1 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

Transcription

1 1 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

2 LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or any other body. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! Port Elizabeth 30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulderstoorberg Swartberg 1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwe44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop 2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn 3 PE urban crags & boulders32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering 4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route 9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama 10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier 11 Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags 12 Pinnacle Gorge East London 13 Cockscomb 34 NSA 14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole 15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River Baviaans 16 Grips 17 Kudu Kaya 18 Waterkloof Grahamstown 25 Alicedale 26 Howieson's Poort 27 Moodies 28 Bouldering 29 Thornkloof R62 50 Ladismith N2 Oudtshoorn Uniondale Willowmore 21 R62 24 N Steytlerville R329 R Plettenberg Bay Eastern Cape Climbing Venues Nieu Bathesda Graff-Reinet Patensie Middelburg N10 Cradock R75 6 Hankey Uitenhage Jeffreys Bay Tarkastud Stutterheim 39 Hogsback R63 King Williams Town Fort Beaufort N2 Alicedale R East London Port Elizabeth Aliwal North Queenstown Grahamstown N2 43 N6 Mthatha N Port St Johns Coffee Bay 46 More route guides can be found on NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. You are more than welcome to down load & print out down this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. But unfortunately this guide must not be uploaded to a web site other than easterncaperockclimbing.co.za. As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to marshall@qsafrica.co.za. All information will be greatly appreciated. The intention of this guide is to help you find the lines that have already been climbed so that time is not wasted repeating lines that have already been opened. Thanks to Gavin Peckham for the route information that he shared. Special massive thanks to Keith James for organizing the funding for the bolted lines & for keeping climbing at the Hog alive for decades. DIRECTIONS: Find Hogsback village. At Kings Lodge turn into Wolf Ridge Road. Continue for 5.2km to a large dam. Over the dam wall. 2km later turn L at a ruined rondaval, marked 4x4 route. Continue for 1.1km to a L turn on a steep sharp 2 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

3 bend. This is the contour road. The parking to the main walk up is 2.3km along the contour road, in an old shallow quarry. This is also the main campsite. 4X4 or high clearance vehicle may be needed to negotiate contour road, depending on the road condition. There are 4 paths to the crags. 1. Most commonly used is the path up the middle. This is short, steep & leads directly to the Fame & Fashion sector. You can keep an eye on your vehicle in this car park. 2. About a 1km further along the contour road is the start of the diagonal path. This is much longer & less steep than middle path. 3. Still further along the contour road is the path up the LH ridge. This is the path that was used to access the campsite on the shoulder of the LH ridge. Easy walk, but very long & the road to get there is real 4X4 country. 4. Instead of turning onto the contour road, continue past it for about 0.5km. Take the next L. Follow this 4X4 track to a sweet swimming dam. The path starts on the LH side of the dam & leads to the far RH side of Hog 1. Path is good & not too steep. GHT SEYMOUR ALICE R345 FORT BEAUFORT CATHCART R351 STUTTERHEIM HOGSBACK MIDDLEDRIFT R63 N2 PEDDIE N6 KING WILLIAMS TOWN N6 N2 EAST LONDON ACCESS: Is unrestricted to Hog One at this stage. Hog Two requires permission. Please contact Derek Marshall info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for details. This is Cape Pine land. Please don t make any fires. HISTORY: Hog One has attracted trad climbers since the early 1980 s. Amongst those who opened lines are: Eric Penmen, Keith James, Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Ward, James Kantor, George Kockot, Alan Briers, Alvin Woods, Kevin Smith, Martin Lancaster & Jeremy Colenzo. There were many others. Unfortunately very few accessible records were kept & very few routes were recorded. Thus the first ascents recorded in this guide maybe only the first recorded ascents. HOGSBACK VILLAGE R345 TO KING WILLIAMS TOWN R345 TO CATHCART GIKERS KOP CAMPING LARGE DAM S32 37' 21.2" WOLF RIDGE ROAD E026 58' 11.2" S32 35' 47.8" E026 54' 18.4" CAMPING PARKING S32 36' 52.2" E026 59' 29.2" S32 38' 02.0" E026 59' 18.7" OLD RONDAVAL S32 38' 20.3" E026 58' 41.7" Keith James began the wave of bolting on the Hog. He managed to obtain European Union funding for most of the bolted lines. In those days the EU was still pretending to care about the 3 rd World, now days they are more honest. Essentially the Hog is a trad venue. Many of the sport lines were opened on natural gear & only later retro bolted. CAMPING HOG 2 CAMPING Small Dam TO KEISKAMA HOEK LARGE BOULDERS S32 38' 25.3" E026 59' 11.7" GENERAL: 248 traditional lines & 37 sport lines on slab to vert dolerite. There are some overhanging routes, but mostly they are slab to vertical. This is a country trad venue that does not see a huge amount of traffic. Expect some veg ok expect lots of veg & fungus & moss. It s a country venue. It is what it is! It s fantastic! 3 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

4 POTENTIAL: There are lots of routes that still remain to be opened. The Hogs cracked nature, lend themselves to trad although there are some bolted sectors. Feel free to bolt, but try to find stuff that cannot be safely led on natural gear. Please use stainless steel bolts & hangers. There is fair potential for opening boulder problems especial at the base of Hog 2 & 3. There are boulders near the big tree. WHERE TO STAY: Hogsback is a recreational village. There are tons of Bed & Breakfasts, hotels, bungalows & lodges. Way too many spots to list here. You may need to book over Easter, Christmas or at any time it snows. Away With the Fairies is a back packer with camping facilities & a pub. Unfortunately they often party deep into the nights.so if you are not up for joining them beat it to some awesome bush (FREE) camping. Camping out is probably not really allowed, but it is very difficult to police (nobody gives a s***). Recommended spots are next to Wolfridge Dam, at the car park on the contour road or on the shoulder of the LH ridge of Hog One. Pitch your tent after dark. Do not leave your tents pitched while you are off climbing.they will be stolen. STUFF TO DO: Hogsback caters for all types of interests, cultures & activities. If you are not into meditation centres, realms of the cosmic & wampy pamp hippy life. You will be thrilled with the pubs & awesome pizza shops. There are walks, mountain bike trails, trout fishing & hippy chicks for off-days & rainy days. Oh, take a book to read it will rain! The best pizza shop in SA is the Butterfly Bistro just off the main road in Hogsback village. Unfortunately these days Butterfly Bistro close at 17:00 on a Saturday. Still Butterfly Bistro is worth the effort they have been forgiven for not stocking Red Heart Rum, but they do have the inferior Captain STAR RATING SYSTEM Morgan. Butterfly Bistro also stocks that kiff Cintsa craft beer. Good route at this crag. BEST SEASON: Hogsback offers all year round climbing. Winter has low rain fall & is very mild during the day, but can be piss cold. Summers are normally very hot during the day & nice at night. Start out very early in summer & head down after dark. Rest up during the heat of the day. Don t waste too much time trying to predict what the weather will do in Hogsback. It can rain in the village & be perfect on the Hogs. Or the other way round. Good route in the area. Classic route in this province. No star Reasonable to bollocks. ABBREVIATIONS & SYMBOLS 14 Bolted route T Trad route, natural gear ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES: The area where the cliffs are is not currently officially protected. Don t get caught trashing the place by the local climbers (they do give a s***). 1. Please pick up any litter found & bring it out. Yes we know it wasn t you, but there is nobody else who will pick it up. If folks are seen littering, check if they are from Uitenhage then swear at them & threaten to bliksem them. 2. Resist the urge to role rocks from the top unless it s on a route. Seriously! 3. Taking a dump: Make sure you are well away from paths, rock faces & streams. Please cover your turd & paper up well. Don t burn your paper as it may set the place alight. Put a large rock over your business so wild animals don t dig it up. 4. The brambles that grow everywhere on the Hog are aliens. Please cut them back. 5. The veg on the routes will grow back. So pull it out or leave it in.it makes no difference. HAZARDS, SAFETY, WARNINGS & EMERGENCIES: 1. Always use a helmet.even on the sport routes. There are lots of loose rocks. 6B Number of bolts C Chains or top anchors Chains or top anchors Piton Removable bolt Afternoon Shade Morning Shade Shade all day Sun all day Dappled shade all day Can be climbed in wet weather Yes it can happen to you. 2. Security is a fairly big issue. Take the usual precautions. Keep your valuables out of site. Don t leave tents pitched in the car park. There have been a few vehicle break-ins through the years. Security in the village, despite the hippy atmosphere, is quite poor. Take care. Police Tel: or Keep clear of groups of hunters in summer. They have not attacked anyone yet, but it could happen. 4 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall P RB

5 3. Fire: Keep fires small & very controlled. Cape Pine have fire watch towers & they may investigate if they see your fire. Timber has a value. A forest is worth more than your folk s house. 4. Mountain Rescue: Phone Rob direct or or State that you need mountain rescue. 5. No real snake hazard. 6. Take a head torch up. Often have to walk down at night.7. Always carry a jacket, lots of water & sun hat. The weather is totally unpredictable. One minute its hot the next it s raining & cold. 5 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

6 Campsite Page 7 Segregation Page 9 Car Park Mordor Page 10 Magic Mushroom Page 12 Sword Page 14 Passage Fat Slugs Page 16 Page 18 Kursk Page 21 Fame & Fashion Page 23 Tea spot Diamonds Page 25 Buffalo Page 26 Good Karma Page 28 Phallic Page 31 Infidel Page 33 Wind of Change Page 35 Granny Page 37 Hog 1 6 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall Campsite

7 Campsite Sector This is a sweet sector on the far LH side, close to the camp site which is on a small uncomfortable slope at the top of the spur below and L of the Camp Site Sector. These routes are found on the RH side above the camp site on a large broken ledge. All the routes are a bit short, but are surprisingly nice. This is a good area for beginners to learn how to lead on natural gear. 1 & Campsite Sector Under the Gun 16 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester Nov 2003 (T) Start under the sloped roof just R of the blocky arête. Stay to the R of the Arête. Onto ledge. Move R and up off width flake. 2. Desires Found 17 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall Nov 2003 (T) Up the open book, moving R and up the off width flake. 3. Battle Colours 17 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester Nov 2003 (T) Start in small off width ramp 7m R of Desires Found. 4. Gripping Edge 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall Nov 2003 (T) Start-up good crack 9m R of Desires Found. 5. Kameraden 21 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester Nov 2003 (T) This is a short route, found on a face below the previous four routes. About 30m R of the camp site. Climb the crack which faces the camp site, 1.5m L of a blunt arête. This is surprisingly hard. 6. Take No Prisoners 19 33m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2005 (T) Climb the pillar just R of the deep crevasse. At the loose block traverse L & up a L trending veg crack. Then up the chimney. 7. Final Words 17 34m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/03/2005 (T) Up the open book 4m R of the deep crevasse. At the roof traverse L onto a ledge. Up the crack system into a veg chimney crack. 8. Always Will Be 16 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 01/05/2005 (T) Up gross line to R of very veg gully. Line blanks into hard moves that were not worth doing. 9. Seconds Anyone 16 Matt Long & Derek Marshall July 2002 (T) Start up a crack system comprising of L facing open books, about 1m L of a short, L facing, fist, open book. 10. Camp Site Sex 16 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/03/2005 (T) Start in the short, L facing, fist, open book. This is on the LH side of a small blocky buttress. Continue straight up to the top. 11. War Cry 17 29m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/2002 (T) Start up the RH side of the small blocky buttress. Continue straight up. 12. Psychological Roast 18 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/03/2005 (T) 7 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

8 Start up the off width open book on the LH side of the ramp in the gully. Move a bit L towards the top. Some very tricky moves. Nasty! 13. Images of Yesterday 16 25m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 11/2003 (T) Up the RH open book in the gully. This is quite a sweet route. 14. They Live By the Sword 18 32m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/03/2005 (T) Start up the RH side of the rounded, broken, blunt arête. This is easy, but not very nice. Move R and up towards break in the overhang. Follow the obvious line from here. 15. Walk This Way and We Can Win 18 32m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/03/2005 (T) Start on the RH side of the tea cave. Traverse L to the prominent off width. Straight up this. 16. Crow Food 17 Keith James (T) Straight up the middle of this face, Wow! 17. Any Food 14 30m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 25/03/2005 (T) Start R of the undercut face. 18. Hamerfall Will Prevail 19 36m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2005 (T) Up the arête to the R, then through the break on the R. Up slabs to the top. 19. Standing Strong 18 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 01/05/2005 (T) Climb the prominent off width to the LHS. Start up the very veg open book. 8 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

9 Segregation Sector Some lovely trad climbing to be had in this sector. 1. Spit or Swallow 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2005 (T) Up the line starting on the LH arête, trend T then back L, at the tiny roof above break out R. 2. Crow Wall 19 Keith James (T) Straight up the middle. 3. Power & Glory 18 39m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2005 (T) Start up an open book below the LH of the twin veg cracks. Up the LH crack, moving to between the two cracks to top out. The veg is bad, but not as bad as it looks. Segregation Sector Crow Song 19 Keith James (T) Up Grassy seam. 5. Battle Discipline 17 39m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/03/2005 (T) Climb the gross looking open book chimney with a huge choke stone half way up. Pass easily under a huge boulder. Top out, remaining in the open book. This is a way nicer route than it looks. 6. Afternoon Tea 17 40m Garvin Jacobs & William Lesley 12/03/2005 (T) Up the broken arête, just to the R off width open book chimney with a huge chock stone half way up. 7. Sensual Violation 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2004 (T) P m Start up awesome hand crack 1.5m L of semi-free-standing pillar, with an unusual horizontal phallic sticking out of it. Belay off ledge with off width above m Up off width into first crack. Move slightly L to top out. 8. Cruel & Unusual Punishment 20 25m Derek Marshall & Chris Te Braake 15/03/2004 (T) Climb the off width open book. If you are into nasty off widths. this is for you. Easily protected with a 5 & 6 Friend and 2 No. 4 Big Bros. 9. Strain of Desire 16 25m Derek Marshall & Chris Te Braake 15/03/2004 (T) Start-up blocked open book, with large blocks jammed in it. Top out. 10. Low Lifer 17 26m Mike Louw (T) Up prominent curving crack. 9 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

10 Mordor This is a rather broken and vegetated sector which runs from the end of the Segregation Sector to the start of The Magic Mushroom Sector. Look past the veg and there is some enjoyment to be found. Mordor Squeaking Pips - 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/03/2004 (T) P m Start in 'V' shaped recess which ends in a small roof with a fist crack running through it. Up to a largish tree then up the arête of a fallen pillar to a big ledge m Move to the R on the ledge, then up perfect hand crack for about 6m. Start to stem with the open book. Easy moves to the top. 2. Everything You Don't Feel Like 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2004 (T) P m Climb up veg to a short "nice" crack. Move L up to tree. Up fairly nice moves to a big ledge. This is such a crap pitch m Climb through the roof on the R. Up a series of bulges and mantles. Cool pitch. 3. On the Way to Durban 18 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12/03/2005 (T) Up the big steps to slabs with lots of veg to the R. 4. Burying The Dead 18 19m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12/03/2005 (T) Up the off width to the large chock stone. Then traverse L to a tree. Abseil from here. 5. Before The Ship Goes Down 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 12/03/2004 (T) P m Start in wide off width, just R of green chimney. Up staying r of chimney to a large ledge. Up the open book for 6m to a tree. Up L to a good stance behind the free stander m Up the chimney behind the free stander. Find a great hand crack. Up large blocks to the top. 6. In-escapable Hero's Death 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 05/03/2005 (T) P m Up the broken line to the L of the "spear point", to a belay point on top of the free stander m Trend R over thin slab moves to the top. 7. Questionable Fear 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/03/2005 (T) 10 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

11 P m Blocky line to the R of the "spear point". Move L into the superb crack system. Belay from the top of the free stander m Good crack to the top. The top part of the route makes the bottom slog through veg, worthwhile. 8. Forged in Battle 17 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 05/03/2005 (T) Up diagonal off width to the top of the stack. 9. When a Prophesy Comes to Pass 19 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 05/03/2005 (T) This is the thin crack between Forged in Battle and Building Empires. Very sweet moves. 10. Building Empires 14 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 05/03/2005 (T) Off width to top of stack. 11. The Dark Ride 19 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 05/03/2005 (T) Scramble up to the top of the stack. Up the crack that runs to L of Derek's Epiphany, moving R to chains of Derek's Epiphany. 12. Derek's Epiphany 18 34m Derek Marshall & Kevin Watkins July 2002 (12B&C) 13. Return to the Zoo 25 32m Kevin Watkins & Derek Marshall July 2002 (10B&C) This route was bolted by Derek Marshall, but opened by Kevin Watkins. At time of bolting, an abseil nut was found just below the roof. This was said to be Edmund February's nut and it is presumed that this is as far as he got with the route. Magic Mushroom Sector Mordor Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

12 Magic Mushroom 1. At Least The Concept 20 22m Keith James 2002 (10B&C) 2. Star Struck 27 21m (10B&C) This was bolted by Martin Renz. Not sure who opened it. Magic Mushroom Sector Tangled Web 17 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/03/2005 (T) Start in the open book. Move R into wide vertical slot, which becomes a horrid crawl through. Break out and then climb the blocks to a large tuft of nasty grass. The idea was to climb into the easy looking gully above and send a second pitch. On the day it was extremely wet. To exit down climb to the LH side and find the natural abseil thread. 4. Silver Fox 17 20m Garvin Jacobs & Craig Bester 06/03/2005 (T) Up 'V' open book to roof. Grovel into the slot to the L. Break out and climb the blocks to nasty tuft of grass. To exit down climb to the LH side and find the natural abseil thread on the Tangled Web. 5. Days of Reckoning 17 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/03/2005 (T&1B) Climb the twin cracks at the start of the impressive gully that runs up to the roof cave. About 8m up move L into a capped 'V' groove. Through this roof onto immaculate rails. That is immaculate under serious moss and fungus. Continue up to below a very sweet looking crack. Abseil from the single bolt at the base of the crack. 6. Boy Scouts On Speed 17 24m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 06/03/2005 (T) Start up the off width & onto blocks. Continue up in the direction of the first pitch of The Magic Mushroom. Abseil from one of the bolts below a small overhanging in an open book. 7. The Magic Mushroom 27 Kevin Watkins & Keith James 2002 P m (?B&C) m (?B&C) 8. Sautéed Digits 21 Keith James 2002 (16B&C) 9. Bad Influence 19 45m James Kantor & Keith James (21B&C) This was originally climbed on trad, back in the days. Retro bolted by Keith James in Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

13 10. Cassinga 18 Hans-Peter Bakker & Derek Marshall 15/08/2009 (T&C) Starting in the chimney crack, break into the crack line & follow it to the anchors of Bad Influence. Avoid the bolts on the L. 11. Crack Sniffer 17 Keith James 2002 (15B&C) Magic Mushroom Sector Sword Sector Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

14 Sword Sector This sector starts with Derek's Repentance on the L and stops at the top of the descent gully on the R. Sword Sector Repentance 22 25m Jonathan Wiggley & Derek Marshall 2002 (8B&C) 2. Eat the Fungus & Climb the Route 19 25m Derek Marshall & Hans-Peter Bakker 15/08/2009 (T) Up L trending sharp flake. Move L & into RH groove crack. Directly up to tree below the roof. Abseil from the tree. 3. Be Lifted Higher 20 Derek Marshall & Mark Mannheim 27/11/2016 (T) P m Start to R of V shaped oblong block. Trend L & up till you reach a veged large ledge. Step R, over a large loose block then up a steep juggy arête to belay on an open book ledge m Up stepped & railed buttress to the L. Nice climbing. 4. Raven 17 Keith James (T) Easiest line up front of buttress. 5. Miraculous 17 56m Juan-dray & Derek Marshall & Mark Mannheim 09/05/2015 (T) Up R trending layback crack to a roof, over this & move R into wide veged open book. Move L over ramp to crack that runs almost horizontal under an overhang. Move L past this into a R facing open book, then move R up a ramped prow. 6. Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum 19 55m Derek & Juan-dray Marshall & Mark Mannheim 09/05/2015 (T) Scramble up to below a huge cammed block, up, fully weighting this scary block, to gain a horrid grassy chimney. Through the grassy chimney moving R into awesome crack that runs through stepped roves. At the last roof break out L to avoid the last roof, but then immediately return to the crack. Continue up on easy nondescript rock to the top. 7. The Fire Still Burns 20 52m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 09/04/2016 (T) Up blocky steps to arête below & R of large roof. Up passing the roof on the R. Move a bit L to avoid various loose blocks. 8. Get a Grip 15 51m Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 11/09/2004 (T) Up prominent hand crack to the R of a series of roves. Continue up into a gully just L of a protruding boulder to the R of the gully. 9. Ease My Fury 17 26m Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 10/04/2016 (T) In the walk down gully, on a ledge with some huge blocks. Start next to the blocks. Up on rails over some nice rock, directly up. Move a bit L to avoid some loose blocks. 10. Please Don't Climb Me 14 38m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 11/09/2004 (T) 14 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

15 Start just L of the blockage in the descent gully. Up the arête to a big platform. Then up L of the arête and into a gully which runs diagonally R. 11. Stoney Misery 14 25m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 11/09/2004 (T) Easy angled R facing open book about 15m above the blockage in the descent gully. 12. Pie in The Sky 17 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/08/2004 (T) Near the top of the descent gully on the campsite side is a R trending diagonal line. 1m R of a rounded arête. Up the crack. 5m up move onto the arête. Walkoff Sword Sector 15 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

16 Fat Slugs This is the broken, shorter & easy sector just R of the descent gully. There is one bolted route on the RH side. The trad routes are mostly very easy and on balance. Ideal for a beginner learning to lead on natural gear. 1. Schnaffel the Schnaffeling Schnaffler 19 41m Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 10/04/2016 (T) Up blocky buttress just L of the walk off. Over the ledge & up the blunt ramp arête on good rails. 2. Trial & Retribution 14 46m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/08/2004 (T) Up the 1.5m wide slab in the middle of the small amphitheatre, just R o the descent gully. Move L about 16m up, into a short open book. Continue up to a protruding off width 'V' shaped crack. Easiest line to the top. 3. Re-arrange The Master Plan 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/08/2004 (T) P m On the RH side of the amphitheatre, just R of the descent gully. Up a pile of boulders to gain a short open book. Easy ramp to a stance m Move up to 'V' shaped open book below some roves. The natural, perfect open book is extremely dangerous due to monstrous loose, balance blocks. Therefore, traverse L under roves to easy break. 4. Your Will Be Done 19 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 10/04/2016 (T) P m Start up in crack between two rounded boulders, onto stepped ramp. Up to belay below prominent open book m Up R facing open book. The boulders that make up the RH wall of the open book are teeteringly balanced & care must be taken. At the small roof at the top of the open book, break out L onto nice exposed face. Directly up to the top. Walkoff Fat Slugs Sector Ramp-up Your Fantasy 13 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/08/2004 (T) Up blocky ramp. Cross over a gully under a triangular roof. Continue up drifting L into a veg gully. 6. Dream Time 14 55m Craig Bester & A.Du Plessis 29/08/2004 (T) 14m L of "Modern Parents", up a veg recess. Move R onto easy ramp. Exit R. 16 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

17 7. Living For Today 18 52m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 10/04/2016 (T) Start up the LH V notch open book, below the large roof. Below the roof traverse L over a scary looking huge flake. Up trending L a bit on the cleanest rock to the LH of the opposing open books. Move R over the monstrous loose block & into the RH open book. Up this a bit then break out R onto the arête of the open book. Continue up to the top. 8. Fritz 15 52m Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoeltzmann Easter 2005 (T) Start under open book roves. After the open book ends; directly up. 9. Fat Slags - 12 James Kantoor (T) Climb the LH recess for 5m until it is possible to move out L onto the arête. Top out. 10. Anticipation of Dread 14 30m Derek Marshall & A.Du Plessis 29/08/2004 (T) 6m L of Modern Parents, up horrid veg open book to gain some pleasant open book. Move R to the chains of Modern Parents. 11. Banana Bread - 15 Keith James (T) Up obvious slab system. Skirt round roof at bottom. 12. Spit on My Mind 15 56m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/08/2004 (T) 4m L of Modern Parents, up off width open book, which begins above a rounded ramp. 10m up move R into small R facing open book. Continue to the top over pleasant slabs. 13. Zinger 17 25m Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham 2000 (T) Climb the arête just L of Modern Parents. Top out. 14. Swiss Role - 15 Keith James (T) Follow the crack prow system. 15. Modern Parents 16 25m Outward Bound (7B&C) Only bolted route at this sector. Good beginner s route. 16. Roll Over 20 Alan Briers (T) Follow finger crack into R facing open book, then through small roof. 17 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

18 Passage Sector This is the sector rock immediately R of the Fat Slug Sector. Closer inspection will reveal a system of shady "passages". Remember this on those desperately hot afternoons. 1. The Dirty Youth 14 49m Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 26/11/2016 (T) Up blocky slab, over various ledges & easy clean rock. Through an easy overhang near the top. 2. Velvet Rose 16 Terence Trevaskis & Craig Bester 09/04/2016 (T) P m Up the crack in the side of the leaning buttress. Then up stepped ramp with plenty of rails to belay on a good ledge m Up smooth looking face with rails & cracks to the top. 2. Baas Allen 13 P m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 12/09/2004 (T) Up easy angle arête just L of 'V' chimney. Up on easy ground to wide ledge m Up wide break & into crack, over ledges & easy ground to the top. 3. Lebenborn 17 50m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/08/2004 (T) Up 'V' chimney. Move R onto rounded arête to large ledge. Then up smooth looking face. Exit to the R. 4. Carrot Stick 14 52m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 28/08/2004 (T) 2m R of 'V' chimney. Up easy recess, moving slightly R to remain in recess L of the slab. 5. Noodles is a Porn Name 15 52m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 28/08/2004 (T) Passage Way Sector Start-up open book 2m R of V passage. Up prominent open book. Up easy ramps The following routes are accessed though the V passage. These routes are in the system of passages. 6. Seeking The Sun 18 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 11/09/2004 (T) P m Through the V passage, up LH arête over loose boulders. Then up LH chimney under roof. Through the sun roof onto a ledge m Climb the V off width across slab trending R into off width open book. 7. Little to the Left - Little to the Right 16 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 11/09/2004 (T) P m Through the V passage. Where the passages meet, climb up the access passage and onto slabs to gain a ledge m L into veg gully. Gully is wet. Top out. 18 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

19 8. Chindit Crack 17 50m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/08/2004 (T) Through the V passage then turn R, then L into a perfect passage. Climb the awesome hand crack at the 'T' junction. Where the crack ends, rail R around the huge boulder that closes the chimney. Into the open, up easy ramps to the top. 9. Siberian Dog Sleigh 21 15m Garvin Jacobs & Derek Marshall 12/09/2004 (T) At the end of the passage to the L of Chindit Crack, climb the LH off width. Exit L of boulder. 10. New Mirage 16 Keith James (T) P1 Up face to R of Chimney onto spacious ledge. Climb the face to pleasing chimney recess. 11. Sweet Like a Lemon 23 10m Kevin Watkins & Derek Marshall 2001 (4B&C) Short sweet bolted route. Passage Way Sector /8/9/ Dare to Believe 21 P m Garvin Jacobs & Derek Marshall 12/09/2004 (T) Start up the arête just L of overhanging chimney. Directly up on easy slab, over ledge & follow break to ledge below improbable arête m Garvin Jacobs, Jakes Oosthuizen & Milena Xochil 15/10/2017 (T) Up the arête on thin moves & rails. Gear is thin to non-existent. 13. Facilitator of Satisfaction 19 15m Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 12/09/2004 (T) Up the overhanging chimney into passage walk off. 14. Dirty Deeds 19 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 27/11/2016 (T) P m Start off a boulder 2m R of the chimney, move L into the chimney for a few metres, them move out L into a stepped roof. Past the roof traverse R over the roof. Up easy ground to a large ledge m Directly up to a perfect hand fist crack formed by a huge square Jesus block (When you are on this block you will remember Jesus!). Through the roof, then bust out L & up the face to the L. 15. I'll Be Back! 16 26m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 12/09/2004 (T) 19 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

20 Start-up chimney with pinnacle 11m R of Sweet Like a Lemon. Move L into chimney. To the point where is pinches closed. Then down climb. Sounds like fun. 16. Divine Contradiction 19 57m Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs11/09/2004 (T) 15m R of Sweet Like a Lemon, up R facing small open book, which is just L of a small roof. Follow the obvious line over slabs to a 'V' shaped chimney near the top. Enter the base of chimney. Then move L onto an arête. This is quite fearsome. Continue up easy slabs to the top. 17. Tis The Season for Drunken Brawling 18 Garvin Jacobs & Derek Marshall 11/09/2004 (T) 17m R of Sweet Like a Lemon, up L facing small open book, RH side of a small roof. Follow this line to a large comfy ledge. 18. A Life We Gota Choose 18 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 10/04/2016 (T) P m Start up weird layaway, move L over easy ground. Continue up easy ramps & rails to under the overhang. Traverse about 8m L under the roof onto a ledge with a L facing open book. Belay under the open book m Up the open book & onto the top. 19. Two Minutes to Midnight 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 07/11/2004 (T) P m Up to the R of the roof. Using initially the LH side of the green gully. Move L as soon as possible. Up easy break to comfy ledge m Continue up break, moving R near the top. 20 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

21 Kursk Sector This sector starts at the RH side of the Passage Way Sector and runs to the arch way, which is the start of Fame And Fashion Sector. Kursk Sector 5P A Kestrel For A Knave 20 Keith James (T) Climb the arête. Trend R near the top. 2. Nawattie -?? Keith James (T) Hand crack through roof. Trend R onto arête. Roof looks wicked! 3. Gangrene 18 24m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/11/2004 (T) LH side of nasty 'gully'. Through some roof-ish bits. 4. Do the Hokey Pokey 17 25m Derek Marshall & Steven Wiggley 03/10/2004 (T) Easy stepped crack, into flaring off width. Onto very comfy ledge. 5. Killing two Bushes with One Crack - 17 Steven Reed & Lozelle Du Plessi 18/04/2003 (T) P m Follow veg crack to ledge m Up recessed open book to under obvious open book. P m Up open book, then head for the top. 6. Not The Owl Roof 18 Keith James (T) Climb the RH slab onto ledge. Then up big recess. 7. Limited Levitation 20 Keith James (T) Climb slab to below roof. 8. On Your Knees 17 Derek Marshall & Steven Wiggley 03/10/2004 (T) P m 9.5m L of prominent arch. Up shallow off width into easy open book, to gain the easy stepped ledge. Move R and up to base of chimney m Climb thin cracks just L of chimney. Use chimney higher up. Move L onto easy arête. Then R up 9. Volksshadling 16 26m Derek Marshall & Steven Wiggley 03/10/2004 (T) 6m L of prominent arch. Up off width into recess, moving R to gain a good ledge below a nasty green recess. Abseil from tree. 10. Same Tune, Different Shit! Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

22 25m Derek Marshall & Steven Wiggley 03/10/2004 (T) Up hand crack 3.5m L of prominent arch. Move R behind lots-a veg. Exit from ledge using tree. 11. Kursk 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/10/2004 (T) P m Start up thin crack just L of prominent arch. Move slightly L over the curve to the break in the roof. Through the roof break and R to a small comfy ledge below a roof m Move L to a break in the roof. Up trending L to gain an easy open book. At the block above, climb the RH arête. Top out. S32º36'59.5" E026º59'51.3" 12. Arch Fiend 16 George Cockett & Keith James (T) Up the inside off width of the prominent arch. Into perfect crack. Climbed in two pitches. The next 3 routes are on the front of a small free standing boulder. All are about 12m high. Great for climbers to learn to place gear. 13. Temple of the Windz 13 12m Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 26/11/2016 (T) LH rounded ramp arête m of the Same BS Committees m Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 26/11/2016 (T) Up middle break m of Gearless Anarchy m Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 26/11/2016 (T) Up RH rounded arête. 22 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

23 Fame & Fashion This is the most popular sector on Hog One. Situated just to the R of the middle path. Most of the sport lines are in this sector. 1. Rotpunk 23 Keith James (11B&C) 2. Quintessence d elegance 22 Keith James (8B&C) 3. Street Fighter 23 Keith James (11B&C) 4. The Photographer's Route 22 Keith James 2002 P1 22 (15B&C) 21 (9B&C) 5. Angelique 27 Keith James 2001 (14B&C) Fame & Fashion 17 Diamonds Sector Tea spot Between The Thunder and the Sun - 27 Mike Roberts & Keith James (14B&C) Originally climbed on trad!!! 7. Zeitgeist 23 Keith James P1 22 (10B&C) - 23 (6B&C) 8. Fame and Fashion 18 Kevin Smith 1987 (4B, T&C) The most climbed mixed line on the Hog. 4 bolts, then move L into trad crack. S32º37'00.6" E026º59'50.6" 9. Going Nowhere Slowly - 22, A1 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/10/2004 (2P, 4RB&1B) 4m R of Fame & Fashion, dog the open book with the closed seem. 10. Butterfly 22 Aurélien Hees & Derek Marshall (T&C) Start in the recess, then up thin crack in-between the wide open book & Stew s Route. 11. Social Octopus 18 Stuart Middlemiss, Mike Loewe, Wendy Jenkin and Ian Schwartz in April 1992 (8B&C) 23 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

24 Originally climbed on natural gear. Retro bolted by Keith James. 12. Occasional Demons 25 Stuart Middlemiss, Mike Loewe, Wendy Jenkin and Ian Schwartz in April 1992 (T, P &C) Start 1.5m R of Social Octopus. Up through a small overhang, continue up thin crack. Move L onto chains of Social Octopus. 13. Chakalaka Fallout 19 Keith James 2002 (13B&C) Start up as for Spunk's Crack. Follow bolts out L and up. 14. Spinx Crack 26 Paul Schlotveld & Keith James 1991 (T) P1 19 (10B&C) 27 (T) From the bolts first pitch, move L into a heinous over hanging finger crack. Then up slabs to the top. 15. Zim Man 15 40m James Kantoor (T) Start in chimney to the R of Spunk's Crack. 16. Molest 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/10/2004 (T) P m Up chimney (not as bad as it looks) 5m R of Spunk's Crack. Move passed some veg & some easy ground to a comfy belay ledge m Easy ground trending L into a gully. 17. Rooi Spring Skoen 17 Derek Marshall & Hans-Peter Bakker 15/08/2009 (T) P m Start in the gully as for Mission Mind Crime, 4m up move L up the front of the rounded broken face too the roof. Jam the crack through the roof. Easier than expected m Easy ground to the top. 18. Mission Mind Crime 14 57m Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 30/10/2004 (T) Veg line just R of Molest. Avoid where possible the loose boulders. 19. Fat Porn Watcher 17 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 23/10/2004 (T) P m 3m R of Mission Mind Crime is a 'V' notch. Climb the broken recess to the R of this. Meandering L & R, finally moving R onto comfy ledge m Up the open book, onto veg gully. Through some awkward chimney/roof moves. Then up face. 24 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

25 Diamonds Sector This sector is just R of the Fame & Fashion Sector & has 3 very good sport lines and some fine trad routes. Diamonds on the Soles of Your Shoes is a route not to be missed. Diamonds Sector Chicks With Kiff Tits 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/10/2004 (T) P m Start up cracked ramp just R of blunt arête. Move L onto blunt arête. Move R into veg off width, then further R onto belay ledge m Step L and up easy cracks to the top. 2. The Sodder 18 Keith James (T) Climb the jagged crack that curves R, then back to the L, into the veg off width. The following three route all lead onto the same belay ledge and a tricky abseil. 3. Irish Ancestry 17 18m Garvin Jacobs & Craig Bester 30/10/2004 (T) Up L facing open book on the LH side of Guinness Gap. 4. Guinness Gap 16 17m Eric Penman & Keith James (T) Climb the fist crack which splits the small buttress. Perfect looking crack 5. Milking The Caterpillar 17 18m Garvin Jacobs & Derek Marshall 30/10/2004 (T) Up R facing open book on the RH side of Guinness Gap. 6. Dream Trader Arête 21 22m Keith James (8B&C) 7. The Spangler 22 23m Keith James (11B&C) 8. Diamonds on the Soles of Your Shoes 19 38m Clee Roy (12B&2xC) This is definitely one of the best sport routes on the Hog. This was originally opened on trad, bolted for our pleasure by Keith James bless his soul! There is now a second anchor to make getting down a tad safer. 9. Rag Head World 21 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 31/10/2004 (T) P m 8m R of Diamonds on the Soles of Your Shoes, climb the LH open book in a gully. Through a roof & up past some veg to below the off width. 25 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

26 21-32m Up the off width & the awkward flaring groove, through various roves. Then at last traverse L to a big easy stance. Buffalo Sector This sector starts to the R of the bulging arête which is 8m R of Diamonds on the Soles of Your Shoes. Buffalo Sector ends after the buttress in the veg gully, which has a large boulder wedged on the RH side about 20m high. Buffalo Sector What's In a Name 18 25m Garvin Jacobs & Steven Wiggley 20/11/2004 (T) Start in veg crack, moving R into awesome hand crack. Gain the ledge and abseil from there. 2. Pig & Whistle 18 Elvin Woods (T) Start in awesome finger crack. Trend L into recess. Then further L across gully. To be climbed in one huge pitch. It would be very big. 3. Os Terrivris -18 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 20/11/2004 (T) P m Start in awesome finger crack. Trend L into recess. Just under the roof, traverse R, across the bulge to an off width open book. Up onto very comfy belay ledge m Up the finger crack and flake system on slab. Move L to easy roof moves. Top out. 4. Wolfberg 16 James Kantor & Keith James (T) P1 16 Up awesome finger crack. Up slab. 16 Up broken crack between two pillars. 5. He Ain't! Heavy He's My Bitch! 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 07/11/2004 (T) P m Steps to chimney, then up easy crack. Up face to ledge below fine open book m Up open book and R through roof. Then up chimney to top out. 6. On the Road To Aberdeen 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/11/2004 (T) P m Steps to chimney, then up fist crack in face. Good clean veg in crack. Find a good ledge to belay m Up good crack system directly above. Moving R into open book, near the top. 7. The Way of the Buffalo 17 40m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/11/2004 (T) Start up ramps, moving R into gully that ends in chimney roof. Through this awkward roof onto easy stepped ramp to the L. 8. The Lady's Finger 15 James Kantor 08/1985 (T) Climb the front of the buttress.??? Wow! This looks very hard. 9. Huggable 17 40m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 18/04/2003 (T) 5m R of huge chock stone. Climb twin cracks to where they meet. Up squeeze chimney to ledge. Scramble to the top. 26 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

27 10. German Cry Baby 14 40m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 19/04/2003 (T) 3m R of huge chock stone. Climb the large crack into off width open book. Gain the ledge and climb the short off width. Scramble to the top. 11. Tremors 15 45m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 18/04/2003 (T) Climb the green water fall of veg below a huge dangerous looking chock stone. It improves a little towards the top. Scramble to the top. 27 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

28 Sector Good Karma This sector runs from the large jammed boulder in the L to the gross green gullies after Gift of the Revealing Light. Some of the best climbing is found in this sector. Sector Good Karma The Hairy Tortoise 18 53m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 18/04/2003 (T) Start in perfect squeeze chimney. Follow the obvious line. No deviations. 2. Lord of the Revealed Light 20 54m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 19/04/2003 (T) Climb the awesome face that faces Gaika s Kop. 3. Wannabe Waltz 19 28m Keith James 2002 (8B&C) 4. P.E. Wussies 19 25m Martin Rehm & Derek Marshall 19/04/2003 (11B&C) There is at least one bolt missing on this route, but nothing that trad gear won t solve. Apparently there is a magical dassie who is supposed to place these missing bolts. 5. Slow Dancer 20 Keith James June 1989 P1-20 (6B&C) - 19 (8B&C) This route was opened on trad with snow on the ground. 6. Light in the Black 19 56m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 18/04/2003 (T) Start in L facing open book 4m R of Slow Dancer. Trend R into open book. Then L under a small roof into another open book. 7. A Greater Share of Honour 18 57m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 18/04/2003 (T) Same start as "Light in The Black". Move further R into a R facing open book then up past the small square roof on the RH side and into a R facing open book. 8. Battle Hardened 21 57m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/04/2003 (T) Start-up easy steps onto sweet ledges. Continue up through bulging off width. This is where it becomes really excessively wicked. 9. Born to be Wild 22 Keith James July 1991 (7B&C) 28 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

29 Originally climbed on trad. 10. Wild at Heart 17 Keith James & James Kantor May 1991 P1-17 (8B&C) - 17 (6B&C) 11. Glory Days 18 52m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 18/04/2003 (T) Start 3m R of Karmic Debt. Climb the RH crack system of chimney gully. Climb through the eye to the top. A surprisingly nice route. 12. Karmic Debt 23 Keith James July 1993 P1-22 (4B&C) - 23 (9B&C) Opened on trad with two preplaced bolts. 13. The World Through My Eyes 18 54m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 15/03/2003 (T) Up obvious crack to L of Gift of The Revealing Light. This was the original first pitch of Gift of the Revealing Light which ended on the same ledge as the bolted route currently ends. Avoid the ledge, continuing up rock between chimneys. Becomes thin to protect towards the top. Therefore move R. 14. Gift of the Revealing Light 20 Keith James P1-22 (8B&C) - 23 (8B&C) Both pitches opened on trad rope solo in August Retro bolted in 2001 Sector Good Karma The Gutter 19 Keith James August 1991 (T) Start in recess. Up LH open book through a roof. Climb slab open book to the top. 16. Body Suit 19 Michelle Smith April 1987 (T) Start in LH open book with incredibly thin finger crack. Trend R to avoid roof. Up slab to the top. 17. King of the Skies 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 16/03/2003 (T) P m Climb broken steps to short lay back. Belay off veg ledge m Up prominent crack to a ledge. Move R to sharp loose looking block. Up open book through easy overhangs. A series of mantles takes you to the top. 18. Re-Think This 18 42m Derek Marshall, Craig Bester & Pat Brown 26/11/2016 (T) Start up short hand fist open book crack. Onto a ledge, traverse 2.5m L to avoid a very tricky layaway flake & mantle. Directly up via nicest line. 19. Purple Polo Neck 18 Terence Trevaskis, Craig Bester & Pat Brown 26/11/2016 (T) 29 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

30 P m Up to L of arête, up nice easy rails to a large blocky ledge m Up blocky face behind the belay ledge. Belay at a huge boulder on a ledge. P m Across the ledge moving a bit R for the last section. (Not on pic) 20. Cwam Jam 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 02/11/2002 (T) P1-14 Climb the LH crack on the small buttress between two patches of total choss Take the easiest line to the top. 21. Changing Tack 17 Mark Mannheim, Melissa Cardoso & Derek Marshall 26/11/2016 (T) P m Up easy crack break to a large blocky ledge. Walk 5m L to a large tree belay m Traverse L over rough easy ground to base of prominent break. Up this using jamming & mantling to a stance on top. 22. Ying & Yang 14 32m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 02/11/2002 (T) This route climbs the R arête of small buttress between two patches of total choss. 23. The Bad Squirrel 14 49m Terence Trevaskis & Craig Bester 26/11/2016 (T) Up broken easy ramp between the two sectors. Bamba to the top by any means. 30 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

31 Phallic Sector This sector starts at the gross green gullies on the L and continues to a gully which has a large square block in the middle of it. The sector can be easily identified by the protruding phallic which is found on The Grass is Greener. The Phallic Sector Desired Crack 16 26m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 15/03/2003 (T) Up the crack open book to the L of the huge over hanging nose. Quite broken. 2. No Fear of the Unknown 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2003 (T) P m Start 8m L of phallic chock stone. Climb thin easy face to open book. Then up lovely slab to below roof. Traverse R to bushy base of V shaped chimney m Climb the V shaped Chimney. 3. Art of Schnaffel 20 Derek Marshall, Pat Brown & Mark Mannheim 26/11/2016 (T) Up the R facing open book. At the V roof break out L onto the arête. Then move R under the huge roof into the gully. Abseil from tree. 4. Faith Has Grown 18 47m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2003 (T) Start 5m L of phallic chock stone. Up easy slab to below roof. Climb L to avoid the roof. Climb the awesome, but difficult to protect V shaped chimney. 5. Prisoners of Hope 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2003 (T) P m Up the broken off chimney to below the roof m Push through the break to the R and onto easy ramp. Same as for The Grass is Greener. 6. The Grass is Greener 19 42m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/03/2003 (T) Climb broken face, past a prominent phallic chock stone, to easy ramp. Climb to the L at top of ramp. Then through awkward roof into open book. 7. Vegetarian Cat Fight 16 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 09/03/2003 (T) Start in horrid veg open book. R onto worse veg ramp. Move L through brake in roof. Up nasty veg gully to squeeze through. Not worth climbing. Rather gouge your eyes out! 8. In Coming 19 36m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/03/2003 (T) 31 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

32 Start in horrible veg chimney. Through perfect crack in roof, then traverse R onto face. Thin moves to below roof. Move L to bypass nasty loose rock. Up and L to top. 9. Mr. President 16 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 11/01/2003 (T) Up broken gully to roof. This is the crux. Up the veg gully to the top. 10. Make Destiny My Own 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/03/2003 (T) P m Up L side of small buttress with overhang creating a good tea spot. No gear for first few meters. Belay from obvious veg ledge m Move down and R. start climbing smooth face using RH arête. 3m up tend left into piton crack. Awesome moves to the top. 11. Monica the Licker 14 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/03/2003 (T) Up broken blocks to reachy move. Into chimney. Past veg into squeeze chimney. 12. Steers S4 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 15/03/2003 (T) Start on broken slabs then into short chimney. Trend R climbing easy moves to the top. 13. Nobody Left to Blame 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/03/2003 (T) Start-up easy crack to the roof. Move L to avoid the roof. Easy cracks to the top. 14. No Fear-No Pain 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/03/2003 (T) Climb obvious crack. Traverse R to large ab tree. 15. Glad All Over 14 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 09/03/2003 (T) Up open book into series of chimneys. 16. If I Could Fly 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/03/2003 (T) Climb terrible bushy open book for 8m, then traverse R onto the arête. Up rails to the top. 17. I Can't Fly 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 10/01/2003 (T) 19m L of off width open book. Climb the stepped broken face to gain the easy open book gully. 18. N.B.S. 15 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 10/01/2003 (T) Climb the squeeze chimney 15m L of off width open book. Before large bush traverse L. Climb easy open book gully to the top. 32 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

33 The Infidel Sector This sector can be found by locating the block arch. The routes are referenced from this feature. This is also an ideal base or tea spot in this part of Hog. Water may be cached under Attack of the Mad Axeman. The Infidel Sector Arch So Here I Am 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/01/2003 (T) P1-14 Start 12m R of off width open book crack. Stepping off large flake, climb broken face to ledge with large bush growing on it Climb the LH open book through awkward roof. 2. Banana Free 19 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 11/01/2003 (T) P1-14 Start 14m L of the Arch. Climb nice chimney past heaps of veg, to belay station Climb chimney to R, under huge chock stone. Through the lowest V shaped groove to ledge. Traverse L under really huge block. I.e. on top of lowest huge block to a squeeze chimney. 3. A Sense of Wonder 19 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 10/01/2003 (T) 12m L of The Arch. Climb the crack system just L of curving crack. Stay on the arête L of Real Real Gone. Move to L of comfy ledge. A series of cunning mantles leads to a very awkward V shaped chimney. This is the crux. 4. Real Real Gone 17 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 17/12/2002 (T) 10m L of The Arch. Climb the slab into curving open book. Step L to avoid the roof. Regain the perfect off width. Mantle onto comfy ledge. Head for the top. 5. Oh Reighly 20 52m Garvin Jacobs & William Lesley 26/03/2005 (T) Same start as Pagan Punisher, move L into awesome crack and then through the roof. Gain the comfy ledge. Up R facing ramp open book and through another roof. 6. The Infidel From Natal 18 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 17/12/2002 (T) Same start as Pagan Punisher, then up awesome rails on either side of perfect off width. Gain comfy ledge. Press on to the top. 7. Pagan Punisher 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/01/2003 (T) 33 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

34 8m L of The Arch. Start in off width open book. Climb through the roof. Above the roof traverse R onto arête. Gain the ledge and head for the top. This is stunning climbing. 8. Assault Attack 20 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 17/12/2002 (T) 4m L of The Arch. Climb the open book to awkward and strenuous roof. Move R after the roof, onto splendid slab. The move through the roof is 20. The rest is 15. It is worth aiding the roof. 9. The Arch Enemy 16 53m Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 17/12/2002 (T) Climb the column of stacked blocks, which form the arch. Then up the slab to the grassy off width. Scramble the easy gully. 10. Gavin's Route 10 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 17/12/2002 (T) This is the horrible extremely vegetated chimney above the tea spot. 11. Attack of the Mad Axe Man 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/01/2003 (T&C) Start as for Mr. Peckham Sir. Climb the slab just R of very veg chimney. Small moves passed delicately balanced chock stones, into an awesome hand crack. Ab for chain just below roof. 12. Mr. Peckham Sir 19 22m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/01/2003 (T&C) Start 4m R of block arch. Traverse R onto arête. Gear blanks out below roof. Abseil from chain. 13. Under the Same Sun 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 02/11/2002 (T) Start below roof system. Gain the ramp to L of open book. Past lots of veg, onto LH side of perfect slab face. Using big open book chimney find the perfect crack. Easy moves to top out. 14. Still Loving You 21 +/- 50m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 02/11/2002 (T) Start in small chimney, into an off width, then through a small roof. Above the roof follow the crack in perfect slab face. Where the crack runs out, traverse R onto blunt arête. Small moves and tricky pro leads to nasty mantle to top. 34 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

35 Wind of Change Sector This is the sector to the left of where the hiking trail goes over the mountain on the RH side. All routes top out and the walk off is the obvious hiking trail. The routes start to lengthen to the L where Wind Of Change Sector meets the Infidel Sector. Wind of Change Sector Love Drive 17 48m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 08/10/2002 (T) Start in the gully\ chimney traverse about 2m to gain split crack. Top out on easy moves. 2. Wind Of Change 11 48m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 26/10/2002 (T) Same start as Make it Real. Stay in LH open book. Past bush and trees. 3. Make it Real 14 46m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 26/10/2002 (T) Start in hand crack. At 5m Traverse R onto arête. Climb the arête staying R of easy crack. 4. Hurricane 20 39m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 26/10/2002 (T) Start in fist crack, onto ramp, then through wriggle-through formed by large boulder. Climb to small roof. Traverse L then up easy ground. 5. In Trance 13 45m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/01/2002 (T) Horrid-veg-thing into a not-as-bad- chimney-thing. 6. Bush Pig Vs Hog 17 46m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/01/2002 (T) Start in fist crack, past a largish bush to an awesome roof with three steps. Left through the roof into crack system. 7. Blackout 17 45m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 08/10/2002 (T) Start in off width to right of open book. Climb to roof with crack through it. Easy moves left avoid the roof. 8. Another Piece of Meat 16 44m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/10/2002 (T) Start in veg open book. Up to quarter pie shaped roof. Climb the chimney groove to the right. 9. Virgin Killer 18 44m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18/03/2005 (T) Start up the thin grassy crack 2m R of the open book. Up the arête and into an open book. Move L onto the lovely arête just R of the chimney groove. 10. Hey You 18 43m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/11/2002 (T) Start in the large hand crack (this is the crux) Move L onto large blocks & then onto the open book and top out trending L. 11. Big City Nights 16 36m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/10/2002 (T) Start on the loose blocks, over some veg & up to a curved ramp in an open book. It is quite nice at the top. 12. Eye To Eye 17 36m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18/03/2005 (T) 35 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

36 Start-up coarse ramp into veged crack system. Trend towards the R facing open book. Up this to a fine ramp move. Top out. 13. China White 17 37m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/10/2002 (T) Start-up slab with lots of rails. Move into the veg crack on the L can be used. Top out. 14. Dominance Of Steel 20 37m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18/03/2005 (T) Climb the awesome ramp using sweet rails. This is a contender for the best natural route on Hog One. S32º37'10.7" E026º59'47.4" 15. Speedy s Coming 16 35m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/10/2002 (T) Start in veg gully. Climb till level with small triangular roof to R. Traverse under roof. Climb the arête to the top. 16. Holiday 16 35m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 29/09/2002 (T) Start on the RH side of veg gully. 5m up traverse R across arête into perfect crack system. 17. Face the Heat 17 32m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/09/2002 (T) Start in open book with awkward move. Move R to gain perfect crack system. Easy moves to the top. 18. Alien Nation 18 32m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/09/2002 (T) Start in the open book to the L of a big rounded roof. About 6m up move R onto face & then arête. 19. Kicks After Six 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/09/2002 (T) Open book to the L of balanced blocks. 20. Rhythm of Love 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 29/09/2002 (T) Same start as Send Me an Angel. Move left & onto the large balanced blocks. Continue up the awesome arête. 21. Send Me An Angel 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/09/2002 (T) This is the perfect diagonal crack to the right of the large balanced blocks. 22. Coast to Coast 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/09/2002 (T) Up strange V scoop into open book. 23. Media Over Kill 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/09/2002 (T) Same start as Can t Get Enough. Break left over lots of veg into perfect layback. 24. Can t Get Enough 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 29/09/2002 (T) Grassy open book into broken choss. 25. Crazy World 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/09/2002 (T) Just L of the hiking trail. Almost climbing next to it. 36 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

37 Granny Sector This sector starts from where the hiking trail goes over the ridge of rock on the RH side of Hog One, and runs about 30m R of the path to the last route recorded, In The Bar With Two Grannies. This is where the new wave of route opening and recording started. The Granny Sector was opened after a major night at the Purple Chameleon (now Butterfly Bistro), where Derek Marshall & Craig Bester were molested by two women in their 60's...both from Gauteng hmmm...gauteng is a scary place! Granny Sector 1 Walkoff Better Than Beer 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 15/09/2002 (T) Just to the right of the hiking trail. Easy moves through a roof. Short. 2. Pleasure First 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 15/09/2002 (T) Broken Chimney. 3. Pleasure Then Pain 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Perfect crack on to thin moves. 4. Pension Pay Out 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Short crack above a roof. The roof is close to the ground. 5. GP Grannies 10 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) Broken slab. 6. Professional Grannies 10 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) Start in shallow scoop. Easy broken moves to the top. 7. Bar Licker 13 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) Short crack to L of diagonal. Break left up easy ground. 8. Gimmy a Granny 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Climb past a small tree in a diagonal crack. 9. Pommie Granite 13 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Climb the sharp arête in to the V crack. 10. Granny Porn 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Nasty recess with off width chimneys. 11. Granny Graber 12 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) 37 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

38 Start on the blunt arête Into the V crack. 12. Granny Hunt 11 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) Off width recess. Easy! 13. Forties Girls 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 14/09/2002 (T) LH side of slab. 14. Grab a Granny 10 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) Easy broken slab to the R, with horizontal cracks. 15. In The Bar With Two Grannies 11 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 14/09/2002 (T) Short blocky slab pillar. Nice and easy. 38 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

39 HOG TWO Human Fortress Sector This sector starts with the pinnacle which is on the LH side & continues R. Some really great pitches. 1. Blood Song 18 24m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/09/2006 (T) Up LH side of front face of pinnacle, using the LH arête. 2. Darker Hues of Infamy 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/09/2006 (T) P m Start just R of the fence which joins the pinnacle. Up chimney between pillars of rounded boulders. Continue up over loose boulders to a large ledge m Step down onto boulders below layaway crack. Up the layaway (7m) onto a ledge below an open book. Up the open book, then find the easiest scramble to the top. 3. Such as it Is 14 32m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/09/2006 (T) Easy ramp of loose looking blocks, onto ledge. Move L over large boulder. Up LH side of block split by a chimney. Scramble down the gully at the back. Human Fortress Sector P3 P3 P Semi free standing pinnacle Human Condition 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/09/2006 (T) P m Start up easy looking blocks. Over ledges to the L of a large monolith that forms a shady shelter on Yellowood Ledge. Belay here m Up the RH awkward crack behind the monolith. Through an eye to exit the shelter. Continue up to the base of a sweeping R curving crack over a convex ramp. Across this & up to belay at the base of the R curving off width open book on a concave ramp. P3 17 Up the R curving off width open book on a concave ramp, through a roof formed by some square large blocks. Continue to the top. 5. Kinslayer 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/09/2006 (T) P m Start up easy looking blocks. Over ledges a few meters to the R of the start Human Condition. Continue up to belay below the RH arête of a large monolith that forms a shady shelter on Yellowood Ledge m Up the RH arête of a large monolith. Move slightly R & up to the base of a sweeping R curving crack over a convex ramp. At the base move L over a roof. Continue up through cracks. Move R over convex slabs, then back L to belay below an awkward R trending crack. P m Up the awkward R trending crack to the LH side of the base of a fairly large dome. Up the dome to the top. 39 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

40 6. Rondvok 17 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/09/2006 (T) Up open book slab to the R of fence. Start where the fence is stabilized by strapping the posts to a huge boulder. 7. Op Vok 19 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/09/2006 (T) Up blunt ramp arête to the R of open book, Rondvok. 40 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

41 Freedom Call Sector Mech 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/11/2006 (T) P m Up short face with rails to gain a strange protruding flake to R of roof. Step onto this & up easy ramp system to large ledge m Walk L for about 6m. Then up crack system on buttress to R of large tree. Easy ramp with sweet rails & cracks. P m Step 4m down, then up R facing open book which is just L of RH arête or railed difficult face. Freedom Call Sector Walkoff Walkoff P Most Wanted 16 17m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 11/11/2006 (T) Awesome finger crack in smooth-ish slab. Becomes a L facing open book 8m up. 3. Shattered Dream 18 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/11/2006 (T) Grassy groove on walk down. Just R of overhanging smooth face. 4. Loss of Control 16 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/11/2006 (T) Crack system 5m R of Shattered Dream. 5. The Glory 13 29m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 11/11/2006 (T) Up steps & rails on LHS of buttress. 6. Flash of Light 14 29m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 11/11/2006 (T) Up crack system on front of buttress. 7. All for One 14 26m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 11/11/2006 (T) Up over large flake to RHS of buttress. 41 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

42 Ghost Rider Sector This is the sector with the large round balanced rock high above. 1. Ghost Buster Buster 14 22m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/09/2007 (T) On face below large balanced rock, startup step across into fist crack that is under cut by an overhang. Up to belay behind the large round balanced rock. Ghost Rider Sector Heed the Call 16 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/09/2007 (T) 6m L of Ghost Buster Buster, up undercut jagged crack system. Continue up to belay L of large round balanced rock. 3. Ghost Buster Buster Dusting Crack 14 26m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/09/2007 (T) On a buttress on the LHS of a gully to the L of the large round balanced rock, up an easy crack. Move L to avoid a loose block. 4. Burning Heart 17 22m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/09/2007 (T) Further L of Ghost Buster Buster Dusting Crack, up a L trending diagonal crack. Onto a ledge, continue up an off width to a belay. 5. River of Steel 17 26m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/09/2007 (T) Arête to L of Burning Heart. Up the lovely blunt, featured, ramp arête 6. Wings of Glory 18 11m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/09/2007 (T) In a gully, short sweet off width. This is awkward, as off widths should be. 7. Toil of the Battle 17 11m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/09/2007 (T) R trending diagonal crack into main crack. 8. Secrets of Steel 15 11m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/09/2007 (T) Short crack in middle of small face. Short, but sweet. 9. Ghost Riders 16 15m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 11/11/2006 (T) Undercut start to jagged ramp crack. Over ledge & top out. 42 Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall

43 Christmas Sector These easy routes were opened in the poring rain one beak Christmas day. 1. Stranger Among Us 13 Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 25/12/2007 (T) Easy ramp crack. 2. Father Clitoris 14 Craig Bester & William Lesley 25/12/2007 (T) Easy ramp crack in the middle. 2. Pisskop 16 Derek Marshall & William Lesley 25/12/2007 (T) Up crack trending R onto easy arête. Christmas Sector Updated 03/08/2018 Derek Marshall