NEXT CAMINO GATHERING: El Primero Café Con Leche Del Dia Ramblings with Jose Vega

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1 NEXT CAMINO GATHERING: Saturday 16 November at 3.00 pm for 3.30 The Spanish Australian Club of Canberra WHAT IS THE CAMINO GATHERING? The Camino Gathering is a regular meeting for those that are interested in the 1,000 year old Spanish pilgrims walk through Spain called the Camino De Santiago. Over 100,000 people from all over the world walk some part of the Camino every year. There are many Camino routes in Spain but they all end up in the Galician capital city of Santiago De Compostela (Saint James of the Field of Stars). The Camino can range from 100km walk to over 1,500km and can be done walking, cycling or on horseback. PROGRAM All are welcome to come along and enjoy good company, Spanish wines and beers and riveting conversation! Check out the Friends website for updates: Pre-meet social and drinks Talk: Standards of Accommodation and Etiquette Doug Fiztgerald A look at Wal s Winter Backpack (mochila de invierno) General Q&A on the Camino. About the talk. Doug Fiztgerald has walked the Camino Frances and Saint Olav s Way (Norway) and other walks here and overseas. Doug will talk about the differing levels of accommodation you will find along the Camino Frances, what to expect when you arrive at your accommodation at the end of the days walk and etiquette issues when you are potentially sharing sleeping and bathroom areas with strangers. Wal Wolzak is heading off to his winter Camino in the next few weeks and has packed his backpack which he will be bringing in to show you what a winter Camino backpack looks like. El Primero Café Con Leche Del Dia Ramblings with Jose Vega canberracamino@gmail.com Welcome to the Canberra Friends of the Camino November December 2013 Newsletter which will be the last newsletter until The last gathering was held at the Paddy Pallin Store in the city. Jeremy from Paddy Pallin gave a very thorough and knowledgeable talk on hiking gear and the features to look out for when choosing clothes and equipment for the Camino taking into consideration the season of the year you are walking. My many thanks goes to the store s manager Rune Pettersen, the speaker Jeremy and also to Wal Wolzak for organising the talk in the first place. As this is the last newsletter for the year I would like to give my thanks to all those peregrinos that have contributed to gathering as well as the newsletter. Without your contributions we would not have a Friends groups here in Canberra and also my many thanks to the managers of the Spanish Australian Club of Canberra for letting us use their facilities for free and allowed this group to function without asking for monetary contributions from members. Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago Spanish Australian Club of Canberra ACT Inc 5 Narupai Place, Narrabundah, ACT, 2604 ph: (02)

2 2 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago Next year we have a number of people lined up to give talks at our meetings but I am always interested in hearing from people that want to contribute to our gatherings by way of presenting a topic related to the Camino De Santiago. The talks for next year in the pipeline are (in no particular order): Alex Tewes Photography On the Camino Paul Mullins Setting the Tempo along the Camino Wal Wolzak A Winter s Camino Walk Jose Vega A Cultural Tour of the Camino Mozarabe Juan Rodriguez A Gourmet s Tour of the Camino Frances After the November meeting we intend to hold a social gathering of the Friends on 21st December. A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all and remember on the Camino it s the journey not the destination (la meta) that matters. Thank you to all for been part of this journey during the year and contributing with your stories of the Camino with the rest of us in the group. Buen Camino INFORMATION ABOUT SPAIN AND THE CAMINO Spanish national holidays Each province of Spain has their own regional holidays, however, there are nine national holidays observed throughout Spain. Each region is allowed a maximum of 14 public holidays per year. There are also hundreds of regional and local festivals and saints days. January 1: New Year s Day, Año Nuevo March-April (varies, Friday before Easter): Good Friday, Viernes Santo May 1: Labor Day, Dia del Trabajador August 15: Assumption Day, Día de la Asunción October 12: Spanish National Holiday, Fiesta Nacional de España November 1: All Saints Day, Día de Todos los Santos (also Day of the Dead) December 6, Constitution Day, Día de la Constitución December 8, Immaculate Conception Day, Día de la Inmaculada Concepción December 25: Christmas, la Navidad Perhaps the most famous regional holiday in Spain is the San Fermínes festival in Pamplona, celebrated July 6-14 of each year. The albergues in Pamplona are not open during San Fermin and all accommodations become very expensive and most are booked months in advance.. Business Hours Normal business hours in Spain are approximately 9am-2pm and 5pm-8pm, with the famous long afternoon break, the siesta. In small villages, hours may be even more limited. Siesta time is very important to remember if you are planning on buying groceries or pharmacy items upon arrival after a day of walking. It can be very frustrating to arrive hungry and exhausted at 2pm and realize you can t buy any food (except more expensive bar fare) for three more hours! Bars along the camino generally open early, at least during high season, for the brisk business of pilgrim breakfast and cafe con leche. It s a good idea to have some snacks with you in the morning, in case you do not find an open cafe for several hours. On Sundays almost all shops are closed, though some small shops will open up for a short time for hungry pilgrims. Plan ahead if you are preparing your own meals. In big cities, such as Burgos and Leon, large chain groceries stores are often open through the siesta hours, but rarely on Sundays. Pharmacy hours in small towns and villages can be very limited (sometimes only one day per week for a few hours), whereas in cities there are 24-hour pharmacies available. Restaurants and bars are open on Sundays, as well as museums. Post office hours in cities are generally 8:30am-8:30pm, with reduced hours on Saturdays and closed on Sundays. Small town post offices are more likely only open 8:30am-2:30pm. Many museums in Spain are closed on Mondays.

3 3 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago Compostela/Certificate Provided you have walked at least the last 100km of the camino (or 200km by bicycle) you are eligible to receive an official Compostela, written in Latin, as proof of completing the pilgrimage. Present yourself at the pilgrim office along with your credential (there is often a long line). You will be asked whether the motive of your journey was religious. If you say yes, you receive the full compostela, if you say no you receive an alternate certificate of completion. Additional certificates are awarded for pilgrims completing the journey to Finisterre (fisterrana) and Muxia (muxiana). The Cathedral s Office of the Pilgrim presents travelers who journey in a spirit of faith ( with a religious/christian motivation, as the Cathedral s 1999 Jubilee Year Compostelan brochure notes,) at least 100 kilometers (about 60 miles) on foot or horseback or at least 200 kilometers (about 120 miles) by bicycle with a Compostela, a replica of an eleventh-century document verifying the completion of their pilgrimage. The translation of the Latin text of the Compostela reads: The Chapter of this Holy Apostolic Metropolitan Cathedral of St. James, custodian of the seal of St. James Altar, to all faithful and pilgrims who come from everywhere over the world as an act of devotion, under vow or promise to the Apostle s Tomb, our Patron and Protector of Spain, witnesses in the sight of all who read this document, that: Mr has visited devoutly this Sacred Church in a religious sense (pietatis causa). Witness whereof I hand this document over to him, authenticated by the seal of this Sacred Church. Given in St. James de Compostela on the (day) (month) A.D. Chapter Secretary When To Go Your choice of dates will likely depend on what is available with your schedule and committments, and it s possible to take the journey during any month of the year. The two main factors in determining when to go are climate and volume of hikers, each with their respective advantages and disadvantages. May, June, September and October are often considered the best months to walk, as temperatures are moderate and hiker volume is low, reducing the stress of competitions for beds. However, each time we ve been on the camino in the middle of summer, we ve rarely had trouble finding a bed. If you find yourself in a large clump of pilgrims, consider taking a rest day or walking to one of the smaller albergues between the major cities and sites. If there are crowds no matter what and you are struggling to find a bed, consider using private albergues and calling to reserve the day before or morning of that you plan to arrive. Another way to walk the full route, if you do not have five or more weeks to walk, is to split the trail up into sections, and walk them in different trips. Many pilgrims walk one or two weeks per year, completing the entire route over the course of several years. Others skip a few days or weeks in the middle by taking a bus or train, in order to walk the highlights of the route in a shorter time. You may be tempted to begin close to Santiago and walk the last week or few days in Galicia. Be aware that this section, especially in high season, is the most popular and often over-crowded. Summer (June-August) By far the most popular time to walk the camino is summer, particularly June-August, which accounts for more than half of the yearly pilgrim traffic. St. James Day is July 25, and many pilgrims try to time their walk to arrive on this day. During Holy Years, when July 25 falls on a Sunday, the camino becomes an overpacked madhouse and swells to almost double the pilgrims! No need to worry just yet, the next Holy Years aren t until 2021, 2027, and Sometimes there is competition for beds because of overcrowding, particularly on the last 100 km/60miles. The weather, especially on the Meseta, can be beastly hot during summer, and long days require starting early and resting mid-day. Some hikers walk later in the evening, as the sun sets as late as 10pm. Spring and Fall (September-October, April-May) The shoulder seasons of spring and fall are

4 4 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago increasing in popularity because of milder weather and greater availability of accommodations. Spring is a wonderful time to encounter wildflowers, migratory birds and cooler weather, though be prepared for plenty of rain and chilly temperatures at night. Late September through October offer pleasant walking weather and is the time of wine harvest for any oenophile (wine lover) pilgrims. We recommend these seasons as a good option to beat the crowds and summer heat. Winter (Nov-April) Winter is the least popular season for camino walking, with many albergues, cafes and attractions closed and with quite cold and stark weather. Those albergues that do remain open do not always have heat! Winter pilgrims may need to stay in private accommodations more often, adding expense. Mountain passes may be covered in snow and weather is unpredictable (it s not advised to walk Napoleon s Route on the first day to cross the Pyrenees). There are fewer daylight hours. Snow and rain may obscure trail markers, making it more difficult to stay on the right path. Pilgrims need to carry heavier packs to accommodate warmer clothing and sleeping bag. Ancha, just around the corner from the beautiful Leon cathedral, I say farewell to Gabi and Eli who have joined me for breakfast and then set off on the long and boring road out of Leon. However, winter pilgrims often report enjoyment of the solitude and friendship formed with other hearty walkers enduring the challenging weather. Plan more days into your schedule to deal with any unexpected circumstances such as weather, albergue availability and heavier packs. Check daily to see what accommodation options are available for your nights stay. How Life Long Friendships Develop On The Camino Wal Wolzak Thursday morning 17 April 2008, my first day that I walk alone on the Camino after sharing the way with Joe, Gabi and Eli; Joe left the Camino some days ago due to leg problems, Gabi (Gabriel from Leon) has gone home to his family due to ill health and Eli (from Denmark) has sunk into a state of depression with the loss of his companion, Gabi, and decides not want to walk this morning. Following a hearty breakfast of egg and bacon in hotel Paris in Calle Gabi is not well and decides to return home..country side near Mazarife Thank you to the Spanish Australian Club of Canberra ACT Inc. who continues to support this Friends group through the provision of free use of Club rooms and electronic equipment for our monthly meetings. Jose Vega for the Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago. FACEBOOK: The Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago is on Facebook. To join us on Facebook: 1 Go to Like Pages in your Facebook account. 2 Search for Canberra Friends of the Camino 3 Once on the Canberra Friends of the Camino page click on Like Page. You will then receive our regular post in your Facebook account. Contributions on topics related to the Camino are always welcomed any time to this newsletter. We will place your article or letter in the next available newsletter. Please send text in Word, RTF or plain text along with photos to: canberracamino@gmail.com.

5 5 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago Navigating through the suburbs and industrial estates is a slow and arduous task but eventually after 10km I find myself walking on undulating quiet country roads arriving at Chozas by lunchtime for a coke and sandwich and then on to Mazarife to arrive by 13:30, having covered 24km today The weather has been cold with a strong northerly wind blowing, overcast skies and light rain with some hail and the added pleasure of good Spanish muddy roads. In Mazarife I book into private hostel, Tio Pepe, which has good basic facilities and warm showers. I am shown to a four bed room which I am sharing with German television producer, Martin. This is a great opportunity to practice my poor German on Martin and he in return can practice his English on me. It doesn t take long to strike up an affinity with this fellow pilgrim who displays a happy and easy going disposition and loves his café con leche, smokes and a cold beer at the end of the day. San Javier, near the cathedral, which is a converted historic building with lots of character and a friendly hospitalero who is busy stoking the big open fire in the middle of the sitting room. The accommodation although comfortable, is too hot during the night due to the open fire down on the ground floor. This has been a most enjoyable stay with a lovely group of people. I would linger longer in this lovely historic city to have a closer look at the cathedral and Bishops Palace and sample their chocolates but alas time does not permit. Rising early the following morning we have a quick breakfast and are on the road again by 07:30." I Wal on outskirts of Astorga Cathedral and Bishops Place Astorga Friday morning we walk together, leaving early under grey skies and a strong southerly blustery wind. Temperatures are low and there is still a thick coating of frost covering the landscape in a white blanket. The countryside today is flat and like so much of the Camino devoted to agriculture, dissected by numerous farm tracks and roads deep with dirty clingy mud. After lunch we cross the historical 13th Century Puerto de O'rbigo bridge and although the afternoon brings more rain, cold and mud, Martin and I share lengthy conversations in a mixture of German and English before arriving at Astorga after a brisk 32km walk. Astorga was an ancient Roman settlement but now a very beautiful city with a large cathedral and the Bishops Palace designed by Gaudi. Martin directs us to the albergue

6 On the way to El Ganso Saturday 19 April 08 - Leaving Astorga under overcast sky with fine drizzle but thankfully no wind makes for an easy walk to Rabanal along well made paths with minimal mud. In Santa Catalina we stop for the obligatory café con leche although we had a very nice breakfast before leaving Astorga Albergue. Our second coffee stop is El Ganso by which time the rain has become persistent and temperatures are on the way down as we ascended higher. Reaching Rabanal at lunchtime we decided to stay in Albergue El Tesin for the night. Although very clean and new the building lacks heating in the bedrooms and is bitterly cold. In the adjoining bar we join a number of other pilgrims and share a table for lunch and social beer or two. The afternoon is devoted to washing and drying our clothing on racks in front of the open fire in the tiny lounge room. Tonight everyone is in bed early in preparation for a tough walk tomorrow in snowy and wet weather conditions. During the night I am struck down with a severe stomach bug that makes me violently ill with gastro and vomiting. Awaking at two o clock, feeling extremely nauseas, I fight to get out of my sleeping bag in time and rush to the toilet only to find it occupied. 6 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago Dinner in Albergue El Tesin Martin sitting in front of window Foncebadon Walking into Sunday 20 April 08 - This morning I wake feeling awful, like death warmed up, however if I am to meet Joe in Sarria I have no option but to continue walking. Martin has his breakfast in the bar and on his return asked if I will be walking today; he indicates that he will walk with me but first I have to eat something or have a coke to settle the stomach. I can t help thinking how generous it is of someone who hardly knows me to show so much concern and consideration. Martin insists on walking behind me so that I set the pace and he can keep an eye on me in case I become ill again. Most of the first 15km is steep uphill and taxing on wet, muddy, rocky and broken slate paths. The drizzle is now interspersed with light snow flurries and today I feel the bitter cold seep through my clothing. It is Sunday and Martin is lost in his own thoughts and own world. From when we left Rabanal until midday, Martin has a period of silence, a time to reflect on something which happened on a previous Camino but which he does not wish to discuss. He did say that on his first Camino two teenagers froze to death in the Pyrenees but he does not go into any details. Arriving for the first con leche stop at Foncebadon bar, Martin is still in his quiet period and refuses talk to anyone. The barman who takes our order asks Martin what he wants and I indicated by putting first my hands over my ears and then my mouth that Martin is not talking. The barman understands this to mean that Martin is a deaf mute and immediately starts talking to me in sign language, something I don t understand in English let alone Spanish. Later we both have a good laugh about this funny little incident. Martin continues his personal spiritual vigil until we leave Cruz de Ferro after which he returned to his chatty old self again. The downhill sections of the route are treacherous with steep tracks across upturned slate, awash with running water and slimy

7 7 Canberra Friends of the Camino De Santiago mud. Late in the afternoon we arrived at Molinaseca having covered 30km on one of the tougher parts of the Camino, walking in rain, sleet or light snow and running on Coca-Cola. The Albergue where we stay is so new that the heating has not been connected and we have arrived on the first day of opening to the public. Not long after settling in I am in bed and sleep until 06:30 the following morning. Once again the next day my walk is undertaken on one apple and copious quantities of Coca-Cola and it is not until our arrival at Villafranca that I feel well enough to have a light meal. friendships formed during these short few days have continued through to the present and whenever the opportunity permits we share s or visit each other. Martin and I walked together again in 2010 and will be joining me this year between Pamplona and Burgos for my third Camino so that I will not walk alone on my birthday and after that he returns to Stuttgart. I will be meeting Gabi in Leon to share a glass of vino tinto or meal with him and another pilgrim, Hector (the Director), will come from Madrid to visit me in Santiago for just one day during the Christmas 2013 festive season. The Camino has many lessons amongst which the most important is that you can never be blasé about your health and what can happen along the way, but the care and concern from other pilgrims will ensure that you are looked after and no harm will come to you. On this my first Camino, Joe had leg problems, Gabi had chest problems, Martin ongoing knee problems and I had food poisoning, but in the end we all made it to Santiago, with the exception of Gabi, and Eli rejoined the group at Portomarin. The