CR-914 Kit Assembly Instructions Revised Oct 16, 2001

Transcription

1 Parts Inventory CR-914 Kit Assembly Instructions Revised Oct 16, 2001 Read these instructions before starting to build the boat. Parts list continued on the next page

2 Parts list Continued - Upgrade Kit Parts List: - Electronics Mounting Board (1) - Wood Cross Beams Short & Long (1 each) - Wood Compression Post 2 15/16 (1) - Rudder Linkage Rod (1), Ball Links (2) - Ball Link Sockets (2) & Hex Nuts (2) - Antenna Tube (1) - Velcro (1) - Stainless Self Tapping Screws 5/16 (6) - Spectra Rigging Line (1) - White Dacron Corner Patches (6) - Mylar Sticky Back Triangles (6) - White Sticky Dots (12) - Rubber Drain Plug (1) - Epoxy Pack w/ Thickening Powder (1) - CA Glue (1) - CA Glue tip extension (1) - Allen Wrench (1) 1) Inventory all parts in the kit to assure nothing is missing and you can confidently identify each part. 2) Important Note: Screw identification There are three different packages of screws: a) The small zip-lock bag that contains the basic screws provided by AG to build the kit: 2 Extra large Screws - Round Head 15/16 Long 2 Large Screws - Round Head 1/2 Long 12 Medium Screws - Round Head 3/8 Long 6 Small Screws - Round Head 1/4 Long 12 Flat Screws - Flat Head 3/8 Long 2 Bolts - Round Machine Screws 5/16 Long b) In the large electronics bag are two smaller bags containing the screws used to install the servos: 8 Hold Down Screws Rd. Head screws 9/16 Long c) In the up-grade kit are the screws that fasten the electronics board to the beams and the sail trimming arm to the winch: 6 Stainless Steel Screws: Rd. Hd. Screws 5/16 Lg.

3 ORDER OF ASSEMBLY These instructions define the recommended order of construction for the first time builder. 1. ASSEMBLE THE "DRY DOCK" 2. INSTALL SHAFT PIPES AND COMPRESSION POST 3. PREPARE FOR EPOXY OPERATION 4. EPOXY OPERATION ASSEMBLE BALLAST AND KEEL FIN REINFORCE KEEL INSTALL THE ELECTRONIC MOUNTING BOARD 5. FINISHING THE HULL, KEEL AND RUDDER 6. INSTALL HATCH COVERS 7. INSTALL RADIO COMPONENTS 8. INSTALL DECK PARTS 9. MAST CONSTRUCTION 10. BOOM CONSTRUCTION 11. STANDING RIGGING 12. SAILS 13. RUNNING RIGGING 14. INSTALL THE RUDDER AND KEEL a) Use the two "extra large" screws (longest of the kit screws) for the main pivots of the stand. b) Cut the blue nylon strap in half. Seal the ends of the strap by melting with a hot knife heated using a lighter. Alternatively, use CA glue to seal the ends. If done as shown in the booklet, the end of the strap may ignite. c) Use the mall screws - round head ¼ long to attach the straps so that the hull does not touch the side bars. d) If required when the boat is fully assembled, adjust the straps so that the keel does not touch the ground.

4 Dry fit the Compression Post. Dimple the top of the wood post with a 1/8" drill bit. The dimple will center the post on the rear under deck screw molding for the mast step. The bottom of the post rests on top of the keel trunk. BOW Preparation of Shaft Pipes a) Check to assure the shaft pipes slip easily onto the keel and rudder shafts. Remove burrs from the shafts and inside edges of the pipes if required. b) Shaft Pipes should be a snug fit in the hull. If the holes in the hull are too small, enlarge them using a matchstick wrapped with sandpaper. Invert the hull to work on the keel and rudder holes. c) Before gluing, prepare the outside ends of the pipes by cleaning with a solvent (alcohol works) before and after sanding the pipes. Also clean the holes in the hull. d) CAUTION: Position the bottom end of the keel pipe in the hull so it is flush or slightly inside the edge of the hole. CA glue the keel pipe and the compression post at the same time. CA glue both ends of the keel pipe from inside the hull. Invert the hull to glue the top of the keel tube and compression post. The thin glue will penetrate the wood and also seal the tube to give a good bond. Rudder Pipe Installation a) Remove burrs from the inside lip of the area in the cockpit where the pipe holder (white part #3) is installed. b) Insert the rudder tube up through the hull from the underside until it is flush or slightly protruding from the outside of the hull (the small amount of protruding tube can be easily sanded off during the hull finishing steps). c) Center the top of the rudder tube by eye in the open area of the cockpit floor. CA glue the bottom of the tube in place by running the thin glue down from the inside. Allow the glue to cure. d) Run a bead of CA glue around the seating lip and place the pipe holder (White Part #3) gently into position. e) Place a small drop of CA glue on the aft side of the exposed upper tube at the point where the tube meets the plastic. Capillary action will create a proper seal around the tube.

5 BALLAST AND KEEL FIN TRIAL ASSEMBLY a) Sand the lead ballast and the keel fin to remove casting and die marks before assembly. Trial-assemble the bulb and fin using the two large screws that are ½ long. NOTE: The aft keel screw may not bite-in to the plastic keel fin. The front screw and the epoxy of the next step adequately secure the assembly. Check that the axis of the lead ballast is perpendicular to the shaft in the keel fin. DO NOT MIX THE EPOXY YET. We are trial fitting for now. If you wish you can take a drill the aft screw hole a little deeper to allow more bit into the fin. KEEL TRUNK REINFORCEMENT This is very important. Plan to use a generous fillet of thickened epoxy inside the boat around the front and back of the keel trunk. Carefully prepare the fillet area on the hull by cleaning with a solvent before and after thoroughly sanding the hull surface. (Alcohol is an effective solvent.) The fillet strengthens the trunk-to-hull area to prevent cracks and leaks during normal usage and handling. DO NOT MIX THE EPOXY YET. NOTE: ADD A GREATER AMOUNT OF EPOXY AT THE FRONT AND REAR SPOTS. FILLET

6 ELECTRONIC MOUNTING BOARD The mounting board is initially assembled out outside the hull. Layout of Electronic Mounting Board a) The Crossbeams are cut to length and beveled to fit the hull. The shorter beam goes forward, longer beam aft. Measure and center the board on the beams. Mount the board on the beams using four of the screws that came in the upgrade kit. The aft beam must not interfere with the large servo opening. b) Sail Winch Servo (The larger one.) Install the four black rubber bushings to the servo corners. Push the brass sleeves down through the bushings. Install the servo on the board using the screws provided in the electronics bag. c) Install the Rudder Servo the same way. d) The On/Off Switch is mounted on the board as follows: Remove the two screws located on the face of the switch. Separate the faceplate from the main switch body. Locate the switch body on the underside of the electronics board with the short wire leading aft. Mount the faceplate on top of the board and insert the two screws into the switch body. Tighten up the screws and test operate the switch. The switch should be On when the switch lever is forward. e) Remove the two servos after they have been test fit. Leave the switch mounted. f) Remove one of the screws from each crossbeam for the next step. g) Rotate the beams to insert the board into the hull through the hatch. Re-align the beams and install the screws. Position the board s forward edge 3/8 inch from the brass keel pipe. Measure from the deck down to the top of the platform on each side to get the platform level. h) Clearly mark on the hull the four footprints of the ends of the beams i) Sand and clean the footprint area to assure a good bond. j) Slide the board aft far enough to give easy access to the keel trunk. k) Consider squaring off the front of the hatch opening to give access to the forward beam screws. This allows easier removal of the mounting board if that becomes necessary. Alternatively, drill two holes for a screwdriver within the hatch boundaries defined by the Hatch Rail, Part 6. OPTION NOTE - Another way to allow the easy removal of the radio board is to open the forward crossbeam rail screw holes to form notches. Now after the board and supports have been installed, by removing the aft screws you can remove the radio board. For more information and photos check out

7 Before mixing the thickened epoxy, perform a dry run of the entire operation of this section. The objective is to quickly complete the operation before the epoxy starts to cure. The order of assembly/installation is: MIX THE THICKENED EPOXY ASSEMBLE BALLAST AND KEEL FIN REINFORCE KEEL INSTALL THE ELECTRONIC MOUNTING BOARD a) Thoroughly mix the entire contents of the epoxy package. Add the powder thickener until the consistency is like peanut butter. b) Keel Assembly Use a generous amount of epoxy in the slot in the ballast for the fin and assemble using the screws. NOTE: The aft keel screw may not bite-in to the plastic keel. The front screw and the epoxy will adequately secure the assembly. Check that the axis of the lead ballast is perpendicular to the shaft in the keel fin. Refer to Step 3 graphics c) Remove excess epoxy and fill the screw holes on the bottom of the ballast. d) Apply generous dollops of epoxy to the four marked footprints for the Electronics Board. Do not place the mounting board into position yet, wait until step (f). e) Reinforce Keel Trunk Use most of the remaining epoxy to form a generous fillet at the front and back of the keel trunk in the bottom of the boat. Apply some epoxy at the bottom of the compression post and keel shaft pipe. f) Install the Electronics Board Carefully lift the board and move it forward to place it in position on the dollops of epoxy. Smooth the epoxy to form fillets at the beam-ends. NOTE: ADD A GREATER AMOUNT OF EPOXY AT TH E FRONT AND REAR SPOTS. FIL LET G) Allow the epoxy to cure for four to five hours.

8 5 FINISHING THE HULL, KEEL & RUDDER For the step-by-step guide to painting or polishing the hull unpainted, see the two page HULL FINISHING DETAILS guide at the end of this booklet. a) Install #4 Eyelet, part 9, (at the backstay location) using 3/8 inches long flat head screws and no glue before starting hull finishing. This is because the screw points may create bumps on the bottom of the hull near the transom. Avoid this by slightly shortening the screws after initially starting them in the holes. b) There are sizeable imperfections in the bow sections of the hull. They can be sanded out as instructed. If you plan to paint the hull you can also use any polyester putty like Bondo to fill these imperfection. c) CAUTION: Minimize sanding the hull at the deck edge to avoid excessive thinness at this critical location. d) Most model owners leave the rudder and keel white or paint them white. It is easier to detect weeds or other debris caught on them while sailing. TIP - PAINTING A WATERLINE To put a waterline on your boat I use the following method. You will need a smooth FLAT surface (I use an old mirror), pencil, block of wood about 4 high, a block of wood about 1/2 x1 x5 and a number of rubber bands. Taking the hull and place it upside down on the flat surface. Next take the 1/2 x1 x5 shim block and place it under the aft end of the hull. Take the other block of wood and securely rubber band the pencil to the block. This is going to be our scribe. Adjust the pencil on the block so it touches the hull about half way up the knuckle at the bow. Now with out moving the pencil on the block adjust aft shim block so the pencil touches the hull 3 aft of the rudder post hole. With these two points set the same height above the flat surface, lightly run the pencil scribe down the side of the hull. This line is the bottom of our water line. With both sides of the hull marked move the pencil down on the hull to scribe the top of our waterline. FLAT SMOOTH SURFACE 6 INSTALL HATCH COVERS a) With the boat level sparingly apply CA glue to the bottom of the hatch rail trough. Be very careful not to press down on the upper (B) part of the hatch rail part 5, before the CA glue sets. It will close the slot where the hatch actually slides in. It is easiest to push down on lower flange with a flat blade screwdriver. Do not insert the hatch until the glue is thoroughly cured. b) On the hatch itself the small handle should not be used. An alternative is to tie a string loop through the slit. To cover the slit and hold the string loop in the center, fold a white sticky dot in half, stick half the dot on the top of the slit and fold the other half of the dot underneath to the bottom side of the hatch. Make a small cut in the dot half that gets folded under to allow the string to pass. c) The stern hatch cover is not required and many owners do not use it. Your choice.

9 7 INSTALL RADIO COMPONENTS a) After the epoxy has cured reinstall the sail winch and rudder servo. b) Use the supplied Velcro to: 1) mount the Rx (receiver) inside the boat on the bottom of the cockpit floor as far aft as wires will reach and, 2) mount the battery case on the bottom of the hull under the cockpit. c) Connect the Rx - Plug the rudder servo connector into channel 1, the sail servo into channel 2 and the connector from the switch into Battery. Mount the Rx on the Velcro. INSTALLING THE RX ANTENNA The receiver antenna wire can be installed inside the hull if desired or be lead outside the hull for the best possible signal. EXTERNAL ANTENNA a) Find the white plastic antenna tube with a black collar. b) Drill a hole a little smaller than the diameter of the black collar. c) Locate the hole as shown above. d) Remove the black collar and insert about 1/3 of it into the hole. e) Use CA to glue the collar to the hull. f) Feed a messenger string into the hull through the collar and tie it to the end of the antenna wire. g) Gently pull the antenna out through the collar. h) Thread the antenna through the white tube and tie a knot in the end. Insert the tube into the black collar. INTERNAL ANTENNA An internal antenna arrangement must ensure the antenna is mounted against the underside of the deck, not in the bottom of the boat. Ideally, the antenna will be installed in a straight line, not coiled or bunched in one location. SAIL WINCH a) The sail winch may have a round plate installed. Replace it with the white four-horn piece. It has correctly spaced screw holes. Install the Sail Trimmer arm, part 33, on the four-horn piece. See the drawing. Use two 5/16 long round head stainless steel screws. Trim off the three unused horns. See the sketch. b) Save one of these horns for the Jumper stay adjuster. Sail Servo Arm Assembly c) Install the pulley assembly on the bottom of the Sail Trimmer arm. Caution: Use part #34 instead of part #13. Part #34 has two posts that fit into holes on the end of the arm. PULLEY ASSEMBLY CA Glue 11 Bolt 34

10 8 INSTALL DECK a) DO NOT use glue to attach the five screw attached eyelets. Use only the screws. b) There are two cleats mounted one on either side of the mast step. Drill a 1/8 diameter hole through the side of each cleat between the screws. c) Install the pulley on the port aft deck using parts 11, 12, and 13. Part 13 has one post. d) Drill the hole in the steering pedestal, Part 7. Install in the cockpit using CA. e) NOTE - The pre-formed holes in the cockpit floor for the cleat are not correctly spaced. For an easier installation drill one new screw hole with a 1/32 drill bit. DECK HARDWARE DETAIL 5 EPOXY OPERATION STEERING PEDISTAL DETAIL TIP OPTION - You can lower the profile of the toe rails by cutting off the feet flush with the rail bottom and then gluing them to the deck flush.

11 9 MAST CONSTRUCTION a) Use CA glue, to adhere the fittings to the mast. b) IMPORTANT: To ensure a good bond, sand the mast under each fitting. Clean with alcohol before and after sanding. c) Position mast fittings as shown below within +/- ¼ of the specified location. d) Carefully align them as shown below. e) Apply a few drops of CA glue to the top and bottom of each fitting at the crack between the mast and fitting. f) Avoid letting glue enter the small holes in the spreaders, gooseneck and vang plate fittings. After the fittings are installed, assemble the two halves. The steel mast joint, should fit snugly. If it doesn't spread open the mast joint by driving a tool such as nail set or large Phillips screwdriver down each end with a hammer. CA glue the joint connector into one half of the mast. Then line up spreaders and slip the other half of the mast in place. There is no need to glue the second half in place if it is snug. When viewed from the top the holes in the jumper spreader, jumper stay ring and upper spreader should be in a straight line with each other while the mast top should be at a 90 degree angle to this assembly as shown.

12 IMPORTANT - DECISION TIME Regarding Standing and Running Rigging It is now time to decide if you want to be able to easily remove the entire rig and sails from the hull. Many owners find this unnecessary. Leaving the rig in permanently somewhat simplifies the rigging process and makes the finished product cleaner. Note that by loosening the rigging the mast can be unstepped and placed on deck even though still attached to the boat. Removable Rig If you decide to make the rig removable, look for the notation For Removable Rig in the following instructions. NOTE: There are photos at the Chesapeake Performance Models Website that will be of assistance when rigging the boat. Click on the CR 914 photo and then click on Rigging Details Photo. 10 BOOM CONSTRUCTION a) Each boom uses two black Boom Rings, Part #29. The Boom Ring at the aft end secures the clew of the jib and mainsail. The other boom ring is used to adjust sheet trim. Do not glue any of the boom rings. b) Use string for the function of the sheet boom rings. Use a square knot to form a loop in the center of a 15 string by tying it around something like a 1/4 diameter drill bit. Next with the loop on the bottom of the boom take the tails and loop them around the boom twice and tie a square not on the top of the boom. CA glue the knot and boom wraps in place. Trim off the tails. c) The highly loaded boom vang ring is also a string loop as in (b) above. Locate the loop about 4¾ inches aft of the gooseneck pivot pin. Sand the boom in this area to further improve the bond to the boom. CA glue it in place. d) Tie a 22 long string to the main boom just forward of the boom vang string loop in (c). Use a clove hitch. CA glue it in place. e) Tie a 30 long jib tack string directly to the jib boom using a clove hitch. f) Install three end caps part 30( two for the jib boom and one for the main boom), and the gooseneck, parts 25 and 26, using CA glue. For Removable Rig a) Tie the small end of a snap to each of the boom rings used to adjust sheets. Orient the large snap end opening downward. Tie and CA a string to the large end of the snap. Tie the string around the boom to hold the snap close to the boom.

13 Heads ta y Boom Rin gs Part 29 Sheet Adjuster String Loop Boom Rin gs Part 29 Jib Outh a ul Jib Boom Tack S tr ing Jib Sh eet Jib Boom CLOVE HITCH With two turns String Loops Boom Rin gs Part 29 Sheet Adjuster Boom Rin gs Part 29 Main Outh aul Main Sheet Boom Van g Main Boom KNOT B Double Half Hitch Boom Vang

14 11 STANDING RIGGING NOTE - Use Knot B the double half hitch to tie the ends of all lines to the bowsies. Suggestion: To make it easier to thread rigging string through small holes use CA on the string end and cut the end off at an angle with a razor or exacto knife. Alternatively, melt the end of the string with a lighter and form a fine point. Install Shrouds - Use a continuous string for each of the three shrouds (lowers, middle and uppers). Use a Clove Hitch (see above) around the mast above each spreader and the jumper strut, part 22. Pass the ends down through the holes in the spreaders each side of the mast. Secure the clove hitch to the mast with a small bead of CA glue. Cut the ends of the shrouds off 8 below the bottom of the mast. Cut the backstay length off at 12 below the bottom of the mast. Jumper Stay Thread the mid-point of a suitable length string thru the forward hole in the Mast Top, part 20. As in detail #1 above thread both ends thru a two holed bowsie fashioned from the one of the sailwinch servo horn tips saved in step 7. Route the string through the jumper tips and then through the holes in the Jumper Stay Ring, part 21. After tensioning the jumper stays secure both strings below the ring using Clove Hitches, secure with CA glue. a) Using the top two holes, thread a bowsie on each shroud and the backstay. b) Install the mast in the mast step. Install the Main boom and complete the gooseneck. Caution: Use care to avoid glueing the pivoting parts of the gooseneck. For Removable Rig c) Install the big ends of seven snaps into the Eyeplates and #4 Eyelet. d) Thread the ends of the shrouds and backstay through the small end of a snap and tie to the bottom hole in the bowsie. See Detail #6 above. For Non-removable Rig e) Omit the snaps and route the shrouds directly through the Eyeplates (Chainplates) and #4 Deck Eyelet and tie to the bottom hole in the bowsie. See Detail #6 above. TUNING TIP: f) Measure to the center of the top of the mast from under the edge of the transom. g) Adjust the forestay and backstay to make that dimension 53 3/4 inches. This is a starting point for tuning the boat.

15 12 SAILS Cut a 145cm (60 ) string for the headstay. Wrap around the forward end of the jib boom twice and tie using a clove hitch. Slide forward and apply a drop of CA to the glue. Cut the enclosed tape into 10 pieces measuring 2cm. Cut the jib tube into 10 pieces measuring 1cm each. a) A corner patch reinforcement pack is included in the Upgrade Kit. Apply the thick Mylar triangles to each of the six sail corners and trim off the excess. b) Cut in half the sticky back Dacron patches shaped like half ellipses to create quarter ellipses. c) Apply one of the quarter ellipse patches on each side of the six sail corners. Use care not to exceed the 2½-inch maximum permitted radius rule. Trim the patch on one side of the sail smaller than on the other side. This gradually decreases the stiffness from the corner of the sail outward so the sail sets properly. d) Fold circular sticky dots in half and apply at each of the mainsail luff holes. e) Open all holes in both sails using a heated pin or small nail. f) Apply the four mainsail battens equally spaced within ¼ inch along the leach. Battens must be perpendicular to the leach. Use sticky dots for reinforcement at the inboard end of each batten. g) Before installing the sail is a good time to apply numbers and sail emblems. If the boat will be registered with the national CR 914 Class, do not use the sail number decals in the kit. When the boat is registered, you are issued a legal size printed number and instructions. JIB h) Locate and install the luff tubes as shown above. i) Tie the jib halyard to the head of the jib using Knot B. Route it through the hole in the Jumper, part 22; through the bottom two holes of a bowsie; through the forward hole in the Mast Top, Part 20, and then down to the top hole of the bowsie using Knot B. It is useful to position the halyard bowsie lower than the headstay bowsie to easily tell them apart. j) Tie the headstay to the extreme forward end of the jib boom using a clove hitch. k) Route the short tail of the hitch through the tack hole of the jib and back to a clove hitch on the boom. Adjust the second clove hitch so the sail lies smoothly, not bunched up toward the headstay. See l) Tie the clew of the jib to the black boom ring. m) Route the jib tack string aft through #1 Eyelet, and fasten it on cleat #2 using Knot C. n) Pass the headstay through all the jib luff tubes; through the hole in the Jumper, part 22; through two holes of a bowsie; through the forward hole in the Mast Top, Part 20, and then down to the bowsie using Knot B.

16 MAINSAIL a) Tie the head of the sail to the lower aft-most hole in the Mast Top, Part 20. Head of the sail should be about ¼ inch below the Mast Top. b) Tie the mainsail downhaul string to the tack hole in the sail using knot B. Run the line down through the smaller holes in the gooseneck and vang plate, then outward to port through the hole in the cleat. Thread a bowsie onto the line, lead the line forward through Eyelet #1 and then back to the bowsie. c) Tie the clew to the aft-most black boom ring. d) Secure the luff to the mast using a simple loop of string through the hole in luff and around the mast. Tie the loops with a square knot so there is a space of ~1/8 between the mast and the luff. For Removable Rig Run the mainsail downhaul string down through the holes in the gooseneck and vang plate. Thru the port cleat and run thru a bowsie connected to deck eyelet #1.

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18 13 RUNNING RIGGING Install the Boom Vang a) Use a square knot to form a loop in the center of a 10 string by tying it around something like a 1/4 diameter drill bit. Wrap the tails around the main boom and CA in place. Take a 20 length of line and wrap around the main boom forward of the above loop and tie with knot B. Pass the tail down through the larger hole in the boom vang plate around the mast and back thru the vang plate hole. Lead the line up through two holes in a bowsie and through the string loop on the boom. Tie the end to the bowsie. Install the Main Sheet Fairlead a) The main sheet fairlead is the spiral wound ~¼ inch metal ring. It is attached to the boat by the three-legged string bridle shown below. b) To avoid rapid sheet wear and fouling, tie the forward leg Sheet A to the ring so that the string and CA glue covers the sharp wire ends. c) Attach port and starboard fairlead adjusters as pictured at right. Install Sail Sheets d) Mark the center point of a 65-inch long string that will become the jib and main sheets. Tie a second 35-inch string at the center mark using Knot D, below. The second string is the Control Sheet. e) Lead the Control Sheet aft through the steering wheel, around the pulley and forward into the hole as shown below. f) Remove the sail trimmer arm from the winch using the center screw on the output shaft. g) Run the control sheet into the hull through the hole located at the aft pulley assembly. h) Tilt the boat bow-down to retrieve the string through the hatch opening. Use tweezers. i) Run the string through the outboard opening of the winch arm pulley, around the pulley and aft through the inboard opening. j) With your cheek close to the fore deck, thread the string through the small hole in the cockpit wall to the #3 Cleat in the cockpit. Slightly loosen the cleat screws and run the Control Sheet under the cleat between the screws. k) Secure the line to the cleat and retighten the screws.

19 Preliminary Sheet Adjustment a) Review the radio system instruction manual. b) Turn on the Tx (transmitter) and the boat. The left control stick on the Tx is for sail control. The smaller trim lever is located on the left side of the sail control stick. c) Confirm that the sail servo turns clockwise when the control stick is moved downwards. If the servo does not turn clockwise, reverse the direction using the servo reverse switch on the transmitter for channel #2 d) Move the control stick and the trim lever all the way down. Reinstall the trimmer arm on the servo. Position arm as far forward as possible at about eleven o clock. e) Move the control stick and trim lever full up and down to check movement of the arm. f) With the stick and trim fully down, apply tension on the jib and main sheets. Position Knot D at the aft pulley by adjusting the control sheet at #3 cleat. g) Both main and jib sheets run through the port steering wheel. h) Route the main sheet up through the ¼ metal spiral ring fairlead, aft through the string loop and back to the boom ring used for sheet adjustment. Apply firm tension on the sheet and tie it using Knot B. i) Turn off the boat and the Tx. j) Route the jib sheet under the ¼ main sheet fairlead ring, forward between the mast and under the main sail downhaul. Continue forward through #2 Eyelet, up through the jib boom string loop and forward to the boom ring. Tie the sheet so the aft end of the boom is about 1 ½ inch from the mast. For Removable Rig, a) Tie small loops in the both sheet ends and hook them into the snaps. Final Sheet Adjustment a) Turn on the Tx and the boat. With the sail control stick and trim fully down, tighten the main sheet by sliding the boom ring aft. b) Readjust the jib sheet using the boom ring so that the end of the boom is 1½ inches from the mast. c) Apply side pressure to the main boom and position the trim lever until the boom end is over the deck edge. That is a good setting for sailing to windward. d) Moving the control stick and trim fully up should let the boom out to touch the shrouds. Turn off the boat and the Tx.

20 14 INSTALL RUDDER AND KEEL a) Install the rudder and rudder horn. Position the rudder as close to the hull as possible and still let it turn. Tighten the setscrew using the Allen wrench supplied. b) Remove the rudder horn and install a ball joint ball in the inner hole on the starboard side. c) File a small, narrow flat on the steel rudder shaft where it is marked by the rudder horn screw. This will retain the rudder even if the screw is not tight. d) Remove the unused port side rudder horn. e) Reinstall the rudder using Vaseline on the rudderpost. f) Install a nylon ball socket on one end of the rudder linkage rod (a 1/16 inch diameter steel rod threaded on both ends). Insert it through the hole in the steering pedestal and the hole in the aft face of the cockpit. Install a nylon ball socket on the forward end. g) Remove the arm from the rudder servo. Install the ball in a hole ~5/8 inches from the center of the servo shaft. h) Turn on the Tx and the boat. Channel 1, the right hand control stick, controls the rudder. Center the trim lever below the control stick i) Reinstall the arm 90 degrees to the axis of the boat as shown in the illustration for the Electronic Mounting Board. j) Adjust the ball sockets so that the rudder is centered when the rudder trim is centered. k) Check the installation by moving the rudder control stick full left and right. l) Use the servo reverse switch to set your preference of tiller or wheel steering. m) Turn off the boat and the transmitter. Install the keel using the brass keel nut after liberally coating the shaft with Vaseline or a waterproof grease. GO SAILING!

21 15 BEFORE SAILING

22 16 SAILING TERMINOLOGY AND OPERATIONS GO SAILING!