Fishing Rod Building. Coin Collecting DOING PURPOSE PURPOSE. 3. Coin Mints USA Canada

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Antony Morris
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Try not to move a piece twice in the opening. If you do, it is probably because you did not position the piece properly in the earlier move. Do not develop the queen prematurely.

Try to control the center four squares. b. The middle (moves 10 40) If both players deployed soundly in the opening, this is where the real battle takes place.

1 Try not to move a piece twice in the opening. If you do, it is probably because you did not position the piece properly in the earlier move. Do not develop the queen prematurely. Sometimes advance the knight pawn one square and move the bishop to the knight s rank two. The bishop then shoots across the center of the board to the opponent s rook. Try to control the center four squares. b. The middle (moves 10 40) If both players deployed soundly in the opening, this is where the real battle takes place. Try to capture an opponent s piece without losing one in return, or trade a weaker piece for a more powerful one. Pawns are important watch their placement and don t throw them away. In play between equally skilled players the loss of a pawn without gaining something in return usually means defeat. c. The end (moves 30 to the end) The end game commences after most of the pieces have been removed from the board. Frequently the king comes out to join the attack. If one player has the advantage, he must successfully mate his opponent. If the game is balanced and neither side can gain an advantage, they usually agree to a draw. Coin Collecting To help your Cadets explore a hobby that is not only interesting, but can teach him something of history, geography, economics, art, etc. LEARNING 1. Uncirculated a coin that has never been used and is undamaged. Very fine, fine, very good, good and poor designating the amount of wear a coin has had. Face value the value shown on the face of the coin. This does not say how valuable the coin actually is. Certain uncirculated one-cent pieces from the 1900s in the US are worth more than $100. But their face value is still A coin catalog describes the various coins that have been minted throughout the world. It also tells the current value of each (depending on how current the catalog is) and where famous coin collections are located. It may also list various sources for purchasing coins. A type set is a coin collection based on coin design or type. Traditional collections consist of all dates within a series. 3. Coin Mints USA Canada Circulating Philadelphia, PA Ottawa, ON Denver, CO Winnipeg, MB Non-circulating San Francisco, CA Ottawa, ON West Point, NY Winnipeg, MB DOING A recent coin catalog would be a good investment for your club if many Cadets are interested in this merit badge. It will give you all the information you need to pass the requirements here. OTHER SUGGESTIONS Hobby merit badges are best done on an individual basis, however to do this badge as a cadre: 1. Each Cadet must complete all requirements under Learning and Doing. 2. Make a cadre display of all their collections. Fishing Rod Building This merit badge will increase a boy s God-given craftsmanship skills and his patience, and will give him confidence in his abilities. He will also have gained a fishing pole that he made himself. LEARNING 1. Some of the many different types of fishing rods include bait casting, fly, spinning, ultra light spinning, cane (bamboo), trolling, ice fishing, and downriggers. There are two basic types of freshwater tackle fly casting and bait casting. Heavier rods and reels of the bait-casting type are used in saltwater fishing; trolling and casting from the surf are the usual methods. The familiar bamboo pole, without reel, continues to be used for still fishing. Fishing with handlines (or small simple poles) through holes in the ice is also popular. TIP 2. Fishing pole parts STRIPPER GUIDE GUIDES ROD BLANK HOOK KEEPER REEL SEAT HANDLE BUTT OR END CAP 52 EXPLORING: HOBBIES: CHESS, COIN COLLECTING, and FISHING ROD BUILDING

3. a. Single foot guides give you more flex in your rod blank and can be used on light action blanks. b. Double foot guides are more durable than single foot guides and work on spinning or casting rods.

The underwrap is the thread that gets wrapped first around the bare rod blank.

It s beneficial on heavy rods that receive much strain, but may have a dampening effect on a light rod. The overwrap would be wrapped directly over the underwrap and/or guide feet.

6. Rod power can be light, medium, or heavy. The term describes the stiffness of the fishing rod. 7.

2 3. a. Single foot guides give you more flex in your rod blank and can be used on light action blanks. b. Double foot guides are more durable than single foot guides and work on spinning or casting rods. c. Snake guides are good for fly rods. d. Roller guides should be used for trolling rods or if a wire line is going to be used. 4. The underwrap is the thread that gets wrapped first around the bare rod blank. Two purposes of the underwrap include making a more decorative rod, and protecting the rod blank from the metal guide feet. It s beneficial on heavy rods that receive much strain, but may have a dampening effect on a light rod. The overwrap would be wrapped directly over the underwrap and/or guide feet. The overwrap can be done with the same thread as the underwrap or with a second color thread. 5. Rod action is described as being fast, medium, or slow. The action refers to the movement of the tip. 6. Rod power can be light, medium, or heavy. The term describes the stiffness of the fishing rod. 7. A stripper guide gathers the line as it comes off the reel and sends it down to the narrower guides. MASKING TAPE DOING Each person making a rod will need a rod holder, which can easily be made out of 1" 6" ( cm) scraps. They are approximately 41 (140 cm) long. The ends are about 7" (18 cm) high with a V notch at the top. These are screwed into the end nothing fancy, just practical. 1. First, put three or four pieces of masking tape on the pole. Hold the rod at about a 30 angle, with the thicker part resting on the table and your hand supporting the tip. With your other hand, push down on the middle of the pole. As it bends down, EXPLORING: HOBBIES: FISHING ROD BUILDING it may also try to rotate. Let it happen. When it does, make note of which side of the pole is at the top. Use a pencil to mark the one tape at the top. Check the rod again. If the pencil mark is indeed at the top, mark all pieces of tape at the top. The markings will provide a reference for the eyelets. If you can, lay the marked rod in a picnic table seam to make sure the lines are straight. You can do the same thing later to make sure the eyelets are straight. 2. Guide wraps When wrapping, it is important to keep the thread tension constant to keep a good tight wrap, but not so tight that there is danger of breaking the thread. One simple way to apply tension to your wrapping thread is to place the thread in a cup on the floor behind your chair. Place the thread over the chair seat and sit on it. Another option is to put the cup with the spool on the table next to one or more books. Run your wrapping thread under the books. Increase the tension by adding books or by adding a plastic jug of water on top of the books. a. Start a guide wrap by looping your rod winding thread from the spool around the rod blank. Then bring the loose end of the thread around the rod on the side of the direction you want to wrap. Apply pressure as shown to maintain tension. Note: You may wrap with the rod turning toward you or with the rod turning away from you. b. While keeping tension on the tag end, rotate the rod and lay the thread from the spool over the tag end to hold it down. Continue with five or six more turns over the end. This should be enough to secure it. Cut away the excess tag end with a nail clipper or razor blade and proceed to wrap up onto the guide foot. Continue wrapping up onto the guide foot. Once your wrapping has secured the guide foot, you should remove the tape holding the guide in place. 53

3 c. Stop wrapping approximately six turns before you reach the guide leg and insert a loop of thread as shown. This is your tie-off loop. You may use a short length of rod winding thread, monofilament line, or a sturdy thread. Do not use standard sewing thread as it tends to break easily. d. Finish wrapping up the guide foot. Be sure the tie-off loop is large enough so you won t have to fumble around for it in the next step. Also note that the tie-off loop always faces in the direction you re wrapping. Important: Be sure to maintain tension on the main thread as you proceed. e. Hold the guide wrap in place as you cut the thread feeding from the spool. With your other hand, insert the new tag end into the tie-off loop. Make sure the thread is long enough to extend beyond the loop as you go on to the next step. f. While still holding the main wrap, start to pull the tie-off loop through the guide wrap. As the tag end is drawn into and under the guide wrap, release your finger hold. With practice, this will become a single motion. g. Give the tag end a tug to make sure it s snug; then use a razor blade (or nail clipper) to cut it as close to the wrap as possible without damaging your work. Use the rounded, polished handle of your nail clipper to burnish the thread and close any gaps in your rod wrap. No matter how careful you are, you may still have a tiny bit of thread coming out from the wrap. It happens and it s usually best to forget about it for now. Once you ve applied a coat of rod finish and allowed it to cure, you ll be able to go back and slice it off cleanly with a razor blade. Subsequent finish coats will cover the slice. Use a thin single-edged blade for this fine work. Because almost all shaving blades come coated with an oily lubricant, clean the blades with denatured alcohol before using them on your custom rod. If the lubricant gets into the wrapping thread, it could leave a dark stain and/or contaminate the rod finish, leaving little pockmark holes known as fish-eyes. If you choose to use an underwrap and overwrap, use a light color thread for the underwrap and a darker color for the overwrap. A darker underwrap tends to bleed through a lighter overwrap. For examples of some guide wraps, see the examples at the end of this merit badge. 3. Building your fishing rod a. Find the spine of the rod as explained in Doing #1. b. Handles 1) Lay out handle to reel slot to handle and mark on rod blank with a pencil. Predrill cork rings just shy of the narrow handle dimension. Remember the taper! With a round tapered file or rasp, finish holes individually to fit snugly on the blank. Each ring must be checked and the drilled hole adjusted for a specific position on the rod blank. Be sure to keep them in order (write numbers on them on flat edges where they re glued together). 2) When both the fore and rear grips are drilled and adjusted, mix a small amount of epoxy. Just before placing the cork rings into place, coat the blank with a thin layer of epoxy glue. First, glue the bottom cork in place by sliding the cork down over the glue just 54 EXPLORING: HOBBIES: FISHING ROD BUILDING

4 beyond the end. Add a small amount of glue to the top of the bottom cork ring and slide it back up. Gently slide the cork rings in turn onto the blank, adding a thin layer of epoxy to the top before adding the next ring. Do not force the rings as the cork will expand and may crack. 3) The butt cap may be glued on at this time also. Cut down the rear cork to fit the butt cap. Measure the inside length of the butt cap and mark this length by placing masking tape that distance from the end of the rear grip. Use a file to remove the cork below this mark taking off only enough to provide a snug fit. If you take off too much, use masking tape to build the handle back up so that the butt cap and handle are a snug fit. 4) To make your own cork handle clamp, you will need just a few things (listed in inches, centimeters in parenthesis): 2 2¾ 2 6½ ( ) wood 2 ¼ (.64 61) threaded rod 4 ¼ 20 (.64) hex nuts 6 washers 2 ¼ 20 (.64) wing nuts Drill a ¾" hole in the center of one wood ¾" When all the rings have been placed on the blank, push the cork rings together. Clamp the cork rings of the rear grip until the epoxy cures. Carefully wipe off excess epoxy. c. Reel seat 1) The rod blank above the rear grip must be built up with bushings to hold the reel seat piece and ⅜" holes at the ends of this piece. Drill ¼" holes in the ends of the other wood piece. Place the threaded rod through the side holes and attach as shown. 5) snugly in place. Take narrow masking tape, start ⅛" down from your top mark of reel seat and make a bushing. To make a bushing, wrap the masking tape evenly and smoothly around the rod to the inside diameter of the reel seat. Build up tape so that reel seat is snug to bushing check for fit. Make a second bushing ⅛" up from cork rear grip. Check for fit. Lastly, fill in center, spacing with ⅛" to ¼" gaps. Hint: Cover the threads of the reel seat with masking tape to keep epoxy off when gluing. You can also tape cork handle. 2) Do not glue the reel seat until the cork rings for the foregrip are drilled and adjusted. Make sure you align the reel seat with center lines making sure the reel feet hoods are aligned with the center lines where the guides will be placed. The tape bushings are only used as spacers; the attachment of the reel seat must be a strong bond of epoxy glue extending from the rod blank to the reel seat. Put epoxy between first gap; then slide reel seat over epoxy onto next bushing. Use only a small amount of epoxy on bushings. Repeat process up to end bushing. Be careful on the last gap and cork handle. Do not get epoxy on the cork it s hard to get off! d. Handle fore grip After the reel seat is installed, glue and push together the fore grip cork rings in the same manner as you did the rear grip (Doing #3-b-2). Again clean excess epoxy glue from the cork handle and from the reel seat. Clamp the handle assembly until the epoxy cures. e. If desired, shape the rod handle with hand tools. Protect the butt cap, reel seat, and the rod blank EXPLORING: HOBBIES: FISHING ROD BUILDING 55

5 above the handle with a layer or two of masking tape. Initial shaping of the cork grips can be done with files. Be sure to remove equal amounts of cork from all sides of the cork grip to keep the grip centered on the rod blank. Sand paper should be used for final shaping and finishing of cork handles. Start with a coarse grit and continue on through medium and fine grit. Then remove the protective masking tape from the butt cap, reel seat, and rod blank. (The butt cap can be added at this point if it s not already on. Follow the instructions found for it in Doing #3-b-3.) Note: Foam handles can be used in place of cork for both the fore and rear grips. They are easy to install and adjust. Check the Internet or instruction booklets on rod building for instructions on installing foam grips. This type of grip does not require clamping. (One suggestion is to check the Flex Coat website at or their booklet, Step by Step Rod Building.) f. Rod tip When installing the tip top on your blank, use a good hot melt tip top glue adhesive. These special adhesives maintain a high strength bond in all temperatures and are specially made for this purpose. 1) Scrape the tip of the rod clean with a knife back to the length of the tip top to remove the finish or any old adhesive. 2) Heat adhesive stick with a lighter or kitchen match; the flame should not come into contact with the glue stick. When it is melted, coat the scraped area on the blank. While glue is still hot, place a small amount into the open end of the tip top. 3) Heat both the tip top and the adhesive on the rod, being careful not to overheat them. 4) Push the tip top completely onto the rod tip and align with the intended position of the guides and reel seat. This type of glue can be reheated to adjust the position of the tip top. g. Using a file or Dremel tool, file guide feet to a thin taper for a smooth thread transition. You are now ready for wrapping your guides. Underwraps are optional; you may use masking tape, superglue, or hot melt glue to hold your guides onto the rod blank. Constantly check for straightness. Determine your thread measurements and mark them on the rod blank. You can wrap up to the guide rise or go beyond it. Be sure that your wraps on double foot guides are the same on both sides. Aesthetically, guide wraps should become shorter and smaller as the guides get to the end of the rod. The wrap design is up to the individual. h. Apply one or two coats of color preserver. Apply even coats and let dry. This will darken the thread a little bit. i. Apply wrapping finish. Follow instructions carefully. Make sure to use the same amounts of resin and hardener. Note yellow and black bottles. Use syringes yellow and black with appropriate GUIDE WRAP STARTS ¹/8" FROM GUIDE FOOT AND ¹/16" TAG WRAP DOUBLE FOOT SPINNING OR CASTING GUIDE ULTRALIGHT SPINNING GUIDE GUIDE WRAP AND TWO ¹/8" TAG WRAPS CASTING GUIDE UNDERWRAP WITH OVERWRAP ONE CONTINUOUS UNDER- WRAP WITH OVERWRAP AND TWO ¹/8" TAG WRAP SINGLE FOOT SPINNING GUIDE SHORT SIMPLE WRAPS ARE BEST ON FLY AND ULTRALIGHT RODS ONE CONTINUOUS UNDER- WRAP WITH OVERWRAP AND THREE ¹/8" TAG WRAPS FLY SNAKE GUIDE REINFORCED CASTING AND BOAT GUIDE ROLLER GUIDE ONE CONTINUOUS UNDERWRAP WITH TWO DOUBLE OVERWRAPS AND THREE ¹/8" TAG WRAPS 56 EXPLORING: HOBBIES: FISHING ROD BUILDING

bottle. You will be able to reuse the syringes if you don t accidentally switch bottles or clean them. Mix two equal parts. Stir gently and avoid bubbles if possible.

Try to put on one even coating (one thick coat is better than one or two thin coats). Keep rotating pole, doing all the eyelets. Cover the edges of the thread. Try not to get finish on pole.

6 bottle. You will be able to reuse the syringes if you don t accidentally switch bottles or clean them. Mix two equal parts. Stir gently and avoid bubbles if possible. Mixture will be cloudy at first and become clear when mixed. Using your rod holder, brush on epoxy finish while rotating rod. Try to put on one even coating (one thick coat is better than one or two thin coats). Keep rotating pole, doing all the eyelets. Cover the edges of the thread. Try not to get finish on pole. Rotate the pole ½ turns until the finish has set up from ½ hour to 1 hour or more. Setting time depends on measurements and temperatures. A hair dryer will help drying time. Rotations do not have to be fast. When drying occurs, rotation can be done with ¼ or ½ turns. Check the finish for slumping. If slumping occurs, rotate pole accordingly. Let the pole set overnight to make sure the finish is set. Check for hardness of finish if it s set, you may add stickers to your pole. Hints 1. Warm bottles if possible. This will help avoid bubbles and speed setting time. 2. Do not use paper cups or wood sticks to mix the epoxy finish since these items will introduce small bubbles into the mix. 3. Be sure your syringes are not contaminated with silicone. Silicone is found in medical syringes and on monofilament. Silicone will cause the finish to fish-eye or separate from the rod blank and wraps. 4. Unequal amounts of resin and hardener, or poor mixing will result in an uncured sticky finish. To correct this, re-coat the wraps. Be sure to accurately measure and mix the new batch of finish. This accurately measured and well-mixed finish should take care of the problem. 5. If your resin crystallizes, heat the bottle in hot (not boiling) water. This reheated resin will not damage the finish. Thanks to Flex Coat Company, Inc. from Driftwood, Texas, for permission to use their illustrations. They recommend a first custom rod project be an ultralight spinning rod. You can contact them at or write them at PO Box 190, Driftwood, Texas 78619, USA. Fly Tying To help your Cadets explore an interesting hobby and thus begin to discover and develop their God-given abilities. LEARNING 1. Fly-tyer s vise to hold the fish hook firmly while tying the fly. Hackle pliers for holding feathers and delicate bits of material during the winding operation. Other equipment might include: scissors, flat tweezers, a dubbing needle, a hook hone, sewing needles anchored in wooden handles, safety razor blade, spool-holder or thread holders. 2. Parts of a fly TOPPING UNDERWING TAIL DOING TAG BODY This should be self-explanatory. If you are not an expert in fly tying, it would be best if the flies are tied from a kit so you can check them against the instructions. Gardening WING PROPER BUTT CHEEK RIBBING HEAD SHOULDER HACKLE HACKLE To help your Cadets explore land science as a hobby, thus discovering more about God s creation as well as their own interests and abilities. LEARNING AND DOING 1. Let them plan whatever crops they wish. However, make certain that the crops selected are to be planted in the correct season. EXPLORING: HOBBIES: FISHING ROD BUILDING, FLY TYING, and GARDENING 57

STUDY GUIDE A Day By Day Course Refreshment Quiz To Ensure That You Make The Most Out Of Your Rod Building Class

STUDY GUIDE A Day By Day Course Refreshment Quiz To Ensure That You Make The Most Out Of Your Rod Building Class DAY ONE: 1) Why would you want to build your own fishing rod? a. It s fun and rewarding b. You can customize your rod to your needs c. You can save money d. All of the Above 2) The main part of a fishing