Quick Start SunPump Install

Transcription

1 Quick Start SunPump Install Make A Plan Visualize the complete install. The first step is to commit a plan to paper by a simplified sketch. Where is the best location for the Panels? What is the preferred path for the Line Set to reach the SunPump? This should be completed during the site evaluation visit and prior to the quote, to take into account factors that would make the install challenging, such as a small roof, steep pitch, shading, excessive height or distance, difficult path, not attic, and many other issues. TIP be Prepared. Follow a checklist for required components and supplies, such as flashings, line set, and fasteners. Also make sure you have the tools and safety equipment required checklist. Workers shall not be on a roof without Fall Arrest training and full compliance. Install Solar Panels First Four Panels come in a box, including two Right and two Left pairs. They are positioned horizontally or landscape mode (not vertical), typically in arrays or groups of 4 called a Quad, with all connections between panels. TIP: fasten the aluminum L-foot brackets to the Panels on the ground, and take up to the roof individually to use as a drilling template. Lay down protective wood strips on the driveway first, then place Panels upside-down, so the six L-foot bolts are tightened easily. (or 3 L and 3 U when more than two rows are being installed, the U-foot is used). Use a small dab of Lock-tite on the bolt threads to prevent the flange nut from becoming loose. NOTE: 2 L-brackets can be stacked to make a workaround U-bracket on the shingle roof flashing kit, but not metal. U-feet arrive in April For Shingle roofs, mark the top location for L-foot attachment by a horizontal chalk line. Next, find Top Left point where the wood truss or framing rafter intersects, and mark an X as the 0-inch reference. The L-Feet 4 lag screws are meant to hit the center of trusses 6 feet apart, plus the middle L-foot at 3 feet using 4 roof s.s. screws into the plywood or OSB sheathing.

2 Metal roofs use our metal roof kits on the flat surface, or alternatively a S5! Clamp on the standing seam ridge as the method to have a shoe for the L and U foot brackets. Using a Panel lined up at 0 drill all 4 pilot holes (3/16 ) through the center of the attached L-feet as a template for the panel ends, but not the 2 middle feet because they will use screws. Assuming your roof trusses are 24 o.c., lag screws for the left panel should hit a 0, 6 ft plus 8 ft. and 14 ft. for the right panel. The middle feet at 3 ft. will miss the Truss, so you fasten the middle aluminum shoes using 4 s.s screws at 3 ft. and 11 ft. right of 0 as an equivalent and replacement for lag screws. The single long lag screws are drilled into the 0 and 6 ft. pilot hole locations, plus four short s.s sheathing screws for the 3 ft. middle shoe locations that do not require pilot holes. For shingle roofs, cover the shoe with an aluminum flashing over the center stud, and tucked under the upper shingle to shed water. A 1 Hex Cap is used to secure the L-foot to the shoe. After the top panel row is attached, clamp or bolt the next panel down squarely in place, and repeat the process of making pilot holes, then drilling in the lag screws into the shoes, and flashing on a shingle roof, not needed on metal. Continue to work your way down in rows to suit the Panel Array layout plan. Connect Panel Manifolds A Quad of 4 Panels is connected in between by matching each left and right pair of ¼ liquid tubes, and 3/8 gas tubes, to a pair of same matching size 45-deg. Flared Tees. In other words, the 4 small tubes and 4 larger tubes are connected by 2 small ¼ Tees, and 2 larger 3/8 Tees using a torque wrench and open wrench to seal the 45-flared copper pipe to the Tee. This will reduce a total of 8 tubes down to 4 Tees in one Quad.

3 One pre-made Manifold pair or set then reduce each pair of Tees down to one pipe, to achieve equal distribution of fluid branched to the 4 Panels. One ¼ plus a 3/8 manifold is all that is needed to reduce 4 tees down to 2 pipes, to fit through the roof pipe flashing. When there are 2 or 3 Quads in the Array, additional manifolds will reduce the pipes down to one each for liquid and gas. TIP brazed copper welding has superior strength and leak-prevention than 45-deg. flared, so consider using a portable Oxy-Acetylene kit to pre-fabricate and custom fit manifolds on the roof.

4 Shown above is a 2 x 4 Array of 8 Panels on a typical asphalt shingle retrofit roof. Notice the scoop shaped pipe flashing in the center for the Line Set, as a good location for fitting the manifolds. Run Line Sets A single length of black insulated copper Line Set is run from the roof pipe flashing to the SunPump location. Estimate the length and buy from a local HVAC supplier to match the refrigeration valve sizes on the SunPump. Solaris does not include because the length and sizing variations favor a custom fit in most cases. Keep the maximum vertical distance under 35 feet, and the total distance under 80 feet for the line set. TIP the Preferred path is down into an attic space and then down an uninsulated interior wall. An alternative can be a closet corner away from shelves, with a Slim Duct cover to go over the Line Set. An exterior method is to go down the truss and then drop down through the soffit cover and down the wall to reach the SunPump, again using Slim Duct parts to cover the Line Set with the appearance like a downspout. Experience and specialized tools to snake the path can make this task go better. For appearance avoid white insulation on dark roofs, it stands out too much, or cover it. Connect Line Set to SunPump Bring the Line Set from the roof Panels to the SunPump location, and connect the flared copper pipes to the refrigeration valves on the case. TIP the lines should be straight, covered by Slim Duct, and fastened in neat, even fashion to display good workmanship. Use a level to get it right and avoid the visual distraction of a crooked picture. Little details count, keep the lines square and level for a neat and tidy appearance.

5 Pressure Test Exterior Refrigeration Lines Test the Line Set and Manifold connections by attaching a Nitrogen tank and set to 160 psi (12 Bar). If there are leaks, they must be identified and fixed. TIP spray the joints or paint with a soapy solution to look for bubbles that form from a gas or liquid leak. Consider leaving the line pressure on, marking the gauge with some tape or write down the pressure, then close the tank and leave overnight to observe if the pressure drops over hours. To save money, do not call the HVAC mechanic to schedule the commissioning until the lines are all leak free. Connect Water (or Refrigeration) Lines to SunPump Below is an illustration of a typical SunPump with an internal Heat Exchanger for delivery of heating or cooling by water through 1 copper pipes. Fitting threads on late 2014 SP2.2 models were European 1 BSP male thread, and required an NPT adaptor to use our American Standard National Pipe Thread that has a slight different thread pitch, count, and is tapered to improve a water-tight seal. If you have one of these, do not force incorrect threads that will cause damage, contact us to locate an adaptor from Watts, Ecco Heating, Daikin, or plumbing wholesaler. Models made after March 2015, SP 2.3, have the correct NPT threads and show on the ETL label as 1 NPT not just 1. Design flow rates are 2.5 gpm per 3.5 kw or 12,000 btu. A 14 kw will require a pump that provides 14/3.5 = 4 x 2.5 gpm = 10 gpm. The white pipes shown below are the insulated copper line set going up to the roof.

6 Connect Electrical Wires to SunPump The ETL label on the SunPump shows the specifications for Input Power and Running Current. If the Manual has a different or conflicting specification value, rely on the silver colored ETL label on the SunPump case as most authoritive value for the build of your model. SunPump models for North America made in 2015 are standard built for 230 volt 60 hz. 1 phase 4 wire on residential, and optional 3 phase for commercial units. Note: SP 2.2 Models made in 2014 were 3-wire, so they did not have a Neutral bar on the terminal block. The pump and 3-way diverter valve relays were all 230v, not 115v. To use 115v pump requires adding a plastic terminal bar strip for the Neutral wire, and using just one leg of power. Note: The wired Controller that is wall mounted will not function until the refrigerant has been charged, as a safety to prevent an installer from firing up a dry unit that has the valves closed and would face damage. Let the HVAC commissioning take place as the time to make Controller settings. Heat Capacity Input Power Pump Relays Wire 2+Grnd Breaker Max Line Set O.D. R410a Charge 2.8 kw 0.76 kw 230v 14/2+G 15 amp ¼, 3/ g 5.6 kw 1.52 kw 230v 12/2+G 20 amp ¼, 3/ g 8.4kW 2.90 kw 230v 10/2+G 20 amp 3/8, ½ 1900 g 14 kw 4.65 kw 230v 10/2+G 30 amp 3/8, 5/ g 21 kw 6.50 kw 230v 8/2+G 50 amp 1/2, 3/ g 7.5 kw heater 230v 8/2+G 50 amp N/A N/A Apply Vacuum Connect a good quality vacuum pump to the smaller refrigeration valve or low pressure side needle valve, to draw out all the air and moisture from inside the tubing. The gauge should read kpa and remain stable for at least 5 minutes. After successful completion of the vacuum process, the valves can be closed and the vacuum hoses removed. Balance the Refrigerant Charge The SunPump units are pre-charged to suit a short connection, and are likely to require additional R410a be added into the larger low pressure or suction line and always in liquid form. Refer to the silver label on the SunPump indoor unit for the R410a supplied weight as authoritive over the Manual or Spec Sheet. The amount to add is the addition weight of liquid, measured by the fill tank on a scale in ounces or grams. SunPumps are equipped with TXV or Thermal Expansion Valves, and can be balanced either by simple weigh-in method of adding or removing based of calculation of weight requirement; or preferably by the Super Heat method using the relationship between temperature and pressure in the system. Hire a licensed HVAC mechanic to do the R410a leak detection, balancing, and start up commissioning report.

7 Emerson TXV Must Use Refrigerant Sub Cooling The Design low/high maximum pressures for SunPumps is 305/609 psig, and the maximum peak pressure shall not exceed 700 psi. Use the Emerson phone App or slide rule to determine the correct pressure value for R410a at a given ambient temperature. SunPumps units using a Emerson BAE series TXV valve, should use the right example below for Sub-Cooling as the way to determine the amount of refrigerant. The Target temperature difference is 5 F. between the target temperature built into the SunPump round gauges or the charging manifold, and the actual measured temperature of the copper tube. TIP do not make adjustments after adding R410a for 15 minutes or more, it takes some time for the refrigerant to level itself. If you see fluctuating high pressure values, it is too soon to evaluate. R410a must be added ** SLOWLY ** as a liquid. As a guide, typical balanced pressure values should be around 450/80 psi when the water temperature is in the 125 F range. Actual numbers will vary depending on conditions. Pressures approaching 600 psi are too high. The compressor discharge temperature actual value can be accessed using the wired Controller on Parameter 38, and trips at 221 F by default but can be adjusted up to 257 F. After the SunPump is turned off for 30 minutes the both high and low pressure round gauges will typically show a reading of 140 psi as a normal equalized value. Note: It is not advisable to change the BEA-series TXV adjustment. It has 14 complete turns on the stem in total, and will likely be near the bottom. Talk to the factory before making any metering adjustments. Do Not Use Refrigerant Weigh-In The relationship of the solar evaporator panels to the indoor unit is not a matched pair, and the manufacturer s numbers are still be evaluated, leaving the weigh method a hit-miss and fine tuning method. SunPumps in the 2.8 to 7 kw range with ¼ O.D. liquid tube, add or subtract 15 grams (= kg.) per meter more or less than 5 meters allocated, or 0.6 ounce. However, the number of panels is a variable that is difficult to factor. SunPumps in the 8.4 to 21 kw range with 3/8 O.D. liquid tube, add or subtract 20 grams (= kg.) per meter more or less than 5 meters allocated, or 0.67 ounce. Weight is a guide only, use the Sub-Cooling method with a 4 F temp difference.

8 R-410a Example The amount of Sub-Cooling should be within a range of 3-8 F, with 5 F. as the Target. How to Determine Superheat 1. Determine suction pressure close to the compressor. 2. Use the Pressure Temperature Chart to determine saturation temperature at observed suction pressure. (Example: 140 psig = 49 F) 3. Measure the suction line temperature at the approximate location of pressure reading. (Example: 63 F) 4. Subtract the saturation temperature (step 2) From the suction line temperature (step 3). The difference is the amount of superheat. (Example: 63 F - 49 F = 14 of superheat) 63 F - 49 F Superheat = 14 How to Determine Sub-Cooling 1. Determine liquid pressure close to the condenser coil outlet from the blue Gauge 2. Use the Pressure Temperature Chart to determine saturation temperature at observed liquid pressure. (Example: 432 psig = 122 F) 3. Measure the liquid line temperature at the approximate location of the pressure reading. (Example: 110 F) 4. Subtract the liquid line temperature (step 3) from the saturation temperature (step 2). The difference is the amount of sub-cooling. 122 F F Sub-Cooling = 12 F R-410a psig F R-410a psig F R-410a psig

9 SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE System Problem Discharge Pressure Suction Pressure Superheat Subcooling Amps Overcharge Undercharge Liquid Restriction (Drier) Low Evaporator Airflow Dirty Condenser Low Outside Ambient Temperature Inefficient Compressor TXV Bulb Loose Mounted TXV Bulb Lost Charge Poorly Insulated Bulb 58