CHAPTER 3: ADVANCED PIECE MENU FUNCTION by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor

Transcription

1 CHAPTER 3: ADVANCED PIECE MENU FUNCTION by Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Ph.D. Professor You will learn to use the following functions in the Piece menu: Add Pleats Add and Manipulate Darts Add fullness Asymmetrically fold pieces 1. Pleats The Piece menu-> Pleats can be used to make the following types of pleats: Knife pleats are grouped and all faced in one direction. Box or inverted- Box pleats are folded away from each other. Inverted pleats are folded to meet themselves. Variable pleat- is wider at one end than the other. Tapered pleat- is open at one end and tapers to nothing at the other. 1.1 To Create Knife Pleats 1) Open SKIRF in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. 2) Fold 2 darts. Add 2 digitized lines in the dart location 3) Select Piece menu- >Pleats-> Knife Pleat 4) Select pleat line (e.g. a Pleat lay side digitized line) 5) Enter half of underlay=0.25 (1/2 Underlay underlay is equal to the Pleat open side finished width of the pleat), Enter number of pleat=1 6) Select pleat open/lay side.

2 NOTE: Box underlay is a distance equal to twice the depth of the pleat. The pleat depth is the distance from the outside fold of the pleat to the inside fold. 1.2 To Create Box Pleats 1) Open and copy BODICEB in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename (e.g. BODICEBOX). 2) Delete unnecessary points. Fold darts. Modify sideline (Line menu-> Modify line-> Move range). Add digitized line for the pleat location. 3) Select Piece menu->pleats-> Box Pleat 4) Select pleat line (e.g. a digitized line) 5) Enter half of underlay=0.25 (Box ½ underlay is equal to ½ width of the pleat), Enter number of pleat= To Create Variable Pleats 1) Open and copy SLEEVE in Pleat Line C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename (e.g. SLEEVEPLEAT). Fold darts. Open End 2) Select Variable Pleats 3) Create slash lines from pivot to open end. 4) Stationary point Select a point to remain stationary. 5) Select internal line to move. 6) Move cursor to open pleat at pivot end. First, spread the stationary point, then click LM button. Second, spread the open point, then click LM button. This way makes you to create different amount of the widths. 7) Select Knife or Box pleat. 1.4 To Create Taper Pleats 1) Open and copy SLEEVE in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename (e.g. SLEEVETAPER). 2) Same method as above. Taper stationary point

3 2. Manipulating Darts Manipulating darts is important for garment looks and fits. A dart consists of an apex and dart legs. The apex may or may not be the pivot point. NOTE: When using pivot, combine, and distribute functions, the system generates correct grading by pivoting each size individually (e.g. Pivot point, Opening point, or new grade rules). Dart leg Apex Drill (Pivot point) 2.1 To Pivot a Dart (=Rotate Dart) NOTE: Before using this tool, the dart must be opened/unfolded. 1) Open/copy BODICEF in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Rename it. 2) Piece menu-> Darts- >Rotate. 3.New opening point 3) Select the dart to pivot. 4) Select the pivot point. 5) Select the hold line: This line maintains its orientation with the grain of the fabric and 1. Pivot point is not affected when the dart is pivoted. 2. Hold line 7) Select the new opening point. 2.2 Distribute Same Line Use to pivot dart(s) to a new location along the same line. The dart is distributed by moving (NOT pivoting). New dart open point

4 2.3 Distribute/Rotate Select Piece menu-> Darts->Distribute/Rotate. NOTE: Use to pivot the entire dart or a portion to a new location. You may use for creating multiple darts from one dart. The portion to distribute a dart can be by a percentage or a fixed dart amount. 2.4 Combine Same Line To combine 2 darts along the same line, Select Piece menu-> Darts->Combine Same Line. NOTE: Use to combine 2 darts into 1 dart in the same line by dart moving (NOT pivoting). 2.5 Combine Diff Line 1. Dart to combine 2. Rotation point Select Piece menu-> Darts->Combine Diff Line. 4. Target dart 3. Hold Line NOTE: Use to combine 2 darts into 1 dart in different locations of the piece. Darts must be unfolded to use this function.

5 2.6 Add Dart This function is useful when you create a new dart into a piece. 1) Piece menu-> Darts-> Add Dart 2) Select opening point. Select dart apex. Enter the dart width. 2.7 Add Dart with Fullness 1) Piece menu-> Darts-> Add Dart with Fullness 2) Select the dart opening 3) Select the apex point 4) Select a point on the boundary line to slash. Enter the new dart width. Point to slash Apex point Dart opening 2.8 Change Dart Tip This function is useful to change dart apex point. 2.9 Open Dart and Fold/Close Dart End This function is to change a folded dart into a cut dart and to change an open dart into a close dart Convert to Dart This function is useful to define a dart shape that created from a scratch or a draft piece. You need to convert the dart shape to darts because the dart Open end Pivot end shape from scratch are not yet recognized as Slash line darts in the system. 3. Fullness This fullness function is useful to add flare or gathers to a pattern for style purpose. The line on fullness is added/subtracted is called a slash line. Parallel fullness might be useful to lengthen or shorten a piece (such as sleeve length). 5 open 5 open Skirts using Variable Fullness

6 4. Asymmetrical Folds This function can be used to fold a piece, darts and pleats. Only one fold per piece is allowed, except Pleat Fold. NOTE: Do not confuse with different functions and uses: Piece menu->darts-> Fold/Close Dart End Piece menu-> Asymm Fold-> Dart fold Asymm Fold -> Dart fold Fold-> Match point Asymm Fold-> Unfold Practices 1. Open basic blocks in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS. Shorten the front and back pieces 8 inches (Piece/Fullness/Parallel Fullness). 2. Shorten the sleeve 13 inches (Line/Modify Line/Move Offset). 3. Modify the grain lines to fit inside the pieces. 4. Make your own flared skirts. 5. Create a raglan sleeve. Use basic blocks in C:ADM3305/BASIC BLOCKS.