valve is open and ph slowly lowers. When ph handle is horizontal, ph valve is closed and ph slowly raises. Using PVC 1/2- inch pipe, extend ph discharge to a safe place away from plants or equipment. Discharge liquid is alkaline and may have a little salt mixed into it. Water solenoid valve opens when Genie time is on Filtered household water goes through cooling tube & returns to the end of R.O. unit. Removable threaded R.O. end cap Removable pre-sediment filter Bypass water out of R.O. going to #250 restrictor. Water from restrictor to ¾ mixer p-trap Softened R.O. water goes to 4 precipitation tank. Incoming household water (must ALWAYS be on 24-7) When chlorine is being delivered to the pool through a separate gravity feed line, extend the vent pipe to a safe place away from house vents or any other equipment. Chlorine fumes will cause rust and can damage plants. Be careful not to create a P-trap in the vent line that can develop a water plug. If unit is installed in an enclosed area, extend the vent pipe to the outside. When installed with a venturi, extend chlorine exit line with 1/2 inch PVC towards the venturi then convert to 1/4 inch Teflon.

7 7 TYPICAL VENTURI INSTALLATION ONLY RUN GENIE WHEN FILTER PUMP IS RUNNING AND THERE IS SUCTION FROM THE VENTURI. RPM OF PUMP WILL NEED TO BE ABOVE 18OO. Pipe from filter Commercial units have a copper/silver cell from filter Assembly can be installed either VERTICAL OR HORIZONTAL to pool to pool Chlorine line to Genie NEW POOL CONSTRUCTION: INSTALL WITH A SEPARATE LINE GOING FROM EQUIPMENT PAD TO GRAVITY FEED CHEMICALS TO POOL Chlorine flow Pool water flow Cap with vent hole G E N I E ½ in spring loaded check valve & ball valve Chlorinated water to pool F I L T E R Pool return line Install a ½ inch. pvc line with a spring loaded check valve and a ball valve between the pool return line and a separate chlorine line. This will allow for an adjusted water and chemical flow to the pool. The check valve prevents air from getting back to the filter during the off cycle of the filter pump. The vented cap on the chlorine line prevents an air block in chlorine line Install a normal sized chlorine line going to pool with an eye-ball fitting at the pool end & close to or above a normal return line. Stub off the line at the pad and install a cap that has a small vent hole drilled in the top. Run a ½ inch by-pass line, with a spring loaded check valve, with filtered water to the chlorine line. It may be necessary to also install a ½ ball valve to reduce the flow through the chlorine line to prevent back pressure on the Genie cell. With this type of an installation, a vent line must be installed from the top of the chlorine exit to the floor level or if the Genie is in a pump house the vent must be directed outside of the pump house to prevent chlorine fumes from collecting in the pump house or around the pool equipment.

8 8 Testing installation 1. Turn the filter pump on. When the pump is fully primed, you should feel suction from the venturi. 2. Turn the time clock "off". Turn the amp adjustment to" low" and turn the time clock "on". As the chlorinated liquid exits, you will see the gas and liquid being drawn up the Teflon tube into the venturi. 3. When using a variable speed pump, set RPM high enough to assure good suction from the venturi. (1800 to 2400 RPM) 2016 R-30 Face Plate: Residential Unit 24-hour time clock (Adjust amount of chlorine using timer: more run time = more chlorine. Amp Adjustment Knob settings are: (Clean low, medium or, high). Set this knob so amperage is 15 to 25. ALWAYS adjust the time clock, if more or less chlorine is needed NOT the Amp Adjustment knob. Acid cell cleaning push button. (see below) 0-30-amp meter Normally set to run at 15 to 20 amps. B. GENERAL OPERATING PROCEDURES 1. Routine: Includes adjusting the Amp Adjustment knob so that amperage is between 10 to 20 amps, adjusting time clock for amount of CL 2 needed, adding salt, adding acid to the 4 reservoir, cleaning or acid washing the cell, correctly adjusting the ph valve and checking the suction of the venturi (if installed). (Instructions given later in manual.) 2. Occasional Maintenance: Change Pre-Sediment Filter usually once every 1-3 years; change R.O. Cartridge usually once every 4-5 years (more frequently if household water is very hard). C. IMPORTANT WARNINGS<<Use the Following Safety Precautions to Prevent Accidents>> 1. Minors should NOT service unit. 2. This product can produce chlorine gas, which is a toxic irritant. 3. The protective face plate of the power-supply should ONLY be removed from the power supply by an Authorized Service Agent. 4. Rubber gloves and eye protection should be worn when routine maintenance is performed. 5. Brine water and/or ph discharge are usually salty and alkaline: <<Do not pour or discharge near plants--especially acid loving plants>> 6. Risk of Electric Shock: a. Consult a qualified electrician if you cannot verify that the receptacle is protected by a GFI.

9 9 b. To reduce risk of electrical shock, do not use extension cord to connect unit to electrical supply, provide a properly located GFI outlet. If unit is installed temporarily with an extension cord, the owner must, AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, connect UNIT to a GFI receptacle protected by a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFI). Owner is herein advised to have a proper electrical outlet installed immediately. 7. DO NOT ALLOW UNIT TO RUN OUT OF SALT: allowing unit to run out of salt will damage electrodes resulting in costly repair. (Again, DO NOT USE PELLET OR POOL SALT.) 8. DO NOT COVER BRINE TANK WITH ANYTHING. UNIT MUST BE WELL VENTED. Hydrogen is produced by unit and must not be trapped inside the unit but MUST BE VENTED TO THE ATMOSPHERE. IF HYDROGEN IS TRAPPED IN A SMALL TIGHTLY ENCLOSED AREA, IT COULD RESULT IN A FIRE, EXPLOSION OR BOTH. D. TIME CLOCK OPERATION 24-hour time clock (Adjust amount of chlorine using timer: more run time = more chlorine.) On When TAB dogs are lifted to the up position. Current time of day indicator. Off When TAB dogs are depressed. 1. The CHLORINE GENIE time clock acts as an on/off switch. ALWAYS adjust chlorine levels with the time clock NOT the Amp Adjustment knob. The amount of chlorine needed to maintain the proper chlorine level in the pool varies from pool to pool. The longer the CHLORINE GENIE runs the more chlorine it will produce. Usually, setting the time clock to come on and off once per day is sufficient. If the unit is installed in direct sunlight, it is best to run the unit at night or early morning on hot days, to avoid overheating. 2. Use a test kit to test for chlorine and adjust the time the CHLORINE GENIE runs to maintain 1 to 2 ppm (or more if needed) chlorine in the pool. The CHLORINE GENIE is designed to run up to 24 hours a day, if necessary, to provide adequate chlorine. The CHLORINE GENIE uses a little over 100 watts of power, which will have very little effect on the electrical bill. Note: Pool water will retain chlorine longer when stabilized with 40ppm to 60ppm Cyanuric acid (pool stabilizer) as recommended by the Board of Health and this manual. 3. When installed with gravity feed (or "drip") installation, the filter pump does NOT have to run to operate the CHLORINE GENIE, but it helps to run the pump a little while to circulate the chlorine through the pool because chlorine wants to stay in the upper part of the pool. (It is fine to turn the unit on before the filter pump comes on. Drawing most of the water from the main drain helps chlorine distribute more evenly. 4. When Genie is installed with a venturi, the filter MUST be running, and the venturi MUST be sucking, when the Genie is on.

10 10 E. AMPERAGE ADJUSTMENT KNOB and AMP METER (amp meter reads low DC current) 1. The Amp Adjustment knob is used for amperage adjustments and cleaning settings. Amp meter gives readings in DC amperage ranging from zero to 30 amps. Normal operation is 15 to 25 amps. (If brine tank water temperature is below 60 degrees, the amperage will be lower.) 2. If amps are below 10, too little salt may be the reason. (Keep salt level in the Green on the salt rod.) 3. If amps are below 10 when the Amp Adjustment knob is on medium or high, a dirty cell may be the reason; clean the cell. (See Cleaning Cell") 4. It is normal for the amps to run higher immediately after acid washing cell. 5. Always turn the Amp Adjustment knob to the "clean" position when acid washing cell. 6. ALWAYS adjust the Amp Adjustment knob to keep the amp meter below 25 amps. 7. ALWAYS adjust the chlorine level in the pool by increasing or decreasing hours on the time clock. 8. ALWAYS use clean, coarse water softener salt and keep the salt stick in the green. Do not use pool salt, it is too fine and will plug unit and pellets dissolve too slowly. 5. Amperage is not always constant. Some variance is normal (colder water usually causes lower amperage and warmer water causes higher amperage.) NOTE: The unit uses very little electricity. The meter shows low DC amperage. Example: 5 volts x 20 amps (meter reading) = 100 watts F. ph CONTROL Note: Water level in brine tank will lower by about 3-4 when the ph valve is opened. Power supply Power supply Brine tank Brine tank When ph valve is closed, (horizontal) ph will rise slowly. WATER WATER When ph valve is open (vertical) ph will usually lower slowly WATER SALT SALT IMPORTANT NOTE: The CHLORINE GENIE does NOT automatically sense ph; it is the owner's responsibility to check the ph and adjust the CHLORINE GENIE to meet the needs of the pool as described below. If the pool owner allows the ph to fall below 7.2 or rise above 8.0, the problems that are described in most pool chemistry books may occur (copper stains, mineral deposits, equipment damage, rough pool surface, irritation to swimmers, etc.) After the pool water is correctly balanced, the ph of the pool water usually can be maintained without the use of commercial chemicals by using the CHLORINE GENIE S ph valve. Follow directions below: (Note: ph can be lowered quicker if the cell is cleaned more often than once a month or acid is added directly into pool. See cell-cleaning section Pg. 9-3.) 1. When the ph of the pool rises to or above 7.8, open the RED ph control valve and leave open until the ph drops to the desired level; this will lower the water level in the brine tank. The water in the 4 ph tank will then slowly flow through the open ph valve to the discharge location. When the RED

11 11 ph valve is first opened, approximately 2 quarts of water will quickly discharge to waste; then the discharge water will be a slow drip. When the ph valve is left in the open position (vertical handle), a mild acid solution is dispensed to the pool, which will usually, slowly lower the ph of the pool water. It may be necessary to leave the valve open or closed for an extended period to achieve the desired ph level in the pool. 2. Close the RED ph valve (turn handle horizontal) when ph level reaches 7.2 (ph in pool will usually rise slowly). Be sure to test pool water's ph and open valve when ph reaches Important: After the pool water is balanced properly, test pool's ph and total alkalinity every month in the summer and make necessary adjustments. Check pool water chemistry, and adjust if needed, two or three times during the winter months even though the pool is not being used. 4. CAUTION: When the RED ph valve is open, a small amount of slightly, basic solution drains out to waste. This solution will damage plants so it should be drained to a safe area. Check local ordinances for any restrictions on waste discharge. NOTE: To work properly, the ph pipe needs to be ½ inch PVC and has to be level or downhill from the unit. G. ROUTINE MAINTENANCE 1. ADDING SALT Note: When adding salt to the unit for the first time, put two bags (80 to 100 lbs.) SALT IN FIRST, then add the water up to the level of the angled cut ¾ inch pipe located in the back of the brine tank. (See Pg 14) Use only clean, coarse rock salt, as pure as possible, do not use POOL SALT, it is too fine and it will plug unit and pellets do not dissolve as well. IMPORTANT NOTE: See illustration below. Salt indicator rod is about 40" long and rests on top of the undissolved salt. The indicator must rest gently on top of the salt in the tank and it will slowly lower as the salt is used up. Keep the salt indicator pipe in the GREEN. Do not overfill brine tank with salt as filling the brine tank too full will waste salt and could cause excess salt to end up in pool. Follow directions below to add salt. Locate salt indicator pipe protruding from brine tank salt door. NOTE: When the green part of the pipe has lowered and is near the cap, the salt is almost gone, and it is time to add 40 or 50 lbs. of clean, coarse rock salt. (Keep enough salt in the unit that the salt pipe level is in the green.) DO NOT LET UNIT RUN OUT OF SALT: doing so could cause damage to the cell resulting in expensive repair. (The cap on the end of the salt indicator will be touching the brine tank salt door if the unit is out of salt.) Top Cap Operating level: Rod is showing green. Green is almost all beneath the lid. Salt is low and more needs to be added. Salt indicator rod Fresh water at the top Brine water at the bottom WARNING Do not let unit run unit out of salt. Doing so could damage the cell leading to a costly repair. DO NOT USE POOL SALT it is too fine and will plug unit. Do not use pellets-- they do not dissolve as well. Use only clean coarse water softener salt. Do not push rod down into the salt--let it

12 12 High salt level about 65lbs. 2. CLEANING CELL Low salt level about 10 lbs. Add salt using the following steps: a. Turn power to the machine "off" using time clock. b. Open ph valve(to lower water level in brine tank) c. Remove salt indicator rod from brine tank. d. Remove the salt lid from brine tank. e. Add only 40 or 50 pounds of salt at one time to the brine tank. (DO NOT PUT SALT IN 6" OR 4 DIAMETER CHAMBERS IN THE BACK OF THE BRINE TANK.) Use kiln dried 99.6% pure (or purer) clean, coarse rock salt. (Under normal residential pool operation, 50# of salt usually lasts about 30 to 60 days. If salt is being used up faster than that, see "Trouble Shooting" section of manual.) f. Once a year (more often when well water or hard water is being used) add 2 cups of acid to the 4 precipitation tank. Do this after the ph valve has been opened and the water in the brine tank is at its lowest level. This will clean both the tank and ph discharge tubing. g. Replace brine tank salt lid. h. Replace salt indicator pipe by gently lowering it through the hole in the brine tank salt door until it rests on the salt. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE SALT. As the salt is used, the pipe will slowly descend. The depth of salt (in inches) in the brine tank will correspond to the number of inches the indicator rod is above the brine tank salt door. IMPORTANT: WHENEVER HANDLING ACIDS, BE SURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND HAND PROTECTION. SHOULD ACID CONTACT EYES, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH EYES BY HOLDING THEM OPEN UNDER A GENTLE STREAM OF RUNNING WATER FOR A FULL 15 MINUTES and THEN SEEK IMMEDIATE MEDICAL ADVICE. IF ACID COMES IN CONTACT WITH SKIN-RINSE THOROUGHLY. DO NOT BREATHE FUMES FROM ACID. A. Cells usually need cleaning once a month or approximately 150 hrs. of Genie run Time. If well water or very hard city water is used the cells may need cleaning more often (once a week if extremely hard). Clean the cells as often as needed to keep good amperage. Failure to clean the cell on a routine basis, may cause damage that may result in costly servicing and void the warranty. (Note: the cell cleaning solution is pool Muriatic acid. TO CLEAN THE CELL: 1. With the unit running and the amperage between 10 and 20. hold down the cell cleaning button for approx. ten seconds. The front solenoid valve will open and push water into the acid chamber which in turn will push Blue dyed acid into the cell. When the amperages needle starts to raise is the indication that the acid has reached the cell. NOW turn the amperage adjustment to CLEAN and turn the time clock OFF. 2. Allow the acid to clean the cell for approx. two hrs. LEAVING the amperage adjustment knob on CLEAN position, turn the time clock back ON. When the time clock comes on, the acid will be pumped out of the cell. NOTE: the amperage needle will slowly lower until the acid has been pumped out. NOW adjust the amp to normal operation 15 to 25 amps. 3. If mineral has been deposited in the cell, the acid contacting the mineral will cause bubbles to flow through the clear cathode discharge tube coming from the 6 cell housing to 4 precipitation tank, when the unit is off indicating the cell is being cleaned. If no bubbling occurs, the cell was most likely clean or not very dirty.)

13 13 4. If the household water to the unit is 5 to 10 grains hard, the cell should be cleaned after approximately 150 hrs. of Genie run time. If the water is 10 to 20 grains hard, the cell should be cleaned every 75 hrs. of run time. 5. After the cell has been cleaned approximately 20 to 25 times and when the acid going to the cell is no longer blue, the acid reservoir will need to be RECHARGED. RECHARGING THE ACID RESERVOIR Note: The cell cleaning reservoir tank holds approximately two gallons of cleaning solution. The solution is Muriatic or pool acid. Each time the ph adjustment knob is used, small amounts of water are injected into the reservoir. Eventually, the blue acid will be used up and inside the acid reservoir will be almost all water that will have to be forced out of reservoir so you can refill it with acid. To recharge the cell-cleaning reservoir, complete the following steps WEARING EYE PROTECTION AND HAND PROTECTION: a. Use canned air adapted with ¼" tubing. b. Unscrew the end cap on the Teflon tee on the side of the brine tank. (See Picture pages #6 & 15) c. Slowly inject air into the tube, which will force the liquid out of the reservoir from the top of the reservoir to the cell. When the acid reservoir is empty, you will see (through the clear exit tube next to the 4 reservoir) and hear air leaving the reservoir. (This will take about a minute of airflow.) Then disconnect the air tube and replace the end cap. (The acid reservoir should be empty now.) e. Unscrew and remove the 1¼" threaded plug from the top of the acid reservoir. f. Put one blue dye capsule in a gallon of acid and let it dissolve (about three minute until the acid turns blue). g. Fill the reservoir with the blue acid (about 7 quarts, one dye capsule is all that is needed). h. Replace the 1¼" in threaded plug: use Teflon tape, screw the plug down tight by hand then turn about a quarter turn more with a tool--plug must be air tight. NOTE: THE AIR FITTING ON THE UNIT IS THE KYNAR TEE ON THE SIDE OF THE BRINE TANK. Remove the end ¼ " Kynar cap from the Kynar tee located on the side of the brine tank. It takes about a minute for the air to push all the liquid out of the acid ¼ " Kynar cap Kynar air tee Remove salt lid and unscrew the threaded plug from the empty acid reservoir and add approx. seven quarts of blue dyed Muriatic acid. ¾ angle pipe that sets water level in brine tank Seven-quart acid reservoir 1¼ " threaded plug reservoir cap Canned air extension tube. After reservoir is empty, you MUST replace the Kynar ¼ cap before refilling acid reservoir tank with approximately 7 quarts of blue dyed pool acid. A can of compressed air can empty the acid reservoir several times. Only recharge the acid reservoir when the acid exiting the reservoir is no longer blue but is clear. Note: If the acid is only used to clean the cell once a month during the swimming season, it should last for

14 14 H. REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM 1. Locate reverse osmosis system (two cylinders attached to the outside of brine tank near the top). The smaller of the two cylinders is the pre-sediment filter. The larger cylinder is the housing containing the R.O. cartridge. (see picture page #5) 2. Frequency of changing filter and cartridge: a. The pre-sediment filter (small one) usually needs to be changed once every year or two. In very hard water areas, the pre-sediment filter should be changed semi-annually. b. R.O. cartridge needs to be changed every four to five years in most areas. In hard water areas, the R.O. cartridge may need to be changed more often. c. Filters and cartridges may be purchased from local distributor for a nominal fee or from the Chlorine Genie factory (NOTE: Filters and/or cartridges from another source may not work.) 3. TESTING PRE-SEDIMENT FILTER: To test the flow of the pre-sediment filter, perform the following test to see if the small filter or the larger cartridge needs replacing: a. Turn unit OFF (using timer) b. Disconnect the incoming water tube from the fitting on the end cap of the RO housing. c. Turn unit back ON, this opens solenoid valve to allow tap water to flow in. d. Interpreting RESULTS 1) If there is a fast stream of water squirting from the tube, the water flow through the presediment filter is fine. 2) If the water is fast entering the filter and a slow stream exiting the filter, the pre-sediment filter needs replacing. 4. CHANGING THE PRE-SEDIMENT FILTER: a. Turn the unit OFF using the time clock and turn off the household water supply. b. Disconnect the tubing from both ends of the pre-sediment filter. c. Remove the entire pre-sediment filter from the plastic mounting clamps d. Remove the fittings from both ends of the old pre-sediment filter and wrap threaded portion of fittings with Teflon tape, then screw fittings into the new pre-sediment filter. f. Snap new pre-sediment filter back into place, reconnect the tubing, then turn ON water and turn ON unit. Check for leaks and tighten fittings if necessary. Pre-filter. Remove fittings. When replacing them in the new filter wrap with a little Teflon tape. Household water goes in end. Direction of flow indicated by arrow on filter. RO Cartridge Pre-filter Water flows in direction of arrow on the filter.

15 15 5. CHANGING REVERSE OSMOSIS CARTRIDGE R.O. housing for cartridge Removable cartridge Firmly push the new cartridge into position in the housing. A gentle tap may be necessary to seat the end O-rings into place. When cartridge is in place with the O-rings seated, you should not be able to pull the cartridge out with your fingers. Pliers are usually needed to pull the cartridge out. R.O. Cap O-Rings a. Turn the unit OFF and then remove the black tube from the fitting in the end cap of the R.O. housing. b. IMPORTANT: Don t lose the little brass insert in the black tubing when you remove the tubing. This insert helps hold the tubing in place and prevents the tubing from blowing off under high water pressure. c. Unscrew the 2 end cap from the end of the RO unit (don t lose the O-ring). d. Notice how the old cartridge looks when it fits into the housing so you can put the new one in the same direction and to the same depth, and then remove old cartridge from inside filter housing (pull out using pliers). e. Insert new R.O. cartridge element in housing. Be sure the new element is all the way in and seated. Put the end with the O-rings in first. Move element in a slight circular motion to center the element tube (tube in center of element with the O-rings) with orifice in center of top element housing cap. IMPORTANT: You should then feel the element slide into the housing about another 1/2" indicating the element is properly seated. NOTE: If element is not in all the way, a high flow of untreated water will go to the brine tank. f. Make sure the threaded cap O-ring is in place that seals the 2-inch cap and replace the cap. g. Insert the black tube with the brass insert into the fitting and tighten nut. h. Turn the unit ON and check for leaks. 6. CHECKING WATER FLOW THROUGH REVERSE OSMOSIS Note: Allow CHLORINE GENIE to run up to 10 min. for a new cartridge to fully charge and flow properly before testing for flow. a. With the CHLORINE GENIE off, undo the clear tube from the fitting where it enters the mixer. b. Undo the fitting where purified water enters the brine tank. c. Turn Genie power on using time clock. d. The water entering the brine tank, should be a fast drip. e. The water exiting the restrictor to the mixer, should be a slow stream. f. Replace tubing and set timer for normal operation.

16 16 NOTE: Water from BOTH tubes together should fill one quart in approximately three minutes. CAUTION: Chlorine fumes will come out of mixer when clear tube is disconnected. As soon as tube flow is determined, turn Genie off and reconnect clear tubing. I. WINTERIZING THE CHLORINE GENIE: In areas where the unit is exposed to below freezing temperatures, the unit should be winterized as follows: Label all fittings before disconnecting. Be sure not to drop and lose the copper inserts inside the water pressure tubing. 1. Shut off unit and then shut "off" water to unit at water source, and then disconnect fitting from pre-sediment filter. 2. Disconnect both black tubes from Tee at end of filter. Blow air through all lines. 3. Remove filter from bracket then disconnect tubing from both ends of the R.O. housing. 4. Store filter and R.O. in a non-freezing place. 5. Open ph valve. 6. Either empty acid cleaning reservoir, or recharge it with acid, and then unplug unit. 7. Remove water from the brine tank down to the un-dissolved salt level. 8. Unplug unit until ready to put back into service WARNING: DO NOT COVER UNIT WHEN UNIT IS PLUGGED IN OR CONNECTED TO POWER. Saddle Valve Household water tap Unscrew nut and pull out black tubing to drain out water. J. TROUBLE SHOOTING 1. CAUSES FOR CHLORINE FUMES a. If a strong chlorine order is coming from the brine tank, check all the fittings coming from the anode side of cell (red wire side) to the Kynar 90º fitting in the six-inch cell housing and the Teflon tubing going from the top of the de-watering device to the top of the mixer. Be sure the fittings are tight and the Teflon tubing didn't come loose or pulled out during shipping. b. It is not unusual for some chlorine fumes to be generated by the unit during the break-in time i.e. the first few days or first 8 hours of run time. After the break-in time, if chlorine fumes continue it is usually caused by too little water entering the machine when the unit is operating. Check water flow as described in the flow section of the R.O. part of this manual (previous page). c. The chlorine vent tube was not installed correctly and extending away from unit. (see picture on page 3)

17 17 d. With a venturi installation, if the Genie time clock comes "on" when the filter pump is "off" or the venturi is not sucking during the time the filter is running, fumes will result. e. If the CHLORINE GENIE is plumbed into the pool fill line, and the CHLORINE GENIE is "on" when make-up water is added to the pool, chlorine fumes can result. 3. BRINE TANK WATER LEVEL: NOTE: WHEN GRAVITY FEEDING THE CHLORINE TO THE POOL, THE UNIT MUST BE INSTALLED HIGHER OR AT LEAST LEVEL WITH THE WATER IN POOL. a. When the ph valve is closed, the water level in the brine tank should be at the level of the angle cut ¾ PVC exit pipe (See picture below) b. When the ph valve is open, the water level in the brine tank will lower approximately 2 inches. c. If the water level in the brine tank is higher than the angled ¾ PVC exit pipe in the back of the brine tank, there is either too much water coming into the tank from the RO or there is a restriction in the chlorine line between the tank and the pool or the venturi is not sucking (Follow directions below:) Normal water Level in brine tank stays at top of angled ¾ PVC Exit Pipe. when ph Valve is CLOSED or in horizontal position. When the ph valve is OPEN or in the vertical position the level of the water will drop about 2 or 3 inches. INSIDE VIEW OF BRINE TANK d. Check the water flow coming from the R.O. as described in the R.O. section of this manual. If the incoming water flow is normal and the brine tank is still too full, follow instructions below: Disconnect the tubing from the chlorine exit pipe going to the pool. If the water exits the tank fast, the blockage is between the chlorine exit and the pool. Using a garden hose, force water into the pool through the chlorine line starting at the unit. Once blockage is removed, the amount of liquid going to the pool should equal the amount of water going into the unit and the water level in the brine tank should stay normal. e. After installing, if the liquid from the unit is not flowing freely to the pool, try the following: 1. Add more ON and Off dogs in a 24-hour period. That will give time for the brine tank to reach its normal water level between each cycle. 2. Install unit on raised blocks giving the unit more gravity flow to pool. 3. Use ½ PVC pipe for most of the distance to the pool to minimize the amount of ¼ Teflon tubing. f. If the water flow is normal coming into the unit, the line to the pool has been flushed and cleaned, the ph valve is closed, and the brine tank still fills slowly, it indicates that the amount of water exiting the

18 18 chlorine tube from the unit is less than the incoming water. There could be a little blockage inside the unit. In that case, follow directions below: 1. Follow the above directions and acid wash the cell. 2. If after the above items have been done, you still have a problem with water flow, call for service. K. POOL WATER CHEMISTRY (Use 4 in 1 test kit.) This is NOT hard smile! The ideal pool water chemistry for comfortable swimming is: 1. Chlorine: 1-2 ppm 2. ph: Total Alkalinity: Plaster pool: ; fiberglass pool: Cyanuric acid (stabilizer): ppm 1. CHLORINE The amount of chlorine produced by the CHLORINE GENIE is determined mainly by the length of time the unit runs. (More hours = more chlorine). Temperature affects production too. The Cyanuric level should be properly maintained 40-60ppm) to give good bacteria kill throughout the pool. 2. ph ADJUSTMENT USING COMMERCIAL CHEMICALS The pool ph should be maintained between 7.2 and 7.8. To test, follow directions in test kit. Ideal ph level is the same as the human body: 7.4. Test ph at least once a week during swimming season and once a month during the off season and adjust according to directions in test kit using soda ash to raise ph, and muriatic acid to lower ph. Failure to maintain proper ph can result in any of the following conditions: a. Low ph: If the ph drops below 7.0 or if acid is administered to the pool directly over the main drain or near the skimmer, the following can occur: 1. Copper pipes and copper alloy components can be etched which will shorten the life of the pool equipment and can cause a blue-green stain on the surface of the pool walls. 2. The plaster can be etched, softening the plaster and shortening its life and clouding the water. 3. Eye, nose and skin irritation can occur. b. High ph: If the ph is allowed to rise above 8.0, the following could occur: 3. TOTAL ALKALINITY 1. Calcium, magnesium or other hardness minerals could deposit onto the pool walls, causing brown or gray stains and a rough feel to the surface. The amount of deposit depends on the amount of dissolved mineral in the pool water. 2. Mineral build-up can occur in the circulating system, reducing the pump performance, clogging the filter, and calcifying the heater. 3. Eye, nose and skin irritation will likely occur. The total alkalinity (TA) of the pool water should be between 80 and 120 ppm in a plaster pool and between 150 and 200 in a fiberglass pool. Following the instructions in a reliable test kit, test total alkalinity once a month and adjust according to instructions in kit. TA acts as a buffer. It is much easier

19 to keep the ph right if the TA is right. Note: Suggested frequency of testing for total alkalinity: Once a month during the swimming season and once every 2-3 months during the off season. 19

20 20

21 21 ACID DEMAND TABLE If after testing pool water, the addition of acid to lower ph is required, use the following table: AMOUNT OF MURIATIC ACID REQUIRED ACCORDING TO "4 in 1" TEST KIT IN ORDER TO LOWER ph The following table shows amount of acid required to lower ph according to the 4 in 1 test kit for acid demand Gallons of water Drops of Acid Demand Reagent (Solution #3) oz. 0.4 oz. 6 oz. 8 oz. 1 oz. 1.2 oz. 1.4 oz. 1.6 oz. 1.8 oz. 2 oz oz. 0.8 oz. 12 oz. 1.6 oz. 2 oz. 2.4 oz. 2.8 oz. 3.2 oz. 3.6 oz. 4 oz oz. 1.2 oz. 1.8 oz. 2.4 oz. 3 oz. 3.6 oz. 4.2 oz. 4.8 oz. 5.4 oz. 6 oz. 1, oz. 1.6 oz. 2.4 oz. 3.2 oz. 4 oz. 4.8 oz. 5.6 oz. 6.4 oz. 7.2 oz. 8 oz. 2,500 1/4 cup 0.5 cup 0.75 cup 1 cup 1.25 cups 1.5 cups 1.75 cups 2 cups 2.25 cups 2.5 cups 5,000 1/2 cup 1 cup 1.5 cups 2 cups 2.5 cups 3 cups 3.5 cups 1 quart 2.25 pints 2.5 pints 10,000 1 cup 2 cups 1.5 pints 1 quart 2.5 pints 3 pints 3.5 pints 2 quarts 4.5 pints 2.5 quarts 0,000 2 cups 1 quart 1.5 quarts 2 quarts 2.5 quarts 3 quarts 3.5 quarts 1 gallon 4.5 quarts 5 quarts 30,000 3 cup 6 cups 2.25 quarts 3 quarts 1 gallon 4.5 quarts 1.25 gallons 1.5 gallons 1.75 gallons 2 gallons The pool should be tested for hardness once a year. Hardness refers to the quantity of calcium and magnesium in solution. Too high a hardness level in the presence of high ph can cause deposits to form on the pool walls and in the heater elements. Hardness is increased by leftover ingredients in some chlorine and by hard water added to the pool to make up distilled water lost by evaporation. A good rule of thumb is to drain and replace ½ to ¾ of the pool water every 3-4 years. This procedure should be repeated more often in areas where make-up water is more than 15 grains hard. The occasional exchange of pool water will also prevent the build-up of other undesirable elements. STABILIZER OR CYANURIC ACID The addition of Cyanuric Acid as a stabilizer is recommended when using the Chlorine Genie. Cyanuric Acid inhibits the rapid breakdown of chlorine due to the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Board of Health recommends: 40-60ppm. Use only 100% Cyanuric Acid (not CHLORINATED Cyanuric). 1. Clean filter and lint basket. 2. Measure out amount needed according to desired increase using table below. 3. Slowly add Cyanuric powder to skimmer with filter pump running (filter pump pressure will often rise). 4. Allow several days for Cyanuric to dissolve before repeating process. Do not attempt to raise Cyanuric Acid level more than 30ppm per application. A special test kit is available for testing Cyanuric Acid or take a sample of pool water to a reputable pool supply store for testing. 5. Test and adjust Cyanuric at the start of the swimming season and midway through the swimming season each year. Amount (ounces or pounds) of Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer) needed in order to raise the Cyanuric residual level in the pool is the amount shown in box where desired increase in ppm intersects with number of gallons of pool water. Gallons of Pool Water Desired increase in ppm 1,000 5,000 10, ,000 20,000 25,000 50, ppm 1.3 oz. 6.5 oz. 13 oz. 1.2 lbs. 1.6 lbs. 2.4 lbs. 4.0 lbs. 20 ppm 2.6 oz. 13 oz. 1.6 lbs. 2.4 lbs. 3.2 lbs. 4.8 lbs. 8.0 lbs. 30 ppm 3.9 oz. 1.2 lbs. 2.4 lbs. 3.6 lbs. 4.8 lbs. 7.2 lbs. 12 lbs. 40 ppm 5.2 oz. 1.6 lbs. 3.2 lbs. 4.8 lbs. 6.2 lbs. 9.6 lbs. 16 lbs. 50 ppm 6.5 oz. 2.0 lbs. 4.0 lbs. 6.0 lbs. 8.0 lbs. 12 lbs. 20 lbs. 60 ppm 7.8 oz. 2.4 lbs. 4.8 lbs. 7.2 lbs. 9.6 lbs lbs. 24 lbs. Note: Cyanuric level will eventually go down if no new Cyanuric is added. Be aware that many forms of commercial chlorine contain Cyanuric and frequent use can cause Cyanuric to rise to unsafe levels. Cyanuric in safe levels (40-60ppm) is highly recommended but if it gets too high (100+) it renders the chlorine ineffective even though there is adequate chlorine reading and may cause eye irritation and allow algae and bacteria to grow. TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS Total dissolved solids (TDS) are all solids that are in solution in the pool water. Test once a year for (TDS). It is recommended that when TDS approaches 4,000 ppm the water in the pool be drained (all or part) and refilled with fresh water.

22 22 The Chlorine Genie Warranty Certificate: 5 Year Limited Warranty This warranty applies only to those items manufactured by Chlorine Genie, Inc. You are now the proud owner of the unique, automatic CHLORINE GENIE. Chlorine Genie, Inc. TAKES SUCH PRIDE IN THE CAREFUL WORKMANSHIP AND HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS USED IN THE CHLORINE GENIE, that the company warrants your unit, while in your possession at the original place of installation (providing Chlorine Genie, Inc. or one of its dealers installed the unit) to be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of FIVE YEARS from (date of installation) as follows: 1. The first 90 days this warranty includes any Service Calls related to warranty issues (trip charge, labor and parts). After the first 90 days, this warranty does not include the service call (trip charge) or freight charges to or from the factory or nearest factory-authorized dealer. 2. During the remainder of the first year, Chlorine Genie, Inc. will replace or repair any defective part of your CHLORINE GENIE without cost to you for parts and labor, F.O.B. our factory or nearest factory authorized dealer. Chlorine Genie, Inc. reserves the right to replace the entire unit without extending the life of this warranty. 3. During the next four years of this warranty, any single repair or replacement of any defective part will be repaired or replaced F.O.B. our factory or nearest factory authorized dealer at a cost not to exceed $ per CHLORINE GENIE single cell unit. The RO pre-sediment filter and cartridge, which are routine maintenance parts, and trip charges to the home after the first 90 days are not covered by this warranty. LIMITATIONS AND EXCLUSIONS: Damage to the CHLORINE GENIE by acts of God, such as earthquake, freeze, flood, etc. or damage by fire, misuse, abuse whether chemical, accidental or by deliberate vandalism, negligence, or failure to follow instructions as contained in the Owner s CD or Manual, voids this warranty. Failure to follow routine maintenance procedures, including, but not limited to, cleaning the cell monthly with acid, voids the warranty. Letting the unit run out of salt could pacify the cell and will void this warranty. After the first 90 days this warranty does not include service calls (trip charges). Warranty does not include loss of chemicals or water if pool needs to be drained nor damage to pool surface caused by neglect or lack of proper maintenance including balancing chemicals. This warranty is expressly IN LIEU of any other express or implied warranty, including any implied WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS, and of any other obligation on the part of Chlorine Genie, Inc. I purchased my CHLORINE GENIE from City State Installation was done by on the day of Serial Number Installed by Chlorine Genie, Inc Blum Rd., Martinez, CA 94553; Phone ; Fax ; Web site Patent US#8,470,143B2 and Patent Pending