PELIG PELIG. Scale model's construction step by step. Izgradnja makete korak po korak

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2 PELIG Scale model's construction step by step PELIG Izgradnja makete korak po korak

3 Assembling model s structure & preparing the model for planking the hull Sastavljanje konstrukcije makete i priprema makete za oblaganje trupa

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13 Planking the hull Oblaganje trupa

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23 Preparing the deck building & planking the deck Priprema za izgradnju palube i oblaganje palube

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35 Rails Razme

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49 Finishing the deck equipment & the hull elements of the model Završavanje opreme palube i elemenata trupa makete

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61 The masts Jarboli

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79 The boat Čamac ( kaić )

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85 The rigging Snast

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95 PELIG (cargo sailing ship of the adriatic coast) -building instructions

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97 Pelig is a coastal cargo sailing ship with two masts, whose hull is similar to the trabaccalo, with round sides and round bottom with a keel. She is long from 11 up to 27, up to 6 meters large and up 2,5 meters high. Her capacity is from 20 up to 100 tons. In a later stage of development she has a tapered bow and a narrower stern as in the lugger. She differs from the trabaccalo, as all sailers distinguish themselves, for the sails. Specifically, on the mast of the stern is developped a gaff sail with a gaff topsail, not a boomed standing lugsail as in the trabaccalo. In the final stage of development, on some pelig, on the top of masts is developped one crossed sail. During the realization this model, it should be noted that numbers are placed in order of creation. The preparation has several phases. The list of materials that you can find with building instructions, it is extremely important because only using it, you can know exactly how to cut strips on the required dimensions, and that you later do not run out of material. Besides, in the list of materials, are also marked the nominal positions for the making of which are used particular strips. It is best to immediately organize the length of the strips and cut them to avoid that later you mistakenly shorten a strip that you could need in full length. Don t be afraid to cut them because the all indicated dimensions in the list of materials, are slightly longer than you actually need and you will adjust them later during modeling. To create elements that you see on the finished model, we used panels of walnut wood. On them, these elements are cut by laser. They should be careful separate from the board by a very sharp knife to avoid crushing elements because natural wood tends to break up on the rings. You need to cut tiny pieces that link up the elements and the board, to avoid the elements dropping from the board. On the elements will remain blackened edges, because of the laser beam that cuts, actually burning the board at a given line. However, the important thing is that you can remove the blackened edges, if you like, in several ways. The easiest is with sandpaper or an electric engraving tool, or they should be simply scraped off with a scalpel. Sometimes it is easier to put together a full element and then clean the blackened edges. We point this out to make your models nicer and your work easier. -97-

98 Let s start with the realization of the model: Assembling model s structure First separate the parts of the element 1 out of the 6mm walnut board PE16 and carefully clean their burnt area. We recommend an electric engraving tool. For this purpose is ideal the circular steel brush. At the beginning take the element 1a. As shown in P1 hollow on it 1mm deep groove in which you will set carving carved on veneer of 1 mm. Fit and glue carving on both sides of the element 1a. Element 1 is made by the keel, the fore foot, the stem, the apron of the stem, the stern knee, the stern post and the inner post. Carefully glue all them to each other as shown in the plan, using a flat surface, such as glass. (keel; chiglia; Kiel, der). (fore foot; pič di ruota di prora; Stevenanlauf, der). (stem, stempost; ruota di prora; Vorsteven, der). (apron of the stem; controruota di prora; Binnenvorsteven, der). (stern knee; bracciolodella ruota di poppa; Hinterstevenknie, das). (stern post; ruota di poppa; Achtersteven, der). (inner post; controdritto di poppa; Binnensteven, der). Create a stand in which you will hold the model during its realization. Use a flat board as a base, and two flat strips that you should strengthen on it, as a rail to the keel. It is also good to make even the stem carrier and stern post carrier, also of straight strips and strengthen them to the lower, horizontal strips. The whole stand for the realization of the models should be stable and the model on it must stand tightly and set so that the keel and the posts are vertical to the base. This is the only way to work properly. Remove elements from Plywood 4mm PE14 and PE24. Very occasionally, the laser does not cut off elements of the plywood completely. If this happens just saw with jig saw the element to the end and remove it from the motherboard. On the element 1, the keel, glue the false keel 1.3, made with the strip 6x1, 5mm. Glue the mast step 1.1. Take one bulkhead, for example the bulkhead 9 and, with a hard flat surface as a support, using the force, slide it into the grooves, where should come the bulkheads 5 to 9. In this way you will prepare the grooves for assembling the appropriate bulkheads. Now, using a file, adjust the grooves on the bulkheads 2, 3, 4, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15, so that the bulkheads, without the use of a higher force, can come into place in the corresponding grooves of the element 1. Prepare the round bars ( the dowels) 3.1, 3.2, 5.1, 5.2, 13.1 and Set the bulkheads 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 in the compatible grooves of the element 1. Now, rotating it slowly between your fingers, insert the round bar 5.1 through the round openings in the bulkheads. Then the round bar 5.2. Then place the bulkheads 3 and 4 in their place. Gently, rotating them between your fingers, push the round bars 3.1 and 3.2 in the corresponding round holes. Place the bulkhead 2. Set bulkheads 12 and 13 in their place. Gently, rotating them between your fingers, push the round bars 13.1 and 13.2 in the corresponding round holes. Set bulkheads 14 and 15. Now, it comes an important part of the work. The all forthcoming work will depend on it. Adjust all the bulkheads to stand in the proper position and, when you are sure that they are, start applying glue where the elements touch one other. Apply the glue with a brush, spreading it in detail on all places where one element touches another. When the glue dries it is good to repeat the process. Glue the journal mast 1.2 in its place. -98-

99 Preparing the model for planking the hull First, by sanding, tilt the outer side walls of the bulkheads at the bow and stern to allow the proper fit of the planking strips as shown in the plan. It is good to use illustration P2 for this purpose. Tilt the bulkheads on the bow to leave untouched their rear surfaces, those facing the stern. The bulkheads 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 need the most to be tilted. Tilt also the outer side walls of elements 19.1 and 19.2 and glue them into place. Tilt the bulkheads on the stern to leave untouched their rear surfaces, those facing the bow. The bulkheads 14 and 15 need the most to be tilted. Tilt also the outer side walls of elements 16.1, 16.2, 17.1, 17.2, 18.1 and 18.2 and glue them into place. We recommend filling with pieces of soft wood the space between the bulkheads, below the deck line and in particular the parts on the bow and stern. It is necessary to make a bow and stern block of soft pieces of wood, which comes ahead the bulkhead 2 and between bulkheads 2 and 3 on the bow and behind the bulkhead 14 on the stern. They are on each side of the model. It is very important to make and glue properly into place the knight-heads 20 and 21 at the bow. Make them with the strip 3x3mm. They are firmly glued to the top of the stem-post. You can see it in illustrations P3 and P5. They are important, because on them, from the outside, comes the glued outside planking. They are important because they form the shape of the outside planking. Later you are going to cut them on the bottom, to correctly install the deck rail that comes under them. To get the proper shape of the hull you use the illustration P2. The line 22 is the deck line, line 23 is the topgallant rail line, that is, the wale line, and the line 24 is the highest wooden plating line, the highest line of the hull. The line 25 is the transom line. Pay special attention to the line 25, because it forms the shape of the transom. Be sure to leave untouched that the rear side edges of the element 15. Now we come back again to the shaping of the whole hull. Sand it all to get its proper shape. (knight-heads, hawse-timbers; apostoli; Klusspanten, Ohrholzer, die). (stern, stempost; ruota di prora/prua; Vorsteven, der). (stern post; ruota di poppa; Achtersteven, der). (deck; coperta; Deck, das). (topgallant rail, rail cap; capodibanda; Dollbord, der). (wale, rubbing piece; cinta, cordone; Schergang, der). (forecastle deck; coperta di prora; Vorderdeck, das). (planking; fasciame ; Auenhaut, die). Planking the hull It follows the planking of the hull with the planking strips. The outside planking 26 is made by the mounted planking strips. The dimension of the strips to be used for this purpose is 5x1, 5mm. This model can be planked in several ways, but we recommend you doing it in the following one. First you need to plank the transom 27. You do this so you first glue the lowest planking strip whose middle part is bent about the stern part 1x. The lowest planking strip on the bottom form to a wedge to properly lay in its groove on the bottom of the stern part 1x. It is shown in illustrations P5. You need to bend around the stern part 1x all these planking strips of the transom and their ends very poorly glue to the outer edges of the element 15. Glue them to each other. Finally, shape the left and right edges of the transom as the element 15 lets. Later on, the planking strips of the hull sides will need to be firmly glued to the planking strips of the transom so that everything stays in its place when, in the end of the work, you remove the element 15 and the part 1x (the part of the element 1 above the deck). It is shown in the illustration P6. (transom; specchio di poppa; Spiegel, der). -99-

100 Plank the models hull now. This way of planking is important, because the planking strips are set up like in the real boat and its main characteristic is that the lines of the planking strips do not overlap with the rubbing strake lines. Each planking strip of the model s hull has to go from the bow to the stern in one piece. Get started. First you need to draw, very precisely, on the model s construction, the lines where will come the guiding planking strips. The first guideline is the planking strip 26a, which comes directly under the rubbing strake 36. Its upper edge is exactly as high as the element 29, the decks rail that will later be glued on the deck. This planking strip is equally wide throughout its length, which is 3mm. The exact position of its upper edge is plan in the illustration P5, while illustrations P9 and P10 show the cross-section. (curb, bumper, fender, rubbing strake). The second guideline is the highest planking strip 26c. Yuo can see it in the cross-sections illustrations P9 and P10. It is good that it is equally wide along the entire length, and it is 3mm or less than 3mm. When you will glue the wale 35 glue on it, it has not to be seen. Soak the planking strips in water, so they will not break during their bending. Glue the first planking strip, which is the one that comes directly under the rubbing strake 36, the planking strip 26a. After setting the rubbing strake 36, which will follow later, it will not be seen. Now you need to set the planking strips downward. First we need to calculate their widths, which are not equal in their entire length. In the widest bulkhead, the bulkhead 7, measure the distance between the first planking strip 26a and the keel 1 and divide the resulting value by the width of the strip which will coat the hull (5mm). Use the illustration P9. It is 112,25 mm / 5 mm = 22,45, which means you need to use other 23 strips. Now you have to find their width to the bulkhead 7, which is 112,25mm / 23 = 4,88mm, which means that the width of the planking strips on the widest bulkhead, on the bulkhead 7, should be 4,88 mm. Do the same for each bulkhead and transfer the resulting dimensions to all the 23 strips. Cut them. Be sure you cut them lengthwise and always only the upper edge. Set into place the planking strips you just cut, starting from the upper to the lower, down to the keel. If you see that it doesn t fit, do everything from the start and find where you have mistaken, or simply adjust the width of the last few planking strips to fit it all into the structure of the hull. Now place the planking strips from the first one upward. The ouside planking over the deck on the bow is slightly higher than the one on the bulkhead 7. There should be included obtusely trimmed wedge planking strip 26b which can be seen in the cross-section P10. With it will fill the void that will be created during the planking. According to the plan, draw a precise form of the outside planking profile and cut all the unnecessary parts of strips. Preparing the deck building Remove the upper parts of all the bulkheads 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14 from the deck and upward. These parts of the bulkheads are used to form parts of the ship model sides above the deck, so called the freeboard. (dead timber; freeboard). Carefully remove the element 15 and part 1x (the part of the element 1 above the deck). That block is used to form the transom. Remove the rests of glue from the inside of the outside planking and sand as it needs. Once you remove the upper parts of the bulkheads, which were parts of the bulwark planking, before sanding the outside of the hull (note that the bulwark planking would be too thin if you sand the hull now), it is better to paste reinforcements made of 0,5x5mm strips, on the inside of the bulwark planking, after you flatten it by sanding,. Use the strips of the same material of the hull. These strips are supplied in this set of assembly. Therefore, it is better to paste the -100-

101 strips you should arrange properly one above the other horizontally, from the stern to the tip of the bow, at the inboard of the bulwark planking. In this way you can freely sand the outside planking from the outside, which now won t be too thinned and eventually crack, but it will remain compact so that the inboard of the bulwark planking is going to look nice. (bulwark planking; fasciame di impavesata, fasciame di murata; Schanzkleidbeplankung, die). Sand the top edges of all the bulkheads to obtain a proper arc of the deck. You can do this placing properly the planking strips, that will later plank the deck, by the entire sanded surface of the upper edges of the bulkheads. When you are sure that the planking strips for the planking of the deck, will stay properly on the bulkheads, you can start the next step. Before gluing the deck it is necessary to create the deck surface. Between the tops of the bulkheads insert softwood or plywood pieces precisely cut, sand them to get the deck surface exactly as the deck line shown in the draft. The main deck Now glue, from the stern to the tip of the bow, 1,5x5mm strips on the so prepared the deck surface. Start from the middle and go to the left and right ends of the construction. So, plank the main deck 28 completely following the draw shown in the plan, illustration P3. Before gluing to the deck surface, on each strip cut a thin cut. The cuts are shown in the ground plan of the deck. It will look like it is, instead of the one long strip, several small bars lined up in a row. This procedure will give a very realistic look to the deck later. The elements to create the decks rail and the central part of the deck are on the walnut board of 2mm. Extract them and remove the burned area from the inner walls of the elements. It is not necessary, but the model will look nicer. The rail of the main deck 29 is composed of eight separate parts. Use the illustration P3. Their outer walls should be sanded to leave untouhed the upper edges, but the walls must be polished toward the bottom surface. It is shown in illustrations P9 and P10. Glue the parts of the deck rail into place. Now, set up the central part of the deck 30. It may be broken up in the places where there are the below deck hatch and the opening for the mast. It has not to be formed of one part. When you glue it into place, by grinding inward the main deck rail 29 and the central part of the deck 30 askew slightly. Use the illustrations P9 and P10. Now adjust visually fitting of the deck 28, as in the plan, drilling holes Ø 0.3 mm on the deck (you can use a needle) and fill them with a mixture of glue for wood and brown acrylic paint. You can also use colored putty for wood. When the mixture is dry, sand and polish the deck. In this way you get the ideal shape of the deck as if it were nailed with wooden pegs. With strips 3x3mm make the upper, visible parts of the frames 31, the top timbers. (Whorl ribs; top timber, bulwark stanchions). Drill the holes for the masts and when you are sure the masts stand properly, adjust the circular grooves for the clamps 32 and 33. You must cut clamps 32 and 33 into the central part of the deck 30, in this way it is going to lie on the deck 28. It is shown in the illustration of P4 and P5. Cut the freeing ports that serve to drain water from the deck. They are shown in illustrations P1, P4 and P5 and the cross-section P9. Coat the deck with a mixture of 40% linseed oil and 60% thinner and immediately wipe with a cloth. When dry, sand and polish again as needed. After twenty-four hours from the first coating, coat with a mixture of linseed oil and thinner once again and immediately wipe with a cloth

102 Topgallant rail, hand rail, wale, deck girder and the rubbing strake Sand and polish the whole hull from outside. From the walnut board of 2mm extract the parts of the topgallant rail 34. Adjust them with sandpaper and glue into place. With veneer strips 3x0, 5mm make the wale 35 which in full, from the outside of the model s hull, from the stern to the bow, covers the planking strip that comes close to the topgallant rail 34. Use illustrations P1, P4, P5, P7, P8, P9 and P10. Trim the outer edge of the topgallant rail 34. Create the rubbing strakes 36 with the strips 3x1, 5mm and glue them into place, so that their upper edges follow the upper edges of the first planking strips 26a. Please note that the rubbing strakes 36 writhes at the stern. To prevent this, on this step, glue two strips 3x1, 5mm to each other. Bring them them in the required shape, by sanding. Create the forecastle topgallant rail 37 with the strip of 4x4mm. Assemble the stern hand rail 38 from the cut elements of the walnut board of 2 mm. Create the stays with the strip 3x3mm. Create the bitts 39 with the strips 6x6 mm. Set the eyes 40 into place and drill the outside planking so that the anchor chain can pass. The holes must be drilled at an angle of 45. Glue the collars 41 on the bow deck to the windlass, drill the deck and through these holes insert later the anchor chain later. Glue the deck girder 42. Make it with the strip 3x1,5mm. (wale, rubbing piece, sheer-strake; cinta, cordone, cerchio; Schergang, der). (deck girder, deck side girder, deck shelf; dormiente; Balkenweger,der) (bulwark; murata; Schanzkleid, das). (stays; colonnine.) (eyes; occhi; Bugaugen, die). Finishing the deck equipment and the hull elements of the model Complete the model s hull. Make the hatchway 43 and the hatch cover, gluing the elements from the walnut board of 2mm. Assemble the hatchways fram and frame it on the deck using strips 2x2mm. Bend and glue the hatch cover. Stretch the fabric PEB over it. Set the chains made of copper or brass strip 2mm. You must coat all the metal parts on the model with brass oxide, to turn black. In the grooves of the chains push strips 5x1, 5mm. Make the companionway 44 with the rests of the strips 5x1, 5mm. Make the forecastle shuttle 45 with the cut elements from the walnut board of 2mm and with the veneer strips 0.5mm thick. On the deck it is framed by strips 2x2mm. (forecastle shuttle, companion way with sliding top). Make the windlass 46 with the cut elements from the walnut board of 2mm and from the rests of the round bars, which you will sand as required. The windlass 46 is required has to be painted in matt black. Make the pawl bitt 47 with the strip 6x6mm and firm it in the central part of the bow deck. The catheads 48 are attached on it sideways. Create them from the strip of 6x6mm. At their top, each one has two holes, slots, with a pulley. See the illustrations P4, P5, P7 and P8. At each cathead 48 there is one bitt 49, on which later you will tie the rope to tighten the anchor. Make the bowsprit 50 with the square strip 6x6mm. It is firmly connected with the pawl bitt 47 and everything is square till the place of the protruding the forecastle topgallant rail. From there, you will gradually model it into circular shape. It is completely circular at the top and has a groove in which comes a metal cylinder which you have to make with the copper plate of 2+2mm wide, on which it will solder small eye-lets, which you should make of a wire that is not in the kit, or of smaller eye-lets from the kit

103 Assemble the bilge pump 51 and set it into place. Create the bitts 52 that come to the top timbers and the bitt 52a, that is hooked in the central part of the deck by a hook and that comes attached to the rope that goes up and down the upper mast. Make them with the strip 3x3mm. Set the eyebolts with rings 53. Assemble the rudder 54 from the elements of the walnut board 6mm. First glue together the fragments 6 mm thick, sand the rudder in the required shape. Make the rudder irons with the metal strip of 2mm. The fragments to make the tiller are on the walnut boards of 4mm and of 2mm. Glue them together and sand it. Make the shaft of the rudder irons with the wire of 1mm. Complete all the remaining elements of the decks, set them into place and glue them. Form the bow gratings, but glue it after painting the model that it is not on the way. Boat BK making, its painting, varnishing and setting on its stand Bf Pelig (pielago) used to have a boat towed behind, but traditionally during long journeys, the boat was placed on the ship. She was, strongly tighten to the outboard of lanyard with a simple rope, leaning on the shrouds. Sometimes she had her place on the deck, tied on her stand. The realization of the boat s model is diveded into three steps. First make the mold of the model s hull and prepare it for the planking. The second step is the setting and sanding of the transom and planking of the mold in two layers of verneer, then the removing of the mold. The third one consists of setting the outer keel and adjusting the model s hull, from outside and inside. To make the boat s model use the illustration BK. First remove the mold of the inside of the hull from the balsa panel 20mm. Make the boat s mold B1 by sanding the balsa block, to get the proper shape of the inner part of the boat s hull, as shown in the draft Ba. See the illustration BK. Make sure to sand the stempost so that its front surfaces of the sides form a sharp angle. Watching from the front, the bow must be pointed. When you set the planking slats on the sides, each on its side of the model, they must touch each other at the top of the bow. Make the same for the part in the keel. On the back of the mold B1 of the inside of the boat s hull glue the transom B2 and shape its edges. The mold B1 is planked by planking slats made of the 0,5x5mm slats. Their size should be 0,5x2,5mm. Glue the first planking strip B3 on the mold. Its upper edge must be leaning on the upper edge of the mold. In this way you get the proper shape of the hull s upper profile. Now plank the structure downwards. The planking slats from different sides of the mold, must touch each other at the top of the bow, at the bottom of the structure and in the stern under the transom. Don t force the gluing of the planking slats to the mold, because later you should to remove it from the boat model s shell. After planking the structure with the first layer of planking slats, plank the hull once again, but this time more precisely. Make sure that the planking strips go from stern to bow. Smaller boats of croatian coastal area are planked so that the first is set the rubbing piece, then the planking slat very close to the keel. After that the planking slat is set next to the rubbing pieces, then the planking slat to the first up to the keel and so until their peaks reach each other in the stern and bow. Then in the middle of the hull remains an oval elongated opening. It should be closed by a planking strip, cut into its shape. After the second planking the outside planking B4 should be 1 mm thick. Carve the balsa block mold B1 and so remove it completely from the shell of the boat s model. Shape the upper edge of the transom B2. Sand and polish the shell of the boat from both inside and outside. Adjust the shape according to the outer keel B5 which is on the 2mm walnut panel. The keel will be leaning on a bearing in the hull which has to be sanded flat, to not have holes -103-

104 between the outer keel B5 and the boat hull. Glue the outer keel B5 on the boat model s hull. Now it follows the inside adjusting. Adjust and glue the stern knee B6 and the fore foot B7, from the 2mm walnut panel. Cut slats of verneer 0,5mm thick to make the frames B8. (Upper parts, bent timbers, bent heads and lower parts of the bent timber, floor timber). Cut slats in the required lenght and glue the lower and upper parts of the frames. From the same verneer cut and glue into place the bilge keelson B9. Make and glue the floorings B10. From the same verneer cut and glue the wiring B11 in its place. On it carve slots for the thwarts and bow deck B12. Make the thwarts and the bow deck B12 of the rests of the slat. They should be 1mm thick. Glue them. Make and glue the side stringer B13. Remove two identical parts of the topgallant rail B14 from the 1mm panel. The two parts to be glue one on each side of the hull, to get the topgallant rail B14 about 1mm thick. Now, sand carefully the outer and inner edges of the topgalant rail B14 to get the required shape. Make and glue rubbingstrakes B15 of walnut slats. Make the eyebolts with rings B16 of brass wire and set them into place. Make the oars Bd of the rests of the slats. Make and glue the thole-pins for oars. Paint the model of the boat as the pelig. Varnish the boat with matt colorless acrylic varnish. Later, place the boat on the stand on the deck as shown in the draft. Tie her to the stand. As you wish, place the boat on the traditional way to this model of the ship: place her on the outboard of lanyard and tie firmly her with a simple rope to the shrouds. (wale, rubbingpiece, sheer strake; cinta, cordone, cerchio; schergang, der). (side frame, jead, benthead, benttimber; ordinata, costola; Spant, das). (bottonframe, rib, floortimber; madiere, ordinata, costola, membro; Bodenwrange,die). (bilgekeelson; paramezzaletto). (flooring, floorboard; paglio, pagliuolo; Bodenbretter, die; Weger, der). (wiring; sottobanco, correntedimurata; Banke, die). (thwart; banco, bancodivoga; Ducht, die). (thwarts side, seats; sedile, banco; Langsbank, die). (topgallantrail, rail cap; capodibanda; Dollbord, der). (deck, coperta). (rubbingstrake, righino). (eyeboltwith ring, golfare). Colouring the model You can leave the model can in natural wood color, which we recommend, or paint it as desired, but be sure to do it before you set up the rope. Use acrylic paint and an acrylic colorless matt varnish. Under the waterline the model should be painted black, red or green. Above the waterline, up to the rubbing strakes 36, wood color or matte black. The rubbing strakes 36 and the topgallant rail 34 with the stern hand rail 38 matte white. Between the rubbing strake 36 and the topgallant rail 34 natural wood color or matte black. The inner side of the freeboard, top timbers 31, main deck rail 29 and the central part of the deck 30, natural wood color or matte white. Deck 28 should be natural wood color. The carving 1a on the bow paint matte white or gold. The windlass 46 and the mast fife rail 55a end 55b should be matt black, because they are iron cast elements. When you paint the models of the ships, they shouldn t shine. Use acrylic paint and an acrylic colorless matt varnish. Here s the procedure: first polish the model with sandpaper. Then spread a mixture of 40% linseed oil and 60% thinner and immediately wipe with a cloth. When dry, paint it as desired and let everything dry completely. Re-sand and polish as needed and paint everything once again. Those parts you intend to leave in wood color, you need to coat once again twenty-four hours after the first coating, with a mixture of linseed oil and thinner, then immediately wipe with a cloth. When it dries, spray the model with matt colorless varnish. Do it twice with a gap of twenty minutes. So you will get a perfect colored model. It rarely happens that, after painting with colorless matte varnish, on wood could appear tiny fibers that protrude and look ugly. If this happens, just re-polish the element and re-spray matte varnish. Fiber will disappear

105 Making the masts, the sails and connecting the ropes Create the masts with all the elements. Coat those elements with linseed oil, varnish and then connect all the ropes with the pulley on them. Most of the pulleys have a hook or shackle on. Make them with the wire of 0.5 mm or with the supplied fittings, the eye-lets of which you will use the flat end. Place the masts and connect the tensioning ropes, shrouds, with the dead eyes. The dead eyes, on the bottom, are connected with the hull by the elements made of a metal strip of 2mm. Set the shroud fife rail 56a and 56b. It should be pointed that before placing any rope or sail and other wooden elements on the model, first it should be painted as desired and varnished. The procedure has been described before in the text. Connect the ratlines. Set the fife rail. When you set up all the ropes on the tops of the lower parts of the masts, assemble the mast extensions and finish the work with ropes. What s important to note here is that all fixed ropes should be painted in black. Make this with glue for fabric. Fixed ropes are those that don t run when maneuvering the ship. They are, for example, shroud, the rope which bind the pulley to the masts and similar. Bright ropes are those that run when maneuvering the ship, that is, ropes that pass through the pulley. Make the sail, cutting it at the outer embroidered edges, hem the first edge and insert the wire (the wire is not included in the kit), hem the second edge with the inserted rope of 1mm. Sew from inside where the wire is parallel to the edge. The suture should be approximately 5 mm (on both sides). By the transparent glue, on the outer edges of the sails, thinly glue the ropes of 0,75mm, 1mm and 1,25mm, leaving the rings for the spars on the upper corners. Sew this ropes to the sail with a rope of 0.25 mm, rolling up three times to about every 13mm, thruogh the rope in the edge of the mast. Now set the sail on the spar and tie it and on the mast tie the spar. Shape the sail as you like, connect all the other ropes. Set the staysail. The scale model s stand The scale model s stand consists of two side walls. In their slots on the front and back sides, you need to set a longitudinal elongated plate with an inscription. One side wall comes at the same level of the bulkhead 6 and the second side wall at the level of the bulkhead 10. Assemble it, adjust the grooves for the keel, glue, paint and varnish as desired. Your model is now finished

106 Read more about our offer at We sincerely thank you for choosing our model. Best Regards Marisstella Ltd. Split Croatia

107 The list of materials

108

109 PELIG The box nova 65cm x 21,5cm Laser cut panels: 1) PE11-10cmx20cm (Finnish birch plywoodr 1x200x600 mm 88204) 2) PE12-10cmx33,3cm (Walnut boards 2x100x1000mm 80203) 3) PE22-10cmx33,3cm (Walnut boards 2x100x1000mm 80203) 4) PE32-10cmx33,3cm (Walnut boards 2x100x1000mm 80203) 5) PE13-10cmx7cm (Walnut boards 3x100x1000mm 80204) 6) PE14-10cmx5cm (Walnut boards 4x100x1000mm 80205) 7) PE16-10cmx50cm (Walnut boards 6x100x1000mm 80207) 8) PE14-20cmx40cm Plywood 4mm 9) PE24-20cmx60cm Plywood 4mm 10) PE120-5cmx15cm Balsa block 20mm Strips and dowels: construction: walnut dowels 14mm x9,5cm+2x28cm+2x12cm false keel: oak or walnut strips 1,5x7mm x42cm the first planking strip, the highest planking strip, deck girder, rubbing strakes: walnut strips 1,5x3mm x60cm + 3x40cm outside planking, transom, companionway-hatch cover: walnut strips 1,5x5mm x60cm + 9x12cm + 52x6cm inboard bulwark planking: walnut strips 0,5x5mm 6x60cm + 6x40cm deck: light strips 1,5x5mm 16x53cm + 16x47cm wale, boat: walnut strips 0,5x3mm x60cm + 50x10cm top timbers, stays: walnut strips 3x3mm x3cm +13x1cm ++ companionway and hatchway frame: walnut strips 2x2mm x6cm + 4x10cm + 2x13cm + 4x3cm masts, bitts, pawl bitt, catheads, bowsprit, forecastle topgallant rail and windlass: walnut dowels 10mm x50cm walnut dowels 5mm x30cm + 1x25cm walnut dowels 6mm x30cm walnut dowels 8mm x40cm + (ili8x8cm)2x15cm walnut strips 6x6mm x5cm + 2x6cm +1x30cm +2x3cm walnut strips 4x4mm x11cm -109-

110 Fittings: clear rope 1,25mm kom1 clear rope 1mm kom1 clear rope 0,75mm kom1 clear rope 0,50mm kom1 clear rope 0,25mm kom1 eye-let 1,8x8mm eye-let ring 4mm or chain 2mm or cm + 2x13cm + 2x20cm anchors 50mm ammiragliato 4020/50 2 bilge pump brass strip 0,5x2mm cm wire 1mm cm dead-eye 3,5mm dead-eye 5mm dead-eye strop 5mm single block 3mm double box 5mm (4mm-6mm) single block 5mm eye block 7mm 6 double box 7mm single block 7mm traveller 2,5mm belaying pin 12mm (or 32704) 36 gratings 1,5x36x36mm The plan: Instructions Sails: - 3 sheets - set PEJ1-5 ; PEB -110-

111 PELIG (teretni jedrenjak jadranskog priobalja) -uputa za izradu

112

113 Pelig je obalni teretni jedrenjak sa dva jarbola čiji trup sliči trabakulu, oblih bokova i oblog dna s kobilicom. Dužina mu iznosi od 11 do 27, širina do 6, a visina do 2,5 metra. Nosivost mu je od 20 do 100 tona. U kasnijoj fazi razvoja ima zašiljen pramac i odsječenu krmu kao kod logera. Od trabakula se razlikuje, kako jedrenjacima i dolikuje, po jedrilju. Naime, na krmenom jarbolu razvija se sošno jedro s gornjačom, a ne oglavno jedro kao kod trabakula. U završnoj fazi razvoja, kod pojedinih peliga, na vrhovima jarbola razvije se po jedno križno jedro. Prilikom izrade ove makete potrebno je primijetiti da su brojčane oznake postavljene prema redoslijedu izrade. Sama izrada podijeljena je u nekoliko faza. Popis materijala, koji je priložen uz uputu za izradu, iznimno je važan jer jedino uz pomoću njega možete točno odrediti kako pravilno izrezati letvice na predviđene dimenzije, a da Vam kasnije ne ponestane materijala. Uz to su, na popisu materijala, označene i nazivne pozicije za čiju izradu pojedine letvice služe. Najbolje je da odmah organizirate dužine i izrežete letvice kako se ne bi dogodilo da kasnije greškom skratite neku letvicu koja će biti potrebna u potpunoj dužini. Ne trebate se plašiti da ih nećete precizno odrezati jer su sve naznačene dimenzije na popisu materijala nešto duže od onih koje u stvarnosti trebaju, a ugoditi će te ih kasnije prilikom rada. Za izradu elemenata koji se vide na gotovoj maketi koristili smo ploče od orahovog drva. Na njima su ti elementi izrezani laserom. Njih sa ploče treba pažljivo odvojiti iznimno oštrim skalpelom da ne bi došlo do pucanja elementa, jer prirodno je drvo sklono cijepanju po godovima. Trebate prerezati sićušne neizrezane dijelove koji spajaju elemente i ploču, a služe da elementi ne bi sa ploče ispali. Na elementima će ostati tamni rubovi koji su takvi zbog rada laserske zrake koja reže na taj način da u stvari izgori ploču po zadanoj liniji. No, važno je da te pocrnjele rubove možete, ako hoćete, očistiti na više načina. Najjednostavniji način je brusnim papirom ili električnim alatom za graviranje, ili ih pak možete jednostavno ostrugati skalpelom. Ponekad je jednostavnije u potpunosti sastaviti neki element pa potom očistiti pocrnjele rubove. Ovo naglašavamo da Vaša maketa u konačnici izgleda ljepše i da Vam olakšamo rad

114 Krenimo sa izradom makete: Sastavljanje konstrukcije makete Prvo izdvojite dijelove elementa 1 sa ploče oraha 6mm PE16 i pažljivo očistite njihove tamne rubove. Preporučamo električni alat za graviranje, za ovu namjenu je idealna čelična okrugla četkica. Na početku uzmite element 1a. Prema prikazu P1 izdubite na njemu udubinu duboku 1mm u koju će te namjestiti rezbariju izrezbarenu na furniru 1mm. Namjestite i zalijepite rezbariju na obje strane elementa 1a. Element 1 čine kobilica (keel; chiglia; Kiel, der), pramčano uzvojno koljeno (fore foot; pič di ruota di prora; Stevenanlauf, der), pramčana statva (stem, stempost; ruota di prora; Vorsteven, der), protustatva pramčane statve (apron of the stem; controruota di prora; Binnenvorsteven, der), krmeno uzvojno koljeno (stern knee; bracciolodella ruota di poppa; Hinterstevenknie, das), krmena statva (stern post; ruota di poppa; Achtersteven, der), protustatva krmene statve (inner post; controdritto di poppa; Binnensteven, der). Sve ih pažljivo zalijepite jedne na druge kako prikazuje nacrt koristeći pri tom idealno ravnu podlogu, na primjer staklo. Izradite radni stalak u kojemu će te maketu držati dok je budete izrađivali. Ravnu dasku upotrijebite kao podlogu, a dvije ravne letve, koje učvrstite za nju, kao vodilicu za kobilicu. Dobro je izraditi još i nosač za astu krme i pramca, također od ravnih letvi koje pričvrstite za donje, vodoravne letve. Kompletan stalak za izradu makete mora biti stabilan, te maketa u njemu mora stajati čvrsto i postavljena tako da kobilica sa astama stoji okomito na podlogu. Jedino tako moći će te pravilno raditi. Odvojite elemente sa ploča šperploče 4mm PE14 i PE24. Rijetko se dogodi da laser ne odreže elemente na šperploči u cijelosti. Ako se to dogodi jednostavno ispilite rezbarskim lukom i pilom element do kraja i odvojite ga od matične ploče. Na element 1, na kobilicu, zalijepite štitnu kobilicu 1.3 (šjoleta, false keel, falsa chiglia), izrađenu od letvice 6x1,5mm (ili 7x1,5mm). Zalijepite temeljnicu jarbola 1.1. (Temeljnica jarbola, mast step, scassa di albero). Uzmite jednu pregradu, npr. pregradu 9, te je, koristeći tvrdu ravnu podlogu kao oslonac, uz upotrebu sile, nataknite u žljebove gdje trebaju doći pregrade od 5 do 9. Tako će te pripremiti te žljebove za montažu odgovarajućih pregrada. Sada, koristeći turpiju, ugodite žljebove na pregradama 2, 3, 4, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 i 15, tako da te pregrade bez upotrebe veće sile mogu doći na svoje mjesto, u odgovarajuće žljebove na elementu 1. (Pregrada; bulkhead; paratia; Schottung, die). Pripremite okrugle letve 3.1, 3.2, 5.1, 5.2, 13.1 i Postavite pregrade 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 i 11 u odgovarajuće žljebove na elementu 1. Sada, lagano je rotirajući među prstima, ugurajte letvu 5.1 kroz okrugle otvore na pregradama. Potom i letvu 5.2. Potom postavite pregrade 3 i 4 na svoje mjesto. Lagano ih rotirajući među prstima ugurajte okrugle letve 3.1 i 3.2 u odgovarajuće okrugle otvore. Postavite pregradu 2. Postavite pregrade 12 i 13 na svoje mjesto. Lagano ih rotirajući među prstima ugurajte okrugle letve 13.1 i 13.2 u odgovarajuće okrugle otvore. Postavite pregrade 14 i 15. Sada je važan dio posla u pitanju o kojem će ovisiti cjelokupan predstojeći rad. Namjestite sve pregrade da stoje pravilno u pravcu i kada se više puta uvjerite da stoje idealno počnite nanositi ljepilo na dodirne točke elemenata. Ljepilo nanosite kistom, premazujući detaljno sva mjesta na kojima jedan element dodiruje drugi. Kada se ljepilo osuši dobro je ponoviti postupak. Zalijepite temeljnicu jarbola 1.2 na svoje mjesto

115 Priprema makete za oblaganje trupa Prvo brušenjem nakosite stjenke pregrada na pramcu i krmi da omogućite pravilno nalijeganje letvica za oblaganje kako prikazuje nacrt. Dobro je da se služite prikazom P2 za tu svrhu. Pregrade na pramcu nakosite tako da njihove stražnje plohe, one koje su okrenute prema krmi, ostavite netaknute. Najviše je potrebno nakositi pregrade 2, 3, 4, 5 i 6. Nakosite i vanjske bočne stjenke elemenata 19.1 i 19.2, te ih zalijepite na mjesto. Pregrade na krmi nakosite tako da njihove prednje plohe, one koje su okrenute prema pramcu, ostavite netaknute. Najviše je potrebno nakositi pregrade 14 i 15. Nakosite i vanjske bočne stjenke elemenata 16.1, 16.2, 17.1, 17.2, 18.1 i 18.2, te ih zalijepite na mjesto. Preporučamo popunjavanje sa komadima mekšeg drva prostora među pregradama, ispod linije palube, a naročito dijelove na pramcu i krmi. Obavezno je načiniti pramčani i krmeni blok od mekšeg komada drva, koji dolazi ispred pregrade 2, kao i između pregrada 2 i 3 na pramcu, te iza pregrade 14 na krmi. Oni dolaze sa svake strane makete. Vrlo je važno pravilno izraditi i zalijepiti na svoje mjesto pramčane apostole 20 i 21. Izradite ih od letvice 3x3mm. Oni su čvrsto zalijepljeni na vrhu pramčane statve. Vidljivi su na prikazima P3 i P5. Oni su važni jer na njih, s vanjske strane dolazi zalijepljena vanjska brodska oplata. Oni formiraju oblik oplate. Njih će kasnije trebati zarezati na dnu da se može pravilno umetnuti razma palube koja dolazi ispod njih. Da bi dobili pravilnu oblinu trupa služite se prikazom P2. Linija 22 je linija palube, linija 23 je linija razme, to jest linija cente, a linija 24 je najšira linija trupa. Linija 25 je linija zrcala krme, na tu liniju posebno obratite pozornost jer formira luk zrcala krme. Primijetite da se stražnji bočni bridovi elementa 15 moraju ostaviti netaknuti. Još jednom se vratimo na cjelovito formiranje trupa. Sve izbrusite da dobijete njegovu pravilnu oblinu. (Apostoli; knight-heads, hawse-timbers; apostoli; Klusspanten, Ohrholzer, die). (Pramčana statva; stern, stempost; ruota di prora/prua; Vorsteven, der). (Krmena statva; stern post; ruota di poppa; Achtersteven, der). (Paluba; deck; coperta; Deck, das). (Razma; topgallant rail, rail cap; capodibanda; Dollbord, der). (Centa; wale, rubbing piece; cinta, cordone; Schergang, der). (Pramčani kaštel; forecastle deck; coperta di prora; Vorderdeck, das). (Oplata; planking; fasciame ; Auenhaut, die). Oblaganje trupa Slijedi oblaganje trupa letvicama za oblaganje. Te letvice možemo nazivati madirima, kako se zovu i u brodogradnji. Postavljeni madiri čine oplatu 26 (outside planking; fasciame esterno; Auenhaut, die). Dimenzija letvica koje treba koristiti za ovu svrhu je 5x1,5mm. Ovu maketu možete obložiti na nekoliko načina, a mi preporučamo da to učinite na način kojega ćemo opisati. Prvo je potrebno obložiti zrcalo krme 27. To ćete učiniti tako što ćete prvo zalijepiti najdonji madir čija sredina se lomi oko krmenoga dijela 1x. Madir na dnu oblikujte klinasto tako da pravilno nalegne u svoj žlijeb na dnu krmenoga dijela 1x. Pogledajte P5. Sve ove madire zrcala krme treba u luku presaviti oko krmenoga dijela 1x, a krajeve vrlo oskudno zalijepiti za krajeve elementa 15. Zalijepite ih jedne za druge. Na koncu oblikujte lijevi i desni rub zrcala krme kako dozvoljava element 15. Kasnije, madire bokova makete trebat će solidno zalijepiti za madire zrcala krme tako da sve ostane na svom mjestu kada na kraju posla odstranite element 15 i dio 1x (dio elementa 1 iznad palube). Kako će to u konačnici izgledati prikazuje P6. (Zrcalo krme; transom; specchio di poppa; Spiegel, der). Sada obložite trup makete. Bit ovog načina oblaganja je da madiri budu postavljeni kao -115-

116 na pravom brodu, a osnovna karakteristika je da se linije madira ne preklapaju sa linijama bokoštitnice, žuljnice. Svaki madir na trupu makete treba ići od pramca do krme iz jednog komada. Započnite. Prvo trebate na kosturu makete vrlo precizno ucrtati mjesta na kojima dolaze madiri koji će Vam biti vodilje. Prva vodilja je madir 26a koji dolazi točno ispod žuljnice 36. Njegov gornji rub prati točno visinu elementa 29, razme palube koja će kasnije biti zalijepljena na palubi. Taj je madir jednako širok po čitavoj svojoj dužini, a to je 3mm. Točan položaj njegovog gornjeg ruba ucrtan je u nacrtu na prikazu P5, a u presjeku je vidljiv na prikazima P9 i P10. (Žuljnica, rubnjak, branik, bokoštitnica; rubbing strake; righino; Reling, die). Druga vodilja je naj viši madir 26c. Vidljiv je na presjecima P9 i P10. Dobro je da on bude jednako širok po cijeloj dužini, a to je 3mm ili nešto manje od 3mm. Kada se na njega kasnije zalijepi centa 35 on se ne smije vidjeti. Madire je, da ne bi pucali prilikom krivljenja, potrebno namočiti u vodu. Zalijepite prvi madir, a to je onaj koji dolazi postavljen točno ispod žuljnice 36, madir 26a. Nakon postavljanja žuljnice 36, što će uslijediti kasnije, on se neće vidjeti. Sada treba postaviti madire naniže. Prvo treba izračunati njihove širine, koje nisu jednake po njihovim cijelim dužinama. Na najširoj pregradi, pregradi broj 7, izmjerite razmak između prvog madira 26a i kobilice 1, te dobivenu vrijednost podijelite sa širinom letvice s kojom će te oblagati trup, a to je 5mm. Pogledajte prikaz P9. To je 112,25 mm / 5mm = 22,45, što znači da je potrebno utrošiti još 23 letvice. Sada još treba odrediti njihovu širinu na rebru 7, a to je 112,25 mm / 23 = 4,88 mm, što znači da bi širine tih madira na najširem rebru, rebru 7, trebale biti 4,88 mm. Tako učinite za svaku pregradu i dobivene dimenzije prenesite na sve 23 letvice, madira. Izrežite ih. Vodite računa da ih režete po dužini i to uvijek samo gornji rub. Tako izrezane madire postavite na svoje mjesto, počevši od gornjeg prema donjemu, sve do kobilice. Ako vidite da se ne uklapa, učinite postupak ponovno i ustanovite gdje ste pogriješili, ili jednostavno ugodite širine posljednjih par madira da se sve uklopi u konstrukciju trupa. Madire sada postavljajte od početnog prema gore. Na pramcu je oplata nad palubom nešto viša nego na srednjem rebru 7. Tu je potrebno ubaciti tupo odrezani klinasti madir 26b koji se vidi na presjeku P10. S njim će se popuniti šupljina koja će se otvoriti prilikom oblaganja. Ravnajući se prema nacrtu, precizno ucrtajte formu profila oplate, te izrežite sve suvišne vrhova letvica ako ih ima, tako da dobijete profil makete identičan onome na nacrtu. Priprema za izgradnju palube Odstranite gornje dijelove svih pregrada 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13 i 14 od palube pa naviše. Ti su dijelovi imali zadatak formirati dijelove bokova broda iznad palube, tzv. mrtvu bandu (nadvođe, mrtva građa; freeboard; bordo libero, bordo franco; Freibord, der). Pažljivo odstranite element 15 i dio 1x (dio elementa 1 koji se nalazi iznad palube). Taj blok imao je zadatak formirati zrcalo krme. Uklonite ostatke ljepila sa unutrašnje strane oplate i izbrusite koliko je potrebno. Kada ste odstranili gornje dijelove pregrada, one koji su imali zadaću formiranja mrtve bande, prije brušenja vanjskog dijela oplate (to je važno naglasiti jer bi se mrtva banda previše stanjila kada bi se oplata brusila u ovoj fazi), poželjno je sa unutarnje strane mrtve bande, nakon što se poravna brušenjem, zalijepiti pojačanje načinjeno od letvica 0,5x5mm. Upotrijebite letvice od istog materijala kao što je oplata. Te letvice su priložene u ovome setu za sastavljanje. Dakle, poželjno je, od krme do vrha pramca, sa unutarnje strane mrtve bande zalijepiti letvice koje treba pravilno vodoravno složiti jednu poviše druge. Tako se postiže da oplatu možete slobodno -116-

117 brusiti sa vanjske strane, koja se tada neće previše stanjiti i eventualno ispucati, već će ostati kompaktna, a unutrašnjost će mrtve bande lijepo izgledati. (oplata ograde palube, mrtva banda; bulwark planking; fasciame di impavesata, fasciame di murata; Schanzkleidbeplankung, die). Izbrusite gornje rubove svih pregrada tako da dobijete pravilan luk palube. To učinite tako da letvice koje će te kasnije slagati na palubi pravilno naliježu na cijele površine brušenih gornjih rubova tih pregrada. Kada ste se uvjerili da će letvice za oblaganje palube pravilno nalijegati na palubi, možete pristupiti slijedećoj fazi izrade ove makete. Prije lijepljenja palube potrebno je izraditi podlogu palube. Između vrhova pregrada umetnite meko drvo ili precizno izrezane komade šperploče, izbrusite ih da dobijete podlogu palube točno kako je prikazana linija palube na nacrtu. Glavna paluba Sada zalijepite, od krme do vrha pramca, letvice 1,5x5mm na tako pripremljenu podlogu. Počnite od sredine i idite prema lijevom i desnom kraju konstrukcije. Dakle, obložite glavnu palubu 28 slijedeći šaru koju prikazuje nacrt, prikaz P3. Prije lijepljenja na podlogu palube, na svaku letvicu urežite tanki rez. Rezovi su prikazani na tlocrtu palube. Tako će izgledati kao da je umjesto te jedne duge letvice poredano više manjih letvi u nizu. Taj postupak palubi će kasnije dati vrlo realističan izgled. (Paluba; deck,coperta; Deck, das). Na ploči oraha 2 mm nalaze se elementi za izradu razme palube i središnjice palube. Izdvojite ih i uklonite izgorene površine sa unutarnjih stjenki elemenata. To nije obavezno, ali će maketa ljepše izgledati. Razma palube 29 sastavlja se iz osam odvojenih dijelova. Služite se prikazom P3. Njihove vanjske stjenke potrebno je izbrusiti tako da gornji bridovi ostanu netaknuti, ali da stjenke budu konusno izbrušene prema donjim plohama. To se vidi iz prikaza P9 i P10. Zalijepite dijelove razme palube na svoje mjesto. Sada postavite i središnjicu palube 30. Ona može biti isprekidana na mjestima gdje je grotlo skladišta i otvor za jarbol, to jest ne mora biti sastavljena iz jednoga dijela. Kada ste i nju zalijepili na svoje mjesto, brušenjem razmu palube 29 i središnjicu palube 30 lagano nakosite prema unutra. Služite se prikazima P9 i P10. (Središnjica palube, kursija, corsia del ponte; Plankengang, der). Sada sredite vizualno okov palube 28 i to tako da prema nacrtu izbušite rupice fi 0,3mm na palubi i razmi palube (možete upotrijebiti iglu) te ih popunite smjesom ljepila za drvo (drvofiksa) i smeđe akrilne boje. Možete koristiti i obojeni kit za drvo. Kad se smjesa osuši sve izbrusite i ispolirajte. Tako će te dobiti idealan izgled palube kao da je okovana drvenim klinovima. Od letvica 3x3mm izradite gornje, vidljive dijelove rebara 31, izdanke rebara. (Izdanak rebra; top timber, bulwark stanchions; battagliola di impavesata, scalmotto, stilo; Schanzkleidstutze, die). Probušite otvore za jarbole, te kad se uvjerite da će jarboli stajati pravilno, ugodite kružne žljebove za gule jarbola 32 i 33. Gule treba urezati u središnjicu palube 30, tako da leže na palubi 28. (jarbolnica, gula; clamp; gola dell albero; Rack, der). Prikazuju ih prikazi P4 i P5. Urežite odvodne otvore koji služe za otjecanje vode sa palube. Prikazuju ih prikazi P1, P4 i P5, te presjek P9. (Odvodni otvori; freeing ports; portelli di scarico, ombrinali; Wasserpforte, Speigatten, die). Premažite palubu mješavinom 40% lanenog ulja i 60% razrjeđivača. Ponovno izbrusite i ispolirate po potrebi. Nakon dvadeset i četiri sata od prvog premazivanja, premažite palubu -117-

118 ponovno mješavinom lanenog ulja i razrjeđivača i odmah obrišite krpom. Razma, đardinjera, centa, kontracenta i bokoštitnica-žuljnica Izbrusite i ispolirajte čitav trup s vanjske strane. Sa orahove ploče 2mm izdvojite dijelove razme 34. Dotjerajte ih brusnim papirom i zalijepite na mjesto. Od letvice furnira 3x0,5mm izradite centu 35 koja u cijelosti, s vanjske strane trupa maketa, od krme do pramca, prekriva madir koji dolazi tik do razme 34. Služite se prikazima P1, P4, P5, P7, P8, P9 i P10. Zaoblite vanjski rub razme 34. Bokoštitnice-žuljnice 36 izradite od letvica 3x1,5mm i zalijepite ih na svoje mjesto, tako da im gornji rub prati gornji rub prvog madira 26a. Obratite pozornost na to da se na krmi makete žuljnica 36 izvija. Da bi ste to spriječili, na tom potezu zalijepite jednu na drugu, dvije letvice 3x1,5mm, pa ih brušenjem dovedite u traženi oblik. Razmu 37 pramca izradite od letvice 4x4mm. Đardinjeru 38, ogradicu na krmi, sastavite od rezanih elemenata sa orahove ploče 2mm, a stupiće izradite od letvice 3x3mm. Bitve 39 (Bitva; bitt; bitta; Beting, die) izradite od letvica 6x6mm. Oči 40 postavite na svoje mjesto i probušite oplatu tako da lanac sidra može proći. Rupe moraju biti izbušene pod kutom od 45. Rozete 41 zalijepite na palubi pramca do vitla, probušite palubu i kroz te rupe kasnije ugurajte lanac sidra. Zalijepite kontracentu 42, načinjenu od letvice 3x1,5mm. (Centa, dorazmena platnica; wale, rubbing piece, sheer-strake; cinta, cordone, cerchio; Schergang, der). (Kontracenta, podsponjak; deck girder, deck side girder, deck shelf; dormiente; Balkenweger,der) (Ograda; bulwark; murata; Schanzkleid, das). (Stupići; stays; colonnine.) (Oči; eyes; occhi; Bugaugen, die). Završavanje opreme palube i elemenata trupa makete Završite trup makete u cijelosti. Grotlo skladišta 43 -bukaporta (Grotlo; hatchway; boccaporto; Luke, die) i poklopce grotla (Poklopac grotla; hatch cover; coperchio di boccaporta, boccaporto; Lukendeckel, der) izradite tako što će te zalijepiti elemente sa ploče oraha 2mm. Sastavite okvir grotla te ga pri palubi uokvirite u letvice 2x2mm. Iskrivite i zalijepite poklopac grotla. Preko poklopca razvucite tkaninu PEB. Postavite okov od bakrene ili mjedene trake 2mm. Sve metalne dijelove na maketi trebate premazati mesing oksidom, da pocrne. U žljebove okova utisnite letvice 5x1,5mm. Krmeni silaz 44 izradite od ostataka letvica 5x1,5mm. (Krmeni silaz; companionway, tambucio di poppa; Heckeingang, der). (Krmeni poklopac; hatch cover; boccaporto di poppa; Heckdeckel, der). Pramčani ulaz-tambuć 45 izradite od elemenata rezanih na orahovoj ploči 2mm, te od letvice furnira debelog 0.5mm. Na palubi je uokviren letvicom 2x2mm. (Pramčani ulaz; forecastle shuttle, companion way with sliding top; tambuggio di prora/prua; Niedergang, der Niedergangskappe die). Vitlo 46 izradite od rezanih elemenata sa orahove ploče 2mm, te od ostataka okruglih letvi koje izbrusite na tražene promjere. Vitlo se obavezno treba obojiti u mat crno. (Vitlo, sidreno; windlass; argano a salpare, salpancore; Spill, das). Bitun 47 izradite od letvice 6x6mm i učvrstite ga za središnjicu palube na pramcu (Bitun, palbit; pawl bitt; colonna, bittone; Pallbrting, die). Na njega su bočno pričvršćene sohe sidra 48 (Soha sidra; cathead; grua del capone; Kranbalken, Ankerkran, der). Izradite ih od letvice -118-

119 6x6mm. Na vrhu imaju po dvije rupe, utora, sa koloturima. Pogledajte prikaz P4, P5, P7 i P8. Na svakoj sohi sidra 48 nalazi se po jedna bitva 49 na koje se kasnije priveže konop za priteg sidra. Kosnik-baštun 50 izradite od kvadratne letvice 6x6mm. On je čvrsto spojen sa bitunom 47 i kvadratnog je oblika sve do mjesta izlaska iz razmi. Odatle se postupno modelira u kružni oblik. Na vrhu je u potpunosti kružnog oblika i ima žlijeb u koji sjedne metalni cilindrični vrh kojega izradite od bakrenog lima 2+2mm širokog na kojega zalemite malene očete koje treba izraditi od žice koja nije priložena u kitu, ili od manjih očeta priloženih u kitu. (Kosnik; bowsprit; bompresso; Bugspriet, der). (Očeta; brass eye; occhiello; Schraubosen). (Koloturnik, bocel; bozzello; block; Blocke). Sastavite pumpu 51 i postavite je na svoje mjesto. (Kaljužna crpka, pumpa; bilge pump; pompa di sentina; Kimmpumpe, Lenzpumpe, die). Od letvica 3x3mm izradite bitve 52 koje dolaze na lažna rebra, te bitvu 52a koja se kukom kopča za središnjicu palube, a na koju dolazi privezan konop kojim se podiže i spušta gornja katarka jedra. Postavite anele 53. (Anel; eyebolt with ring; golfare; Augbolzen mit Kausch). Kormilo 54 sastavite od elemenata sa orahove ploče 6mm. Prvo zalijepite međusobno fragmente od 6mm debljine i izbrusite kormilo u traženi oblik. Okov kormila izradite od limene trake 2mm. Fragmenti za izradu argole nalaze se na orahovoj ploči 4mm i 2mm. Zalijepite ih međusobno i izbrusite. Osovine kormila izradite od žice 1mm. (Argola, rudo, ručica kormila; tiller; barra del timone; Holzpinne, die). (Kormilo; rudder; timone; Ruder, das). (Okovi kormila; rudder irons; ferramenta del timone; Fingerlinge; Ruderhaken, die). Završite sve preostale elemente po palubama, namjestite ih na mjesto i zalijepite. Formirajte pramčanu rešetku, ali je zalijepite nakon bojenja makete da Vam ne smeta. Izrada barke BK, njeno bojenje, lakiranje i postavljanje na stalak Bf Pelig je imao jednu barku koju je uobičavao vuči za sobom, ali je za vrijeme dužeg putovanja barka, tradicionalno, nedvojbeno, imala svoje mjesto na brodu. Bila je, jednostavnim konopcem, čvrsto privezana s vanjske strane pritega šupljača, naslonjena na pripone. Ponekad je imala svoje mjesto na palubi, na svom stalku za kojega je bila svezana. Izrada maketa barke podijeljena je u tri faze. Prva faza je izrada kalupa trupa makete i njegovo pripremanje za oblaganje. Druga faza je namještanje i brušenje zrcala krme i oblaganje kalupa u dva sloja furnirom te odstranjivanje kalupa. Treća faza je postavljanje vanjske kobilice i uređivanje trupa makete iz unutra i iz vani. Za izradu makete čamaca služite se prikazom BK. Prvo odvojite kalup unutrašnjosti trupa barke sa ploče balze 20mm. Brušenjem oblikujte kalup B1 točno kako prikazuje nacrt Ba. Vidite prikaz BK. Pripazite da dobijete pravilnu oblinu unutrašnjosti trupa. Vodite računa da astu pramca treba izbrusiti tako da njene prednje bočne površine međusobno zatvaraju oštar kut. Gledano od sprijeda, pramac mora biti šiljast. Kada se na bokove postave madiri (platice), svaki na svoju stranu konstrukcije, oni se na vrhu pramca moraju dodirivati. Isto je sa dijelom na kobilici. Na stražnji dio kalupa B1 prostora unutrašnjosti barke zalijepite zrcalo krme B2 i oblikujte mu rubove. Oblaganje kalupa B1 vrši se madirima(platicama) načinjenim od letvice 0,5x5mm. Njihova dimenzija treba biti 0,5x2,5mm. Na kalup zalijepite prvi madir B3, dorazmenu platnicu. Njegov gornji rub mora pratiti gornji rub kalupa. Tako se postigne pravilna forma gornjeg profila trupa. Sada obložite konstrukciju prema dolje. Madiri sa različitih bokova kalupa se trebaju dodirivati na vrhu pramca, s donje strane konstrukcije, te na krmi ispod zrcala krme. Obavezno vodite računa da ne forsirate lijepljenje madira za kalup jer će te kalup kasnije trebati odstraniti, izdubiti, iz školjke makete barke

120 Kada ste obložili konstrukciju prvim slojem madira, obložite trup još jednom, ali ovaj put preciznije. Vodite računa da madiri sežu od krme do pramca. Manja plovila na području hrvatskog priobalja oblažu se tako da se prvo postavi dorazmena platnica, pa onda madir koji je priljubljen uz kobilicu. Potom madir do dorazmene platnice, pa madir do prvoga do kobilice i tako naizmjence dok se madiri ne dodirnu njihovim vrhovima na krmi i pramcu. Tada na sredini trupa ostane ovalni izduženi otvor. On se zatvori sa, prema njemu iskrojenim madirom. Debljina oplate B4 nakon drugog oblaganja treba biti 1mm. Izdubite balza blok B1 i tako ga potpuno odstranite iz školjke makete barke. Oblikujte gornji rub zrcala krme B2. Izbrusite i ispolirajte školjku barke iz unutra i iz vani. Prilagodite oblik prema vanjskoj kobilici B5 koja se nalazi na ploči oraha 2mm. Ležaj na koji će ona naleći na trup treba biti ravno izbrušen, tako da između vanjske kobilice B5 i trupa barke ne bude šupljine. Zalijepite vanjsku kobilicu B5 na trup makete barke. Sada slijedi uređivanje unutrašnjosti. Prilagodite i zalijepite krmeno B6 i pramčano B7 uzvojno koljeno sa ploče oraha 2mm. Od furnira 0,5mm debljine izrežite trake od kojih će te izraditi rebra B8. (Gornji dijelovi, rebra, korbi i donji dijelovi rebrenice, pjuani). Trake izrežite na tražene dužine i zalijepite donje i gornje dijelove rebara. Od istog furnira izrežite i zalijepite na mjesto bočno pasmo B9. Izradite i zalijepite podnice B10. Od istog furnira izrežite i zalijepite na svoje mjesto klupnjak B11. Na njemu urežite utore za klupe i pramčanu palubicu B12. Izradite klupe i pramčanu palubicu B12 od ostatka letvica. Trebaju biti debeli 1mm. Zalijepite ih. Izradite i zalijepite kontracentu B13. Razmu-kuverteluB14 odvojite sa ploče 1mm. Tu su dva identična dijela. Treba ih zalijepiti po jedan na svaki bok, tako da debljina razmekuvertele B14 na koncu bude oko 1mm. Sada vanjske i unutarnje rubove razme-kuverteleb14 pažljivo brušenjem dovedite u traženi oblik. Od orahove letvice izradite i zalijepite bokoštitnice B15. Izradite obruče (anele) B16 od mjedene žice i postavite ih na mjesto. Izradite veslabd od ostataka letvica. Izradite i zalijepite jastuke sa palcima za vesla. Maketu barke obojite u istom stilu kao i palig. Lakirajte barku mat bezbojnim akrilnim lakom. Kasnije barku postavite na stalak na palubi kako prikazuje nacrti. Vežite ja za stalak. Ako želite, barku možete smjestiti na maketi broda i na tradicionalan način: položite je sa vanjske strane pritega šupljača i jednostavnim konopcem čvrsto privežite za sartije, pripone. (Dorazmena platnica, centun; wale, rubbingpiece, sheer strake; cinta, cordone, cerchio; schergang, der). (Rebra, korbi; side frame, jead, benthead, benttimber; ordinata, costola; Spant, das). (Rebrenica, pjuana; bottonframe, rib, floortimber; madiere, ordinata, costola, membro; Bodenwrange,die). (Bočno pasmo, paraškuožule; bilgekeelson; paramezzaletto). (Podnice, pajole; flooring, floorboard; paglio, pagliuolo; Bodenbretter, die; Weger, der). (Klupnjak; wiring; sottobanco, correntedimurata; Banke, die). (Poprečna klupa, banak; thwart; banco, bancodivoga; Ducht, die). (Uzdužna klupa, banak; thwarts side, seats; sedile, banco; Langsbank, die). (Razma, rubnjak, kuvertela; topogallantrail, rail cap; capodibanda; Dollbord, der). (Pramčana paluba, kuverta; deck, coperta). (Žuljnica, rubnjak, branik, bokoštitnica, pas, kordun; rubbingstrake, righino). (Anel, oćeta s obručom; eyeboltwith ring, golfare). Bojenje makete Model možete ostaviti u prirodnoj boji drva, što Vam preporučamo, ili ga obojiti po želji, ali vodite računa da to napravite prije postavljanja konopa. Koristite akrilne boje i akrilni bezbojni mat lak. Ispod vodene linije treba obojiti crno, crveno ili zeleno. Iznad vodene linije boja drva ili mat crno do žuljnice 36. Žuljnicu 36 i razmu 34 sa krmenom ogradicom 38 mat bijelo. Između žuljnice 36 i razme 34 boja drva ili mat crno. Unutrašnjost oplate sa izdancima rebara 31, palubnom razmom 29 i središnjicom 30 u boju drva ili mat bijelo. Paluba 28 obavezno u -120-

121 boji drva. Rezbariju na pramcu 1a obojite mat bijelo ili zlatno. Vitlo 46 treba biti mat crno, kao i jarbolne klinarice 55a i 55b. To zato jer su to lijevano željezni elementi. Makete brodova treba obojiti tako da se ne sjaje. Evo i postupka: prvo maketu ispolirate brusnim papirom. Potom je premažete mješavinom 40% lanenog ulja i 60% razrjeđivača i odmah obrišete krpom. Kada se osuši obojite je po želji i pustite da se sve dobro osuši. Ponovno izbrusite i ispolirate po potrebi i obojite sve još jedan put. One dijelove koje namjeravate ostaviti u boji drva treba još jednom, nakon dvadeset i četiri sata od prvog premazivanja, premazati mješavinom lanenog ulja i razrjeđivača i odmah obrisati krpom. Kada se sve ponovno osuši lakirate sprej mat bezbojnim lakom u dva navrata između kojih je dovoljno počekati dvadesetak minuta. Tako će te dobiti idealno obojenu maketu. Rijetko se dogodi da se nakon lakiranja mat bezbojnim lakom na drvu pojave sićušna vlakna koja strše i ružno izgledaju. Ako se to dogodi, jednostavno ispolirajte ponovno taj element i ponovno ga lakirajte sprej mat bezbojnim lakom. Vlakna će nestati. (Vodena linija, crta gaza; waterline; linea di galleggiamento; Wasserlinie, die). (Jarbolna klinarica; mast fife rail; cavigliera di albero; Band das zur Aufnahme von Belegnageln). Izrada jarbola, jedara i povezivanje konopa Izradite jarbole sa svim elementima i katarkama. Premažite ih firnisom i lakirajte, a zatim povežite sve konope sa koloturima na njima. Većina kolotura na sebi ima kuku ili gambet koje izradite od žice 0,5mm ili od priloženog fitinga očete od kojeg upotrijebite ravni kraj. Postavite jarbol i povežite konope zatezače, pripone, sa napinjačima, bigotama. Bigote su s donje strane povezani sa trupom elementom načinjenim od limene trake 2mm. Postavite klinarice na priponama 56a i 56b. Treba naglasiti da je prije postavljanja bilo kakvih konopa ili jedara maketu i ostale drvene dijelove potrebno prvo obojiti po želji i lakirati. Postupak je opisan prije u tekstu. Povežite skale od konopa (vrze) po zatezačima. Postavite klinarice na priponama. Kada postavite sve konope na vrhovima donjih dijelova jarbola, montirajte produžetke jarbola i završite posao sa konopima. Osnovno što ovdje treba naglasiti je to da sve nepokretne konope treba obojiti u crnu boju. To učinite bojom za tkaninu. Nepokretni konopi su svi oni koji se pri upravljanju brodom ne pokreću. To su na primjer pripone, svi konopi koji vežu koloturnike sa katarkama ili koševima i slično. Svijetli su konopi oni koji se pokreću prilikom upravljanja brodom, to jest konopi koji prolaze kroz koloture. Izradite jedra tako što ćete ih izrezati po vanjskim vezenim rubovima, porubiti prvi rub i umetnuti žicu (koja nije priložena u kitu), pa drugi rub sa umetnutim konopom 1mm, te sašite po unutarnjim krajevima, gdje je žica, paralelno sa rubom, šavom od cca 5mm (sa obje strane). Prozirnim smolastim ljepilom na vanjske rubove oskudno zalijepite konop 0,75mm, 1mm i 1,25mm ostavivši na gornjim uglovima prstene za katarke. Taj konop sašijte za jedro konopom 0,25mm obmotavanjem na svakih cca 13mm tri puta, kroz konop u rubu jedra. Sada jedro postavite na katarku i vežite ga, pa katarku vežite na jarbol. Oblikujte jedro po želji, povežite sve ostale konope, postavite flok (prednje jedro). (Jarbolje; spars; alberatura; Schiffstakelung, die). (Jedrilje; sails; velatura; Segelwerk, das). (Konopi, rope; rig; attrezzatura; Takelwerk, das). (Pripone; shroud; sartie; Wanten, die). (Vrze; ratlines, rattlings; griselle; Webleinen, die). (Klin; belaying pin; caviglia; Belegnagel, der). (Klinarica na priponama; shroud fife rail; cavigliera della sartie; Wantnagelbank, die). (Letno jedro, prečka, flok; staysail; vela di strallo (fiocco); Stagsegel, das)

122 Stalak makete Stalak čine dvije bočne stjenke u čije se utore sa prednje i stražnje strane postavi po jedna uzdužna izdužena ploča sa natpisom. Jedna bočna stjenka dođe razom pregrade 6, a druga bočna stjenka dođe razom pregrade 10. Sastavite ga, ugodite žlijeb za kobilicu, zalijepite, obojite po želji i lakirajte. Sada je Vaš model gotov. Opširnije o našoj ponudi pogledajte na adresi « Iskreno zahvaljujemo što ste se opredijelili za naš model. Srdačan pozdrav Marisstella doo Split Hrvatska -122-

123 Popis materijala

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125 PELIG kutija: nova 65cm x 21,5cm laser: 1) PE11-10cmx20cm (iz furnir 1x200x600 mm 88204) 2) PE12-10cmx33,3cm (iz orah 2x100x1000mm 80203) 3) PE22-10cmx33,3cm (iz orah 2x100x1000mm 80203) 4) PE32-10cmx33,3cm (iz orah 2x100x1000mm 80203) 5) PE13-10cmx7cm (iz orah 3x100x1000mm 80204) 6) PE14-10cmx5cm (iz orah 4x100x1000mm 80205) 7) PE16-10cmx50cm (iz orah 6x100x1000mm 80207) 8) PE14-20cmx40cm šperploča 4mm 9) PE24-20cmx60cm šperploča 4mm 10) PE120-5cmx15cm mini balza blok (barka) letvice: konstrukcija: okrugli orah 14mm x9,5cm+2x28cm+2x12cm šjolet: hrast ili orah 1,5x7mm x42cm prvi madir, najgornji madir, kontracenta, žuljnica: orah 1,5x3mm x60cm + 3x40cm oblaganje vanjsko, zrcalo krme, tkrmeni tambuć: orah 1,5x5mm x60cm + 9x12cm + 52x6cm oblaganje unutrašnje strane mrtve bande: orah 0,5x5mm 6x60cm + 6x40cm paluba: svijetla letvica 1,5x5mm 16x53cm + 16x47cm centa, čamac: orah 0,5x3mm x60cm + 50x10cm lažna rebra, stupići krmene ograde: orah 3x3mm x3cm +13x1cm ++ okvir tambuća i bukaporte: orah 2x2mm x6cm + 4x10cm + 2x13cm + 4x3cm jarbol, katarke, bitve, bitun, sohe, kosnik, pramčana razma i vitlo: okrugli orah 10mm x50cm okrugli orah fi 5mm x30cm + 1x25cm okrugli orah fi 6mm x30cm okrugli orah fi 8mm x40cm + (ili8x8cm)2x15cm orah 6x6mm x5cm + 2x6cm +1x30cm +2x3cm orah 4x4mm x11cm -125-

126 konopi i fiting: konop 1,25mm kom1 konop 1mm kom1 konop 0,75mm kom1 konop 0,50mm kom1 konop 0,25mm kom1 očete fi1,8x8mm očet s vijkom karika 4mm ili lanac 2mm ili cm + 2x13cm + 2x20cm sidro 50mm ammiragliato 4020/50 2 pumpa lim mesing 0,5x2mm ili bakar cm žica 1mm cm bigota 3,5mm bigota 5mm alka 5mm bocel 3mm jednostruki bocel 5mm (4mm-6mm) dvostruki bocel 5mm jednostruki bocel 7mm trostruki 6 bocel 7mm dvostruki bocel 7mm jednostruki prsteni za hajmice 2,5mm klinovi 12mm (ili 32704) 36 rešetka 1,5x36x36mm nacrt 3 lista uputa za izradu jedra set PEJ1-5 ; PEB -126-

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