YOUR CAMINO On foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain

Transcription

1 YOUR CAMINO On foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain By Sylvia Nilsen with Greg Dedman LightFoot Guides

2 Your Camino

3 Your Camino: On foot, bicycle or horseback in France and Spain Published in 2011 by Paul Chinn and Babette Gallard ISBN: Pilgrimage Publications 2011 Text and photographs: Sylvia Nilsen with Greg Dedman 2011 Sketches: Sandi Beukes 2011 First edition, July 2011 Maps: Courtesy of Front cover image: Sandi Beukes All rights reserved. No part of the publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise except brief extracts for the purpose of a review, without permission of the publisher and copyright owner. The authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of this LightFoot Guide to the Camino. They accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information contained in this guide. Changes are inevitable and we welcome any feedback on changes that will enable us to enhance the quality of this guide. Use the contact form on the website YourCamino.weebly.com for suggestions, corrections, news about the routes or for general comments about the guide. Updates will be posted regularly on the Your Camino website. Extra websites: amawalker.blogspot.com/ Youtube video channel - Facebook fan page search Your Camino Contents About the authors Acknowledgments Introduction El Camino de Santiago de Compostela El Camino Is the Camino only for religious people? What is it really like? Why do people do the Camino? The Compostela About this guide Chapter 1 Learning about the Camino In this chapter The Internet Confraternities and associations of St. James Confraternity websites Other useful websites Forums Books on the Camino Pilgrims stories Classics Guide books Maps Films and DVDs Documentaries Pilgrim stories Tourism offices A pilgrim s story Chapter 2 In this chapter When is the right time? Weather Weather Tables The main routes in Spain Considerations Route conditions Camino Frances Camino del Norte Via de la Plata Equipment Precautions Route markings A pilgrim s story Chapter 3 In this chapter Which route Routes in France Other French routes Routes in Spain The main route in Spain Routes in the north

4 About the authors Sylvia Nilsen, well known in the Camino world for her amawalker blog and as Sillydoll on the Camino forums, is a South African freelance writer who has been published in numerous local and international publications. She worked as a research agent and editor for a UK-based travel guide publisher and produced several African city and country guides. Sylvia has walked over km of Camino trails, including Paris to Spain, the Camino Frances from Roncesvalles to Santiago (twice), from Lourdes to Pamplona, el Ferrol to Santiago, Santiago to Finisterre and from Switzerland to Rome on the Via Francigena. She led a group of pilgrims on the Camino Frances in June She has served as a volunteer hospitalero in Spain and is a Spanish accredited hospitalero volunteer trainer in South Africa having trained 42 new volunteers. Sylvia was the Regional Co-ordinator for the Confraternity of St James in South Africa from 2003 to Her passion and knowledge of all things Camino shine through in this book. Greg Dedman, from Letchworth Garden City, UK, has compiled and translated several free Camino guides from Spanish sources. In 2001 he solo backpacked Western Europe and became a moderator and backpacker adviser on returning to Switzerland several times a year to lead informal hikes in the Alps. In 2007 he walked the Camino Frances and worked in the Italian Dolomite Mountains as a hike leader. From Italy, he went to Canada to work as a snowshoe guide, then back to Italy for a year of hike, ski and snowshoe guiding. He then moved to Tuscany, Italy, working as a walk and cycle trip organiser. In 2010 he walked the Camino Frances in autumn and winter. He is presently working in the UK as an assistant manager for an outdoor store. He did not hesitate to accept Sylvia s invitation to collaborate on this planning guide and has contributed chapters on technology, weather, food and the appendix on language.

5 Acknowledgments People who shared information from their websites include: Backpacking.net and Alpkit.com. Antonio Barrero Aviles helped in compiling the list of religious relics along the Camino. He has over records and photographs of relics in Spain. You can see some of his huge collection of photographs here: Adrian Fletcher of Paradox Place gave permission to use some of his photographs: Joan Fiol Gronze.com gave permission to use her lovely graphic maps of all the Camino routes. Thank you to the wonderful pilgrims who helped with the chapters on disability, dogs, donkeys, horses, cycling and children. These include Kim Atchley who shared her experience walking with Nigel, her service dog, and Tyrell Heathcote who contributed her expertise as a person with a disability walking the Camino, using her very able editing skills to tidy up the chapter on disability. Barbara contributed her knowledge of walking with Dalie her donkey and Babette Gallard the pages on horse riding the Camino. Riaan van Zyl and Bikingsa for the cycling chapter, and Nicola who walked with her five-month-old baby Rio, and Graham and Elaine who walked with little Elliott and helped with the chapter on walking with a baby and toddler. Thank you to the many thousands of pilgrims who helped, albeit unknowingly, with the compilation of this book! Since 2002 I have collected frequently asked questions from different Camino related forums and websites. In 2003 Piers Nicholson added Sylvia s Top Tips for Walkers based on over 400 posts to his Santiago-Compostela.net forum web page, one of the most active forums around at that time. The main source of questions since 2004 has been Ivar Revke s forum Pilgrimage-to- Santiago where I am a veteran poster. Without the daily questions and answers compiled from the members of the forums this book would not have been possible. Thank you to my colleague, Greg Dedman, who volunteered to collaborate on the book, sharing his skill and knowledge on technology, weather, language and food. And a special thanks to Sandi Beukes, not only a dear friend but a wonderful artist, who volunteered her gorgeous, quirky illustrations, and also helped with the design and layout of the book. Pilgrimage Publications: We are especially grateful to Babette and Paul at Pilgrimage Publications for believing in us and taking our book on as a project Introduction El Camino de Santiago de Compostela Sounds intriguing and exotic and it is! In the 12th and 13th centuries el Camino de Santiago de Compostela was the most popular pilgrimage trail in Europe and Santiago de Compostela was one of the three most important pilgrimage destinations in the world. (The other two were Jerusalem and Rome.) El Camino Camino means the way. It is from the Spanish word caminar, to walk. Santiago Yaakov Ben-Zebedi (also known as James the Greater) was one of Christ s twelve Apostles. The original Hebrew name became Iacobus in Latin, Jakob in German, Jacopo in Italian, Iago in Spanish and James in English. Compostela Some linguists claim that the name is derived from the Latin word compostium meaning burial place. Others say that is from campus stellae or field of stars. Together the three words form the name el Camino de Santiago de Compostela The Way of St James in the Field of the Stars. What is the Camino? The Camino (The Way) is the name commonly used for a network of hundreds of medieval pilgrimage trails across Europe all leading to the tomb of St James the Greater in Santiago de Compostela, the city named after him near the west coast of northern Spain. Legend claims that James (brother of the apostle John) evangelised in Spain after the death of Christ. When he returned to Jerusalem around 44 AD, he was beheaded by Herod Agrippa 1, thus becoming the first Christian martyr. His friends snuck his body (and his head) out of Jerusalem and he was taken to Spain in a stone boat with no sails, blown across the sea by angels! He was buried on a hillside near Compostela. The tomb was forgotten for about 800 years but around 813 a hermit by the name of Pelayo saw a field of stars above a mound and, on investigation, discovered a Christian necropolis. The remains were identified by the local bishop as those of James the Greater. The news of the discovery spread through the Christian world like wildfire and soon thousands of pilgrims started trekking to his tomb in Spain.

6 A few years later Sant Iago was seen on a white horse brandishing a hefty sword at the battle of Clavijo between Christians and Muslims and he became known as Santiago Matamoros, the Moor Slayer. Sant Iago became the Patron Saint of Spain and soon millions of pilgrims started trekking across Europe to pay homage at his shrine. James the fisherman evolved from Santiago the Apostle, to Santiago the Peregrino (pilgrim), to Santiago Matamoros (Moor slayer) to Santiago Mataindios (killer of Indians) to Santiago Mataespañois (killer of Spaniards) but that s another story! Although the Black Death, wars and the reformation of the church in the 15th and 16th centuries brought an end to the heydays of the great Christian pilgrimages, including the pilgrimage to Santiago, after 400 years of slumber pilgrims are once again trekking the old trails to the tomb of the saint in ever-increasing numbers. Santiago de Compostela was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in El Camino de Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route in Spain was proclaimed the first European cultural itinerary by the Council of Europe in 1987 and in 1993 it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site The Camino in different languages Spanish: el Camino de Santiago de Compostela English: The Way of St James French: Le Chemin de St Jacques de Compostelle Portuguese: O Caminho de Santiago German: Jakobsweg Italian: Il Cammino di Santiago di Compostela Is the Camino only for religious people? No its not. It was originally a Catholic pilgrimage but today hundreds of thousands of hikers, cyclists and people on horseback from all walks of life trek the many Camino trails each year. You ll find Catholics, Protestants, Jews, Buddhists, Taoists, atheists and secular humanists all plodding the trail to Santiago de Compostela. There are as many reasons for doing a Camino as there are pilgrims and although many do it for spiritual reasons, not all do it for religious reasons. What is it really like? Physically most Camino routes are long, hard, cross country tracks on surfaces ranging from grassy paths, rock, shale, gravel, asphalt and river boulder trails with a little road walking in and out of villages and towns. One usually walks every day, in rain, wind, sun, hot and cold weather. The average pilgrim sleeps in dormitories with other pilgrims in basic pilgrim shelters and eats frugal pilgrim meals. Those who do it on their own usually carry everything they possess on their backs for the duration of the pilgrimage, with two sets of clothes so that they wear one, wash one, day after day after day! Why do people do the Camino? Some do it for religious reasons. Some people do it at a turning point in their lives, perhaps after losing their job or having to make a new career choice. Many people walk the Camino after surviving a life-changing illness or suffering the loss of a loved one. Others merely enjoy the challenge of a long-distance hike, or have a special interest in medieval history or art. There is a saying that the pilgrimage will be what the pilgrim wants it to be. Many people who start the Camino for one reason, end up finding a different reason along the trail. For others, what they thought about being a pilgrim changes by the time they reach Santiago. They might start off doing a pilgrimage and end up finding that they are the pilgrimage! Many become addicted and yearn to go back to recapture the freedom and simplicity of the long-distance trail and the camaraderie where Everyman is a pilgrim.

7 Part One Chapter 1 Learning about the Camino The Compostela On arrival at the Pilgrim s Office in Santiago, pilgrims who present their stamped credencial (pilgrim passport) and testify to doing the Camino for religious and/or spiritual reasons, and who walk or horseback ride the last 100 km of the trail to the city of Santiago de Compostela, receive the Compostela certificate. This is a copy of a 14th century document, in Latin, validating their pilgrimage to the shrine. (Cyclists need to cover the last 200 km.) Read as much as you can about the Camino before you go. There is so much history and folklore, so many traditions and legends that it would be a pity if you missed something really important like the resting place of the Holy Grail, a Templar castle, or where to find the best wine because you didn t know about it! In 1986 less than pilgrims received the Compostela certificate. This number has grown exponentially and in 2010, a Holy Year (see Chapter 18) over pilgrims were awarded the Compostela. It is estimated that a further pilgrims did various sections of the pilgrimage trails in France and Spain. You might have read about the Camino, seen a documentary or film about it, or you have heard about it from a friend and it has fired your imagination. Now el Camino is calling you and you want to go! But, you ve got a million questions. Where is it exactly? Where should you start? How do you get there? How long will it take? How much will it cost? What should you pack? Where will you sleep? Can you do a solo hike? Is it safe for women? Can you take your faithful pet with you? What if you have a disability? The LIGHTFOOT GUIDE YOUR CAMINO provides all the information you ll need to learn about the Camino and to plan for a trek on any route in France or Spain, whether it is on foot, bicycle, horseback, in a wheelchair, with your children, with your pet dog, or a donkey. (Yes, some people still ride long distances and others take donkeys to carry their gear!) About this guide Based on hundreds of Frequently Asked Questions on forums and at workshops we ve included tips on when to go and how to choose a route, guide books and maps, how to get there and back home, preparation and training, budgets, hiking gear, equipment, accommodation and food. We ve even added a few things most people don t know to ask about like hiring a donkey, walking barefoot, or running the Camino. This is not a book that you will take with you on the Camino; it is a book you can t afford to be without before you go, to help you plan the journey of a lifetime! Buy a good guide book, hire or buy a few DVDs there are some great ones out there and they will give you an idea of what the terrain is like and the various regions you will pass through. Speak to other pilgrims, if not in person, on one of the many Camino-related Internet forums, join your local Confraternity of Saint James and attend their practical workshops. Remember, your understanding of what you see when you do a Camino will be based on what you know so get reading and surfing the net using our extensive suggested top websites. In this chapter The Internet Books on the Camino Films and DVDs Tourism offices

8 The Internet Confraternities and associations of St. James With the reanimation of the Ways of Santiago, Confraternities of Saint James have been reborn. The earliest modern-day confraternities, and Friends of Santiago, were started in France in the 1950s and in Spain in the 1960s. The Confraternity of St James in the UK was founded in In Belgium the Genootschap of Santiago was started in 1985/6 and from then on, new confraternities were established in many European countries as well as in South America, the United States, Canada, South Africa and even in Korea. Confraternities offer hands-on advice and support through newsletters, practical workshops, gatherings and film shows. Some confraternities offer hospitalero training for returning pilgrims so that they can return to the Camino and volunteer as wardens in the pilgrim refuges in France and Spain. There is a wealth of documented evidence of medieval gilds and confraternities of St James in Europe promoting the cult of St James as early as the 12th century. With the decline of the pilgrimage starting in the early 16th century the majority of these closed down. The associations are excellent sources of information on walking, cycling or doing a Camino on horseback. Some offer online forums, which is a great way to learn about the specific Camino route you wish to follow from experienced pilgrims willing to share their expertise and knowledge. Others publish guide books on the many Camino trails which are updated annually. Confraternity websites America Pilgrims on the Camino Australia Australian Friends of the Camino Inc. info@afotc.org Austria Salzburg Tirol Sankt Jakobs Bruderschaft TIP: There might be a Confraternity in your country, but if not, perhaps you will be inspired to start one when you return from your Camino and help other wanna-be pilgrims achieve their dreams of trekking a Camino. Confraternity websites America Pilgrims on the Camino Australia Austria Salzburg Tirol Belgium Brazil Australian Friends of the Camino Inc. info@afotc.org Sankt Jakobs Bruderschaft Compostela Genootschap ACACS-SP Associação de Confrades e Amigos do Caminho de Santiago de Compostela

9 Belgium Brazil Canada Quebec Compostela Genootschap ACACS-SP Associação de Confrades e Amigos do Caminho de Santiago de Compostela The Company of Pilgrims Puerto Rico Romania South Africa Spain Assoc de Amigos del Camino de Santiago asocdeamigosdelcaminodesantiagodepr.blogspot.com Explore Camino explorecamino.ro Confraternity of St James Amigos del Camino England Confraternity of St James Sweden Pilgrims Info France Paris Breton Association of the friends of St James of Compostela Société des Amis de Saint Jacques de Compostelle (The oldest of the Jacobean Associations, founded in 1950 in Paris) Vézelay Via Lemovicensis Association de Coopération Interrégionale les Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle Switzerland Switzerland Jakobsnet Jakobsnet Other useful websites TIP: A few websites might be in Spanish or French but using a Google-translate facility on your browser toolbar will help you to find a wealth of information from the different sites. Germany Ireland Italy Netherlands Norway Jacobus The Irish Society of the Friends of St James Confraternita di San Jacopo Nederlands Genootschap van Sint Jakob The Confraternity of St James, Norway English French Peter Robins extensive site with the history, lists and maps of all pilgrimage trails in Europe including the Camino routes pilgrim.peterrobins.co.uk Grant Spangler has an excellent site with transport advice, maps, language, etc. A wide range of Chemin St Jacques and Camino guides at Aventure Plein Air lepere.editions.free.fr The website for St Jean Pied de Port: Au coeur du chemin les Amis de Chemin de St Jacques des Pyrénées Atlantiques Poland Portugal Przyjaciele Dróg św. Jakuba Caminho de Santiago Spanish Excellent site with updated pages on all the albergues and the many different routes in Spain plus a budget calculator caminodesantiago.consumer.es Descriptions, maps, profiles for all the Spanish routes; an on line souvenir shop, credencials on-line, cycle hire, accommodation booking.

10 A large site with information on routes, albergues, an online shop, guide books, statistics, etc. Gronze excellent site with graphic maps for all the routes. Website of the official Xacobeo Organisation promoting the pilgrimage in Galicia and the rest of Spain Santiago The Archbishopric of Santiago The Archbishopric of Santiago website of pilgrim statistics Forums Online forums are a great place to ask questions or share advice with other pilgrims. Most travel websites like Lonely Planet, VirtualTourist and Tripadvisor, to name a few, have online forums where travellers ask questions about the countries, regions or cities that they plan to visit. The Camino forums are the best places for experienced peregrinos to share their knowledge with wanna-be peregrinos planning their trips. They are excellent sources of information and advice. Many of the most frequently asked questions on forums are answered in this guide book. English Based in Santiago one of the largest and busiest forums on the Internet Pilgrimage-to-santiago.com Santiagobis started by a Dutch pilgrim, one of the oldest on the Internet groups.yahoo.com/group/santiagobis Based in the website of the American Pilgrims on the Camino gocamino.oakapple.net Forum belonging to the Camino de Santiago Me website Saint James at Yahoo groups.yahoo.com/group/saintjames Based in the Portuguese website Caminho de Santiago Spanish Multilingual Camino de Santiago E-zine es.groups.yahoo.com/group/camino-desantiago

11 Cyclists Ultreia, Camino de Santiago interam.com/camino/ groups.yahoo.com/group/santiago_bicicleta/ Books on the Camino Since the reanimation of the pilgrimage routes in Europe, hundreds of books have been written about the Camino by pilgrims, academics and guide book publishers. You can buy pilgrims stories, historical and cultural handbooks, guide books for walking, cycling, horseback riding or driving the different routes in France and Spain. Classics A Journey to the West by Domenico Laffi The diary of a 17th century pilgrim from Bologna to Santiago de Compostela by Domenico Laffi and translated by James A Hall. (csj.org.uk). The Way of Saint James Vol. I, II, III by Georgiana Goddard King King s three-volume masterpiece is based on her three years of wandering on foot and by cart, mule and other conveyance on the Spanish pilgrimage road. Completed in 1917, this is a wideranging exploration of the history, literature, legends and architecture of the Camino de Santiago (Barnes and Noble). Pilgrims stories Most libraries stock books on the Camino pilgrimage and a quick Internet search will reveal a few thousand results for pilgrims stories about their Camino journey. Famous books include The Pilgrimage by Paulo Coehlo, The Camino by Shirley Maclaine and I m Off Then by German comedian, Hape Kerkeling, whose book became the biggest selling title in Germany and has been translated into many other languages. There are also many books written by priests, politicians and everyday pilgrims like you and me! Academic and cultural The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook by David M. Gitlitz and Linda K. Davidson is considered to be the consummate handbook to the history, traditions, folklore, art, architecture, geology, fauna and flora of the Camino Frances. The Pilgrim Guide to Santiago de Compostela by Annie Shaver-Crandell and Paula Gerson: English translation from the original Latin of the 12th century Pilgrim Guide plus 730 entries listing all important towns, monuments and buildings (even those now lost) encountered by the 12th century pilgrim. Being a Pilgrim: Art and Ritual on the Medieval Routes to Santiago by Professors Kathleen Ashley and Marilyn Deegan (2009). A gorgeous coffee-table type book with spectacular photographs and excellent text on the four main routes through France leading to the Camino Frances. The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook features a chapter on the art styles of the Road highlighting the architecture from simple Romanesque to the soaring Gothic and elaborate Baroque. The Road to Santiago: Pilgrims of St James by Walter Starkie Combines extraordinary breadth of scholarship with the romantic insights and picaresque experiments of a born story-teller Michael Jacobs (csj.org.uk). The pilgrimage to Santiago by Edwin Mullin One of the first books to explore both the historic and contemporary pilgrimage in France and Spain (csj.org.uk).

12 Guide books You could walk the majority of the Camino routes without a guide book as most of the trails are marked with yellow arrows, shell motifs and posters, all pointing the way to Santiago. However, if you would like to learn about the countries and regions you pass through, there are many guide books available that include some background information on the various Camino trails. Cicerone Press publishes guides for walkers on the Camino Frances, Via de la Plata and Le Puy routes as well as a Le Puy to Santiago guide for cyclists. The Confraternity of St James in the UK has an excellent online bookshop selling guides to walking/cycling/horse riding most of the routes in France and Spain. They also have a few to download for a donation. Click on Bookshop John Brierley He publishes guides for the Camino Frances, Santiago to Finisterre and the Camino Português routes. Pili Pala Press Guides for the Camino Frances and the Via de la Plata Rother Camino de Santiago: Way of St James from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela 41 stages which include the Aragonés Route from the Somport Pass to Puente la Reina. Miam Miam Dodo Comprehensive and useful guides with lists (in French only) of accommodation and eating places within 5 km of the Voie du Puy, Arles and Camino Frances routes. The schematic presentation and glossary make it straightforward to use even for the non-french speaker. Maps Although maps are not necessary on most Camino routes, a few publishers sell sets of maps for the more popular routes. Many guide books include route and profile maps. FFRP Maps for French routes FFRP, representing walking clubs, publishes more than 150 guide books (topoguides des sentiers de grande randonnée) Camino Downunder 30 x 3D landscape maps of the Camino Frances with comprehensive information about accommodation, places to eat, etc. on the reverse side. John Brierley Maps for the Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port to Finisterre. Trilingual English, Spanish, French. Pili Pala Press Maps for the Camino Frances. Association de Amigos del Camino You can buy a map from the Amigos Michelin Map for the Camino de Santiago. Available at most book shops or online at Amazon. Ediciones Way They publish complete maps of the Camino El Camino Jacobeo en tu Bolsillo (The Way of St James in your Pocket). They fold into a 9 cm x 9 cm square and are packed with information: distances, altitudes, albergues (with their telephone numbers) and even bicycle shops. One covers the Camino from St Jean to Burgos, and Somport to Burgos; another from Burgos to O Cebreiro and another from O Cebreiro to Santiago. ISBN printed in Spanish, French, English and German. Order from the publisher: Ediciones Way, S. L.c/ San Anselmo No.1, 2818 Madrid, Spain. TIP: Most tourist offices issue maps for the section of Camino that passes through their region. You can chart a map for any hike at Films and DVDs There are almost as many new films and DVDs on the Camino as there are books and every year documentary film-makers walk the Camino, filming their journey. The most recent full feature film is The Way made by Martin Sheen and his son Emilio Estevez. DVD release date February Documentaries Carmelo Gomez presents a group of documentaries that showcases the main roads to Santiago de Compostela. Every road has two pilgrim characters that make the journey on foot. Through them we learn the latest news from the road. Carmelo Gomez deals with history and legends and tells us what they were, how they were formed and what happened to these roads. Running time: 480 minutes (120 minutes per DVD). Languages: English Audio: Dolby Digital 2.0 Released: DVD1: Presentation of Our Roads to Santiago: Roads Levante I & II DVD 2: Camino de Madrid: Roads Jacobean Ebro I & II: Road North of I DVD 3: Camino del Norte II: Camino English and Sea Routes: Via de la Plata I & II DVD 4: French Way 1, II and III: Extension to Finisterre and Jacobean Muxia. Extra Content: Animated Menus, Scene Selection, Webs, ACOG, Associations.

13 Welcome Bienvenido A documentary DVD made by José Alvarez about the traditions of hospitality on the Way of St James, including interviews with hospitaleros in Burgos, San Bol, Rabanal del Camino, Manjarin, Villafranca del Bierzo, Monte del Gozo. 110 mins, English subtitles, some commentary in English. Suitable for World Zone 2. El Camino de Santiago no un Camino de Rosas (The Camino is Not a Bed of Roses) by José Alvarez (2006). Spanish with English subtitles, and interactive menus. Features film of the Camino in Spain and interviews with pilgrims, priests and hospitaleros about their experiences on the Camino. Xunta DVDs La Meta del Camino El Camino Hacia la Meta Interactive DVD Via de la Plata DVDs Three DVDs: Fourteen 45-minute episodes for a total duration of 640 minutes. Each episode covers a specific 80 to 100 km segment and it completes the entire km of the Via, narrating the history and circumstances of its creation over the last years and visiting its most important and emblematic monuments and places. The full title of the DVDs is Ruta Via de La Plata. The Way In different languages. On discovering that his estranged son died crossing the Pyrenees on the Camino to Santiago, a father decides to complete the pilgrimage, carrying his son s ashes in his pack. On the way to Santiago he befriends a number of misfits. Featuring Martin Sheen and filmed by his son Emilio Estevez. Pilgrim stories The Surgeon and the Saint On Foot to Santiago de Compostela Uncertain what to do after college, and needing a physical and emotional challenge to sort his head out, Roman Weishaupt sets off from his idyllic Swiss village to follow the pilgrim trail. The documentary follows his 80-day, mile walking journey from the Alps to the Pyrenees and beyond. tinyurl.com/3d2c59m Within the Way Without A beautifully filmed story by Larry Boulting (2004) about three pilgrims Rob Jorritsma, a winter pilgrim, Madoka Mayuzumi, a haiku poet and a spring pilgrim, and Milena Salgado, a summer pilgrim. Introduction by Sir Richard Attenborough. 150 mins. Each DVD is numbered and signed by Larry Boulting. Las Peregrinas Sue Kenney, a veteran pilgrim, author and inspirational speaker returns to Spain to shepherd a group of first-time women pilgrims (in Spanish known as Las Peregrinas) on their own individual journeys of self-discovery. The Naked Pilgrim Brian Sewell s CTV series of programmes about the Road to Santiago from England, through France and Spain to the end of the world. Oh Ye of Little Faith Paul Tobey s interviews with modern-day pilgrims, a tour of a refugio, some great stories, beautiful towns, adventurous festivals, interesting people and breath-taking scenery from the road itself. St Jacques... la Mecque A French film with English sub-titles. Estranged siblings reunite to do the St James Way pilgrimage from France to Santiago de Compostela in order to collect an inheritance. Tourism offices France Spain You ll find contact details for the Spanish office in your country in Appendix 2. A professional documentary film-maker, who has produced award-winning documentaries for PBS and the Discovery Channel, produced an hour-long film about his experience on the Camino with his father. The film is also about the relationship between fathers and their grown sons, and about ambition, religion and the meaning of life. A pilgrim s story Kay New Zealand My impetus to walk the Camino seemed to come from out of the blue, one day I had never heard of the Camino it was not well known here in NZ and a few days later I knew that I was going

14 to walk it. I had a few hurdles to overcome... I was overweight, unfit, no walking experience, had never been to Europe or even travelled by myself. And of course my family and friends thought I was completely mad. Several months before leaving, one fine Sunday afternoon, I packed up a backpack with 8 kilos as an experiment, and walked a few kilometres to a nearby park, which had a new Renaissance garden that was still under construction. It was a depressing experience, as I realised that my knees and ankles were straining after such a short distance. Several months before leaving, one fine Sunday afternoon, I packed up a backpack with 8 kilos as an experiment, and walked a few kilometres to a nearby park, which had a new Renaissance garden that was still under construction. It was a depressing experience, as I realised that my knees and ankles were straining after such a short distance. The day was fine and sunny with lots of small groups of people wandering around admiring the various gardens and I felt very awkward as an overweight, middle-aged woman dressed in tramping clothes and carrying my pack. I was mortified to bump into friends and stood rooted to the spot as we chatted for a few minutes. As they moved off I wondered if everyone was right and I was mad. As I looked down at my feet in embarrassment, I realised that I was standing on a tile that must have very recently been laid as I had never seen it before. It was a large, raised picture of a scallop shell. It was one of a number of strange Camino coincidences and just what I needed at the time. It gave me the confidence to go on to my first Camino eight months later. Since then I and my family (my parents, husband and children) have completed a total of six separate Caminos. Chapter 2 Choosing the right time Many people ask the question: When is the best time to walk a Camino? The next question is invariably: What will the weather be like in March, or June, or September? There are websites with some general stats for daily temperatures, average rainfall and so on for most of France and Spain, but the weather can be exceedingly unpredictable, making it difficult to advise anyone about what the weather will be like at any given time of the year. In this chapter When is the right time? Weather The main routes in Spain Route conditions Equipment Precautions When is the right time? The general consensus, weather wise, is that the best months to walk the routes in Europe are May/June and September/October. Why not in early spring or fall? Because there can be snow as late as April, and early snow in November/ December in the high places. Spring is usually wetter so you might have to contend with snow and rain, sleet and mud. July and August are generally hot months and, with August being the Spanish holiday month, the trails and pilgrim accommodation in Spain can become overcrowded. If you decide to go in winter it could be a solitary walk; some of the pilgrim albergues, café-bars, hotels and inns may not be open. Snow covers the yellow arrows and other markers which could make it difficult to follow the route. However, pilgrims who have walked in winter enthuse about the lack of crowds, the solitude and the beautiful, winter landscapes. amawalker.blogspot.com/2009/10/walking-in-winter.html

15 February Dailytemp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago Snow in O Cebreiro March 2008 Photo with permission - Juan Carlos Weather The rain in Spain falls mainly on the... Camino del Norte! When trekking a Camino you will be travelling for a number of days over vastly varying terrain. The weather can be a huge factor when deciding your departure date and this section attempts to provide you with the information you will need to make an informed decision, not just on when to go or which route to take, but also considerations and precautions to ensure a safe passage despite what mother nature throws at you. We concentrate mainly on three routes that pass through different parts of Spain in order to get an idea of how different parts of the country are affected by varying weather conditions. At the end there is also a link for weather averages from across France over the last 30 years and a link to yearly weather information in Italy if you are thinking of walking the Via Francigena. Weather Tables The weather tables on the following pages detail 30-year average weather figures on the most popular Camino route, the Camino Frances. January Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rain-fall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago March Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago April Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago May Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago

16 June Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago August Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago September Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Days with rain Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago October Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago November Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago December Daily temp Av max temp Av min temp Rainfall Pamplona Logroño Burgos León Ponferrada Santiago Days with rain Days with rain Days with rain

17 A graphic map, with all the Spanish Camino route overviews and specific monthly figures, can be found at this link: maps.peterrobins.co.uk/clima/routes.html Thirty-year averages for routes in France TIP: The following link provides you with yearly weather trends and information for Italy and the Via Francigena from the Gr St Bernard Pass on the northern border between Switzerland and Italy to Rome. The main routes in Spain Camino Frances (French Way) passing over the Pyrenees Mountains from St Jean Pied de Port in France (or from Roncesvalles in Spain), over the plains of the Meseta on to the hills of Galicia and finally Santiago. The Camino del Norte (Northern Way) following the rugged coastline in Northern Spain from Irun to Santiago. Spain. Although 1st March is regarded as the start of spring on the coast and in the coastal mountain valleys, it comes a few weeks later on the colder central plain and in the high mountain areas sometimes as late as May in the snowy villages of the Pyrenees. Undoubtedly June, July, August and September are the warmest months to walk in, so packing light is easy. However, you will still need a light fleece layer and something waterproof and windproof. A Pac-A-Mac type jacket is ideal. Silk sleep liners or summer sleeping bags will suffice. October through to May can be cold, windy and wet so layers and waterproofs (jacket and trousers) are essential. Also, waterproof Velcro storage bags will keep passports, valuables and technology dry even in the wettest thunderstorms. Route conditions TIP: In winter extra items such as gaiters, woolly hats, gloves, scarves and thermals are items you must consider. A sleeping bag that can keep you comfortable in 0 C is worth investing in (see Chapter 6). Via de la Plata (Silver Way) beginning in Seville in Southern Spain it meanders through the centre of the country, heading north to join the Camino Frances in Galicia. Considerations Providing all these facts and figures may seem a little unnecessary as the vast majority of pilgrims go during the late spring and summer months. However, every year increasing numbers of people seeking a quieter, more reflective Camino are setting off earlier in the season and pilgrims are now walking throughout the year. For this reason it is important to be aware of the conditions you could face in order to pack correctly and be sufficiently prepared (see Chapter 7 for advice on clothing). Spring is a wonderful time to walk a Camino. Everything is green, the wildflowers are spectacular and, in northern Spain, the large white and black European storks are back on their huge nests on top of every church tower and on their huge nests on top of every church tower and steeple. But, spring doesn t come early to the north of Spain. Although 1st March is regarded as the start of spring on the coast and in the coastal mountain valleys, it comes a few weeks later on the colder central plain and in the high mountain areas sometimes as late as May in the snowy villages of the Pyrenees. Undoubtedly June, July, August and September are the warmest months to walk in, so packing light is easy. However, you will still need a light fleece layer and something waterproof and windproof. A Pac-A-Mac type jacket is ideal. Silk sleep liners or summer sleeping bags will Camino Frances In the first third of the Camino Frances you ascend the Pyrenees mountain range and the highest point you reach is the Col Lepoeder at m. As with any mountain range, the weather can roll in unexpectedly at any time. Even the summer months are not safe from the wind, rain an sometimes snow at this altitude. In the middle of the route, after the city of Burgos, you enter the Meseta, the high plains of the Camino where shade is scarce and temperatures can drop or rocket. Cold, howling winds add to the wind chill factor but in summer the sun s power is relentless and temperature reach 40 Cs which can present different problems for the pilgrim, such as heat stroke and sun burn. The highest point on the entire Camino Frances is beyond the Cruz de Ferro in the Irago Mountains, reaching m, which can be adversely affected by the elements, especially in the winter months.

18 The final third of the Camino Frances takes you into Galicia s green, rolling hills where you climb to O Cebreiro at m before slowly descending to Santiago. Galicia s weather is generally cooler and wet. The Camino Frances has a mixture of terrain, mountains, plains and hills so it is best to pack accordingly with plenty of layers in the winter months and at least something light and waterproof to keep the elements out in the summer. When it rains on this route you have to be wary of the mud. The nature of the stages of this Camino and the condition of the paths results in rutted terrain underfoot which often becomes wet, muddy and slippery. Being on the coast means you are subjected to strong, cold winds any time of the year. Camino del Norte This route runs along the north coast of Spain, often ascending from sea level in the morning and descending again in the afternoon, meaning it is a lot more physically challenging than the other Camino routes. For this route rain and wind are your primary concerns although it can actually be milder than the French route despite its coastal location. A waterproof layer of jacket and trousers is advisable and good strong hiking boots are essential to deal with the ruggedness of the Camino del Norte. Via de la Plata The Via de la Plata is the longest route in Spain at about km and virtually crosses the country from south to north. Starting at almost sea level in Seville, the terrain undulates for the majority of the route until you enter the provinces of Zamora and Galicia where your ascents and descents become far steeper. The temperature is the most important factor on this route, especially in the summer months. It is inadvisable to walk the Via de la Plata in July and August as daily temperatures can top a sweltering and frankly dangerous 45 C. It is quite common for the daily temperatures to sit around 40 C and coupled with the hot, dry terral winds that blow through the countryside (and very little rain) can make it a virtual desert. The rain does fall though and at any time you could experience not only sun but fog, rain, cold and mist and either side of the summer months the chances of these sorts of weather conditions increase. TIP: Good months to walk weatherwise are the end of April through to June and September to October when the heat of the summer has passed. Equipment The fact that you will experience a mixture of conditions means you will have to pack accordingly. Sun hats, moisture wicking top layers and perhaps ventilated hiking footwear for the summer months, along with a small rain jacket for those summer downpours. During the autumn, winter and spring you will need to think about warmer layers and waterproof outerwear (see Chapter 7 for more information on clothing). Footwear Waterproof footwear for autumn, spring and winter. Walking boots will be hardier in any snow you may encounter. Light, breathable hiking shoes are ideal for a summer Camino. Backpack A winter Camino could mean you will need a slightly larger backpack but always think weight. For all seasons, backpacks with a built in rain cover are very useful. Gaiters and poles These can be useful, especially in winter and spring as you could encounter snow. Gaiters will prevent snow and mud entering your boots and poles can be a real help if you lose your footing in deep snow by crossing them on top of the snow in front of you, allowing you to spread your weight better.

19 Precautions Route markings On all Camino routes you could find snow in the autumn, winter and spring. Snow can often fall heavily enough to cover the yellow arrows, scallop shells and painted signs so caution, sharp eyes and a good sense of direction is important. Locals know best It does not matter who you are, how experienced or how well equipped you are, the local people have lived in their land longer than you have. They are likely to know the weather and route better than anyone and, if a forecast is looking bad, why not ask someone what they think. Most hospitaleros will also be able to advise you on conditions a few days ahead. 112 is the Europe-wide emergency number. It works even if you have no money in a pre-paid mobile phone or even if your supplier has no network. It works 24/7 365 days and the operators speak many languages. The number for the Guardia Civil in Spain is 062. Mountains The weather can turn bad in seconds at high altitude and being unprepared can shrink your margin for error. For example, a turned ankle in a freak snow storm could be fatal. In the winter months a small, lightweight space blanket could mean that you survive being stuck in bad weather. Storms These can roll in out of nowhere any time of the year. Having a wind and waterproof layer is important and during thunderstorms the best place to be is sitting on your pack, off the ground, in an open space. It is probably best to place any walking poles a few metres away from you too! (Average yearly figures from the past 30 years) The wettest route: Camino del Norte with an average of 131 days of rain. The driest route: Via de la Plata with an average of 77 days of rain. The coldest route: Camino Frances at 12 C. The warmest route: Via de la Plata at 15 C. The snowiest route: Camino Frances with 59 days (Via de la Plata with 17 days; Camino del Norte with 14 days). The sunniest route: Via de la Plata with hours (Camino Frances with and the Camino del Norte with just 1 741). A pilgrim s story Raymond Francis I left Rabanal late, at 9:30 and was wondering why I was the only one to take off from the albergue. Usually, everybody at that hour is miles away but the majority was still having breakfast or loitering around. This morning very few ventured out early. It was raining heavily and I found my way out of the village with difficulty. The plan was to walk to El-Acebo, 17 km from Rabanal. It was expected to be my longest stage during this year s walk. The itinerary will pass by Foncebadon and Manjarin situated respectively at 6 and 10 km from Rabanal. The road descends afterwards to El-Acebo at an altitude of m on the other side of the mountain. The trek was risky, even impossible. It was muddy with large puddles hiding terrain disparities and rocks. I took the car road which was safer under the circumstances. But I was alone. Normally peregrinos outrun me constantly and no cars were passing in either direction. When I started feeling some apprehension, the rain and wind suddenly stopped, replaced by a deep silence It started snowing. I knew then why most of the peregrinos stayed in the albergue. They had watched the weather forecast on TV the night before. This unexpected but pleasant surprise made me happy and the view was captivating, féerique. I felt lighter and started singing and jumping. The snow continued piling up on the road while covering the small bushes and tree branches of the countryside. An hour later, the road and surroundings were entirely white. I felt that all the space that my eyes could lay on, belonged to me. Further up, I saw the marks of two pair of boots on the snow. I knew later that they belonged to a Korean couple who were ahead of me; the only two persons who ventured out early morning. From the road, the Camino looked like a white snake winding and bending across the valleys and nearby hills. The surroundings were virgin white. Everybody seemed to have expected the snow fall, but me. It was noon and yet, no sign of Foncebadon. I guessed the village shouldn t be far. While anxiety was taking over the excitement, an old VW van with motifs, signs and logos of the psychedelic era painted all over the van body suddenly emerged from a nearby turn. Probably its occupants were leaving the heights avoiding isolation should the road be cut off. I waved to stop the van anticipating an eventual lift back to Rabanal if Foncebadon was still far, or the albergue closed. A German couple in their early thirties with hippy hair, cloth and ornaments, as if brought back to life from the late sixties, bid me Congratulations you made it! The village is 200 m away, right after the next turn! I thought that I did not hear well and that they probably mentioned 2 km. Nevertheless, I was calmed down by the news and took a couple of quick snapshots while being careful not to get the camera wet. I believe that, together with the Korean couple, I was among the very few in the region who was walking in the open watching this early snow fall. I reached Foncebadon which is mostly, if not entirely in ruin. The only house that I saw through the mist still standing was the newly built albergue. I was the first to get there. It seems that the Korean couple did not stop and continued their way to the Iron Cross and Manjarin down to El-Acebo. It was risky and tiring as the snow continued falling and vision was next to nil. They had guts! The albergue is a three-storey lodging. The ground floor houses the kitchen, sitting area, a large dining table and the fireplace. The dormitory was on the first floor and the third was reserved for the hospitalera, her assistant and her six-month-old baby. Unlike other albergues, the kitchen was inside the building, on the ground floor and wide open, overlooking the sitting area. It neither had a cooker hood or any means of ventilation. The cooking smell penetrated our clothes, body, hair, bed sheets, even our belongings kept in the backpacks I had to use the washing machine and dryer that were made available for the peregrinos at 3 each. The dryer was set at the warmest programme and the clothes shrank significantly. Afterwards, I wrapped them up in several plastic bags before putting them again in the backpack. Later on, other peregrinos started arriving, those who finally decided to leave Rabanal. But Foncebadon was the maximum they could go. We were 28 in total: Canadians, Swiss, Belgians, British and Spaniards and a Lebanese who also has French nationality and was living in France. We were not introduced, but I knew it through the chats I overheard. A lively gathering took place around the fireplace and went on till late at night. The food and wine was good.

20 Around 11h00, an Argentinean guitarist started picking on the strings a soft and quiet bossa tune to avoid disturbing those who went to sleep. We finally all went to bed at 1 am. In the dorm another kind of wild music was raging... I took my cover, went back to the hall and slept on the sofa by the fireplace. There also I could not sleep as the storm outside was still raging fiercely. If it persisted, we would have been confined in the albergue till the snow plough opened the road. Luckily soon after, the storm calmed down. Chapter 3 Les Chemins and los Caminos People talk about walking The Camino usually referring to the Camino Frances in Spain (the one that everyone knows about) but in fact there are dozens of different routes to choose from in France, Spain and other European countries. In the Middle Ages pilgrims started walking to Santiago from their front doors. The result is evidence of hundreds of Jacobean routes in many countries leading to Santiago de Compostela. Some people still walk from England or Italy, Holland, Belgium or Switzerland (see Appendix 18 for a timeline on the history of the Santiago pilgrimage). In this chapter Which route Routes in France Routes in Spain Routes in other countries Which route The route you choose will depend on how much time you have. Some routes are thousands of kilometres long whilst others are only a few days walking. The pilgrim can choose to start from any place along these routes. France and Spain have good rail and bus services and it is reasonably easy to reach most towns along the different Camino routes.

21 Routes in France A 12th century guide, the Liber Sancti Jacobi (The Book of St James), thought to have been written by a French priest in 1137, describes the four main Jacobean routes in France that lead to Spain. Via Turonensis from Paris (through Tours) Via Lemovicensis from Vézelay (crossing the Limousin River) Via Podiensis from Le Puy-en-Velay Via Tolosana from Arles (through Toulouse) Via Podiensis: Le Puy-en-Velay ± km to Santiago The Le Puy route is the most popular of the four French routes with the best infrastructure and plentiful accommodation. It goes via Conques, Figeac, Cahors and Moissac before reaching St Jean-Pied de-port. As this route traverses many rivers and forested valleys, it has many ascents and descents. Pilgrims wishing to walk from Switzerland or Germany can walk the GR 65 from Geneva to Le Puy (called the Via Gebenensis) and continue south on this route to Spain. com/composte/composte.htm Via Tolosana: Arles ± km to Santiago From Arles (Provence) the route passes through Montpellier and Toulouse then southward, crossing the Pyrenees into Spain at the Col du Somport. This is a varied and sometimes arduous route with steep hills in the Haut Languedoc and forested valleys of the Pyrenees. The climb to the Col du Somport takes you from 630 m at Borce to m with stunning scenery making it all worthwhile! chemindarles.free.fr/liens_en.php The first three routes head south and meet north of the pilgrimage town of St Jean Pied de Port at a small place called Gibraltar at the foot of the French Pyrenees, whilst the fourth route, the Via Tolosana, crosses the Pyrenees at the Somport Pass further east and joins the main Spanish route, the Camino Frances, at Puente la Reina in Spain. Other French routes There are many other routes in France that criss-cross the country, joining up with the main arterial routes. If you want to start from Switzerland you could use the Via Gebenensis from Geneva, or you could walk on the west coast to the north of Spain on the Voie Littorale. The Chemin de Tours or Via Tutonensis: : ± km to Santiago This is the path that pilgrims from Northern Europe and France took on their way through Tours, itself a major place of pilgrimage with the shrine of the 4th century St Martin. The route is relatively flat as it passes through the Loire valley, the Touraine, Poitou, Angoumois, Saintonge, Bordelais and the Landes where it meets with the other two routes at Ostabat. Much of the original route has become tarmac highway. Although various associations are working at creating safe paths and guides for pilgrims, it is still not a popular route due to the amount of road walking involved and way-marking is scarce in sections. Pilgrim accommodation is sparse until you reach the south. pagesperso-orange.fr/viaturonensis Via Lemovicensis : Vézelay ± km to Santiago Its name is derived from Limoges and the Limousin although it starts in Vézelay. The route divides when leaving Vézelay, one path going to Bourges and the other to Nevers. After converging at Gargilesse the route passes through Limoges and Mont de Marsan to Ostabat where three of the French routes meet, a short distance north of St Jean Pied de Port. The landscape consists mainly of agricultural farms and forests. The Via Gebenensis : 350 km from Geneva This is not a historic route and has been described as a designer route which links the GR 65 from Geneva with the Via Podiensis at Le Puy. Chemin du Piemont Pyrénéen: 525 km from Narbonne-Plage This route is used by pilgrims from the Mediterranean regions, through the Pyrenees via the valleys of the Aure, Ossau and Aspe to provide links to the Col du Somport and St Jean Pied de Port. This is a little known route and can be lonely. It is sparsely marked and does not have much in the way of pilgrim accommodation. vppyr.free.fr Voie Littorale: ± 375 km from Pointe de Grave Starting at the mouth of the Garonne to the Spanish border at Irún, this route is also known as the Voie de Soulac or the Voie des Anglais on account of the large number of English pilgrims who came by ship, landing in the estuary and finding their way down the west coast to Spain. The path starts at Pointe de Grave in the Medoc and runs south, passing through the towns of Soulac, to Bayonne, Saint Jean de Luz and Hendaye. Voie de la Nive From Bayonne one can walk to St Jean Pied de Port or get local transport. One can also walk the Voie du Baztan from Bayonne to Trinidad de Arre and Pamplona. pagesperso-orange.fr/vtt.compostelle/littoral.htm

22 Note: The Franconian-Swabian Way of St James (Fränkisch-Schwäbischer Jakobsweg) links Würzburg in Germany with the Caminos in Switzerland, France and Spain. The route is marked with both shells and arrows. Routes in Spain As you can see on the map below there is a network of short, medium and long routes crisscrossing Spain like tributaries from north, south, east and west into the main arterial route in the north, the Camino Frances, that transports all pilgrims to the cathedral city of St James in Compostela. The Camino Frances crosses three mountain ranges, innumerable rivers and bridges and some 350 villages, towns and cities on the way to Santiago de Compostela in north-west Spain. Large numbers of pilgrims have travelled this route to the tomb of St James. It has had a major influence on European history, art and architecture since it was the protection of pilgrims which inspired European rulers to support the small northern Spanish kingdoms in their efforts to push back the Muslim invaders of Spain. Bridges, roads, monasteries and cathedrals were built to support the pilgrims. The Camino Frances can be divided into three main sections: the rolling hills and vineyards of the Basque country, the hot, flat, empty central section of the Meseta and the green hills of Galicia. The route includes the major cities of Pamplona, Burgos and León, the large towns of Logroño, Astorga and Ponferrada, and many interesting smaller places along the way. This has always been by far the most popular and well known of all the Camino routes. In 1987 the ± 750 km Camino de Santiago was chosen as the first European Cultural Itinerary by the Council of Europe and was named a World Heritage Site in The extraordinary growth in the popularity of the Caminos in the last 20 years has provided the impetus for the rediscovery of old traditional footpaths, evidence of historical pilgrimage routes and the reanimation of these routes throughout Spain. Members of local associations and confraternities have become activists in defence of the historic ways. In some cases new modern routes have been established with little evidence of any Santiago connection. Instead of grouping these routes in alphabetical order, which would have you jumping from one side of Spain to the other, we decided to list them in geographic order so that you can see at a glance all the routes in the north, or the south, or those coming from the east or west. The main route in Spain Camino Frances: ± 749 km (or 775 km from St Jean-Pied de-port) This is the major Camino route in Spain and stretches 750 km from Roncesvalles to Santiago. Many modern guide books for the Camino Frances list the first stage at the small French town of St Jean Pied de Portat the base of the Pyrenees which is about 8 km from the Spanish border and 27 km from Roncesvalles in Spain. Pilgrims can follow two routes from St Jean-Pied de-port, a road route and a cross-country route. Both are long, hard climbs for a first day but no real mountain climbing is involved. Many other guide books start from the monastery complex in Roncesvalles which has been providing shelter to pilgrims for over years. There are plenty of albergues (simple, mixed hostels with basic facilities) costing a few euros a night and operated on a first come, first served basis where you can meet other pilgrims, as well as a range of more expensive accommodation. The route takes 4 5 weeks to walk and can be cycled in 2 3 weeks. There are two routes that break away from the Camino Frances to meet up with other routes: these are the Camino del Salvador (the Saviour) which goes north from León to Oviedo, and the Camino de Invierno (the Winter Route) which goes south from Ponferrada and joins the Via de la Plata. Camino del Salvador: 120 km from León to Oviedo Oviedo is home to the second most important Holy relic in Christendom the Sudarium thought to be the cloth that covered the face of Christ when he was dying on the cross. It was brought to Spain via North Africa and Toledo in the 6th and 7th century where it is housed in the Camara Santa the Holy Chamber in the Oviedo Cathedral. To reach Oviedo from the Camino Frances, medieval pilgrims turned north at León and travelled to Oviedo. The route turns northward along the river Bernesga via Carbajal and crosses the mountains to the stunning Puerto de Pajares. From there the path goes down to Pola de Lena, Mieres del Camino and Olloniego and after crossing the Rio Nalón reaches Oviedo. From Oviedo the Primitivo route was the shortest viable route to regain the Camino Frances to Santiago.

23 Camino de Invierno A recently restored (2010) 275 km variant from Ponferrada to Montefaro used by medieval pilgrims during winter months. Avoiding the heights of O Cebreiro, pilgrims used the much lower Sil valley via Lemos and Chantada to join the Sanabres-Mozarabe Via de la Plata route at Laxe about 4 km out of Lalín where they continued to Santiago. Routes in the north From the north: Ruta del Baztan: ± 100 km Bayonne to Trinidad de Arre and Pamplona It is possible to walk from Bayonne to the Camino Frances in five to six days, joining the route at Trinidad de Arre about 4.5 km from Pamplona. Although this is considered an ancient route, used by the Romans on the Camino Real, it is not a frequently used route and does not have much in the way of pilgrim accommodation until it reaches Trinidad de Arre. Via de Bayona: 290 km from Bayonne to Burgos The route starts in Bayonne and hugs the coast, passing through Hendaye, Irún and Hernani before turning south-west towards Vitoria. From there it continues in a south-westerly direction until it reaches the Camino Frances at Burgos. The main arterial route in the north is the Camino del Norte (also known as the Coastal or Northern Route), historically used by pilgrims coming by sea and during times when there was a danger from marauding Muslims from the south. Camino del Norte: ± 765 km from Hendaye to Santiago The Camino del Norte is one of the longer pilgrim routes to Santiago. It runs for almost 800 km from the French border at Irún, through San Sebastian, Bilbao and Santander to join the Camino Frances at Arzua, about 40 km from Santiago. Rich in culture, landscapes and languages, the path takes you through the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia along the coast. The scenery on this route is fantastic with fine coastal views. The terrain is hilly for much of the route, and you are often sent inland to cross a bridge over one of the numerous rivers. It is much less crowded than the Camino Frances and because of this, pilgrim accommodation is sparse in places. There is a wealth of ancient monuments, particularly churches and monasteries, and the larger cities have excellent facilities. The weather on this route is highly variable, and you need to be prepared for a few wet and windy days. Markina Vizaya: 85 km from Irún to Markina Vizcaya A short variation on the Camino del Norte between Irún and Markina Vizaya. Short routes from the north to the south Two shorter routes from the north feed into Irún at the start of the Camino del Norte and another three detour away from it to the south. The routes from the north are the Ruta del Baztan and the Via de Bayona. Those going south are the Camino Vasco del Interior, the Camino Primitivo and the Ruta Vadiniense Picos de Europa. Camino Vasco del Interior: 210 km from Irún to Santo Domingo de la Calzada The Camino del Norte which starts in Irún splits into two one path continuing along the coast and the other, the Vasco del Interior, turns south to Santo Domingo de la Calzada on the Camino Frances. This Basque route was the gateway to the interior of the country from Irún in Roman times. Camino Primitivo: 369 km from Oviedo to Santiago via Melide The Camino Primitivo, also known as the Original or Interior route, runs 320 km from Valleviciosa on the Camino del Norte, passing through Oviedo and Lugo before joining the Camino Frances at Melide. The legend of Santiago started in Oviedo in the first half of the 9th century when Bishop Teodomiro of Iria Flavia rushed to the court in Oviedo to inform Alfonso II of the great news that a hermit named Pelayo had miraculously discovered a tomb containing the remains of St James in the vicinity of the Church of San Fiz de Solovio. Alfonso accepted this news and he and scholars from his court journeyed to the grave in ± 829 to investigate, thus laying down the first Camino path to the tomb of St James in Compostela. The route is fairly arduous as you cross the Cantabria mountain ranges. If you are lucky enough to get good weather, you will be amply rewarded by the views. You need to be prepared, even in summer, for heavy rain and cold. Oviedo has many interesting churches, monasteries and museums and it is well worth spending a rest day there. The route goes through Lugo which has a cathedral, Roman walls completely encircling the old city that you can walk round and interesting small museums. Ruta Vadiniense Picos de Europa: 134 km from Potes to Mansilla de las Mulas the Vadiniense joins the Frances at Mansilla de las Mulas, or Puente Villarente (if you are truly hardcore).

24 There is an oral tradition and archaeological evidence for this route which passes through the spectacular landscape of the Picos de Europa joining two of the three holy cities in Spain the Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liebana (which houses a piece of the true cross) and Santiago de Compostela. The route starts at Potes on the Cantabria coast and flows south where it joins the Camino Frances at the city of León. Camino Inglés: 108 km from Ferrol to Santiago (or 75 km from A Coruña) This was the route used by pilgrims arriving by sea from northern Europe. There are two branches one that starts in the port town of A Coruña (which is too short to qualify the pilgrim for the Compostela certificate) and the other from the port of El Ferrol which is 108 km long. The route wends its way along the seafront and around the deep rias, passing through many small villages, subsistence farms and eucalyptus forests. There are a number of pilgrim shelters on the route and more planned for the future. This is a good alternative to the busy Camino Frances with bus and rail links from Santiago and Lugo. Spain, the Summus Portus was traversed by Romans, Vandals, Visigoths, Arabs and merchants. It is 160 km from Somport through Jaca to Puente la Reina where it joins the Camino Frances and is well supplied with pilgrim shelters and small hotels. (The Via Tolosana from Arles in France joins the Aragones route at the Somport Pass.) Camino del Ebro: 378 km from Tortosa to Logroño Routes from the east There are dozens of paths leading to Spain from other countries, many of which crossed at the various Pyrenean mountain passes between France and Spain. This was the route used by pilgrims from the Mediterranean (150 km south of Barcelona) on their way to Santiago. It is the old Roman road that linked Tarraco to Astorga, and passed the Roman cities of Gracurris-Alfaro, Calagurris-Calahorra and Vareia-Varea, joining the Camino Frances at Logroño in La Rioja. The route is clearly signposted and is easy to follow. Camino Catalán: 470km from Montserrat to Logroño The path starts at the Monastery of Montserrat, passes through Igualada, Cervera, Tàrrega, Lleida and Zaragoza on its way to Logroño on the Camino Frances. It is 470 km from Montserrat to Logroño and a further 612 km to Santiago from there. Camino de Andorra: 80 km from Abalate to Fuentes de Ebro The town of Andorra is located in the mountain region of Aragon (north-eastern Spain). This route connects Andorra and Abalate through Belchite, Mediana de Aragón, El Burgo de Ebro and reaches the road linking Zaragoza Ebro. Camino Aragones: 160 km from the Somport Pass to Puente la Reina This is one of the most ruggedly beautiful Camino routes in Spain. From Pyrenean grandeur at the m Col du Somport the path drops sharply to 400m in 7.5 km, into an ancient, crumpled valley formed by a shallow sea that covered Aragon some 100 million years ago. In places, the lunar landscape is spectacular with ingrained fossils of marine micro-organisms in the grey rocks. Long before Charlemagne led his third expedition across the Pyrenees in the 8th century to become Master of Cami de Sant Jaume: Variante de Huesca y San Juan de la Peña: 238 km This is a quiet, modern route from Barcelona or Montserrat that goes north-east to Huesca and Tárrega continuing to the Aragones route at Sta Cilia de Jaca. The pilgrim has an opportunity to climb the steep path to the spectacular mountain monastery of San Juan de la Pena, a stronghold of the ancient Kingdom of Aragon and home of the Holy Grail

25 Camino del Maestrazgo-Bajo Aragón: 497 km from Valencia to Escatrón Starting in Valencia, this route turns north to Castellón via Morella, Monroyo and Alcañiz and joines the Ebro Route at Escatrón. Ruta de la Lana: 380 km from Alicante to Burgos The Ruta de la Lana Wool Route starts from the Basilica de Santa Maria in Alicante and heads northwest through Almansa where it crosses the Camino del Levante. From there it continues to Santo Domingo de Silos and Burgos on the Camino Frances. A new variant that will start at Valencia and join the Lana at Almansa is in the planning stages. Viejo Camino de Santiago An ancient route, used by pilgrims between the 10th and 12th century, starting at Irun: To Bilbao, then south to Espinosa de los Monteros where it spilts to Reinosa or to Trespaderne and on to the Camino Norte at Aguila de Campoo Routes from the south-east The Caminos del Levante and the Ruta de la Lana are the two longest routes from the southeast. Starting on the Mediterranean coast at Alicante, they split at Almansa with the right branch continuing almost directly north to Burgos on the Camino Frances and the other branch going north-west towards Zamora where it joins the Via de la Plata from Seville. Camino from Alicante: 735 km from Alicante to Burgos This route starts in Alicante on the Mediterranean coast, pushes inland in a northerly direction and joins the Ruta de la Lana (Wool Road) at Monteagudo de las Salinas. Camino del Sureste: 750 km from Alicante to Benavente This path also starts in Alicante and follows a similar route to the Camino del Levante which it joins at Albacete. From Medina del Campo it heads north-west to the Via de la Plata at Benavente. Camino Manchego: 127 km from Ciudad Real to Toledo Starting in the middle of vast plain of Castilla La Mancha at Ciudad Real (200 km south of Madrid) the route follows five stages north to Toledo where one can continue on the Camino del Sureste from Alicante. Caminomanchego.es Camino del Levante: 900 km from Valencia to Zamora (1 300 km to Santiago) The Camino del Levante runs westward from Valencia on the km and 48 stages, crossing the Lana at Almansa and passing through Toledo, Avila and Zamora where it connects with the main Via de la Plata (the Silver Route). Routes from the South The 1000 km Via de la Plata from Seville is the main arterial route from the south passing through Mérida, Cáceres and Salamanca to Zamora. At Zamora it splits into two routes one branching off to Astorga and the Camino Frances (260 km from Santiago) and the other turning west on the Camino Sanbrés which goes through Ourense to Santiago. The Camino del Levante, coming from the south east, joins it at Zamora.

26 Via de la Plata: ± km from Seville to Santiago This is part of an ancient Roman road connecting the north to the south, used by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians, Goths, Christians and Arabs. The first documented evidence of this road dates from 139 BC when the Consul Quintus Servilius Caepio founded the camp Castra Servile, a few kilometres from the present Cáceres. Starting in Seville in Andalucia, the route passes through Mérida, Cáceres and Salamanca to Zamora where several variants branch off to Santiago. There are a large number of Roman roads and bridges, milestones and monuments on this route. Vía Augusta: ± 130 km Cadiz to Seville One of the flattest of all the Camino routes, it starts at the church of Santiago, linking Cadiz on the Atlantic coast with Seville where one continues north on the Via de la Plata. Camino Sur: 184 km from Huelva to Zafra South-west of Seville, the route starts at Huelva on the Atlantic coast and joins the Via de la Plata at Zafra. Camino de Madrid: Accommodation guide (in Spanish), together with telephone numbers and some route clarifications by the Asociación de Amigos de los Caminos de Santiago de Madrid. Gu%C3%ADa-Camino-de-Madrid-Junio-2011.pdf Camino de Guadalajara: 120 km from Guadalajara to Sahagún A new route is being established from Guadalajara (about 54 km from Madrid) via Valladolid to join the Camino Frances at Sahagún. Camino Sanabres: 400 km from Zamora This is one of the branches of the Via de la Plata where it splits at Zamora. The Zamora to Ourense branch continuing to Santiago is known as the Sanabres route. Camino Mozárabe: 613 km from Granada a Mérida This is a strenuous and solitary route suitable for the very fit loner. It starts in Granada south east of Seville and continues North West to Córdoba across the sierras after which it joins the main Via de la Plata at Mérida

27 Routes from the west With Santiago being only 90 km from the sea, there are not many routes from the west. Pilgrims often arrived by sea into the Arousa Bay and sailed up the River Ulla. Others walked from nearby Portugal. Routes in other countries Ria de Arousa: 44 nautical miles This sea and river route through the Ria de Arousa and the river Ulla honours the arrival of the body of St James the Greater in Spain. The shores of the Ria de Arousa have varied landscapes and rich history. In Padrón, one will find the famous Padron stone where legend tells us the disciples of the apostle tied their boat when bringing his body ashore in Galicia. Finisterre and Muxia: 90 km from Santiago: 27 km to Muxia. Although most people end their Camino in Santiago, it is worth the extra three days walk to Finisterre the End of the World on the Costa del Morte. This extension is less crowded than the Camino Frances and there are four good albergues on the route, although they are not ideally placed. The first one at Negreira is only 21 km from Santiago, so that you can reach it by midafternoon. It is well worth watching the sun go down over the Atlantic at the end of the world. The pilgrim albergues at Finisterre are often crowded with pilgrims who have come by bus. Traditionally, this is where pilgrims burned their clothes after their long journey. After visiting the sights you can continue along the coast to Muxia about 27 km north. You could also go directly to Muxia from the Santiago-Finisterre route by taking a turn at Hospital which leads to Muxia and then walk from there to Finisterre (this section is way-marked in both directions). There are numerous Jacobean routes in the rest of Europe, many recently rehabilitated. Belgium GR 654 St Jacques de Compostelle: 460 km from Flanders to Vézelay You will cross in turn the great forests of the Ardennes, the undulating landscape of pre-ardennes ridges, the plain of Champagne with its centre in the Mountain of Reims. You then follow the great lakes of Champagne leaving the area around the coast of Barrois. The path from Maastricht to Tongeren continues on old Roman roads to the Via Monastica which finally ends in Vézelay. From there you follow the Via Lemovicensis to Santiago. Germany Just as there are several routes through France, there are also several routes through the Germanic lands. There is a Prague-Passau-Salzburg trail as well as a Vienna-Salzburg trail. The main Austrian route proceeds west via Innsbruck to the Swiss border near Feldkirch. From Ulm the path goes to Konstanz on Lake Constance and from there to Geneva in Switzerland and continues on the Via Gebenensis in France to Le Puy-en-Velay. Würzburg to Ulm is approximately 268 km and Ulm to Konstanz is approximately 160 km. More info on these routes: Der Munchner Jacobsweg: 330 km from Munich to Lake Constance Jacobsweg: Lake Constance to Geneva Nürnberg to Konstanz: 383 km This route starts in Nürnberg and leads southwest via Schwabach, Abenberg, Kalbensteinberg, Gunzenhausen, Markt Heidenheim, Oettingen, Nördlingen, Neresheim, Giengen, Nerestetten, Ulm, Oberdischingen. Apfingen, Biberach, Steinhausen, Bad Waldsee, Weingarten, Ravensburg, Brochenzell, Markdorf and Meersburg to Konstanz on the German-Swiss border (from where the pilgrim can continue on foot along the Jakobsweg in Switzerland). For an account of the Tillyschanz to Nürnberg section go to

28 The Confraternity of St James in the UK sell two guides by Alison Raju Pilgrim Guides to the Roads through Europe, Nurmberg to Konstanz and Via Gebbennensis, available from Netherlands Jacobs Pad An initiative of the Foundation Jacobspad Groningen Drenthe, the route is about 196 km and runs from Uithuizen through the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe. The route is suitable for both walkers and cyclists. Poland Via Regia (High Road) Way of St James Gniezno Zgorzelec/Görlitz Prague. The Ways of St James in North Rhine-Westphalia As early as 2008 an approximate 200 km long path was signposted with the scallop shell following an old trade route from Osnabrück via Münster and Dortmund up to Wuppertal. The latest Way of St James through the Rhineland, which was developed by Landschaftsverband Rheinland together with Deutsche Jakobsgesellschaft, was opened in 2009: it leads over a stretch of 230 km from the Dutch Nimwegen via Kleve and Xanten to Cologne or Bonn. The year-old routes developed in the Middle Ages from an old Roman road into an important trade route that linked the Rhineland with the North Sea. Several routes on the path to the grave of the apostle lead through North Rhine-Westphalia. A completely new second direct Way of St James in Westphalia has been added. Via Cervimontana: There are a number of useful sites to research these routes. The Way of St James along the Nysa Kłodzka Portugal Pilgrims travelled up the Portuguese coast from the Algarve in the south, via Lisbon and Porto to Santiago. There are many starting places and variants along this route to Santiago. From Lisbon to Santiago: 623 km You can download a guide book for this route: Caminho del Interior: 230 km Porto to Santiago This route starts at Porto and veers northwards crossing the rivers Lima and Minho where it enters Spain. You will cross the River Ulla at Padron before arriving at Santiago. Caminho de la Costa: 140 km Porto to Rendondela The coastal route from Porto crosses the river in Spain and continues via Vigo. Legend has it that King Don Manuel and Saint Thomas Becket walked this route. It joins the interior route in Rendonela. Caminho del Norte: 170 km Barcelos a Redondela Starting in Porto it breaks away from the Interior Way at Barcelos and rejoins it at Redondela. There is a variant which is signposted from Barcelos to Lanheses and from there to Vila Nova de Cerveira and Valenca do Minho. Caminho Portugués de la Via de la Plata: 268 km Zamora to Santiago From Zamora the path goes west via San Pedro de la Nave and Alcañices before crossing the border into Portugal. It continues via Bragança, Vinhais and Segirei before re-entering Spain where it joins the southern route through Galicia in Verín. From there the path continues to Ourense and Santiago.

29 Guide Lisbon to Santiago: From Porto: Other guide books: amigosdelospazos.com/publicaciones.htm Switzerland Swiss Route (Jakobsweg): 350 km historic route running east to west through Switzerland from Konstanz on the German border to Geneva. The Via Gebenensis: 350 km from Geneva Links the GR 65 from Geneva with the Via Podiensis at Le Puy. A pilgrim s story Robert Spenger Montez! The word was new to me, although I was to become only too well acquainted with this verb after I left the level plains of the Rhone delta. This first time, however, there was no mistaking the open car door and the authoritative voice. It was clearly a command not a request. I don t know whether my hesitation showed or not, but two thoughts stood out in my mind. Don t accept rides from complete strangers and Hey! this is a pilgrimage I am supposed to walk it all not ride in cars. It was the seventeenth of April, 2000, and at 8:00 that morning, as I stepped off the door sill of a motel near Arles, I repeated the old proverb to myself, a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. It was a later start than I had intended and by the time I got into the town, la Poste was open. I had cards to mail and I needed stamps, so I lost more time waiting in line. bottom of my pack, so I couldn t look it up until later. I sort of got the idea when we stopped at the first one, an old two-storey farm house, in the process of renovation. He had hired a Spanish couple to do the renovation work. He introduced me to their grown daughter, who spoke some English. She showed me around while he checked on the progress of the work. From her I learned that he owned most of the land around there. From there we rode to the other finca, consisting of several buildings on a ranch. I eventually learned that it was used for raising fighting bulls and horses native to the Camargue. He offered me a glass of wine and some olives. I accepted, but he did not join me. Then I was led into two long galleries which were decorated with the many trophies that his bulls had won, along with many pictures of himself with numerous world figures several presidents of France, Prince Philip of England, Jacqueline Onassis, and one of the popes. Needless to say I was quite impressed. Overwhelmed might be a better word. Showtime was not quite over. When we left the ranch buildings, we passed a field where the horses were grazing and he pointed out that they were all the desired white of the thoroughbred Camargue. This rather bizarre interruption of my journey ended when he dropped me off at a busy highway intersection and, pointing to the road to the west, said that it would get me to Saint Gilles. I arrived there around midday and found the tourist office where I managed to get a reservation for a chambres d hôte in the hamlet of Franquevaux and a second stamp for my pilgrim s passport. (The first was from the cloister at Arles.) It was another 5 km or so to Franquevaux, 24 km for the day, but I have no idea how much was bypassed by riding in the car. After this astonishing first day it was good to relax in the hospitality of the chambre d hôte, where I had an excellent dinner and breakfast, got my laundry done by machine, and enjoyed a long conversation with my Irish hostess. I finally left the town by way of the bridge across the Rhone and very soon lost the white and red stripes of the GR 653 way-marks. I was walking along a country road through open fields, when the car stopped alongside of me. The driver rolled down the window and asked Pèlerin? I managed to reply, Oui, although I felt it a bit presumptuous after only an hour or two on the road. He immediately opened the door and it was decision time. The gentleman was well dressed, probably in his fifties, and the car was neither flashy nor shabby. Safety was only my minor concern. Accepting a ride instead of walking was definitely an upsetting thought, but the thought of having lost the way-marks on this very first day was also upsetting. I quickly doffed my pack, pushed it under the dash and got in. My French and his English were negligible, so conversation was very limited at first, but I did learn that he had done the pilgrimage. Any concern about safety evaporated at that point. Now I understood why he stopped. The situation improved even more when I learned that he knew Spanish. My own knowledge of Spanish is very rudimentary, but it was a step up from my French. He told me that he had two fincas (country houses) but my Spanish dictionary was buried at the

30 Chapter 4 Choosing a route Now that you have learned about all the different Camino routes in France and Spain, it s important to know that you can start your Camino anywhere and walk, ride, take a bus or train in between and still earn the Compostela, if that is your aim. You don t get any points for walking a million kilometres you only have to walk the last consecutive 100 km from Santiago to earn the certificate (or ride the last 200 km). This means that you may walk, ride, cycle, bus, train or plane anywhere else along the route until you reach the last 100 km/200 km mark. To earn the Compostela the certificate of completion walkers and pilgrims on horseback must have completed the last consecutive 100 km and cyclists the last consecutive 200 km to Santiago. Places that are 100 km + from Santiago: Ferrol 108 Camino Inglés Lugo 101 Camino del Norte Sarria 114 Camino Frances Tui 117 Portuguese Caminho Ourense 108 Silver Way Muxia/Fisterra 116 Fisterra Way In this chapter Shorter routes in Spain Detours from the Camino Frances Starting places in alphabetical order Getting back home Shorter routes in Spain What if you only have three weeks, or two weeks, or even ten days? What if you only have five days? Here are some suggestions for shorter Camino walks all averaging ± 23 km per day and easy to get to. Five days to Santiago These walks to Santiago cover the last 100 km Camino Frances: From Sarria to Santiago Closest airport Santiago Bus to Lugo and then to Sarria from Santiago Camino Inglés: From Ferrol to Santiago Closest airport Santiago Bus or train to Ferrol Camino Portuguese: From Tui to Santiago Closest airport Porto Or, Vigo to Tui Via de la Plata: From Ourense to Santiago Closest airport Santiago Bus from Santiago to Ourense Ten days to Santiago Camino Frances: From Villafranca del Bierzo to Santiago: Alsa bus to Villafranca del Bierzo from Madrid, etc. or bus to Villafranca from Santiago Camino Inglés to Santiago and three days to Finisterre: Bus or train to el Ferrol Bus to A Coruña from Lavacolla airport Camino Português from Porto Closest airport Porto Santiago to Porto Alsa bus Camino Fisterra/Muxia: Start at Muxia, walk to Finisterre and Santiago Two weeks to Santiago Camino Frances: Léon to Santiago: Closest airport Oviedo or Valladolid Bus and train Via de la Plata: Salamanca to Santiago Closest airports: Madrid and Valladolid Camino del Norte: Gijon to Santiago 114 km 108 km 117 km 108 km 186 km 198 km 232 km 119 km 311 km 319 km 250 km

31 Three weeks to Santiago Camino Português via de la Plata from Zamora to Santiago Camino Primitivo from Oviedo Closest airport Oviedo Via de la Plata from Salamanca Closest airport Salamanca Camino Frances in three stages: St Jean Pied de Portto Logroño (7 days) Alsa bus to Léon and Astorga Astorga to Villafranca del Bierzo (4 days) Alsa bus to Lugo and Monbus to Sarria Sarria to Santiago 5 days 380 km 369 km ± 500 km 325 km Eunate From Muruzabel, about 3 km off the Camino path, is the octagonal church of Santa María de Eunate. Built around 1170 it has been associated with the Knights Templar and excavations close by have revealed numbers of graves with scallop shells suggesting that it could have been a funerary church. The walls have many mason signs that you will see all along the Camino. There is a small refuge there but check to see if it is open before planning to spend the night. If you are not too bothered about obtaining the Compostela certificate you ll have a Smorgasbord of Camino routes to choose from! Lourdes to Somport on the Via Tolosana Somport to Puente la Reina on the Aragones El Salvador from Léon to Oviedo The Primitivo to Santiago ± 130 km ± 180 km 120 km 369 km Detours from the Camino Frances When planning to walk the Camino Frances, allow a few extra days for detours from the Camino path. There are many interesting, historical places just a few kilometres off the actual path that are not on the modern Camino but which probably were a part of alternate trails in the Middle Ages. Some will add a few kilometres to your walk, others you can reach by bus or take a tour. Ibaneta Pass If you start in Roncesvalles, try to get there early enough to take a 3 km walk up to the m Ibaneta Pass and look into France from the top. The famous monastery and hospice of San Salvador once stood here. There is a modern chapel here dedicated to Charlemagne and a monument to Roland. This is where the Route Napoleon and the Val Carlos Route join. Roncesvalles Many pilgrims start at Roncesvalles (or stagger in late from St Jean-Pied de-port!), but because they arrive on the evening bus, they don t have time to explore this historic monastery complex. Try to get there the day before, or take a taxi from Pamplona (share the fare with other pilgrims) so that you have time to visit the cloisters and the museum with its extraordinary reliquaries and other artefacts. Scan the church walls for mason signs; visit the old walls of the original hospice opposite the church and the monastery ossuary that is said to hold the remains of Charlemagne s soldiers. Clavijo 18 km south-west of Logroño is the ruined castle of Clavijo, reputedly the site where Santiago appeared on a white horse to help the Christian soldiers against Moor invasions. You can take a taxi there or walk there and back in two days. San Millán de la Cogalla 14 km south-west of Azofra are the magnificent monasteries of Suso and Yuso, the first built between the 5th and 6th centuries and the Yuso around the 16th century. Atapuerca Book a guided tour to the fascinating archaeological site which lies within a military zone about 40 km from the village. Atapuerca is one of Europe s most important archaeological sites. It was declared a World Heritage Site in (No private visits allowed.) info@atapuerca.es Santo Domingo de Silos Take a bus from Burgos to the monastery where the Gregorian chants were made famous a few years ago. (The trip itself is an experience, along narrow winding roads, through stunning, rock-face scenery.) The cloisters are unique and the pharmacy museum is worth a visit so plan on spending at least two nights. The bus leaves Burgos at 17h30 and returns at 08h30 the next day not leaving enough time to see the village, hear the chanting and visit the museum. Castrojeriz Climb the hill and visit the ruins of the castle Mirador with spectacular views of the valley below. Visit the Convent of Santa Clara about 2 km south of the village a closed order where you can buy biscuits and other baked goodies by passing your money through a revolving serving hatch.

32 Castrojeriz Climb the hill and visit the ruins of the castle Mirador with spectacular views of the valley below. Visit the Convent of Santa Clara about 2 km south of the village a closed order where you can buy biscuits and other baked goodies by passing your money through a revolving serving hatch. Ponferrada or Astorga or Molinaseca About 60 km from Astorga and 20 km from Ponferrada, the fantastical landscape of the Medulas used to be the most important gold mine in the Roman Empire. Las Médulas landscape is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Vega de Valcarce You will see the Castle Sarracin squatting on the high hill to your left on the way to O Cebreiro. Originally built in the 9th century, it was owned by the lords of Sarracin who also owned 35 small towns in the area. This 14th century castle was one of eight castles owned by the Marques de Villafranca. A round trip of about 45 minutes will reward you with extensive views and an impressive ruin that has sheer cliffs on three sides. Eirexe A 6 km detour to the recently restored, spectacular Monasterio de San Salvador at Vilar das Donas. Fisterra and Muxia About 90 km west of Santiago is the small fishing village of Fisterra or Finisterre, known as The End of The World in medieval times. The bus takes about 2.5 hours or you can walk there in three to four days and earn the Fisterrana certificate. Muxia 25 km north of Fisterra and the final destination of Santiago pilgrims, legend has it that the Virgin Mary appeared to an evangelic apostle. The Celtic stones near the church are said to be remains of the Virgin Mary s stone boat. Padron South-west of Santiago visit the church of Santiago which contains the Pedron stone under the altar. This is the stone where Saint James disciples tied their boat when they came ashore with his body which they had brought from the Holy Land. Starting places You can start your pilgrimage in any country, from any place, on any route. This guide is focused on the routes in France and Spain but you will find information and advice by going to the links provided for routes in other countries. Flights to France or Spain Most international airlines fly into Paris in France and Madrid or Barcelona in Spain. From the US you might find it cheaper to fly to an airport in the UK and get an economical flight, coach or ferry to France or Spain from there. The most convenient would be to fly on the Spanish carrier Iberia on a multi-route ticket which means that you can fly to any destination in Europe, walk to Santiago and fly out from Santiago, usually with a change in Madrid. Starting in France The Via Turonensis Starts in Paris or Tours. Most national airlines fly to Paris and then you get a train or bus to Tours. The Via Podiensis. Starts in Le Puy By Air: From Paris you can fly direct to Le Puy on exair: Or, you can fly to Lyon airport and take a bus from there to St Etienne and a train to Le Puy. By Rail: TVG from Paris to Lyon, local train to St Etienne, and a second local train on to Le Puy.

33 Via Lemovicensis Starts in Vézelay By rail: From Paris: TGV (Gare de Lyon station to Montbard connection by bus to Avallon). Connections to Vézelay Friday evening and Monday morning all year round. Every other day only in July and August. Or: Train from Paris (Gare de Lyon station or Bercy station) to Laroche- Migennes or Auxerre then local train to Sermizelles (10 km from Vézelay). Taxi to Vézelay. Train Via Tolosana Starts in Arles By air: or Airfrance to Marseilles: By rail: www. voyages-sncf.com Chemin du Piemont Via Carcassonne and Lourdes to St Jean-Pied de-port. Starts in Narbonne Ryanair and other airlines fly from various UK airports. The nearest airports to Narbonne Plage are Plage, Beziers, Carcassonne, Montpellier, Nimes and Perpignan. The TGV stops at Narbonne and a local bus will take you to Narbonne-Plage. Starting in Spain The most Frequently Asked Question about the Camino Frances is: How do I get to St Jean-Pied de-port? St Jean is a small, medieval tourist town at the foot of the western Pyrenees close to the Spanish border. There is no direct bus or train service to St Jean from the main cities of France. The closest bus or train stations in France are in Bayonne/ Biarritz. Check for timetables. A quicker and easier way (but obviously more costly) is to take a taxi from Bayonne/ Biarritz to St Jean. You can book a lift in a shuttle service Express Bourricot (Smart Donkey) that operates from St Jean transporting pilgrims from airports at Biarritz, Pau and Bilbao. There is a facility on their website to form a carpool. From Spain: From June 1 until October 16, the bus company ALSA runs two buses per day (14h00 and 17h30) from the Pamplona Bus Station to Saint Jean Pied de Port. ( 20) There is a return bus from St Jean to Pamplona at 19h30. Tickets can be purchased online from the international section of and from Other times of the year: There is a regular bus from Pamplona to Roncesvalles (duration 70 mins): Artieda: / You can buy tickets from Pamplona Bus Station or online at the website: www. autobusesdenavarra.com If you buy online you must show the tracking number or proof of payment on the bus. Monday to Friday: 18h00 (From July 1 to August 31 there is another at 10h00) Saturdays: 16h00 (July 1 to August 31there is another at 10:00) Sundays: No Service Price: 6 and an extra charge of 6 for a bike. (You must remove the wheels and saddlebags.) When you arrive in Roncesvalles, there will be many taxis waiting at the bus stop to take pilgrims to St Jean Pied de Port. Taxis from Pamplona or Roncesvalles are based in Pamplona: Teletaxi San Fermin, Tel: and Rates: Weekdays: 57 from Pamplona to Roncesvalles: 60 from the Pamplona Airport to Roncesvalles: 96 from Pamplona to Saint Jean Pied de Port: 100 from Pamplona Airport to Saint Jean Pied de Port: Weekends and holidays: 70 from Pamplona to Roncesvalles: 75 from Pamplona to Roncesvalles airport: 120 from Pamplona to Saint Jean Pied de Port: 125 from Pamplona Airport to Saint Jean Pied de Port. There is an option to share a taxi with other pilgrims. More information comparte.php TIP: Although hitchhiking is illegal in Spain, many pilgrims hitch a ride from Spain to France to start their walk in St Jean. However, few motorists will give a lift to a pilgrim walking towards Santiago!

34 A pilgrim hostel in St Jean offers a page on their website for you to put your name down for a carpool as well, so that you can share a taxi to St Jean: carpoolen.html They also have a link to the timetable for the rail/bus line to St Jean and a town map ( and information on parking your car in St Jean and walking the Camino from there. When you arrive in St Jean visit the Pilgrim s Office to collect a pilgrim passport (Credencial) and find out where to stay the night. Accueil des pelerins de St-Jacques, 39 rue de la Citadelle. The office is open from 7h30 to 12h30 and then from 13h30 to 22h00. If you go in the busy season (July September) it is advisable to book a bed ahead in one of the private albergues in St Jean. Esprit du Chemin: Auberge du pelerine: There are two routes from St Jean to Roncesvalles the road route which is on the original route through Val Carlos (Valley of Charlemagne), now a small tarred road, and a cross country route called the Route Napoleon. If you are reluctant to cross the Pyrenees on the Route Napoleon to Spain in one day, you can book a bed at the Refuge Orisson which is about 8 km up the hill from St Jean: Starting from France or Spain in alphabetical order Arles Fly to Nimes-Arles (or to Marseilles) Air France train to Arles Via Tolosana Astorga from Valladolid ALSA bus to Astorga. Camargue Airport (FNI/LFTW) and then a train to Arles: Or, TVG from Paris to Avignon and then a local train to Arles. Astorga from Madrid Travel to Léon by train or bus:you can get the ALSA bus from Madrid Barajas airport. It takes about five hours. If you go by train, there is a Renfe office in the airport (on the lower level to the right of where you exit customs). They can sell you a ticket there. There are about eight trains a day to Léon. It takes ± 4 hours. The train station you need to get to is Madrid-Chamartin. You get there on themetro which leaves from the airport. Once in Léon you can get an ALSA bus to Astorga. There are over 20 buses a day, they take about 50 minutes. Bayonne from London Eurolines National Express overnight coach. Biarritz from Santiago Train from Santiago passing Astorga, Léon, Burgos and then going north-east via Bilbao to the border at Irún -Hendaye. Then another to Bayonne. Bilbao by sea Brittany Ferries Portsmouth twice a week. Burgos Madrid to Burgos: Three trains a day: About 20 buses per day: refuge.orisson@wanadoo.fr If they are full, you can walk to Orisson, get a taxi back to St Jean (for about 3) and the same taxi back to Orisson the next day to continue your walk to Ronceavalles. If taking the road route you can stay at a pilgrim hostel in Val Carlos (valley of Charlemagne) or in a B&B or Casa Rural. Castrojeriz By bus from Burgos Estella By bus from Pamplona Ferrol from Santiago or Lugo by bus: By train: (See alphabetical list for starting in Roncesvalles)

35 Irún from Barcelona. By train: Barcelona Nord to Irún. By bus: Vibasa Bus runs an overnight bus from Barcelona Nord to Irún : Irún from Madrid. By bus, seven hours: By train, five hours: Jaca from Barcelona. Alosa bus via Huesca Jaca from Pamplona. By bus Léon from Barcelona. By train Or by bus Barcelona/Sants to Léon: Léon from Bilbao: By train Léon from Madrid. By train ± 4 hours By air, fly to Valladolid. Alsa.es run a direct service from Valladolid airport to Léon takes 1h45. Logroño from Barcelona. By train: By bus: Logroño from Bilbao. By bus: Logroño from Irún. Bus to Pamplona and then another to Logroño from there. Logroño from Madrid. When you arrive at Madrid Barajas, you can take either a taxi or the metro (stop at Avenida de America Station) to Inter-cambiador de Avenida de América nº 9, and ask for the ALSA bus to Logroño. Rail: There are very few trains from Madrid to Logroño. Logroño from Pamplona. By bus Madrid from Barcelona. AVE fast train O Cebreiro from Bilbao, Madrid and Pamplona Bus to Piedrafita (5 km from Cebreiro) O Cebreiro from Ponferrada By bus to Piedrafita via Lugo Oviedo from Madrid By train Pamplona from Alicante.There are buses from the from Alicante airport to Pamplona. There is one that leaves at 8h15 and arrives in Pamplona at 18h15 and another that leaves at 20h20 and arrives at 5h35 Bilman Bus Company Pamplona from Barcelona. By bus: By rail: At the BCN airport, exit the secured area and walk through the sky tunnel to the left to the Cercania. It will take you to Sants Estació. Sants Estació has both the train station and the bus station you need. There are three trains to Pamplona daily. Train to Irún and then from Biarritz to Pamplona: By bus: Or 6h00 bus to San Sebastian (± 1 hour) so that you can get the 10h00 train to Pamplona Pamplona from Madrid. By bus: By train: Fly: Ponferrada from Bilbao. By bus: By train: Ponferrada from Madrid. By train: By bus: Porto from Santiago. By bus: By train: to Vigo and then to Porto Roncesvalles from Bilbao. By bus: Or 6h00 bus to San Sebastian (± 1 hour) and 10h00 train to Pamplona 2 hours. (Next train is 18h00) 6h00 bus to Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles from Paris. By rail: high-speed train south to Bayonne or Biarritz: Train from Biarritz (and Bayonne) to St Jean Pied de Port± 1hr50. Express Bourricot taxi to Roncesvalles book ahead: apcaroline@hotmail.com

36 Roncesvalles from Madrid. By bus: to Pamplona By train: to Pamplona. Fly: to Pamplona. 18h00 bus to Roncesvalles com Salamanca from Madrid. By bus from Conde de Casal Station By train: Santander from Plymouth. Brittany Ferries Sarria from Burgos. By bus to Lugo: And then to Sarria on By train: By bus to Lugo: And then to Sarria on from Madrid By train: Or fly to Santiago bus to Lugo and then bus to Sarria. Or train, bus to Santiago and taxi to Sarria Sarria from Pamplona By train: on the LUGO line Sarria from Santiago By bus to Lugo: and then half an hour bus to Sarria: Santiago from Madrid Fly: Ryanair.com By bus: By train: Seville from Madrid By bus: St Jean Barcelona By train to Bayonne Then French train to St Jean from Jean: By train to Pamplona and a taxi to St Jean St Jean from Bayonne/ Biarritz Taxi: or By train or bus from Biarritz to St Jean via Bayonne: ake the #6 bus from the Biarritz airport to the train station. It leaves about every 30 minutes and takes about 45 minutes. Or train to Bayonne then bus or train to St Jean-Pied de-port. St Jean from Bilbao by bus: ALSA buses to Irún leave Bilbao many, many times a day. The next day you travel from Irún to Bayonne by bus/train and from Bayonne to SJPP by train: from Madrid By train to Hendaya: then SNCF train to St Jean Or by train to Pamplona and taxi to St Jean Triacastela from Santiago By bus to Lugo on Freire: and then Monbus to Triacastela: Vézelay TGV from Paris: Gare de Lyon station to Montbard (connection by bus to Avallon). Train from Paris (Gare de Lyon station or Bercy station) to Laroche-Migennes or Auxerre then local train to Sermizelles (10km from Vézelay) and taxi from Sermizelles French train: Spanish train: Spanish bus: Use the above general transport website to find bus connections between cities in Spain. Getting back home * The Central Bus Station in Santiago is at Plaza Camilo Díaz Baliño: Tel: * The Train Station Rua Hórreo: Tel: * The Freire bus line connects Santiago to Lavacolla airport. Tel: There are also many taxis. * A Coruña: You can go by bus or train: Bus is cheaper and more frequent. * Barcelona: Fly Spanair, Vueling or Ryanair. By bus 17 hours no direct train * Biarritz by train: * Bilbao: Train hours * Irún : Train hours * Madrid: Iberia, Spanair and Ryanair fly to Madrid. Train Bus: * Paris: You can take the Renfe train from Santiago which leaves about 9h00 and connects with the SNCF night train at Hendaye arriving in Paris at about 7h00, or fly on Vueling.com Airlines that fly from Santiago s Lavacolla airport Aerolineas Argentinas Aer Lingus Air Berlin Air Europa Iberia Buenos Aires-Ezeiza Dublin [seasonal] Palma de Mallorca Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Tenerife-South Madrid

37 Iberia operated by Air Nostrum Bilbao, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Seville, Tenerife North, Valencia Iberworld Lanzarote, Tenerife-South Ryanair Alicante, Barcelona, Frankfurt-Hahn, London, Stansted, Madrid, Málaga, Reus, Rome Ciampino Spanair Barcelona, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Tenerife-South Vueling Airlines Barcelona, Málaga, Paris-Charles de Gaulle, Zürich About six kilometres away from Ponferrada two male Spanish pilgrims, whom I had never seen before, offered to walk with me, carry my backpack, and locate the new albergue in Ponferrada for me. They lacked packs because they were NOT TRUE PILGRIMS their own words. They hired taxis to ferry packs from hotel to hotel. Their names were Jason and Jesus Cristo. To add to that story, my mom and I flew out of Barcelona to Heathrow, London, on the 11th or 12th then got stranded. However, we happened to be at a place in the airport where the American Embassy was picking up stranded Americans. We boarded a bus to Surrey where Americans had decided to house their stranded fellows. We stayed with a woman with two children, a boy and girl. My mom and I each had our own room and bathroom. And, the taxi that brought the families stranded in Canada, husband and father, home on Sunday 16th took us to the airport. We saw the sights of London, although with heavy hearts. Spoke to other stranded and vacationing Americans and, at the Waterloo station while eating at McDonalds, there was a minute of silence for the USA. Cashiers stepped back from the registers, people stopped talking and walking. Looked surreal: very moving. A pilgrim s story Barbara June In 2001 I walked the Camino from Roncesvalles to Santiago for the first time. I had planned on returning home to NYC on Sept. 7th or 8th. I was pressed for time so I walked most of the way then took the bus from Sarria to right outside of Santiago then walked four of five kilometres to Santiago. Thought you had to arrive in Santiago on foot. Arrived in Santiago September 3, 2001, went to Pilgrim s Office and was told I WAS NOT A PILGRIM because I did not walk the last 100 km. I argued, was accused of being an attorney and told to come back the following year and finish: no go. I knew my personal history if I did not finish that year I would never do so. Spent a night in Santiago; boarded train back to Sarria, walked back to Santiago. I asked God please do not let war break out, famine, broken leg anything to impede completion of the Camino. I arrived back in Santiago on Sept. 9th. My mom and I celebrated (she went with me, but did not walk), the Pilgrim s Office was glad and surprised to see me. I received my Compostela. On September 11th, as the planes were hitting the World Trade Centre/WTC my mom and I were standing on the train platform in Santiago. Had I not made that error I would have been back in NYC. I usually worked in downtown NYC. Always took the train that went right under the WTC. And, sometimes on way to work would stop at Sabarro s café for a slice of cheesecake to eat for lunch. Who knows what could have happened! In September 2002, I went back to walk and volunteer to thank God for not letting me be in NYC on that day. I received a slight case of water poisoning in Rabanal del Camino the day I was due to arrive in Ponferrada to start volunteering. As I was walking I became progressively sicker.

38 Documents Chapter 5 Preparing for the Himalaya of hiking trails A writer for Time magazine described the Camino Frances as the Himalaya of hiking trails (July 5, 2004). Although it cannot be even remotely compared to climbing the Himalayas, most Camino trails are pretty long hikes, averaging about 500 miles or 800 km on the Camino Frances, 600 miles or km on the Via de la Plata, and if you plan on walking from Paris, Le Puy or Vézelay or Arles, you ll walk double that distance. Passport The only document citizens of the European Union (EU) member states need to travel around France and Spain is their national identity card. All other nationalities must carry an official passport. Passports must be valid for a few months beyond the date of travel to qualify for a visa. When registering at a hotel, hostel or pilgrim shelter you are required by law to present your passport. Visa Travelling in Europe was simplified with the introduction of the Schengen visa. Generally speaking a Schengen visa enables you to enter one country and travel freely throughout the Schengen region during the validity of the visa. Internal border controls are limited with no or few stops and checks. The Schengen visa must be applied for at the Embassy or Consulate of the Schengen country where you will be staying the longest. If you are only visiting one country on your trip then you must apply for your visa at the Consulate of that Schengen country. A Schengen visa allows the holder to travel freely within the Schengen countries for a maximum stay of up to 90 days in a six-month period. This makes it difficult for people wanting to walk the really long distance trails that can take over three months. Apply for the visa as soon as you have booked your flights. You might have to provide proof of foreign exchange, copies of bank statements as well as booked and confirmed air tickets, accommodation booked or letters of invitation and proof of travel insurance. Travel insurance If you are from an EU country you can apply for a free European Health Insurance Card, EHIC, (formerly the E111), which offers you access to reduced cost medical treatment. All other travellers should take out comprehensive travel insurance cover that covers medical costs, cancellation, curtailment, expatriation, loss of baggage, etc. If you intend walking in the mountains, read the exclusions on the policy in case hiking or mountaineering is not covered. Some credit card companies, VISA and MasterCard, offer free automatic insurance cover when the air tickets are booked using their cards. By comparison, the linear distance between the Himalayas base camps to the peak of Everest is not great just over 8.5 miles or 10 km but it is the altitude gain in the mountains that makes the Himalayas one of the most difficult of all mountain climbs. Just as dozens of climbers don t reach the summit of Everest each year, hundreds if not thousands of pilgrims do not achieve their goals of walking the entire Camino route, from their chosen starting place to Santiago de Compostela. In this chapter Driving licence If you are from an EU country your valid driving licence will be accepted when hiring a car. For all other travellers, an International Driving Permit (IDP) is recommended over and above the official drivers licence. The IDP is an official document which is recognised in over 150 countries. It provides important information about your driver s licence in different languages, including English. The document serves as a verification that you have an official licence as well as a translation of your drivers licence. Although some countries will accept your valid driver s licence, they may require a local language translation from either an embassy or consulate. The IDP satisfies both of these requirements. In addition, car rental companies may request that you produce a valid IDP for rental purposes. Documents Preparing mind, body and soul Physical training Walking solo or with a friend or group Budgets Things to know Posting baggage ahead

39 TIP: You can have your credencial stamped at albergues, café bars, restaurants, tourist offices, even at police stations. The stamps are a great reminder of all the places you visit on your Camino. Preparing mind, body and soul Many pilgrims underestimate the physical challenge of walking for between five and ten hours, covering km every day for four to six weeks, with a backpack, and are unable to maintain the pace they set for themselves. Large numbers get behind on their planned schedule and resort to catching buses or trains in order to keep to their schedule. Others suffer blisters, tendonitis, strained muscles, shin splints, stress fractures, twisted ankles or knees, broken limbs, colds, flu or sheer exhaustion on the trail. Many have to stop walking, rest up for a few days or even give up and go home. Credencial del Peregrino Some give up when they realise that they are not enjoying the self-inflicted regime of rising early, eating frugally, walking in rain and mud one day and in dusty, blistering heat the next. Some can t adjust to walking in a foreign country, eating different food or sleeping in cramped, noisy dormitories. Nobody in their right mind would attempt to climb the Himalayas without serious training and preparation. Besides collecting and testing the necessary clothing and equipment, and doing lots of physical training, mountaineers and long-distance hikers should be mentally, spiritually and psychologically prepared for this test of their endurance. Although hundreds of reasonably fit people walk the Camino every year without a heavy regime of training beforehand, the majority need to develop fitness, to be physically strong and to be mentally, psychologically and spiritually prepared. The Credencial or Pilgrim s Passport will give you access to the organised system of pilgrim accommodation in France and Spain. You can obtain this passport from the St James association in your country (see list in Chapter 1) or from the first albergue you stay in when you start your walk. It is also available from some churches, cathedrals or tourism offices in Spain. Even the private albergues, where you can book ahead or have your luggage transferred, require that you present the credencial in order to stay. When you register at the albergue, you will receive a rubber stamp in your passport and this is often a wonderful souvenir of your pilgrimage with delightful stamps from all the different places you ve stayed in. Doing a Camino is not a sprint; it is a test of endurance, covering at least half a marathon, day after day, for 35 days in a row. You ll have a much better chance of enjoying your pilgrimage, of coping with the crossing of two or three mountain ranges, of withstanding the extremes of climate, the change of food and water and of maintaining your focus if you are physically fit, mentally strong and spiritually prepared to accept all the challenges of the Camino. You will need to present the stamped credencial at the Pilgrim s Office in Santiago in order to earn the Compostela, a certificate of completion given to all pilgrims who walk the last 100 km or cycle the last 200 km to Santiago.

40 Get your mind right Are you mentally prepared for a multi-day pilgrimage trek and all it entails? Can you switch off from your regular life for 30 days or more and forget about the responsibilities of work and home? Are you prepared to live out of your comfort zone? Are there certain characteristics in people that irritate you that make you say, I can t accept it when people? Can you overlook your companion s frailties or habits? What are your hopes, fears or expectations? Just as with the physical preparation, you will need to prepare mentally for walking day after day in all weather, all terrain, in a different country, even when you are feeling below par or when you start to question why you are doing this journey. You will have to be prepared to accept the hospitality of your host country without criticism or complaint. Some of your accommodation might not fulfil your expectations. How will you react to cramped dormitories, lumpy beds, unhygienic ablutions and rowdy tourists? Restaurants, shops and other public facilities might not live up to your standards. Pilgrimage is a metaphor for life and there will be good and bad days, unplanned for difficulties, upsetting and distressful times just as there are in normal life. Buddhist quote for the Camino: Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment. If your expectation is that the walk is going to be a constantly happy ramble through picturesque countryside, enchanting villages, quaint towns, ancient cities with exotic locals and charming little bistros and restaurants you are right. But there will also be busy, dirty highways, uncaring motorists, industrial approaches to cities, surly innkeepers, churlish waiters and poor food. Can you accept the good with the bad? Turn the negatives into positive lessons. They will give you an opportunity to consider the privileged life you have back home, how good your roads are, your standards of accommodation, your friendly waiters and shop assistants. By being physically and mentally prepared, you will be more receptive to the spiritual gifts of the trail. It is difficult to appreciate a stunning panoramic view if your back aches, you have a stinging blister on your heel or if you are still smarting from the rude remarks of a waiter or shop assistant. All your energy will be focused inward, to the physicality of your situation. Get into the spirit! Spirit (n) L. spiritus: breath, courage, vigour, the soul of life. There is spirituality on any nature trail, especially those that take you into wilderness areas. People talk about feeling energised when they are in the mountains or on the seashore. Bracing mountain air literally fills one with vigour (the soul of life). Are you ready for the spirituality of the pilgrimage? Can you look at the view through the eyes of medieval pilgrims who had never seen such sights as mountain ranges, waterfalls, hills covered in poppies or the sea? Look for the beauty in everything you see. Not only the natural sights like mountains, misty forests and vineyards but also in the faces of the people you meet, voices, cowbells, church spires, Roman bridges and ancient walls. The beauty will balance out all the ugly sights you see rubbish tips, car graveyards and congested traffic. Spirituality has religious connotations. One can feel it in the Pyramids of Giza, in Inca temples, in Buddhist Tibet and in the Christian churches and temples of Europe. Medieval pilgrimage trails in Europe are based on the faith and belief of millions of people who were seeking absolution for their sins and the intercession of saints so that they would be assured of a place in their heavenly home. The churches, cathedrals, abbeys, monasteries and convents are not merely tourist attractions but holy structures, witnesses to the year-old faith of the Catholic Church. Even if you do not belong to any organised religion, open your mind to the spiritual experience of the churches and cathedrals. Be open to the prayers and blessing of others. Attend the pilgrim s mass which is often very moving. A 1000-year-old pilgrim blessing in the monastery at Roncesvalles, Spain, says: The door is open to all, sick or well; not only Catholics, but pagans also. To Jews, heretics, idlers, the vain, and as I shall briefly note, the good and the worldly too and we welcome them all like brothers. Make a pledge to be a good pilgrim. Sign this contract with yourself before you go. I undertake to be a good and supportive companion; a grateful visitor, a thankful pilgrim passing through foreign lands. I will be friendly and kind to all I meet and will be a good ambassador for my country. I cannot control the places, events, people or experiences I encounter but I can control the way I react and interact. I will not criticise or complain if things are not up to my expectations. I will endeavour to walk this ancient pilgrimage trail with appreciation and joy, always mindful of the millions who have walked before me and of the multitudes that are still to follow. I will walk with integrity and will keep an open mind to all the lessons it can teach me. Signed:. The idea of your trek started as a seed planted and waiting for germination. All the preparation has helped it to grow. Now is the time to nurture it and feed it so that it evolves into a strong and beautiful experience. The way you experience the Camino can bear fruit, not only for yourself in the lessons you will learn but for what you will pass on to others who want to follow. You have a responsibility to yourself and your companions to be prepared, to step out of your comfort zone, to walk with an open mind, to embrace the beauty, to turn negatives into positives, to have a sense of humour, to be kind to each other and to strangers and allow them to be kind to you. Physical training You would not go on a km car journey without having your vehicle serviced, or at least checking the oil, water, tyre pressure and filling up the tank. Make sure that you are in top physical shape for the long walk. Ensure good health by eating a balanced diet, lots of fruit and vegetables and increase your protein intake to build more muscle, and calcium to strengthen bones. This is not a sprint or a marathon where you need to bulk on carbohydrates. A course of multivitamins and immune boosters might balance what your body is lacking. Try to regularly get a good night s sleep. Your body recovers while you are sleeping and depriving it of sleep will result in exhaustion and sluggish muscles. Besides your daily walking training, do specific exercises to strengthen back and shoulder muscles. Whilst watching television, lift weights perhaps leg lifts with a heavy

41 Physical training You would not go on a km car journey without having your vehicle serviced, or at least checking the oil, water, tyre pressure and filling up the tank. Make sure that you are in top physical shape for the long walk. Ensure good health by eating a balanced diet, lots of fruit and vegetables and increase your protein intake to build more muscle, and calcium to strengthen bones. This is not a sprint or a marathon where you need to bulk on carbohydrates. A course of multivitamins and immune boosters might balance what your body is lacking. Try to regularly get a good night s sleep. Your body recovers while you are sleeping and depriving it of sleep will result in exhaustion and sluggish muscles. Besides your daily walking training, do specific exercises to strengthen back and shoulder muscles. Whilst watching television, lift weights perhaps leg lifts with a heavy towel across both feet to strengthen tummy and torso. How much, how far, how often? Of the pilgrims who earned a Compostela in 2010, 87.4% were walkers. For this reason, we will focus mainly on walking training in this section. If you are not a regular walker, a good walking training programme could be the difference between a comfortable, pain-free walk and a hobbling, painful trek. If you are a healthy, fairly active person, starting a programme about four months before your walk should do the trick. If you are grossly overweight, inactive or ill see your doctor before embarking on any training programme. You might want to lose weight, go on a course of vitamins or clear up an illness before you start training. If you have been invited to accompany a relative or friend, motivate yourself. If you don t really want to go, it will be difficult to stay the distance let alone enjoy it! Start by walking through your favourite shopping mall taking the stairs between levels. Progress to walking around your neighbourhood; measure a distance of 2 km to 5 km with your car and walk that route two or three times a week. Build up the distance and time on your feet. Buy a pedometer to measure the distances you walk and keep a log you will be surprised at how the kilometres build up. Once you have established a regular walking regime, try to walk every day. Do three longish walks of up to 10 km each week and a few shorter walks of between 2 km and 5 km. Do longer distances over the weekends up to 20 km. Nearer the time of departure, walk back-to-back long walks and hikes over hilly terrain with your backpack. Keep walking, and when it is time for your walk, you will be ready. Walking uses different muscles you might get shin splints and a painful backside from climbing For shoulders and arms, hold a 450 g can of food in each hand and do weight training for arms and shoulders. With arms outstretched on either side of the body rotate the cans to the count of ten; then bring hands to shoulders to the count of ten; bend your arms and bring elbows and hands together, level with shoulders open and close to the count of ten. Before you go, treat your feet to a pedicure so that toenails are short and problem spots are dealt with. Any training should be specific to the event: cycling for a cycle event, walking for a walking event. Cross training is great and relieves the monotony of doing specific training but if you are going to walk the Camino then you need to do WALKING training. steep hills! You will be on your feet for much longer than you are used to so you need to build stamina and endurance. Time on your feet will be much more important than speed and even the fittest runner will be tested doing a long, day after day walk. Other tips Listen to your body, let your breathing and heart rate recover before hard effort. Be disciplined, make sure you put the effort in. Try to incorporate hills into your walks and use them for hard walks, not for recovery. Do not expect immediate results, persevere and improvements will follow. Remember to take days off to rest to let your body recover.

42 Find a good pair of walking shoes/boots to use on your walks break them in. Keep yourself well nourished and hydrated. Eat high carb foods and drink plenty of water. Feel free to use a treadmill, but remember to get outside. Your long distance walk is mostly outdoors. Work out to build the other muscles in your body especially shoulders and back. Walk with a buddy. Talking to someone during your walk will make it more enjoyable. Listening to music on a personal music player or singing marching songs often encourages you to walk further as you concentrate on the music instead of the distance. Remember to include stretching in your programme. Walkers are subject to the same kinds of pulls, strains and other problems that runners get. Warming up is usually not a problem as you can get a perfectly fine warm-up by just beginning your walk at a slower pace. Muscles respond best to stretching when they are warm. Don t go out on a cold day and begin to stretch. Your stretches are best done either after the workout or after a thorough warm-up (or both). Walking with a friend or a group Sharing your Camino with a partner or a friend can be a very rewarding experience. However, the old adage two is company, three is a crowd can be very true when walking the Camino. Spending 30 days or more together on holiday in a foreign country can be trying for even the closest of friends but when you engage in something as strenuous as the Camino with a friend or with a group of people, tiredness, injuries or just not enjoying the experience can lead to friction, dissatisfaction and arguments. Walking solo or with a friend or group Walking solo Hundreds of pilgrims, both men and women, walk solo. The benefits are that you are more likely to interact with other pilgrims, will probably always find a bed in a pilgrim refuge, will have time for contemplation and solitude, which is not always possible when walking with a friend or a group. A priest once said: Solitude is necessary and often welcome but there are times when we need com-pan-eros, the ones we eat bread with. Bread is so evident at Spanish meals, not only those wonderful bocadillos, but the bread that comes with everything you eat. As the Spaniards say Com pan y vino, ande el Camino with bread and wine we walk the Camino! A companion is someone we share bread with, not just the edible type but also the bread of our experiences and the many insights, revelations and learnings that we consume as we walk along the Way. Women are safe walking on their own as long as they follow normal safety rules. Don t drink too much. Don t walk alone in a dubious area of big cities and don t walk alone after dark.

43 You will hear many tales of broken friendships, grudges and recriminations occurring in small and large groups. Groups often spilt up, some members going on alone, whilst others even cut their holiday short. Sometimes a member of the group might need time alone and will resent having to stay with others day in and day out. A pilgrim who walked with a group said, No one really had private time despite encouragement to give people their space, they wanted to be together. Many lacked the courage to spend time on their own, needing the reassurance of companionship, acceptance, someone to tell them what they should be carrying, wearing, where they should go etc. My friend Carol and I planned on walking el Camino together, said Jane. Then Carol asked if her friend Jackie could join us. She told me that I would love Jackie but we never really hit it off. We were planning a pilgrimage and she wanted a walking holiday complete with hotels and gourmet meals. We ended up being her tour guide having to wait for her to get ready each day and eat at restaurants we didn t intend eating in. When you are with a group you lose some of the opportunities for contemplation. I think that if you walk in a group you are very tempted to chat about home, kids, and all the little things we do here, instead of focusing on the Camino and the spiritual journey it actually is. Before you go, agree on what kind of accommodation you will stay in and what you will budget for meals. Do you all want to stay in the smart, up-market, comfortable albergues and eat out every night or do you want to try out the small, basic refuges where communal cook-ups and sing-a-longs are tradition? If you are planning to walk with a group there are a few things you can do to minimise the dependence on each other and to ensure the camaraderie is retained. Ensure that each group member is involved in the planning, the organisation and the daily routine of the walk. Don t let anyone say, Just tell me where to go and I ll follow you. Unless you want to be a tour guide, this is not acceptable and they could blame you if they don t enjoy the experience. Make copies of your guide book or maps and share them equally otherwiseone person will be left carrying the load and everyone will come to depend on that person for guidance. With three, four or more people all walking together with different fitness levels and different ideas on when to start each day, how far to walk, how fast or slow, it will be difficult to satisfy everybody s aspirations. Before you go, come to some agreement about the distance you will be walking each day. Bear in mind that there will be slow walkers, fast walkers and speed walkers. You can t expect people to change their pace to suit each person in the group. You should agree that if one wants to walk ahead they can and if another wants to dawdle along, she won t mind always being at the back, as long as you all meet up at the same place at the end. Most refuges work on a first come first served basis and they can fill up quickly. If two or three arrive first they might get a bed but the rest of the group might not. What will you do in a case like this? Some pilgrim refuges only have 20 beds (or less) and these do not accept groups of five people or more. You might have to find alternate accommodation in hotels or inns. Is everyone prepared for the extra expense of staying in hotels? Agree beforehand on what to do if one person is injured or falls ill. Is it going to be one-forall and all-for-one or do you agree that the injured person catches a bus ahead and waits for everyone else to catch up or even goes home alone. Ditto if someone is ill:let them go ahead a couple of days and meet up with the group later at a pre-arranged village or town; or will everybody stay together and have a rest day until the ill person is feeling better? Now this might sound a bit like Girl Guides or Boy Scouts but with a large group it will help to plan on having a new group leader each day so that you don t have one bossy boots doing all the organising and leading! The role of the group leader is to ensure that everyone is up on time, that they have all their belongings (check for walking poles, hats, etc.) and that everyone is clear on where they are heading that day. The leader is the sweeper for the day and should stay at the back, walking with the slowest person all day and making sure no one is left behind. The following day, she can be in the front and the new leader goes to the back. If you have 10 people in your group and are walking for 30 days, each person will be leader only three times so it s not a hardship. Have a group meeting each evening (over dinner is good) to share experiences and discuss plans for the following day. Perhaps you are planning a shorter day and can all get up half an hour later, or a longer day and need to be up earlier. If you have pre-determined wake-up times, you won t have to resent the lazy-bones who sleeps in late and keeps everyone waiting. Agree to take it in turns to go shopping for provisions for the evening meal. Many refuges have kitchens and it will be a fraction of the cost if you buy pasta or rice, vegetables and salad ingredients and make your own meals. TIP: With a bit of preparation and planning, walking with a group can be a wonderful experience but be prepared for the odd break away. Budget The $ question! How much should I budget for walking the Camino? Overall costs (excluding hiking equipment like backpack, boots and walking gear) will include air flights, visas, any internal travel, costs on trains, buses or taxi, accommodation, food and beverages, using pay Internet, visiting museums, cathedrals and exhibitions and purchasing souvenirs for family and friends. Daily expenses Costs will differ for different pilgrims. * Are you a poverty stricken student or a middle-of-the-road traveller? * Are you an affluent traveller? * Are you a budget traveller? Pilgrims who need to watch every cent can do the Camino on a daily budget of less than 20. * This will mean staying in the donativo albergues and giving a small donation of about 3 (you are expected to give a donation).

44 * Not eating in restaurants or café-bars, buying wine, beer or cold drinks in supermercados or markets instead. * Preparing your own food in the albergues or eating mainly bread and pasta for a month. * Not paying to visit museums or other monuments (there are many places that give a pilgrim discount when you produce your credencial). If you don t want to stay in the pilgrim hostels, prefer to eat in restaurants, and can afford hotels, visits to the museums and Cathedrals, your pilgrimage could cost about 100 a day. Approximate daily costs: 3 for breakfast; 5 10 for lunch; for dinner; for a hotel room; plus extras such as wine, beers, cold drinks, sweets, museums, etc. Most Menu del Peregrinos include a first and second course, a dessert, bread, water and wine. If you don t want garlic soup, chicken and fries, or a thin slice of beef steak and fries, it will be cheaper to eat from the a la carte menu. A Menu del Dia will offer more variety on the courses. An average restaurant per person bill is 12. A glass of beer or wine at a bar is 1.50; a tapa is 2; a good lunch (Menu del Dia) is Pan (bread) is often free but some places will put it on the table and then charge you for it if you eat it! See Appendix 5 for general costs. If you are a middle-of-the-road traveller watching your budget, you will need to decide on these questions: * Will you be camping, staying in refuges or in hotels? * Will you be walking alone or with friends? (If you spend an occasional night in a hotel or fonda [inn] it is cheaper to share a room.) * Will you eat in restaurants or be cooking your own food? * If you intend staying in the refuges and eating frugally, there is a way to estimate daily costs whilst walking in Spain using the Camino budget calculator Camino budget calculator This simple calculator has been designed so that you can get an idea of costs involved whilst walking the Camino from any town to Santiago. It is based on an average price of 6 per night in the albergues (prices vary widely by region and between private and public shelters). Daily expenditure includes the cost of breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks: the cost of washing and drying clothes in some shelters, and any costs that may arise from a visit to monuments, etc. They estimate an average cost of 30 a day. The site calculates that you will need approximately 1.2 for every 1 km walked. Caminodesantiago.consumer.es/calculadora/ For example: Roncesvalles to Santiago: 1.2 x 750 km = 900 León to Santiago: 1.2 x 312 km = 375 Some costs in Spain Refuges average 6.5 per night Breakfast ± 3 (bocadillo ± 4) Menu del Peregrino 7 10 Beds in albergues From 5 to about 10 in an upmarket albergue Beds in a hotel per room Lunch or dinner A few café-bar-cum-restaurants have three different prices on their menu TIP: The Platos Combinados a plate with a variety of foods, usually fries, hamburger, eggs etc. might be even cheaper than the three course menus, especially if you have grown tired of the same soup, same meat and chips, same desserts served in every town! Some costs in France Costs on the routes through France can be almost double that of walking in Spain. This is due mainly to the cost of accommodation. There are fewer pilgrim refuges in France and your lodging will be in Youth Hostels, Gités, pensions, Chambre d Hotel, etc. Some hotel chains offer cheap accommodation e.g. Formule 1 or Logis. Where you might pay an average of 6 for a pilgrim refuge and for a hotel in Spain you can expect to pay between 15 and 60 a night for a bed in France. Gités cost from ($15 22) per night, shared occupancy with communal bath. B&Bs cost ($45 90) per night, but are not available everywhere. If you are staying in gités, bring your own towel and a sleeping sack. Blankets and pillows are provided. Meals: Many gités and some B&Bs offer evening meals for an additional Most gités have kitchens where you can cook. Many gités offer breakfast, which is often included in the price. It is cheaper to eat at the bar than at an outside table. You could pay extra to eat at an inside table and a further to eat at a table on the terrace outside. Menu del Peregrino or Menu del Dia: 9 15

45 How to take your money Cash credit card travel money card Many small café-bars, grocery shops, markets, small hostals and all albergues do not accept credit cards so you will need sufficient cash available to pay for these. It is obviously not wise to carry too much cash, but even though most villages and towns have hole-in-the-wall cash dispensers, it is preferable not to make too many withdrawals. For a 30-day hike, spending 30 per day = 900. You could take 500 in cash, have 500 in a travel money card and have money available in a credit card. Cash Keep large denomination notes in a money belt and small denomination notes and coins in a wallet which you can attach to a waist bag with a lanyard. This means that you can t leave it on a counter or forget it somewhere. The Spanish 5 cent coin has a picture of the Santiago Cathedral on the back. Keep a nice shiny one as a memento of your visit to Santiago de Compostela. A travel money card The Visa or MasterCard travel card has the security of travelers checks and the convenience of a Debit card designed especially for travellers. ( It is a prepaid Visa card, which means you can spend up to the value placed on the card anywhere Visa debit cards are accepted. You can shop in stores, online, over the phone and by mail order. You can get cash at ATMs worldwide. ATM functionality varies among financial institutions and countries. Each time you make a purchase, the amount of that purchase is automatically deducted from the card. To get cash at an ATM you should first follow any on-screen directions. If asked which account to access, try selecting Savings, and if that does not work, use credit. In Spain one is usually allowed 300 per bank. TIP: You cannot use the card to hire a car as it is not personalised (it does not have your name on it) but most car hire companies will be happy for you to make your final payment with the card when you return it. Credit card You can use your credit card to pay for hotels, to book transport, pay for meals in restaurants and to withdraw cash. Credit cards incur charges that the travel money debit card does not so try to use your cash or withdraw money from your travel money card rather than your credit card. Things to know If you don t get complimentary cover with your credit card, take out travel insurance. Make copies of all your documents as well as a list of passwords you might need for online anking, forums, etc. them to yourself. If you need them you can log on and print them. Money: Small café-bars, village shops, side-of-the-road sellers don t accept credit cards. ATMs work well in most large towns and cities. Travellers cheques can be a problem for small banks that do not have foreign exchange so take cash, cash passport and credit card. Memorise your PIN or write it out somewhere in code. You can buy a credencial from your CSJ before you go. The various countries credencials are accepted in France and Spain. You can also get them from most refuges and some cathedrals. Posting baggage ahead If you have extra luggage to continue your holiday after walking the Camino, or you find that you have packed too much stuff, you can post packages up to 20 kg ahead to yourself to any post office (Correos) in Spain and they will keep it for two weeks.

46 Purchase a box at any post office (they are accustomed to sending on paquete peregrino ). When sending your parcel to a post office address, the box as follows: Jones M. A. Lista de Correos Santiago de Compostela A Coruña Peregrino Write the word Peregrino on the parcel and your expected date of arrival. You will have to show your passport or ID when you collect it so write your name as it appears in your passport. If you are going to be on the Camino for longer than two weeks, you can post it to the Pilgrim Helper who provides a storage facility in Santiago where it will be kept for up to 60 days for a small fee. The name of the facility is Pension Badalada. Tel (+34) Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Ivar Rekve ATT: (name of pilgrim) Travesia de la Universidade 1, Santiago de Compostela La Coruña, Spain Open from Easter until the end of October Mon to Fri: 10am to 2pm and on Saturday and Sunday by arrangement. In the off season, send Ivar an to make arrangements to collect your parcel. ivar.rekve@gmail.com Small box (317 x 215 x 125 mm) 15 for 60 days Medium box (390 x 290 x 190mm) 20 for 60 days Large box (590 x 390 x 390mm) 25 for 60 days Postal addresses in Spain Lista de Correos Pamplona (Navarra) León Puenta la Reina (Navarra) Astorga (León) Logroño (Navarra) Ponferrada (León) Burgos Sarria (Lugo) Santiago de Compostela (A Coruña) Postal addresses in France Poste restante le Puy-en-Velay Cahors St Alban-sur Limagnole Moissac Nasbinals Lectoure Estaing Condom Conques Aire-sur-l Adour Figeac Navarrenx Marcilhac-sur-Célé St Jean-Pied de-port A pilgrim s story Rosina USA In June 1999 my sister-in-law Liz, who looks like, and is, a Saturday Evening Post blonde from Savannah, Georgia, told us that she had just gotten a specially made bicycle from Seattle, outfitted in a suitcase, and that she was on her way to Northern Spain to cycle the Camino de Santiago. She had been talking about it for a while, but I guess none of us in the family really believed her. After all, she did not speak a word of Spanish then, or any language other than English, and is not overly religious as an Episcopalian. When it became clear that she was going everyone in the family became alarmed at the thought of this super-usa looking Southerner cycling by herself, hundreds and hundreds of miles in a Latin country. I gave in to the urgings of all my in-laws, and the repeated pleadings of my son, and agreed to go along, just to be on hand in case of need, linguistic or otherwise. I had never really heard of the Camino before then, or paid any attention if, in fact, I d heard about it. (To me Spain was Andalucía... period.) My thought when the family emergency arose was to take a bunch of books, precede Liz from town to town and spend my time reading under trees or sipping wine at bars with the locals. We flew to Pamplona where we were going to spend a couple of days to get over jetlag, put the bicycle together, and get set for the (to me) ordeal. We stayed in a charming little hotel called Leyre, and when I asked what the word meant a lovely young woman at the desk told me that the hotel was named after a medieval monastery nearby. Intrigued, I deigned to look into a book that Liz had taken with her and had been raving about, and which I had purposely ignored because I was there against my will so-to-speak. The book was Linda Davidson s superb (and the best of them all in the genre in my view... bar none) The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago. While looking up Leyre, I saw the pictures of San Juan de la Pena which I thought fantastic. I suggested that we get a car and go to visit those monasteries. Leyre was, and is, reputed for its Gregorian vespers which are sung every evening, and we timed the visit accordingly. But, after viewing the impressive museum and the old basement with the many columns, each with a different capital, and made our way to the church, there was an air of such profound solemnity and intense emotional involvement in the ceremony that it was evident that something very deep and significant was going on. It turned out that the monks were observing the anniversary of the beheading of seven of their brethren in a small town at the foot of the Atlas Mountains in Algiers in They read the letters which each beheaded monk had written before being killed. The monks had had every opportunity to leave the country when it became evident that their lives were threatened, and they refused to do so because such action would not have done honour to the example set by Christ. Indeed, their abbot himself went there to try to persuade them to leave and failed. The monks ranged in age from 22 to 84 years, and they had maintained a school and a hospital in that area for decades. They were beheaded in front of each other. Their heart-rending letters explained their reasons and feelings. After the ceremony I was distraught, stunned and in pain. I had never heard of those beheadings, and while I had heard that some nuns and other Christians had been killed in Algeria, I had never given a second thought to what they may or may not have felt or thought; I thought such killings were mere acts of war... When I first heard, and then read, the letters of the seven monks a storm of shame, and confusion, raged within me. I felt fake as a Christian... merely going to Mass and celebrating Christmas and Easter. I felt hypocritical, selfish, weak and superficial and unworthy of calling myself a Christian, nor addressing anyone as such. In total confusion, and with my self-esteem and identity evaporating from under my feet, I did not know how to deal with myself, and although I went to confession and the priest tried to calm me down I couldn t absolve

47 myself of my spiritual sloth. I cried and cried, couldn t sleep or eat, and. hardly spoke, but I accompanied Liz to SJPP for the beginning of her pilgrimage, and, still in turmoil, while there, almost mindlessly, I bought a pair of boots, a backpack, a walking stick, and began to climb. And then I just walked, and walked, all the way to Santiago. It seemed about the only thing that felt right to do. That is how the Camino transformed me... nay... how it turned me inside out...ps: While I still feel hypocritical, sometimes, as I call myself a Catholic, I do try to catch the instances on time and mend my ways. That walking stick that I bought in SJPP hangs on the wall in my bedroom; copies of the monks letters are in a drawer of my night table, and I read them from time to time. And, of course, the Camino, and thoughts of the Camino, not only have enlarged and enriched my existence, but have often illuminated my conscience as well. I hope it will be so until the end of my days. Part Two Chapter 6 Gearing up You ve chosen the time to go, chosen a route and now you have to start collecting your gear. The hiking gear you choose must be suitable for the hike you are planning to do season, length of time away and so on. Sleeping bags or sleeping bag liners are always required in the pilgrim hostels. As you will be packing as little as possible, it is important that what you buy is comfortable and suitable for a long distance hike. In this chapter Backpacks Sleeping bags Anti bed-bug sheets Boots or shoes Hiking in winter Walking poles

48 Backpacks Most Camino pilgrims only need a small capacity pack to carry their clothing, medication and toiletries. Unless you are planning on camping along the way you do not need a heavy duty, steel-framed or mountain-type backpack. If you intend sending your backpack ahead you could manage with a day-pack whilst walking but ensure that it is comfortable and secure. Ultra-light: There are many backpacking websites that use the words ultra-light and ultra-lite when describing backpacks. But to qualify as an ultra-light backpack, we have only included packs that weigh 1 kg or 2.2 lbs and under because we don t consider anything over 1 kg or 2.2 lbs as being ultra-light! New generation backpacks are made of ultra-lightweight, rip-stop fabrics (like the Gossamer Gear Murmer) and have features like foam backing for comfort and rigidity, hip belts that can be stuffed with socks or towels, and are stripped of extraneous extras like ice-pole hooks, ski fittings, etc. Some people say that weight doesn t matter that comfort is the most important thing and that if you have a pack with a good, strong padded waist belt that takes all the weight on your hips you ll be fine. That is okay for big, strong thing and that if you have a pack with a good, strong padded waist belt that takes all the weight on your hips you ll be fine. That is okay for big, strong people who can carry heavy weights on their hips. It makes a huge difference if you are a small person, 5 3 or 160 cm tall, and weigh around 55 kg or 121 lbs. That person will find it difficult to carry heavy weights on hips or back. Some people have back problems or other reasons why they can t carry heavy packs and this makes the weight of the pack itself an important factor. When you find the right pack it will become a part of your body and after a few days of carrying it, you won t even know that it is there like a snail s shell! It will be your best friend on the journey and you will need to feel really comfortable with it. Some ultra-light backpacks Gossamer Gear Nobody beats the Gossamer Gear range for ultra-light packs. The Murmur is for loads of 9 kg (20 lbs) or less and for trips of miles or up to 50 trail days. This is a one-size-fits-most pack and weighs in at a paltry 212 g (7.5 oz). The Murmur has side completes, side compression straps, a pad holder complete, an adjustable sternum strap and a minimal hydration bladder shelf. The Gossamer Gear Gorilla is a sturdier pack that comes in three sizes that all weigh under 700g. Small: 22.7 oz (644 g); Medium: 23.2 oz (658 g); Large: 24.2 oz (686 g). Terra Nova Comfort is important, but weight is a top priority and most hikers would be happy with a 600g OMM 32 litre ultra-light pack that holds all their clothing, toiletries, papers, sandals and has space for extra food when necessary. Fully packed the OMM should not weigh more than 6 kg. Obviously, if you walk in winter you will need more clothes probably heavier too so you might need a larger capacity backpack, but you can still choose a lightweight model rather than a heavier pack. Find a pack that fits really well Some packs have models for men and for women. Women s packs are generally lighter, smaller and come in great colours! A good fit is essential. Packs come in different torso lengths and if you re buying online, measure the length of your torso from the base of your neck to the end of the spine (level with your hip bones). Check all the specs carefully before hitting the Buy Now button. Many websites will give you the sizes S, M, L, XL as well as the torso length of their packs. Most specs for ultra-light packs will also give recommended maximum weight to carry. If you intend carrying 12 kg don t buy a pack that recommends a max of 9 kg. Read the reviews, check out other websites that test backpacks to ascertain the comfort ratings. As some packs don t include the weight in the specs, take a digital scale with you when you go shopping so that you can weigh the pack before you buy. Call or the online manufacturer to ascertain the gross weight of the pack before buying. They might advertise the pack as Ultra Lite when, in fact, it weighs almost 2 kg empty. Packs with inner frames and those that offer back ventilation will weigh more than most ultra-light packs. The Laser isn t bad at 526 g (476 g without the foam back pad). It sports a full length water resistant zip, hip storage, chest strap with whistle, side compression and multiple gear attachment points and loops. What it lacks is extra mesh compartments and a top complete which are always useful. Granite Gear The Virga weighs 540 g but is very basic, has very few completes and no lid. The Vapor Trail and Vapor KI each weigh 1 kg.

49 OMM (Original Mountain Marathon) The Classic OMM 32 litre has a lean weight of 575 g when the ski pole loops and extra cords are removed, and weighs 770 g with all fixtures. This is my pack and I love it! It has a lid complete, large mesh on the front, mesh bottle completes, compression straps, sternum strap, zip completes on the waist belt and two large compartments inside. The lean weight of the OMM 35 litre is 1040 g but strips down to 675 g by removing the Multi Sport Compressor, axe/ski fittings, Duo- Mat and side completes (one time removable without impacting on strength or guarantee). GoLite The 43 litre Golite Jam 2008 weighs 620 g or 1 lb 6 oz. The 36 litre GoLite Peak weighs 745 g or 1 lb 10 oz. The Jam weighs 785 g or 1 lb 11 oz. Osprey Talon and Kestrel from 1.3 kg Deuter womens Futura Pro 34 litre pack 1.6 kg Keep your pack weight down The first thing you ll need is a good digital scale that weighs grams or ounces and articles up to 5 kg or 11 lbs. Take it shopping with you and weigh everything you buy. If one T-shirt weighs less than another, buy the lighter one. Remember every ounce, every gram counts. Start off by weighing your friend (your backpack). Does your pack weigh too much to begin with? 1.5kg to 3kg is too heavy. If you are walking in summer, you won t need a 10 C sleeping bag that weighs over 1 kg (2.2 lbs). Try the 460 g OMM mummy or a 200 g silk sleep liner. And, if you don t want to or can t carry a backpack, try a hiking backpack trolley with special Lowe Alpine The Lowe Alpine Mountain Marathon 32 litre is 760 g. The 32 litre Alpine AirZone ND 32 is just 1 kg or 2.2 lbs. It is one of the few ultra-light packs that has a breathable back maximising airflow and an easy access zippered front complete. ULA - OHM pack 39 litre 640 g. A very basic pack with side completes and top complete. Columbia For those who prefer a pack with a frame, consider the latest light-weight ( g) pack on the market the Columbia Mobex which has a flexible outer frame like a dome tent (called Flex Frame ) and is a comfortable-wearing network of flexible poles that provide featherweight structure (no more dumpy pack!) and spring back to life when crushed. Wilsa-Sport Raid 20 litre 400 g Raid 38 litre 650 g Bariloche 20 litre 600 g Bariloche 35 litre 700 g Bariloche 50 litre 800 g Other packs that have been recommended by pilgrims but didn t make our list of ultra-light packs because they are all over 1 kg include: Circuit by ULA Just over the 1 kg but with good features and up to 42 litre capacity Lower Alpine Hyperlite 1.1 kg and 1.3 kg Gregory Jade 50 from 1.3 kg harness. The Wheelie 111 is highly recommended. The Trackmate upright trolley: Carrix trolley: carrix.ch.tripod.com/ I bought the Carrix as I could no longer carry a backpack. This means that when the going is too steep, or the rocks too big or too loose, I cannot put the sac and Carrix on my back. Accordingly, where the guide book says the Camino stage is unsuitable for cyclists and they should take to the road, so do I, walking on the left towards the approaching traffic. Sleeping bag One of the most frequently asked questions about equipment for the Camino is, Do I need a sleeping bag on the Camino? The answer is YES. Even though you will be sleeping indoors in a bed or bunk-bed, if you are planning on staying in the pilgrim shelters you will need either a sleeping bag or a sleeping bag liner. Most pilgrim hostal owners insist that you have a sack of some description. They don t appreciate having hot, sweaty bodies lying directly on their mattresses and you won t want to sleep on a mattress that thousands of hot, sweaty bodies have slept on, especially as many don t even have a mattress cover. Some shelters don t have blankets and even if they do, you don t really want to wrap yourself up

50 in a blanket that has been used by a million hot, sweaty bodies that season! Albergues and monasteries in high places can be chilly at night so you will need a sleeping bag for colder times of the year, but a sleeping bag liner will suffice for the warm, summer months. Choosing your bag At PHDesigns you can design your own sleeping bag. However, most of us will visit an outdoor shop to buy one off the shelf. Sleeping bags come with two different types of fill, down and synthetic fibre. Down is considered superior because it is more efficient with higher warmth to weight ratio than synthetic fillers. It is also much more expensive than synthetic sleeping bags. Down sleeping bags fill spreads more evenly than synthetic fill and they generally last much longer. The main disadvantage is that if they get wet they are almost impossible to dry and become useless so they are not easy to wash if you are walking for 35 straight days in a row. Some people have, or can develop, allergies to goose down, whereas virtually no one is allergic to fibre-fill. If you have multiple allergies, you probably should get a fibre-fill bag. Synthetic bags are cheaper, dry quickly, compact easily and don t cause allergies. Choosing the shape The two main shapes of sleeping bags are mummy and rectangular. Mummy bags are smaller and therefore weigh less; rectangular bags offer more movement and comfort. Mummy bags insulate better rectangular bags can usually be unzipped and opened to form a duvet. If you sleep all night curled up in the foetal position you could get by with a mummy bag but if you sleep like a star-fish, you had better buy the rectangular bag. A new design is the Montbell Hugger which is a mummy shaped bag reviewed by OutsideAway.com The Ultra Light Super Spiral s major tech innovation spiralled baffles (completes with fill) made it the most comfortable and best-functioning bag we tested this year. Because the seams are sewn with elastic thread, the bag literally hugs the 800-fill down insulation to your body at rest, and expands by up to 20 percent when you move around. We could actually sit up and cross our legs inside it a boon for restless sleepers. Another benefit of the diagonal construction is that Choosing the weight If you are going to carry a backpack for weeks or months, you obviously don t want to schlep a sleeping bag that weighs the same or more than your backpack. Most sleeping bags weigh between 500 g and 2 kg. The lighter the better and the more compact the better. However, you might find that the lighter the bag the higher the cost. The German company YETI make three ultra-light sleeping bags and claim that the Yeti Passion One is the lightest sleeping bag in the world at a mere 255 g. But, at it is not the cheapest bag in the world! (that is $400 or 275). Choosing length and width The new YETI ultra-light bags come in M 175 cm; L 190 cm and XL 205cm. Don t buy an extra large sleeping bag just to have more space. Extra space in a sleeping bag is difficult to keep warm. However, if you are sleeping outdoors in winter, a bag that is longer than your body is a good idea because you can keep a hot water bottle in it, as well as fleece and clothing at the bottom of your bag for the next day.

51 the baffles are longer, meaning fewer seams to let heat out. All this in a tiny package: The gossamer-light 12-denier fabric and high-grade down make for a bag that packs to the size of a bread loaf. At $379 it is in the upper range for sleeping bags. Choosing the degree Remember you will sleep indoors, on a bed, with a good chance of blankets being available so don t go for an arctic -30 C bag! All bags come with a temperature rating. Some experts claim that temperature ratings are misleading and inaccurate because everyone has a different comfort level and a different body temperature so they really are just a guide. The rating on the bag is the lowest temperature at which the bag should keep you warm. Unless you are planning to walk in the dead of winter and camp outdoors, you don t need a -10 or even a +10 down sleeping bag on the Camino. Few places on the Camino get colder than 10 C inside. And remember, the warmer the bag, the more fill it contains and the heavier it will be. If you are planning on staying in the pilgrim shelters, all you really need is lightweight slumber bag like your children use when on a sleep over! Choosing the right size You might find the perfect, ultra-light sleeping bag that is so big it takes up all the space in your backpack! Carry on looking. There is a perfect bag out there for you you just have to find it. Sleeping bags liners If you walk in summer, a micro fibre, fleece, polyester, thermolite or silk sleeping bag liner is more than sufficient. Silk is cool in hot weather and warm in cold weather and is luxurious to lie on! For a really luxurious sleep try the toxin free, 100% organic Silk Dream Sack that only weighs 155 g (5.5 oz) and the extra roomy sack at 7 oz (198 g). There are a number of other brands on the market, like Sea to Summit or The Silk Sleeping Bag Company which has bags for tall people, single liners and doubles that weigh from 200 g. Some come with anti-insect properties. Things to know * If it is cold, do a few warm up exercises before you get into the bag. Your body will generate heat which will help to warm the sleeping bag more quickly. * If you wear too many layers of clothing your body heat won t be able to escape and won t raise the temperature of the air inside the bag. * Long underwear or thermals will help keep you warm and will let some body heat escape. * Most of your body heat escapes through your feet and your head, so wear socks and a beanie or night-cap to bed just like grandma and grandpa used to in the olden days! TIP: You can buy everything you need in St Jean Pied de Port including lots of lovely walking poles. They have two stores and both are open 7 days a week. If you want an Altus raincoat, or some other specialist item, Pierre and book the item. You can then collect it when you get to St Jean. directioncompostelle@orange.fr Compostela Direction, 1 Place Floquet or Pilgrim s Boutique, 32 Rue de la Citadelle. www. directioncompostelle.com From lightest 255 g to ± 650 g Yeti Passion 1: A total weight 9 oz (255 g) of which 4 oz down fill $400 Yeti Passion 3: A total weight 16 oz (455 g) of which 11 oz down fill. Yeti Passion 5: A total weight 24 oz (680 g) of which 18 oz down fill. Laser 300 Elite 330 g (11.5 oz) 205 Laser g (18.3 oz) Nunatak Arc Edge 10 oz, 11 oz, 12 oz, g $ Minimum Ultra 345 g (12 oz) 189 Piqolo 395 g (14 oz) 152 Minimus Down 465 g (16 oz) 192 Minimum 400 down 670 g Western Mountaineering Highlite $ Short: 15 oz (425 g) Regular: 16 oz (453 g) Long: 17 oz (482 g) Western Mountaineering Tamarak $ oz (425 g) Ratatosk Gold 16.5 oz 460 g Ratatosk g $179 Marmot Atom 595 g (20 oz) $259 Nunatak Arc Edge 10 oz, 11 oz, 12 oz ( g) $ Nunatak Ghost 16 oz, 18 oz $ Nunatak Arc Specialist 16 oz, 17 oz, 18 oz $ Nunatak Alpinist 595 g (21 oz) $ TIP: Some manufacturers make bags for ladies and for men ladies bags being a little wider at the hip area.

52 Wilsa-Sport Down Unltralite g & g KL g Oxygene 800 g Tarifa 600 g Anti bed-bug sheets TIP: A herbal remedy is to spray the bed with a few drops of a mixture of lavender, tea-tree oil and water. There have been regular outbreaks of bed bugs on most Camino routes in the warmer months. Various chemical sprays are available to control infestations. Diatomaceous earth is a non-toxic powder that can be used on infected mattresses and beds. Mesh sheets that have been impregnated with permethrin (used by the US Army on tents, sleeping bags, etc.) are available from some outdoor stores. Boots or shoes If you intend hiking a few hundred kilometres, one of your most important purchases will be your footwear. There are as many opinions on boots and shoes as there are pilgrims but one thing is certain, heavy, army-type boots are not necessary on the Caminos. Many pilgrims hike in All Terrain walkers or trainers and some even walk in sandals or barefoot. Even if you prefer to hike in boots, lightweight, ankle or mid-height boots are all that you will need. Stick with well-known brands and do some research to get to know the different types of boots available and how they have been rated by consumer research groups. Shopping for boots Shop around, try on different makes and models and buy the best pair of boots or walking shoes that you can afford. Some boots come in sizes for men and women. Try the boots on with the socks that you will be wearing when hiking. Walk around the store, and up and down the stairs. They should feel comfortable right away. Your toes should not touch the front of the boot, and the heel should not slide up and down when you walk. Don t buy a pair of boots with the idea that you can break them in. Before you buy, make sure that you can return them if they are unsuitable. Most boots come with rubber lug soles and deep treads. The deeper the tread, the better the sole will grip the trail. Boots that bear the Vibram seal have superior soles to models that do not have the seal. Everyone has their own opinion on what is the best hiking boot but what really suits one pair of feet might not be the best for you. Most people planning to walk a Camino will carry lightweight backpacks (rarely more than 15 kg or 35 lbs) and will walk day after day for hundreds of kilometres. For this type of lightweight hiking, lightweight boots are best. They should include: Mid-height ankle support Good ventilation if hiking in a dry season Water resistant if hiking in wet season Have high traction soles Columbia Garmont Hi-Tec Keen Lowa Merrell Montrail Nike North Face Timberland Vasque Zamberlan Shopping for boots

53 Types of hiking boots and shoes Leather is still the most popular type of boot with die-hard hikers and mountaineers. However, there are more and more leather/nylon combinations available that are becoming popular. Fabric-and-leather boots are lighter and easier to break in. Waterproof boots that include a Gore- Tex lining to keep water out and also have ventilation to allow perspiration out, have an added advantage. Remember on all Caminos you will encounter rough, muddy paths and steep inclines and declines. You will need boots or shoes that provide stability and ankle protection as well as waterproof properties. * Trainers and low hiking shoes These do not offer ankle support but are usually lightweight and dry quickly. * Mid-cut hiking boots They offer more protection than the low hikers. Have a heavier fabric and a rigid construction to support the ankles. They come well-ventilated and/or water resistant. Rub Vaseline or Vicks on feet to prevent friction from moisture. Double layer socks help to prevent fabric rubbing on skin and thereby prevent blisters. Use a self-adhesive pad as an inner sole to help absorb moisture from sweaty feet. Which kind is best? Wooden staff, bamboo pole, carbon fibre, aluminium, metal, cane Use what s best for you. Only you know. Test a few or borrow someone else s pole or use a ski pole or a broom handle or a pool cue, just to see how it feels. If you decide on having a pole, then make or buy what feels best. Remember, it should feel like an extension of your body. If it feels clumsy, then you will probably be clumsy. If it fits smoothly into your hiking rhythm and even enhances your rhythm, then you ve got a good candidate for your third (and fourth) leg. Two poles or one? It boils down to your preference. Or more specifically, what feels right on the trail. Theoretically, I felt that two poles was the best thing to do. It didn t work for me, at first it just didn t feel right. I couldn t get balanced couldn t get a good rhythm. I didn t have problems on snow with two snow poles, but I couldn t seem to get the same rhythm on the trail. So, for a long time, I used only one aluminium pole, or one wooden staff, when (non-snow) trekking or hiking. Currently, though, I ve gotten more comfortable with two aluminium hiking poles. I ve found it helps my bad back, considerably. What length should the telescopic pole be? Hiking in winter If you are planning a winter Camino you should consider insulated boots which provide warmth and protection. Features should include: Waterproofing with sealed seams for wet conditions Special sealing for snowy conditions Self-cleaning rubber soles If not properly ventilated, waterproof boots can be hot in summer but are a good choice for spring and winter hikes. International sizes Hiking boots come in different sizes that comply with the International Shoe Size standards of the various countries that produce and sell boots. Take a look at an international Shoe Size Chart for shoe and boot sizes to determine which size boot you will need. Hiking boots care and maintenance Take good care of your boots. Scrape away mud from the soles. If they are wet, stuff them with newspaper overnight to soak out the moisture and retain the shape. Leather boots can be cleaned with a wax product like Dubbin to keep them soft and waterproof. Walking poles Walking sticks, hiking poles or trekking sticks some swear by them, others denounce them, most of us can t bear the click-click-clicking the metal tips make on hard surfaces when hiking or walking. Hold the pole upside down under the basket with your forearm in a horizontal position. Adjust +10 cm or so going downhill and -10 cm or so going uphill. Have a look at this short video from Backpackers Gear School on how to adjust your poles. Accessories There are several choices one can make when using ski-pole type hiking poles. Hand grips Hard rubber, hard cork, plastic and foam are all common materials used for pole handles. Plastic is lifeless, cold, hard and slippery. Foam isn t durable enough. Hard rubber and cork seem to mould to the hand well and are very durable. Make sure the finger grips fit your hands well. Some poles come with slight, subtle design differences between right and left hands (e.g.leki Super Makalu) to provide less unnecessary friction against the hands. Hand/wrist straps and how to use them Most hiking/trekking poles come with wrist straps. Several poles (e.g.leki poles) come with a

54 colour coding. The right pole has a red or black dot on top of the hand grip and the left pole has a white or silver dot. The significance is that each pole has a hand strap that has been contoured to best fit each hand. If you use straps, find poles with straps that are made of one-inch nylon webbing that are pre-twisted to provide more comfort to your wrist. Most folks either don t use straps or, if they do, think the straps are just a safetydevice to keep them from losing the poles, should they drop them. Although that may be true, that s not their main function. If you are using poles correctly,your hands won t get tired. The straps help to hold your hand in place on the trekking pole, allowing you to swing the pole using a light grip, thus less hand fatigue. To properly use the wrist strap, follow these simple steps * Put your hand up through the bottom of the strap * Grasp the pole grip, keeping your hand relaxed * Cinch the strap snug, but not tight and with your fingers, guide the pole to where you want to plant it, still very loosely holding it in your hand, then plant it on the ground with all the weight of your body, pack, etc. transferring to the wrist strap via your wrist and arm. Bottom line The appendage stress associated with using poles should not be on your hands and fingers, but on your wrist and arms. Firstly, don t grip the handle too hard, it is the strap that should be doing all the work. Have a relaxed grip that allows the trekking pole to have a natural swinging action. You should use the opposite pole to the leading leg, so right pole, left leg and vice versa. The position of the pole plant should be roughly level with your foot but it s whatever suits you. However, Pacer Poles do not rely on wrist bands but rather on a moulded left and right hand grip. Multi-function walking sticks are equipped with LED flashlight; a compass embedded in the handle, concealed storage space and can be converted to a monopod for photographers. These poles have screws that fit the universal mount on a camera s bottom, stabilising it for shooting in low light or with long lenses. Shock absorbers Some poles (e.g.leki Super Makalu) come with shock absorbers. Springs are integrated into the telescoping shaft joints, such that they absorb some shock otherwise absorbed by your elbow and wrist joints. Most poles don t incorporate them, but you can purchase them separately. Adjustable shafts Some poles have telescoping sections with a screw-down-tight locking mechanism located at the intersection of each pole section. Some poles have three sections they can be reduced more in length so that they are more compact but they cost more. Other poles have two sections and are longer when shortened, but they may weigh a little less, as well as cost less. Then there is the one-section pole which is cheaper but is not very packable. Camera mount The handle on some poles will unscrew to reveal a 1/4 screw that is compatible with most compact point n shoot and zoom cameras. These poles are intended to have camera-monopod capability. Baskets vs non-baskets These are the little upside down cradles at the bottom of the shaft. In non-snow terrain, your typical ski baskets tend to get in the way. They get caught in brush, wedged between rocks and are difficult to use in crossing fast water. Rubber tip vs carbide tip Most aluminium ski-type poles come with the carbide tip. Others (e.g.tracks Sherlock) come with a rubber tip. Rubber tips can slip on wet ground and rock. Some people like the rubber tip because it doesn t sound like fingernails on a blackboard when crossing rock surfaces and it s easier to maintain a smooth hiking rhythm because the rubber tip doesn t create drag by penetrating the ground. Why should you use poles?? * They can help you keep your balance crossing creeks, streams, and rivers; carrying heavy loads, resting en route, on uneven or slippery ground, hiking in muddy conditions; crossing landslides, shale and scree * Reduce stress on knees, ankles and hips * Provides extra power and balance going uphill * Reduces shock on knees going downhill * Takes pressure off back and hips (mainly uphill) Other Uses * Pushing aside spider webs * Self-defence * A wash line in albergues * An exercise pole whilst walking * Picking up fallen objects

55 A pilgrim s story James Shinton The stick On phoning my sister Elizabeth from a call box a couple of miles from the town of Astorga I found a pilgrim s stick which someone had lost. These sticks become like friends to the pilgrim and they carve them with the names of places they ve passed through. The stick I held was well-carved and obviously well-used. I felt so sad for the person who d lost it that I took it with me and asked everyone at the St Javier Hostel in Astorga if they d lost a stick or knew of anyone who had. I took the stick with me to the cathedral and prayed and then set out for Astorga s other hostel to continue the search. On the way, I passed and felt drawn into a beautiful church, St Bartholomew s, and prayed for some time. As I walked out and was looking at some Roman mosaics a young woman ran up to me in tears; here, at last was the owner of the stick; Maria-Carmen from Albacete. She had been in tears all day. I told her that, if anything was, here was proof of the power of prayer. Chapter 7 Dress for success You ve chosen your route, know how to get there and have been shopping for backpacks and sleeping bags, boots and walking poles and now its time to shop for the right clothing. This is a very important part of your preparation. So many people take too much stuff and end up having to post it on to Santiago or donate it to the homeless! In this chapter Clothing Hats Pack covers, jackets and trousers Rain gear Walking in the rain It was just as significant for me to return the stick as it was important for her to have it returned to her. We both celebrated the remarkable reunion in a nearby bar toasting the event with cold refreshing San Miguel beer. Perhaps I was her angel? Clothing These days you are spoiled for choice. To be prepared for most weather conditions choose clothes that are breathable and water resistant/proof. Winter Dressing in layers is better than wearing heavy clothing. You might need thermal or wool under and outer wear, waterproof pants, jacket, wool socks, a woollen hat and gloves, gaiters, rain jackets or a poncho. Avoid cotton if walking in cold weather as it holds moisture and loses its insulating properties. Silk is light and comfortable to wear next to the skin. It has good insulation properties and effectively wicks perspiration away from the body. Ultra-fine merino garments work well in all weather. They wash well, dry quickly and don t absorb perspiration. Brands include Icebreaker, Hedrena and the Norwegian brand Devolds. Polypropylene keeps moisture away, keeping your body dry. As the fabric stretches, you will find that most athletic wear contains Polypropylene. Newer fleece fabrics not only have excellent insulation properties but they also wick moisture away from the skin. Gortex or similar waterproof fabrics are non-breathable and although they are good for wet winter hiking they are not suitable for hot summer hiking.

56 Summer When trekking in summer months, dress in lightweight, wicking fabrics. Most sporting chain stores stock ultra-light underwear, shirts and shorts made of fabrics that wick the sweat away from the body. Shorts and hiking trousers come in many different lightweight fabrics. Those that zip off at the knee are popular. Socks come with double layer (1 000 mile socks) polypropylene, wicking properties, arch support, Achilles protection and other special features. Purchase your clothing a few weeks in advance and wear them in. You don t want to have too tight trousers, shorts that creep, shirts that are too tight around the neck and labels that scratch your skin. When shopping, take your kitchen scale to the store and weigh each item of clothing. You might have a choice of two pairs of shorts, or trousers don t buy on colour preference buy the pair that weighs less. TIP: If you are a short person and the T-shirts are all mid-thigh in length, cut a few inches off the bottom of the shirt. Every gram/ounce counts! Make a list based on experienced pilgrims lists and stick to it no extras! Her summer/autumn pack list Start off by weighing your friend does your pack weigh too much to begin with? 1.5 kg to 3 kg is too heavy. Have a look at ultra-light packs in Chapter 6 and find one that is best for you. Backpack list Lightweight backpack and pack liner Small fabric day pack for shopping and sight seeing Silk sleeping bag liner 2 short sleeved wicking T-shirts 1 long sleeve wicking shirt 2 lightweight shorts 1 lightweight long trouser 1 fleece jacket 1 parachute jacket Altus raincoat/poncho 2 bikini tops 3 panties Lite boots or hiking shoes Sandals Crocs are good 3 pairs walking socks Staff, hat, waist bag, sitting plastic (for picnics) Camping towel and toiletries First Aid items, medication, ear plugs Wash line, 8 pegs and washing soap Plastic plate and cutlery 2 x 500 ml bottles for water or hydration bladder Camping cup, immersion heater Camera, cell phone, spare batteries for charger, spectacles and case Head-lamp, small torch Maps, guide book, note book, credencial, passport, money, dictionary His summer/autumn pack list Backpack, dry bag, sleeping sack, hydration bag. Poncho, gaiters, polypro gloves. Knit cap, Tilley hat, bandana. Long sleeve wicking shirt, travel long sleeve shirt, Lower Alpine short sleeve shirt, poly-prot-shirt. 1 convertible pants. GoLite wind jacket, polypro fleece, breathable jacket. 3 underpants, 2 wool/poly socks, Belt, 2 polypro liner socks. Crocs. Elastic clothes line. Ear plugs, towel, toiletries, washing soaps, first aid and medication Watch, flashlight, whistle, camera/chip, USB card reader, cup, Cell phone/ SIM chip, universal charger, plug converter. Swiss army knife, trekking poles. Pen, Brierley guide, money belt, wallet, passport, debit card. Credencial, drivers license, credit card Phone list, eyeglass case, stuff sacks. Her winter pack list Backpack, sleeping bag, Silk long johns and top (for pyjamas and occasional extra warmth) 2 pairs ultra-fine merino wool single weight slacks, 2 pairs undies 2 long sleeved t-shirts, sleeveless polar fleece shell Goretex 2 layer jacket, goretex waterproof caving gloves, woollen hat Waterproof breathable overpants, 4 pairs Bridgedale wool hiking socks 2 pairs anklet stocking sox, 1 bra, 1 small polyester scarf Reading glasses and lightweight case, head-lamp Polar fleece headband, short gaiters 2 trekking poles, leather hiking boots, trainers Toiletries, hotel sewing kit, twisted elastic travel clothesline Sponge bag (drawstring plastic bag to hold bathroom items) First aid and medication Notebook and ballpoint pen Small digital camera In an inside jacket pocket emergency money one credit card info on bank accounts credit card cancellation info list of credit cards carried travel insurance info flight info Cutlery His winter pack list Backpack, sleeping bag, travel pillow Chargers for ipod, MP3 player, camera, 3G phone Device to download photos from camera to ipod, adaptor plug Swiss army knife, sports watch with alarm, stopwatch, compass Leather hiking boots, running shoes and bag Running socks, goretex 2 layer jacket, goretex waterproof gloves Passports, credencials, credit cards, money, list of flights and accommodation.

57 His summer/autumn pack list Backpack, dry bag, sleeping sack, hydration bag. Poncho, gaiters, polypro gloves. Knit cap, Tilley hat, bandana. Long sleeve wicking shirt, travel long sleeve shirt, Lower Alpine short sleeve shirt, poly-prot-shirt. 1 convertible pants. GoLite wind jacket, polypro fleece, breathable jacket. 3 underpants, 2 wool/poly socks, Belt, 2 polypro liner socks. Crocs. Elastic clothes line. Ear plugs, towel, toiletries, washing soaps, first aid and medication Watch, flashlight, whistle, camera/chip, USB card reader, cup, Cell phone/sim chip, universal charger, plug converter. Swiss army knife, trekking poles. Pen, Brierley guide, money belt, wallet, passport, debit card. Credencial, drivers license, credit card Phone list, eyeglass case, stuff sacks. Her winter pack list Backpack, sleeping bag, Silk long johns and top (for pyjamas and occasional extra warmth) 2 pairs ultra-fine merino wool single weight slacks, 2 pairs undies 2 long sleeved t-shirts, sleeveless polar fleece shell Goretex 2 layer jacket, goretex waterproof caving gloves, woollen hat Waterproof breathable overpants, 4 pairs Bridgedale wool hiking socks 2 pairs anklet stocking sox, 1 bra, 1 small polyester scarf Reading glasses and lightweight case, head-lamp Polar fleece headband, short gaiters 2 trekking poles, leather hiking boots, trainers Toiletries, hotel sewing kit, twisted elastic travel clothesline Sponge bag (drawstring plastic bag to hold bathroom items) First aid and medication Notebook and ballpoint pen Small digital camera In an inside jacket pocket emergency money one credit card info on bank accounts credit card cancellation info list of credit cards carried travel insurance info flight info Cutlery His winter pack list Backpack, sleeping bag, travel pillow Chargers for ipod, MP3 player, camera, 3G phone Device to download photos from camera to ipod, adaptor plug Swiss army knife, sports watch with alarm, stopwatch, compass Leather hiking boots, running shoes and bag Running socks, goretex 2 layer jacket, goretex waterproof gloves Passports, credencials, credit cards, money, list of flights and accommodation. Head-light, glasses and lens cloth, sunglasses and case Medium-size microfibre towel, silk handkerchief Hi-tech clothes: 2 pairs undies 4 pairs Coolmax socks, 2 pairs Coolmax sock liners 1 pair trousers, 1 pair shorts, 2 shirts Polypropylene undershirt and long johns, polar fleece sleeveless shell Waterproof breathable overpants, short gaiters, woollen hat 1 trekking pole, Collapsible 2.5 litre water bottle, Cutlery, John Brierley, guide book. TIP:There are FREE boxes in most albergues filled with stuff that pilgrims have abandoned. If you are short of shampoo, socks, a warm jacket or an extra pair of trousers, you are entitled to rummage through the FREE box. Packing Travel light don t take too much stuff your backpack should not weigh more than 10 15% of your bodyweight a too heavy backpack will spoil your pilgrimage Yeah! Yeah! Yeah! You ll hear this over and over again, at workshops, on forums, in guide books and from experienced pilgrims. But it just doesn t sink in! So many pilgrims take too much stuff and have to post stuff ahead to themselves that the Correos (post office) in Spain has special pilgrim packets and boxes to cope with the numbers sending stuff to Santiago. The most Frequently Asked Questions about clothes are: * How on earth can you travel for 4 6 weeks with only 3 pairs of knickers? * How can you manage for 800 km with only 2 pairs of shorts come on! * 2 T-shirts, 1 long sleeve shirt, 1 warm jacket, a raincoat and no pyjamas? Give me a break! * What do I sleep in? * What do I wear when we go out to a restaurant? * What about when I come out of the showers surely a light sarong can t weigh much, or a flimsy nightdress? * Surely an extra two pairs of lacy panties weigh nothing at all and an extra bra or two can t overload the backpack? * If I take a lightweight, two-in-one trousers that will give me an extra pair of long trousers and a pair of shorts clever me! * If I take these trousers I could slip in a pair of lightweight matching shoes to wear in the evenings. And a little black jacket that weighs nothing. After all, I can t go out with boots, or flipflop sandals. And so on, and so on, and so on. Don t be fooled EVERYTHING WEIGHS SOMETHING (see answers at the end of this section). And, when you add all those somethings up you find that instead of a 6 kg pack, you have a 12 kg pack; and, if you start off with a 12 kg pack before adding water, food and perhaps a guide book your pack will grow to 15 kg, and then you WILL be in trouble. Put your backpack on Weight-Watchers programme. Treat it like an overweight friend who you will have to carry for 800 km. Weigh it empty and weigh EVERYTHING that goes into it.

58 TIP: Buy a good digital scale that weighs grams and ounces and articles up to 5 kg or 11 lbs and take it shopping with you. Weigh everything you buy and if one T-shirt weighs less than another, buy the lighter one: remember every ounce, every gram counts. Compile a wish list of items you would like to take with you. Once you have everything, weigh and record each item. You ll be amazed at how much it all adds up! Pack the backpack with everything you want to take on the trek. Then add two bottles of water (or fill your hydration bladder), one apple or orange, a bar of chocolate and a packet of sweets or biscuits. Unless you are a big, strong body builder, if it weighs more than 10 15% of your bodyweight it is too heavy. Start again! Empty the pack and arrange the contents into three piles. Absolutely essential, would like to take, and not essential. Repack your bag omitting the non-essential items and weigh it again. If it is still too heavy, start again, leaving out the wish list items. It can be done! I know it can, because I ve had to go through this myself from a 12 kg pack in 2002 which nearly crippled me in the first four days, to a 10 kg pack in 2004, down to an 8 kg pack in 2007 and a 6 kg pack in Now I make sure I don t ever carry more than 5 kg before I add the water, food and perhaps a few extra maps, etc. How to choose your hat In the summer months you will need a hat that will protect you from the harmful effects of the sun and keep you cool. A crushable hat, with air venting at the top, is the best choice for summer. A wide brim hat will protect you from the sun and the rain. For windy days a chin strap will help prevent your hat from blowing off. If you prefer a baseball cap, choose one with a wide, stiff peak to keep the sun s rays off your face and, preferably, a neck flap to keep the sun off your neck. For rainy days a waterproof hat is best. In winter you should consider a fleece beanie or even a balaclava that covers your ears and mouth. A buff is very versatile and can be used as a neck scarf, sweat band or balaclava in conjunction with your hiking hat. The new Paclite hats are made of waterproof microfiber fabrics with Coolmax linings. Pack covers, jackets and trousers Backpack covers do not weigh much and can be folded away into a pouch when not in use. Besides the cover, you will also need a poncho or a jacket and waterproof trousers. When deciding on what is best for you, don t forget to take into account the combined weight of a cover, poncho, jacket and trousers as opposed to a hiking raincoat like the Altus atmospheric poncho that covers you and your pack. Most backpacks come with a waterproof cover that stretches over the pack and folds away into a built-in pouch when not in use. If your pack did not have its own cover you can purchase one from any outdoor store that sells backpacks. Answers to questions on previous page * You wear one wash one wear one wash one... day after day after day! * When you wash your clothes you dress in tomorrow s clothing. * If you buy shorts with built in undies you won t need more than 2 extra panties to wear with the long trousers. * You sleep in the clothes you are going to wear the next day. * You wear your boots or sandals to the restaurant like all the other pilgrims do. * You wear the same long trousers and jacket to every restaurant you go to.

59 TIP: Always check waterproof jackets, trousers or raincoats for sealed seams. If the seams are not sealed, they are not waterproof. Raingear Ponchos and raincoats Ponchos They come in all shapes and sizes. Cheap plastic ponchos are not suitable for daily use as they rip and tear easily. Pros: Most have a hood, open sides with press-studs or Velcro fasteners, and are longer at the back than the front to drape over the backpack. They are easy to put on and take off; some models have a variety of other uses and can be used as a bivy-bag, groundsheet, tarpaulin cover and tent. Cons: The better makes are usually quite heavy. They rarely cover the arms or legs and are inclined to billow up in strong winds leaving your lower body exposed to the rain. Hiking raincoat If you have to spend many hours hiking in the rain, a good hiking raincoat such as the Altus Poncho Atmospheric would be a better option. Pros: This rain-poncho is designed for backpacking and has a hood with a peak, long raglan sleeves with Velcro at the wrists. It has air-vents on the chest, a long zipper down the front (so that it can be left open for ventilation) and a special hunch-back design to cover the backpack. The hunch can be folded under and secured with poppers so that it can be worn as a coat when not carrying the backpack. Cons: The raincoat does not have any other function although it could be used as a cover for extra warmth if camping. Available from most outdoor-hiking shops in Spain or online from different lengths ankle or knee high and qualities depending on whether you will be using them for hiking in dry, wet or snow seasons. TIP: When you get to Finisterre you might want to burn the lot just like the medieval pilgrims did! Walking in the rain One thing is certain on any long hike: you will be walking in the sun and in the rain. Chances are it could be cold and wet some days and if the contents of your pack and your rain gear are not waterproofed, everything you possess might end up soaked. With careful planning and packing, walking in the rain can be an invigorating rather than a miserable experience. * Pack valuables into plastic zip-lock bags, even the little things like medicines and cosmetics. * Have a waterproof inner liner to keep all your goods dry. * Make sure that your backpack cover is large enough to wrap around the whole pack. * Gaiters, ankle or knee high, will keep the water out of the top of your shoes. * A rainproof, sweat-proof jacket and over trousers or a good hiking raincoat that covers you and your backpack are essential. * Most rain jackets and ponchos have hoods but a wide-brimmed rain hat will also keep the rain off your face. * If you stop whilst walking, be careful not to put your pack down on a wet patch of ground. Water can easily soak into your pack. * If you have no option but to walk in the rain, change your attitude towards rain and concentrate on the good things. * Be aware of the changing tapestry of the landscape; the deeper colours of the hills and the trees, soaked clean by the rain. Everything is greener, more lush and alive. Crops stand taller, trees no longer droop; rivers and waterfalls change from sedate to spectacular. Do you remember playing in the rain as a child? There was nothing better than skipping and dancing while raindrops spattered on your face making your skin glow and eyelids flutter. And what joy to stomp in the puddles exhilarating! A pilgrim s story Rain suits: There are many excellent rain jackets and over trousers available, some with Gortex or other waterproof properties. Gaiters and spats Gaiters or Spats wrap around the front and back of the shoe or boot providing protection against snow and rain and preventing grasses, seeds and dirt fromgetting into your shoes. They come in Our French Trail Angel Susan Alcorn The French are snooty, I heard often when I was growing up. They ll totally snub you in the shops, I d been told more recently. On the other hand, my hairdresser, who went to Paris each year to attend a hair-style show, had more encouraging words, If you greet the shopkeeper with Bonjour, Madame, you ll be treated well. Another friend, an experienced traveller, added, They are big on such formalities. If you just follow a few rules of etiquette saying good morning, please, and thank you while making the attempt to speak French, you ll do just fine. We wanted to go to France to hike. Ever since my husband Ralph and I had walked Spain s Camino de Santiago in 2001, we d been addicted to long-distance hiking and we were captivated with the idea of seeing the French countryside on foot. Our route would be in south-west France along the Chemin de St-Jacques, or less romantically, the Grande Randonnée 65 (or GR 65). It s

60 one of the four traditional pilgrimage trails that leads into Spain and joins the Camino there. We would begin the trail in the city of Le Puy-en-Velay, on the Massif Central. We were going to hike until our two weeks ran out, which would put us about 150 miles along. In all of our previous travels, on foot, by independent travel, or by tour, we d found that most people go out of their way to be helpful, and I trusted that the French would be. We already had our tickets to Paris where we had a room in the Marais district reserved for two nights. And we had reservations for the TGV (the high-speed train) from Paris to St Etienne and then for a regular train on to Le Puy. What we didn t have was more than a rudimentary grasp of French; our attempts to learn the language in three months of Adult-Ed night-time classes had been pathetic. Nevertheless, in 2004, with our usual combination of curiosity, naïveté and eager anticipation, we flew to Paris. After a couple of days there, thoroughly enjoying many tourist spots (while recovering from jet lag) such as the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Rodin Museum we made our way south to Le Puy, which we found was a beautiful city built upon old Roman ruins and blessed with several World Heritage sites. From Le Puy, we started walking south-west; we ended that year s trip in Figeac. In 2005 we returned to where we had left the trail and walked as far as Aire sur L Adour. And in 2006 we returned to finish the 450-mile route by climbing through the Pyrenees and into Spain. On all three trips, in spite of our language deficits and in spite of the fact that we were from US, wagers of the unpopular war in Iraq, we were greeted with nothing but kindness and hospitality. Several people went out of their way to make our journey easier, but it was on our 2006 trip that we met one of themost endearing and helpful trail angels one of the breed of individuals who provide support and needed services to hikers. It was September and the weather, for the most part, was warm, even hot, but there were a couple of rainy days. One day while we were walking a relatively easy section of the trail (it had originally been a train route), drops began to fall. At first it was easy to ignore them because we were under the canopy of a row of deciduous trees. After a while, however, the water began to drip through the leaves; we pulled out our umbrellas. It began to rain harder; we stopped to put on our rain jackets. We would ve liked to have put on our rain pants, but they were way at the bottom of our packs and we were too lazy to dig them out. We decided to do without until we came to a place where we could more easily put them on. It began to pour and flashes of lightning lit the now-blackened sky. We reached the end of the trail and entered the town where we hoped to have lunch. The lightning and thunder were constant with seemingly no delay between the jagged flashes and the crashing sounds. By the time we reached the centre of town, water was pouring off of our backpacks and jackets. Our hiking pants were soaked (but still warm!). We found a sheltering arcade and dropped our gear onto wrought-iron chairs outside of a bar. The owner opened the door as we hung our wet jackets to drip onto the stone floor. Speaking in French and gesturing us inside, the elderly man led us into the small room. He walked to the corner fireplace, picked up a box of matches and lit the previously laid fire. My feelings went from embarrassment at dripping water all over the floor to gratitude for the man s hospitality. Ralph ordered hot chocolate for both of us and we sat down at the table next to the fire. The host indicated that there was a small hotel nearby; he offered to call ahead for us. When we indicated that we were going to go on, he became concerned. The creases in his forehead deepened; he wasn t certain we understood his offer. In the universal manner, he held his hand to his mouth and ear pantomiming using the telephone. I looked to Ralph how I would have loved to stay in this welcoming town in a warm and dry room. Ralph pushed for continuing on; it was only noon and we would ve had to make up the miles the next day because we had a bus to catch the following day. We had no way to explain to the Frenchman what folly made us press on. We stood to gather our belongings. Merci beaucoup, accompanied by smiles and handshakes, was the best that we could do as we departed. Once again, I was reminded that trail angels can be found worldwide. Luckily, the thunderstorm passed, the rain eased, then stopped leaving us to enjoy the rest of the day s hike. Encountering those who help hikers and experiencing so often the basic kindness of strangers allows me to echo what I have heard many times from other long-distance hikers, it restored my faith in people. Note: Susan Alcorn is the author of Camino Chronicle: Walking to Santiago published by Shepherd Canyon Books. Her website at provides further information on Camino routes in Spain, France and Portugal.

61 Chapter 8 On the trail Now that you have your gear and clothing sorted out, we get down to the nitty-gritty of the Camino trail how to plan your stages, what the paths are like and the different accommodation offered on the Caminos. We also share the pilgrim s daily routine and tell you about pilgrim etiquette, trail etiquette and albergue etiquette what to do and what you should not do on your Camino. (And, we let you in on a few secrets about your fellow pilgrims!) In this chapter Planning your daily stages How to use the site Once connected to the site click on English. Click on the route you are doing Camino de Santiago for the Camino Frances. Click on the circle to the left of the town where you are starting, e.g. Roncevalles Scroll down to the town where you will finish, Santiago, and click on the right circle. You can type your name in the space provided, then click on SEND THIS FORM. In the new page, the mileage between each village and town will be displayed. Click on each place where you would like to stay. If you are planning on walking 20 km per day, click on the town closest to the 20 km distance displayed to the left of the town, e.g. Roncesvalles is ticked. Click on Zubiri 21.8 km will be displayed. Then click on Pamplona and 20.5 km will be displayed. Continue choosing your overnight stops until you have reached Santiago. If you intend staying only in pilgrim shelters, ensure that there is one at each place you choose. R for pilgrim shelter and P for private shelter. Enter the dates of your pilgrimage in the space provided. Click on SEND THIS FORM and the next window will offer you a choice of different documents to download with your daily schedule, profile of the route, etc. After downloading an option, click on the BACK facility on the page to download another option. (If you click on the back option on the search engine you will lose the page.) TIP: Send this form as an itinerary of your walk/cycle when applying for a Visa. The embassy will be very impressed! How long will it take? What are the paths like? Camino rituals and traditions Accommodation Camping Pilgrims daily routine and a typical day Albergue etiquette Pilgrim etiquette Things to know about other pilgrims Planning your daily stages Planning a Camino can be just as much fun as trekking one! The uncertainty and the enormity of what you are planning to do might keep you awake at night, dreaming Camino dreams. You have an idea that you might like to walk an average of 20km or 25 km per day but will there be places for you stay at those distances every day, is it too far, not far enough? Good news! An online daily distance planner for three of the Camino routes the Camino Frances, the Via de la Plata and the Via Podiensis (from Le Puy). It will give you daily and cumulative mileage, profile maps, lists of albergues and alternative accommodation, sunrise, sunset and lunar illumination times. How long will it take? This depends on your fitness and the time you have available for the distance you choose. Should you choose to do 15 km to 20 km per day, it will take you between 40 and 50 days to cover 800 km. Some people factor in a few rest days and others walk much longer distances each day. Most guide books suggest 32 to 34 stages for the Camino Frances or 25 km per day. Remember, this is your Camino and you can take as many days as you like. You don t have to follow the stages in the guide book they are there as a guide only. Sometimes it s better not to follow the stages in a guide book that everyone else is following. Do the Camino your way stop at places in between. On the Camino Frances there is somewhere to stay almost every 10.5 km. And, even if you have a printed out plan, it s not written in stone. You actually get fitter as you walk and you might feel so good on some days that you will exceed your planned distance. I found that I could walk 40 km with ease on the long, flat stretches of the Meseta. Then I would add up the extra kilometres I d accumulated and have a semi-rest day by only walking 8 km or 10 km the following day. What are the paths like? Most of the Camino paths consist of gravel, dirt, rocks, shale, mud, stones, pebbles and grass. This is not a walk in the park or on a sidewalk and there is very little road walking. Some of the routes are more mountainous than others. The Camino Primitivo is shorter than the Camino Frances at 285 km but is one of the most arduous of the Camino routes passing through the Picos de Europa. The Camino Aragones crosses a lunar-like landscape and is one of the more strenuous routes to walk.

62 The Via de la Plata is a raging furnace in summer with no shade and infrequent water stops. The Camino Frances crosses three mountain ranges, riverine valleys and granite hills. You ll trek through vineyards, large tracts of agricultural fields, through woods, forests, hills and mountains. Split into paths, quiet roads and main roads, the 800 km from St Jean to Santiago is comprised of: 505 km paths/tracks km quiet roads mostly through small villages 90.6 km main roads into and out of towns and villages. Camino rituals and traditions Tie a scallop shell to your backpack or hat. Accommodation Where to stay is one of the most frequently asked questions on Camino forums. There is a large variety of accommodation on all Camino routes from camp sites to basic pilgrim shelters with no electricity or running water; charming rural inns to sumptuous 5-star paradores in Spain and chateaux in France. In between are gîtes, hostels, hostales, hotels, fondas, pensions and B&Bs. You can book rooms at hotels and inns yourself by using one of the useful online booking agents like Booking.com - or Hostelworld.com or you can get a tour company to do the bookings for you (see Chapter 17). If you book places ahead you have the choice of having your pack transported ahead as well but not to the traditional church sponsored refuges who do not accept pilgrims with vehicle back-up. If you prefer to walk without any assistance and stay in pilgrim accommodation only, you will have to take pot-luck when you reach an albergue as only the private albergues take advance bookings. A number of transport companies will transfer your luggage from one town to the next (see Chapter 17). This is the symbol of the pilgrim throughout Europe. Available in France and Spain at most tourist shops. Carry a small stone or pebble from home. As you walk you rub all your cares and worries in the stone which you leave at the base of the Cruz de Ferro near Foncebadon in the Irago Mountains. Add a stone to the small cairns you see along the way. Pilgrims also add stones to the top of concrete stele or markers. In the cathedral at Santiago, traditionally pilgrims lay their hand on the centre marble pillar the Tree of Jesse of the Portico del Gloria. At the time of going to press, renovations were underway and this tradition has been halted. It was also tradition to walk to the other side of the pillar and touch your forehead three times to the sculpture of Master Mateo who sculpted the Portico in 1176 in the hopes of attaining some of his genius! In the centre aisle one queues to climb the stairs above the altar to hug an effigy of the saint. Descend into the crypt below the altar to say thanks at the tomb of the saint. Medieval pilgrims burned their clothing on the beach when they reached Finisterre and many modern day pilgrims still burn an item of clothing at The End of the World.

63 Paradores These are high class, luxury hotels in castles, monasteries, palaces and other historic buildings. Guests between 20 and 35 years of age (inclusive) can often stay at participating paradores for under 60 per person per night with buffet breakfast included. During low season, guests 55 years and older can enjoy a 30% discount. The Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos in Santiago was built in 1499 as a pilgrim hospice and hospital. It became a hotel in 1953 and is one of Spain s most sumptuous state run paradores; the cost of the rooms range from 210 to 525 per night. It retains the tradition of providing a free meal to at least ten pilgrims each day. Some paradores offer a limited number of double/twin standard rooms from 60 per night and reduced rates for seniors. Rooms must be booked in advance. Hotels One- to five-star hotels can be found throughout Spain. Most hotels have seasonal price structures and cost will depend on the time of year you travel. The annual Guía oficial de hotels published by the Instituto de Turismo de España is available from most bookstores or contact your local Spanish Tourist Board. Casa rural These include country houses, B&Bs, cottages and apartments. Accommodation ranges from simple and homely to upmarket luxury. houses Posadas A chain of affiliated lodging inns or rustic hotels (not to be confused with fondas), these are usually upmarket country or city inns with good accommodation and meals. Hostales A little downscale from hotels these are graded according to a three-star system. In order to differentiate between tourist and pilgrim, a simple credencial or passport was designed that had to be stamped along the way to prove that the pilgrim was walking, horse riding or cycling the Camino. The Spanish Federation of Hospitaleros Voluntarios (volunteer wardens) trains people to volunteer at the many donativo pilgrim shelters in Spain. Training courses can also be done in the USA, Canada, South Africa and Italy. On the Camino Frances there are beds spread over 242 hostels. The average price for a bunk bed in a hostel is There is, on average, a place with a shelter every 6.3 km. Albergues on Spanish routes Private albergues in Spain France Gîtes Where are they? Pilgrim refuges are found in restored churches, halls, renovated barns, private homes and many other structures. Some are open all year; others only in summer, so always check your guide book before deciding on where to stay. In France pilgrims can also stay in Gîtes or walkers huts. What are they like? Some are modern and upmarket, others are ancient and basic. In Ribadiso do Biaxo also known by pilgrims as Puente Paradiso, there is an award winning albergue in the restored hospice of San Anton on the banks of the Rio Isa which dates from the 14th century. It has modern ablutions, a wash-room for clothes, kitchen, and a bar and restaurant right next door business must be booming! In Léon, one of the most cramped shelters but also one of the few that separates men and women, your hosts are the nuns of the Convento Santa Maria de las Carabjalas with bunk beds in large dormitories and unisex ablutions. You can attend a mass at 20h00 and will have a blessing and breakfast before you leave in the morning. There is no kitchen but you can make tea or coffee in the common room. Are they all huge, noisy? No, some are small only 10 or 12 people like this one at San Bol. (Medieval shelters often housed 12 pilgrims, the number of the apostles.) Others can accommodate 200 people. Hostels Spain has about 200 youth hostels, most of which are members of the Red Española de Albergues Juveniles (REAJ). Albergue del peregrinos The albergues are also known as refugios, refuges, pilgrim shelters and albergues del peregrinos. In 1987, at a meeting of interested Associations in Jaca, it was decided to create special places along the Caminos for pilgrims to sleep overnight. Each region was responsible for motivating church and municipality refuges for pilgrims not for tourists in their area. Found in almost every town and village, they follow a year-old tradition of providing shelter to pilgrims on their way to the tomb of St James.

64 In Manjarin, a donativo albergue (for a donation), 10 people sleep in a small stone barn on mattresses laid out on a wooden platform. There is no running water, proper toilet or electricity. Tomas Martinez Le Paz is a Knight Templar who conducts a Templarios ceremony every morning at 11h00 (when it is 12h00 in Jerusalem). He provides an evening meal cooked on a gas stove and breakfast. He also provides tea or coffee to passing pilgrims throughout the day. In Hospital de San Nicolas, 10 people sleep in the loft of a restored hermitage church. The hospitaleros wash the pilgrims feet following the tradition of Maundy Thursday when Christ washed the feet of his disciples and you have a communal dinner by lamplight. Of the 242 albergues (refuges) on the Caminos, some are modern albergues like university campus digs with all mod-cons including vending machines, cafeteria, bar and computer room for Internet. These are adequate but do not have much atmosphere and offer little opportunity for camaraderie with other pilgrims. Some albergues are supported by the church, some by the local government or municipality; others are owned and run by volunteers from different Confraternities of St James around the world such as the donativo Gaucelmo albergue in Rabanal which is owned and run by the Confraternity of St James in the UK. They also have one at Miraz on the Camino del Norte. There are albergues that are owned by individuals or families who have devoted their lives to providing shelter to pilgrims, such as the refuge at Manjarin, and Ave Fenix at Villafranca del Bierzo which Jesus Jato and his family have been running almost all their lives. Jesus is a healer and will often offer to do Reiki on a hurting pilgrim. What if the albergues are full? Many albergues have spare mattresses and will allow you to sleep on the floor (often more comfortable than on a bunk bed!). Some are only allowed to take a certain number of pilgrims (insurance regulations) and will refer you to an alternate albergue or other accommodation. You might have to call a taxi to get there. In most towns you have the option of staying in accommodations such as small hotels, hostales, fondas (inns) or even up-market paradores. A single room in a small inn can cost from 20 30; hostales from 30 45; hotels from Do they give you meals? Very few albergues offer meals but some in the more remote areas offer a communal evening meal and, perhaps, breakfast of bread, biscuits, tea and coffee. These are either donativo (for a donation) or for a few euros. They include the small albergue at Eunate, Villa Mayor Monjardin, Granón, Tosantos, Arroyo San Bol and Manjarin. Most of the church, municipal and confraternity owned albergues are donativo for a donation. However, from 1 January 2008, all the municipal or church sponsored albergues in the Province of Galicia started levying a charge of 6. (This might be reversed in 2011.) You cannot book a bed ahead at a donativo church, municipal or CSJ owned albergue. These are run on a first come, first served basis. Most of these also don t accept pilgrims with vehicle backup, those who have sent their backpacks on ahead, or who have arrived by bus, train or taxi, and many do not accept large groups usually more than six pilgrims. These albergues also have a pecking order in that walking pilgrims take priority and pilgrims on bicycles often have to wait until evening before being told whether or not they have a bed for the night. Some of the newer albergues offer single and double rooms, rooms for four people in two bunk beds with en suite bathroom, rooms for ten people and dormitories that sleep up to 80 pilgrims. The charges vary from 5 for a general dormitory to 9 for a private room. Many of the privately owned albergues have come together under the umbrella of an organisation called Red de Albergues Camino de Santiago. They publish an annually updated fold-out list of all the albergues along the Caminos, donde el Camino se hace reposo (where the Camino sleeps), with the mileage between villages and towns, and symbols indicating whether the establishment has Internet, a kitchen, laundry facilities, a bar or restaurant, etc. Their Rules of Use are that the albergues are for the exclusive use of pilgrims on foot, bicycle or horseback who have the pilgrims credencial. However, one can reserve beds ahead at many of these albergues and they also provide contact details for pilgrims wanting to send their backpacks on ahead. Sixty per cent of albergues have kitchens although many of these are usually poorly equipped with shortages of pots and pans, crockery and cutlery. Often it is the pilgrim who walks off with the cutlery or crockery! Most albergues have electricity and those that don t, cook on gas stoves and eat by lamplight. What are the beds like? There are very few albergues that have single beds. Villadangos is an exception with beds in one large room and bunks in smaller rooms. Bercianos also has a room with beds, and in Azofra the large modern albergue has two beds per cubicle. Most provide bunk beds in dormitories or rooms that sleep from 10 people to 200 people (there are only a handful that large). None provide linen so sleeping bags or liners are essential. The majority offer blankets and some even provide a pillow. There are a number of albergues where pilgrims sleep on mattresses on the floor (Grañón, Tosantos) but this is often more comfortable than crouching on the bottom bunk or climbing up to a top bunk.

65 What about bathrooms and wash rooms? All but the most basic albergues have showers, basins, toilets and wash tubs for washing clothes. Some modern albergues even provide washing machines and dryers. There are a few traditional albergues that do not have electricity, running water or even toilets (Manjarin, Hospital San Nicholas, Convento San Anton). These almost medieval refuges are often the most atmospheric and spiritual places to stay and offer meals cooked on gas stoves and dinner by lamplight. The newly renovated albergue in Roncesvalles is the first refugio a pilgrim will stay in along the Camino Frances in Spain. It is in a large, modern restored Youth Hostel with bunk beds for over 180 pilgrims in cubicles of 2 bunks. It is necessary to show the Pilgrims Credencial at the entrance; price 10 (2011). In Larrasoana the beds are in the old municipal hall as well as a second building close by that caters for overflow numbers. The ablutions are in a prefabricated hut alongside the building. There are two albergues in Pamplona: Paderborn which is run by the German St Jakob Association; and a large modern albergue in the newly restored church of Maria y Jesus. Many towns and villages offer more than one albergue. In the Middle Ages almost every town and village on the Camino Frances supported at least one pilgrim hospice. Many were small a favourite number was 12 beds that corresponded with the number of apostles. The town with the highest number was Burgos which in the 15th century boasted 32 hospices, and even as pilgrimage numbers declined, still supported 25 into the late 1700s. Astorga had 21, Carrion de los Condes had 14 and at one time there were 7 in Castrojeriz. Even small villages like Obanos and Viana had several pilgrim shelters. Terradillos de los Templarios and neighbouring Moratinos were among the few pueblos that did not provide a hospice for pilgrims. Just as they are today, some hospices were provided by Confraternities, some by the church and some were privately run. Camping France: has addresses to choose from with complete campsite descriptions. FFCC partner. Spain: Wild camping is legal in Spain but with some restrictions. You are not allowed to camp: * In any urban area (these areas are prohibited for military or tourist reasons) * Within 1 km of an official campsite * On tourist beaches * In the Parques Naturales If you are sensible and wild camp close to these areas have some sensitivity to the rules and you can camp almost anywhere in the countryside. It is illegal, however, to make fires so unless you have a camping stove, rather wait until you get to a café-bar for your daily fix of café con leche! There are very few wild camping places on the Camino Frances as the route passes through many private and state-owned farms and vineyards. Many albergues with gardens or free land allow pilgrims to camp on their property, e.g. Rabanal, La Faba, O Cebreiro. Most albergues in the towns and cities don t have gardens or yards for camping but they will usually allow you to use their facilities. You could take a shower; make a meal in the kitchen or just chill out chatting to other pilgrims. Camp sites in Spain s official camping sites are listed as Luxury, 1st, 2nd, 3rd and special category camps. They charge according to High Season and Low Season and most exclude Vat (some give pilgrim discounts). Please check opening times before you go as times can change without notice. Many allow pets so if you are walking with your dog, camping is an alternative to the albergues. St Jean-Pied de-port: Camping de L Arradoy: Tel: /3 to 1/10: 25 Persons 2** Basic campsite. Pets allowed. Camping Municipal: Tel: persons 1* Municipal campsite 200 m from the town gate. Navarra Aurizberri-Espinal: 2nd: 1/4 to 31/10 Urrobi Tel/fax: Persons: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Pets allowed Pamplona: All year Ezcaba 8.5 km from Pamplona: Tel: Swimming pool, restaurant. Mini-market. Hot showers Huesca Puente la Reina gares: 1st: All year Errota-El Molino: Tel: info@campingelmolino.com 7 km south at Mendigorria Navarrete: 1st: 8/1 to 9/12 Tel: Fax: No pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted campingnavarrete@fer.es

66 Estella-Lizarra: 1st: All year persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Lizarra: Tel: Fax: La Rioja Burgos: 1st: 1/4 to 30/9 Fuentes Blanca: Tel/Fax: persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted Castrojeríz: 2nd: 1/5 31/5 1/9 30/9 (1/6 30/8) Camino de Santiago: Tel: Fax: persons: No pets allowed: Cafeteria: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Logroño: 2nd: 9/4 to 30/9 La Playa: Tel/Fax: Pets allowed: Cafeteria: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted Najera: 3rd : 1/4 to 10/9 El Ruedo: Tel: persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted Santo Domingo de la Calzada: Open all year Camping Bánares: Tel: km before Santo Domingo: Full facilities Burgos Burgos: 1st: 1/4 to 30/9 Fuentes Blanca: Tel/Fax: persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted Castrojeríz: 2nd: 1/5 31/5 1/9 30/9 (1/6 30/8) Camino de Santiago: Tel: Fax: campingcastro@eresmas.com 150 persons: No pets allowed: Cafeteria: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Palencia Carrión de los Condes: 2nd: All year Edén: Tel: Hot showers: Cafeteria: Shop: Telephone: Pets allowed. No credit cards. Léon Sahagún: 2nd: All year Municipal Pedro Ponce : Tel: Fax: ponce@campinglacota.com persons: Pets allowed: Post and telephone: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Mansilla de las Mulas: 2nd: 29/6 to 1/9 Esla: Tel: Fax: info@ayto-mansilla.org 168 persons: No pets allowed: Hot showers: Restaurant: Cafeteria: No credit cards.

67 León: 2nd: 1/6 to 25/9 Golpejar de la Sobarriba: Ciudad de León: Tel: Fax: km from León: 141 persons: No pets allowed: Hot showers: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Post and telephone: No credit cards Villadangos del Paramo: 2nd: 14/4 to 28/9 Camino de Santiago: Tel: Pets allowed: Post and telephone: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Hospital de Orbigo: 2nd 1/6 to September Don Suero De Quiñones: Tel: All facilities: June to September. As Cancelas: 2nd: All year; 408 persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Las Sirenas: 2nd: All year Tel: Fax: persons: Pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Santa Catalina de Somoza: 2nd: 15/3 to 15/10 At Santa Colomba de Somoza bear left on Le142 before reaching Santa Catalina persons: Post and telephone: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Minimarket: Hot water showers: Pets allowed: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted Rabanal del Camino: Wild camping possible in a field at Rabanal or the open area just beyond the village: No facilities Galicia O Cebreiro:Wild camping is possible in field at the back of the village. Lugo Sarria: Wild camping possible on the banks of the river access from Pont Riberio. A Corúna Portomarin: Santa Maria Turn right after crossing the bridge and then right again by the panaderia. 1 km down the lane. Arzua: All year. Don Manuel: Turn left 500 m from town centre behind the hotel. Bar, restaurant, pool. San Marcos: Restaurant: Pool: Bar no shop. Santiago de Compostela: Monte do Gozo: 1st: 20/6 to 25/9 Tel: persons: No pets allowed: Restaurant: Cafeteria: Mini-market: Hot water showers: Post & Telephone: Credit cards accepted. Useful websites El Camino en Familia Company that takes families with children on the Camino Maps: For a map of all the camping sites in Spain: elcaminosantiago.com/pdf/map_spain_ Campings.pdf Zoom in to about 400% on the map on page one and look at the green tent icons. You can also look at page two per autonomia for camping locales. To read reviews on the albergues on all the different routes, visit the website: caminodesantiago.consumer.es and click on the route you are planning to do. The pilgrim s daily routine and a typical day Albergues close for most of the day so that volunteers can clean it and get it ready for the daily influx of new pilgrims. Most only open at about 14h00 and you have to leave by 08h00 or 08h30 the next morning. If you arrive at an albergue that is still closed, put your backpack down on the ground in line and wait for the volunteer hospitalero to arrive. (On some routes there is no warden and there will be a sign on the door telling you where to collect the key.) Some hospitaleros ask you to take your boots off before entering the dormitories. You might also be asked to leave your walking sticks in a predetermined place. You usually have to sign in by writing your name, age, nationality, starting place, whether you are walking, cycling, etc. into a register. Your credencial is stamped and you give a donation or pay the required amount (rarely more than 10). You might be shown where the bedrooms and ablutions are, and you might also be told the rules of the house lights out time, time to vacate in the morning, etc. You mark your bed by unrolling your sleeping bag onto it. You leave your backpack next to the bed and go off to shower, wash clothes, find food or sightsee. Shower and bathrooms are usually unisex. Two places on the Camino Frances do not have shower curtains or doors.

68 Most albergues have a curfew 22h00 or 23h00 when lights are switched off and doors are locked. (They open from the inside.) Pilgrims may only stay one night and the only exception might be if you are injured and cannot walk the next day. Pilgrims staying in the albergues are offered free medical treatment for minor injuries such as blisters, tendonitis or pulled muscles. EU members receive free treatment at hospitals. On a typical day you will awake early, or be rudely woken by pilgrims rustling plastic bags, zipping and unzipping sleeping bags or putting the lights on at 04h00! As you have slept in the clothes you ll wear today, all you have to do is put on your boots, roll up your sleeping bag and collect your belongings. You will use your head-torch to find your things and to creep out of the room and into the foyer, living room or kitchen. If you have time you can make yourself a cup of coffee before leaving the albergue but most pilgrims walk for an hour or so before stopping at the first available café-bar for their caffeine fix and something to eat, either a pastry, or a slice of patata tortilla (Spanish omelette). Then you continue walking for another couple of hours until it is time to stop for a light lunch either al fresco on the side of the path or at a café-bar or restaurant. You should arrive at your planned stop after midday or later. If the albergue is not open yet, you can put your backpack outside the door, often in line with others, and wait for the hospitalero to arrive and open the shelter usually from around 13h00. Things to know about other pilgrims Almost every pilgrim refuge is staffed by volunteers for the sole support of pilgrims from all over the world. Refuges are not a right but a privilege. Help to keep the refuge clean and welcoming for the next influx. Donativo does not mean free give a generous donation pilgrims arriving the next day have to be fed on what you give. Some refuges only open in May and close again in November. Don t expect anybody in northern Spain to speak English (or German, Italian, Dutch Swedish, Japanese, etc). It will pay to learn a little Spanish before you go. Ditto French and Portuguese. Sleeping bags or liners are essential. Most refuges have blankets but they insist that pilgrims have their own sacks. In summer a sleep liner will do and a lightweight sleeping bag in winter. Will I find a bed in May, June, July, August, etc.? It is first come, first served. When you reach a refuge you secure a place by placing your pack outside the door. Some refuges only open after 14h00 so you might have a long wait if you get there early. In Galicia some refuges do not accept pilgrims who have walked less than 20 km. The bed closest to the bathroom is the noisiest! The hospitalero will register you and stamp your credencial. You will then find a bed, roll your sleeping bag out onto it to show that it has been claimed, leave your pack on the floor next to it, or at the foot of the bed or bunk, and either have a short rest or have a shower and wash your clothes before having a rest. If you leave the shower for later you might find only cold water as the hot water often runs out. In the afternoon you can visit the town to see the local attractions, find an Internet facility to friends and family and generally hang out with your friends. You can find a supermecado or tienda to buy food to prepare in the albergue kitchen or have dinner at a local café or bar. Hanging out with fellow peregrinos, sharing blister plasters, bread or wine is a special feature of the Camino. Communal meals eaten around the table, sometimes by lamplight, is part of the soul of the Camino and not to be missed. If the hospitalero provides the meal she might include a special blessing and a sing-along. There might be a pilgrim blessing in the local church, a play or even a fiesta in the town. If there is a fiesta, be prepared for a sleepless night as the Spanish know how to party and can continue late into the early hours of the morning! Lights out is usually about 22h30 and the albergue is closed at 23h00. Use your ear plugs if you want a good night s sleep!

69 Only a few refuges offer basic food usually dinner and perhaps a light breakfast. Pilgrim menus are offered in most villages and towns. You can buy food in supermarkets to cook in the refuges. Most refuges have electricity they don t all have kitchens or utensils. A little spiral immersion heater and a camping cup are most useful for making your own tea/ coffee, cup-of-soup, etc. Take eight plastic pegs and a 2 m nylon cord to use as a wash line. This is useful when it rains and you can string it across the bars of the bunk beds to dry wet socks and also when the lines are full. If the clothes don t dry? Take eight large safety pins to pin damp clothing onto the backpack so that it can dry during the day whilst walking. Nobody cares if your underwear flaps on your backpack! Take a shower hook or two large suction hooks to hang clothes in the showers. There are rarely clothes hooks inside (very few outside) and that means no place to hang your dry, dirty or wet clothes and some of the showers don t have doors. If you walk in France take a universal bathplug as well. Many places have baths but don t provide plugs. TIP: Take toilet paper remove the cardboard roll and flatten it. Most albergues run out so be prepared! Don t steal the albergue s toilet paper and please don t litter the Camino carry a plastic bag for used tissue. Albergue etiquette A bed in a church or municipal refuge is a privilege not a right and should be treated as such. Give a generous donation; be gracious and helpful to the hospitalero and other pilgrims. Give your donativo soon after you arrive, so you don t forget later on. Find out what time the doors close and be back in the albergue by then. If you plan to leave early, prepare your things the night before to minimise the racket you ll make when you get up. Rattling plastic liner bags or shining your headlights around the room at 05h00 will not endear you to your companions. Visit the website for up-to-date information on all the albergues on the Spanish Caminos including names and addresses, contact details, number of beds, charges, opening dates and times. Some of them even have a photograph of the albergue. but Don t expect special treatment and you will be pleasantly surprised when it comes your way. If you are able-bodied and have scored a lower bunk, and the place is filling up fast, and an elderly or obviously suffering pilgrim arrives, give him your lower and take the upper. Elderly and infirm pilgrims should always have lower bunks. Younger and more sprightly pilgrims must sometimes give them what is theirs by right. Offer to cook for the group occasionally. It s a great way to meet people and make friends. If you can, always leave some long life food behind for the next pilgrim, say a tin of something or pasta/rice. Label it in some way so people know e.g. por peregrinos. The next person to arrive might do so after a long walk and they might not have been able to buy food en route. Use water sparingly and mop out the shower after using it. Take short showers to save a little water for later arrivals. Share clothesline space. If things are filling up, adjust your laundry so others have some room too. Put phones and alarms on vibrate or turn them off at night, so as to not disturb or wake up our fellow pilgrims. If you MUST make a cell phone call after 21h30 at night, please go outside AWAY from the windows where weary pilgrims are sleeping and try to keep your conversation at a low volume and short. If listening to a personal stereo or mp3 player in bed at night, please turn the volume down so the people near you don t have to listen to it too. If you get up at 05h00 and rush through the next stage to stand in queue for an albergue bed, do not expect the people who arrive later to creep quietly around the place so you can enjoy your siesta. You woke them up this morning. It s their turn to wake you up in the afternoon. If you tend to snore, don t drink a lot of wine in the evening. It makes you reverberate. Don t put your backpack on the bed, it s been put down on the floor, in bars, on the street, in fields, near fountains, etc. Don t prance around the albergue in your skivvies. No matter how buff you think you are, there is such a thing as Too Much Information. Don t leave your litter on the floor. Wash up what you dirty. Clean up after yourself. Share. Be kind and thoughtful. Do unto others as you would have others do unto you. Use just one bunk. The surrounding bunks are not your clothes line. The chair is there for everyone to sit on. It is not yours for pack storage just because you got there first. The space under the bunk generally is shared by both occupants. Save half for the other guy. No maid will wash your dishes, pans, or cutlery. YOU do it. Wear ear plugs so the unavoidable disturbances by others will not drive you to distraction. Don t use alarm clocks that others can hear. Don t steal the toilet paper. TIP: If you have a cold, go to a private room in a hostal for a few days. No one will be happy sleeping in a dorm with Influenza Iris!

70 Pilgrim etiquette Learn the language before you go especially the polite words of greeting, please and thank you. You will be a guest in a foreign land so don t expect them to know your language. The best book available is CAMINO LINGO, English-Spanish Words and Phrases for Pilgrims on el Camino de Santiago You can learn Spanish online Mi Vida Loca on the BBC website is very good. YOU are the foreigner so do not criticise the people, their way of life, their towns, their food, their religion, etc. James A. Michener said: If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home. When leaving or walking through a village very early in the morning, do so quietly, i.e. soft voices, carrying those clicking sticks aloft. Think of tiptoeing by a sleeping host. Do not walk into a café-bar and use the facilities without buying something. Do not handle fresh produce in a shop, get the shop-keeper s attention and simply point at the item, handling produce causes bruising and damaged items. Don t haggle. Prices along the Camino are already rock bottom low. Do NOT pick the farmers crop! Fruit hanging on trees on a verge might be the owner s next bottle of jam or preserve. Don t cross people s yards or assume it s ok to climb fences without permission. Think about how you would react if they did that in YOUR neighbourhood? If you are on a bicycle PLEASE let walking pilgrims know when you come up behind them by ringing a bell or shouting out. They cannot hear you approaching Leave the wild flowers alone, do not pick them. They look better in the field than in your hat. Practice kindness. Share some plaster, food, or water. Offer to help someone over the rocky pass If you see someone in distress, ask if they need to share their troubles. Then, if you can do so, offer help. Be friendly, even when the locals are not. Most are wonderful, but some get weary of the trudging, cranky pilgrims. Give them a break and show them you are appreciative. Be a good ambassador for your country. Things to know about your fellow pilgrims Most people say that the best thing about their Camino experience was the people they met. Some people have met their future partners or have made lifelong friendships. There is a special camaraderie between pilgrims from all nations and everyone is equal. Be prepared to meet all sorts of people, priests and paupers, rocket scientists and people who appear to be off their rockers; born again Christians and New Age gurus. Keep an open mind and you will enjoy and embrace them all. Very few cyclists have bells on their bikes so keep your ears open for cyclists who zoom up behind you on the path. Then there are those who walk in silence. They might smile at you but they have taken a vow and will not talk to you. Smile back and let them move on. Walk at your own pace don t try to keep up with someone else just because you hit it off right away. There will be other amazing pilgrims to walk with who walk at your pace. Take ear plugs a few pairs to drown out the sonorous serenade in the albergues at night! Every pilgrim has a story. You will not find many who walk just for fitness. Remember that no matter how annoying, how loud, how obnoxious, how quiet you perceive someone to be, something brought them to the Camino and they may be seeking something life-changing from it. Don t rush to avoid, take time to stop and help others in need. You will experience pure human kindness on the Camino so when its your turn pay it forward make sure that you do. Don t feel sad if you lose touch with a newly found Camino friend, neither of you will keep the same pace up for long and your paths will cross again and the reunion will be a special one. Leave grand expectations at home and simply allow the Camino to affect you. But, there are also the Pilgrim Fundamentalists: If your backpack is too light and you don t walk extra long distances; if you don t have any blisters, tendonitis or shin splints; if you spend a night or two in a hotel or inn and eat gourmet meals in a restaurant, or if you send your backpack ahead you will be severely judged by a certain type of pilgrim on the Camino. These are the pilgrim Fundamentalists who feel that unless you wear a hairshirt like medieval pilgrims and suffer pain and agony on your pilgrimage you are not a real pilgrim. Take no notice you are bound to meet one or two along the way! A glass bottle will take around 2 million years to decompose. A metal can will take anywhere between years to decompose. A plastic bottle will NEVER decompose. Even a banana peel will take a month. Please, do not litter the Camino leave only footprints.

71 A pilgrim s story Anne I would like to share with you one of the most poignant stories that I have ever heard, while walking the Camino (or anywhere else for that matter). On 14th October, having walked from Cacabelos, we stayed in Trabadelo and noticed that an enterprising Dutch lady had recently opened a bar in the village, offering a choice of menu somewhat more enticing than the usual pilgrim s menu, so we decided to give it a try. At the bar there were two Dutch couples, far better dressed than our weathered, rather scruffy appearance and we made the comment that they were obviously tourists. They also had a van parked outside with Dutch plates and a companies logo on it. Anyway, my husband Adriaan is Dutch so they soon got speaking. What had happened was that the son of one of the couples, having had a series of misfortunes during 2008, and having time on his hands until promise of a new venture in April 2009, decided to walk the Camino. He started from Amsterdam in October 2008 and after km arrived at SJPP in February He left SJPP on, I believe 11th February, direction Roncevalles. The weather was fair, but he got caught in a blizzard, tried to return to SJPP, but didn t make it. He died of hypothermia. After coming to terms with his son s death, the father decided to pick up the Camino from where his son had left off and walk for him to Santiago! His wife travelled in the van with this other Dutch couple (I believe family, because they were all pretty emotional when they told us the story). They were a bit ahead of schedule because they intended to meet up with other members of the family (including the grandchildren) in Sarria on 24th October and then, I guess all walk together for the last stretch, so I imagine that they would have arrived in Santiago about 29th/30th October. Chapter 9 Leave only footprints How to shit in the woods is the title of a serious (but naturally humorous) little book written by Kathleen Meyer, long time environmental activist and conservationist, who called it a lost art that needs to be re-taught. This is especially true of trails like el Camino where up to people can trek the same trail every year. More and more hikers are finding disgusting evidence of human waste and toilet tissues amongst the bottles and paper wrappers that litter the open spaces along the Caminos, especially towards the end of the year. Now we know that you will not be one of those who foul up the Camino but to help you do the right thing, we share information and advice on how to go in the woods. In this chapter When you have to go Human waste disposable products Going in public facilities Feminine Urine Products When you have to go There are villages and towns almost every 10 km on the Camino but, if nature calls before you reach civilisation and you can t hold it, please don t squat behind the nearest bush or bale of hay, leaving evidence of your visit behind you. These scenic spots just off the trail might be the choice for most hikers to have a rest stop or picnic lunch. Human waste Urine Urine has little direct effect on vegetation or soil. In some instances urine may draw wildlife which is attracted to the salts. They can defoliate plants and dig up soil. Urinating on rocks, pine needles, and gravel is less likely to attract wildlife. Diluting urine with water from a water bottle can help minimise negative effects.

72 Faeces Proper disposal of human waste is important to avoid pollution of water sources, avoid the negative implications of someone else finding it, minimise the possibility of spreading disease, and maximise the rate of decomposition. In most locations, burying human faeces in the correct manner is the most effective method to meet these criteria. Besides being unsightly, exposed human waste can breed disease. LeaveNoTrace.org recommends digging Catholes as the most widely accepted method of human waste disposal. Locate a spot for a cathole at least 200 feet (about 70 adult steps) away from water, trails or campsites. Select an inconspicuous site where other people will be unlikely to walk or camp. With a small garden trowel (or your pen-knife or walking pole), dig a hole 6 8 inches (15 20 cm) deep and 4 6 inches (10 15cm) in diameter. (Not deeper than that because organisms live within cm deep and the waste will take much longer to decompose if it is buried too deep in the ground.) These include portable toilets, waste management bags, urine bags and commodes. The cathole should be covered and disguised with natural materials when finished. This is the most widely accepted method of backcountry human waste disposal. The advantages are: they are easy to dig in most areas they are easy to disguise after use they are private they disperse the waste rather than concentrate it (which enhances decomposition) it is usually easy to select an out of the way location where you can be certain no one is going to casually encounter the cathole. Toilet paper Use toilet paper sparingly and use only plain, white, non-perfumed brands. Toilet paper must be disposed of properly. It should either be thoroughly buried in a cathole or placed in plastic bags and carried away. Natural toilet paper has been used for years. When done correctly, this method is as sanitary as regular toilet paper, but without the impact problems. Popular types of natural toilet paper include stones, vegetation like rolled grass or leaves and snow. Obviously, some experimentation is necessary to make this practice work for you, but it is worth a try! Burning toilet paper in a cathole is not generally recommended as this can result in wild fires. Placing toilet paper in plastic bags and packing it out as trash is the best way to Leave No Trace on a crowded trail. If you do not have a trowel, spade or knife to dig a hole to bury your waste then pack it (and the toilet paper) into a plastic bag and carry it away with you. This is not as gross as it sounds and there are many products on the market that enable you to pack-and-carry your business to the next available toilet or disposable bin. Human waste disposable products GottaGo waste bags These are 100% biodegradable and compostable bags made from cornstarch and other earthfriendly ingredients. The ChemiSan application included with each bag helps break down fecal matter quickly into enviro-friendly material. When finished, seal the bag and discard it properly to decompose or bury it. Clean Waste Go Anywhere kits Each kit contains a waste bag, Poopowder gelling/deodorising agent, toilet paper, hand sanitiser and a zip-lock disposable bag. RestStop toilet products Going in public facilities If you have to use a toilet in a town or village bar or restaurant at least buy a coffee or even a take-away drink before using their loo. And don t steal their toilet paper! Can you imagine how quickly the roll disappears if every pilgrim rushes in to use the loo and steals a few metres of paper? Feminine Urine Products The following information is especially for the ladies all male peregrinos can just skip the next few pages! Ladies, if you don t like the idea of squatting behind a bush to pee, or if you have an aversion to public loos, there are some really useful alternatives on the market. Feminine urine directors can enable you to STP (stand to pee) or to sit and pee facing the toilet bowl for women in wheelchairs. We are not going to describe them here or tell you how to use them you can visit the websites of the various makes for more information. We will, however, share with you what other pilgrims have to say about these products. Freshette: This is a device that makes it possible to urinate standing up. Very easy, very quick, very clean and doesn t leak. I have one and have used it for years. I love it because not only can I pee in the bushes with my back to the traffic like guys do... I don t have to sit on nasty toilet seats or squat with aching legs. It s very lightweight. You will only need the Freshette and direction tube. No need for disposal bags. TIP: For peregrinas who don t know how to STP (stand to pee) here is a website that tells you how to stand with your back to the wind and copy the boys!

73 Whiz Freedom: I love the silicone Whizz it is liquid repellent so all I have to do after use is give it a shake and pack it away and wash it when I get to the next bathroom. It fits in my smallest purse and I definitely wouldn t travel without it. SheWee: I bought a Whiz from the website and also a Shewee which sounded similar but which was a lot cheaper and is a slightly different design. I found the latter suited me better and I used it outside for the first time today, on a cold and very windy walk in the mountains. It was wonderful not to have to crouch and perch (I find it harder to stand up again each year) and, in today s weather, it was even more wonderful not to have to expose my nether regions. I shall buy another now as a reserve for if I lose this one. Tampons Proper disposal of tampons requires that they be placed in plastic bags and disposed of. Do not bury them because they don t decompose readily and animals may dig them up. It will take a very hot, intense fire to burn them completely. A pilgrim s story Annie Santiago While in Seville I bought a beautiful decorated fan from a gypsy woman for only 3. The fan was very useful, and many people, both tourist and local, were seen using a fan during the heat wave. I thought I d use it while there, and then take it home to Emma, my eldest granddaughter, with the story that this is the fan Grandma used in Spain. I used it the two days we were there. Then the morning we left for Italica, I was getting ready to leave the hotel and had to use the toilet suddenly. I had the fan in the back pocket of my travelling pants. I enjoyed my lovely BM, and then got up to flush the toilet, and saw, in HORROR, that my beautiful painted fan was swimming in the toilet, UNDER the BM!!! Using a plastic bag as a glove, I fished it out, rinsed it off, and disposed of it, saddened at my bad luck and at the same time laughing at my stupidity. I soon forgot the fan as I enjoyed the sights in Italica. Then came the long walk to Guillena. As Joe and I approached the village, the way-marking was confusing... do we go RIGHT or do we go LEFT? It was extremely hot. We were out of water and our main goal was finding something to drink. We were unfortunately approaching the village during the siesta hours when EVERY single place is locked up tight from 14h00 until 17h00. On a gut feeling, I told Joe, Let s go THIS way. It was too hot for him to argue. A kilometre later we stumbled into a square with a fountain. But... it was dry! As we lamented our poor luck, two local gentlemen passed by, and seeing our dilemma, showed us how to open a metal door on the side of the fountain, turn a screw, and voila! WATER! We were dunking our heads in the lukewarm water when I heard a voice, Perigrinos! Perigrinos! I looked to see where the voice was coming from and saw a hand sticking out from between the bars of a window across the narrow lane. Walking to the window, the hand retreated, then quickly returned, holding a frosty 1.5 litre bottle of COLD WATER!!! The lady asked us, Quieres agua friä? Would you like cold water? Would we EVER! We accepted with gusto, drinking down the entire bottle. She then insisted on giving us another one to carry along with us.blessing her, and thanking her profusely, I gave her one of the St James Chaplets I had made and brought along for just such occasions. She told me to wait, then returned and handed me a gift. It was a lovely painted fan! The Camino is indeed magic and provides all our needs!

74 Part Three Chapter 10 Cycling There are many benefits to cycling a Camino instead of walking especially for people who cannot carry backpacks or whose knees or hips don t allow them to hike long distances. It also takes half the time to cover the same distance. Cyclists can easily detour from the Camino path to nearby places of interest and leave the marked routes through cities to explore them more easily than walking pilgrims can. The different routes France The route from Le Puy-en-Velay is passable by bike but between Le Puy and Cahors there are sections that are not suitable for bikes. From Parks Aubrac and between the city and Nasbinals Aubrac paths have been developed for hikers but not cyclists. The Vézelay Route. This route is more accessible for cyclists but has a lot of road cycling. The Arles Route. This is a very difficult trail for bikes, especially the section between Montpellier and Castres. The Tours route (from Paris). This is a very easy, flat route until one reaches the southern hills and approaches the Pyrenees. Some cyclists feel that this route doesn t present any challenge! Spain Most of the pilgrim routes in Spain have been constructed for walkers rather than cyclists. There are guide books for cycling the main routes in Spain the Camino Frances, Camino del Norte and the Via de la Plata. See below for a list of guides, maps, blogs and other interesting websites. Which bike is best As most of Camino hiking paths are on cross country trails, the majority of cyclists use mountain bikes or front suspension touring bikes. Full suspension mountain bikes are definitely not recommended as they are not suitable for carrying a heavy load on the back wheel. Low gears with MTB tyres are recommended although a good compromise would be tyres like the Continental Travel-Contact that are smooth on top for tar cycling and have knobs on the edges for the off-road stretches. If you intend riding mostly on roads, a road bike will suffice. I found that cycling afforded me freedom that the hikers did not have. I could detour 5 km to a castle and back without it affecting my itinerary. I could also cycle through every street in every town or city and stop off at every place that looked interesting, which is not feasible on foot. Riaan van Zyl, Paris to Finisterre, 2008 In this chapter The different routes Which bike is best Panniers or trailer Bicycle kit and spares Training Travelling with your bike Bike rental Road or off-road Guides, maps, computers Cycling blogs and websites Mountain bikes Entry-level mountain bikes are made for dirt roads, easy-to-moderate level trails and tar road or pavement riding. A touring bike does not have to be high spec like those used for mountain biking. The higher cost goes into lower weight (which when touring is not such high priority) and the groupset (gears). The entry level groupsets are heavier but also tougher than the higher level groupsets and can take quite a bit of punishment and be repaired at any Tienda de bicicletas. I used a 250 Scott Aspect 70 and did not even suffer a puncture over 2500 km. Riaan van Zyl Tyres The correct tyres on a bike are essential in ensuring stability and traction. Make sure the tyres are inflated to the recommended pressure on the sidewall to ensure they re at their best. Don t be afraid to inflate them to the lower limit as a slightly softer tyre offers more traction and comfort. Pedals Riding with the flat pedals can be problematic. You have no pull-up option when pedalling and there is a chance that your feet will slip off the pedals over bumps. If you re going to be riding for a week or two we highly recommend spending a bit extra on clip-less pedals and mountain bike shoes.

75 Panniers or trailer The majority of Camino cyclists use front or back panniers instead of backpacks or trailers because they make for better handling. However, the Extrawheel advertised as the world s only bicycle trailer with a large wheel which constitutes a spare wheel, is gaining in popularity. The Extrawheel performs well both on and off-road with no noticeable rolling. Brakes We would recommend V-brakes (there is little that can go wrong and spares available everywhere), but upgrade to wet/dry brake blocks like Shimano Kool Stop. They grip very well in the wet and do not heat up when you go down a pass like normal blocks. With a laden bike it is a consideration. Cycling gear As with hiking pilgrims, fast drying, lightweight clothing is best and don t forget your helmet! (Have a look at Chapter 7 for a packing list and rain gear.) Whichever you choose, keep your weight down, don t use larger than 30 L or 40 L panniers. Choose panniers that offer separate completes for food, guide-books, tools, spares, etc. If you decide on back panniers only, pack light and use a strong rear wheel with at least 32 spokes. Some packs convert from panniers to backpacks complete with straps and waist belts. See the Panpack at Racks Choose a rack that is both solid and lightweight. Nuts and bolts can work loose so check them every day or you could lose your load! A map folder on the handlebars as well as a bag to carry valuables is useful. Gloves: You can ride well without cycling gloves until you crash, which is why we recommend them. In a fall, your hand is often the first body part to hit the ground. If it s naked, you ll end up with painful road rash, which heals very slowly. Conversely, with even skinny thin racing gloves you ll experience virtually no hand damage. Helmet: In Spain, cyclists have to wear a helmet outside urban areas except when going uphill. Glasses: It is advisable to wear glasses to block out the sun and protect your eyes from the wind. Backpack If you decide to include a backpack, consider the new light-weight Mobex which has been aerodynamically designed for cyclists and adventure racers. It is extremely light with an outer frame like a dome tent (called Exo-flex) and a comfortable back panel. The frame means that the bag holds its shape, making it easy to rummage in its depths when you really need to. This is also aided by the full clam shell opening. It is fully waterproof too. Inside it is split into two compartments (handy for keeping wet gear apart from dry) and even has a removable complete/tool kit that we really like. An internal complete is designed for a water bladder and the hip belt features a water bottle holder mounted at 45 for ease of access. Other equipment * Use a camelback for water. * Hardly any bikes have bells but walkers will really appreciate it if you have one to warn them when you are approaching. * Take a garbage bag for your litter and dispose of it in any of the excellent Spanish garbage disposal bins. * A kick stand is useful for when you stop or when you park your bike at a café-bar or hostel. * A handle bar bag, like the Topeak Compact Bag, is very useful too. It clips onto the front of your handle bars to hold your wallet, camera, energy bars and other stuff that you would like to have handy. If you stop somewhere, it unclips and fits around your waist like a moon bag. Bicycle kit and spares On any long trek over difficult terrain you will need to carry spare tyre, tubes, a tyre boot, puncture and repair kit, multi-tools set containing Allen keys, flat-blade screwdriver and screwdriver, tyre levers, chain master link and chain oil, lubricant, pump, free-wheel remover tool, spare spokes, a spoke wrench and a LED type head-lamp. If you find it difficult to find space for everything, you can wrap strong duct tape around your seat post just under the saddle. Spare spokes can be slid into the handle bars. If you hire a bike, spares and tools should be included with the bike hire.

76 Training Just as walking pilgrims need to train for their long trek, unless you are an experienced touring cyclist you ll need to start training by cycling regular long, cross country rides with your panniers filled to the weight you expect to carry. Your bike will handle differently when laden with full panniers. The acceleration and braking will be slower than what you are used to. Try to ride on cross country paths for at least km three times a week and km over weekends. Ride in all weather. On the Camino you will have to ride in blazing heat, strong winds, heavy rain and sometimes even sleet. Paths consist of gravel, rocks, mud, slate and some asphalt roads. Test all your kit saddle, helmet, goggles/glasses, rain gear, shoes and gloves and ensure that everything on your bike is in good working order. Practice taking your pedals off and repairing spokes and chains. There are many cycle repair shops in Spain but you will often be in remote areas and will need to be self-sufficient. Travelling with your bike the safety and comfort of other passengers, being responsible for any damage that might occur on the train or to others. The special rates listed may have limitations according to the date or time of travel, or the route taken. Bus ALSA is the main bus service in Spain. When booking your ticket on ALSA you must indicate that you will be travelling with your bike. The system will automatically add the bike fee of 10 (long distance) to your ticket. Passengers taking a bicycle must be present for boarding with their ticket at least 15 minutes prior to departure. Because of limited space available they will only carry four bikes per bus. They must be packed into a box or bag. If there is no more space for bicycles in the bus, the box offering a bike selection will not be available. Trains in France TGV offers several solutions to go with your bike. You can travel with your bike unassembled for 10. Pack your bike in a bag of maximum size 120 x 90 cm; you can then store it in the Airlines Always check the airline policy on sporting equipment. Most airlines charge if your bike is an extra package over and above your free baggage allowance. Some airlines prefer that you book and pay for the added charges online. Some airlines provide packing boxes at the airport. Read the rules on damage claims. luggage racks located at the ends of cars. Carrying a bike is necessarily accompanied by the assumption of a regular baggage (they will have space for a maximum of 10 bikes). Many TGV trains have space for bicycles. To determine if the service is available on the train you book ask at the time of booking or check at Trains in Spain Renfe is the national rail It is permissible to carry bicycles on all middle distance trains with a specific area for transport. Media R-598 Distance (MD) trains allow three bikes per train. It is necessary to obtain a ticket for carriage (free), plus the passenger ticket. Regional and Regional Express trains allow one bicycle per passenger if space allows and the maximum allowed for each car or train is not exceeded. TRD trains do not allow the transport of bicycles unless they are folded with maximum dimensions of 30 inches wide, 66 inches high and 82 inches long when folded. As a general rule, travellers in a group with more than three bikes have been previously approved by the RENFE- Operator. They must present the authorisation provided for that purpose. Only authorised groups can exceed the maximum limit for each car or train.the owner of the bicycle must be in possession of a valid ticket. The passenger carrying a bicycle must exercise due care to ensure British Airways There is no additional allowance for sporting equipment but it can still be carried free of charge as part of your free checked baggage allowance. If it is in addition to your free checked allowance, you will need to pay extra bag charge. On flights departing from all countries (except the US) you ll pay between 34 and 170 per extra bag. They will accept non-motorised bicycles of all dimensions provided they are packed in a recognised bicycle bag. * bicycle pedals must be removed (or fixed inwards) * handlebars must be fixed sideways * the bicycle must be contained in a protective case or bag * You must reduce the pressure to ± 50% of normal pressure as the luggage compartment is not pressurised and the tyres could burst in the low pressure. The risk is less for mountain/touring bikes than racing bikes where the normal pressure is 8 bars. Iberia Bicycles must have a single seat and no engine. They must be folded and properly packed when checked in, with the handlebars fixed at the sides, the pedals removed and the wheels deflated. At many airports Iberia has available boxes measuring 131 x 72 x 21 cm (in the case of bicycles that exceed those dimensions, bicycles that exceed those dimensions, passengers must provide

77 How to pack your bike their own packaging). The boxes cost 20 per unit. This packaging will be provided at the request of the passenger or upon the instructions of agents in the case of irregularities. (Berlin and Dusseldorf airports are the exceptions.) Iberia reserves the right to refuse the transportation of voluminous sports equipment and to pass this onto Iberia Cargo, applying different conditions and tariffs. Equipment of this kind will always be handled as excess baggage with a fixed rate of 75 per flight, regardless of the destination, payable only at the airport. Various charges, taxes or duties may be applied, in accordance with the legislation of each country. American Airlines They will accept one non-motorised touring or racing bike. Handlebars must be fixed sideways and pedals removed. Or pedals and handlebars must be enclosed in plastic foam or similar material. $100 ( 78) in addition to the applicable checked baggage charge, based on the number of checked bags. Exception: If bicycle and container are less than 62 dimensional inches and under 50 lbs, the bike is charged the applicable baggage charge for the first checked bag. If the bag is 70 lbs and 115 inches, acceptance is conditional on aircraft size and load conditions. Exception: If a bike is less than 62 dimensional inches and 50 lbs, the above conditions do not apply. The box A proper bike bag is best, but expensive so a cardboard bike box from your local bike shop will suffice and in most cases it s free. Just call in advance to make sure you can get one. Write your name and contact info on each side of the box. The parts bag: Skewers, pedals, seat post/saddle and any other small parts go into this bag (a plastic bag works, though a large, padded envelope offers added protection). Pedals: Remove, wrap with bubble wrap and place into the parts bag. Front wheel: Remove the wheel, deflate the tyre until it s soft, and put the skewer into the parts bag; zip-tie the wheel to the non-drive side of your frame. If you have disc brakes, don t let the rotor touch the frame, and put some padding around it if it will hit the side of the cardboard box. Bar/stem: Remove the faceplate and handlebar, then replace the faceplate so that it doesn t get lost. Loosen the top cap, turn the stem around and retighten the top cap. If you do not have a removable faceplate, loosen the top cap and slide the bar/stem off the steerer tube as one piece. To pack, angle the bar around the fork with one end at the fork legs and the other at the head tube. Fork: Attach a fork spacer ask the bike shop about one when you call about the box into the dropouts (or use an old hub). Got discs? Place a spacer (a clean piece of plastic or hard cardboard) between the pads to keep them from moving. Seat/seatpost: Remove the seatpost with the seat attached. Place into the parts bag. Make sure to retighten the binder after you remove your seatpost so it doesn t get lost. Place a piece of marking tape on the seatpost where it is meant to go for your set-up. Otherwise you will have to measure yourself again. Ryanair Sporting equipment including but not limited to bicycles are inherently unsuitable for carriage by airlines operating fast turnarounds such as Ryanair. However, these items may be carried in the hold of the aircraft in addition to your personal checked baggage allowance up to a limit of 20kg per item upon payment of an additional discounted fee per item, per one way flight if booked online. If the item is not booked until arrival at the airport or through a Ryanair call centre the full fee will apply. Any item of sports equipment weighing over 20 kg will be charged for the excess weight at the applicable rate per kilo. Sports Equipment: Fee charged per Item/ Per One Way Flight: A maximum weight of 20 kg per item bikes 30 kg per item Special advice for the carriage of bicycles: The pedals must be removed (or fixed inwards) and the handlebars must be fixed sideways. The bike MUST be contained in a protective box or bag. It is not necessary from a safety perspective to deflate typical tyres found on bikes and wheelchairs for carriage in the hold. However, to eliminate the small risk of them being damaged by bursting, you may wish to deflate the tyres. Due to space limitations on the aircraft, we recommend that all sports equipment is booked online either at the time of booking or via the Manage My Booking section.

78 Rear wheel: Deflate your tyre. Remove the rear wheel only if it is an issue. If you have to remove the rear wheel, you ll also have to remove the rear derailleur (but don t detach the chain or shift cable); protect it with padding and zip-tie it to the chainstay. Put the skewer into the parts bag. Padding: Rags, bubble wrap and foam pipe insulation are the top picks here. Protect all essential parts of the bike (frame, fork, wheels, rear derailleur, between hub ends and box, etc.). Go overboard, both now and when you place the bike in the box it s the easiest way to protect against stupid handling mishaps. Pack it up: Slide your well-padded bike with front wheel zip-tied to the non-drive side into the box. (If you had to remove your rear wheel, pack it after the frame is in the box.) Doublecheck that everything s in your parts bag before sealing it, then tuck it in. Add additional padding so nothing rattles around in the box when you give it a good shake. Things to know Remember to bring along the tools to put your bike back in one piece, as well as packing materials (zip-ties, padding, parts bag, tape) to get it home. Don t pack extra gear in the box. Most airlines have baggage weight restrictions, even for bike boxes; plus, you don t need all the extra stuff banging into your bike. You might need to arrange to have a box available for your return trip. If the bike is damaged notify baggage claims immediately. You have now completed all of the steps necessary to protect your rights, and have begun the set of procedures you will need to follow to make an official claim to the airline. This initial notice of damage will need to be followed by whatever procedure the airline specifies for making a claim usually a second, written notice of damage to be sent within a specified number of days. Info from Bikingsa.co.za Bike rental With airlines charging between per flight to carry your bike it might be cheaper to hire a bike when you get to Portugal or Spain. Most companies deliver the bike to your starting place, complete with panniers, spares and tool kit, and you ride it back to Santiago. Spain, Portugal and France: Anywhere in Spain: Portugal and Spain: Spain: Spain: Jacotrans Road or off-road The hiker s trail is often much more scenic and interesting than the road route. If you have a mountain bike with good tyres you could do most of the route off-road. The paths are generally rough stones, gravel, rocks, shale and dirt. These will prove more difficult in wet weather when you might have to push or carry your bike and then revert to the road when you can. Some steep, downhill sections of the Camino Frances, Aragones, Primitivo and Camino del Norte are dangerous for all but the expert mountain biker. If you have a road bike you will have to stay on the road most of the time. Visit this site for an update of the Spanish road rules for cyclists. Distances Make sure you have packing tape and a marker to write your name and address on the sides of the box. Damages follow the rules Pack your bike exactly as the airline specifies and it will accept liability if it is damaged in transit. Vary even slightly from their instructions and any damage done by their baggage handlers isn t covered. What confuses many travellers is the fee they pay when checking the bike in at the baggage counter. They check the bike in, pay a fee, sign a paper and legitimately believe that they paid and signed for insurance for their bike. They didn t. What they did was pay a shipping fee, and signed a form that says they agree to hold the airline harmless for any negligence on the airline s part. If you don t sign that waiver of liability, the airline will not accept the bike for shipping. Note that each airline will have its own requirements. For some airlines, packing according to instructions in a cardboard box or soft-sided travel case will be sufficient; for other airlines, nothing less than a hard-shell bicycle travel case will do. When you get to the airline baggage check-in counter, you will check your bike in, pay the fee for shipping, and because you properly packed your bike, will NOT be required to sign a liability waiver; the airline will accept liability for negligence when it accepts your bike, and will pay up to the limit stated in the contract if your bike is damaged. The Camino Frances is about 750 km long from Roncesvalles to Santiago. The Camino del Norte from Hendaye to Santiago is about 765 km.

79 The Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago is about 1000 km. Walking pilgrims cover about 5 km per hour and walk on average km per day. Cyclists are able to cover about 12 km per hour and will cycle between km per day. TIP: There is no need to race the Camino and you don t get extra points for racing, so take it easy and enjoy every day. Accommodation Read Chapter 8 for information on accommodation. The only difference for cycling pilgrims is that there is a pecking order which dictates that walkers get beds first and cyclists have to wait until the end of the day before being given a bed in an albergue. This rule applies because it is easier for a cyclist to move on to the next town or village, which might be 10 km away than for a hiker to walk that distance at the end of the day. Some cyclists book their accommodation ahead in private albergues or small pensions rather than risk not finding a bed at the end of a hard ride. Guides, maps, computers Guides The Cycling Pilgrim on the Camino Francés: John Curtin Advice on bicycles, loading, and kit, prepared by cyclists, with information on means of getting bicycles to and from Spain, and some route suggestions for touring bikes away from the walkers route. The Way of St James: Le Puy to Santiago A cyclist s Guide: John Higginson Covers the entire French and Spanish route. A Practical Guide for Pilgrims: The Road to Santiago: Millán Bravo Lozano (Everest). A guide for walkers with a section for cyclists with stages, profiles and route descriptions. 3-in-One: Three Great Bike Trails Camino Frances, Aragones and Via de La Plata. Camino Frances: Road Cycling Guide: In Spanish, but easy to use, the first guide path for cyclists. Mapping at with GPS integration. The guide is aimed at both bikers and beginners who want to avoid the difficult sections. Maps: From the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela Jakobs-Radweg (Bike Path). The total length of the Camino de Santiago bike trail is 914 km. Variations and excursions are not included. Cycle computers Today even the most basic cycle computers are able to tell you your current speed, average speed, distance covered and time on the bike. More hi-tech computers come with cordless or wireless sensors that are reliable and easy to set up; you just clip it on to your bike and off you go. They will not only record your distance travelled, speed, time since you started, but also the altitude and total ascent with an altitude profile over the day s trip. Some also have cadence sensors and heart rate monitors. All of the information gathered can be downloaded to a computer for evaluation. With the new GPS systems you can plan a route in advance, track where you are and evaluate the ride once you get home. Brands include Cateye, Topeak, Mavic and Garmin. Cycle Blogs and websites Forum: For more information and a good place to ask questions of experienced bikers, join the Yahoo Bike forum: Camino Frances: Roscoff (France) to Santiago: layte.com/index.html Uk to Santiago: buchaneers7.wordpress.com/ Via de la Plata: Via Podiensis: French Routes to Spain: vtt.compostelle.pagesperso-orange.fr/accueil.htm General bike webs: General Camino cycle site: homepage.mac.com/verbier7/home.htm Comparing the daily stages in the diaries above it is possible to plan your 8, 10 or 12-day cycling camino. Cycling the Camino Paris to Santiago de Compostela Riaan van Zyl Something that was an issue to me when I wanted to go on my first tour, was what distances could feasibly be covered in a day by bike. I could not find any guide on this anywhere and I just wanted assurance that I was not being over optimistic, as I was a novice who only started cycling over weekends six months before I left for Paris. For instance, was it feasible to cycle from Burgos to Carrion de los Condos and then to Léon in two days? Obviously one has to consider the terrain and it is very difficult to do your planning when you are unsure of these things. Eventually I decided to plan according to my gut feeling and built in a rest day every seven days in case I fell behind schedule. It turned out that I could comfortably cycle 120 km on flatter stages with enough time to stop for lunch, cycle through every small town (up and down every street) and have leisurely breaks for lunch, snacks and chats with the locals. I was even able to (under threat of very heavy rain forecast over the Pyrenees) cycle from Biarritz to St Jean Pied de Portfor lunch, over the pass to Roncesvalles and on to Pamplona (± 150 km) in a single day! One undergoes a paradigm shift of what is possible under such circumstances!

80 There were only two places I found the going difficult. One was over Montes de Oca. The gravel was very loose in places and it was difficult to get traction. The other was through the forest just as you leave Sarria, as it was autumn and there were thick layers of wet leaves on the footpath, making traction impossible in places. However, these were short sections of probably 200 m each and one just has to join the hikers on foot for these sections. Where the Camino runs alongside the tar road, I opted for the latter. I would definitely opt for Continental TravelContact tyres again for any similar route. I want to tell you about my experience with flying with my bike. When I left South Africa I did everything according to the book. My bike was dismantled, wrapped in bubble wrap and packed in a cycle box. When I unpacked my bike in Paris, the carrier was badly bent. These things are very lightweight aluminium, but incredibly strong. I knew that in order to be bent like that it had to suffer very rough handling. It was a battle to straighten it again. In Santiago de Compostela I met a cyclist from Austria who had cycled through 165 countries over the last 30 years some of them three times! I told him of my experience and asked his advice. I was shocked when he told me that he does not box his bike at all! I told him that it is against international travel regulations or the Geneva Convention or something not to box your bike and that it would surely suffer much more damage. He explained to me that a boxed bike is a very nice flat parcel which is placed flat on the floor in the cargo hold and everything else is dumped on top (despite my eight Fragile and Handle with Care stickers). If the bike is not boxed, they place it against the side of the hold and prop it up with luggage. He assured me that you are only required to do the following in terms of international cargo rules: want to be under with lightning, so we stayed on the road and descended for miles... only to find we were way off route. The storm hit with fury, so we set up the tent in a pig pasture, and hunkered down, dry and secure... with no food but a bike bottle full of wine. That was okay because we ate so much pulpo in Cacabelos that we were not hungry, but we knew we would have to climb out in the morning without food. Packing up, an American power bar fell out of somewhere. We had been biking for weeks, and we didn t even have any of those at the start. Where did it come from? Either St James, St Roche, or it had been lost in the liner of the bike bag since we left and it just fell out now. We split the power bar and started the long climb back up. All the way, we had been seeing dried up, over the hill blackberries. Here, the only place the whole trip, the blackberries were still plump and ready to eat. The milagro of the power bar and the blackberries fuelled our climb to the Alto St Roche, where we found food, water, a store and the route. Incidentally half way out, we told a local farmer we were a bit lost, and could we have some water? He said no, too bad for us we should use our head and not get lost. Only time I ve ever seen that! The Camino provides, but doesn t go overboard with it. Turn your left pedal inwards (at 6 o clock), remove your front wheel and tie it to the frame of the bike, tie your handle bars (and empty fork) sideways to the top tube, drop your saddle and lower the pressure in your tyres. The right pedal is left as is (at 12 o clock) to help protect your chain rings, unless they moan about it. I was sure I would be chased away, but decided to try it. I flew Ryan Air, British Airways and Emirates with no further damage to my bike. The nice thing was that I could do this whilst waiting in the queue to check in! It only takes two minutes and the bike is much easier to handle than when it is boxed. Even after it is prepared, you can carry it by the top tube, trailing on the back wheel. It brought an unexpected bonus: I would book in my panniers, then the check in clerk would tell me that the bike has to go to the bulk counter, but only the panniers are weighed. I would attach the luggage tag, and after completing my check-in, hand it in at the bulk luggage counter. I was not once charged for the bike except on Ryan Air where I booked it in online beforehand. Leaving London, BA gave me a bit of lip, but after standing my ground, they relented, but asked me to get some bubble wrap from the stationery shop at the airport to protect it from scratches. I wrapped a length of bubble wrap around the whole bike and they were happy. I suffered no further damage on any of the flights and will use the same method again next year. A pilgrim s story Jacki Dufty The first pilgrimage saw us bike past a tourist infested O Cebreiro, with a big thunderstorm on the way. We followed a yellow arrow, which led us to a power line road. Something we didn t

81 Chapter 11 Disability and Medical Almost anyone can walk, ride or cycle a Camino. You ll find babies in carriers, little children walking with their parents, octogenarians well into their eighties, blind people, amputees and people in wheelchairs on the Camino. Many of the Camino trails consist of rocks, gravel, shale, mud, dirt and some asphalt or tar difficult enough for most but quite daunting if you have a disability. The Camino has always been an open road for any soul who has the desire to set out on a pilgrimage and if you have any form of disability there will be added challenges you ll need to think about and plan for but these are not insurmountable. experience some form of disability, physical or mental, yet we all manage our day to day lives the best we know how. To undertake the Camino is a challenge that must not be taken lightly and correct preparation and research for anyone is essential to reaching Santiago de Compostela. You know your body better than anyone and know the challenges you face every day so the way you prepare will be very personal to you but know that every year people arrive from all over the world in wheelchairs, on crutches, with adapted modes of transport as do those with vision, hearing, intellectual and other impairments. The Camino remains a way for all. This chapter aims to highlight some considerations, outline services and resources available and encourage you to explore the real possibilities of el Camino de Santiago for yourself. What is the path like? In this chapter, we offer advice and resources for pilgrims with various disabilities. See Chapter 13 for walking with a service dog In this chapter A way for all What is the path like? Accommodation Preparations Different disabilities Resources and guides Medical matters A way for all The medieval way has always been populated by able and disabled pilgrims, the sick, noblemen, knights, kings and queens and religious folk from many different backgrounds, all with their own agenda and dreams but all ultimately with the same goal of reaching Santiago. The modern pilgrimage is no different in that respect. Have no illusions, the actual Camino path is difficult for everyone. A vast range of surfaces make up the Camino routes including tarmac roads, dirt, tracks, gravel paths and mountain trails. Some are like dry river beds whilst others may be torrent courses that carry water down the mountain. The first day on the Camino Frances for example, from St Jean-Pied de-port, begins on tarmac, ascending the Pyrenees mountain range on grass and mountain tracks before descending steeply on dirt, forest tracks into Roncesvalles. The paths can be affected by weather and can be treacherous in the rainy season. (see Chapter 2). The optimal months are May/June and September/October where the rain is not as frequent and temperatures are more comfortable. Of course, physical differences along the route such as busier roads, sprawling suburbs, more accessible accommodation and better services exist, but the path will, for hundreds of miles, be the same as travelled by millions of people before you. At some point of our lives, we all

82 People with temperature sensitivities (e.g. multiple sclerosis, spinal cord injuries) should check the tables in Chapter 2 for the weather and average temperatures. If possible, always travel with a companion or back-up person to assist you if the path becomes impassable. Most paths are well marked with a combination of yellow painted arrows, bronze scallop shells, cement stele (markers) and distance markers leading you to Santiago. The most popular route, the Camino Frances has plentiful facilities and sees thousands of pilgrims winding their way to Santiago meaning that during peak times you re never alone for very long, but other routes can be much quieter and provide far less in the way of infrastructure and although this can provide a basic, more contemplative pilgrimage, you may well go days without seeing another pilgrim. Try to be as prepared as you can for all eventualities if you plan to travel the quieter paths. Accommodation Pilgrims with disabilities who have helpers and vehicle support are generally welcomed in albergues. However, not all have access for disabled people even the Archdiocese new albergue in Santiago is not suitable for disabled pilgrims and the newly renovated Galician albergues vary in their accessibility. The Internet can be invaluable for getting such information before your arrival. After a long day on the trail all you crave is a hot shower, to recline or maybe to sip a glass of the region s finest vino tinto but further challenges await in most pilgrim accommodation. Standards can vary massively and although in 2010/11 in Galicia improvements have been made to the government-run albergues aiming to cater for all pilgrims, many other accommodations will cause problems. Dormitories are often up flights of stairs, bathrooms and toilets might also be upstairs. It would be advisable to phone ahead, or ask your companion to scout ahead to check the accessibility of the accommodation before deciding on where to stay. If calling ahead, it is best to be completely honest as to what your individual needs are. An innkeeper may believe his or her hostal is accessible because they have a ramp near the stairwell. However, that ramp may be at too steep a pitch or too narrow because the ramp is really made for hand trucks and dollies. Also ask about facilities in bathrooms, i.e. handrails, walk-in showers, floor drainage and try not to assume that if you pay for a more expensive hotel it will be better as bathrooms might be larger meaning you could have less to hold on to. It may sound like common sense but if you need to, request a downstairs room at hotels. Most places have an online facility so you can ahead your requests, and it may be a good idea to prepare an in Spanish before you go and leave it in your inbox for use along the way. Here you will find a list of private albergues where you can send luggage ahead and where you can reserve a bed in advance. This does not mean that they are more up-market or more accessible. Check accessibility when you phone or them. It is possible to book rooms in hostals, hotels, small inns, casa rurals and paradores ahead of time. For a list of booking agents who will do this for you visit this site: There are usually signs in several languages at the front desk of the albergues stating that in Spanish government albergues it is policy to give first access to people with disabilities. Preparations To undertake a pilgrimage with a disability may well need more preparation than usual, but the physical preparation will be much like any pilgrim s. The idea is to get your body and mind prepared for what lies ahead and the more time spent at home reading and researching, the easier you will find the path. There are many websites related to special clothing and adaptive gear for people in wheelchairs. Check out the wheelchair rain poncho and sleeve guards here: Choose your starting place carefully. Getting there and back could be a challenge. Check the disability access page on airline websites. For example, Lavacolla in Santiago at www. airport-desk.com/airports/europe/spain/ santiago-de-compostela-airport.html (Scroll down to disability section re access) If you have problems using trains or buses, try not to start at a place only accessible by and bus. Most national coach lines are not wheelchair accessible. Have a complete physical check-up before you go and ensure that you are in the best possible health. Take out medical insurance for the period of time that you will be travelling. Many medical centres will provide free basic treatment for minor injuries such as blisters, sun burn, etc. but you will need added insurance to cover any other emergencies. It can be very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain insurance covering existing medical conditions and you must always check the small print to ensure you are covered and familiarise yourself with any loading fees or excesses. train

83 Obtain copies of any prescriptions you might need them to yourself so that you have spare copies if you need them and take extra medication you think could be difficult to find. Check that you have spare parts and a repair kit for your wheelchair, crutches, hearing aid, visual aids, etc. Ensure that you have some form of identification to carry on your person with emergency contact details and information about your disability. Before leaving home try to make sure that you are aware of all the challenges you may encounter as a pilgrim with a disability and the accessibility of different places on the road to Santiago such as accommodation, catering establishments, etc. The Camino is not a test of speed but a test of endurance so build up stamina and endurance for time on the road. Adapt the training programme in this book to suit your own needs and help get your body into the best physical shape (Appendix 3). Ask questions on the Camino forum sites see Chapter 1 for a list of forums. As much as you can, pack light! The same rules apply to all pilgrims, but if you need to use extra equipment consider sharing the load between other members of your party. TIME give yourself lots of time and if you can t manage the whole route in one go, plan it in yearly stages. Many pilgrims complete the Camino this way. Some sections are easier than others so do some research and ask questions on forums to get a clearer picture of the terrain. Be prepared to be a bit of celebrity! Many pilgrims will want to chat or walk with you at your pace and some might even want to have their photograph taken with you. Backpack trolleys If you prefer to cart your own pack you might consider pulling a backpack trolley which will leave your hands free. The Carrix is a backpack trolley with a special harness. carrix.ch.tripod.com The Dixon Roller Pack is fashioned on the old Indian Travois and is pulled behind one. dixonrollerpack.com The Wheelie 111 can be converted into a framed pack in minutes. The Trackmate is an upright cart and claims to have better stability when loaded with a heavy pack. See Transport of people and luggage in Chapter 17 Visual and hearing impaired pilgrims Visually impaired pilgrims might find the traditional, off-road Camino paths difficult to negotiate, especially the rocky, uneven tracks down mountainsides and through forests. If you decide to use the roads, remember that the main roads that the modern Camino route follows could be hazardous from time to time. Traffic can be heavy and if you set out in the early morning, drivers will find it difficult to see you so reflective gear of some sort is essential. Always walk facing the oncoming traffic and be careful when crossing intersections. Hearing impaired pilgrims only need to be concerned that cyclists and pilgrims on horseback don t always have bells to warn you of their presence. Most pilgrims use some sort of sign and body language to communicate with those from different countries so you should have an advantage! Intellectually impaired pilgrims It is important for an intellectually impaired pilgrim to have a companion who understands the pilgrim s limitations and can assist the pilgrim along the way. Wheelchair users Hand-cycles are popular with pilgrims who usually require the use of a wheelchair. You will require a back-up vehicle to provide support and to transport your luggage and spare parts. Every year between 20 and 60 pilgrims in wheelchairs earn the Compostela certificate. (See Pilgrim diaries below for links to pilgrims stories about their Camino and other long-distance trails in wheelchairs.) Different Disabilities Walking pilgrims Pilgrims with a disability who can walk the Camino but might rely on walking aids such as sticks, crutches or walkers should consider having their backpacks transported between stages, although some pilgrims with balance problems claim that a backpack actually aids their gait. Many towns have reliable taxi services that will do this for you. In France, on the Camino Frances and Norte in Spain there are luggage transport services that will transport you and/or your luggage from town to town. All you need to do is book accommodation a couple of days in advance and send your pack ahead.

84 Santiago and the Compostela The Pilgrim s Office in Santiago is not accessible for wheelchairs as it is up a flight of stairs on the first floor. On arrival, if a disabled pilgrim cannot get up to the office, they should seek assistance or send a helper to ask one the staff to come down to the pilgrim. If a pilgrim with disabilities makes as much effort as is reasonably practicable to make the pilgrimage with as much help as is needed and if their motives are spiritual, then they will receive a Compostela. However, each case will be considered on its merits. The Pilgrim s Office is neutral about support vehicles and whether or not pilgrims carry anything themselves. The only requirement is that they walk (or journey in their wheelchair for example) for the last 100 km). Online guide In 2004 Ibermutuar (a Spanish mutual insurance conglomerate), together with several Spanish charity organisations and companies, sponsored a guide aimed at pilgrims with restricted mobility. Three pilgrims that covered the Camino Frances in wheelchairs participated directly in the preparation of the guide. The site is in Spanish but you can copy the link into an online translator to convert it to your language. It breaks each day into small sections of 8 km per day and describes how easy/difficult they are with distances, facilities such as banks and shops, which towns offer repairs and more importantly, on which parts of the route you might need assistance. There is also information about the pilgrim credencial and obtaining the Compostela. An outline of the guide The advice, suggestions, alternatives and remarks are the result of hours of efforts during the tour, which gives a look at the difficulties that face disabled pilgrims. The daily stages are not those suggested in other guides because it was considered that a person with disabilities would find it difficult to follow a pace of km per day. Each stage is described according to the original path, with alternatives for people with reduced mobility where, due to its difficulty, it must be separated from the ancient route. The difficulties described in the different stages refer to those found by a disabled person in a wheelchair, with a reduced physical strength. It also outlines cultural sites, entertainment, basic services in localities where the stage ends and accommodation, describing their conditions of accessibility. santiago/inicio/inicial.htm santiago/accesible/resumen/resumen.htm Camino Frances in Galicia two guides Women wheelchair users may find one of the Feminine Urine Directors available on the market useful (see Chapter 9). There are also special medications that can help with frequent urgency if you are worried about this aspect of your Camino. Resources and guides Physiotherapists in Spain have written a book advising pilgrims how to get to their destination in good health (Spanish and English). You can download an eight-stage guide on the Camino Frances in Galicia from O Cebreiro to Santiago. It is in Spanish but contains hundreds of photographs of the paths on each stage. This guide is intended as a support resource for people who have physical difficulties and, moreover, is established as an aid to understanding the Way. Ultimately, the aim of this guide is that wherever pilgrims go on foot, horseback or bicycle, it can also be covered in a wheelchair or on crutches. In these pages they analyse and measure the slopes and the more complex sections by proposing an alternative route and they also study the safety of the track in sections shared with vehicle traffic.

85 COGAMI (La Confederación Gallega de Personas con Discapacidad) This site has a lot (hundreds!) of photos for the stages between O Cebreiro and Santiago on the Camino Frances. If you are in a wheelchair, you will see what type of road/surface you can expect plus sections that might be difficult. The site is only in Spanish and Gallego. The photos and text have been collected/ written by people at COGAMI (La Confederación Gallega de Personas con Discapacidad) who have a lot of experience with this type of material. Other guides Pilgrims who uses wheelchairs or hand-bikes and those pulling trolleys should use both the walking and cycling guides to plan their journey. Many of the walker s paths are almost impossible to traverse by cycles or wheelchairs. The Practical Guide for Pilgrims by Millán Bravo Lozana (Everest) recommends alternative routes on each stage for cyclists and includes special profile maps for cyclists in the guide. There are always alternative cycling pilgrim s routes to follow if you have difficulty with the off-road Camino path. Use a cyclists guide book as well as a walker s guide to the Camino. Assisted walks for people with disabilities: This site is in French only so you may find an online translator such as Google translate useful. Pilgrim s diaries Ad Hermans, a Hollander, did km from Akersloot, Holland to Santiago in a hand-biked wheelchair in Medical matters Have a medical and dental check-up before you go on a long hike. Know your blood group in case of emergency. Ask your doctor to write out the generic name for your prescription medication and not the brand name, this way, a drug can be matched with the Spanish equivalent. Any prescription medications you take with you should be kept in their original containers. Take copies of your prescriptions with you. Make sure you have enough medication for the duration of your stay. Most pilgrims pack a small first-aid kit containing prescription drugs, pain killers, muscle rubs, laxative or anti-peristaltic (for the treatment of diarrhoea), etc., as well as blister kits, plasters, strapping tapes and bandages. Pack small quantities of non-prescription drugs. You don t have to take an entire medicine chest with you on your walk. Remember Spain is a first world country and, along the Camino Frances in particular, has more farmacias than bars. Over the years, pharmacies have built a roaring trade in ibuprofen creams and tablets, blister plasters, muscle rubs and ear plugs! Many brands are available in Spain, but others may be sold under a different name. Many drugs available only on prescription in the UK and other countries can be purchased over the counter here. You are still advised to seek a doctor s advice. In 2002 he went off again, this time to Rome, km accompanied by his wife, her sister and brother-in-law, and a couple of friends, all on bicycles. On their way they camped. Walkabout Foundation launches a 500 mile walk on the Camino del Norte in August Internet articles Camino 2010: Pilgrims with multiple sclerosis walked the : 24 paraplegics complete the Camino Frances from Pamplona to Santiago : Four disabled pilgrims complete 400 km by hand cycles : A total of 515 people with intellectual disabilities from six different Spanish autonomous communities made the Camino de Santiago between 14 and 20 June 2010 along its seven routes to promote greater integration and harmonious relations between the communities. tinyurl.com/cowu9j5 2010: About 80 people participated in a programme called Satellite Road which aims to empower pilgrims with disabilities to become technological pilgrims. Thus, with audio guides, signals and the most popular communication services such as GPS or mobile phones, they will join other technologies such as smart clothing or labelling BIDI (a service of labels whose reading is done by phone.

86 Blisters Blisters are the bane of a hiker s life! Everyone fears them and most of us get them. Prevention is better and easier than cure. Blisters are a form of friction burn and can form anywhere friction occurs. Footwear, socks, walking style, pack size and weight (and luck) are all involved. Wet and warm skin blisters more easily than cool, dry skin. Some people are simply more prone to blisters than others. Prevention is key. Prevention Boots should fit looser rather than tighter (your feet swell in the afternoon). Break them in well. If you are from an EU country you can apply for a free European Health Insurance Card, EHIC, (formerly the E111), which offers you access to reduced cost medical treatment. All other travellers should take out comprehensive travel insurance cover that covers medical costs. If you intend walking in the mountains, read the exclusions on the policy in case hiking or mountaineering is not covered. Some credit card companies, VISA and Mastercard, offer free automatic insurance cover when the air tickets are booked using their cards. Spain has a very good national health service that works alongside a wonderful private sector. Hospitals are of a very high standard. Chemists (farmacias) are plentiful in Spain and are marked with a large green cross. The law states that farmacias must operate on a rota system so that there is always one open. Local press carry details of the duty farmacia. Details are also posted on the door of the farmacias. You can obtain basic medical advice here. There are also alternative chemists such as Chinese clinics and herbal clinics. Most speak English but a few words or just pointing at a blister, sore back or limb will suffice. ( Allergies If you are or ever used to be allergic to anything whether it is foods, seeds, pollens, grasses, etc., take antihistamines with you. You might have become immune to your local products, plants and insects but you could flare up when you inhale, swallow or touch exotic plants or foods. One also needs to pack something to treat insect bites. If you have ever been allergic to stings, such as bees or wasps, take your medication with you. Bed bugs Bugs have been making headlines for a couple of years on the Camino and at times the problem reaches almost plague proportions. Hostals have been fumigated and hospitaleros (volunteers) advised on how to check for and eliminate the pesky bugs. Different remedies and drugs have been suggested: lavender oil, Bayticol (used to kill ticks on clothing), Sawyers (a similar product sprayed on fabrics, used by the US Army to kill most insects in the field), Bakers Venom Cleanser a product that claims to be an antidote to bee stings and other painful insect stings. When buying boots, wear the socks you will use on the Camino. Good socks: a thin liner with a thicker outer layer helps to wick moisture away from the foot and to prevent friction. The mile socks have two layers an inner that wicks the sweat away from the skin and an outer breathable layer. Change socks in the afternoon so your feet stay dry; wash socks well (and frequently), your feet will appreciate it and so will your new friends in the albergues. Hot Spots are those stinging, red patches that appear before they become blisters. Treat hot spots before they become blisters. Air dry the hot spot and cover with protective material. Treatment Blisters should be drained and kept protected from further friction. Thoroughly wash the area around the blister. Sterilise the sharp point of a knife in a flame, by boiling, or in alcohol. Let it cool. Puncture the blister on the lowest edge leaving a slice in the tissue. Drain all fluid. Leave the outer layer intact and put a layer of protective material over it. Cover that with tape to minimise further friction. Products that help with protection include: Blister block, Moleskin, Second skin, Compeed Dehydration Adult humans are approximately 62% water. A walking pilgrim may easily lose between 2 and 4 litres of water each day, depending on activity, weather and metabolism. Much of the loss is due to normal bodily functions such as sweating, urination and breathing. Diarrhoea and vomiting can quickly lead to dehydration. When we lose too much fluid our cells and our organs do not function well. Dehydration decreases one s endurance, affects one s immune system and can lead to serious shock. Intake must balance output for optimal health.

87 Signs and symptoms of dehydration: Mild headache Feeling tired, sleepy Minimal or no sweating Feeling faint Rapid, weak heart rate Visual disturbances, extreme fatigue, stumbling gait If you need a gluten-free meal in a restaurant, print out a few of sheets of these gluten-free cards to give to waiters and store keepers. Eroski supermarkets stock gluten-free products. Headaches Treatment: Drink plenty, drink often (250cc/8oz. every minutes) Snack as you drink, it replaces needed salts Check urine colour; it should be clear to light yellow Do not use salt tablets Diabetes Use a product called Frio, a crystal-filled pouch that comes in several sizes, to keep the insulin. When submerged for five minutes in cold water, its crystals turn to gel and keep the pouch at an insulin-friendly temperature. Take two insulin pens instead of syringes because the needles and vials for a pen are much smaller. Take two blood sugar metres, a glucagon kit and extra prescriptions for your medicines. Obtain a doctor s letter for customs, airport security and anyone else who might be alarmed by all those needles. Spend a few days getting over jet-lag and acclimatising before starting to walk. Carry extra bottles of water and juice as well as high energy bars, nuts, sweets or dried fruit. Useful websites Read about Dudley Glover, an insulin-dependent diabetic with coronary heart complications who walked the Camino in 2004: Diarrhoea When you travel through a foreign country, drinking different water and eating different food, there is a chance that you will suffer from an upset stomach and/or vomiting. The main causes of diarrhoea are over-eating or eating the wrong foods, non-absorption of foods, infection or stomach flu. These can lead to an increase in the frequency and liquidity of the stools which can be most inconvenient and unpleasant for a hiker or cyclist. Diarrhoea usually only lasts for a few days and can be treated by avoiding solid foods and dairy products for a day or two, drinking lots of fluids, and taking a gastrointestinal drug such as Imodium or Lamisil. Read the contra-indications on the leaflet as some people might experience drowsiness not a good thing for cyclists. If the diarrhoea is severe or persistent consult a doctor. Gluten intolerance/celiacs You need carbohydrates to walk for weeks so carry and cook lentils, rice and potatoes in the albergues. Eat tortillas, sausage, fish and lots of fruit and nuts. The most common cause of headaches is dehydration Other common causes of headaches are: Tension headaches Vascular headaches Eye strain Poor sleep Caffeine withdrawal Trauma to the head Food associated (alcohol, chocolate, eggs, dairy, processed foods, etc.) Treatment Hydration Massage and/or cool compresses to neck muscles Check the fit of the backpack Good sunglasses, cool compresses to the eyes Pain medication (Note: do not give if trauma to the head) Warning signs Headache with fever and stiff neck A progressively worsening headache Weakness, numbness, tingling, vision disturbances Altered mental status

88 Sprains and strains Sprains affect ligaments and joints, strains affect muscles and tendons. Fractures sometimes accompany sprains or strains. Some sprains are worse than fractures and take longer to heal. Most commonly affected are ankles and knees. The bottom line: Is it usable? If so, tape or wrap it. If not, splint it and see a doctor. Common signs and symptoms Swelling and discolouration Pain and limited movement Treatment Stop activity that uses the affected area and apply H-RICE (Hydrate, Rest, Ice, Compress, Elevate) Hydrate the patient Rest the injured area Ice (or cool) the injury (20 30 minutes) NB: allow injury to rewarm for15 20 min before testing for usability Compress the injured area with a gentle wrap Elevate the injury above heart level Usability test Range of motion: have the patient move the injury through normal range of motion while sitting. Compare with movement in the other ankle, knee, etc. No significant pain? Now you move it with a bit more stress at the ends of movement. Too much pain? Don t use it and see a doctor. Not so much pain? Test gradual weight-bearing. If the patient can bear their own weight, tape or wrap the injury and allow her/him to use it. Taking some of their pack weight would be helpful. If pain and/or swelling return, see a doctor. Prevention Stretching before and after your daily walk along the Camino. Stay well hydrated, this aids in the health of all bodily tissues. Tendonitis A painful problem not uncommon in the pilgrims world. It can occur suddenly through repetitive movement and finds its way onto the Camino mostly through walking. As tendons slide within their protective sheath there may be irritation due to the build-up of too much fluid within the sheath itself. Symptoms include pain on movement, swelling, redness and often heat at the affected area. Ice or other cooling measures, along with pain and anti-inflammatory medications such as ibuprofen, can help with the symptoms. However, rest is the only absolute cure. This, unfortunately, often means taking time away from the Camino. Vigorous massage has been effective in mediating pain and other symptoms, but again, rest is the only absolute cure Short-term relief of Achilles tendonitis may be found by using heel lifts in one s shoes or boots. stretching prior to activity is helpful in preventing acute tendonitis. Wounds and infection Blisters are the most common open wound to afflict the pilgrim. These can and sometimes do become infected. However, any open would, even a mosquito bite or small cut, can be a site for infection. Infections can become life threatening in as little as 24 hours. Signs and symptoms of infection Redness around the wound Swelling at the wound site Heat at the edges of the wound Pus seeping from the wound Red streaks moving toward the body Swollen lymph nodes Signs of serious infection Rapid swelling of local tissue Significant fever (above 35 C or 102 F) Pain with tissue swelling Signs of shock Treatment of open wounds (until you can see a doctor) Wash well around the wound site Thoroughly irrigate the wound with clean water Cover the wound with sterile dressings Seek professional help for closure of wounds more than ½ inch wide, or wounds of the hands, feet or face

89 Treatment of infection * Open the wound and pressure irrigate it with copious amounts of clean water * Hydrate the patient well (dehydration promotes infection) * Hot water soaks several times per day * Cover the wound with sterile dressings * Antibiotics may be necessary: consult a physician * Monitor the wound closely for signs of serious infection Please remember that these descriptions are meant as a guide. Consult a doctor if there is no improvement in a day or two and do not dispense medication to other people. First Aid Tips by Daniel De Kay (American Pilgrims on the Camino). A pilgrim s story J B Greer Chapter 12 Children on the Camino You want to walk the Camino but who will look after junior while you are away? Mention walking the Camino with children and you ll be amazed at how strongly people feel about it. Some are virulently against it whilst others completely support the idea. Others are not sure how they feel! This chapter provides information and resources for families or individuals contemplating walking a Camino with their babies or children. In this chapter Two weeks before walking I stepped barefoot on a hot coal during a cookout in my backyard. I burned the ball of my foot and a couple of my toes pretty good. You could say that the walking hurt a bit. My wife and I started in Léon but had to skip from Astorga to Sarria due to illness (hers) and injury (mine). In Ferriros, between Sarria and Portomarin, we stopped at a small bar with adjoining albergue. Sitting outside, I took off my shoes to let my feet breathe. Up walks a man I have never seen in my life. He sits down across from me, looks at my foot, makes a troubled face, and then reaches in his kit for a small bottle of medicine which he then smears over my wounds. And that is how I met Ramon, who became our walking companion for the next several days. Are there angels on the Camino? Yes. Undeniably yes. Statistics Advice on Jet lag Babies or toddlers Books and equipment The Compostela Statistics The number of children on the Camino is growing. More and more young families and individuals are doing the Camino together with their children. Unfortunately, there are no up to date statistics on babies or very young children but these stats for children from 0 to 12 years are from 2006 to 2009: : : : In the 1999 Holy Year children were registered at Santiago and in the 2004 Holy Year 7% of the pilgrims registered at Santiago were from 0 10 years of age (925 children) and years ( children). Advice on jet lag If you are travelling from afar and across different time zones, plan for an adjustment period before starting your pilgrimage. Deliciousbaby.com makes the following recommendations:

90 For time differences of three hours or less, consider keeping yourself and your baby or child on home time. Hotel blackout curtains help with this! Over the course of a week or more, everyone will probably adjust to local time naturally but there s no need to rush things. As with grownups, the thing that most helps babies and kids adjust to the time change is the sunlight. Get everyone up first thing in the morning, try to get them as much daylight as possible, and attempt to have them outside at dusk as well. During night time, try to keep the lights out and the blackout drapes closed. Offer your child food at local mealtimes (and in general try to fill them up during the day so that they re not hungry at night). Try to choose healthy, filling options; junk foods will only make the problem worse. Encourage physical activity (for everyone). There s no better way to encourage your body to sleep than to wear it out! Make sure to put yourself to bed early for the first few nights so that you re alert when the children wake you up in the middle of the night. Encourage your child to nap when it is nap time at your destination. Expect that it will take four to five nights for your child to adjust to a new time zone and plan your trip (and your return) accordingly. Babies or toddlers I believe babies are very portable and easy to manage if breastfed. The only piece of equipment Tips for toddlers and jet lag For big time changes, expect that your child will wake up once or twice for the first few nights, most likely at their usual meal times. The first two nights, we let our kids play or eat when they wake up if they need to. After that we give them milk if they need it, but not solid food, and after that we expect them not to wake at night (just like home). The first few days after a big time change, your child will probably take some marathon naps during the day. Take advantage of them! On one trip, we ate a seven-course meal in a Michelin starred restaurant in Paris with my son napping in the stroller! Tips for babies and jet lag Breastfed babies may take a little longer to adjust as mom s body is manufacturing milk on the home-schedule and may need some time to adjust to the new schedule. Jet lag and dehydration from a long flight can also impact mom s milk supply, so make sure to keep yourself well hydrated. Young babies rely on routines to help them understand their day. Try to keep your naptime and bedtime rituals similar to the routines you use at home, this will help your baby adjust. It s okay to play with a baby who wakes up at night (for the first few nights) but try to keep the activity fairly quiet and phase it out gradually. After a few nights, keep the room darkened, offer milk and try to soothe your child back to sleep. Don t worry that a time change will cause a permanent regression in baby s night time sleep. Sleep training is a long, ongoing effort with frequent setbacks when baby is teething, learning a new skill, or not feeling well. Travel is just another temporary setback. Try to gradually help baby get used to taking most of their food or milk during daytime hours (but don t refuse to feed them if they are hungry). Breastfed babies may take a little longer to adjust.

91 you need is a sling. Breastfed babies cry very little. They sleep with mom and need not cry at night. So I do not think of the baby as a problem in an albergue. I would think adults would be noisier than a baby would. I would take the sweet sounds of a nursing baby over a snorer any time. I would take a baby over a toddler since the younger babes are in arms and like I said very portable and easy to manage. Take enough money so that you can indulge in a private room once or twice. Midwife I would say even the littlest peregrinos needn t have any especial fear for their health (or at least for adequate healthcare) on the Camino de Santiago, above and beyond what one would normally expect in any long trip away from home. Graham and Elaine We can confidently recommend the Camino to more families with youngsters. With improvements in the infrastructure, principally road safety black-spots throughout the Camino and albergue accommodation in Galicia, and increasing the awareness of hospitaleros, the conditions for families on the Camino will improve even further. Robert Sellick, father of a twoyear-old pilgrim. It is easier than people think with a 15-month-old and everyone gave us a warm welcome. We did stay mainly in hotels with some albergues where they tended to put us up in the rooms reserved for sick pilgrims. It can t have been too bad as we are planning on going again next year; this time with our children who will be seven and five years old. I think it will be more of a challenge as they will have to get there under their own steam. My advice is always the same to people thinking about taking kids on the Camino, just do it and see what happens, you can always stop and come back another time. Ben publisher of Pili Pala Press Useful websites The Family Adventure Project. One of the blogs is about a family who did the Camino on tandem bikes with trailers. pedallingpilgrims.blogspot.com/2008/08/set-in-stone.html Contact: mail@familyonabike.org The Littlest Pilgrim blog about an Australian couple who travelled with their one-year-old daughter. Read their very useful blog for mental, physical and spiritual practical preparation. After a week s training and a fitness test during the Easter holiday in April 2005, eight-year-old Camille started her pilgrimage to Compostela by walking the 65 km from Puy en Velay to Saint Roch. terragalice.blog4ever.com/blog/lirarticle html Pint-sized pilgrims on the Camino. This Kiwi Family walked with 8 children, ranging between 6 and El Camino en Familia - a company that takes families with children on the Camino Backpacking websites There is a wealth of information on the Internet on backpacking with babies and toddlers. backpackingwithbaby.com

92 DVD video El Camino de Santiago. La Ruta Xacobea Paso a Paso (The Way of Sanitago, the Xacobean Route, Step by Step) is a lovely French documentary that focuses on the pilgrims experiences, reasons for undertaking the pilgrimage, and spiritual changes felt. It shows some ingenious means created by pilgrims with children, such as carts fashioned with mountain bicycle wheels. The documentary is available only in French and Spanish. It is distributed by DVD Spain: Little Pilgrim s Journey to Santiago de Compostela El Camino de Santiago: Rites of Passage Chimenti, Wayne. Trafford Publishing. This is about the Chimenti family s travels on a 500-mile walking pilgrimage. It started as Nahja, their 12-year-old daughter s rite of passage. It turned out to be a test for everyone. Santiago de Compostela by Juan Ramón Alonso. (English and Spanish) Pepe Mouse and his friends in Santiago de Compostela by Juan Ramón Alonso. ISBN: (English) (Spanish) Activitiy Book with Stickers Go to Books and equipment Baby carriers, slings, chariots, mini-tents, all make it easier to trek with babies or toddlers Backpacking books There are many books on backpacking with children most available from mainstream or online stores. * Backpacking With Babies and Small Children: A Guide to Taking the Kids Along on Day Hikes, Overnighters and Long Trail Trips (Paperback) * Camping and Backpacking With Children (Paperback) The Compostela Children under a certain age are not given a Compostela. Confession and communion remain essential to the granting of the certificate of having completed the pilgrimage and if a child has not yet received their first communion they cannot comply with the requirements for the Compostela. Parents can request an alternative certificate. A pilgrim s story Nicola and Rio I walked the Camino last year with my five-month-old son. He was in a baby backpack he couldn t have been any younger as he wouldn t have been able to hold his head up. When we overcame things like inflatable cushions on each side of his head for when he fell asleep, we loved it. When we set off from SJPDP Rio, my son was the youngest pilgrim on record. I m sure that in history, before the records were kept there were many who have walked and the child did not have their own credencial, or the child was in fact younger if not born en route! However I feel proud of Rio s claim! We walked for four weeks from St Jean to Léon and then went back when he was just a year old to carry on to Santiago. On the second part I had to send a separate bag on in a taxi every day as I d carried 23/24 kg for the first leg and knew I couldn t carry this again. He got more out of it the second time as he slept through most of the first four weeks. If there are two of you it will be far easier as you can share the load. 99% of people were very welcoming and friendly. Be prepared to stop regularly en route as everyone wants to take your photo. Its most definitely something I would recommend but probably to have someone else with you. I had such an amazing experience I m writing a book about it and am now planning the Via de la Plata! It ll be hard and challenging but so is life. Do, if possible at least start off with someone else. I started for the first two weeks with a very good friend I wouldn t have got very far without her. Do be fit and strong: nappies weigh a lot! Do have a guide book to see where you can next buy nappies. Do have some spare cash to stay in a hotel for the odd night. Do be prepared to bath your baby in sinks! Do be prepared not to stop for coffee at the cafés with everyone else your baby will be asleep on your back. You need to stop when it suits them. Do take a few dangly toys. Do be prepared to sing lots of repetitive songs these become second nature to the rhythm of your steps. Don t set out to complete the whole thing it can be completed at a later time if need be. Don t expect anything from anyone. Any help anyone offers is a beautiful bonus.

93 Chapter 13 Dogs Just as with children on the Camino, when you mention walking the Camino with a dog you ll be amazed at how strongly people feel about it. Some are completely against it for a variety of reasons, whilst others support those who can t bear to leave their pet behind. In spite of the fact that Sant Roque and his faithful dog have competed with Sant Iago to be patron Saint of Spain, the locals are often hostile to foreign dogs and there will be a few challenges trekking with your hound in Spain. In this chapter Pets and service dogs Canine hiking gear Preparing and travelling with your dog Accommodation The paths Food and water Canine etiquette and Spanish dogs Help on the Road Blogs and Videos Pets and service dogs Pilgrim dogs There are no statistics on how many dogs walk the Caminos but one sees all breeds of dogs walking alongside their owners on the Camino trails. Some wear little panniers so that they carry their own medication and food and have booties to protect their paws from the hot paths. It is quite common in Spain for loose dogs to run out and bark at cars, pilgrims and other animals. If your animal is not trained, this could be problematic and cause accidents. Service dogs Unlike many other EU countries, Spain does not have uniform laws when it comes to service dogs. The provinces of Galicia, Palencia and Barcelona do have laws that allow assistance and guide dogs public access. However, many albergues, and public buildings, including churches and cathedrals, are not familiar with these laws and will turn you away. Spain has uniform laws on guide dogs for visually impaired people and no one should turn away a person with a guide dog. If you require the use of a service dog, carry a copy of your dog s certification in both your native language and Spanish. While there may be times that you are turned away due to the non-recognition of your service dog, having the certification does help with transportation issues. Trains, buses and many taxis will allow you to take your dog with you instead of being placed in cargo or, in the case of taxis, in the trunk. There are traffic laws as to how animals should be transported in cars and taxis. If you intend walking or cycling with your dog, you will need to plan carefully, familiarise yourself with local regulations and keep your dog under control at all times. Canine hiking gear There are all sorts of canine products available for long distance hiking. Backpacks canine packs and panniers are available for all size dogs. They are anatomically designed to fit the contour of the dog and not interfere with the dog s movement. Boots for dogs are commonly used by mountain rescue dogs, service dogs, for hiking and for rehabilitation. Coats and wraps: Thermal wraps and waterproof coats are essential in colder seasons. They help to reduce energy loss and protect from snow and rain. For dogs with long coats, a cooler wrap will help to keep him cool and hydrated whilst walking in the sun. Collars and leashes are essential when walking through built-up areas and close to roads. Springer is the brand name of a system used by cyclists to keep the dog attached but away from the bike during cycling. Doggie bowls come in collapsible and folding styles. Beds come in padded, ultra-lightweight designs for all size dogs. Flashing lights can be attached to a collar, coat or on a cycle. Creams and sprays for hardening the paws, muscle and joint liniments. Dermafloncream promotes healing when it is delayed by the presence of necrotic tissue, tissue debris, blood clots, especially when abscesses, bites, sores, wounds, skin lesions, dermatitis, diseases of the anal glands and so forth. Supplements, high-energy food supplements and energy bars. Tick and flea collars are useful to protect the dog along the way.

94 You can check out all the canine gear listed above on these websites Preparing and travelling with your dog Preparing your pet The type of experience you have with your pet on the Camino will be determined by how much training and preparation you make before you go. Health check Have your dog checked by the vet to ensure that he doesn t have any underlying joint problems, bad teeth or other conditions that might cause problems on the trail. A very young dog could sustain injuries to joints that will trouble him in later years. Older animals with arthritis or other physical problems should not be taken on a long hike. Neuter Consider neutering your male dog before you go and if you have an unspayed bitch, put her on medication to stop her from coming on heat whilst on the trail. Vaccinate Your dog must be vaccinated against rabies, distemper and other canine diseases before you go. You might be asked to produce the vaccination record, any immunisation records and/or microchip identification. Supplements Give your dog vitamin supplements so that he is in top condition before you go. Take along energy bars for dogs. Feeding Get the dog used to feeding in the evening so that when you are on the Camino, you can feed him at the end of the day s walk when he will not have to exert himself again. Training Train with your dog by taking him on long hikes in the country but avoid walking in the hottest part of the day. Pads Toughen up the pads of his feet by using a product like Pad-Tough for a few weeks before leaving for the Camino. Packs If you intend using a canine backpack or panniers, train the dog to carry them, empty at first, and then with increasing loads. Dogs in good physical condition can carry up to 10% of their body weight. Travelling with your pet This website gives information on travelling with your dog through the various regions of Spain. Depending on where you are starting your travels from, be sure to check your country s rules with regard to transporting animals to different countries. If you reside in the EU be sure your dog s Pet Passport is up to date. If coming from the US, check with the USDA as to the timelines for the many different credencials that are required before a dog can travel outside the States. Accommodation Unless you are planning to take a tent and camp wild, this is the number one problem for pilgrims with dogs.

95 Pilgrim refuges Very few pilgrim refuges allow animals and the rare establishment that might let your dog stay will probably ask you to tie it up outside. This is acceptable in summer but remember that it can be very cold at night, especially in the high places. Pilgrim shelters are run by volunteers on a rotation basis and even if one hospitalero allows a dog to spend the night in a living room or laundry, the next person on duty might not. Some of the newer, private albergues might accept your pet but phone ahead to check. For a list of private albergues: Hotels The majority of Spanish hotels, restaurants and bars are hostile to dogs but there is a website that lists hotels that will accept dogs. Campsites Many camp sites do allow pets. These are generally a way outside of the towns and off the Camino routes. (Check Chapter 8 for a list of camp sites and useful camping websites.) The paths Many of the paths on the Camino consist of steep, slippery, rocky climbs that might prove difficult for you and your animal. Other sections involve long distances on tarred roads or asphalt which will be hard on the paws especially on hot days. There is nothing worse than seeing a dog hot-footing it alongside his master who has strong, protective boots to protect his feet from the scorching tarmac. It is best to familiarise your dog with wearing booties to protect its feet. And at the end of the day as you care for your own feet, remember to do the same for your dog. Check for pad wear, bruising, blisters, cuts. There are many products available online and speciality stores to help protect a dog s feet. Food and water Get your dog used to a partly raw meat diet before you go. Pellets are heavy to carry and not always available in small villages. There are butchers in most places and you ll have a better chance of finding meat for your dog than dried foods. Carry a collapsible water bowl as there are long stretches on the Camino with no taps or rivers. A pilgrim, who was adopted one day outside Carion de los Condes by a stray dog, walked with the dog all the way to Santiago and then took him home to Holland. Trigo got a mixed diet sometimes sausages (not chilled) especially for dogs at the dog food department. I mixed this with dry bread when I couldn t find dry food. I sometimes found cat food but that wasn t very sustaining. Trigo also got leftovers from bocadillos and tortialla Espanol; and... a lot of cookies from other pilgrims. In Arzua he got a special free packet from a butcher oh man he was happy! Please remember that tins of food will spoil quickly in the heat. Be sure to allow your dog many breaks to drink. While the Camino is a trial of endurance for humans, it is the same for our four legged friends. If your dog is not taking water readily, add a little broth to their water. This can be found at many markets. Canine etiquette If your pet is not obedient, tame and friendly towards people and other dogs, do not take the animal on the Camino. Keep your dog on a leash when walking through farms, vineyards, villages, towns, built-up areas and alongside roads. Do not allow your dog to chase other animals. Bury your dog s waste and do not allow him to defecate on pavements or city streets. Do not allow your dog to climb into water fountains or troughs of water meant for human consumption. If wild camping, try to ask permission to put your tent up on someone s land. Be prepared to stop your dog from barking if you are sleeping close to a pilgrim albergue or camp site. Try an ultrasonic dog whistle or Bark Control Collar that will emit a gentle vibration or a high frequency sound when the dog starts barking. The dog should wear this collar at all times. Keep your pet clean and well groomed. Do not allow your dog to beg for food or to steal food Spanish dogs There are many stray animals in Spain and although most house dogs are chained, there are always those that run loose. This can pose a danger to you and your pet. Animals have a natural instinct to protect their territory and you and your dog will be viewed as intruders. You are your dog s pack leader and as such have to defend him. Seriously consider carrying a Pepper Mace Spray, a Stun Gun and a stick. If a dog looks as though it is going to attack, point the stick at it, this then becomes the point of attack. If the dog backs off, take a few steps forward until the dog has retreated. If the dog grabs hold of the stick, don t try to pull it away, push it into the dog s mouth until it has to let go. Stab at the dog with the stick hitting it is ineffectual but constant stabs will deter the animal. If it still doesn t back off use the spray and stun gun.

96 Help on the road You can these two clinics in Spain if you need help or advice whilst walking the Camino with your dog. Clinica San Fermin: San Bernardo Clinic: Perro Forum Blogs and videos Sergi and Zeus an excellent blog with lots of advice on walking with your dog. Spanish. efectoneutro.com/el-camino-de-santiago-con-perro/ Geert and Maup walk to Compostela. Dutch. home.kabelfoon.nl/~buc/start.html The Journey of Adana a group of volunteers walk with rescued dogs on the Via de la Plata. Spanish. blog.elcamino2009.com/?m= An Irish girl, Kaybee, walks in winter with her dog from Pamplona to Santiago. English. kaybeetravels.blogspot.com/ El Camino with your best friend a page with some advice on walking with your pet. Spanish. Way of St James with dog. Spanish. American Albert Elia who is blind started his Camino in Burgos in April in the sole company of his faithful guide-dog Zion. Spanish. Video: Chapter 14 Horses and donkeys Not all pilgrims walked to Santiago in the Middle Ages. Those that could afford to went on horseback including lords and ladies, knights and the clergy. Many pilgrims used a donkey or mule to cart their baggage on the Camino trails. With the help of a donkey you can camp along the way and will have lots of inquisitive pilgrims to chat to! A pilgrim s story Pieter Netherlands The gift Mary gave me Trigo is a Spanish shepherd dog. During my four-month pilgrimage from Holland to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, I was struck by a statue of Mary. When I was praying for the welfare of pilgrims and all those who gave prayers to me to carry forth to the tomb of St James, it seemed that Mary answered and said, Do not worry... I shall take care of you and your worries. The next day a stray dog came on my path and continued to be with me. A priest along the Camino de Santiago asked me whose dog it was. I said it was mine more or less as I found it. He answered, You didn t find that dog. The dog found you! Only later I understood that this was the gift Mary gave me... If Trigo wasn t in my life, I would have given up hope long, long ago. PS: I managed to get Trigo home to the Netherlands and he lived with me until he died a few years ago. In this chapter Horse riding Practical advice Guides, books and diaries Touring companies Donkeys Books Web advice

97 Horse riding Doing the Camino on horseback requires a lot more planning than for walking or cycling and it can be expensive. In this chapter Babette Gallard gives her advice on riding the Camino. Practical advice Horseback riding seems easy, but the reality is very different and if you are an inexperienced rider on a long ride like the Camino, you could suffer chafing, bruising and pinching. Stop frequently to rest you and the horse. Wear a reflective vest and a helmet. Always ride in single file. You might need to have back-up, someone to drive a horse box, carry feed, the necessary farrier tools and look ahead for stables and accommodation for you and your horse. Unless you intend riding back to the place where you started, you will need someone with a horse box to meet you at the end of your pilgrimage. Advice for riders The advice given below is aimed at riders and their horses who intend to remain independent, or with very little back-up assistance, so if you will be travelling with someone following on behind with feed, etc. some of this will not apply. Nevertheless there are some key principles that everyone should consider. Your horse/donkey must be: One hundred per cent traffic proof Familiar with crowds and generally noisy places Familiar with being tethered for a full night Able to deal with a variety of different feeds Tethering Tethering is the only solution on the Camino. Occasionally you will find better options, but even where your guide book lists refuges that accept horses you can expect something more appropriate for donkeys usually a tethering post. So what is the solution? We tried hobbles, and in time our girls got used to them, even to the extent that one of them jumped a ditch with hers on, but their use is limited and when you are considering the weight you are carrying they are perhaps an unnecessary addition. We tried high running lines, with quick release hooks and they did work as long as we could find two points to run them between and better still four so that we could keep the horses on separate lines, but this will not always be possible. The lines must always be high enough and taut enough for the horse to get his head down to graze but no more. We have also used the dog corkscrew your horse might mow a crop circle but whether you use this or a tree or tether post the vital components are a hose pipe, rope (not a plastic covered cable) and a quick release on each end of the rope. Run the entire length of your rope through the pipe, include a weak link that will break if necessary, so that if/when your horse gets tangled the rope will not cut through the fetlock. Then, practice, practice, practice stand and watch, let your horse get tangled and only leap in to release him/her when it starts to look dangerous you will be surprised how quickly he/she will learn. If it is any consolation, or help, I can tell you that our first weeks on the Camino were pretty scary and we made lots of mistakes, but we and our horses learnt from them and walking over 20 km a day got rid of any excess energy, which made life easier. There is no better training than actually getting on with the task and being with your horse 24/7 changes your relationship in ways you cannot possibly imagine now.

98 Fitness Some people say your horse should be extremely fit for a trip like this. I tend to disagree. For me the most important aspect is that the horse/pony/donkey is carrying enough weight for it to be able to lose at least a quarter without being too thin. If not, you will either be forced to take a long break or give up. Both horse and rider will become fitter day by day so start slowly and increase the distance gradually. Baggage Rucksacks are a bad idea. Always opt for saddlebags. Throw out 50% of what you put in, preferably before you go. Make sure all of your equipment will stay in place on both steep ascents and descents. Be sure to test it all before you leave. Despite all of your best endeavours your equipment will be lost, stolen or worn out by the time you return home, so be sure that what you take you will be happy to lose. Advice for entering Santiago on horseback Pilgrims planning to enter the city on horseback should notify the local police (tel: 092) several days before their arrival. The police will be able to tell you the compulsory route and stipulated times, and give you an access permit so that you can enter as far as Plaza del Obradoiro and stay for a short time in front of the cathedral. Immediately thereafter, the horses should be taken to their pre-arranged stables or accommodation. Pilgrim Office: Civil Defence (Santiago): Local police: 092 Guides, books and diaries Guides Etiquette Always carry a pooper scooper. You will be sharing the paths and townships with pedestrians and should leave nothing behind but good memories. The Way of St James on Horseback This guide contains everything riders need to know to ride the Camino Frances from France to Santiago. It includes a description of the road, highlighting its potential difficulties, existing facilities for the horses on the Camino Frances, maps with icons that indicate the most suitable lodgings, list of blacksmiths, veterinaries and equestrian centres in every province the road runs through and much more. or Books Riding the Milky Way: Babette Gallard and Paul Chinn made the pilgrimage from Le Puy-en- Velay in France in Babette s book is a must-read for anybody planning a journey of their own. Spanish Pilgrimage: A Canter to St James. Robin Hanbury-Tenison and his wife Louella made the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain in the traditional way riding on white horses over long-forgotten tracks. Their adventures are vividly and entertainingly recounted in this delightful and highly readable book. Horseshoes and Holy Water: On the Hoof from Canterbury to Santiago de Compostela. The lure of a long-distance ride leads Mefo Phillips to team up with her sister Susie and their spotted Appaloosa horses Leo, a flirt with a passion for Mars Bars, and affectionate, gluttonous Apollo for a pilgrimage down the medievel Way of St James from Canterbury to Spain.

99 Pilgrim diary Touring companies There are a number of touring companies that offer guided horseback rides on the various Camino routes. France and Spain Private tours of the Camino de Santiago allow you to stay in fine hotels every evening sampling the outstanding cuisine of northern Spain whilst your luggage is transferred for you every day. Alternatively, you can head directly to Galicia and ride the part of the route on horseback. France The Office Guides Transpyrénéenne Equestrian and the Association of the Way of St Jacques de Compostela Pyrenean Piedmont invite you to explore on horseback (or on foot or by bike!). Spain/Portugal All the routes in Galicia Camino Frances, Portuguese, Via de la Plata, Inglés, Primitivo, Camino del Norte and Ruta del Mar. galeon.com/rabadeira/index.htm Camino Frances, Portuguese and to Finisterre. Ten-day rides to Santiago. Camino Frances, Via de la Plata, Camino Inglés, Portuguese, Norte, Camino Primitivo and Camino Finisterre Muxia. And, if you don t fancy the saddle they can offer you a more comfortable conveyance in a horse-drawn carriage. The Confraternity of St James in the UK can put you in touch with members who have recently made the pilgrimage on horseback: Donkeys Thanks to Barbara Reid for information on walking with your donkey. A lot of the information given for horses will be applicable to people taking a donkey. If you are not planning to hire a donkey, you will need to budget for the pack saddle, bags and other equipment. Good quality equipment will cost you easily as much as the donkey itself. In short, think long and hard before you start! Hiring a donkey Either hire a well-trained donkey or be prepared to spend a lot of time training your own, bearing in mind that once you have done that you will have your donkey for a long time. A donkey can easily live to be 40 years old, and will be unhappy without company. The actual walking will be a lot slower, not because the donkey will walk any slower than you, but because everyone will want to stop you to chat, and you will have to look after the donkey every evening, before you see to your own needs. You can only rarely stay in a town, and you will probably have to camp quite often. Not all the paths will be possible because of the width of either bags or a cart. Miam Miam Dodo guide books give information on equine friendly places to stay, and a lot of other useful stuff. Unless you intend walking back home you will need to hire a horsebox for the return journey, which all adds to the cost. Renting a donkey from Le Puy-en-Velay to the Pyrenees: 700 Renting a donkey from the Pyrenees to Santiago: 750 Renting a donkey for the entire route: Donkey treks: Assisted donkey walks for people with disabilities Books The Great Donkey Walk, Susan Chitty and Thomas Hinde (account of walk from Santiago to Istanbul) The Great Donkey Trek, Sophie Thurnham (a journey on foot through Spain, France and Italy) Travels with My Donkey: One Man and His Ass on a Pilgrimage to Santiago, Tim Moore (he undertakes the 500 mile journey from St Jean Pied de Portto Santiago de Compostela with a donkey in tow).

100 Web advice The website of Jacques Clouteau (author of Il est un beau chemin semé d épines et d étoiles) has all you could possibly want to know about walking with a donkey. (French) Other four legged creatures: In 2010 eight pilgrims rode camels to Santiago and pilgrims on camels featured in the film Welcome. In some parts of Spain you can go on camel safaris. A pilgrim s story Barbara and Dalie We got back a couple of weeks ago from a three-week walk from St Leonard de Noblat to La Réole, in wonderful weather, and I had some thoughts I would like to share with you, on the way a pilgrim is accepted, encouraged and often cosseted. Now usually Dalie and I stay in countrytype places, as frankly most town refuges don t welcome donkeys. This may be due to their inconvenient size and dietary requirements, though this could apply to the odd human pilgrim. So, as the guide mentioned that a number of kind people not only made room for pilgrims in their homes, but would even feed them, I decided to do a little phoning rather than just walk until we saw a field no one was using. I am now more than ever convinced of the innate kindness of ordinary civilians. We never lacked for a place to stay, although the variety was astounding. From the luxurious bed and breakfast that halved the price for pilgrims (even with donkey) to the garden shed with room service, we met with universal and unquestioning acceptance. I think we had a little of every type of pilgrim lodging, from bijou refugettes run by the friends of the voie de Vézelay to the aforementioned B&B, passing through pony clubs and private homes. Dalie of course would vote for the riding stables at Périgeux where we had a rest day, and she was fed three meals a day plus multiple treats, while I went on the bus to see the town. I got to spread my sleeping mat in the pony club. Next time we encountered riding stables Dalie had lost a shoe. We stayed there as well, and the owner removed the remaining shoes. No charge for either of them. Then there was the network of good souls at La Réole, no one place but a whole list of people offering their spare bedrooms to tired and grubby strangers. Some folk stated a (very modest) price; some said not a word about payment until I said I would like to help with their costs. Some very firmly refused to take anything at all. We ate astoundingly well (apart from the night where I was cooking in the tent and spilled my boiling pasta on my foot, which meant neither the pasta nor the foot was a lot of use that night. Well, you try standing in a bucket of cold water for an hour and see how hungry you feel afterwards).to return to my original point: The spirit of the pilgrimage is alive and well in France. If you don t believe it, walk the delightful paths of the Vézelay route and look at the Chassain guide to see all the Acceuil pélérin à domicile entries. Then stay in their homes, and realise that most of these good people are not themselves ever intending to walk to Santiago. Take them with you in your hearts; they make it possible for us. Part Four Chapter 15 Technology and communication The world we live in is, whether we like it or not, a technological paradise and there seems to be a different gadget for every purpose. It is built into our very existence nowadays and we use technology without even realising it. Cell phones, Internet, GPS, Sat-Nav, PCs, cameras, smart-phones, Blackberry, Mp3 players the list goes on and on. In this chapter The big decision The planning stage Online stage guides On the Camino Summing up The big decision There are two trains of thought for the modern pilgrim and its something you as an individual can make a conscious decision about before you head off on your way. Until very recently, the Camino was walked pretty much the same by each passing generation who relied on their wits and navigated their way by the light of the Milky Way. A pilgrimage itself is a chance to shed the trappings of modern life, just for a short while, and experience what it s like to leave behind the comfort blanket we wrap around ourselves in our everyday lives. It permits us to challenge our endurance, learn new skills and open our minds. The un-aided pilgrimage is about empowering, testing, strengthening, renewing and journeying. What technology you take is a very individual choice and what works for one pilgrim doesn t always work for the next so information in this chapter will allow you to make informed decisions and find the combination that works best for you. It s nice, of course, to have a pictorial memory of your pilgrimage and the mobile phone is maybe the single most important item of safety equipment when in the outdoors. Internet blogging is popular, portable GPS guidance systems are increasingly being used on hiking trips and the simple task of letting everyone at home know you re doing well despite the gruesome blisters, is important to us all.

101 One big thing to bear in mind is that with each item of technology you take the more weight you will carry. Everything weighs something. A charger, a battery, a memory card, a USB lead, a GPS, a carry case... It all adds up! The planning stage A very useful site that has both printable and downloadable guides to all the Spanish Camino routes, but unfortunately only in Spanish is: This site has also produced a rather fancy iphone application, again, only in Spanish but you may find the maps, photos and accommodation contact numbers useful if you don t speak the language. A great site already mentioned in this book has a few tools for planning your Spanish Camino including personalised, downloadable Google Earth map files containing distances, amenities, accommodation, etc. The Internet is the single most important resource for the planning stage of your Camino. The vast majority of us have access to some form of Internet either at home, at the library, the local coffee shop or on our cell phones. There is a vast amount of information on pilgrim websites and forums where past, present and future pilgrims all come together and talk about everything Camino related (see Chapter 1 for links). Camino forum sites provide a wealth of information and a sense of community, a place where you can relax, chat, ask, watch and look. The sites have a very good forum community where you can not only find information but also ask specific questions relevant to your own planning. You ll see the same people, from all cross sections of life, visiting these pilgrim forums day after day, building up not only their knowledge of the route, but also their confidence and making new friendships in the process. You may even find a new walking buddy! Online stage guides There are a few stage guides on the Internet that are starting to push the whole concept of travelling without a guide book. Any Camino is a long route of course and most people feel more comfortable carrying a guide book of some sort to show them where they can stay, which route to take, what to see along the way, etc. However, would it be so bad to not take one at all? The yellow arrows along the way won t often deceive you. If you have something that can store and display text or PDF documents, then these guides to some of the Spanish Camino routes may be of use to you while you walk. On the Camino As a species we re very communicative and even though you re undertaking a medieval pilgrimage it doesn t mean you can t stay in touch with friends and family. Spain is a 21st century country and communications along the way are adequate for most of your needs, just don t expect lightning speed photo uploads! Cell phones Cell phones these days can do pretty much everything. The latest ones will call, surf the Internet, play music, take good quality photos, let you read documents and even tell you if you are on the right track! You can purchase cheap pay as you go cell phones from the airport, supermarket and phone shops in Europe. You d just top up with credit and away you go. What if you have an unlocked phone but need a Spanish SIM card? If your phone is unlocked and it can accept any SIM card, you can purchase a SIM from many places in France and Spain; a mobile phone shop in Pamplona a few days along the route would be a good bet. You can usually get a pay as you go SIM card for about 15 with some credit already loaded on it, but prices are dropping and offers for calling and Internet bundles are increasingly common. Blackberry data SIM cards from Spanishsim.com for about 90 * * * * (French)

102 How do I get SKYPE for my laptop? Simply download the application from this link: Register and you re ready to go. Reminder: To make your calls FREE, both you and the person you re calling must have SKYPE. Otherwise, it ll be a low rate to call landlines and mobiles (2 cents per minute to call the US for example). Internet and blogging More and more people are chronicling their travels, allowing friends and families back home to stay informed and leave messages of support and jealousy! A smart-phone that gives you this feature is great, just don t forget to get yourself a local SIM card. There are Internet facilities in many villages and towns (there s even a travelling Internet truck in St Nicholas Del Real Camino) but the technology is rather dated and slow meaning an excruciatingly long wait while you upload any photos. You ll soon find that sitting in a swelteringly hot Internet café is the last thing you want to be doing and so become less and less dependant on using the Internet. NOTE: You may require your passport and have to fill out a few forms. What if I have a phone or laptop with wireless Internet (WIFI)? A bonus of taking your WIFI enabled phone or laptop is the possibility of keeping in touch with your loved ones and, indeed, fellow pilgrims along the way with SKYPE, the Internet telephony application. SKYPE is an application that started life as a PC program allowing users to call other SKYPE users, PC to PC, for free plus normal landlines and mobile phones at low cost. If both users have webcams, then it s possible to use video calling to see your loved ones on screen. There is a conference call facility too that means you can connect to several friends at the same time. A slightly faster way to upload photos, if you haven t got a smart-phone with Internet, is to take a USB multi-card reader. They are very small and light. You take your memory card from your phone or camera, insert it into the reader and plug it into the computer. This way you can upload your photos to your blog and leave your USB camera leads at home. Some good travel blog sites * * * * Third generation (3G) mobile phones are able to use SKYPE if you have the application and access to a free WIFI connection. So how do I get SKYPE for my 3G mobile phone? Firstly, you need to download SKYPE. (Check that your phone is compatible, there is a list at this link) SKYPE will send the application to your phone and you set up an account from there When on the Camino you ll have to look out for free WIFI hotspots to connect your phone to and make SKYPE calls for free, usually in bars, restaurants and hotels. A great site to search for WIFI hotspots is Jiwire. They also offer a free iphone application that searches for you.

103 E-readers An E-reader is a gadget that allows you to store and read hundreds of electronic books and documents downloaded from the Internet. They are usually very light, around 10 ounces, the weight of the average paperback, slim, portable, have great storage for any guides or novels you wish to take along and they are decreasing in price all the time. Amazon s Kindle e-reader boasts storage for books and has wireless connectivity meaning that you can search and download new books on the go. The Kindle works perfectly with the online downloadable stage guides. Netbook computers Gaining in popularity along the Camino are laptop and Netbook computers. It may not be a very Camino friendly piece of equipment, and you could well get a few raised eyebrows from fellow pilgrims, but more and more people are feeling the desire to take their computers with them to upload photos, connect to WIFI, write their Camino journals and contact home. They often have plenty of storage space, easy WIFI Internet connectivity, webcam and microphone facility for use with SKYPE calling and are nearly always small, light and robust. A mid-range, refurbished Netbook with all of the above can be as low as 150. Acer and Asus netbooks are some of the more popular manufacturers on the market. Cameras When it comes to photography, we are spoilt for choice. There are countless cameras claiming to be the next big thing but for the pilgrim the weight of such items is still the most important consideration. The compact camera is king when it comes to pilgrims. They often have a plethora of functions and options, more than most people could ever need. What are mega-pixels and digital zoom? It s a misconception that more is better when it comes to cameras. Most compact cameras come armed with a high number of mega-pixels and zoom capabilities but really, unless you re a professional photographer, anything upwards of 8 mega-pixels will be more than enough. The same can be said for zoom There are two types of zoom: optical and digital. Most compact cameras come with both; however, it s the optical zoom that is a bonus. The higher the optical zoom, the closer you can get to your subjects. Digital zoom is really a false economy as it uses the maximum optical zoom to digitally enlarge the image leading to vastly degraded image quality. So, a good compact should have 8 mega-pixels upwards, and anything from 6 x optical zoom. Twelve times digital zoom would not really be worth the extra money. Companies such as Sony and Canon produce very good compact cameras that are perfect for the Camino. They are feature packed and light. Memory cards When making final decisions on a camera, it may be worth doing a little bit of research on what memory card it takes. Every digital camera needs a memory card to store photos and there are many different types of cards. For the Camino you will take hundreds of photos so a large memory card of 2 gigabytes (gb) would be wise. These cards can vary in price so if you like the look of a particular camera, shop around to see what price the memory cards are. Beware: Use reputable sellers like Amazon and high street shops as auction sites are awash with fake memory cards that never perform as well as genuine ones. Batteries Cameras vary with what battery they use. Some use regular AA batteries that you can purchase along the routes, which means that you can save weight by not needing to take a battery charger. However, its much more cost-effective to buy a camera that has its own rechargeable lithium battery and the only extra item you need to pack would be its wall charger, oh and don t forget the EU adaptor! Finally on cameras, as mentioned elsewhere in this chapter, if you are wanting to send photos

104 home or blog your photos then a USB memory card reader will allow you to plug your memory card directly into most Internet computers along the way. A short note on GPS Love them or hate them, GPS navigation units are becoming increasingly popular when hiking. They can record distance, heights, calories, times, speed and position along the way. If you are a technology fan you might be interested in this website dedicated to hiking and cycling with your GPS units that allows users to upload their data for other to use. However, GPS units are not a necessity. The routes are marked well in most cases and taking such a unit would be purely a luxury. Summing up As you can see, there is a glut of technological choices for you to make, we just hope we ve not made things more complicated for you! To finish off the chapter I think its best to remind you, the soon-to-be-pilgrim, that you can walk any Camino without any of the technology mentioned here. In fact it s a shame that greater numbers are relying on technology on this essentially medieval route and perhaps a richer experience can be had by leaving behind all of the items we cling to so dearly when we are at home. The Camino has a way of providing for the pilgrim and even without cellular communications and gadgets we can survive in the now, prosper, learn and talk, face to face with strangers and pilgrims alike, just like the generations before us in whose footsteps you are soon to follow. A pilgrim s story Glenn I have done three Caminos and each had encounters that were very special to me. Because I ve just celebrated 37 years of marriage with a wonderful woman, I have to share this story from Murias (between Astorga and Rabanal). It is a little village and in 2009 that is where I was spending the night. I had not phoned my wife in a few days and it was Sunday, the day I usually phone her. There was no public phone to be found in the village. When I asked the lady at the bar she confirmed that there was indeed no phone there. I told her that I had wanted to tell my wife where I was and that all was going well. She asked, Do you really love her? To which I replied, Yes, very much so. She then gave me her cell phone with a smile and said you can call her with this. I was so surprised, thanked her and walked outside to make a very brief long-distance international call home. When I returned the phone, this lady would not accept any money from me, she just smiled and said, Come back later if you want to say good night to her. Things to know Cameras: Digital is the most popular. There are photo shops along the way to transfer onto Flash Memory or CDs. If it is a new camera, scan instructions and them to yourself in case you need to read them along the way. There are public phones all along the route. You can purchase World Call cards before you leave, purchase a World Call card in Spain or use cash. If you take a cell phone, remember to switch it off in a church, cathedral, monastery, etc. Cell phones: You can rent one, buy one or buy a pay as you go SIM card. For the best coverage either Movistar or Orange is recommended. When using Internet cafés you will find foreign keyboards a bit challenging! Remember that Ctrl + Alt 64 makes sign on PCs. There are webcams on the route: The one in the Obradoiro Square in front of the cathedral is located in a row of balconies of balconies on the Pazo de Raxoi. You can stand there and wave to your family back home! Find out which towns have webcams by visiting this website: camaras/

105 orange juice and a piece of fruit should see you through the next few hours until lunch time. Chapter 16 Food and drink One of the great things about walking through a different country is having the opportunity to sample a vast range of mouth-watering dishes and beverages. The pilgrim trails through France and Spain can provide you with some of the best cuisine in the world and as a pilgrim it needn t blow your budget. In Spain if you are looking for hearty soups and lamb, Navarra in the north-east satisfies the palate. For some of the world s best wine, Rioja impresses. If meat is your thing, then Castilla y Léon gives you succulent steaks and sausages; then onto Galicia in the north-west for an incredible range of fresh, tasty fish and seafood. Whatever your tastes, there is something to satisfy every pilgrim s hunger and don t forget, walking 20 km every day ensures you need not feel guilty when staring at the restaurant menu! In this chapter Time to eat! Special dietary requirements A little wine with dinner Supermarkets Regional dishes Time to eat! Breakfast desayuno (petit-déjeuner) As the majority of pilgrims will be walking in Spain, we offer advice for eating in Spain. A pilgrim s breakfast will usually be a simple one in France or Spain. Most people choose to begin walking and stop for a pastry or bread at a local café, bar or shop. Madalena (cup cake) coupled with a Cola Cao (hot chocolate), Café con leche (coffee with milk) or indeed freshly squeezed For the more extravagant breakfast choice, you may come across Chocolate con churros, doughnut style pastry sticks, deep fried and served with a thick chocolate sauce. Maybe best left to fuel those longer days of walking delicious but naughty! Most small towns and villages have some form of café or bar in which to buy breakfast but of course buying from supermarkets and carrying food with you will work out a lot cheaper, especially if there are several people walking together and you can share the cost. Lunch almuerzo (le déjeuner) Cafés and bars offer the pilgrim choices for lunch. Common items include bocadillos, a 15 to 20 cm long portion of baguette usually filled with cheese or ham, or tortillas (omelettes) with a range of fillings. If you prefer just a snack then potato chips, chocolate bars and ice creams are readily available. Supermarkets open around 09h00 and will usually have a fresh selection of fruits and bread available cheaply. Camino etiquette can be hard to adhere to when it comes to the vast selection of fruits growing fresh along the trail, but unless those fruits are truly wild, remember that you could be stealing from a local who relies on their harvest for survival, so try to resist the temptation to steal fruit along the way. Dinner la cena (le diner) When it comes to dinner the pilgrim has options according to budget. Larger villages and towns will have at least one supermecado where you will be able to purchase fresh vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, eggs and packaged goods. If the albergue has a kitchen it is often cheaper to buy food and prepare it there. Towns that have pilgrim accommodation will usually have several restaurants offering pilgrim menus a full meal with beverage for a pilgrim-friendly price. Menu del Peregrino Pilgrim Menu is usually a set, three-course menu with complimentary bread, wine and/or water. The three courses consist of a starter, meat dish and a dessert and costs between 8 and 12. This type of menu represents very good value for money. The Menu del Dia is the Menu of the Day. This usually offers more choice with a variety of starters, main meals and desserts and costs from 10 to 15. Wine and/or water is often included but you may be charged for bread. Platos Combinados are combination dishes on one plate such as sausage, chips and salad. Prices range from 5 to 8. Special dietary requirements Unfortunately the Spanish don t seem to understand the concept of vegetarianism and even less so, specific dietary needs. If you need a gluten-free meal in a restaurant, print out a few sheets of these gluten-free cards to give to waiters and store keepers. To order soup sin carne (without meat), can mean having to pick out the chunks of sausage!

106 Water Most restaurants and café-bars serve bottled water with meals. You can buy water and minerals from vending machines, tiendas and supermecados. There are fountains and water taps all along the route providing potable water. If they bear a sign non-potable do not drink from them. A little wine with dinner Spain has almost 3 million acres of land dedicated to wine-making and is the third largest producer of wine in the world with over 600 varieties of grapes, meaning that you really are spoilt for choice. The Camino routes pass through several major Spanish wine regions including Navarra, Rioja, Castilla y Léon and Galicia, known for its white wines made from Albariño grapes. Most soups are also made with meat stock, so even if you can t see the meat, you could still be eating meat products. Ensalada sin pescado (salad without fish) often includes tuna chunks as tinned atún and ham is not always considered to be real meat. If you are a vegetarian a supply of dried fruits and nuts in your backpack is a good option for breakfast and lunch. If you want to tell your server that you have a certain dietary preference, you may find these phrases useful. Navarra wine is a Spanish Denominación de Origen (DO) for wines that extends over practically the entire southern half of the autonomous community of Navarra. The vineyards occupy the lower slopes of the Pyrenees as they descend towards the basin of the river Ebro. The region used to be renowned only for its Rosado wines but in recent years has been producing quality reds and whites as well. Rioja wines are grown in Rioja and Navarra and are usually a blend of various grape varieties, and can be either red (tinto), white (blanco) or rosé (rosado). There are several different types of Rioja. Rioja, Rioja Crianza, Rioja Reserva or Rioja Gran Reserva Rioja simply means the wine has spent less than a year in an oak barrel whilst Vino de Crianza is wine in its third year, matured for at least one year in the oak cask. Reserva is aged for at least three years with at least one in an oak cask. Gran Reserva is a vintage wine which has aged at least two years in an oak cask and three years in the bottle. A good value pilgrim wine would be the Crianza variety. In Galicia you ll find a wine region called Rías Baixas, home of the Albariño grape. This grape is difficult to cultivate and yields are low yet it produces a fine white wine. Albariño wines are known as the wines of the sea given that their production is so close to the Atlantic Ocean and how they complement the delicious seafood of the region so perfectly. The three most common ageing designations on Spanish wine labels are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. I am vegetarian (man/woman): Soy vegetariano/vegetariana I do not eat meat/fish: Yo no como carne/pescado I am lactose intolerant: Soy intolerancia a la lactosa I am allergic to nuts: Soy alérgicas a las nueces Crianza red wines are aged for two years with at least six months in oak. Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at least one year with at least six months in oak. Reserva red wines are aged for at least three years with at least one year in oak. Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least two years with at least six months in oak. Gran Reserva wines typically appear in above-average vintages with the red wines requiring at least five years ageing, 18 months of which in oak and a minimum of 36 months in the bottle. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least four years with at least six months in oak.

107 Of course, a pilgrim s budget may not stretch to some of the best wines in Spain, but buying locally can mean lower prices and wines included in pilgrim menus can be very drinkable! The fountain outside Estella, courtesy of the company Bodegas Irache, provides the pilgrim with a chance to sip some wine that is said to have curative properties. Supermarkets Supermarche in French or supermecado in Spanish, the supermarkets will provide the pilgrim with most everyday items and of course are usually cheaper than local shops. However, bear in mind that the survival of some of the smaller villages may rely on pilgrim custom for its continuing survival so spare a thought before restocking. Most shops open around 09h00 and close at 14h00 for siesta. They reopen at around 17h00 and close at 20h00. It is worth noting that most small supermecados close on Saturday afternoon and all day on Sunday. Regional dishes Spanish cuisine consists of a huge variety of dishes and is heavily influenced by seafood available from the waters that surround the country and reflects the country s deep maritime roots. However, Spain also has a strong tradition of fresh, healthy vegetables and fantastic meats. Common foods along the Caminos in Spain include tortilla de patatas (Spanish omelette), a typical Spanish dish consisting of an egg omelette with fried potatoes and onion. This dish can be a very hearty lunchtime option for the pilgrim. Most people have heard of paella which consists of rice and meat and is Valencia s regional dish but can be found throughout Spain. There are three types of paella. Valencia paella consists of white rice, vegetables, meat and beans; seafood paella is just rice and fish; and mixed paella is usually a combination of everything. The region of Navarra boasts thick, flavoursome stews, Piquillo peppers stuffed with meat and trout cooked with bacon and cheese that sometimes make an appearance on pilgrim menus. Cheeses here are also good, namely Roncal and Idiazabal which are pleasant washed down with a little claret wine or patxaran liquor. Good Lechazo, roast lamb, and Cochinillo asado, suckling pig, can be found in Castilla y Léon as well as black pudding made with dried blood and spices. You will soon get used to Sopa de Ajo or garlic soup, a huge variety of sausages and cheeses as well as some of the best wines in the whole of Spain. In Galicia its seafood that dominates the menu with specialities such as Pulpo, Octopus, cod and goose barnacles. For dessert, why not try the Tarta de Santiago made with almonds and lemon. Of course, don t forget the exquisite, Albariño wine from the Rias Baixas. To learn more about regional foods visit this website: Tapas Originating in Spain but spreading around the world, tapas is a term to describe a variety of appetisers and snacks, both hot and cold. Tapas bars often have a large selection of mouth-watering dishes behind glass and diners pick and mix their options sometimes making up a full meal. Tapas are usually heavily flavoured with garlic, chilli, salt, pepper and saffron and can often consist of olives, seafood, olive oil and bread. Don t panic if you can t make out what a particular tapas dish contains; it s often not clear but the flavour combinations are divine. La Rioja is well known for not only its wine, but also its vegetable soups and potato dishes.

108 Cities such as San Sebastian, Seville, Barcelona, Granada, Logroño, Léon and Burgos have whole areas devoted to tapas and its well worth exploring and sampling their delights. When ordering drinks in some bars in Spain, you may receive a few samples of tapas to sample for free and it s worth noting that in Northern Spain, tapas is also called Pinchos. Typical prices for tapas range from 1 to 2 each but can be upgraded sometimes to make larger portions. Below is an extensive list of Spanish tapas to fire the taste buds! Aceitunas Olives, sometimes filled with peppers or anchovies Albóndigas Meatballs with sauce Alioli Garlic and oil commonly served with mayonnaise, grilled potatoes, fish, meat or vegetables Bacalao Salted cod loin sliced very thinly usually served with bread and tomatoes Banderillas Banderillas, or pinchos de encurtidos, are cold tapas made from olives, baby onions and chillis pickled in vinegar and skewered together. Boquerones White anchovies served in vinegar or deep fried Calamares or rabas Rings of battered squid Carne mechada Slow-cooked, tender beef Chopitos Battered and fried tiny squid (also known as puntillitas) Cojonuda Spanish morcilla with a fried quail egg over a slice of bread very common in Burgos Cojonudo Consists of a slice of Spanish chorizo sausage with a fried quail egg over a slice of bread Chorizo al vino Chorizo sausage slowly cooked in wine Chorizo a la sidra Chorizo sausage slowly cooked in cider Croquetas Croquette potatoes Empenadas or empanadillas Large or small turnovers filled with meats and vegetables Ensaladilla rusa This literally means (little) Russian salad and is made with mixed boiled vegetables with tuna, olives and mayonnaise Gambas Sauted prawns in peppercorn sauce, al ajillo (with garlic), or pil-pil (with chopped chili peppers) Mejillones rellenos Stuffed mussels Pimientos de Padrón Small green peppers fried in olive oil or served raw (most are mild, but a few in each batch are quite spicy) Pulpo Octopus served in oil with salt Pulpo a la Galega Octopus served with paprika, common in Galicia Pincho moruno A stick with spicy meat, made of pork or chicken (its name can translate to Moorish spike ) Patatas bravas Fried potato dices served with salsa brava, a spicy tomato sauce (alioli is often served with it too) Puntillitas Battered and fried tiny squid (also known as chopitos) Queso con anchoas Castilla or Manchego cured cheese with anchovies Rajo Pork seasoned with garlic and parsley Solomillo a la castellana Fried pork scallops, served with an onion and/or cabrales cheese sauce Solomillo al whisky, or al güisqui Fried pork scallops, marinated using whisky, brandy or white wine and olive oil Tortillitas de camarones Battered prawn fritters Siesta A siesta is a short nap in the early afternoon, often after the midday meal and when the temperatures are at their hottest. It also means that shops and services close so be sure to factor this in when planning your day. Times for the siesta can vary, but between 14h00 and 17h00 there is no guarantee these places will be open. Restaurants usually start serving lunch between 13h00 and 16h00 then dinner from 19h00 to 11h00. The cheaper pilgrim menus are often served from 19h00 before the busiest time of the evening. Buen apetito! See Appendix 5 for more on food costs

109 A pilgrim s story Martha For me, the Camino was made up of small moments rather than grand revelations or angels. The loneliness begins as we head toward the Roman road from Calzada de Coto. The way isn t well marked and we are used to reassuring yellow arrows. A local man tells us that most people walk along the highway to El Burgo Ranero. The road ahead is long, without villages to provide the café we enjoy each morning. We are tired and the short day we plan takes more hours than expected. Jim s back is hurting. The lack of café doesn t bother me; it s the lack of pilgrims. During the day, Jim and I walk separately, coming together to comment on sights or directions. It s Jim s time for meditation, mine for prayer. We are essentially alone. The villages are where we come together, find old Camino friends and make new ones. We have a communal dinner at the albergue, or go to a restaurant, pull tables closer to share the pilgrim menu with the famous half bottle of wine. Con pan y vino, se anda El Camino expresses best what the Camino means to me. With bread and wine, one walks the Camino. Whether your walk is secular or religious, this coming together with pilgrims from different countries is an everyday communion and builds the common bond of pilgrimage. When we walk into Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, the streets are empty, the mud-walled houses shuttered and the albergue deserted. Outside the restaurant, the chairs are tilted against the tables to keep the seats dry. We decide on a rare stay in a Casa Rural to nap away the fatigue of long days on the Meseta. We wake up stiff-muscled and a little depressed. On the way to the restaurant, I peak into the albergue. At the long common table I see, for the first time in several days, Irene from Finland and Bela from Hungary! We share hugs and news and head out for the pilgrim menu. All aches and pains and flagging spirits are forgotten. When Jim and I returned from walking from St Jean Pied de Portto Léon, we were unpacking our bags when I got an from Irene, in Sarria by then, still walking. She wrote, Now awaiting menu peregrino (do you even remember what it is)? Yes, Irene. I do, because sharing the menu with you that day was one of the best parts of my Camino Chapter 17 Doing the Camino your way Everyone is entitled to do their Camino their way. Perhaps you prefer not to rough it and walk alone for weeks carrying everything on your back. Until the reanimation of the old pilgrimage trails in the 1970s nearly every pilgrim to Santiago arrived there by bus or train. Many went with organised groups or tours. Over 10 million pilgrims visited Santiago in 2010 (a Holy Year) and of those 2% ( ) walked to Santiago, the majority doing the last 100 km. You can book guided and unguided tours on the Camino. You might choose to walk alone but book all your accommodation ahead of time and have your backpack transferred each day. If you are pressed for time you can choose to walk a section, then get a bus or taxi further down the route. Many people only have two or three weeks leave from work meaning that they have to bus to a few places. In this chapter we provide resources for doing the Camino your way. In this chapter Tour operators Luggage and people transfers Booking accommodation Unusual ways to do the Camino Tour operators Tour operators in France and Spain offer guided and self-guided holidays for walkers, cyclists and even a few on horseback.

110 France Chemins de France They take groups on all the French routes Le Puy-en-Velay: Vézelay: a St-Jacques, La Voie de Vézelay, La Voie de Arles and Le Chemino de Cotier from Irún, Bilbao, Santander, Oviedo and from Lugo to Santiago. Les Premiers Pas (First Steps) School teacher Juliette Lacoste accompanies small groups from Le Puy juliettelacoste@lespremierspas.org Marly Camino Their tours are meant to attract all sorts of people, younger or older, healthy or sick, religious or not. They arrange accommodation, transportation, itinerary, security, guidance, meals and a support vehicle. marlycamino.com/ On Foot in Spain Walking Tours and Hiking Educational Adventures specialising in small groups (6 to 14 people) walking holidays led by cultural anthropologist Nancy Frey (PhD, UC Berkeley) and writer, mountaineer Jose Placer. Spanish Adventures Garry will book your accommodation on the Le Puy route in France. See below for more details. Contact Garry at garry@spanishadventures.com Spain Amawalkers on the Camino (Best of Both) Based in South Africa they accompany small groups (maximum 12) on 21-day walks on the most scenic sections of the Camino Frances twice a year staying in a combination of inns, hotels and traditional albergues. Walkers are free to walk at their own pace, meeting up in the evening at pre-booked accommodation. Follow The Camino They specialise in walking and cycling holidays along the many different routes of the Way of St James. They select hotels and guesthouses based on their comfort, character, facilities and convenience to the Camino. For further information, you can contact them by phone on or by info@followthecamino.com Fresco Tours They have been working on the Camino since 1999 and are very familiar with all the hotels and providers along the trail. They would be delighted to assist any pilgrims with their travel needs! For more information on their scheduled, full service guided tours of the Camino, please contact them: alex@frescotours.com Frontier Holidays Guiding and helping folk to independently walk the Camino for a decade. Affordable family run accommodation. Luggage transfers, maps, route notes and useful tips. Tailormade, self-guided and guided holidays can be seen at: / info@frontierholidays.net Iberian Adventures They provide an accommodation booking service, as well as help planning itineraries, arranging transfer of luggage from overnight stop to overnight stop or even taxis to get to and from lodgings if need be. They can arrange a range of accommodation, from some private albergues all the way up to the most luxurious lodgings available along the way. jd@iberianadventures.com Outdoor Travel Pty Ltd Australian-based walking holiday travel specialists Outdoor Travel Pty Ltd has been helping pilgrims, walkers or cyclists to secure accommodation and assistance with luggage transfers on the Camino for over eight years. The staff have experienced the Camino first hand and offer several routes from Le Puy in France to Santiago (the French route), the Camino Portuguese, the Primitivo and Norte and the route to Finisterre. For information & assistance see the website info@outdoortravel.com.au Saranjan Tours The route offers something for everyone art and architecture for the cultural traveller; beautiful hotels/paradores, gourmet dining and fine wines for the luxury loving adventurer; and glorious scenery for nature lovers travelling on foot or by bike. See our Camino by small van, on foot and by bike tours.

111 Spanish Adventures Camino de Santiago, self-guided. I live in Santiago de Compostela and have been working as a guide on the Camino since early As well as guided trips, I offer self-guided trips on the various Caminos, including the Le Puy route in France, organising your accommodation (with dinners usually provided in the smaller towns), and bag transfers so you only need to carry a small day pack. Stages are worked out according to your requirements and experience, and accommodation is selected according to your budget, in general using good quality local accommodation. I provide maps and suggestions on places for lunches and coffee breaks, and labels for your bags each day to ensure your bags arrive at your accommodation. See my website for more info. Contact Garry at garry@spanishadventures.com Spanish Steps Walking holidays in Spain, Europe and beyond. Teachers Travel Service Ltd Walk the Camino in comfort. Two guides, two levels of walking; first-class hotels and paradores; luggage transfer; support bus and most meals provided. info@teacherstravel.com Totally Spain Totally Spain is an established and reputable Spanish travel agent dedicated to planning and organising quality, customised travel and tours in Spain for independent travellers and groups since We provide an accommodation booking service along the Camino in hotels and B&Bs. info@totallyspain.com Bono Iacobus (in Galicia) A tourist service designed specifically for the Camino, spending each night in a different rural home. The price includes accommodation, dinners, breakfasts and car transportation from the rural settlements to the beginning and end of each stage. Also offer a picnic lunch, luggage transfer and accommodation in Santiago de Compostela. The Bono Iacobus can be purchased throughout the year except during the month of August and Easter. Luggage and people transfers If you are unable to carry a heavy backpack or are unable to walk very long distances over difficult terrain you can still do the Camino by having your pack (and yourself) transported by taxi or transport services on most of the Camino routes. In order to do this, you must have pre-booked accommodation along the way. This means that you will not be allowed to stay in any of the traditional pilgrim albergues that do not allow prebooking or vehicle back-up. However, many private albergues do allow pilgrims to stay who have backpacks transported along the route. Have a look at the private albergues lists at Red de Albergues. For pre-booking accommodation in hotels, small inns and private albergues, see below. Many local taxis will transfer your backpack to a pre-booked establishment for a few euros. Ask a hotel or bar to recommend a reliable local taxi service known to carry pilgrims and/or backpacks. France and Spain Express Bourricot: People and luggage from St Jean Pied de Port or St Jean le Vieux to Logroño and Navarette People: France from St Jean Pied de Port to Moissac (ex: Ostabat, Navarrenx, Aire sur l Adour, Condom, Lectoure, etc) to Spain: from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos (ex: Roncevales, Pamplona, Logroño, Sto Domingo de la Calzada, etc.) Pays Basque area Baggage : On the Chemin du Puy d Aire sur l Adour to Roncesvalles. Links daily between Navarrenx and Roncesvalles. People: From Le-Puy-en-Velay: ex d Aire sur l Adour to Roncesvalles. In Spain: (Camino Frances or other destinations) Home back to the airport / train stations in the Midi-Pyrenees jean-claude.lafuente@nordnet.fr La Malle Postalle transports your luggage from stage to stage on the Chemin de Saint Jacques de Compostela between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques contact@lamallepostale.com

112 Lauzerte Transport of luggage or people: Transport for pilgrims: Taxi Lorette and Taxi Victor Transport of luggage and pilgrims (between Montcuq and Auvillar) Estimate on request. Durfort Lacapelette Tel: and , Spain Aragones: Jaca, Huesca Tel: Camino Frances: Taxi Belorado service that covers the whole route between Roncesvalles and Santiago Javier Rioja Sáez: Tlf: Camino del Norte Le P tit Bag transports bags from Bilbao to Irún. The Peregrine Express will transfer your luggage on the Camino del Norte between Irún and Santander. If you are travelling in a big group and you have a minimum of 12 bags for transport they can transport as far as Oviedo. For information on transport past Oviedo please contact them. christel.langeveld@gmail.com Contact number: Caminofacil: From Roncesvalles to Santiago St Jean to Logroño: to Burgos: to Léon: We carry the pilgrim step by step, day by day on the Camino de Santiago backpacks, suitcases, bikes... anything that may make more convenient the hardwork of making the pilgrimage. The site is in English, Spanish and French. Jacotrans@jacotrans.com Tel: Jacotrans Navarre Tf Juanjo Jacotrans Rioja Tf AnthonyJacotrans Burgos Tf Luis Angel Jacotrans Leon Tf Jose Luis Logroño: Pamplona to Burgos Luggage Transportation and Pilgrims Services Toni Transporte Toni.transporte@gmail.com Telf: Transport in Logroño and area from 4 Transport between Pamplona and Burgos.

113 Viana to Burgos Globetrotter Transportes Tel: F: This company offers transport of rucksacks, bicycles, etc. from Viana to Burgos from April to September: Transport luggage solo 7 per person per step, contact us for groups: Baggage must be available to the driver at 08h00. Approximate times of taking care of luggage: Viana 07h00, Logroño 09h00, Navarrete 09h30, Nájera 10h00, Santo Domingo 10h30, Belorado 11h00, Agès-Atapuerca 11h00, Burgos 12h00, Castrojeriz 13h30 Burgos to Léon: Luis Angel Acero Luisacero2005@yahoo.es Tel: Castrojeriz to Léon mavi46@gmail.com Tel: Léon to Villafranca del Bierzo info@albergueavefenix.com Public transport of bags and pilgrims: Villafranca to Travadelo, Ruitelan, Herrerias, La Faba and O Cebreiro. Léon and Ponferrada Marimar Transportes Taxi Astorga marimartransports@hotmail.com Marimar Gonzalez: Covers the route from León to Ponferrada. The price is 7 per pack and stage of km special prices for groups. León to Santiago Camino de Santiago Info@Caminodesantiago2010.com.es Tel: José Luis Pardo Rodriguez Sarria to Santiago Xacotrans linfo@xacotrans.com, We have more than fifty points for collection/delivery from Sarria, passing the towns of Portomarín, Palas de Rei, Melide Arzúa, O Pino, Lavacolla and Santiago. Including Disabled transport. Palais de Rei to Santiago We carry excess weight and deliver it to Santiago de Compostela in a specially designed box. From Palas de Rei to Melide, Arzua O Pino, etc. but only to private establishments. Via de la Plata From Ourense: Taxi3 Amoeira: contact José Angel Cid Vazquez on jacidvazquez@gmail.com or You can use Taxi3 or other companies to start south of Ourense too. Booking accommodation Turespana s Guide to Accommodation: In 2004 the tourism institute of Spain Turespana published an official guide of hostals, pensions, hotels, and camping sites on the Camino called Guia Oficial de Hoteles y Campings del Camino de Santiago. It is available in French, German, Spanish and English and lists all accommodation authorised by the appropriate municipal and national tourism authorities. Obtainable free of charge in any tourist office or from TOURSPAIN manuel.jurado@tourspain.es Top Tour of Spain Their website provides a link to inns, hostels, pensions, hotels, paradores, monasteries and apartments, which they believe offer the best rates going. Hotel Asturias Visit our website for making reservations on the Internet for all our hotels with the best price available, because there is no middleman and we don t charge a commission. This may be very useful for all pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela this year. Internet booking Booking accommodation over the internet has never been so easy. Most accommodation booking web sites like Booking.Com are paid a commission by the hotel so you are not charged. In many cases you don t pay for the accommodation until you arrive there. They will take your credit card details and if you do not pitch, they charge the booking to your card. Some charge a small deposit which is refundable up to a certain cut-off date. Camino websites alternative accommodation - In German but with lots of accommodation on the Camino Frances. Click on Lodging Links to hotels in all regions Lists of Albergues Caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergues todosloscaminosdesantiago.com/caminofrances-albergues Private albergues Many private albergues can also be booked in advance Free, download leaflet with all the albergues on the Camino Frances including the Private albergues that can be reserved ahead. One can also have baggage transported to most of the private albergues.

114 Unusual ways to do the Camino Barefoot Dr. Renato Alvarado Vidal walked the Camino Frances barefoot in The surfaces are all you can imagine, with the exception of sand. I met rock, snow, mud, grass, gravel, packed earth, water streams, and a little asphalt. I don t want to be misunderstood, going barefoot is not a magical recipe, your soles must be well and long trained, the Camino is hard, in some stages very rough, with gravel similar to that used in railroads. Students walk the Camino barefoot A Filipino priest ran and walked most of the 800 km from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago barefoot. His main objective was for peace in the Philippines. Camels In the DVD The Camino is not a Bed of Roses one sees camels crossing the bridge at Puente la Reina. In 2010 a group of eight men rode camels from Valladolid to Santiago. Accompanying them was a carriage pulled by six horses. Read more here. Horse and carriage Some hardy folk have attempted to do the Camino in a horse and carriage but it is harder than one might think. You will find clips of a French couple on the Camino Frances in a horse and carriage here: Gyrocopter The Way of St James from heaven s view: A film documents the exciting real flight adventure in 2009 of Melanie and Andreas in their gyrocopter along the Way of St James from near Berlin via Aachen in Germany, across France, over the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela and further to Cape Finisterre, the most western part of Spain. Walking on behalf of another person (deceased or alive) Pilgrims may dedicate their pilgrimage to another person living or dead and have that name written on the Compostela. The Compostela is individual to the person making the pilgrimage so the Pilgrims Office will write your name in Latin and will add on behalf of (also in Latin) then the other person s name. Medieval pilgrim attire Many pilgrims, like Marcelino Lobato Castrillo from Logroño in Spain, walk the pilgrimage trails of Europe dressed in the typical attire of the 11th and 12th century pilgrims. One can see them in long dark robe, large brimmed hat, carrying a wooden staff and gourd and festooned with scallop shells. Considering that fashions obviously changed between the 10th and 16th centuries, it is curious that one only sees pilgrims emulating the early Middle Ages garb. This You Tube clip shows Marcelino in his full regalia. Penitential journey Inspired by an encounter with the Caravan of last chance of the American organisation Vision Quest, a Flemish Organisation called Oikoten decided to send two youths and a companion on a pilgrimage walk from Vézelay in France to Santiago de Compostela. The idea was to offer juvenile delinquents a last chance to rehabilitate and thereby stay out of correctional facilities. The juvenile court judge Jan Peeters Mechelen was willing to release them from the closed community institution and for those two young people the 1982 Oikoten pilgrimage was a final opportunity to redeem themselves. Against the expectations of many, the experiment was a success and since them dozens of troubled youth have walked to Santiago with a high success rate of rehabilitation. (Oikoten changed their name to Alba in 2008) Running Many long-distance trail runners have attempted to set records running the Camino Frances from Roncesvalles or St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago. We list just a few here. A failed attempt by two experienced long-distance trail runners to run the Camino Frances in 14 days: A successful run from 10th May to 22nd May Jenny ran the Camino Frances in A pilgrim s story Can angels drive cars? Jenny South Africa The day I set out to walk the 21 km from Cea to Castro Dozon via the monastery at Oseira, I lost the way twice. I d started early for me but later than most of the other pilgrims who d been in the albergue. It was after passing the Edificio Multiusos and the Santuario de Nuestra Senora de la Saleta that I began to realise that I wasn t following the same route as that described in my guide book. Stopping to decide whether to turn back or continue, a man in a tiny white van pulled up next to me, gave me a map to a bar in the next village and indicated that I would be able to get to the monastery along the road I was thinking of abandoning. The bar in Cotelas turned out to be closed and the climb up to the monastery was on a long winding tarred road through plantations of conifers. Eventually the road flattened out near a hamlet where I asked a woman hoeing a field if I was going the right way and she reassured me. The Cistercian monastery is in a narrow fold of the valley. The buildings are large and impressive. The road runs next to a high stone wall, golden under streaks of grey and blank except for a stone plaque carved with the date 1601 and a row of windows and doors opening onto little balconies near the top of the wall. Rounding the corner, you see the church and other buildings within the walls. After a café con leche grande at one of the two bars outside the monastery gates I presented myself for the tour at 11h00. The tour was conducted by a grim grey woman who groused at me in Spanish for trying

115 to take a photograph of a bizarre fountain, similar to one in the cloisters of the monastery in Samos. It has four tiers: at the top, two birds of prey with water coming out of their beaks are above some sturdy-looking putti holding cloths across their middles. Below them are women covering their breasts unlike those at Samos who brazenly reveal theirs and on the lowest level, mermaids. It was around noon when I left the monastery after having a picnic lunch of bread from Cea, tomatoes, cheese and a coke. To leave Oseira you zig-zag up a steep rocky hill on one side of the valley and the two towers of the church get smaller and smaller as you climb higher. The path eventually levels out and crosses a grassy plateau before joining a tarred road at a T-junction. On one side of the path there s a stone way-marker carved with a crook and an arrow that seemed to be pointing up the steepish hill on the other side of the road. As I stood at the crossroads wondering what to do next, a car the first one I had seen for several hours came up the road from Oseira and stopped next to me. The driver, a young man in his thirties, wound the window down. Using a combination of primitive sign language and one Spanish word camino I asked which direction I should go in. He pointed up the hill I had just walked down, acknowledged my thanks, said adios then turned the car around and drove back in the direction from which he had come! Back at the way-marker I took the only direction I hadn t already tried which was to go down the hill to the left and maybe the arrow had pointed in that direction all the time. The rest of the day was painful as I dragged my sore foot to the wooden albergue at Castro Dozon. But I had had plenty of time to reflect on how that messenger arrived exactly where and when I needed him, in the end deciding that, yes: angels can drive cars! Chapter 18 Relics and Holy Years Without relics there probably wouldn t have been any shrines, and without shrines there wouldn t have been any pilgrims, and without a relic in a reliquary casket in Santiago de Compostela, there wouldn t have been a Camino de Santiago pilgrimage! Luckily for us, relics became popular from about the 5th century and by the time of Charlemagne (8th century) no church could be consecrated without a relic. You can visit relics all over France and Spain. In this Chapter What are relics? Classes of relics Holy Years St James feast days and Holy Years Earning the indulgence The Compostela Statistics Santiago de Compostela What are relics? Relics have been described as a revered object, notably a body part or clothes belonging to a saint. In most Catholic churches you will find a relic of a saint, be it a piece of bone, a hand, an arm (sometimes a head!) or even a whole body. The most valuable and significant relic was a piece of the true cross. Spain has a number of these important relics and two of the three of the Holy Cities in Spain contain a piece of the cross. the demand for bones and body parts was so great that the practice of exhuming, dismembering, and distributing the bodies of saints became widely accepted. Amputated fingers, hands, feet, a few heads and, of course, bones circulated throughout Europe. With increase in demand, supply became a problem, and a profitable but dubious market in relics emerged. Pilgrims to the shrines did not seem to care whether the relics were genuine or not. Mark C. Taylor, Sacred Bones What did the church say about the veneration of relics? St Jerome said: (ca. A.D )... we honour the martyrs relics, so that thereby we give honour to Him whose [witness] they are: we honour the servants that the honour shown to them may reflect on their Master... In the Middle Ages the church taught that life in this world was merely a preparation for the next, be it heaven or hell. Christians were indoctrinated from an early age with the urgency to obtain divine forgiveness for their sins and the purification of their souls or face eternal damnation and an afterlife in purgatory.

116 Purgatory was depicted as a sort of half-way horror house, with terrifying demons waiting to suck the soul from your sinful body and send you to everlasting hell it was a place so terrifying that people were prepared to make incredible sacrifices to ensure a shorter stay and their place in heaven. Indulgences for the remission of time spent in purgatory were introduced around One of the surest ways to obtain indulgences for the remission of sins was by contact with the saints who could intercede on your behalf. The church encouraged the veneration of saints, and the relics of saints were believed to hold great power. If the saint was a martyr, so much the better and if he was a martyred Apostle, better still. And so people from all over the Christian world sought out the intercession of saintly relics in churches and cathedrals all over Europe. What can the modern pilgrims to Santiago see in the way of relics as they walk across Spain to venerate the relics of St James that lie in his silver casket in the crypt of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela? Classes of relics There are different classes of relics some holier than others. First class: part of the Saint (bone, hair, etc.) and the instruments of Christ s passion. Second class: something owned by the saint or instruments of torture used against a martyr. Third class: something that has been touched by a first or second class relic. You can make your own third class relics facilitating the touching of an object to a first or second class relic, including the tomb of a saint. Although hundreds of metal relics in Spain were melted down and turned into coins to pay the troops that fought against Napoleon, many survived and can be seen in Reliquary Chapels in most of the great churches and cathedrals of Spain. The list is far from complete. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of other relics fragments of bone, wood, fabric, hair, thorns, nails, bread crumbs, etc. tucked away in capillas, reliquaries and altars in the churches and cathedrals of Spain. San Juan de la Pena: Gilded silver urn contains the relics of San Indelcio Relics of St Felix and St Voto (San Juan used to house the Holy Grail now in Valencia) Roncesvalles: 14th century Gothic reliquary that contains bones from more than 30 saints. 15th century reliquary carved to look like a saint s arm. 16th century gold reliquary with two thorns from Jesus crown of thorns. Pamplona: 14th century reliquary with a fragment of the cross sent to Carlos 111 en Noble from Paris in In 1400 Emperor Manuel Palæologus gave to the Church of Pamplona a particle of the wood of the true cross and another of the reputed blue vestment of Our Lord and the Holy Sepulchre; these relics are preserved in the cathedral. Estella: Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua: Fragment of the true cross and a shoulder bone of San Andrés. Santo Domingo del Calzada: Numerous reliquaries containing fragments of bone, cloth, etc. Logroño: A chest bearing the relics of San Millán (11th century), decorated with ivory plaques, gold and precious stones, and the chest of San Felices (11th century), with Romanesque bas reliefs carved in ivory.

117 Burgos: Capilla de las reliquias Burgos Bones from most of the apostles and many other saints. The Black Christ by Nicodemus. Santo Cristo de Burgos, an image of Christ crucified, from the 14th century. Five small relics of the Holy Cross of Christ, brought from Santo Toribio de Liébana in Cantabria. A shrine of the Apostle Santiago, as well as many other relics of saints and santas. Léon: San Isidoro s 11th century wood and silver plate reliquary. Urn reliquary with the remains of St Isidoro. Plateresque silver chest with San Froilan s relics. Enamelled reliquaries with fragment of the true cross. the Triumph of the Holy Cross (14 September). A sandal worn by Pope St Peter the Apostle Other relics Segovia: Tiny silver frames with bone fragments. S. Valerianni, S. Crescenty, S. Severus, S. Clementis, Sta Felicissima, S. Celiani, S. Cosmas; S. Cyrill S. Celia. S. Modestiy S. Celestiy S. Vasil S. Iago (yes, they also have a piece of our saint): Santa Ana, Madre de la Virgen Santa Catalina: Santa Ana Madalena; Apostle Bartholomew; Apostle Philip; Saint Nicholas of Myra; Saint Frutos and his sister Engratia; the head of Saint Frutos. Santo Toribio of Liébana: Not on the Camino, but a very important relic in Spain. In the Monastery of Santo Toribio of Liébana there is the relic of the Lignum Crucis, the largest surviving fragment of Christ s cross. The monastery was founded in Mount Viorna in the 6th century, although the current church is from the 13th century. Santo Toribio, along with Jerusalem, Rome, Santiago de Compostela and Caravaca de la Cruz is one of the five Christian Holy Cities. Holy Years Five Holy Cities In Catholic Christianity there are five Holy Cities that celebrate a Jubilee or Holy Year three of these are in Spain. The Holy Cities are Jerusalem, Rome, Santiago de Compostela, Liebana, and the youngest, Caravaca de la Cruz (Town of the Cross). Santiago: Cathedral: Tomb and relics of St James. Chapel of San Fernando: Reliquary containing the skull of James the Less. Capilla del Relicario: Two thorns from the crown of thorns. Camino del Norte y Primitivo Oviedo: Cathedral of Oviedo: Five thorns (formerly eight) from the crown of thorns. A fragment of the true cross. A cloth said to be Jesus shroud or a grave cloth used to bind Our Lord s mouth during His entombment, which is now used to bless the people every Good Friday as well as each Feast of The origin of the Christian Jubilee This goes back to biblical times. The Law of Moses prescribed a special year for the Jewish people: You shall hallow the fiftieth year and proclaim the liberty throughout the land, to all its inhabitants; it shall be a Jubilee for you when each of you shall return to his property and each of you shall return to his family. This fiftieth year is to be a Jubilee year for you: you will not sow, you will not harvest the un-gathered corn; you will not gather the untrimmed vine. The Jubilee is to be a holy thing to you; you will eat what comes from the fields. (The Book of Leviticus 25:10 14) The trumpet with which this particular year was announced was a goat s horn called Yobel in Hebrew, and the origin of the word jubilee. The celebration of this year also included the restitution of land to the original owners, the remission of debts, the liberation of slaves and the land was left fallow. In the New Testament, Jesus presents himself as the One who brings the old Jubilee to completion, because he has come to preach the year of the Lord s favour (Isaiah 61:1 2).

118 St James feast days On the eve of St James day (24 July) a magnificent firework display is held on the Obradoiro facade of the cathedral called the Fuego Del Apostol. An impressive statue of St James as a warrior is taken from the cathedral and carried through the streets. Further celebrations are held to commemorate the removal of the remains to Spain on 30 December. The first Santiago Holy Year It was thought that the first Holy Jacobean Year was in However, there is now some dispute and academics are not in agreement about this date. In the early Middle Ages the 30 December was St James feast day, based on the old Hispanic (Mozarabic) rite. In the 11th century King Alfonso VI abolished the Hispanic rite in favour of the Roman rite and 25 July became the principal feast day to commemorate the martyrdom of St James. The so-called grant of a Jubilee to Compostela by Pope Callistus II in the year 1119, ratified in 1179 by Pope Alexander III to confirm this as a perpetual bull by Regis Aeterni, has been put in quarantine by some historians. They propose a later origin suggesting that the Jubilee in Santiago did not start until the first half of the 15th century. They argue that this Jubilee Holy Year was born imitating the successful Roman Holy Year which was celebrated for first time in 1300 as a response to Pope Boniface VIII s spontaneous demand that special thanks be given to the thousands and thousands of pilgrims who visited Rome in that landmark year at the change of the century. 30 December was incorporated into the present liturgical calendar as the Feast of the Translation of his relics. And, just to confuse matters further, although we celebrate his feast day on 25 July using the Roman Rite calendar, it was formerly on 5 August on the Tridentine Rite calendar. Whenever St James day 25 July falls on a Sunday, the cathedral declares a Holy or Jubilee Year. With leap years, a Holy Year falls every 6, 5, 6 and 11 years: the most recent ones were 1982, 1993, 1999, 2004 and The Puerta Santa (Holy Door), which gives access to the cathedral from the Plaza de la Quintana is opened on 31 December on the eve of each Holy Year, and walled up again a year later. As in the past, pilgrims reaching Santiago during a Holy Year, and fulfilling the conditions for it, are granted a plenary indulgence. The plenary indulgence is given, not only in Holy Years, but also in ordinary years on Easter Sunday; 21 April (the anniversary of the consecration of the cathedral); and on St James three feast days (25 July, 30 December and 23 May).

119 There are essentially two positions on the origin of Compostela Jubilee Years. They are summarized through the work of two of the few experts who have been concerned with this issue, trying to throw light on it, though from differing viewpoints Jesus Precedo Lafuente is former Dean of the Cathedral of Santiago, and was responsible for leading the organization of several Holy Years in Compostela in the second half of the 20th century. He argues that Aeterni Regis, following the Bull (1179) of Pope Alexander III, the first Jubilee was held in Santiago in (Jesus Precedo Lafuente, Origin and Significance of the Year Santae Compostela: Pilgrim s Guide Calixtino Salamanca, Fundación Caixa Galicia, A Coruña, 1993, p. 20) Fernando López Alsina, Compostela professor and the historian who has studied this question more thoroughly, suggests a later origin, positing that the first Compostela Holy Year was not held until 1428 or Only since 1434, and throughout the rest of the 15th century, can we follow the regular celebration of the Compostela Holy Year at planned intervals of 6, 5, 6, 11 years. (Fernando Lopez Alsi, Romans and Holy Years, Compostela Holy Years in Santigo, Rome, Jerusalem Proceedings of the Third Congress Jacobean-International Studies Caucci, Paolo, ed. Xunta de Galicia, Santigo de Compostela, 1999, p. 235) The truth is that only since the 15th century can we follow the ceremony of the Jubilees regularly in Compostela. They have occurred since that period, with characteristics close to those present when the festival of the apostle James the Great, falls on a Sundays. In this case, reference to the Holy Year of 1434, the first of which there is a strong historical record, means that up to the year 2000 a total of 82 Compostela Jubilees have been celebrated. Those who advocate an earlier Jubilee based on the bull Aetterni Regis have at least 119 Holy Years up to The next Holy Year will be in This will be the 120th Jubilee Year and the third of this century. In 1885 and 1886, two consecutive years Holy Years were held after an extraordinary decision by Pope Leo XII to celebrate the confirmation of the authenticity of the remains of St James, which were rediscovered after being misplaced for 300 years. The Holy Year of 1937 was extended to 1938 as a result of the division in Ireland between Catholics during the Civil War. Holy Years since Earning the indulgence Obtaining a plenary indulgence became a dominant motivation for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Most pilgrims went in the Holy Years. Visits to St James in Santiago also offered generous indulgences. A 13th century catalogue, echoed in 1456 by the British pilgrim William Wey, records these indulgences: * for making the trip to Compostela: remission of a third of one s sins; if you die on the road, total remission. * for taking part in each religious procession in the city of Compostela: 40 days indulgences; if the procession is led by a mitred bishop, 200 days more. * if the procession is that of July 24th: 600 days. * hearing mass at which an archbishop, dean or cardinal officiates 200 days and for hearing mass at the Monte de Gozo 100 days. The plenary indulgence is still granted to those who visit the cathedral and the tomb of the Apostle at any time during a Holy Year, make their confession, attend Mass, pray for the intentions of the Holy Father, and undertake some charitable work (this can include a charitable donation). The indulgence may also be gained on behalf of the dead. Conditions are: 1) To visit the Cathedral, where the Tomb of St James the Great lies. 2) To recite a prayer (such as the Creed or the Lord s Prayer praying for His Holiness the Pope). It is recommended to attend the Pilgrims Mass. 3) To receive the Sacraments of Confession (it may be 15 days before or after) and Communion. Both are responsible for the conversion and the compromise of love to Jesus and our brothers. This is the heritage of St James. Pilgrims who walk for reasons other than religious/spiritual are given a different certificate at the Pilgrim s Office. The Compostela The Compostela is not to be confused with an indulgence. Anyone who walks the last 100 km or cycles the last 200 km can earn a Compostela. Only Catholics, complying with the conditions can earn the indulgence. The Compostela is merely a certificate. The indulgence is proof of remission of temporal sin sins that have already been forgiven. One does not have to walk to Santiago to earn an indulgence. Translation of the Compostela certifcate The Chapter of this Holy Apostolic Metropolitan Cathedral of St James, custodian of the seal of St James Altar, to all faithful and pilgrims who come from everywhere over the world as an act of devotion, under vow or promise to the Apostle s Tomb, our Patron and Protector of Spain, witnesses in the sight of all who read this document, that: Mr has visited devoutly this Sacred Church in a religious sense (pietatis causa). Witness whereof I hand this document over to him, authenticated by the seal of this Sacred Church. Given in St James de Compostela on the (day) (month)... A.D.... Chapter Secretary.

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121 Statistics The Pilgrim Office attached to the cathedral in Santiago issues regular statistics on the number of pilgrims who are received at the office. You can read up-to-date monthly statistics and statistics from 2004 here: peregrinossantiago.es Holy Years Statistics from 1985 to 2010 Year No. of Pilgrims Year No. of Pilgrims 1985/ , statistics In the 2010 Holy Year, 272,703 pilgrims were received at the Pilgrim s Office. (The number of pilgrims in the 2004 Holy Year was ) Method (87.31%) pilgrims arrived on foot (12.22%) by bicycle (0.45%) on horseback 37 (0.01%) in wheelchairs Age pilgrims were younger than 30 years old (29.33%) were between 30 and 60 years old (58.17%) were aged above 60 years old (12.5%) Gender (55.67%) were men (44.33%) were women Motivation Religious: (54.59%) Religious and cultural: (40.37%) Cultural: (5.04%) Nationality Spain: (69.14%) Foreigners: (30.86%) Germany: (17.22%) Italy: (16.92%) France: (10.87%) Portugal: (9.24%) UK: (3.93%) Ireland: (2.75%) Brazil: (2.54%) Holland: (2.48%) Starting points: Most of the pilgrims started their Way to Santiago in: Sarria: (24.86%) Cebreiro: (8.11%) Tui: (6.62%) St Jean Pied de Port: (6.55%) Roncesvalles: (5.00%) Ponferrada: (4.70%) León: (4.29%) Astorga: (2.71%) Chosen routes: Camino Frances: (69.48%) Portuguese-Camino: (12.58%) Norte-Camino de: (6.60%)

122 Via de la Plata: (5.23%) Primitivo-Camino: (2.83%) The Patron Saint of Pilgrims Saint Bona of Pisa ( ) was a nun who led travellers on pilgrimages, mainly the thousand-mile journey to Santiago. She was made an official guide by the Knights of Santiago after leading nine groups of pilgrims to Santiago. She died in 1207, shortly after making her tenth journey. Her feast day is on 29 May. She was canonised by Pope John XXIII as patron saint of pilgrims, pilgrimages, flight attendants and couriers. Santiago de Compostela You made it!! The destination of all Camino trails is the tomb of Sant Iago in the town named after him. You ve collected your Compostela, attended mass in the great cathedral, hugged the saint and paid your respects to his tomb in the crypt below the altar. Now you have a day or two to explore this wonderful, medieval city. There is more to the cathedral than the interior. Take a tour of the roof, visit the Pilgrim museum, take a nocturnal walking tour of the old quarter including a visit to the cloisters of the Parador and experience a Quiemada at midnight in a local pub! Take a bus ride to Finisterre or keep walking to the End of the World. Ah, said Tomas, knowingly, es un angel. I saw him (I think he may have been French) pass me the next morning and heard no more about him. No one else I encountered had ever seen him. Now, Manjarin at the best of times is a place to set your imagination wandering, but... Falcon After passing a small town, I looked back for a Kodak moment. There was a break in the rain, and I was willing to pull out my camera from its rain protection. In glancing back, I saw a chapel and wondered to myself how I had missed it walking through the town. After turning around fully and fumbling for the camera, there was no chapel in the skyline of the town. There was not even a building taller than the others to stand out. I can only speculate that parallel universes suddenly coincided and light from another universe suddenly escaped into this one. The chapel exists in the other one, but not in this one. Pilgrims stories Rebekah Moratinos There s a tale in my town, Moratinos, of a mysterious pilgrim who appeared one night during the hard days of the Civil War, when a local boy was being beaten-up out on the trail by some bad guys. The pilgrim came out of the bodega hillside and stopped the beating, and took the boy to safety at the corner house on the plaza. The pilgrim returned to the bodega (a hillside that s been tunnelled-out for wine storage, where pilgrims used to sleep out of the rain in the doorways.) He was not seen again. What made it unusual was that during those years NOBODY dared make the pilgrimage, as outsiders were immediately dealt with. And NOBODY would dare intervene in a beating done by the guys in the green car.... They were out there dumping the body of a suspected Communist sympathiser. The rescued boy grew up to tell the tale, and his family still keeps a holy card plastered into the wall of their bodega. But some people in town think it s all a load of bull, or say they ve never heard of any of it. So who knows? Tracy When I walked my first Camino, I was staying at Manjarin and very late at night a bicycle pilgrim came in. He sat by the fire and spoke to no one. I was told his name and that he had cycled from Jerusalem on a very old bicycle. He had, apparently, taken a vow of silence and carried a notebook. If he thinks you deserve an answer, he will write you one. This provoked some conversation. One man had walked with someone who had taken a picture of this enigmatic pilgrim which, once the film had developed, had not come out.

123 A pilgrim s story A Road to Salvation by Anthony J Curnow The Camino de Santiago is most commonly known by pilgrims simply as The Way. This is a reflection on my journey. No laptop, no mobile phone, no mp3 to entertain, nothing but the most comfortable pair of shoes and two sets of the best light weight clothing I could find. We (a good mate and I) had chosen to do the way as rough, or as traditional as we could, depending on how you wanted to look at it. Assessing the feasibility of recharging electronics on the way, it almost made our minds up for us, and as a result the only electronic device we left with was a digital camera to capture some of the finest moments of the experience, and a few extra batteries as backup. That was the extent of our modern comforts, which are all too common in the backpackers of this millennium. I felt old school, often envying travellers of the 70 s whose freedom to explore led them on the Hippy Trail travelling the expanse overland from Europe to Asia. Donning only the basic of necessities, which comprised of Tiger Balm for aches and pains, a journal to jot down my thoughts and a water bottle, we started walking. Head and face shaven to prevent the need for razors and shave cream (again cutting just milligrams off the weight I carried); I had taken years off my already youthful appearance. I was about three days fresher than the bread we were to eat that first night, which accompanied what was to become a popular meal for pilgrims - lentil soup. As we headed into the Pyrenees on our first day, the hike up was by no means easy, my mind was plagued by the discomfort and weight of my pack, and in many ways my preoccupation with such important things this early in the game ensured my success not only at the beginning, but also long term in reaching the end of the very long road. Life on the way is simple. Wake up early, start walking, rest under a tree, stop at a café for a coffee and croissant, lunch under a different tree of cheese and ham with bread, then the next town you would pass through is often where you might make the decision to stop. You follow the signs or the trail of people to the local Refugio where you sign in for the night, and receive your next stamp in your Pilgrim s Passport. Having walked roughly 20-25km, you are weary, so a cold beer (Mahou or San Mig) is essential, then siesta, write in your journal, communal dinner with fellow pilgrims, sleep. Between nearly every one of those events, attention is made to your feet. They are your mode of transport and must be cared for. Bathing them in every cool running stream, massaging them, and tending to some savage blisters that have developed, ingrown toenails and other bizarre abnormalities becomes part of day to day routine. I love and appreciate my feet like you wouldn t believe. With each day, boredom didn t invade me as I would have suspected, with the simpler life comes a simpler approach. I began to notice the smallest of flowers and insects on the roadside and hours could be spent pushing oneself in an attempt to catch the person who is as small as an ant on the distant horizon. Crops such as almonds, avocado, olives, beetroot, potatoes, beans and local specialties such as white asparagus and grape vines which stretched endlessly over the landscape contours, also added endless entertainment as the desire to eat fresh from the land prevailed. Necessities appeared to be fewer each day, as an hour here and there visualising and assessing every piece of kit in my pack was yet another form of entertainment. Along with these various styles of self amusement, the time allowed for conscious thoughts to be trained. I had read about walking meditations and methods of focusing the mind prior to leaving Australia, and as a result I had prepared myself by taking with me some meditative phrases and prayers. I read these repeatedly on some of my loneliest of days, attempting to make sense of each word, and in turn seeking a higher level of self awareness. With each step I took, another revelation was conquered after hours of circular thought. With each revelation I made I was one step closer to my own apparent salvation, and even closer to the final destination Santiago de Compostela in north western Spain. Having passed through the rolling hills of Navarra and Rioja in northern Spain, where good red wine is famous for maintaining good health along the way, we reached the Meseta. This second part of the Camino from Logroño to Léon, passes over a massive flat plateau with an elevation of around 800m above sea level. Each day is blistering hot, dry and dusty with vivid blue skies offset by the yellow browning wheat fields that stretch as far as the eye can see. The rich blue sky is reminiscent of the intensity one experiences in County Vistoria (Australia), and as such I felt comfortingly at home. For many people this part of the walk is very difficult, with authors such as Shirley Mclaine documenting her peculiar hallucinogenic experiences across these vast expanses. It was certainly a turning point in the Camino, where those limited by time (and the suffering ones) frequently spent a rest day or two on a bus, ridding their overall experience of what makes the Camino ever so special. It is a walk of contrast, and to appreciate the best bits, the microcosms of purity in both landscape and the people you meet, you must walk the Meseta. Lips cracked, the hot baking sun beaming down on my sun brown skin, the sticky tar of the molten road began to wear the soles of my shoes down quicker than one would have expected. Respite on the Meseta was few and far between, with the small amount of shade provided by large hay bales or a lone tree on the roadside and the opportunity to break, openly welcomed. Being the peak of summer, many streams had run dry and the opportunity to wade ones feet in cool running water was uncommon. In coming across irrigation channels, we stripped our sore sweat wrinkled feet from our smelly boots and socks to let the current of the water take their weight. The feeling of weightlessness was euphoric, no longer did it feel like the sun and the earth s gravity was trying to push you into the dusty white gravel of the pilgrim s path. The toll not only on the body but the mind begins to kick in as you begin to question your own sanity; or insanity depending on your perspective. I began to wonder if I am actually getting any closer as the road to my right is not changing, the path I am walking on doesn t change colour and the thousands of London Plane trees (I tried counting ) which have been strategically planted every 15m to provide shade for the pilgrims are young, and all look the same, sending me in and out of shade every seven or so steps. The angle of the sun cast a shadow in front of me in the mornings as I walked westward to the end of the world. Some days the sun appeared to change angle, sending me seemingly in the wrong direction, as the path and the shells which are representative of the Camino, reassuringly guided me on my way. Sitting down on a baking concrete stoop out the front of a square concrete house, I worked on my walking stick, cutting the bark from the cambium, carefully shaping an elaborate pattern into my very own staff. For the five days following, the ceremonial staff carving sessions with the mate I was travelling with went on, we cared for our staffs as much as we cared for one another. They were our new best friends, something to entertain us and something that made us happy with each step made with them in our palm. They were a symbol of our own fragile states - they were everything that I was no longer; sturdy, strong and it served a functional purpose. I was lost, taken over by the journey and confused as to my purpose for walking the Camino, so distracted by my own thoughts I was, that I left my best friend (the staff, and the other one) behind... Having met up and broken off more than once with numerous other pilgrims, hearing the phrase Buen Camino! come from the lips of a fellow peregrine was always reassuring. We were all in this journey together, albeit walking for different reasons. The companionship and kindness that is evident along the way is reminiscent of what the Camino is all about, and it is this which drove me on my way to reach Santiago de Compostela. On arrival to the big city, it was somewhat overwhelming, and yet again the experience of reaching the final destination is different for everyone. Many pilgrims commonly feel an anticlimax of reaching the end after many long

124 weeks of walking. This anticlimactic feeling leads them to ask what next?, and the answer to this was to often keep walking until they reached the Atlantic sea, some 100km further. I myself was done, my Camino was finished and I was happy to stop walking. I had set myself a personal challenge of reaching Santiago de Compostela, and I had reached that. I was no longer a lost withering soul, and had many things to look forward to. I went on to have one of the best years of my life. The Camino is a special and life altering experience while in some ways it might be said to be a very selfish exercise. You will invariably meet up with similar people each day, but you should never expect to see them in the morning. Some days, they would just disappear for whatever reason. Every pilgrim had their own story, and this is not something that was as openly discussed as I would have imagined. Having said this, I can understand why this was so. We were all battling our own demons within, but knew that the pilgrim both in front and behind you, albeit a stranger, was a friend. There is unspoken compassion and empathy on the way which is uncompromisingly forgiving. Yes, we all had days of selfishness, but all in all, this one long difficult experience was a pinnacle moment, a turning point in our lives which would shape our future. Appendix 1 The rise, the fall and revival of the pilgrimage to St James and the rise of The Camino The modern day walk to Santiago is a fairly recent tradition (as recent as the 1980s) and the perception that there is a thousand-year tradition of pilgrims walking to the tomb of St James in Spain is inaccurate, historically. The pilgrimage to Santiago saw only around 300 years of glorious heydays. Starting in the 10th century and reaching a peak in the 12th and 13th centuries, there was a sharp decline from the 14th century, and about 400 years of extremely lean days thereafter. When the relics of the saint were lost in 1589 pilgrims stopped coming in any number and stayed away for almost 400 years. By the Holy Year of 1867 St James shrine was all but forgotten and only 44 pilgrims attended Mass on his feast day that year (Cordla Rabe). Only after the remains were relocated, and authenticated in 1884, did the masses start returning to Compostela this time by boat, bus, train and car. (It would take another 100 years for pilgrims to start walking to the shrine.) As for walking pilgrims, it wasn t until the late 1970s and 1980s that efforts were made to rediscover and restore the old pilgrimage trails to Santiago. Once this was achieved, pilgrims started walking to Santiago again in ever-increasing numbers. However, pilgrims to Santiago are now perceived as two distinct groups those who walk or ride to Santiago and those who arrive by other conveyances. Walking the Camino, especially trying to imitate the mendicant pilgrim of a thousand years ago by staying in the most basic accommodation, eating frugal meals, carrying a heavy pack and not taking any transport has become a new status symbol. Of course, this only applies to walking one-way. Unlike the medieval counterpart, who had to walk all the way back home, nearly all pilgrims return home by plane, trains or automobiles! Taking a bus or car to Compostela to visit the Saint is considered passé by walking pilgrims rendering one almost unworthy of the title pilgrim. 814 the beginning The martyrdom of St James is written in the Bible in Acts 12 of the New Testament. (No mention of Spain, stone boats, angels or starry fields. That is the domain of legends.) The story of the discovery of the burial site of St James the Greater around 814 is well known. From the time the remains were authenticated by the church, an ever-growing stream of pilgrims started trekking to his tomb. In those early days, before the introduction of indulgences for the remission of sins circa (coinciding with the first Crusade), people travelled by sea and land to visit the tombs and shrines of the saints out of curiosity, respect and to be in the presence of something holy. No real thought of rewards. The rise and fall 12th to 14th centuries: Once earning an indulgence for the remission of sins and time spent in purgatory was thrown into the mix, pilgrimage became all the rage which soon led to corruption and fraud with shrines competing to attract pilgrims with false relics and outrageous indulgences of thousands of years. The heydays of the Santiago pilgrimage reached their peak in the 12th and 13th centuries

125 mainly because pilgrimage to Jerusalem was blocked by the Turks and Rome became a political battlefield but by the 14th century pilgrimage began to decline all over Europe due to wars, a growing split in the church and the Black Death. 1517: Around the time of the start of the Reformation, and the spread of Protestantism, pilgrimage and the veneration of relics became unpopular and were banned in many countries. Many churches and cathedrals were destroyed or abandoned. 1589: The relics of St James were moved and hidden to prevent a possible attack by Frances Drake and were forgotten for almost 300 years! It s not surprising that the number of pilgrims to Santiago dried up almost completely. With no body to venerate it would be almost 400 years before they started to arrive again in any numbers. In 1590 the Castilian parliament proposed that St Teresa of Avila become co-patron saint of Spain with Santiago. It seemed St James star was on the wane and pilgrimage to his tomb slowed to a trickle. 1759: The mid-18th century again saw a marked decline in the number of pilgrims [to Santiago]. The scientific and industrial revolution in the 19th century also rendered the pilgrimage obsolete in the rest of Europe. Antti Lahelma 1820: The Spanish Civil War of further prevented pilgrims from visiting Santiago and, in the whole of the 19th century less than pilgrims visited Santiago most from the areas around Santiago, and the majority of those arrived in the Holy Years. Don Jose Ignacio Diaz Perez 1867: In the Holy Year of 1867 just 40 pilgrims turned up for the celebrated mass on 25th July. Cordla Rabe 1879: Something had to be done. A search for the relics was launched in 1879 and they were eventually found between the walls of the apse. In 1884 a Papal Bull from Pope Leo X111declared them to be genuine (which silenced the sceptics) and there was a growing revival in the number of visitors. 1886: P. Fidel Fita rediscovered the Codex Calixtinus (a copy of the so-called Pilgrims Guide that never was) after it had been lost for centuries. This was fortuitous timing as it spurred historic research into the pilgrimage routes to Santiago just when interest in the shrine was being revived. The revival 1900: After the re-discovery and authentication of the saint s relics, pilgrim visitors started flocking to Santiago once again and there was a steady rise in the numbers especially in the Holy Years. But, the old trail routes remained overgrown and forgotten and the number of people walking to Santiago was so insignificant that no records were kept of their arrival. (The following numbers of visitors to Santiago in Holy Years is from: de.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Heiliges_Compostelanisches_Jahr) million million (491 Compostelas) million (243 Compostelas) Recording the numbers of pilgrims who arrived on foot, horseback or bicycle was resumed in Santiago de Compostela from 1953 but the records from before 1970 have been lost. The late Don Jaime of Santiago s cathedral found an old record book kept by his predecessor, which showed that in 1967 there were 37 pilgrims and in 1971, which was a Holy Year, 491 pilgrims. An article in the New York Times (dated 16 August 1965) about the 1965 Holy Year describes the atmosphere in the cathedral as thousands of pilgrims, who arrived from all over Europe in buses and cars, lined up to kiss the stone-sculptured head of the apostle at whose tomb they had come to pray. The 50 miles of road between La Coruña and Santiago was crowded with huge tourist buses and cars. (No mention of people having walked there). There were always a hardy few, nostalgic Catholics, medievalists or other academics, who tried to find the old pilgrimage trails to Santiago and reach it by means other than by car or bus. In 1917 Georgiana Goddard King completed The Way of St James, a three-volume work tracing the pilgrimage trails to the shrine of St James, based on her journeys on foot, donkey cart, mule and other transportation Dr Walter Starkie made the pilgrimage through France and Spain on foot, by car and bus four times from 1924 to In his classic book The Road to Santiago he makes many references to the work of G.G. King. In Pilgrim Stories Nancy Frey wrote: Beginning in the 1950s and the 1960s the pilgrimage developed as a touristic and cultural way called the Camino de Santiago based on political reconstruction and a budding nostalgia for preserving medieval European patrimony. During the portion of its current revitalisation performance of the journey was not paramount. This observation is supported by the figures which show that in the 1965 Holy Year the number of visitor pilgrims more than doubled (2.5 million) compared with in the 1954 Holy Year, but walking to Santiago was still not an important criterion (the journey was not important) but the destination was. This still holds true for the other great Christian shrines like Jerusalem or Rome and the more modern Marian shrines of Lourdes, Fatima and Guadalupe (the most visited shrine after Rome). The rise of el Camino late 1970s The resurrection and promotion of the old trails to Santiago can be attributed mainly to Don Elias Valina Sampedro of O Cebreiro parish a dedicated priest and scholar who devoted over 30 years of his life to the restoration of the Camino as a pilgrimage trail. In 1967 he wrote his doctoral thesis on The Road of St James: A Historical and Legal Study. Linda Davidson and David Gitlitz walked to Santiago five times between 1974 and 1996 accompanying groups of college student-pilgrims on academic medieval study programmes. On their first trek in 1974 they did not meet even one other pilgrim. In 1979 the only other pilgrim they encountered was an elderly Frenchman who was fulfilling a vow made in the Second World War.

126 They wrote in their book The Pilgrimages Road to Santiago, To most people in the 1970s the pilgrimages road was hardly more than a vague memory of a historical relic. 1982: Don Elias published his guide for walking the Camino trails to Santiago. In total pilgrims received the Compostela, but this was mainly due to the visit of Pope John Paul II. 1985: This was a pivotal year for The Camino pilgrimage trail. At a gathering in Santiago in 1985 Don Elias was entrusted with the co-ordination of all the resources for the Camino. Refugios were established and he was the first to mark the way with yellow arrows, begging for yellow paint from the departments of roads. Also in 1985 UNESCO declared the city of Santiago de Compostela a World Heritage Site. 1987: El Camino de Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage trail is named the first European Cultural Itinerary. 1989: Pope John Paul II visited Santiago again (and sadly, Don Elias passed away). In this year, Compostelas were issued. 1993: The Camino Frances is named a World Heritage Site. Exponential growth: From then on there was an exponential growth in the number of pilgrims walking and riding to Santiago, and those earning the Compostela certificate a junp from in the 1989 Holy Year to in the 1993 Holy Year. (The Pilgrim s Office estimates that only one in five pilgrims walking the Camino actually walk to Santiago and request the Compostela.) Compostela numbers (54.7% had a purely religious motive) The rise of el Camino: Reconstruction of The Camino as we know it today only began in the late 1970s and 1980s with a dedicated priest, a group of hard working volunteers with a few tins of yellow paint, and the formation of Camino interest groups. These events, coinciding with the advent of Internet and the World Wide Web in the 1990s, saw the numbers of people visiting Santiago explode, with exponential growth into the 21st century. Millions of pilgrim visitors still journey to the tomb of St James every year 12 million in the 2010 Holy Year. The focus and goal of these pilgrims hasn t changed to venerate St James the Greater. Unlike these pilgrim visitors, however, you will rarely hear today s walking or cycling pilgrims say I am making a pilgrimage to the tomb of St James of Compostela. Most of them say, I am doing the Camino and It s not the destination that counts, it s the journey. So, for the majority of walking pilgrims today the Camino itself has become the destination not St James. Appendix 2 Spanish Tourism Offices Argentina Oficina Española de Turismo Carlos Pellegrini Buenos Aires 1009 Telephone: Fax: buenosaires@tourspain.es Austria Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Wien Walfischgasse 8 (Mzz)Vienna Telephone: Fax: viena@tourspain.es Belgium Office Espagnol de Tourisme Rue Royale 97 5 Brussels 1000 Telephone: Fax: bruselas@tourspain.eshttp:// Canada Tourist Office of Spain 2 Bloor Street West, Suite 3402 TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2 Telephone: Fax: toronto@tourspain.es Denmark Den Spanske Stats Turistbureau Ny Østergade 34, København K Telephone: Fax: copenhague@tourspain.es Finland Espanjan Valtion Matkailutoimisto Mechelininkatu 12-14Helsinki Telephone: Fax: helsinki@tourspain.es France Office Espagnol du Tourisme 43, Rue Decamps75784 Paris Cedex 16 Telephone: Fax: paris@tourspain.es

127 Germany/Berlin Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Kurfürstendamm, Berlin Telephone: , Fax: Germany/Düsseldorf Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Grafenberger Allee, 100 Kutscherhaus Düsseldorf Telephone: Fax: dusseldorf@tourspain.es Germany/Frankfurt Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Myliusstrasse 14Frankfurt Telephone: Fax: frankfurt@tourspain.es Germany/Munich Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Schuberstrasse 10Munich Telephone: Fax: munich@tourspain.es Italy/Milano Ufficio Spagnolo del Turismo Via Broletto, 30Milano Telephone: Fax: milan@tourspain.es Italy/Roma Ufficio Spagnolo del Turismo Via del Mortaro 19-interno 5 Rome Telephone: , Fax: roma@tourspain.es Japan Tourist Office of Spain Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 6F ToranomonMinato-KuTokyo 105 Telephone: Fax: tokio@tourspain.es/ Mexico Oficina Española de Turismo Alejandro Dumas, Colonia Polanco11560 Mexico DF Telephone: Fax: mexico@tourspain.es Netherlands Spanish Tourism Board Laan Van Meerdervoor 8 The Hague 2517 Telephone: Fax: lahaya@tourspain.es Norway Spanske Ambassade Turistavdelingen Kronprinsensgate, OSLO Telephone: Fax: oslo@tourspain.es Portugal Delegação Oficial do Turismo Espanhol Av. Sidónio Pais, 28-3 Dto LISBOA Telephone: or Fax: lisboa@tourspain.es Russia Tourist Office of Spain Embassy of Spain Tverskaya - 16/2 Business Center Galeria aktor, 6th floor MOSCOW Telephone: Fax: moscu@tourspain.es Singapore National Tourist Office of Spain 541 Orchard Road#09-04 Liat Towers Singapore Telephone: Fax: singapore@tourspain.es Sweden Spanska Ambassadens Informationsavdelning Stureplan Stockholm Telephone: Fax: estocolmo@tourspain.es Switzerland/Geneva Office Espagnol du Tourisme 15, Rue Ami-Lévrier, 2 CH-1201 GENEVE Telephone: Fax: ginebra@tourspain.es Switzerland/Zurich Spanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt Seefeldstrasse, 19CH 8008 Zürich Telephone: Fax: zurich@tourspain.es

128 UK Spanish National Tourist Office Manchester Square London W1U 3PX Telephone: Telephone: Brochure Request Line (60p/minute) Fax: USA/California Tourist Office of Spain 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960 Beverly Hills, CA Telephone: Fax: USA/Florida Tourist Office of Spain 1221 Brickell Avenue, suite 1850Miami FL Telephone: Fax: USA/Illinois Tourist Office of Spain Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East845 North Michigan Ave.Chicago, IL Telephone: Fax: USA/New York Tourist Office of Spain 666 Fifth Avenue, 35th Fl.New York NY Teleph Fax: Appendix 3 Training Programme Even if you are used to running or walking half and full marathons, it is a completely different thing to walk a half marathon day after day in all weathers, with a laden backpack on your back. I ve heard people say, I work standing all day so walking should be a breeze. Don t be fooled! Without putting in some regular training you might be one of the statistics that doesn t make it to Santiago because of blisters, shin splints or tendonitis. Start on a course of supplements and a calcium rich diet weeks before you go. This will help to build up your bones so that overuse doesn t result in stress fractures. Buy a skipping rope and have fun skipping like the boxers do. Any weight bearing, impact exercise will stimulate osteoblasts to lay down strong bones. Start training shorter distances then build up to a similar distance that you plan to walk on the Camino. Your feet might be feel fine after walking for 10 km or even 15 km but it could be that they start to swell after 20 km and it is only then that you will know if your shoes were the right size and fit. Learn how to prevent blisters and hot spots from becoming blisters. Walk back-to-back days perhaps over a long weekend so that you know what your feet feel like after walking three long distance days in a row. This should reveal any problems you might encounter with shoes/boots, clothing and backpack. Try carrying your water in bottles or a hydration bladder and decide which sizes will be best for you on the Camino. Here is a 16-week, long distance training programme from the Do it for Charity Website. Programme notes The 16-week programme is a rough training guide. Obviously with work and family commitments you may not always be able to achieve what we have set out for you. However, in order to get close to achieving the training it is very important to organise your time properly. There are plenty of ways to ensure that you maximise your training, even if you feel you have no time outside work. You must organise your week to make time to get out to do some training. Get up an hour earlier and go out for a quick walk with some stretching in the morning before work, while it is still light. If you can walk to work, do so. If you get to work by public transport, get off a stop or two earlier than usual, so that you walk some distance each day. If you drive, park further away than usual, or walk a longer route to work. Use your lunchtimes to take regular brisk walks around your work area, not just a stroll around the shops. Find a steep set of stairs, i.e. five floors of a department store/office block and climb them five times, at least three times per week. Swimming, squash, badminton, cycling and any other sport will also help get you prepared.

129 Joining a leisure centre is a good idea as the local fitness instructors may well be able to design a programme specifically for you. Most good gyms have a walking machine, or even better a stair climber, where you can clock up mileage more safely and comfortably, but do try to walk as much as possible in real conditions and wearing your rucksack and boots. It is important at weekends to get into some hilly areas to experience walking on different surfaces, get used to the hills and of course the weather. You should wear the boots and rucksack you will take on the trek. You should make the time to walk some consecutive long days: an isolated Sunday walk does not have the same effect as two consecutive days. Nothing will prepare you for the trek better than actually walking. Even if you re only doing an hour around the park or streets put your rucksack and boots on, you may look silly but it s worth it. You may not stick to the training guide exactly but you need to keep it in mind and to do regular exercise every week according to the guide. You will enjoy this challenge far more if you are physically fit. Week 10 and 11: Sat or Sun: 6 hour walk and stretch. Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 4, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 4, stretch. Fri: Rest day Training tips After the first six weeks you need to gain endurance by walking long slow distances. Pick one day per week as your long walk to gain endurance. Choose two evenings or mornings as your shorter walks with the Circuit Exercises to help build specific muscles groups. Remember to stretch after every walk; it is also essential to stretch after about ten minutes of walking once you ve warmed up a bit. Make sure you plan adequate rest/recovery days as part of the training. Of course nothing is better than walking. However, if you play squash, tennis, badminton or go to the gym, cycle or swim for an hour or two, then this will also help with your general fitness. Adding this to your programme instead of one of the short days or on one of the rest days would be fine. Make sure you stretch properly after each session. Week x 30 mins walks. 1 x 2 hour walk. Full stretch after each walk Week 7 and 8: Sat or Sun: 4 hour walk and stretch (walk both days if possible). Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Fri: Rest day Week 9: Sat AND Sun: 4 hour walk and stretch; Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Fri: Rest day

130 Week 12: Sat AND Sun: 6 hour walk and stretch, (walk both days if possible). Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 4, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 4, stretch. Fri: Rest day Week 13 and 14: Sat or Sun: 8 hour walk and stretch. Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 5, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 5, stretch. Fri: Rest day Week 15: Sat AND Sun: 8 hour walk and stretch.(walk both days if possible). Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 5, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 5, stretch. Fri: Rest day Week 16: Sat or Sun: 4 hour walk and stretch. Mon: Rest day Tues: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Weds: Rest day Thurs: 1 hour walk, stretch, exercise circuit x 3, stretch. Fri: Rest day Appendix 4 Trains and buses Spain RENFE The Spanish national train system RENFE AVE The Spanish high speed train system RENFE CERCANÍAS The Spanish local train system RENFE REGIONALES The Spanish medium distance trains FEVE A train system serving northern Spain EUSKOTREN A train system serving Basque Country To book a train online visit: France SNCF The French national train system TGV The French high speed train system TER TER AQUITAINE The train for Bayonne to Saint Jean Pied de Port SNCF TRANSILIEN The trains for Ile-de-France (Paris & vicinity) RATP Metro, RER and trains for Ile-de-France (Paris & vicinity) SEAT61.com Train systems throughout the world

131 Buses Bus companies serving the Spanish Caminos There are numerous bus companies servicing the Camino routes in Spain, many are comfortable, clean and affordable. They will help you get to the beginning of your Camino and they are also useful if you are pushed for time, get injured or feel like taking a few side trips. After days and weeks of simple walking however, it can feel a little strange and the sense of speed can be a little frightening! Alsa Bus Alsa buses run throughout Spain but more importantly they also run services along the length of eight Spanish Camino routes allowing you to travel back to the town or city you flew into at the start of your trip. Alsa buses are modern and comfortable and their website is full of useful resources and handy interactive maps. Follow this link to their St James way bus services. The Camino routes they cover are: Camino Frances Camino del Norte Camino Primitivo Camino Portuguese Camino Vasque Camino Aragones Camino Sanabres Camino Via de la Plata They also serve Porto in Portugal Continental Auto Avanza bus Their site is in Spanish and English and covers mostly the east coast of the country but also Madrid, Galicia and even Torreblanca in Portugal Monbus A company running buses from Santiago to Sarria and Ferrol (Sarria being a popular starting point for people wanting to walk the final 100km of the Camino Frances). This company also serves La Coruña from Santiago. Empresa Freire A company established nearly 100 years ago running from Santiago to the airport, Arzua, Melide and Lugo Conda Running from Madrid and San Sebastian to Pamplona La Burundesa Buses linking Pamplona to San Sebastian, Logroño, Bilbao and Vitoria Transportes Pesa Buses linking Biarritz, San Sebastian, Bilbao and Bayonne Autocares Artieda Buses running from Pamplona to Roncesvalles with a rather confusing website! Mancobus This company runs from Jaca to Somport but at present has no functioning website. Details may be available locally. Alosa This company runs from Pamplona to Jaca but also Barcelona and Puente la Reina. Vibasa Buses running from Barcelona to Pamplona La Sepulvedana Very modern bus company, originating from Madrid with a clear, informative website in several languages including Japanese. Camino Frances bus companies The following section details the bus companies that serve towns and cities along the Camino Frances in Spain. Laburundesa serve the Camino towns of Irún, Pamplona, Logroño, Santo Domingo and Belorado as well as the Northern coastline. However, do take a look at their route maps as their buses do not follow a logical routing. For example, to travel from Irún to Logroño you must first use La Burundesa to Pamplona and then another company, La Estellesa to get to Logroño. La Estellesa serves Pamplona, Estella, Los Arcos and Logroño Grupo Jimenez serves the region of Rioja through Logroño and Zaragoza

132 Logroño Here is a list of all of the bus companies and routes serving Logroño that you may find useful. Alsa Bus Gijón - Oviedo - León - Logroño Automóviles Soto y Alonso Burgos - Briviesca - Logroño Continental Auto Vitoria - Logroño Herederos de Juan Gurrea Azagra - Lodosa - Mendavia - Logroño La Estellesa San Sebastián - Logroño La Unión Alavesa Bilbao - Logroño Viacar (ALSA) Santander - Logroño Vibasa Vigo - Pontevedra Orense - Logroño Zamorana de transportes Valladolid - Logroño Logroño to Najera and beyond Aupsa serves many locations along the 4including Ponferrada, Villafranca de Bierzo, Foncebadon in the mountains, Manjarin and La Cruz de Ferro. Buses from Santiago de Compostela Triacastela To travel between these two destinations, first you must use Empresa Freire buses to Lugo then Monbus to Triacastela. Finisterre Timetable: Santiago to Fisterra - 9am - 10am - 1pm - 7pm Returning: 8h20-11h45-16h45 (they ve dropped the 14h45 and 7pm bus) Muxia Two buses daily (one early morning, one mid afternoon) link Santiago to Muxia and the journey takes 2 hours again from the main bus station. Tel: Camino Aragones Buses serving the Camino Aragones from Jaca to Somport Daily services operated by Jaca Turismo Buses from Madrid There are two main bus stations in Madrid - so the station you ll need depends on where you are going. The main station is Méndez Alvaro (also know as Estación del Sur) which mainly serves buses to the south, east and north-west. If you cannot find a destination at the other stations, it will probably be covered by this one. The station is located in the south of the capital. The other is Avenida de America in the north-east of the city. It has its own Metro station and the airport bus goes straight there as well. Sevilla Cádiz Córdoba Huelva Jerez de la Frontera The north station - Estación de Avenida de América serves: Bilbao San Sebastián Vitoria Burgos Santander Pamplona Logroño Soria Guadalajara Toledo Granada Madrid s metro map - click on Plano Travelling from Madrid to Salamanca or Zamora Use Auto-Res buses. Other useful transport links Public transport in Madrid A comprehensive site with a few handy interactive planning tools Sarria transports Transport in Navarra all Navarra destinations Pamplona, Estella, etc. Movelia Spanish bus search engine Bus companies in France A really useful website serving all urban networks in France however not in English, so use an online translator. This company serves the area of Bayonne, Hendaye and Biarritz, useful if you plan to start from St Jean Pied de Port and arrive by air.

133 Their site is again in French. Bus lines from Santiago de Compostela Alsa Routes Santiago Germany Santiago Belgium and Holland Santiago France and Switzerland Santiago - Porto-Santiago - Porto - Lisboa Santiago - Zamora - Salamanca Santiago - Zamora - Salamanca - Mérida - Sevilla - Algeciras Santiago - Madrid Santiago - Burgos - Zaragoza - Barcelona Santiago - Ponferrada - Astorga - León - Valladolid Santiago - Asturias Santiago - Asturias - Santander - Bilbao - San Sebastián - Irún Santiago - Ponferrada - Palencia - Burgos - Vitoria - Bilbao Arriva Noroeste Santiago - Curtis Santiago - Curtis - Vilalba Santiago - Curtis - Vilalba - Mondoñedo - Burela / Ribadeo Santiago - As Pontes - Viveiro Santiago - Padrón - Araño - Boiro - Ribeira Santiago - Padrón - Rianxo - Boiro - Ribeira Santiago - Boiro - Ribeira - Aguiño (por AP-9 e vía rápida) Santiago - Ferrol (por AP-9 e Guísamo) Santiago - Ferrol (por AP-9 e Fene) Santiago - Ferrol (por AP-9 e Pontedeume) Santiago - Ordes - Betanzos - Miño - Pontedeume - Ferrol Castromil / Monbus Santiago - A Coruña (por AP-9) Santiago - Sigüeiro - Ordes - A Coruña Santiago - Pontevedra - Vigo (por AP-9) Santiago - Padrón - Caldas de Reis - Pontevedra - Vigo-Santiago - Ferrol (por AP-9 e Pontedeume) Santiago - Ordes - BetanzosSantiago - Noia Santiago - Noia - MurosSantiago - Muros - Cee - Fisterra Santiago - Noia - Muros - Cee - Fisterra Santiago - Lalín - Ourense (por AP-53) Santiago - Silleda - Lalín - Ourense Santiago - Silleda - Lalín - Ourense - Verín Santiago - Silleda - Lalín - Chantada - Monforte Santiago - Silleda - Lalín - Chantada - Monforte - A Rúa - O Barco Santiago - Cacheiras - Cuntis - Moraña Santiago - Vilagarcía - Cambados - O Grove - A Toxa Santiago - Vilagarcía - Vilanova - Cambados - O Grove - A Toxa Santiago - Vilagarcía - Cambados - Sanxenxo - O Grove - A ToxaEmpresa Freire Routes Santiago - Lugo (por AP-9 e A-6) Santiago - aeroporto - Arca - Arzúa - Melide - Palas de Rei - LugoDr. Teixeiro - estación de autobuses - aeroporto Santiago - aeroporto - Arca - Arzúa Santiago - aeroporto - Arca - Arzúa - Sobrado Santiago - Ferreiros Hermanos Ferrín Routes Santiago - Bertamiráns - Negreira Santiago - Bertamiráns - Negreira - Muxía Santiago - Tapia - PiñeiroSantiago - A Baña - Santa Comba Santiago - Picaraña Santiago - Reborido Santiago - Casalonga

134 Appendix 5 General costs (2010) Water Coke 2 Vending machine cans 90c to 1 Vending machine bottle Chocolate bar like mars, kit-kat, etc c White wine small glass 1.50 Red wine small glass 1.20 Large glass 2 Beer 50c, 60c in the shop for 0.33 lt can and for 500 ml in the bar Estrella beer (small glass) 2 Amstel beer (large glass) 3 Coffee Tortilla Patatas fritas 3 Ensalada mixta 6 9 Toasted sandwich 5 Bocadillo 4 (50c with each extra filling) Pasta most from 6 Platas Combinados fish or steak or chicken or pork from 9 Hamburger a meat patty on a roll (no extras) from Pan (bread) 80c to 1 Magnum ice cream 2 Other ice-cream cups Shopping hours: These can vary considerably between region, city, town and type of shop. Small shops open from between 08h30 and 09h30 (or earlier for food shops) until between 13h00 and 14h00 and from around 17h00 until between 19h30 and 21h00, Monday to Friday, then from 09h30 until 14h00 on Saturdays. In some areas shops are closed on Monday mornings. In south Spain, the siesta lasts from 13h30 or 14h00 until 17h00. Department stores, hypermarkets and many supermarkets are open without a break for a siesta from around 09h30 or 10h00, until between 20h00 and 22h00 from Monday to Saturday. Markets: You have indoor markets, called mercados, permanent street markets and travelling open-air street markets that move from area to area. Often prices can be 20% lower than in shops and remember to take along your bargaining skills! Markets usually operate from 09h00 until 14h00 and sell a variety of goods such as: food, flowers, clothes, shoes, crockery, cookware, linen, ceramics, cassettes/cds, arts and crafts, household wares, carpets, jewellery, etc. Watch out for well-known name brands though, as they are usually fakes. Buying from a supermecado: Kilo of tomatoes 2.50 Loaf of sliced bread 2.45 Pack of butter 1.10 Medium jar Nescafe coffee 2.50 Box of 16 triangles of spreadable cheese 1, litre fresh milk 1 Packet of wheatbix (430g) 2.60 Fresh chicken per kilo Pork chops 5 6 per kilo Kilo bag of potatoes 70c Pack of 40 teabags Tomatoes (summer) 80c per kilo Green peppers 1.80 per kilo Decent frozen pizza: 3.50 Spanish cheese from around 3 for 250 g Cheddar from around 6 for 250 g A packet of 20 Benson and Hedges 3.55 Bottle of shampoo 3 Deodorant 2

135 Appendix 6 Camino Lingo It is amazing the difference in learning from an English speaking country to any other. Go to school in the UK, for example, and you will get a choice of ONE of the following: French, German, Spanish and maybe Latin. Visit a Swiss school and children as young as six are learning not only German but also their own Swiss German, English, French and sometimes Italian! This void has meant that, unfortunately, when English speakers travel, the majority have no idea how to communicate with the locals and rely on the ability of these locals to speak at least some English. You can get so much more from a place if you have even just the basics of the local language, not only to be able to ask for what you mean but also to gain a certain level of respect that is sometimes lost when we just slowly mouth the words DO... YOU... SPEAK... ENGLISH? Providing these few words and phrases, we hope to give you those basics including numerous phrases that are pilgrim-related. It won t make you fluent, it ll take years for that, but it will give you a little confidence to dig a little deeper into the Spanish way of life. Basic everyday phrases This section looks at everyday phrases to use when meeting people Good morning Good afternoon/evening Good night Goodbye How are you? I m very well Yes No Thank you Please You re welcome I m sorry Excuse me What is your name? My name is Buenos días, or just Hola Buenos tardes Buenos noches Adiós Que Tal Estoy muy bien Sí No Gracias Por favor De nada Lo siento Perdón Como se llama? Me llamo... Accommodation This section gives you some words and phrases relating to the different accommodation you ll find along the Spanish pilgrim routes. Pilgrim hostel Donation pilgrim hostel Cheap hotel Guesthouse Upper class hotel Where is the pilgrim hostel? How much is the room per night? Do you have a single room? There is no hot water Where can I wash my clothes? Albergue, refugio Donativo or la voluntad Hostal Casa rural Parador Dónde está el albergue de peregrinos? Cuánto es la habitación por noche? Tiene una habitación individual? No hay agua caliente Donde puedo lavar mi ropa? Food and drink This section focuses on Spanish food and drink, not only in restaurants and cafés, but also supermarkets and bars. Breakfast Lunch Starter Main course Dessert Pilgrim menu Menu of the day Mixed plate Pinchos Raciones Desayuno Almuerzo Primero, entremés Segundo Postre Menú del Peregrino Menú del Día Platos Combinados Navarra and Basque word for tapas Same as tapas but bigger Tapas Spanish finger food. Logroño has maybe the best tapas bars along the Camino Frances. Snacks Sandwich Omelette Olives Fruit Apple Orange Banana Chips or fries Bocadillo Tortilla Aceitunas Fruta Manzana Naranja Plátano Patatas Fritas

136 Starters Mixed salad Green salad Soup Main Courses Potatoes Chicken Beef steak Pork Octopus (common in Galicia) Ham Sausage Prawns Trout Vegetables (venduras) Carrots Cucumber Garlic Pepper Lettuce Mushrooms Onions Peas Tomatoes I m a vegetarian Ensalada Mixta Ensalada Verde Sopa Patatas Pollo Bistec Cerdo Pulpo Jamon Salchicha Gambas Trucha Zanahorias Pepino Ajo Pimiento Lechug Champiñones Cebollas Guisantes Tomates Soy vegetariano/vegetariana Dessert Santiago almond cake Sweet almond cake Rice pudding Creamed cheese served with honey Crème caramel Drinks Ice cream Red wine White wine Beer Mineral water With/without gas Small, strong coffee Coffee with steamed milk Black coffee Large black coffee Decaf coffee Hot chocolate At the supermarket Bread Butter Cheese Coffee Milk Sugar Tea Drinking water Tarta de Santiago Turrones Arroz con Leche Cuajada Flan Helado Vino Tinto Vino Blanco Cerveza Agua mineral Con / sin gas Espresso Café Café con Leche Café Negro Café Americano Café descafeinado Cola Cao Pan Mantequilla Queso Café Leche Azúcar Té Agua Potable Water not drinkable Agua No Potable

137 Getting around You ll be walking most of the time but when you need directions, use public transport or are visiting the sights this section can provide you with some basic phrases. Sightseeing What is there to see here? Can we go in? What time does the museum open? Is there an English speaking guide? How much is it to enter? Can I take photos? Bus and train What bus/train do I take for Pamplona? Does this bus/train go to Pamplona? Can I leave these bags in the left luggage? Qué hay aquí interesante para ver? Podemos entrar? A qué hora abre el museo? Hay un guía que hable inglés? Cuánto cuesta la entrada? Puedo hacer fotos? Qué autobús / tren tomo yo para Pamplona? Este autobús / tren va a Pamplona? Puedo dejar estas maletas en It s here It s beside the church Around the corner It s on the next floor Travel Airport Train station Timetable Ticket One way Return Bus Bus station Bus stop Está aqui Está al lado de la iglesia A la equina Está en el próximo piso Aeropuerto Estación de Trenes Horario Billete Sólo Ida Ida y Vuelta Autobús Estación de Autobuses Parada de Autobuses Consigna? How much is it? When is the next bus/train to Pamplona? How long does it take to get to Pamplona? What time do we get to Pamplona? A single ticket to Madrid, please A return ticket to Madrid, please Directions Right Left Go right Go left Go straight on The first on the right The first on the left Second Third Fourth Cross the street Cross the square It s over there Cuánto es? Cuándo es el próximo autobús / tren a Pamplona? Cuánto tiempo lleva llegar a Pamplona? A que hora llegamos a Pamplona? Un billete de ida para Madrid por favor Un billete de ida y vuelta para Madrid, por favor Derecha Izquierda Vaya a la derecha Vaya a la izquierda Vaya recto La primera de la derecha La primera de la izquierda Segundo Tercero Cuarto Cruce la calle Cruce la plaza Está allí Useful travel phrases Where are the toilets? Where is the cathedral? Is it far? Can you walk there? Is this the right way to the albergue? Is there a youth hostel near here? How long will it take to get there? I am looking for the tourist office. I am lost! How far is it to Santiago? Donde están los servicios? Donde está la catedral? Está lejos? Se puede ir caminando? Voy bien por aqui para el albergue? Hay un albergue juvenil cerca de aqui? Cuánto se tarda en llegar? Estoy buscando la oficina de turismo Me he perdido! A que distancia está Santiago?

138 Time and Date Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday January February March April May June July August September October November December Medical Health centre Doctor Blister Hospital Knee I have a headache I have a sore throat I have sunstroke I have an upset stomach I think I have food poisoning I have been sick I am constipated I have diarrhoea I have high blood pressure I m allergic to penicillin Lunes Martes Miércoles Jueves Vernes Sábado Domingo Enero Marzo Abril Mayo Junio Julio Agosto Septiembre Octubre Noviembre Deciembre Centro de Salud Médico Ampolla Hospital Rodilla Tengo dolor de cabeza Tengo irritación de garganta Tengo insolación Me duele el estómago Creo que tengo intoxicación por alimentos He vomitado Bits n bobs A few other words you may find useful Church (Yellow) arrow Bridge Chemist/pharmacist Closed Open Drink font Cold Snow Rain Big Small Shower Toilets More Less The entrance The exit Hostel warden Stamp Pilgrim Passport Learn Spanish online Iglesia Flecha (Amarilla) Puente Farmacia Cerrado Abierto Fuente Frío Nieve Lluvia Grande Pequeño Ducha Servicios/Aseos Mas Menos La entrada La salida Hospitalera/hospitalero Sello Credencial

139 Appendix 7 Post-Camino blues Suffering from PCB (Post-Camino blues!) When the decision to walk the Camino is made, most people spend months and years planning their journey and it can often occupy your thoughts to the point of distraction. Then the act of walking across an entire country, the fruit of all your labours, is over too soon. Reaching Santiago, Rome or wherever your goal may be, can sometimes be an anti-climax. You were expecting something more when you arrived, you expected tears, you expected joy, you expected happiness but when you got there, it didn t quite happen. In fact, it did happen, time and time again over the past month or so of walking. Santiago is not the end, merely a short stop before home and the continuation of your journey. What pilgrims have reported on Camino forums time and time again are the post-camino blues. The sheer realisation that the simple life you ve been leading is far from the world you have gone back to. Not much will have changed back home, and although you may feel like the Camino didn t change you, IT DID. It s only when you return to your home, friends and family that the differences will be clear. The Camino is a simple, yet intense experience. The only worries are your feet, the distance, where to get food and water. You make friends every day (when was the last time you made a friend a day back home?) and the moment you land in your home country there are a million decisions to make and the choices are endless. You can feel bowled over when setting foot into the arrivals lounge. The noise, the crowds, the traffic, the speed of everything around you makes you feel giddy. However, there are ways to make this transition easier and instead of drawing a line under the Camino and saying its time to get on with my life, the trick is to use all the things the Camino taught you and integrate them into your world. Forums! These are a secret place where hundreds of pilgrims come every day to hang out and chat about all things Camino. This should be your first port of call when returning home as you can continue to feel like part of something special. There you can not only share your blues with others but also catch up on old friends, look at photos, help others and maybe even start planning the next trip! Stay in touch with your new pilgrim friends. They were there with you, saw your pain, saw your happiness, experienced it all too. They are the ones who can sympathise with you, remember and remind you of things that maybe you had forgotten. It s good free counselling! Then comes the union of Camino and home. There is no right or wrong way to do this, but a starting point may be to remember all the good and all the bad things that happened on your Camino. The severe blisters you got on day three and the way that halted your body. The woman who took your backpack from you, sat you down with a refreshing cup of lemon water and tended to your feet. The shin splints that made you weep with every footstep and the kind gentleman who gave you his staff to take the burden. The hard-up bar owner who stole from you by charging twice for a sandwich. The inhabitants of a small village who all came out in excitement when the Internet truck passed through one summer morning. The feeling of wet boots and knee high mud... and the fact that it didn t stop you. The feeling of a misty dawn sunrise near the village of Gonzar and being reunited with your sick friend who you thought was lost. The tears you wept secretly when you saw the cathedral in the distance and the numbness you felt when you sat in the afternoon sun, watching other pilgrims finishing their own Caminos. Examine all your memories and feelings in depth then embrace and except them all. This was your Camino and it did change you in ways that will reveal themselves over time. Use the confidence you gained, the fitness levels you built up, the empowerment, the achievement, the ability to walk hundreds of miles with all you need on your back and rely on no one else but yourself. Take everything with you and attempt to apply it to your relationships, your friendships, your career, your finances! It may be hard but you CAN do it. You will have a renewed focus, new goals, a clearer understanding of the world and it s people and a new vigour to tackle any pressing priorities but ultimately you will forever belong to a small group of people who for whatever reason, one day decided to make a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. And, if the blues persist there is only one cure plan another Camino or go back to work as a hospitalero in a traditional albergue. Buen Camino! Take a weekend to sort through and look at your photos from the Camino. Turn them all into a slide show and add your favourite music to it (Picassa from Google can do this easily) and have a good old reminisce with a glass or two of Rioja wine or San Miguel beer. Look back through your trinkets with fond memories, re-read your guide book or the notes you made in this book before you left. Go for a walk in your worn hiking shoes or look over your fully stamped pilgrim passport and feel proud of what you have achieved. Writing up your journal, now you can think clearer, can take time but is very important and every page you complete will fill you with memories and will keep them fresh forever.

140 Appendix 8 Hospitaleros voluntarios If you walk hundreds of kilometres in France and Spain and stay in pilgrim refuges, chances are that you will be cared for by at least 30 voluntary hospitaleros or wardens. In Benedict s time and down through the centuries it was common, particularly in Europe, for pilgrims to use monasteries as places of rest and shelter while travelling. In the Middle Ages, monasteries were safe havens where a person would be welcomed regardless of his ability to pay. The Rule of Benedict (53rd Chapter) is dedicated to the reception of guests, especially pilgrims: Let all guests that come be received like Christ, for he himself will say: I was a stranger and you took me in. And let fitting honour be shown to all, especially to churchmen and pilgrims All humility should be shown in addressing a guest on arrival or departure. Most of the traditional not-for-profit pilgrim albergues on the various Camino routes are staffed by volunteers. These are mostly ex-pilgrims who, feeling a need to give back to the Camino some of the welcome and hospitality that they enjoyed, have undergone special training to serve as hospitaleros voluntarios. Camino hospitality follows a long tradition of welcoming strangers, especially pilgrims, started by mendicant monks in their religious monasteries. The pilgrim shelters were often called hospitals or hospices because they cared for everyone no matter their standing, religion or creed. Many walkers on the Camino carry a strong sense of being part of a stream, a stream of humanity or even a flow of history, moving ever westward. As a hospitalero you become a rock in that stream. The rock stays in place and a drop of water hesitates briefly and then moves on, leaving the rock to interact with the next drop and the next and the next. You provide the resting place where fellow pilgrims can stop and renew themselves in body, mind and spirit before they move on. Generally speaking those responsible for refuges look for volunteers who have walked the Camino and who have done a hospitalero training course. There is a preference for persons with some Spanish language skills and ideally another language as well (thankfully English will serve very well for that!) but having said that, there are exceptions. Some refuges find themselves with a gap in their schedule or occasionally a hospitalero must leave due to an emergency; your willingness to give back to the Camino through enthusiastic volunteering will be your most important skill. What is it like to volunteer as a hospitalero? Your most important duty will be to serve as host to a steady stream of peregrinos. This will involve providing a warm and sincere welcome to all pilgrims. Sometimes it will involve listening, sometimes conversing. It will mean being a resource for advice on such matters as first aid or other medical care (not actually dispensing care), knowing where to buy supplies, when and where church services will be held, what lies ahead on the trail. You may find yourself in the role of confessor, psychologist or advisor to the lovelorn. You may become responsible for organising evening meals for any number of hungry pilgrims. You will be up with the peregrinos in the morning and you will turn out the lights in the late evening. And there might even be washing sheets, cleaning toilets and showers, mopping floors, sweeping outdoor areas. You may be the one to order propane and cleaning supplies or to do the accounting you may feel like you are running a small business. You will certainly find yourself part of a local Spanish community or village, and community relations will be important. Most formal hospitalero assignments are for a half month; informal ones might be only for a few days. You will likely have little time off during your tenure. In short, this will probably be one of the most intense, and intensely gratifying, experiences of your life. Tom Friesen Canada The Spanish Federation of Hospitaleros Voluntarios (HOSVOL) Established in 1990, the Spanish Federation now comprises over volunteers, former pilgrims, from all over the world. Every year from February to June, HOSVOL organises a series of courses for new volunteers, training them to welcome pilgrims in the tradition of hospitality and caring that was laid down in the Middle Ages. Various confraternities in America, Canada, the UK, South Africa and Italy also run HOSVOL approved courses in their countries. In order to serve as a volunteer in these albergues, one must have done a Camino and have undergone a HOSVOL training course. Hospitaleros are sent as volunteers to various albergues run by parochial monasteries and convents, municipalities or those belonging to different confraternities. Every year more and more pilgrims walk a Camino in Spain and France. Pilgrim hostals (albergues) are opening earlier and some stay open all year to cope with the numbers of pilgrims. Volunteers are needed to host pilgrims in the traditional ways established by the Spanish Federation and most assignments are for 15 days or half a month. More information about volunteering and training courses: nilsens@mweb.co.za You can also volunteer directly by contacting the individual albergues. A list can be found at Be aware that many of these are private businesses that might love to have your two weeks free labour! The choice is yours, but don t be exploited.

141 France 1. You can volunteer at Albergue Esprit du Chemin either online or by 2. To volunteer in the Pilgrim s Office in St Jean Les Amis du Chemin de Saint-Jacques des Pyrenees-Atlantiques, 39 rue de Saint Jean Pied de Port France caminopa@hotmail.com 3. Vézelay route Amis et Pèlerins de Saint-Jacques de la Voie de Vézelay 24 Rue Saint-Pierre Vézelay: Tel: 0033 (0) Le Puy route Conques Hospitalité Saint-Jacques Contact Pauline Dobon, Abbaye Sainte-Foy, F12320 Conques Tel: acceuil-conques@mondaye.com la citadelle64220 Appendix 9 Mass and Communion on the Camino Attending a mass on the Camino can be a very special experience even if you are not a Christian. Pilgrims of all faiths and nationalities have been blessed in the Catholic churches for over a thousand years. Whether or not you participate in Holy Communion depends on your interpretation of the sacraments. In 2007 I asked a local Catholic bishop, the Santiago Archdiocese and the Anglican Church in England if Protestants could take Communion whilst on the Camino. The Anglican reply: The Anglican Churches recognise Roman Catholic Eucharist as valid celebrations of the Eucharist, and would be delighted to be invited to Communion. Unfortunately, the Roman Catholic Church does not permit it, except in very unusual circumstances. With best wishes The Department of Ecumenical Affairs and Studies Anglican Communion Office London Santiago Archdiocese reply Dear Silvia, You have asked us if Non-Catholic Christians can receive Communion in Catholic Churches while on the Way of Saint James. This is a rather important and controversial subject that has raised numerous theological debates, especially in Inter-Christian ecumenical gatherings and work. For this reason, in order to truthfully and fundamentally respond to this question we refer you to the Catholic Church s doctrine on this matter. It is important to point out that the Eucharist is a sacrament of the ecclesial communion and as a result it is inseparably linked to the full ecclesial communion. Due to this, it is important to know which Church or ecclesial community these pilgrims pertain to in order to better understand the extent of communion between those churches and the Catholic Church. This being said, in following the DIRECTORY REGARDING ECUMENISM of the Roman Catholic Church we can derive the following guidelines that regulate the sharing of the Eucharist with Non-Catholic Christians. The fundamental principle is that the Catholic Church, in a general sense, only gives access to the Eucharistic Communion and to the sacraments of penance and the anointing of the sick to the members of this faith both in worship and in the ecclesial community. However, it is authorized or even recommended in certain circumstances of an exceptional nature that Christians who pertain to other Churches and ecclesial communities be given these sacraments. In this respect, the Decree of Ecumenism (Number 130) gives us the following cases: a) In the case of danger of death Catholic Ministers may administer these sacraments based on established guidelines (Number 131).

142 b) In situations of grave and pressing needs the Catholic Ministers will judge individual cases and will only administer these sacraments in accordance with these established guidelines. Glossary The conditions (established in rule Number 131) in which Catholic Ministers are able to administer the Eucharistic sacraments, penance and the anointing of the sick to a baptized person that finds themselves in the above mentioned circumstances (Number 130) are: - that the individual finds it impossible to call upon a Minister from their own Church or ecclesial community in order to receive the desired sacrament - that they request this sacrament of their own free will - that they manifest their catholic faith in this sacrament and - that they be duly willing Therefore, in some cases it is possible to administer the Eucharist to those who are not in perfect communion with the Catholic Church. However, it requires that there be special circumstances such as it being impossible to have access to a Minister of ones own faith when trying to satisfy a grave spiritual necessity. This is also the case when those followers of other Churches and ecclesial communities profess to the Catholic faith in respect to the Eucharist or to the sacrament of penance and the anointing of the sick when necessary if they are disposed to do so. The Bishop s reply: This is a question that is often asked by pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. There is a desire to go to Communion and to be part of the liturgical celebration while at the same time wanting to respect the practice of the host church. What is the position? The general rule in the Catholic Church regarding sacramental sharing is that it is only permissible for those with whom we share full ecclesial communion. There are two exceptions to this rule, namely, in danger of death or for some other grave or pressing need. In the case of grave or pressing need, the following conditions are to be met: (a) the person must seek it of his or her own initiative (b) must be unable to receive the sacrament from a minister of his or her own Church (c) must manifest Catholic faith in the sacrament (d) must have proper disposition for the fruitful reception of it. How these norms are interpreted varies from place to place and I think that one can normally assume a broad interpretation. For example, here in Cape Town, the policy has this to say regarding the criterion that the person should manifest Catholic faith in the sacrament : the person concerned should acknowledge that the sacrament is the Body and Blood of Christ given under the form of bread and wine. This faith is manifest by responding Amen to the minister who presents the sacred bread and saving cup. The short answer? By all means go to communion if you are a regular communicant in your own church and can say yes to this being the Body and Blood of Christ. After all, when you are walking the Camino, you are probably a long way off from receiving the sacrament from your own church! And surely everyone on pilgrimage has the proper disposition! One last thing. You will notice that most Catholic churches give Communion to the congregation under the form of bread only. This is really a matter of convenience. We believe that Christ is entirely present under either of the species. For symbolic value, of course, receiving Communion under both kinds is more complete. And one more last thing. When Communion is administered to someone on their death-bed it is referred to as viaticum which means food for the journey. But in a real way, every time we receive communion, it is viaticum, food for the pilgrimage of life! Albergue Almuerzo Aseos Botafumeiro Café con leche Caminar Camino Campus stellae Casa/Rural Compostela Compostium Correos Desayunos Donativo Fonda Gallego Hostal/Hostales Hospitalera/o Jacobeo La cena Lista del Correos Mecado Menu del Dia Menu del Peregrinos Meseta Hostel lunch toilet/restroom Incense burner Coffee with milk To walk The way Field of stars House, country house, B&B, cottage Certificate given when completing the last 100km to Santiago Burial place Post office Breakfast Donation Inn Language of Galicia A little downscale from a hotel Warden (albergue) (adj) of St James Dinner General delivery to a Post Office in Spain Market Menu of the day Pilgrims menu open plain

143 Compiled by Sylvia Nilsen, an experienced Camino pilgrim, and her Spanish teacher, Reinette Nóvoa, the Lightfoot Guide Camino Lingo English/Spanish Words and Phrases for Pilgrims on el Camino de Santiago contains all the Spanish words you ll need to walk a pilgrimage in Spain. No complicated verb conjugations or rules on diphthongs and grammar. This is a cheats guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino. Don t walk a Camino without it!

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