Great Central Models

Transcription

1 Great Central Models February 2013 GCR Group Standard Tender 4000 Gallons Version 3 This kit is optimised for P4 and EM standards. Parts for an 00 version are now included. Both the narrow and wider fronted version of the standard tender are on the etch. The ROD tenders may be built if required. There are some variations of the standard tender that are not included but these can easily be added or modified by a builder with the information on these variations. The kit was designed by Great Central Models as part of an expanding range of Great Central locomotives. Great Central Models Ltd is registered as a Private Limited Company Enquiries to sales@greatcentralmodels.co.uk or via the contacts page on the web site Page 1

2 4000 Gallon Standard Robinson Tender Important This kit, Version 3, has been designed for use with wheels to P4, EM or 00 standards for which alternative chassis parts are supplied. This kit covers the wide front and narrow front versions of the 4000G tender (with or without scoop mechanism ) which lasted well past WW2. It covers the ROD tender which did not have the scoop mechanism, and a couple of etched parts and the filling cylinder may be added to the kit at a small additional cost. that the kit is not the self levelling version although sufficient coal may disguise some of the difference. These instructions are not valid for the Version 1 or Version 2 Tenders since some part numbers have changed, although I have tried to keep as many as possible the same to assist continuity through all the versions. Since the Version 1 of this tender were produced in 2010 there have been a number of improvements to the selection of parts included with the kit, especially on the etches. These tenders were used on many classes of locomotives. In all, up until 1922, 422 had been built. When we add the 273 ROD tenders that makes an impressive total of 695. Initially built with 4 coal rails, from 1905 sheet steel coal guards were fitted to the same profile (short). On some of the earlier Robinson locomotives they replaced the original 3250 Gallon tender. The barred coal rails were eventually plated, up until grouping on the outside and on the inside thereafter. The absence of beading is the clue to look out for here. Tenders were also moved around between classes and sometimes the plate with the tender number would move, sometimes it would be exchanged. Record keepers were said to be quite frustrated by all this. When locomotives with a wider rear footplate were introduced, matching tenders with a wider front footplate were introduced. At the same time the steel side coal plates were extended forwards by about 12. The rear coal plate was also increased in height to match the side coal rails. The standard Robinson 4,000 gallon tender held a nominal 6 tons of coal. The drawings herein show the tenders built by Beyer Peacock and Co. The standard tenders weighed 24 tons 6 cwt. empty. This weight almost exactly doubled when full to 48 tons 6 cwt. See - Locomotives of the GCR E. M. Johnson and Yeadon s Register of LNER Locomotives Appendix 2 - Locomotive Tender Numbering PDH Drawings show incorrect (earlier) tender of 3250 Gallons for many of the Robinson classes. Isinglass drawings tend not to be consistent with the locomotive on the drawing sheet, often showing wide versions where narrow should be be fitted. s on the kits and constituent parts The etched parts in this kit have been designed using a CAD program (TurboCAD 18.2 DL) to ensure accuracy when fitting the parts together. Tab and Slot fixture is the main way of fixing parts together. Included in these notes are:- A list of etched, cast and sundry parts Drawings of the etch fret Detailed step-by-step instructions with drawings extracted from the CAD originals Pictures showing the result of building the prototype models. During the design process a number of compromises had to be made (such as the frame widths and spacings) because of the materials and parts available to the modeller and the definitions made by various modelling bodies over the years. These were used to modify the CAD drawing which was then used to provide the instructions and drawings. After all that the drawing was scaled down to a suitable size to produce etches for the 4 mm modeller. This kit has been built and tested by the designer for P4 use only, although the EM and 00 chassis have been built to test the accuracy of fitting for the etch parts. The first trial fret was used as a template for the instructions and the second etch was used to build the model shown below and in the assembly diagrams, at the same time as validating the instructions. A modeller familiar with etch brass kit construction should be able to build an accurate model if these instructions are closely followed. However, fine-scale modellers being who they are, other ways of building the kit will be tried! Page 2

3 It must also be emphasised that photos of the original and evidence from various sources are invaluable to the modeller who wishes to get things mostly right. Some of the parts are white metal so care must be taken when soldering them to metal, in preference use a contact cyanoadhesive. Alternatively axle box and springs may be provided by 3D printed parts. These are very sensitive to heat so they should be added as the last items just prior to painting. The Instructions More years ago than I care to remember I was involved in validating and writing Master Work Sheets for the Royal Air Force. These were sets of instructions that had to be followed to the letter by technicians world-wide even though they may never have met that particular piece of equipment before. Deviations were not permitted and given that the machines being tested were vital to safe flying permission to be deviant was subject to a very close monitoring process. However, senility and pending obsolescence have taken their toll nobody is perfect so if you find anything in these instructions you feel to be wrong it will be examined closely and amended where appropriate. Likewise, with the measurements of the parts, if there is something which you feel may be wrong then, please let me know. It would be nice if this was supported by drawings, or copies of drawings. Photographs are useful as well. But be warned, the available drawings are neither consistent nor accurate if my research means anything at all. I use Nealetin (available from several places including Hobby Holidays) for all joints, re-inforced with a fillet of solder where needed for additional strength. And a final note People who know about these things will offer advice about whether or not parts such as the scoop mechanism, the coal plates (front and rear), or which coal side rail types were fitted, or even the exact placement of these components. Such things seemed to be extremely variable. Again, please refer to photographs where you can, or check with an acknowledged expert. The GCRS Yahoo forum is a good source. In the end, its your model and you should be happy with whatever parts you decide to add - or leave off. CAVEAT I have noticed that sets of etches may have slightly different characteristics when it comes to connecting TABS into SLOTS - some may be tighter than others. It is important that force is not used, but they should be a tight fit. Supporting the part with the SLOT on a block of hardwood such as balsa and gripping the part with the TAB in a pair of flat nosed pliers will make this easier. The edges of the etch sheets are 2 mm wide and are ideal for easing out the slots where necessary - simply cut off a short length, slightly file one end and insert into the slot to ease the fitting. It is generally good practice to gently file the edges of parts to remove the cusp caused by the etching process, fitting will be considerably improved in many cases. However, where parts fit between parts, do not file the cusp unless it is needed or that part may seem loose. Always try to do a test fit when in doubt. Page 3

4 Frame mm Brass Sheet 3 1. Frame Left - Sheet 2 2. Frame Right - Sheet 2 3. Well Tank & Inner Frames (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet 2 4. Well Tank PCB Support Front (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet 2 5. Well Tank PCB Support Rear (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet 2 6. Well Tank Side Brace Front Left (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet 3 7. Well Tank Side Brace Front Right (P4, EM & 00)- Sheet 3 8. Well Tank Side Brace Rear Left (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet 3 9. Well Tank Side Brace Rear Right (P4, EM & 00) - Sheet Front Buffer Beam - wide & narrow - Sheet Front Buffer Beam Overlay - wide & narrow - Sheet Rear Buffer Beam - P4 & EM/00 - Sheet Rear Buffer Beam Overlay - Sheet Draw-bar Plate - Sheet Cross Piece (behind front buffer beam) - Sheet Cross Piece (in front of well tank) - Sheet Brake Axle Support Left - Sheet Brake Axle Support Right - Sheet Brake Axle Cross Piece - Sheet Water Pipe Brace Support Left - Sheet Water Pipe Brace Support Right - Sheet Water Pipe Support Left - Sheet Water Pipe Support Right - Sheet Vacuum Cylinder Base - not for 00 - Sheet Guard Iron Left - Sheet Guard Iron Right - Sheet Bottom Cross Brace Front - Sheet Bottom Cross Brace Rear - Sheet Vacuum Lever - Sheet Rear Cross Brace - Sheet Rear Support - Sheet Buffer Mount - Sheet Buffer Mount - Sheet Buffer Mount - Sheet Buffer Mount - Sheet Heating Pipe Bracket - Sheet Heating Pipe Bracket Top Layer - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Spring and Axle Mounts - Sheet Coupling Hook - Sheet Coupling Hook - Sheet 2 Brakes, mm Brass Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Outer - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Mount Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Inner - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Brake Shoe Outer - Sheet Main Brake Pull - P4 & EM/00 - Sheet Brake Pull Rod - Sheet Brake Pull Rod - Sheet Handbrake Support - Sheet Handbrake Pull - Sheet Handbrake Actuator - Sheet Brake Actuator - Sheet Brake Actuator - Sheet Vac. Link to Brake Axle - Sheet Vac. Link to Brake Axle - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet Overlays for 70 - Sheet 2 Footplate, mm Brass 92. Footplate - wide & narrow - Sheet Valence Left - Sheet Valence Right - Sheet Steps Plate Left Front - Sheet Steps Plate Left Rear - Sheet Steps Plate Right Front - Sheet Steps Plate Right Rear - Sheet Front Steps Upper Left - Sheet Front Steps Upper Right - Sheet Rear Steps Upper Left - Sheet Rear Steps Upper Right - Sheet Front Steps Lower Left - Sheet Front Steps Lower Right - Sheet Rear Steps Lower Left - Sheet Rear Steps Lower Right - Sheet Step Support - Sheet Step Support - Sheet Step Support - Sheet Step Support - Sheet 1 Tender, mm Brass 111. Rear Plate - Sheet Front Plate - Sheet Left Side Plate - Sheet Right Side Plate - Sheet Door Slide Top Inner - Sheet Door Slide Top Outer - Sheet Door Slide Bottom Inner - Sheet Door Slide Bottom Inner - Sheet Door Left - Sheet Door Right - Sheet Top Plate - Sheet Coal Plate - Sheet Coal Hole Side Plate Left - Sheet Coal Hole Side Plate Right - Sheet Locker - Sheet Locker Shelf - Sheet Gangway Side Plate Left - wide & narrow - Sheet Gangway Side Plate Right - wide & narrow - Sheet Gangway Side Plate Top Left - wide & narrow- Sheet Gangway Side Plate Top Right - wide & narrow - Sheet 2 Page 4

5 131. Scoop wheel - Sheet Scoop wheel - Sheet Front Scoop Cover - Sheet Front Scoop Cover - Sheet Front Scoop Box - Sheet Centre Scoop Box - Sheet Main Scoop Lever Cover - Sheet Water Tank Filler & Scoop - Sheet Curved Tender Side Right - Sheet Curved Tender Side Left- Sheet Curved Tender Back- Sheet Coal Plate Steel Left - Sheet Coal Plate Steel Right - Sheet Coal Plate Barred Left - Sheet Coal Plate Barred Right - Sheet Coal Plate Barred Backing Left - Sheet Coal Plate Barred Backing Right - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Stiffener - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Plate Angle - Sheet Coal Retainer Front - Sheet Coal Retainer Rear - Sheet Tender Hoist Front Right - Sheet Tender Hoist Front Left - Sheet Tender Hoist Rear Right - Sheet Tender Hoist Rear Left - Sheet Front Foot Plate - Sheet 1 Small Parts, mm Brass 171. Lamp Bracket Left - Sheet Lamp Bracket Centre - Sheet Lamp Bracket Right - Sheet Lamp Bracket Top - Sheet Tool Holder - Sheet Tool Holder - Sheet Tool Support - Sheet Tool Support - Sheet Top Plate Support Brackets - Sheet Top Plate Support Brackets - Sheet Top Plate Support Brackets - Sheet Shovel - Sheet Shovel - Sheet Spare 185. Hinge - Sheet Hinge - Sheet Hinge - Sheet Hinge - Sheet Hinge - Sheet Hinge - Sheet Hinged Front Plate - Sheet ROD Water Filler Top - Sheet ROD Water Filler Base - Sheet ROD Water Filler Main - Sheet Water Tap - Sheet Water Tap - Sheet Cab Side Lamp Holders - Sheet Cab Side Lamp Holders - Sheet Scoop Left Outer - Sheet Scoop Left Inner - Sheet Scoop Centre (with Lifting Hook - Sheet 3) 202. Scoop Right Inner - Sheet Scoop Right Outer - Sheet Scoop Lift - Sheet Scoop Lift - Sheet Wheel Support Front - Sheet Wheel Support Centre - Sheet Wheel Support Rear - Sheet 3 Other Parts Supplied 1. Drwg. 265 Tender Sundries consisting of 10 BA Nuts - Qty 8 10 BA Bolts Cheese Head 1/4 - Qty 8 Hand Rail Knobs Markits M4HRKS 1.6mm - Qty 2 Waisted Bearings Gibson 4M63W - Qty 6 2. Drwg. 233 Cast Parts consisting of Cast Axle Box 3 Centre - Qty 4 Cast Axle Box 3 6 Centre - Qty 2 Cast Sand-box - Qty 2 3. Turned Hand Brake Markits M4HBTB - Qty 1 4. Board 1 consisting of 1.4 mm Brass Rod - 5 cm 1.0 mm Brass Rod - 5 cm 0.7 mm Brass Rod - 30 cm 0.45 mm Brass Rod - 30 cm 0.3 mm Brass Rod - 30 cm Beading 0.7 mm half round - 40 cm 1 mm Brass Tube - 2 cm Steel Spring (Ernie Ball #12) - 40 cm 5. Drwg. 241 (P4) PCB or Drwg. 242 PCB (EM) or Drwg. 274 (00) with template - Qty 1 6. Drwg. 218 Vacuum Cylinder - Qty 1 7. Drwg. 244 Vacuum Pipe Markits RVACTB - Qty 1 8. Drwg. 276 Train Heating Pipe Markits RVACSHTB - Qty 1 9. Drwg. 275 Tender Drag Box Cover - Qty 1 Additional Bits & Pieces to be purchased 1. Drwg. 267 ROD Water Filler (optional extra) - Qty1 2. Buffers AG 4M4901 or 4M4909 or Markits LNER Stepped 3. Tender Wheels 4 3 dia. Alan Gibson G axles required - specify P4 or EM or Couplings 5. Optional GCR wheel for scoop from Alan Gibson (very nice too but incorrect number of spokes) - 4M Valence - optional - Brass L Section 2.0mm x 1.0mm x 25 cm Eileen s 7. Micro Connector - Express Models at Page 5

6 Assembly Instructions The fret for the tender is made from 12 brass. It is fragile and the edges are sharp. Take care when assembling and especially when drilling out holes. Rotating brass can cause a lot of skin and tissue damage if the drill sticks and tears. For preference use a hand drill or pin chuck. Do not use force at any time, you are likely to bend the parts beyond repair. The tabs and slots are a semi-tight fit and on occasion a little easing may be needed, especially on the smaller parts. If needed, where parts fit into a slot, very lightly dress the TAB edges with a fine file. Unless otherwise stated, the folds are all done with the half etch on the inside. TAGS are on the fret and hold the individual parts in place when the fret is etched. TABS are on the parts to fit into SLOTS in the corresponding parts. Do not confuse the two and file off any TABS. EM and 00 parts are marked, either on the part or on the etch frame close to the part. Avoid getting the gauges confused Well Tank Tip Use a sharp knife on the half etch part for longer bends to increase the foldability of the part. Don t cut too deeply! Remove Well Tank & Inner Frames (3) and Cross Piece Main (16) from the fret. Carefully fold up the Well Tank & Inner Frames (3) while inserting the Cross Piece Main (16) between the front arms taking care that the horizontal slot is on the left and that the top aligns with the top of the Well Tank. The tabs at the front and rear of the Well Tank floor ensure the walls of the Well Tank are vertical. It is important that the mounting holes on Well Tank PCB Support Rear (5) align with the tender body floor. Tip Well Tank (3) Cross Piece (16) Fixing nuts - place the etch on top of some balsa wood, then using a cocktail stick, thread the nut onto the end of the cocktail stick, add a little Nealetin to the hole in the etch and then force the cocktail stick through the hole in the etch and into the balsa. Carry a small bit of solder to the joint, heat the joint and it will flow nicely round the whole nut. Check the threads are clear of solder using a 10 BA tap if needed. 1. Well Tank and Main Cross Piece Remove Well Tank PCB Support Front (4). Solder Qty 2 10 BA nuts to the two holes so that the nuts will be on the side facing the bottom of the Well Tank, i.e. on the same side as the half etch line. Fold and insert into the two slots at the bottom of the Well Tank so that the PCB mounting holes are towards the front of the Well Tank and the top is level with the top of the Well Tank (between the Well Tank walls). Remove Well Tank PCB Support Rear (5) from the fret. The holes towards the front are there to support the PCB for the tender pickups and the two towards the rear are to enable the tender body to be screwed to the tender frame. that for EM the reduced centres for the PCB are to the front of the chassis. Solder Qty 2 10 BA nuts to the forward pair of holes in Well Tank PCB Support Rear (5). Locate Well Tank PCB Support Rear (5) over the two tabs on the rear of the Well Tank. that both this part sits between the walls of the Well Tank and level with its top and with the 10 BA nuts underneath. PCB Support Front (4) 2. Well Tank and PCB Supports PCB Support Rear (5) Page 6

7 Front and Rear Support Structures Remove from the fret the following parts, Cross Piece Front (15), Brake Axle Supports (17, 18), Vacuum Cylinder Base (24) and Brake Axle Cross Piece (19). Brake Axle Supports (17, 18) have a slightly longer tab on the rear to assist when fitting the front assembly to the well tank assembly. On Brake Axle Support s (17,18) fold up the bottom axle part with the hole with the half etch on the outside. Slot Brake Axle Supports (17, 18) into place into Cross Piece Front (15) with Brake Axle Support Cross Piece (19) between them. Check the fit of Vacuum Cylinder Base (24) and slot into place (except for 00 where the reduced clearances make it impossible to fit a vacuum cylinder). Fit this assembly onto the front arms of the Well Tank so that all five tags locate in the right slots. The slots on Brake Axle Supports (17, 18) are slightly longer to aid this. Try to fix the right side first with a slight dab of Nealetin and then push the rest of the assembly into place. Remove Rear Cross Brace (30) from the fret and slide into place at the rear end of the well tank. Insert three lengths of 0.7 mm brass wire across the well tank to act as the brake pivots. This may be deferred until after one of the main side frames is in place, it will save them dropping out if they are a loose fit. These should be very slightly shorter than the length between the outer frames, 23 mm in 4 mm scale. You can chose to attach the brake pivots and brake shoes now or later easier for cleaning to do it later but it is a bit of a fiddle to get them in place. (See later for brake fitting instructions). The brake assembly may be arranged to allow removal later rather than soldering in place, in this case do not solder the brake shoes to the 0.7 mm cross pieces. Front and Rear Buffer Beams Remove Front Buffer Beam (10) from the fret, ease out the slots where tight and fit in place, noting that it is the correct way up and that it aligns with the top of the Brake Axle Support (17, 18). Remove Rear Buffer Beam (12) from the fret, ease out the slots where tight and fit in place, noting that it is the correct way up (the circular hole is slightly higher than the slots and on the right hand side) and that it aligns with the top of the Well Tank rear arms. Cross Piece (15) 3. Well Tank and Front and Rear Cross Pieces Rear Cross Brace (30) Rear Buffer Beam (12) Vac. Cylinder Base (24) except for 00 Brake Axle Supports (17,18) 0.7 mm Brake Rods - do not solder in place Water Pipe Brace (20,21) Front Buffer Beam (10) 4. Well Tank and Water Pipe Supports Water Pipe Brace (20,21) Rear Support (31) Remove Rear Support (31) from the fret and fit behind the rear buffer beam noting that the two tabs slot into the bottom of Rear Cross Brace (30) and the slot at the back is used to locate Heating Pipe Bracket (36) and Heating Pipe Bracket Top Layer (37). Water Pipe Supports It may be useful to temporarily fit the Frames (1,2) to assist fixing the Water Pipe Brace Supports in place. These are sprung into the front and rear buffers. Water Pipe Supports (22,23) 5. Water Pipe and Rear Supports Remove the Water Pipe Brace Supports (20, 21) from the fret and slot into place ensuring they are the correct orientation, Page 7

8 smaller holes to the outside and the slot for the water pipe supports nearer to the front of the tender. Remove the Water Pipe Supports (22, 23) from the fret and fit under Water Pipe Brace Supports (20, 21) with the holes towards the centre and rear. Make up the water pipes from 1.0 mm brass wire and fit between the front of the Well Tank and through the holes in Water Pipe Supports (22, 23) with 5 mm overlap. This will allow fitting of a sleeve later to represent the actual pipes between engine and tender. Be careful to bend the left pipe around where the vacuum cylinder will fit. Well Tank Side Braces (6-9) 6. Side Braces Individual Springs Main Frames Remove various parts from the fret located within Frames (1,2) cut-outs and save for the front brake assembly. The Main Frames will spring very nicely into place into the slots in the front and rear buffer beams provided the buffer beam overlays have not been fitted. 7. Side Braces CSB Remove Frames (1, 2) from the fret. that these are handed. The left frame has an additional hole near the front which supports the manual brake lever. On Frame Left (1) fold up the bottom part with the hole with the half etch on the outside. Remove Well Tank Side Braces (6-9) from the fret and check the fit against the main frames and the sides of the well tank. If individual springing is selected then use the braces with the tab which fits into the slots on the side of the well tank. Recommended CSB positions are marked on the outside of the well tanks and the correct (non-tabbed but with a 2 mm fold) braces should be selected. Insert the four Well Tank Braces (6-9) and lightly solder in place ensuring that they are square. The slots in these are for the wire springs, either individually sprung or CSB. Again ensure that the slots that will carry the 0.3 mm spring remain clear. that the labels are towards the top of these parts (a simple spot for P4), if they are fitted upside down, the springing will be at the wrong height. Lightly solder the main frames to Cross Piece Front (15) and Rear Cross Brace (30) ensuring they are square but leave the side braces free for the moment. Ensure that the slots that will carry the 0.3 mm spring remain clear. Leave the joints to the left outer frame un-soldered until after the wheels are fitted if you wish to avoid the usual very tight fit getting the pinpoint wheel axles in place. 00 Wheel Supports If you intend to use unsprung 00 wheels then since most 00 wheels do not use pin point bearings a different means of fitting them is required. Well Tank Side Braces (6-9) orientation in order to avoid brake rods - use half etch mark on side of well tank or the template to position 8. Main Frames Coupling Hooks (44,45) Frame (1) Buffer Mounts (32-35) Draw-bar Plate (14) Remove Wheel Supports ( ) from the fret and solder them in place under the well tank using the locating holes. Heating Pipe Brackets (36,37) 9. Rear Buffer Beam Page 8

9 that the rear fitting should sit around the scoop when that is fitted. Add half etch washers as required. There is slightly under 2 mm side play available. Front and Rear Buffer Overlays Prepare the surface for the front and rear buffer beam overlays by smoothing them so that none of the tabs protrude and excess solder is removed. Remove Front Buffer Beam Overlay (11) and solder it into place making sure the orientation is correct.. Drawbar Plate (14) Guard Irons (25, 26) 10. Underside view 1 - completed frame Rear Buffer Beam Overlay Bottom Cross Braces (27, 28) Remove Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (13) from the fret. Solder into place making certain the orientation is correct and then gently file the edges square. Buffer Mounts & Rear Fittings It is possible to use either the commercial sprung buffer parts by themselves (see parts list) or to include the buffer mounts supplied. Often the buffers were mounted further out than the original design by using padding. 11. Underside view 2 - completed frame Before removing the Buffer Mounts (32-35) from the fret, drill the holes in each corner 0.45 mm. The buffers recommended have a circular stop on the rear. This may be fitted so that it fits inside the Rear Buffer Beam (12) and the Rear Buffer Beam Overlay (13) directly by easing out the holes to 3.0 mm. If you choose to use the buffer mounts, then solder the buffer mounts to a flat piece of brass, drill and ease out the centre hole - one pair only - to 3.0 mm. Solder this pair to the rear of the Buffer with the buffer stop fitted and then drill through the corner holes of the buffer. Then add the second buffer mount, fit 0.45 mm wire through the holes and into the buffer beam. Remove Buffer Mounts (32-35) from the fret. Now clear all the corner holes in the buffer beam assembly, fit the buffers, add 0.45 mm wire and trim and file to represent the fixing bolts. Remove Drawbar Plate (14) from the fret and solder into place on the Rear Buffer. 12. Top View - completed frame Brake Axle Support Mounts Check that a 1.4 mm rod can slide squarely through the brake axle and drill and adjust as needed. Heating Pipe Bracket Remove Heating Pipe Bracket (36) and Heating Pipe Bracket Top Layer (37) from the fret and solder into place. PB Pickups - curve to sit on top of wheel PCB Guard Irons Remove Guard Irons (25, 26) from the fret, bend to shape so that they guard the wheels and solder into place so that they sit against the inside of the main frames and on the Rear Support (31). Fixing Bolts 13. Completed frame with Pickup PCB Page 9

10 Bottom Cross Braces Remove Bottom Cross Braces (27, 28) from the fret, test for size between the frame and solder carefully into place. There are location dots on the inside of the frames to help here. Ensure everything is square and the tops of all the parts of the frame and well tank are level. Check this on a sheet of glass or other suitable surface. A sheet of wet & dry should be used to ensure the top is properly flat. Weight Now is a good time to fit some weight into the well tank. Use lead and fix it by Araldite or other suitable adhesive, not white glue which has a tendency to expand over time. PCB Mounting The PCB must be prepared before fitting. Ensure that it does not overlap the sides of the well tank or it will not fit into the upper body. Cut two lines down the centre of the PCB about 1 mm apart to provide electrical insulation, removing the copper between the lines. Also remove copper from the top and underside around the screw holes. Before fitting, drill a couple of holes to take the wires which will go to the motor in the locomotive. Electrical Pick-ups A slightly different PCB is needed for EM where the mounting holes are nearer to the centre line and the PCB is rather narrower. Fit spring wire (phosphor bronze - not supplied) so that at least one contact will be on each wheel when they are fitted. The more the merrier! Connect a pair of flying leads to this PCB which will feed track voltage to the locomotive. Brake Shoes Remove Brake Mounts Inners and Outers (46-57) from the fret and solder together in pairs, one half etch for each full etch part. these are handed, the slight extension by one of the holes denoting the top of the brake and therefore the side. Remove the Brake Shoe Inners and Outers (58-69) from the fret, one half etch for each full etch part. Using a small sheet of balsa wood, pin through these sections and solder together using a 0.7 mm pin in the centre hole only. If you use a steel pin to help locate the top and bottom holes accurately these must be removed so that they can fit on the 0.7 mm cross pieces at the top and the Main Brake Pull (70) at the bottom. 14. Brake Shoes Alternatively use 3D printed parts on the brake base (if supplied) Rear Pull Rod Assembly Carefully remove Main Brake Pull (70) from the fret, separating out Brake Pull Rods (71-72) for later use. Remove Over-lays and pin these using 0.45 mm brass. These wires represent the bolts holding this assembly together. When completed gently file down to length so that the bolt heads are properly represented. 15. Brake Pull Assembly Overlays (80-91) Once the Pull Rod set is completed then the Rear Brake Assembly will look like the picture on the right. The front part will have a 1 mm tube (0.5 mm inside) soldered to it with a 0.6 mm gap through which a piece of 0.5 mm brass wire will hold the main pull rod from the Brake Front 1 mm Tube Main Brake Pull (16) Page 10

11 Assembly. This allows the Rear Brake Assembly to be removed if necessary. Front Brake Assembly 16. Rear Brake Assembly It is probably unwise to fit this assembly at this stage owing to the very delicate nature of the parts. Come back to this after the tender has been tested on the track and all the heavy work is done. If high melting point solder is available, it can provide a better solution to this assembly. Find the parts (73-77) you put to one side earlier when removing the frames from the fret. Solder together the Brake Pull Rods (71,72). To represent the rod and locking nuts file these to a slightly rounded shape if desired. Using 0.45 mm wire, connect the Hand Brake Support (73), Hand Brake Pull (74) and Handbrake Actuator (75) as shown. Using a 0.45 mm wire threaded through the hole in the Frame Left (1) and through into the side of the Well Tank and Inner Frames (3) fit this assembly so that Handbrake Support (73) is pivoted on the Frame Left (1) and the other end of this assembly will connect over the end of the 1.4 mm main brake axle. File this flat after you are sure it is square. Brake Actuators (76,77) are slotted around the 1.4 mm main brake axle. Bend these so that the end with the smaller hole will fit around the Vacuum Lever (29) from the vacuum cylinder. Locate parts Brake Actuators (78,79) and solder together. The rather unusual shape allows these to be fitted round the brake shaft and filed down after assembly on the 1.4 mm axle. Fit the vacuum cylinder in the locating hole. - the space for the vacuum cylinder in the EM version of the chassis is restricted by the need to move the well tank sides inwards. It should be filed flat on opposing sides to fit it. Spring Axle Mounts Remove Spring Axle Mounts from the fret and solder the supplied waisted bearings into the holes. The steel spring wire should be soldered across the top so that it may slot into the Well Tank Side Brace slots with a little fiddling. EM Modellers may prefer to solder this assembly in place rather than use springing. There are half etch lines to help to locate the correct height. Vacuum Cylinder Vac. Link to Brake Axle (78,79 Brake Actuator (76,77) Handbrake Pull (74) Brake Pull Rod (71,72) Handbrake Support (73) Fit through Frame Left (1) Handbrake Actuator (75) 17. Front Brake Assembly And to complete the chassis Where needed add solder fillets along the joints taking care not to use too much heat or things will begin to fall apart. Use heat sink clips as much as is feasible. Remember that, if you want to be able to add the wheels later then the left end of Bottom Cross Braces (27, 28) should be left un-soldered as well as the left end of the left side Well Tank Side Braces (6-9). 18. Completed Brake Assembly Page 11

12 In preparation for fitting the tender top clear the 4 fixing holes in the tender chassis to 1.8 mm. If required, remove the Coupling Hooks (44,45) from the etch, solder together and fix into the rear buffer. Footplate and Tender N.B. The footplate and tender are made in two parts, the top with the scoop mechanism and coal rails will fit into the main tender body at a later stage. Sliding Doors It is possible to make the doors slide so that the contents of the locker can be seen. If this is not required the doors can be soldered in place in the closed position and assembly becomes a lot easier! Suggestion. Solder a short length of spring wire to the rear of the Front Plate with a very short bend on the end which will fit through the stop hole to represent the stop. This can be bent out of place when removing and fitting the doors and when painting! Remove Front Plate (112) from the fret. The doors on the tender are meant to slide open so that the inner shelf can be seen. The stop bolts for the doors are half etched but if you add the stop to the Front Plate now, you will not be able to fit the doors. 19. Assembled Frames and Brakes Doors (119,120) Front Plate (112) Remove Door Slides ( ) and Doors (119,120) from the fret. Drill the holes in the doors to 0.7 mm. Solder Door Slide Top Inner (115) onto the front of Front Plate (112) at the top ensuring that it is central. Solder Door Slide Top Outer (116) over it to create a groove at the lower edge. Insert a short length of 0.7 mm wire into the doors to represent the door knob and file the rear of this flat. Position the doors and then do the same at the bottom with Door Slide Bottom Inner (117) and Door Slide Bottom Inner (118). At this point it should be possible to slide the doors into and out of the slots. Tender Body Remove Footplate (92) from the fret and dress the edges carefully. There is an additional hole on the left front for the hand brake. Noting that the securing nuts are above the Footplate (92) solder Qty 4 10 BA nuts over the holes and ensure that they are clear using a 10 BA tap if needed. Check these align with the holes in the main frame assembly. Slides ( ) Rear Plate (111) Side Plates (113,114) 20. Tender Front and Doors 21. Tender Shell Top Plate Support Bracket (179) Remove Rear Plate (111), and Side Plates (113,114) from the Front Plate (112) fret. Dress the edges carefully making sure the tabs remain intact but remove any remnants of the half etched tags which connected these into the main fret. Footplate - wide version shown (92) The Rear Plate (111) has a couple of half-etched lines on the inside towards the top. Remove Top Plate Support Brackets (179,180) from the fret, fold and solder against these lines. Page 12

13 Check that these parts now fit into Footplate (92). These tabs are quite a tight fit but their entry into the corresponding slots may be eased a little by very lightly filing down the surface of the tabs or by easing the slots as described earlier. Still making sure the nuts are on the upper surface of the footplate, insert Side Plates (113,114) noting that they are handed because the tabs are off-set and that the half etch marks on the sides and rear are on the inside. Do not use force but a small click may be heard when they mate properly. Make sure they are fully inserted and then, with the Rear Plate (111) and Front Plate (112) held between them to ensure they are vertical, lightly solder in place. Remove Gangway Side Plates (127,128) from the fret, carefully bend to the shape shown on the Footplate (92) and solder into place. The tabs at the top fit into the Front Plate (112). The curve of these parts should slot into the Footplate (92) to full depth. Carefully remove Gangway Side Plate Tops (129,130) from the fret, remove any excess of the tags and solder in place. The half etched side should fit over the bent Gangway Side Plates (127,128). A small piece of rectangular hardwood or similar is very useful to make sure these are flat and reduces the risk of fingers being singed. Side Plate Tops (129,130) Gangways (127,128) Wide Front Tender Shown 0.45 mm Brass Wire 22. Front Side Plates 23. Tender Top Tender Hoists ( ) Coal Retainer Front (164) Clear the holes in Gangway Side Plate Tops (129,130) and Footplate (92) to 0.45 mm. Add 0.45 mm brass wire between them to form the grab handles, filing the top flat. Tender Top For a standard tender with scoop mechanism, remove the rectangle from the rear of the top plate, this will allow handles to be soldered from the underneath when it is time to fit them. ROD Tenders had the rear coal plate much nearer the back, use the half etch lines as a fitting guide and push out the rivets from the underside. Do not remove the rectangular hole. Drill out the half etch round hole for the filler, fit the base support, then the filler (Drwg. 267) then the top and finally the handle. Coal Retainer Rear (165) Top Plate (121) Coal Hole Side Plates (123,124) Locker Shelf (126) Remove Tender Hoists ( ) and Top Plate (121) from the fret. Fold Tender Hoists ( ) and solder onto Top Plate (121) using the etched rectangles and the picture opposite as a guide, ensuring that the hoist brackets have the vertical part on the outside of the centre line. This will mean that the set of etched slots should be on the right edge of the Top Plate (121). Remove Coal Plate (122), Coal Hole Side Plates (123,124), Locker (125) and Locker Shelf (126), Coal Retainer Front (164) and Coal Retainer Rear (165) from the fret. Coal Retainer Front (164) and Coal retainer Rear (165) have a small notch at each side at the bottom where it seats into the Coal Plate (122) Locker (125) 24. Coal Slide and Cupboard 25. Coal Slide and Cupboard Page 13

14 Tender Body Assembly. This notch is designed to sit on top of the Tender Left and Right Side Plates (113,114). Scoop Wheels (131,132) Check the assembly of these parts and when satisfied fit and lightly solder in place. Ensure the hole for the scoop drive in Coal Retainer Front (164) is on the right side. At this stage it should be possible to fit the Tender Top Assembly into the Tender Body Assembly so that the rear of the Tender Top rests of the supports at the back of the tender and the two bottom tabs on Coal Hole Side Plates (123,124) will slot into the footplate. If extra strengthening is needed then a flat bar, brass, can be soldered against the tender top and the Coal Hole Side Plates (110, 111), almost to the back end of the tender top or the spare Top Plate Support Brackets (180,181) may be used. While Yeadon refers to early and late tenders as Type B only (probably meaning narrow and wide fronts respectively) the early ones had a lower rear plate (Coal Retainer Rear (165) and there is a half etch line where this part may be broken as needed. For the later tenders, assuming the full height part, fill the half etch line with 0.3 mm brass wire and file flat. Rear Coal Plate - alternative position Hinges 26. Scoop Mechanism Rear Front Scoop Box (135) Centre Scoop Box (136) Main Scoop Lever Cover (137) It has been suggested that the lower coal plate may have been fitted a little to the rear on some tenders - see sketch. Scoop Mechanism The Scoop mechanism is represented by Scoop Wheel (131,132), Front Scoop Cover (133,134), Front Scoop Box (135), Centre Scoop Box (136) and Main Scoop Lever Cover (137). If you do no fit this (ROD locomotives for example) then use the so-called slot fillers on the etch to blank off the locating holes - if needed. Remove Scoop Wheels (131,132), Front Scoop Cover (133,134), Front Scoop Box (135), Centre Scoop Box (136) and Main Scoop Lever Cover (137) from the fret. After checking that the tabs and slots align and fit, fold these to the correct shape with the etched parts on the inside, insert into the Top Plate (121) ensuring that the right hand edges of Centre Scoop Box (136) will not protrude past the curved coal rail when it is fitted. Solder lightly in place. Remove Water Tank Filler and Scoop (138) from the fret and bend to shape. This is a complex form and all half etches are on the inside of the bends. The tabs will fit into the three slots on the tank top. Do this slowly and carefully, force should not be needed. Once it is in place remove Hinges ( ) and add where shown. To complete the appearance a short length of 0.3 mm wire may be soldered across the top of each. Add three handles from 0.3 mm wire to the Water Tank Filler. Solder the Scoop Wheels (131,132) together to create a solid body. Add Front Scoop Cover (133,134) and thread a 0.45 mm wire through Scoop Wheels (131,132) and solder into place. Alternatively Alan Gibson does very nice cast version. Front Scoop Cover (133,134) Scoop Wheel (131,132) 27. Scoop Mechanism Front Curved Tender Sides (139,140) Curved Tender Back (141) 0.5 mm overlap 28. Curved Valence Showing relationship of tender side, curved part and coal plate. 0.5 mm overlap Page 14

15 Tender Flared Sides and Back The flared sides are made from half etched brass and are delicate to handle. Extra material is provided just in case... They must be curved longitudinally and this is difficult to achieve with a degree of accuracy. They overlap the tender sides by 0.5 mm. Coal Plates Welded (142,143) Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ) Coal Plate Stiffener Angles ( ) Remove Tender Curved Sides (139,140) and Tender Curved Back (141) from the fret and carefully file off any remaining tags. Curve the two side pieces using your preferred method. A piece of camping mat and a 4.0 mm brass rod are ideal. Alternatively wrap the sides against the rod using tape and then gently use a piece of balsa or similar, tease the part into shape. I have also used an old dentist s tool (one that looked like a miniature spoon) to do this against a piece of camping mat. 29. Side Coal Rail Supports Solder the two side pieces in place first noting that they overlap the tender side plates at the top by about 0.5 mm. This is a fiddle to achieve but a trusted piece of balsa will help to keep them in place while soldering. the curves on the Front and Rear Coal Retainers (164,165) will assist alignment. Solder paste is the best here, a light touch is good. Once the two sides are in place then it is time to cut the curves on the rear flared side. Do one side first and fit carefully. Hasten slowly or you may find yourself having to buy some Brass Sheet to replace it. Cut and file so that the rear flare is a slightly tight fit between the two side flares and solder into place. Now trim the side flares with care, filing towards the centre of the tender to avoid tearing. Coal Plates and Stiffeners There are three variations for the Coal Plates of which the solid is the most usual. Alternatively the barred version may be fitted and this may have a solid plate on either side of the bars. The barred version have a sharper corner at the upper edges than the solid steel version. that after grouping, the plates were usually fitted inside the bars whereas earlier they were fitted outside the bars. Remember also that late version tenders (wide fronts) almost always had the longer steel side coal plates. The shorter steel side coal plates were fitted to the earlier (narrow front) tenders. Solid Steel Version Remove the Coal Plates Welded (142,143) and the Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ) from the fret. The Coal Plates Welded (142,143) have sets of half etch dots in four places to indicate where the Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ) are to be soldered. Make sure that when the Coal Plates Welded (142,143) are fitted on top of the flares, Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ) are on the inside face. (Don t ask!). The Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ) should be curved at the bottom tp match the flare - trim as needed so they sit on the top of the tender body side. Solder the Coal Plates Welded (142,143) to the flares noting that they should sit on the outside of the flared section. There is a vertical half etch line which should help locate the exact position against the Coal Retainer Rear (165). The sharper curve of Coal Plates Welded (142,143 is at the front and the end with the stiffener closest to the end at the rear. The Coal Plate Stiffener Angles ( ) need careful consideration. They fit into the slots on Coal Plate Stiffeners ( ). They are shaped so that they overlap the flared sides but if you wish to cover the top of the tender with coal then the curved parts can be removed. On the side with the scoop covers it is easier to trim these off anyway. Beading can be attached (it was on the original tenders) around the top and on the top edge of the flared sections. A half round D section is supplied with the kit. As an alternative use 0.7 mm brass wire which is carefully filed down its length through the centre line. that the beading did come adrift in use and some pictures show it was not continuous Page 15

16 31. You Are Here (Narrow Front) 32. You Are Here (Wide Front) Barred Coal Plates Having decided whether to use just the barred plates or the barred plates with backing, remove Coal Plates Barred (144,145) and (if needed) Coal Plates Barred Back ( ) from the fret. Solder together using liquid solder and carefully clean up. Solder onto the body. On occasion the barred part was on the inside and at other times it was on the outside, post-grouping and pre-grouping respectively. Front Foot Plate Remove the Front Foot Plate (170) from the fret and fold into shape. Solder into position so that the two 10 BA nuts on the tender base are now hidden. Now it is time to do all the fiddly bits! Tools Remove Tool Holder (175,176) from the fret and solder together. Once cleaned solder onto the left tender flare immediately behind the Coal Retainer Front(164). Remove Tool Supports (177,178) from the fret, solder together and then solder onto the tender immediately behind the first stiffener on the left Page Tool Holders Tool Supports (177,178) Lamp Brackets ( ) - folded Tool Holder (175,176) Lamp Brackets ( ) - partially folded 34. Lower Lamp Brackets

17 Lamp Brackets Remove Lamp Brackets ( ) from the fret and fold to the shape shown. There are a couple of spares to use as practice. Remove Lamp Bracket Top (174) from the fret, fold to the shape shown and affix to the rear of the tender so that the long tail curves down the rear flare. There are a couple of lamp brackets fitted on the inside of the left front tender side plates. Remove Cab Side Lamp Holders (197,198) from the fret and solder into place. Rear Hand Rails Handrails knobs often are a personal choice and suitable ones may be obtained from Alan Gibson or Markits. The ones provided may be used with a length of 0.45 mm brass wire trimmed at each end for the horizontal rail. The vertical rails are simply soldered into the body with a 0.7 mm gap to the body. Valence Lamp Bracket Top (174) - partially folded Cab Side Lamp Holders (197,198) - partially folded 35. Upper Lamp Bracket Lamp Bracket Top (174) - folded It is perfectly valid to use L shape brass section 2 mm x 1 mm for the valence. However, this means seating the steps will need a small adjustment and there is a half etch on the step plates which hold the steps which must be removed to get the correct height. 36. Lamp Brackets on Front of Tender Fitting the valence on each side of the tender must be done with the tender chassis fitted. Remove Valences (93,94) from the fret and trim to fit snugly but not tightly. Remember when soldering these in place there will be a slight expansion because of the heat. Position these in place about 0.5 mm from the edge of the footplate and trim to an exact length if needed - it really is that close. Support these if needed, a double piece of standard PCB may be used to get the valence on in a straight line. Check that the tender chassis can be easily removed. Steps The steps are bent in two places (see the pattern of the rivets on the front buffer). Don t over-emphasise this since they must match the steps on the locomotives and the centre ones are very close to the coupling rods. The rivets on the front buffer beam overlay are just to the inside of the step plate position, an L shaped bracket was used to fix them on the prototype. 37. Steps Step Plates (95-98) Steps Upper and Lower (99-106) Valences (93,94) 38. Steps and Valence On some of the locomotives the centre steps were removed to tackle the problem of the coupling rods hitting the steps. Remove Step Plates (95-98) and Steps Upper and Lower (99-106), from the fret. Solder the steps in place and then solder this assembly behind the valences at front and rear of the tender. Heat sinks are a good thing here and make life a lot easier. There is a full set of spare parts with which to practice - or they may be used on the locomotive to make RTR models a better match. that the steps should not overlap the front of the front plate and the rear of the rear plate or you will find it difficult to separate the chassis from the body. 39. Steps and Valence and Rear Support Page 17

18 Remove Step Supports ( ) from the fret and fit between the back of the steps and the top of the chassis - thus locking the frame and body together. Do not solder to the frame should you need to separate chassis and body in the future. The top segment of the Step Supports may be slightly shortened so that it is easier to separate the chassis and body. Buffers Again these are a personal choice and this choice will also depend of the period, some later buffers had stepped LNER versions. Locomotive Coupling Most modellers seem to prefer a simple hook and eye arrangement which allows tender and locomotive to be manhandled separately. This tender can have a sprung coupling which is the same as the original but a fixed coupling is supplied. Hinged Front Plate (191) is provided if you wish to hinge this on the tender (more usual than not) - use a couple of the spare hinges on the fret if you wish. Axle Boxes and Springs The axle boxes and springs are white metal so it is probably best to glue them in place. To allow for springing the rear of the axle box will need a slot slightly over 2 mm wide opened in them. that the centre set of springs is slightly wider at 3 6. Make sure that most of the leaves on the spring are visible. Scoop All Scoop parts are folded with the half etch on the outside, so that they can fold through 180 degrees. Remove Scoop Left Outer (199), Scoop Left Inner (200), Scoop Centre (201), Scoop Right Inner (202) and Scoop Right Outer from the fret. Use a small piece of hardwood and drill through one of the scoop parts into the hardwood with a 0.45 mm drill, so that a piece of 0.45 mm brass wire may be used to mount all the parts together and solder them firmly with plenty of solder. Remove Scoop Lift (204,205) from the fret, bend to shape and solder together so that the assembly will fit over the front hole in the scoop. File the two sides so that the half etch parts on the outside is smoothed over. Mount the scoop into the base of the well tank using the two slots on the bottom, ensuring of course that it is pointing forwards (again - don t ask!). 40. Scoop Beading Beading was only applied to the solid steel coal rails, not to the barred versions or the barred versions with overlays. Often the beading would be missing from parts of the upper tender, especially along the bottom of the steel plates just above the curved flares. Page 18

19 It is worth annealing this using the usual domestic appliance (the hob on the cooker), and then curve to shape. Anneal again to maintain the bendability. Water Taps If you feel they are needed, then remove Water Taps (195,196) from the fret and place on the front of the tender. It is easier to add these if you push a short length of 0.45 mm brass wire through the centre hole, solder with a little Nealetin, then add Nealetin to the top of the tender. A quick dab with a very hot iron will seal these in place. Trim the 0.45 mm wire to represent the actual tap and clean as much as possible. Handbrake The handbrake should fit on the Foot Plate (92), i.e. through the floor of the Front Footplate (170). It may either be cut short and soldered into the Front Footplate (170), or the hole opened out so that it will solder into the foot plate. The two holes are aligned and an additional small strap may be added from a piece of scrap to the top of the Handbrake Pull (74). This is so well hidden from casual view Painting The surfaces must be clean in preparation for painting. I clean them with Vim (and a little vigour), JIF/CIF, methylated spirits and anything I can get hold of at the time, and it is never perfect. I think a self etching primer is helpful but always be prepared to scrape clean and repair imperfect places. One you are happy with the primer/undercoat then the majority of tenders will be either black or lined black in LNER style with the exception of those which were coupled to fast passenger trains in GCR days. (Stanier said that the railways could have a Class Five provided it was black perhaps echoing the thoughts of Henry Ford) 41. Beading 42. Water Taps Beading on top of coal plate Steel Side Plate Only Curved Flare - beading on underside (almost) overlaps flare and bottom of coal plate Water Taps 195,196) Tenders attached to passengers engines may have been Great Central Green which is alleged to be Brunswick Green, of which there were at least three versions. Arguments about this will rage for ever. Some tenders will have been LNER Apple Green - if anybody can define what that looks like today. If you wish to line your tender in Great Central fashion that that is a real challenge! Weight Whatever your predilections are regarding weighting your kits, there is plenty of room in the Well Tank for additional lumps of lead. Ensure these are solidly fixed. Wheels The wheels used on the prototypes were standard Alan Gibson 4 3 (4851). The actual wheels used when new were 4 4 so the modeller must assume some wear has taken place. For P4 it is better to use springing and in this case make sure the area between the spring mounts and the back of the frame is not painted so that it can be lightly oiled. Depending on the axle length of the pin point bearing these may be soldered either into the front (recessed) or the rear. The steel spring is soldered using a good dowsing of flux across the top and it can then be slipped into the frame using the slots in Well Tank Side Braces (6-9). If you are a CSB fan then the support slots these parts are designed at the correct spacing. that the slots which hold two springs must be used such that the spring wires alternate front and back or there is a small risk of a short circuit. Once the B-B for P4 has been confirmed as correct (the small tool recently available from the Scalefour Society Stores is excellent for this), the pin point axles can be slipped in place and then the outer frames finally soldered into place - if done earlier then the wheels have to be forced into place or more usually file a triangular slot so that they can more easily be pushed in. Page 19

20 For EM, where springing may not always be used, the spring mounts may be soldered in place at the level indicated on the outer frames by the half etch marks. Suitable tender wheels are also available from Ultrascale and Exactoscale but different arrangements for fitting may apply. And finally Of course there are many other ways of building this kit and your designer looks forwards to hearing about them. If possible, should the builder do things differently than as described above, then it may be possible to add such changes to later versions of these instruction. Contact Details Preferred contact details are or via the web site at John Bateson Great Central Models Buckley North Wales 12 November 2011 Page 20

21 43. GCR Tender Version 3.1 Etch Page 21

22 Morayshire visits the Llangollen Railway in summer 2010, one of the few GC tenders still in use today Page 22