Owens River Gorge. presents. a selection of sport climbing at. Gorgeous Tower. The Pub. Negress Wall. Social Platform.

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1 Gorgeous Tower... Good Thing Climb the steep face. Bad Thing Climb the steep face. d c. Soul Music Climb the ugly face with bolts above the water.. Engorged Climb the lower arete, to the face and right to the per arete. Enraged Start at a small right-facing corner, climb and left with a thin seam and then the per arete as Engorged.. Mumbles The Guzzler 0c Start on the bulge, climb and left to the nd bolt and then. BING SOME GEA. 7. Pippy The Zenhead Climb the arete left of the "gully". 8. ap It Up Start just right of the "gully" and climb and right on the face. You Have Been Nothing But Trouble Since the irst Day I Laid Eyes On You; You're Like a Thorn in My Side; I Don't Know rom One Day to the Next What Stid Lame Brain Stunt You're Gonna Pull; Now Get Out of Here, Get Out of My Office, Get Out of My Life, Once and for all Get Out, Out, Out, Out! b Start the slope and climb the tall face. iver 7 8 iver 0 0. Two eet to Hell a Start in the pink streak, climb the face and the slab. 0 feet!!! raps with Gorge and Purge anchors.. Gorge and Purge Climb the thin face 0 feet left of the arete.. Gorgeous 0a Start on the right face and climb the mega classic arete. METE OPE!. C'mon Knucko b Climb and left for the first bolts and then to 0 feet right of the arete.. Knucko's Pride of the... b Climb right of the middle of the face. METE OPE! The-Aretical Climb the arete left of the gully. 8. Unknown 8 7 a. Hidden a Climb bolts on the face and GEA climb the per crack. 70 METE OPE! 7. Giveaway Climb the arete right of the gully. Climb the bolted, wide right-leaning crack. TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE presents a selection of sport climbing at Owens iver Gorge The Pub Negress Wall Social Platform Gorgeous Tower Great Wall of China Dilithium Crystal The Eldorado and more of the best cliffs in the gorge

2 Owens iver Gorge, California Bishop is making the news lately for its incredible bouldering, but Sacramento one shouldn't forget that it also has some good sport climbing. The basalt you'll find in the gorge offers some of what people call the best moderates in California. As usual, we haven't included quality ratings in the topo, but in Owens a good rule of thumb is just do the most chalked line. Some of the routes here are really long and a 0 meter rope is recommended. How to get there: It is located on the east side of the Sierras, less than 0 minutes from Bishop. rom Bishop, drive North on highway for minutes or so and at the bottom of the small hill, look for a small wood roadsign and make a right on Gorge d. Drive until the end of this road, restart your odometer and make a left on Gorge Parallel d. You'll follow a big water pipe. You have three parking options to the gorge. The first one is after. miles and is paved. Park before the gate and walk down the paved road. This approach is easy but much longer. I suggest this option only if you're carrying a baby, have a broken leg or riding your bike. The second parking is after.8 miles and is a dirt road which goes downhill. Park at the end of this road, take the trail at the back of the parking and walk/scramble down the gully. This approach is not really fun but it is by way the shortest and you'll get straight to the crags. It is OK for dogs. The third parking is after. miles. I don't recommend it. Although the walk down is shorter, the walk in the canyon is the worst. rom all the areas selected in this guide, only the Gorgeous Tower can be reached faster by this parking.. Hacking & Spitting Start feet left of the corner and climb the less-than-vertical face.. Corporal Clinger 0a Start in a small corner, climb the left-facing flake/crack and trend right to the face.. Drill Sergeant 8 Start as Corporal Clinger but go left along a small right-facing corner and to a dihedral.. His Spirit Start with a short blocky crack, climb to a rounded "arete" and finish left of a small roof. Love Of Jesus 0a Climb and left in a small corner with a big flake to a high first bolt and climb the exposed face. Sreme Wizard ormation You'll recognize this area for its west-facing, man-made stone wall which offers a nice, really wide ledge. Not many people climb there, but it offers a few nice routes on the way to Gorgeous. 8,7.. Satori Climb the face to a steep, cracked dihedral. a 7. Gravitron d Climb the first bolts of Lat Machine then go right in the roof for more bolts then. 8. Lat Machine Start right of the arete and climb through the left of the roof. Pretty In Pink, Climb the exposed arete by its left side. 0b When: The gorge is a canyon and always has one side in the shade and one in the sun (if there are no clouds of course). The best is to climb there in the Spring or in the all. Winter is often nice and if it's too cold, just go bouldering at the nearby Happy Boulders. Summer gets warm but you can still climb mornings or afternoons. Eat: Very near the Gorge on is the 'town' of Tom's Place. It is actually just some cheesy hotels and stores, but they have great greasy post climbing food and a small store. It is much closer than Bishop. In Bishop, there is a big Vons, many restaurants and a fine bakery on the main street. Sleep: There is a free camping on BLM land. It is near the Happy Boulders. rom Bishop, drive north on highway Make a right on the Pleasant Valley Dam oad. Look for a dirt road on the left that goes hill. You'll get to a big pit filled with dirty climbers. Small donations are welcomed to pay for the outhouse. There is also a pay camping further on Pleasant Valley Dam oad. Many motels are also available in Bishop. Guidebook : Owen iver Gorge Climbs by Marty Lewis, Maximus Press

3 Dilithium Crystal 0 To Lake Tahoe 8 7,, Owens iver Gorge See overview page. Liquid ire Enterprise b.. Extreme Caffeine Coffee Achiever 0a 0b. 7. Next Generation Vulcan Jock Itch 0a Gorge Parallel d. Lava Java 8 8. omulan oids Descriptio 0b Gorge oad To Tonopah Stardate. Klingon Crabs 0a Vulcan Variation Klingon omulan oof Phasers on Stun c 0. Kirk. Spock. Twister. project 0c 0a b? BLM cpg Happy Boulder Chalk bluff d Sad Boulder irst/last traffic light Jean Blanc d Bridges d Dixon Ln 0. Mind Meld. Photon Torpedo. Trouble With Tribbles a 0c. Mr. Check-off Sulu. Dust in the Wind 8 The Buttermilk 8 Ed Powers d Barlow Lane West Line St dowtown Bishop East Line St. Dr. Claw. Not or Sale d 7. Dellinger 8. Clip Jockeys 0c Buttermilk d Druid Stones to Joshua Tree

4 Gorgeous Towers (page ) Owens iver Gorge overview Sreme Wizard ormation (page ) Eldorado oof This huge roof is on the east side of the river. You can't miss it. However, finding the routes on those roofs can be pretty confusing. We did our best to represent the area. The darker the roof, the higher it is. We didn't figure out where to finish # and 7. There is also a really low roof/cave not represented on the topo. Good luck. 0 8,7 xx 8 That's where the routes start , xx -0 7,- 8,, That's where the routes finish,, house in ruins Negress Wall (page 7) The Pub (page ) Penstock ock (page ) Power House Wall (page ) Power House Dilithium Crystal (page ) Eldorado oof (page ) Staying Power Towers (page ) The Solarium (page ) Great Wall of China (page 0) Social Platform (page 8). Towering Inferno 0 Pitch - Start right of the roof. Climb in the dihedral then traverse left for a long time following an horizontal crack. Pitch - Climb the face. Pitch and - Not recommended. Chongin' in the Hood c Climb with a left-facing flake to the lower roof, then traverse left under the roof for bolts then climb the crack to finish as Godzilla.. Godzilla Does the Dizzy... Start on cheater stones. Climb the first low roof with a blocky crack then and right under the bigger roof with another crack.. Civilized b Start as Godzilla but after the low first roof, go left with the crack under the bigger roof and pull over around the roof. lakenstein b Start on cheater stones just left of Civilized, climb and left under the lower roof and traverse left staying under the lower roof to finish as What Me Worry.. Downward Spiral d Go to a feet high shelf then climb through the roofs to join Civilized. 7. What Me Worry b Start on cheater stones. Climb a seam for bolts, then more on the face, then traverse left under the roof to finish as Letter Bomb? 8. Brewtalized c Start on cheater stones, climb a broken corner for 7 bolts then traverse under the per roof for bolts and finish as Downward.... project Start as Brewtalized but go straight through the per roof along a crack. 0. Slacker Start as Brewtalized but after the third bolt, traverse left then then left to the anchors of Letter Bomb.. Unknown Start as Letter Bomb but climb and right after the st bolt to finish in Slacker.. Letter Bomb Start low with a short left-leaning crack, climb through a small roof to the first bolt then the short face right of a "V" shaped dihedral to anchors under the roof.. project Extension of Letter Bomb. more bolts through the big roof with a crack.. Unknown Start as Loony Binge but traverse right with the undercling crack under the per roof to finish as the project. Loony Binge c Start on cheater stones. Climb along a crack in an open corner then traverse right with a big flake in the roof to finish on the project anchors. Lower off with a 70 meter rope or rap down.. Proctology Exam b Start on a block, climb a steep crack which becomes a right-facing corner and finish in the big hole under the roof. 7. Longest Yard c Start as Independent Worm Saloon but traverse right under the roof to finish as Loony Binge. 8. Gape Index b Climb the right-facing corner with many pockets and climb straight through the roof.. Independent Worm Saloon b Start on a block, with a crack and traverse and right, crossing Gape Index, to a flake in the roof. 0. project Climb and right with the last crack of the now much smaller roof.. project Climb and right in the face.. Probation Violation Climb the long face with a crack. 0 feet!!!. Enraged Pixie Gear climb the thin crack.. Drillin' Time Again Start right of the boulders and climb the face. a

5 , Staying Power Towers Solarium The Powerhouse Wall and The Penstock ock Those walls are just beside the big powerhouse, where the pavement starts. chossy rock down ".0" ".0" 7 "8.0" 8,0. Dial Start 8 feet left of the arete and climb the face to a left-leaning seam.. Vital Signs Start behind Contagious and climb the face to a high right-facing flake.. Dead on Arrival Climb along the left-leaning seam.. Body Count Start feet right of where the corridor narrows and climb the face. Contagious 0b Climb the lightning bolt crack then the face. Bring gear for the start.. Thieves in the Temple Start between big broken cracks, climb through a tiny roof then trend left on the thin face. 7. Insane in the Membrane b Go to a small ledge, climb and right bolts and straight more to the anchors. 8. Blood Sugar Sex Magik Go to a small ledge, climb a big, short right-facing flake and the tall face. bolts, 0 feet!!!. Wired ight-facing flake to a face, left of chimney. 0. Ya Shoulda' Killed Me... Nice bolted crack and through a small roof.. Destiny Technical, less-than-vertical face.. Don't Make Me Laugh b. Members Only 0c/ Start with a short left-facing flake and climb the face. pitches (8 feet! and 00 feet!). Bender Start as Optimator but at the th bolt, go right.. Optimator Start with the rounded left-facing flake, trend left at the th bolt to climb just right of the arete. Direct North ace 0b/b Climb the face 8 feet right of the corner and avoid the pointed roof by the right. pitches (st is 0 feet long!) bolts on the short face... Unknown Short top rope.. Some Kind of Wonderful Climb the short arete by its right side.. Valley 8 0b Climb the right-facing corner with a good flake and a tiny roof. If I Told You I'd Have... a Climb the face feet left of the arete through an undercling flake/roof. Thing That Wouldn't... d Long face that goes through a small roof.. Electric Vex c Climb the face just left of the squared cut arete then trend right to finish left of bug, horizontal, metal sticks. 7. Cement Overshoes b Climb the face right of the cement wall and finish right of the cement box. 8. D.W.P. Direct Climb along a seam, next to a "8.0" graffiti. Go to a small right-facing flake and the face/arete. 0 METE OPE!. D.W.P. ight Start as lashflood and go left after the first bolt to finish as D.W.P. Direct. 0. lashflood b Climb to a jug one foot of the first bolt then climb the long face through a small left-facing flake.. Pumping Groundwater Start with a left-facing ramp and crack filled with cement. Climb and right to the crack just left of the arete. Scramble or climb to a high first bolt and climb the arete to finish as Pumping Groundwater. You might want a friend for the start. b Scramble to a ledge. Climb the face left of the arete and trend left at the end. Short slab.. Save Mono Lake. unky Cole Patina. Penstock Slab Stess Ppet a Stick clip the first bolt and climb the small roof onto the slab. TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE

6 The Pub The Solarium Great Wall Of China.. Wonderbar Short face. 0c. Unknown 0c Start on the ledge and climb the face with a small roof above the second bolt.. Gary Gray 0b Start with a left-facing flake and climb the face with a small roof near the top.. Unknown a Climb the squared-cut arete by its left side. Abitarot 0a Start in a small left-facing corner and climb to a featured face. Homebrew Start left of the wide crack and climb the face. 7. Hardly Wallbanger 0c Climb the first short wall just right of the wide crack and climb the per wall along a thinner crack. 0 METE OPE! Hungover b Climb in the middle of the first short wall and climb the per wall between thin cracks. METE OPE!. High Ball Scramble the first part with big broken cracks and climb the per wall with an undercling flake and to a thin crack. 0. Menace to Sobriety Scramble the first part as High Ball then go right to climb the per wall between the thin crack and the arete.. Hammered b Scramble the first part as High Ball then go right to climb the per wall just left of the arete.. Set ree 0c Start on small ledge. Climb right of the arete with left-facing flakes.. Light Within 0c Climb the face to the end of the right-leaning crack. Staying Power Towers down. Menace II Society 0b Start left of a small roof and climb the face 0 feet left of the gully.. Sendero Luminoso 0b Start with a crack, scramble to a ledge and a high second bolt then climb the face and the per arete. 0 feet!. Morning Wood Start on slopers, go left, the arete and keep going on the face. 0 feet!. Split Decision Start as Morning Wood but go left on the ledge to earlier anchors ,, down Many climbs in the gorge are really long. Don't take any chances, TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE 0. Venom Start with a wide right-leaning crack, to right-facing flakes then trend left to finish as Snake Eyes.. Snake Eyes Start just left of Venom, trend left for bolts then go straight.. project? Start in a corner under a low roof and climb the face along a seam.. Psmead b Start feet left of the arete and climb the brown face. Black Hole /a Climb the crack above the alcove, then go straight the face. c if you stop at the first anchors.. ocus a Start as Power but go right at the third bolt to a small roof then a crack. 7. Power Start on a right-facing flake climb straight through the face and the bulge. 8. project? Climb the arete.. Cobra b Start just left of the corner and trend left on the face.. Direchossimo b Climb to a tall, featured, black and brown face. Hocus Pocus a Start just left of the corner and climb the steep face.. Shocker b Start with a left-leaning crack then climb the steep face 8 feet left of Hocus Pocus. 7. Show Us Your Tits 0b Start with a small left-facing flake feet left of the arete, climb the face then trend left after the th bolt to finish as Cabaret. 8. Cabaret Start behind a boulder and climb straight on the face.

7 Great Wall of China Negress Wall The Solarium , down. Confusing Confusius Climb the face with bulges and old hangers. 0. Tsunami. Shogun Start left of a short right-facing ramp and climb the face to a high right-facing flake.. Unknown? Start with an undercling and a right-facing jug, go and right to left-facing holds then straight. Trend right at the th bolt to finish in Shogun?. Kung Pao a Start as # but trend left at the th bolt to finish as Gengis Khan. Gengis Khan a Start with a thin right-leaning crack for bolts, then trend right to finish as Kung Pao.. Geisha Girl Start feet left of Gengis Khan, go and right to the nd bolt then and left to the rd bolt. Short face. bolts. 7. Beijing Start next to a really thin seam. Trend left to finish as Tiananmen Square. 8. Tiananmen Square 0c Start on big edges, go left on a flake to the st bolt then go straight.. Yellow Square c Second pitch of Tiananmen Square. After the last bolt of Tiananmen Square, go left to another set of anchors and climb this second pitch.. Yellow Peril 0c Climb the featured, flared bolted-crack on the right side.. Peking Duck Climb a good right-facing flake just left of the crack Mandarin Orange b Climb grey rock to a ledge then through the bulge with a right-facing flake. Tsing Tao 0a Start with big holds to a small ramp under the first bolt then go straight. China Doll 8 Start on big holds 8 feet right of a thin crack. Climb and right to the first bolt then trend left to meet the crack at the th bolt. Enter the Dragon 8 Climb the short face with big edges. The anchors are right of the black streak. ortune Cookie Climb the short face with big edges and old hangers. The anchors are left of the black streak. Heart of the Sun Climb the face to the right of a "weird-squared-donut" at the ledge and keep climbing on the per face. Start just left of the drop and climb straight on the face.. Child of Light 0. Cornercopia 0a/b Climb chossy looking rock to a rounded crack and anchors. Keep climbing in the steep dihedral for an b.. Imprisoned Behind Lies Low-inclined face with a good block above the second bolt Black Ice 0b Gear climb the crack to fixed anchors. Smoothie c Climb the thin face with a light streak for bolts to a big leftfacing flake (optional gear). Malcom X Climb on the inclined ramp to a thin face. Broken Battery Climb the face to left-facing flakes (gear) and Chocolate City anchors.. Chocolate City Start on the rounded arete and climb the left face. Botswana Baby Gear climb the crack in the dihedral. ear of a Black Planet 0a Climb the face and the crack in the right-facing corner. James Brown Second pitch of ear of a Black Planet. 0. Mandela bolts on the short face. a. Z Dong Gear climb the chossy-flake-dihedral-chimney with one bolt on the face.. Ambassadors of unk 0b Start with a right-facing flake and climb the face along a seam. pitches.. Sweet & Sour 0b Gear climb the crack in the "V" shaped dihedral.. Welcome to the Gorge Climb a long, low-inclined face with good edges. Clip Jr. Start with a crack, climb a face with many holds and to a sharp arete.. High Seas 7 Start 0 feet right of the gully and climb the face left of a high black streak. 7. Crowd Pleaser 8 Start at the right of the plateau and climb the face right of a high black streak. 8. Humbly, Mumbly, Jumbly 0a Start down the stairs with a short left-facing flake and climb straight.. Babushka 8 Start with funky-rounded flakes, climb on dark rock and straight to the top of the wall. 0. What Up? 0b Climb feet left of a crack. TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE 0 7

8 The Social Platform Bone Up Climb the face just right of the corner to a small roof. METE OPE!. Book of Bones Gear climb the crack in the dihedral.. Scrutinized Climb the face and finish as Skeletons in the Closet.. Skeletons in the Closet Start with the right-leaning seams, climb through a small bulge and a face. resh Squeezed Climb the face just left of the rounded arete.. Orange Peel 0c Climb and right with big edges and short flakes to finish as resh Squeezed. 7. Chillin' at the Grill Start 8 feet right of the big crack, as Orange Peel, but go left to the first bolt then go straight on the steep face. 8. Spinal racture a Gear climb the crack.. Ned Guy's Proud... Start just right of the arete and a big boulder. Trend right to a bulge then the face. 0. ipoff Climb the face to a steeper finish.. Expressway b Small move to a good shelf then straight the face. 8 feet right of the corner.. oadkill a Climb the thin face. Straight for the first bolts, then left to the third and then straight to the anchors.. uedal Beerlords 0c Gear climb the nice rounded crack to the arete and bolts.. Nirvana 0a Start just right of the crack. Climb the face to a left-facing flake. ork it Over Start before the big drop. Climb the face between the crack and the arete.. Butterknife 8 Start at the base of the cliff and gear climb the wide crack. 7. One Holer 0a Start behind a boulder. Gear climb the right-facing flake/crack to bolts on the face. 8. Unrepentant Sinner Start with trees at your back. Gear climb a crack to a small roof then climb the bolted face finishing right on the anchors of One Holer. TIE A KNOT AT THE END O YOU OPE 8