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1 -+%,'.!"#$%$&'( )%#'(*+",' DISCOVERING ZIMBABWE'S NATURE AND WILDLIFE IN LUXURY writer David Bowden photographer David Bowden Apart from visiting a zoo, there are no short cuts to seeing African animals in the wild. With no direct flights, it s a long journey from Kuala Lumpur to the African continent but my flight was made more enjoyable by flying on Emirates via Dubai to the Zimbabwe capital, Harare. While many safari seekers head to South Africa there are many other options on the continent and my destination was Zimbabwe because of its natural areas, wildlife and spectacular scenery. Zimbabwe is popular with a small but growing number of travellers interested in seeing Africa s fascinating wildlife. There are several vast national parks such as Matobo Hills, Mana Pools and Hwange where the wildlife is plentiful. Luxurious safari camps and lodges adjoin most parks and it s here that visitors can relax and enjoy glamorous living despite being located in remote bush camps. Harare and Victoria Falls are the main international gateways and flying into one and out of the other ensures visitors don t have to double back in their tracks. Discerning travellers to the Zimbabwe capital Harare in southern Africa have been checking into and using Meikles Hotel as their base for over 100 years. Acclaimed as the!"#$%&'(%#)&*"&%'*$&+,-%&(.&%'#&/(-)01& Meikles offers the best facilities with gracious Zimbabwean hospitality. La Fontaine Grill is one of the city s most acclaimed restaurants and the Explorer s Bar is where adventurous visitors of a bygone era could expect to rub shoulders with the likes of Stanley and Livingstone over a refreshing Zambezi beer. 24

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3 TRAVEL GLAMPING SAFARI 2*%'&/*)0)*.#&!-3)4&("&34&3*"01& Harare was merely a stopover before heading off to Mana Pools National Park, Hwange National Park and Victoria Falls. My Zimbabwean wildlife safari was also to be my!-$%&5),3+*"5&65),3(-(7$&8,3+*"59& experience. Camps such as the boutique Kanga Camp (Mana Pools) and Somalisa Tented Camp (Hwange National Park) enable adventurous visitors to observe big game such as elephants and lions from their front row armchair position in the protected restaurant and bar of both camps. Guests stay in luxurious tented accommodation in a safe area but where wild animals still roam freely. :3,))&!;#<$#,%#-&,*-8-,.%&,-#&7$#0&,$& the quickest way to travel from one Zimbabwean safari camp to another (for some destinations, they re the only means of transportation). After arriving at the dusty dirt strip at Manu Pools I was transferred by an open-sided safari vehicle to Kanga Camp. Here, I was greeted by the friendly staff at this six-tent camp and ushered into an armchair and offered a cold beer. The staff chuckled as they greeted me to my armchair safari. Once seated, I noticed a waterhole (known as a pan on this part of the world) immediately in front of me and it was full of wild animals. The armchair safari meant that I 0*0"=%&-#,))4&',;#&%(&)#,;#&%'#&8("!"#$& of the verandah bar to see animals. It was really a unique experience as I reached for my camera to capture impala, elephants, impala, zebras and birds drinking in the shallow pools of water. Being the end of the dry season, water was restricted to areas like this pan and the animals had no choice but to come here to drink. The concept of a tent camp really needs qualifying as those operated by African Bush Camps are far removed from what most travellers would think of camping. From the outside it looks like a canvas tent but on %'#&*"$*0#1&%'#&.,8*)*%*#$&,"0&!>%7-#$& are all luxurious and very spacious. I loved the shower which was in the semi-open air on the verandah. Here, I could shower while watching elephants wallowing in the mire below my slightly elevated position. I was well protected from inquisitive animals but I could watch their activities unnoticed. Just on dusk, a solitary leopard came and drank at the pan just in front of where we dined. I dined on threecourse meal that was delicious and I enjoyed the company of my fellow travellers who were mostly on their!-$%&$,.,-*&,"0&)*;*"5&(7%&%'#*-&0-#,3& holiday. After dinner, I was escorted back to my tent by an armed member of staff as there are no fences in the camp. 26

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5 TRAVEL SAFARI TIME While enjoying my armchair safari, I was determined to join a morning safari to see animals from the back of a specially equipped safari vehicle. It wasn t long before we saw lions and during my week in Zimbabwe I saw so many lions that I had to become selective in what I photographed. Despite being early in the morning, it can be quite hot in summer (or freezing cold in winter) and the vehicle s shaded canopy and a supply of iced drinks made the journey most enjoyable. My companion on the safari was a Zimbabwe-based photographer and guide so it was a focused four hours of sighting and spending prolonged periods taking photos. We saw many animals roaming the plains and birds flying through the air with the highlight being a pack of painted dogs, one of Africa s most endangered animals. These are rarely seen and our guide took all the details to relay to the national parks authorities who monitor their sightings. 28

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7 TRAVEL SENSATIONAL SOMALISA My next destination was the vast Hwange National Park and Somalisa Camp located some 90 minutes away via another small aircraft. Waiting at the end of another dusty airstrip was a solitary vehicle and driver. It s moments like this that you appreciate 4(7-&*"$*5"*!8,"8#&/*%'*"&",%7-#=$& vastness. Hwange is best known for its #)#+',"%$&?7%&,$&%'#&!-$%&-,*"$&(.&%'#& wet season had already fallen, the animals were no longer dependent upon the few waterholes and had now become more dispersed throughout the park. However, I was rewarded when I arrived at Somalisa Camp situated next to a waterhole. Here, a herd of elephants was drinking at the camp s pond in front of the open air,,-38',*-&!-#+),8#@& My time in Somalisa was just as relaxing and as luxurious as Kanga Camp. My armchair moments were punctuated with safari drives with the highlight being the opportunity to witness a freshly killed zebra and the pecking order in which lions, vultures and hyenas devour the carcass. 30

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9 TRAVEL VICTORIA FALLS Another flight and another magical destination. Many consider Victoria Falls to be one of the world s most exhilarating natural attractions. The Zambezi River cascading over 100m down the falls into the Zambezi Gorge creates what the local call the roaring thunder. For decades, the falls have )7-#0&,0;#"%7-(7$&%-,;#))#-$&/'(&!-$%& arrived by boat after reports from #>+)(-#-&A,;*0&B*;*"5$%("#&!)%#-#0& to the outside world. The railway arrived in 1904 and Victoria Falls became more accessible for intrepid travellers. After World War II, affluent tourists flew in on planes that landed on the Zambezi River when Victoria Falls was one of the overnight stops on an eight-day flight with Imperial Airways (British Airways) from Johannesburg to London and back. Every conceivable method of viewing and experiencing Victoria Falls and the mighty Zambezi River is now available. Victoria Falls township has become Africa s water and air sports capital with the town centre lined with agents offering rafting, bungee jumping, scenic flights and kayaking as well as safari tours. The best views of the falls from the ground are from Victoria Falls Park and Rainforest Reserve where pockets of rainforest survive amongst the surrounding scrubby forest. There are several fenced off areas where visitors can feel the energy of the water cascading into the turbulent pools below. An aerial view is the best to appreciate the falls with a helicopter flight with Flight of the Angels operated by Zambezi Helicopters being the ultimate experience. Zimbabwe and Zambia are linked by a rail and pedestrian bridge and it s possible to walk the 2km between both. However, one of the most exciting ways to venture to the border is on the nostalgic Victoria Falls Steam Train which does the journey using historic carriages pulled by a steam train. Zimbabwe is a remarkable country where seeing wildlife is an everyday occurrence. While various accommodation options are available, the closest visitors will get to sharing the savannah with wild animals is in tented camp besides a waterhole and African Bush Camp offer exceptional experiences. Tour operator, Asia to Africa can plan a comprehensive itinerary and provide access to the most luxurious camps, the best guides and the most convenient transport to and around Zimbabwe and several other southern African nations. 32

10 TRAVEL INFORMATION GETTING THERE AND ABOUT My flight on Emirates Airlines (www. emirates.com) from Kuala Lumpur to Harare via Dubai was relaxing with the extensive selection of entertainment enabling the hours to pass quickly. Emirates flies from Kuala Lumpur to Dubai and then to Harare via Lusaka in Zambia. It operates state-of-the-art Boeing ER aircraft and offers, across all cabins, excellent service. Travelling around Zimbabwe can be challenging and safari camps such as those operated by African Bush Camps mostly use the services of small Cessna aircraft. They provide an invaluable service flying from one park to another ferrying eager tourists to their next wildlife experience. ACCOMMODATION Stay in Meikles Hotel Harare (www. meikles.com), Victoria Falls Safari Lodge ( Somalisa Camp (Hwange National Park) and Kanga Camp (Mana Pools National Park). The two camps are operated by African Bush Camps ( com) and both offer remarkably lavish accommodation considering their remoteness. CONTACTS Tour operator, A2A Safaris (www. a2asafaris.com) can plan every step of the way and provide access %(&%'#&!"#$%&8,3+$1&#>+#-*#"8#0& guides and the most convenient transport to and around Zimbabwe. Experience Victoria Falls with the Victoria Falls Steam Train Co ( and Zambezi Helicopters (www. zambezihelicopters.com). TRAVEL TIPS The Zimbabwe dollar is dysfunctional,"0&%'#&(.!8*,)&87--#"84&*$&"(/&cd:& and travelling with small notes is useful as tipping is expected in most places tourists will visit. Visas upon arrival are issued in either Harare or Victoria Falls. Fees vary for different nationalities but are mostly Visitors need at least two blank pages in their passport and it needs to be valid for at least six months. 33