Enigma by Tappestry Kites

Transcription

1 Enigma by Tappestry Kites Description The Enigma is a 2.4m all- around dual line sport kite. It is an evolution of ballet kite heritage merged with attributes of modern freestyle designs. The kite marries a broad seamed ballet proportioned sail with the frame geometry and balance of a freestyle kite. It combines wind efficiency, ballet precision, and freestyle abilities into a single kite appropriate for many styles of flying The result is a capable and versatile kite that appeals to a broad range of flyers; easy and fun to fly for the new pilot with plenty of freestyle ability for the seasoned flyer; a trusted kite to keep in the bag. You may want to fly precision figures, ballet routines, team flying, or multiple kites on 125 long lines. Hook up your shorter lines and enjoy a session of yank and spank freestyle. Perhaps best of all, the Enigma is forgiving, even paced, and easier than most kites to fly in light, bumpy, and inefficient winds. The shape shifter standoffs, adjustable bridle, and tail weights are available to tune the kite to your particular flying style and field conditions. The four available models (SUL, UL, Std, Vent) cover a broad wind range. With 13 sail panels per side, the sunburst graphic offers a wide variety of color combinations. The kite is a unique combination of classic and technical elements to create a ballet kite that can freestyle an Enigma.

2 Construction Each kite is individually crafted to high standards from premium Icarex PC- 31 fabric, SkyShark wrapped carbon fiber framing, and standard fittings. The kite is built to fly while being aesthetically pleasing. Guarantee The kite is guaranteed to be thoughtfully designed, competently built with quality materials, and reasonably long lasting under normal use. It is also guaranteed to break occasionally as you learn new skills, crash into things, and explore the kite s limits. If you don t break a stick occasionally, you are not trying hard enough! Added points for wearing out a bridle. Specifications Wingspan: 94.5 (2.4m), Height: 38.5 (.97m) Model UpHaul OutHaul InHaul Standoffs 7 tunnel Tail Weights Frame Weight RTF (oz) Wind (mph) SUL 23 1/2 23 1/2 25 1/2 12 1/2, 1/ pt UL 23 1/4 23 1/2 25 1/2 13, 3/ pt Std /2 25 1/2 13 1/4, Nitro HV 22 3/4 23 1/2 25 1/2 13 1/2, 1 1/4 5 Nitro Vent 22 3/4 23 1/2 25 1/2 13 1/2, 1 1/4 5 Nitro The standoff column contains the distance from the end of the lower spreader tube to the standoff fitting. This is followed by the trailing edge offset measured under the inner standoff. For the factory setting on the standard, the standoff fitting is centered between the two spreader marks. The settings above represent the sweet spot for the various models. Note that as the wind increases, the kite gets heavier, the nose is pulled in, and the tunnel has more trailing edge offset. Frame measurements Member Length SUL UL Std Notes Spine 31 ½ P1X P2X P3X 24 ½ to bottom of T, 5.24 extension Upper leading edge 30 2pt 3pt Nitro 12 ¾ to APA/stopper Lower leading edge 30 2pt 3pt Nitro 9 ½ to APA/stopper, 1 stopper Lower spreader 31 ¼ 2/3pt 3/5pt Nitro Use heavier spreader in upper wind ranges Upper spreader 20 ½ Pultruded Inner standoff 10 2mm 3mm 3mm Solid carbon Outer standoff 11 2mm 3mm 3mm Solid carbon A note on wind range Wind range is somewhat subjective and based on wind quality, kite efficiency, and pilot skill. Smooth off the water beach wind is more efficient than bumpy winds at a soccer field surrounded by trees. The kite will fly better and lower in beach winds than in bumpy inland winds. Likewise a skilled pilot can fly a standard kite in lower winds that usually require a UL for a newer pilot to fly. The wind speeds listed above are what most flyers will find comfortable for each kite model in average wind conditions.

3 Assembly and Setup The kite is typical in construction and setup. Pull the kite out of the bag, unfold and connect the leading edge spars. Loop the wingtip lines over the knocks and pull firmly to tension the leading edges. Tie off with three half hitch knots. Push on the end caps. You can leave the kite tensioned during flying season and detension the leading edges for long term storage. Leading edge tip tensioning Insert the upper and lower spreaders making sure they are fully seated in the leading edge connectors. If the kite is new, insert the standoffs into the trailing edge holes with a firm twist while holding a couple of fingers under the sail trailing edge for support. The longer standoffs go out towards the tip, shorter standoff in towards the spine. Connect the shape shifter standoffs and insert into the lower spreader connectors to tension the sail and complete assembly. You kite should look like the picture below. How to insert and connect the standoffs

4 Leech line The leech line is pre tensioned and tied. The kite will be mostly quiet in flight and buzz lightly when the sail is loaded. When the buzzing gets loud and the lower spreaders appear stressed, the kite is overpowered and should be put away in favor of a heavier framed or vented kite. Vents The wind efficient sail of the Enigma allows the kite to fly in low and bumpy winds where other kites may not fly. That same wind efficient sail though will load quickly as the wind speed increases and the kite can become overpowered. Over 15 mph on the Std you can pull in the nose a little using the bridle uphaul pigtail to shed wind or better switch to a vented kite. The vents will fold open in two (HV) of three (full vent) stages with each opening adding a few mph to the upper wind range. Remove the covers for full venting. Open only as much venting as needed or the kite may feel mushy in flight.

5 Flying Lines Use high quality 90# spectra lines for most flying. Short 50 lines for small fields up to 125 lines for ballet and pairs flying is typical for solo freestyle flying. The tight spin and turn ability of the Enigma allows the kite to be flown on very short lines with quick reflexes for a change of pace. If the wind is blowing hard, use 150# lines and/or a vented kite. Getting Started Flying Dual line kites can be difficult to master for the new flyer. Flying success is a combination of a capable kite, favorable field/wind conditions, and pilot skill. You have a capable kite assuming correct tuning adjustments. The kite model should be matched to the wind conditions. SUL or UL for light winds. Std or vented models for heavier winds. Choose a large unobstructed flying field with smooth consistent winds. A good kite with an experienced flyer will still be difficult in poor wind conditions. If this is your first dual line kite, seek help from an experienced flyer for your first flights. Like driving a car, it is easy to crash and cause damage before you get a feel for how the kite flies and responds. As with a car, make small smooth controlled hand movements to steer the kite. Wild arm flailing will always result in an uncontrolled crash. The kite is strong but it will break. Safety Be careful out there and remember you are an ambassador for kiting to the general public. Avoid Charlie Brown moments and do not fly close to trees, light poles, fences, and buildings. I have encountered each and usually with unfavorable results. Stay alive and away from power lines, lightening, and airports. Do not be annoying and chase dogs, dive bomb your friends, fly in crowded areas, or fly next to an organized sporting event with your kite. There are many more of them than there are of us and some of the public see us as annoying, self- righteous, and hogging limited public spaces. It is often better to be considerate than to be right and snapped at by a coach, sunbather, dog, or the dog owner. Dog owners can be especially snippy. Freestyle Flying You have this kite because you are likely attracted to the excitement of freestyle trick flying while desiring a kite that also flies well. Cool, this may just be your kite! As with any freestyle performance activity such as skateboards, snowboards, ice skates, yo- yo, etc., good equipment is essential and good performance skills are paramount. I can ride a skateboard down the street but it would be suicidal for me to attempt jumping any skateboard down a flight of stairs. Likewise the best trick kite purported to give away tricks will not perform those tricks unless you understand the moves and give the kite the proper inputs. As one flyer wisely said, The kite is a tool, not a machine. Trick flying is like a game of throw and catch. You stall and stop the kite, pop or pull the lines to initiate a trick, give slack in the lines so the kite can freely rotate, finally take up the slack and regain control to fly off when the trick is finished. You must move a lot forward and backward while tricking.

6 Successful tricking requires a good kite, good flying conditions, proper understanding and instruction, lots of practice, and finally correct application of technique. Seek out experienced flyers, online training videos, and kiting forums for assistance while learning. Freestyle flying is fun and exciting and can be difficult to master. I have never found the ultimate trick kite but my flying has improved over the years. Stay with it and enjoy the learning experience! Connecting with the kite Connection means the kite fits your overall flying style and reacts how you think it will when flying. Connection means you understand the kite so well that flying becomes more an expression of your thoughts and feelings rather than a mechanical activity. Some call this the Zone, flow, Zen, AoxomoxoA, or some sort of metaphysical existential experience. Some simply call it fun. Like any relationship, close connections take time. You may experience Love at first flight or you may see good potential in the relationship but there are some aspects not yet understood that need time to develop. You may also need to make adjustments in your approach to fully realize the relationship. Any new kite deserves a few months time to prove itself a worthy companion. Putting a kite down and coming back later may give a fresh appreciation for the kite as will learning new skills. Stay with it and the rewards will come. Flight Trimming Flight trimming and adjusting is saved for last as many flyers do not want or need to tune the kite and incorrect trimming will make a good kite fly badly. Most flyers want a kite they can take out of the bag and fly. As shipped, the Enigma is tuned to its sweet spot and does not need adjusted to fly well in most wind conditions. You may want to pull in the nose one or two knots on the bridle uphaul pigtail to reduce pull in high winds but that s about all that is truly necessary. Once set the way I like, the kite trim settings are seldom changed. I change kites as the wind speed changes. The combination of SUL, UL, Std, and HV covers most winds 2-20mph. That said The kite is shipped tuned to the overall sweet spot balanced for wind efficiency and freestyle flying, weighted for rollups, and adjusted for tight spins without oversteer. Note that as the wind increases, the appropriate kite model gets heavier, the nose is pulled in, and the tunnel is narrowed with more trailing edge offset. Fly with the classic factory settings for several sessions in various conditions to become accustomed to the kite. These settings will suit most flyers and may never need changed. New flyers are strongly encouraged to fly the factory settings until all the basic freestyle moves are mastered. Resist the urge to tweak the kite hoping to compensate for poor flying conditions.

7 If you are an accomplished flyer with an established style, you may want to trim the kite to better suit your preferences. The kite is adaptable in nature and has several trim options with the bridle, shape shifter standoffs, and tail weights. While the tuning options interact with each other to affect the kite s handling, each can each be explored and adjusted independently. Experiment with one setting at a time to get the feel for the effects. Adjust both sides evenly and measure with a ruler to insure symmetry and accuracy. Return to the factory defaults occasionally to insure your new settings are indeed better for you. Warning! A badly adjusted kite will perform poorly and be frustrating to fly. Like a fine sports car, tweaks can improve performance or make it worse. There are many ways to make the kite fly badly. The tuning options will modify various aspects of flight performance but will not make the kite fly "better" than the default settings; just different. The tuning options will not overcome poor flying conditions or lack of flying skills. If you find the kite frustrating, put the settings back to default and wait for a better flying day. Bridle The bridle is the most important adjustment on the kite. If the bridle is maladjusted, the kite will not fly to potential. The bridle tow point can be adjusted vertically up or down to change the angle of attack or horizontally inward and outward to adjust the overall control sensitivity. The settings in the chart above will suit most flyers. The uphaul adjusts the vertical angle of attack (AoA) of the kite face to the wind. The knotted pigtail at the upper spreader connector makes this an easy adjustment. Shorten the uphaul to pull the nose in for wind efficiency and docile handling. Lengthen the uphaul to tip the nose back for more aggressive flying and to slow the forward kite speed. A ¼ will make a difference so make small changes evenly on both sides and test fly the results. If the wind is light, dropping the nose back a little will provide more feedback and control. When the winds are high and overpowering, pulling the nose in a knot or two to help bleed off excess sail pressure. The AoA uphaul setting will only correct so much for the wind conditions and you can move this setting too far. Always start at the default factory setting then adjust if needed. The kite may tend to oversteer and pull hard with the nose tilted back. The kite may become sluggish when the nose is pulled in. It may be better to change to a UL or vented kite to better match the wind conditions. The inhaul and outhaul are one piece of bridle line connected with a larkshead to the uphaul at the towpoint. This allows the towpoint to be adjusted inwards and outwards to adjust turning speed and spin sensitivity. Move both towpoints outward to decrease control sensitivity and increase precision. Move the tow points inward for more control sensitivity, tighter turns and spins. If moved in too far, the kite will tend to oversteer in tight spins. This setting does not need changed for most flyers. Measure the bridle legs periodically with a yardstick and correct for any line stretching, knot slippage, and maladjustments. Both sides of the bridle should be the same and accurate. Do not underestimate the importance of a properly tuned bridle.

8 Uphaul pigtail adjustment with slider knot Towpoint larkshead Weights The tail weights add momentum for freestyle tricks. An appropriate amount of weight is included with each kite. Each weight is ~5 grams. Remove some of the weight if you are a more classic flyer or to lighten the kite for low wind flying. Undo the tail Velcro, remove the tail piece, adjust the weights, move the O rings as needed, and put it all back together with a light but firm tension as you close the Velcro. Shape shifter standoffs The shape shifter standoffs adjust the trailing edge profile and affect the kite s handling. To accurately measure the TE offset, lay the assembled kite on its back on a flat table with the spine parallel to the table. Measure the distance between the trailing edge and the table at the inner standoff position. Both sides should be the same. Adjust the standoffs in small increments and evenly on both sides. Once set to your preference, the standoffs are typically not moved much. The trailing edge offsets listed above are typical and will suit most pilots. Move the standoff connectors in towards the spine to flatten the trailing edge and enhance spins, some tricks, and wind efficiency. The kite may tend to oversteer especially in low winds. You can go too far so proceed slowly with changes and return to the default settings occasionally for comparison. Move the standoff connectors out towards the tips for a more classic feel, to increase precision, increase pull, minimize oversteer, and slow the kite in higher winds. You can go too far in this direction as well.

9 Start with the factory settings. On the standard, the standoff fitting is centered between the two spreader marks. The UL moves the standoff fitting in 1/4 from the center and the SUL 1/2 inward from center. The vented moves the standoff fitting outward 1/4 from center. Experiment and find the sweet spot that works best for you and your flying conditions. Std classic standoff settings UL classic standoff settings Trimming for wind conditions In practice most flight trimming involves adjusting the kite for the prevailing wind condition. You will not enjoy flying the kite if it is under or overpowered. The default settings for each kite model are adjusted for the sweet spot wind range most appropriate for the kite. The sweet spot wind range is where you can easily launch the kite and stand in one spot and fly around the wind window comfortably. The easiest way to adjust for the wind is to switch kite models. If winds are light and your Std is sluggish and will not climb easily, try switching to a UL or an SUL in the lightest winds. Likewise if the winds are blowing, the kite pulls hard, and the frame shudders or bends, it is time for a heavier framed kite or a vented. You can better optimize your bridle for low winds by lowering the towpoint one or two knots on the uphaul pigtail. The longer uphaul (lower towpoint) will make the most of the wind efficient broadseamed sail and provide more feedback and climbing ability as you pull back on the lines. Prevailing wisdom says to raise the towpoint and pull in the nose for low wind conditions but this may make things worse and the kite more sluggish. You must fly actively in low winds. Step backwards and pull back to help the kite climb and walk forward as the kite is diving to gain lost ground. The kite will fly in higher winds if you move the towpoint up (shorted the uphaul on the adjustment pigtail) to pull the nose in and let the excess wind slide off the trailing edge. This will only help so much and if the kite still feels overpowered you ll need a heavier framed kite, open some venting, or time for a beer.

10 Tuning epilog If you like to tinker with trim settings, the adjustable bridle, tail weights, and standoffs offer many possibilities. Some configurations work better than others so proceed slowly, test often, and return to the defaults occasionally to confirm your improvements. If all this trim discussion seems overly complex and daunting, simply stay with the default settings as those settings are very good for most conditions and flyers. You do not have to change anything out of the bag to have a nice flying kite. Have fun and thanks for choosing to fly the Enigma! Steve Tapp, Tappestry Kites, USA Enigma 3.1 December 2015