1 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

Transcription

1 1 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

2 & LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or any other body. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information, with a beer, at the computer. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! Port Elizabeth 30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulderstoorberg Swartberg 1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwe44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop 2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn 3 PE urban crags & boulders32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering 4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route 9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama 10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier 11 Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags 12 Pinnacle Gorge East London 13 Cockscomb 34 NSA 14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole 15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River Baviaans 16 Grips 17 Kudu Kaya 18 Waterkloof Grahamstown 25 Alicedale 26 Howieson's Poort 27 Moodies 28 Bouldering 29 Thornkloof R62 50 Ladismith N2 Oudtshoorn Uniondale Willowmore 21 R62 24 N Steytlerville R329 R Plettenberg Bay Eastern Cape Climbing Venues Nieu Bathesda Graff-Reinet Patensie Middelburg N10 Cradock R75 6 Hankey Uitenhage Jeffreys Bay Tarkastud Stutterheim 39 Hogsback R63 King Williams Town Fort Beaufort N2 Alicedale R East London Port Elizabeth Aliwal North Queenstown Grahamstown N2 43 N6 Mthatha N Port St Johns Coffee Bay 46 More route guides can be found on NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. You are more than welcome to print out, or link to a web page this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za. All information will be greatly appreciated. DIRECTIONS: From the N2 towards Cape Town, take the Van Stadens Pass off ramp, then turn R towards Rocklands/Uitenhage. After about 5km the road crosses a rail track. Soon after the rail track turn L sharply on to a wide dirt road. Drive past the Lady s Slipper & Falcon Rock. Continue along the dirt for about 2.5km. At the T 2 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

3 junction turn R & then L. Continue to a gate that says No Entry. Park on the L about 100m before the warden s house. ACCESS: This is Nelson Mandela Metro Municipality land. You are supposed to have a permit to enter. These are free, but must be obtained from the municipal offices during week days & office hours that is before you arrive to climb. Please be supper pleasant and polite to the warden. This is important. The water is intended for drinking in PE. DO NOT piss, wash or fish in the dam! All ablutions to be done on flat ground well away from the dam. Let s behave & keep access open. ACCOMMODATION: Falcon Rock on the Lady s Slipper Road have camping & cottages. No camping is allowed in the gorge. GENERAL: Bring a costume in summer. Plenty of swimming spots & some sweet deep water bouldering. ROCK TYPE: Quartzite. Mostly steep to overhanging. 311 bolted pitches, 157 trad routes & 31 sport projects. The trad is on average very mediocre. TIME & WEATHER: Van Stadens crags are have different aspects, so there is all year round climbing. Cleopatra, Platform & The Beach can potential be climbed in wet miserable weather. Even in extremely pathetic weather Cleo has been climbable. Poop Scoop & Platform dry quickly & have limited seep. Sabaton, Easter Bunnie s, Mantis & Raven Shadow are the only shaded crags. Van Stadens is a river with hundreds of swimming spots to cool off in. There is some fun deep water bouldering for those days when it is really too hot. The river comes up after very heavy rain. Study this guide & choose your crag for the day well. POTENTIAL: There is still a fair amount of potential for new routes. The writer is saving the knowledge of these for his own pleasure. HAZARDS: Area is totally safe, but watch out for: 1. Bees, these are a serious hazard. There are swarms hiving at Kargen, The Beach. Take real care. There can be bees in a hive, only 200 stings will kill the average man. Bees are especially active & agitated on hot still days. 2. Snakes, lots of puffadders have been seen over the years. 3. Leopards, Nobody has seen one, but they are there! 4. Baboons, stay way & never try to chase them away or displace them. They are dangerous! 5. Sun & dehydration: climb early & late during summer. Siesta in the pool! 6. Don t mess with the Water Affairs Warden or his people, they will chase you away. 7. Don t make fires! ENVIRONMENTAL: Van Stadens is unspoiled awesome wilderness. Don t tell anybody, let s keep it a secret. 1. If you need to go to the toilet in the bush or at the crags, please bury your business well. Don t burn the toilet paper as this may set the bush alight. 2. Please set an example & carry out any litter you come across. It is honestly only us climbers who give a shit about the gorge. Let s keep it beautiful. Smokers we know it s not you guys throwing down stompies, obviously it s the 3 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

4 non-smokers who throw down other people s stomies to show smokers as the bad guys. So please if you see a non-smoker throwing down a stompie please confront, kak them out & make sure they carry out your stompies. Stompies are gross & don t belong in nature. HISTORY: Henry Lichtenstein records in his book Travels in Southern Africa In the Years 1803, 1804, 1805 & 1806 that there was a Damasqua Khoekhoe settlement on the heights as they crossed the Van Stadens River. This settlement would have been some where near Woodridge School or Tyson s Crag is today. There are a few Khoekhoe or Bushman paintings in the climbing areas. Nothing spectacular, but please don t touch, wet, damage or bolt close to them if you do manage to find them. Not much is known about who first climbed in Van Stadens. Probably the first climbing was at Woodridge. School Rocks has seen continuous action, mostly on top rope, through all the years from about Access to develop new lines at Woodridge was given in This quickly led to the sweetest beginners sport crag in the Port Elizabeth area. In 1982 Andrew Forsyth top roped some routes at what is now Easter Bunnies Secret Hideout & later top anchors were added. Michael Rohwer, Bradly Twig, Andrew Wesson, Craig Reynolds, Donald White & Richard van der Merwe were responsible for the initial lines at Cleopatra & The Beach in the 80s. Old top anchors were found at Poop Scoop, Platform & a very rusted piton at Eland Spoor. These crags were then lost & forgotten. The Beach was re-discovered by Morne van der Mescht, who together with Derek Marshall started rebolting & bolting new lines in The Beach was basically the only crag that saw any climbing between 2003 & This stopped in 2006 when the sandy base was washed away by a flood. Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold put down a few sport lines at Trek Africa & Apple Express in the early 2000s. The 2009 Rock n Road inspired the bolting of the rest of Cleopatra & then the current wave of sport climbing in van Stadens. Vast majority of the bolts at van Stadens were sponsored by Derek Marshall who also bolted majority of the routes. 4 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

5 Low er Van Stadens Dam Weir Park Water Affairs Warden's House Train Bridge Park Park Park 5 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

6 Poop Scoop Poop Scoop Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical sub-station. Find the path that drops down the gully 40m after the pylon. Scramble down & around the corner for about 70m to Poop Scoop ~ Fire at Will Over the Seven Seas Seventh Son of a Seventh Son Palace of Fantasy Open Project 32-ish 6. Avenge King of Paradise What If I 21 12m Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 2010 (4B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (5B&C) 12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (5B&C) Bolted Joe Mohle (4B&C) 12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (4B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (4B&C) 18m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 2010 (8B&C) Poop Scoop Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall 8 21

7 9. Magic Monday 28 Wynand & Riana Nel (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall 10. Burning Sky 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) 11. Fire Burns Forever 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) 12. Smile of the Sun 19 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 13. Let the Hammer Fall 18 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (4B&C) 14. Koevoet 19 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 15. Au-BH!! 21 Dricus Bezuidenhout & Derek Marshall (T) Up to the Koevoet, break through onto ledge. Up to L of arête. 16. Victory & Sacrifice 23 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 17. Touch & Go, Oh, Oh, Oh! 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 18. Creatures of the Underworld 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 19. The Ultimate Sin 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 20. People of the Eland 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 21. Metal Minds 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) 22. Gevegsgereed 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 23. Protean 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up open book, through ledges & through the roof to L of chains of Gevegsgereed. Belay from ledge above chains of Gevegsgereed. 24. The Toyota Way - 20 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Start a few meters L of Gevegsgereed in an off width open book. Into the slightly overhanging R facing open book at the top. Top out about 2m L of chains of Gevegsgereed. 25. Desired by the Night 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Broken ledges into crack system, onto a further ledge. Through the roof above. 26. Battle Field Shining Red 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up onto sloping ledge. Move L to a heuco cubby hole, up on jugs. Gear is surprisingly good. 27. Dragon is Bleeding 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Obvious geared break, directly below a good abseil tree. 28. Living in the Shadows 18 12m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up to L of tree, continue up break past seemingly loose blocks. Move R to belay from good tree. 29. Will You See the Light 18 15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up obvious break with defined gear hand crack above the middle of the route. Up face, then scramble to a tree. The following routes are on the lower level. 30. Moenie Vok n Skaap Nie 13 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Easy ramp just L of the tea spot. 31. Under Scrutiny 13 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Non-descript line up rock. 32. A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) P m Start below a shallow L facing open book. Directly up, over the path & through an inviting overhang to a belay point. P m Up jagged overhanging break on RH side. Up moving L to belay on large terrace. 7 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

8 P3 18-9m Up break on RH side, into crack rail above the block. 33. Eternal Dark 17 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Start 4m R of A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted. Up on sweet rails, directly up to belay on the path. 34. Will You Run to the Paradise 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Jutting out stepped tiny open book, move up to the ramp & force through an awkward roof mantle. 35. Steek Plaas 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Twin L trending diagonals over ledges, move R on steep face. Above rail 2m R to break in roof. 36. Fidelity Enforcement 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Start 4m R of Steek Plaas, up direct start on rails, over broken ramp to cracked break at the top. 37. Are You on Boom 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) R facing jagged open book. Up jagged steps to a jutting break. Directly up from this. The next routes are on the lowest level. 38. Heart for the Revolution 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) LH L trending juggy break. Short, but cool line. 39. The Bell Tolls For Terence 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (4B&C) 40. Rescue Me 14 15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up crack in ramp arête. Over the top. 41. Rainbow Flavored Puppy Kisses 18 Megan Banner & Manu Nicklaus (5B&C) 42. Rise Up Again 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) 43. Escalation of Expectation 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) 44. At The End of the Rainbow 20 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) P P Poop Scoop Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

9 Fool s Castle Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. About 80m up the spur there is a slight shoulder that indicates a ravine. Down this to Fool s Castle. It is not a very good area, but has some easy trad. 1. Fool s Castle 14 23m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) This is a sort of a free stander the on the gorge side of the ravine. Up the jagged sharp arête to a recliner shaped top. The following are on the ramp face on the PE side of the ravine. 2. Ship of Fools 12 23m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Smooth slab with tiger stripes to twin parallel R trending cracks, 4m R of R facing open book. 3. King of the Fools 16 Fools Castle 26m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 3m L of arête, up the middle using rails. 4. Fool s Paradise 18 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Start in L facing open book, onto small ledge, up crack that starts R of small roof. 5. Fool s Gold 13 28m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Start in L facing L curving off width open book. Up broken open book to the top. 6. Free Fool 12 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up rails 4m L of Fool s Gold, up RH side of square-ish block, to the top. 7. Dr Feel Good 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 5.5m L of Fool s Gold, up through RH side, moving L of block at the top. 1 Fools Castle Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

10 Prophet s Cave Park & walk-in as for Poop Scoop. Continue along the ledge & keep traversing till you reach Prophet s. There are also various boulder problems at Prophet s Cave, see the van Stadens Boulder Guide for more details. 1. Stinky Steering Wheel 14 18m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) 30m before Prophet s Cave. Easy, broken, longest & most prominent line up this small face. 2. So Hungry & So Lean 19 P2 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Scramble up to the start, about 12m above the level of Prophet s Cave. Up on sloping ledges, directly below the 2 impressive roof with the R facing open book on the LH side. At the roof rail R & into a R facing open book. Up this open book, then back L onto & around 6 1 the arête onto the face. Up to large Prophet's Cave 7 belay ledge Big Al 16 35m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club (T) Up easy scramble onto ledge. Up to R of open book. 4. Super Adventure Club 15 35m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club (T) Start at the base of L trending L facing open book. Up steps to L trending diagonal. Up to the top. 5. Trance Prophet 16 34m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) Up L facing L trending open book. Break out & straight up to nose. Move L & up small face. 6. Prophet of Profit 17 Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) P m Start over the lowest point of the cave. Up to a L curving open book roof. Move L & using the arête, up to ledge. P m Up sweet face to the top. 7. Closed Project 31-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (17B&C) The following routes are above the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave 8. Gardian Angel 16 Terence Trevaskis & Tyson Baars (T) To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move R onto easier ground, then move back L to avoid roves. 9. I Had a Dream - 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move up & L onto nice clean rock, then back R to go through the roves. The following routes are on the buttress to the L of Prophet s Cave. 10 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

11 10. Never Run Free 16 Derek Marshall, Craig Bester & Tyson Baars (T) On the RH side of the buttress, up over clean ramps to ledge. Rail L on ledge to arête & up onto top. 11. Judge & the Jury 18 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Start R. Up on good face, directly up. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a bollard, belay from a further bollard. 12. Killer Sessions 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) On the face on the end of the buttress. Start at the LH & lowest point for the face. Up on good face, trend R & up to a large tree. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a bollard, belay from a further bollard. 13. Renegade 15 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) The route is roughly in the middle of the up-stream face. Up a R facing open book, past a wattle on a ledge. Abseil from the top from tat on a bollard. Eland Spoor Prophet's Cave Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

12 Shelter Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. Shelter is clearly visible. 1. Kellogg's Flakes - 28 Erbert Nel & Alex Bester Dec 2016 (5B&C) Bolted by Stephan Kramer km in the Wrong Direction 25 Alex Bester & Erbert Nel Dec 2016 (6B&C) Bolted by Stephan Kramer. 3. Traits of a Misled Youth 27 Joe Mohle & Clinton Martingo 2009 (T) Prominent crack through roof. 4. Maak n Beweeging 27 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (T) Start 2m L of prominent diagonal L trending crack. Rail out on flake. Up into L trending thin crack onto face above. Straight up to the top. 5. Op Staan 27 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (T) 2m L of Maak n Beweeging, rail out under roof, slightly l into inverted V, straight up. Shelter The following are on a crag that is set back a few meters behind The Shelter. 6. Nos March Amos Som Temor 17 12m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Starting in a corner, directly up over breaks. 7. We March Without Fear 18 12m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up the prominent crack break. 8. The Blackened Sun 17 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up big open book, step R on ledge. Up small face on rails. Exit roof through V notch. 9. Dimensions 17 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up prominent break, moving L on ledge to exit. 10. Light Up the Sky 22 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 12 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

13 Up steps to under a large roof. Move L onto jagged arête. Up onto ledge to the R. Up L trending overhanging open book. Move round the corner onto the easy ramp to the top. 11. Airborne All the Way 18 30m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up easy ramp into a corner with a prominent R trending crack. Through this & up the ramp head wall above. 12. Choose to Be Happy 18 15m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) From a slopped ledge halfway up, up the overhanging crack break into juggy ramp head wall. 13. Conventional Elements 17 19m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) From a slopped ledge halfway up, up the arête of a block, over rampy bit on top of the block. Up the juggy jutting arete. 14. I Am The Threat 19 30m Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Starting in a lightning shaped finger crack. Over a wide ledge, up an easy ramp to the main face. Up break in the middle, following a break Rthen directly up. These routes are up the easy broken ramp face that is L of the pic. 15. When We Stumble m Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (T) Up the cleanest line basically in the middle. 16. When We Fall 13 22m Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (T) Up a shallow groove open book, then directly up to the top. Eland Spoor About 200m L & at a slightly lower altitude from Shelter is Eland Spoor. Two prominent grey faces split by a chimney. 1. Terra Smaak Vet Gat Tannies 13 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up the jagged RH arête. Eland Spoor 2. Blood Potency 16 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up the arête on the L of the RH face. 3. Blood Line 14 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up broken middle crack system. 4. Un-known Hunter 23 (T) There is an old piton on this route. Unsure who opened this line that goes directly through the middle of the LH face. 5. Passing the Buck 22 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (T) Start at the lowest point of the LH face, gain the arête. Follow the arête to the top. 13 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

14 Pump House 1. The Rising Force 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up just L of the open book. 2. Rock Bottom 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up the middle of the face. 3. Shoot - 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up on the arête. 4. Too Hot to Handle - 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Follow the gear up the middle of the face. 5. Tallulah 17 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) From the edge of the ledge, move up & L into the R trending open book. 6. On Your Knees 27 23m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (11B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 7. Shoot em Down 27 23m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (11B&C) 8. Hero Takes a Fall 23 22m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall July 2010 (10B&C) 9. Charlie Chop Stick 14 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (T) Follow the short perfect ramp crack to the chains at the top of the sport routes. 10. Punk Ass 23 15m Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 11. Closed Project 27-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 12. Closed Project 29-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 13. Animal Instinct 26 15m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (7B&C) 14. Damnation Angel 24 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (6B&C) 15. Drive By 24 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (6B&C) 16. Closed Project 26-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall 17. Closed Project 26-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall Pump House 16/ Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

15 Milestone Milestone has a short walk-in & all day shade. This makes it a sweet summer crag. 1. Age of Spin - 16 Derek Marshall & Nelmarie van Staden (T) Up ramp open book, then move L & up the arête. Take care! 2. Sexy-liscious 18 Tyson Baars & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 3. Divine Intervention - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Between Sexy-liscious & The 300, directly up the middle. Catch the last 2 bolts of Sexy-liscious. 4. The Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (5B&C) 5. Cheap Cheap Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (5B&C) 6. Big Thinker You - 17 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up 1m L of Cheap Cheap 299. Directly up. Take care! 7. Diamonds & Rust - 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (5B&C) Bolted by Tyson Baars. Thanks Ty! 8. Truth to Power - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (5B&C) Milestone Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

16 Sabaton Sabaton is the slither of rock that you see on the other side of the river as you walk down the concrete road. 1. Smoking Snakes 17 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman (6B&C) 2. Purple Heart 13 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 29/04/2017 (T) Up easy ramp open book, move L to chains of Smoking Snakes. 3. Purple Heart 15 Tyson Baars & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 4. To Hell & Back - 16 Tyson Baars & Ruhan van der Westhuizen (3B&C) 5. Reign of Terror 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 6. Rise of Evil 17 Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester (4B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall. 7. Assassin s Creed 14 Craig Bester & Ruben Snyman (3B&C) 8. Far From the Fame - 14 Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester (T) Up steps & edge to R of Assassin s Creed. Draconian ~ ~ ~ ~ Sabaton Wehrmacht - 23 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 16 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

17 10. Coat of Arms - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (10B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 11. Midway - 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (10B&C) 12. All Guns Blazing - 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (10B&C) 13. Last Dying Breath 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (11B&C) 14. Lost Battalion 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (10B&C) 15. Metal Crüe 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (9B&C) 16. Ghost Division 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 17. Uprising 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 18. Night Witches 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (12B&C) 19. Come Suck My Metal Machine 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 20. Resist & Bite 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 21. Counter Strike 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (11B&C) 22. The March to War - 21 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (15B&C) 23. Primo Victoria - 22 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (12B&C) 24. Fallen in War 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (12B&C) 25. Soldiers of Three Armies 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 26. Saboteurs 20 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (14B&C) 27. Panzer Kaempf 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (15B&C) 28. Masters of the World 21 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (14B&C) 29. Forty To One 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (14B&C) 30. Gallipoli 22 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (15B&C) 31. Gott Mit Uns - 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (10B&C) 32. The Art of War 22 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (7B&C) 33. Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (7B&C) 34. Closed Project Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) 35. Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (7B&C) 36. Closed Project Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) 37. The Last Tour 17 Juan-dray Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Up the obvious L facing open book. 38. Wolfpack 17 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 39. Angels Calling - 16 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (T) Up the railed slab directly R of Wolfpack. 40. Winged Hussars -16 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (T) 2m R of Angels Calling directly up the ramp. Move L to abseil from same tree as Angels Calling. 41. Carolus Rex - 16 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (T) Start under huge tree, stay L of tree. Where tree meets rock slab abseil down. 42. Blood of Bannockburn 16 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (4B&C) 43. Sparta 23 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (4B&C) 44. Dead Soldier s Waltz 20 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (5B&C) 45. Attero Dominatus - 21 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (2B&C) Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. (2B&C) 46. Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (4B&C) 47. Shiroyama - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson (4B&C) 48. The Last Stand - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson (4B&C) 49. Hill Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 29/04/2017 (T) 17 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

18 Easy break into wide chimney. 50. War Hammer Swedish Pagans Screaming Eagles Into The Fire The Price of a Mile Fight Back to Back - 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (9B&C) Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (8B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Alex Munro (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Alex Munro (5B&C) 18 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

19 Draconian 1. Angels' Lament - 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) On far R, up just L of prominent crack. Directly up. Over ledge up face. 2. When I Wake - 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Up juggy break, over ledges & faces above. At roof move L into break below tree. 3. Everlasting Scar - 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Basically in the middle of the crag, up indistinct juggy break. Directly up to an abseil tree. 4. Stellar Tombs - 16 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Up R trending crack, over ledge with tree. & up L facing open book. 5. Seasons Apart - 17 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) In the step-down hole on the path, up diagonal crack & up ramp off width. 6. Apostasy Canticle 14 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Up L facing ramp off width open book. 7. Closed Project Bolted by Terence Trevaskis (4B&C) 8. Closed Project Bolted by Terence Trevaskis (3B&C) 9. Bloodflower 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up diagonal R facing open book that runs for a short while under an intimidating looking roof. Continue up diagonal hand crack to the tree above. This is the best trad line in Van Stadens. Much easier than it looks. 10. Gothic Embrace 19 Derek Marshall & Alex Munro (5B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 11. It Grieves My Heart 18 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman (4B&C) 12. Heaven Laid In Tears 18 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-dray Marshall (4B&C) 13. Silent Winter 16 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (3B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 14. September Ashes 17 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (4B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 15. Wretched Tide - 17 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Up indistinct line to L of September Ashes, but staying out of the veg to the L of the crag. At the level of the chains traverse R in good crack. 16. End of the Rope 16 Ruben Snyman & Alex Munro (6B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 17. Demon You Lily Anne 14 Ruben Snyman & Alex Munro (6B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 18. The Failure Epiphany 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (11B&C) 19. A Scenery of Loss - 17 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (5B&C) Bolted by Ruben Snyman. 20. The Cry of Silence No Lonelier Star Last Hour of Ancient Sunlight A Phantom Dissonance The Amaranth No Greater Loss Rivers Between Us 19 Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (7B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (8B&C) Markus Meinhardt & Alex Munro (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Alex Munro (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Blaine Camons (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (10B&C) 19 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

20 ? ? ~ Draconian Sabaton 20 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

21 27 - With Love and Defiance 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up L facing open book that goes into a bit of an overhang. Move R above the overhang & onto the last two bolts of Death Come Near Me. 28. Death Come Near Me 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (8B&C) 29. Dishearten - 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) Up ramp to R of Death Come Near Me, onto a veg ledge. Then directly up break, moving L to chains. 30. Drowning Age - 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (T) From the veg ledge 5m R of Death Come Near Me, up the break to L of low overhang. Directly up to top out. 31. Open Project Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 32. Heavy Lies the Crown - 19 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (6B&C) 21 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

22 Kargen Walk past Pump House, about 300m upstream, Kargen is on the LH side. 1. Sons of Oden 21 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 2. The Trickster 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C) Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. 1 2 Kargen Mantis Mantis 50m upstream from Kargen, but around the pool. 1. Blood Dance 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 2. Ghost of War 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 2011 (8B&C) 3. Three One 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C) 4. Shadow King 20 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 5. Under the Spell of the Moon 21 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall (6B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 6. Tears of Babylon 19 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011 (9B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 7. Merlin 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 8. Better Than the Rest 27 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette (7B&C) 9. Guardians Of Time 28 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 10. Closed Project 30-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C) 11. Fly High 24 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette 2011 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 22 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

23 Forever This sweet face is 80m above start of the path to The Beach. 1. Last Forever 14 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Easy ramp crack. 2. We Built this House 13 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up to L of jutting overhang. Then up ramp crack. 3. Return to Forever 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up the middle of the face below the roof. Move L into R facing open book, then R under roof. 4. Forever & a Day 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up behind LH edge of free standing block. Up then traverse diagonally L to a cubby hole. Then up trending slightly R. 5. Going Out With a Bang 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up behind free standing block, moving a bit R. Up L trending ramp arête. Forever Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

24 Cleopatra From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto a sandy path. Cross the river to the PE side when you can. Follow the river upstream to a large dam wall. Scramble up the LH bank about 60m below the dam wall. Cleopatra is about 150m upstream from the dam wall & about 15m above the water when the dam is full. Routes are recorded from L to R. OP - Open Project 29-ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C) SIUP - Suck it Up Princess 22 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (4B&C) OP - Open Project 32-ish Bolted Derek Marshall (4B&C) SDPBDBAD - Sex, Drugs & Prostitution, but Don t Be a Dricus 23 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs (3B&C) TS - The Shallows 20 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (9B&C) NS - Noodle Salad 18 Martin Rehm & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. SS - Steel Sunday 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (11B&C) STM - Snaking the Mates 24 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (11B&C) M - Mene 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (11B&C) T - Tekel 22 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (10B&C) P - Peres 23 Derek Marshall & Martin Rehm (10B&C) R - Relentless 24 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (11B&C) LOTB - Luck of the Buffalo 25 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck (10B&C) SOB - Son of a Bitch - 27 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle (10B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. TOTO - Time of the Oath 24 Derek Marshall & Magnus Wagener (12B&C) SOB - Send or Bend - 24 Willem Oosthuysen & Derek Marshall (10B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. BD - Black Day 24 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (10B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. SS - Sunset Sonata - 27 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (12B&C) Bolted by Morne Van Der Mescht, extended by Derek Marshall. SAR - Send & Receive 25 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (10B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. BT - Break Through 25 Morne Van Der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2007 (9B&C) The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall, opened by Clinton Martiningo. FM - Faded Memories 26 Adam Ludford & Cameron Smith (10B&C) Original route stopped before the top. The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall HL - Hey Lord! 26 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (10B&C) KOTS - King of the Sky 25 Richard Walker 1993 (9B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall. BD - Better Days 25 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (11B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. LTU - Light The Universe - 23 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (10B&C) WT - Within Temptation 23 Derek Marshall & Garreth Brown (8B&C) G - Grawwww! 23 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C) HK - Hunter Killer 22 Derek Marshall & Martin Renz (11B&C) The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original opened as a mixed line by Andrew Wesson. 24 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

25 TS 20 NS 18 SS 20 SDPBD BAD 23 OP 34 STM 24 M 22 T 22 P 23 R 24 LOTB 25 TOTO 23 SOB 27 SOB 24 BD 24 SS 27 SAR 25 BT 25 FM 26 HL 26 KOTS 25 BD 25 LTU 23 HK 22 G 23 WT 23 HL 21 SS 23 GE 21 RTS 23 Cleopatra SALL 24 EA 20 RIR 14 IB 27 CC 20 CC 20 ST 20 SBD 21 EIF 19 AOTR 18 TR 16 FHTE 16 CRB Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall SIUP 22 OP 27

26 SS - Serial Sandbager 23 Derek Marshall & Martin Renz (8B&C) The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original bolted & opened by Andrew Wesson. Morne Van Der Mescht re-bolted the first part. Derek Marshall extended it to the lip. HL - Hunters Lunch 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) GE - Geological Event 21 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (4B&C) RTS - Ride The Sky 23 Andrew Wesson 1983 (8B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall. IB - Inner Beauty 27 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. SALL - She s a Little Loose 24 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. CC - Cleopatra s Crack 20 Richard van der Merwe 1993 (7B&C) CC - Cleopatra s Cat 20 Andrew Wesson 1993 (5B&C) ST - Snorting Tequila 19 Andrew Wesson 1993 (6B&C) AR - Agent of the Receiver 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (4B&C) SBD See Believe Do 21 Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (6B&C) EA - Élan Audacity - 20 Derek & Caroline Marshall 2014 (6B&C) EIF - Exercise in Futility 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (6B&C) CRB - Chasing Rubber Bones 19 Andrew Wesson 1993 (6B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall. FHTE - From Here to Eternity 16 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 2012 (6B&C) The Resistance 16 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Rise in Revolution - 14 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (3B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 26 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

27 Lower Cleo On the walk-in to Cleo, 70m before you reach Cleopatra, on a small corner close to the water. 1. Preemptive Attack 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up overhang just R of arête, up to belay from tree. 2. Dynamite 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up open book just R of Dynamite. 3. Some Where Some How 19 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011 (5B&C) 4. The Trooper 19 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 2011 (5B&C) 5. Quest for Fire Dreams & Fantasies Lill Bill 19 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 8. Bibi Blocksberg 18 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 9. Ti//Nhu! Trevelied Iron Law 17 1 Lower Cleopatra Easy deep water bouldering Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C) Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C) Lars Gringel & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Lars Gringel & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Rosetta Walk in as for Cleopatra. From the LH side of Cleopatra move along the ledge to a smaller trad version of Cleopatra. Routes are recorded from L to R: Rosetta 1. Wash Away Those Years 16 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 8m R of the start of the LH side of the crag, from a crack that halts, start 0.5m L. 2. Your Friend m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 3 2m R of Wash Away Those Years, up break moving R through the overhang. 3. Rambo m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 2.5 R of Your Friend up R facing open book into off width. Break out L to avoid cactus. 27 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

28 Easter Bunnie s Secret Hideout Walk-in to base of dam wall. Up the big steps to the top of the RH side of the wall. This small shaded crag is 15m behind the dam wall. All day shade, great for a hot day. 1. Sweiny Hond 21 Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 2. Diamonds in the Rough 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (7B&C) 3. Closed Project 25-ish (5B&C) Derek Marshall 4. Flight of Icarus 25 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (5B&C) 5. Sun & Steel 27 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2012 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 6. Avantasia 20 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T&C) Second L facing open book. 7. What If - 27 Matthew & Alex Grunewald 16, (5B&C) Bolted by Derek the monster Marshall. 8. Burning Down The Opera 21 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (3B&C) 9. The Headless Game 17 12m Derek Marshall & Steven Lancaster (3B&C) 10. Chocolate One Way 14 09m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T&C) Short crack 1.5m R of The Headless Game ~25 Lower Dam Dam Wall 28 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

29 The Beach From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto a sandy path on the other side of the weir. Follow the river upstream. Cross the river at the logical point to a small concrete bridge. Just after the concrete bridge, there is a fin, the path starts behind the fin. Up the path to the top of the hill. Just over the top of the hill look for a path to the L. Follow this steep path down to a large overhanging crag set above water. The base of The Beach was washed away a flood in The Beach was regarded as complete after the initial routes were opened in Derek & Jaun-Dray Marshall added most of the easier routes, making this one of the best beginner & intermediate crag in Van Stadens The Beach /20/ These routes are on a tiny crag just of the path as it drops into The Beach 1. Steam Rock Fever 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up on inside of arête, moving onto the arête. 2. Another Piece of Meat 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up to the R of the open book, move L into L trending prominent flake system. 3. Out Of Control 19 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) 4. Funky Chicken 19 Jessica Jefferies & Morne van der Mescht 2003 (5B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb Bouche 18 Morne van der Mescht & Monique Hibonet 2003 (6B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb Appetite for Destruction 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 7. Avantasia 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 8. Allen s Crazy Crack 17 Allan Luck & Derek Marshall 2003 (T) 9. Power of Fantasy 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 10. Destroy & Condemn 19 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 11. Czech This 21 Magnus Wagener & Viera Vancova 2004 (7B&C) 12. Bush Biscuit 22 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall (10B&C) 29 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

30 13. Lancaster 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (10B&C) 14. Da' Bitch 24 Magnus Wagener & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 15. Da' Bitch Complete - 24 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette (10B&C) 16. Forced Sterilization 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (8B&C) 17. Filter or Flavor 26 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2006 (5B&C) 18. Die With Your Boots On 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (11B&C) 19. Sheathless 19 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (4B&C) 20. Save Us Now 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (13B&C) 21. Wings of a Dream 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (13B&C) 22. Walking in the Air 29 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Bolted Derek Marshall. 23. Soleil 27 Martin Renz & Morne van der Mescht 2003 (9B&C) 24. Hydrophobic 29 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (6B&C) 25. Predatory Jungle Law 29 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2006 (6B&C) 26. Overthrust 23 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (7B&C) This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Morne van der Mescht extended & re-bolted the line. 27. Sleeping Beauty 25 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jefferies (7B&C) 28. Hydrophilic 27 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 2003 (5B&C) This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Extension & re-bolting by Derek Marshall. 29. Open Project Bolted Morne van der Mescht (5B&C) 30. Open Project 29-ish Bolted Kevin Watkins & Paul Brouard (6B&C) 30 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

31 Platform Same walk-in as The Beach, but near the top of the hill at a concrete beacon, follow a path L for about 300m to a steep drop down behind Platform. The Beach Walk-in to Platform Platform Wings of Time Tatoo Van n Slang Op Jou Tiete Be Cruel to Your School King of the Sky Salami Tsunami Taste the Pain Wind of Change Don t Bust My Chops A Taste of Life Hear The Heathen Call 21 Bolted by Ruan Grundlingh. 12. Bro Love 21 Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 13. Puffmutter 21 Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. 14. Týr The Hamer of Thor Closed Project 24-ish Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (12B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruan Grundlingh (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (9B&C) Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (8B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall 31 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

32 Raven Shadow From The Beach, cross the stream & the sand to a small out crop on the other side. This is in the direction of Cleopatra. This crag gets good shade. The routes & the setting is very pleasant. 1. SMSs From the Dead 21 Derek Marshall & Charl Lotter (4B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 2. Closed Project (6B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall 3. Dark Wings 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 4. Blood Bound 22 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) Raven Shadow Loppit Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. The routes are at water level, short & easy. The routes L to R: 1. Give 12 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up crack moving L into easy break. 2. What s Right 17 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 2m R of curving crack, up short blank looking face. 3. Choose to Live 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Prominent open book with perfect crack to the L. 4. Lord I Stand 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 3.5m R of prominent open book, then up jagged arête. 5. Against the Faceless Man 14 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 2m R of Lord I Stand up rails into hand crack. 32 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

33 Pipe Bridge Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. Up the tributary that the Pipe Bridge crosses. The routes are at water level Pipe Bridge The following are on the downstream side of the Pipe Bridge. 1. Knobs Walk 12 13m Craig Bester & Deon Mostert (T) Easy line to R of small buttress. 2. Puppy Line 11 13m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) Small easy line to L of buttress. The following are on the upstream side of the Pipe Bridge. 3. Chops 18 15m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) 2m L of Slithers, up under cut lay away. Into off width. 4. Slithers 16 15m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) Double tiny L facing open book. Step R onto ledge onto upturned nose. Up ramp to the top. 5. Mediocrity 17 10m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up break below off-width formed by semi-detached block on top. 6. Living After Midnight 19 10m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up prominent crack below diagonal L break. 7. Loving Till the Morning 14 12m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Start in low short L facing open book. Up stepping R into further L facing open book. 8. Loaded 14 12m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up easy break below broken fin. Rail R at the top to abseil tree. 9. God of Deliverance 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 2012 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 10. Die Swartz Gevaar 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 2012 Bolted by Craig Schwartz. 11. Heart of the Rainbow 22 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 2012 Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 12. Wings of Insanity 25 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (7B&C) Jaws of Pleasure 22 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) Wild on the Run 18 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

34 15. Freedom Call 26 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) 2012 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 16. Cry of the Night 24 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Crystal Empire 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Rise Up to Heaven 23 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Cookie Thumper 26 Juan-dray Marshall & Ruben Snyman (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 20. Closed Project 30-ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (8B&C) Pipe Bridge / Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

35 UFO Pinnacle UFO Pinnacle is the small pinnacle with the huge loose flying saucer (!) shaped boulder parked on top, about 400m downstream from the pump house on the JB side of the van Stadens River. 1. Only You Can Rock Me 16 15m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Start on a ramp on the downstream, JB arête. Stay basically on the LH side of this arête. 2. Too Hot To Handle 16 17m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up arête on the downstream, PE side. Stay basically on the LH side of this arête, moving around to the river face near the top. Avoid touching the huge flying saucer shaped boulder parked on top, it s ready to fly 3. The Mad Axeman 17 36m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) Start below the upstream, river facing arête. Move up & onto the arête, breaking L onto the river face. Up to the top, over the UFO, with caution (!). It should fly downstream, so be ready to jump upstream. 4. Rock Bottom 15 32m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up below the RH river facing arête. Up moving R to the top Abseil Tree 1 UFO Pinnacle Abseil Point The following routes are on a tiny face behind UFO Pinnacle. 5. One of Those Nights 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up crack above ramp on LHS. 6. Running Up the Highway 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up in groove moving L. 7. Born for the Good Life 15 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up through groove into R trending crack. 8. Axe to Grind 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up smooth face below notch in roof. Through the notch, moving R onto the point. 9. Shoot Shoot 16 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up below point move R of point, then directly up. 10. Let the Good Times Role 14 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up smooth ramp to R of overhand at the top. The following routes are on a tiny face above a pool opposite the UFO Pinnacle. 11. Ain t Life Sweet 16 15m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) 1m R of the arête, up the crack system. Dricus was too afraid to lead this line. 12. Doctor, Doctor 16 15m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) 3m R of the arête. Up cracks & steps onto a tree in a gully. These two routes are about 100m upstream on UFO Pinnacle, above a pool on the JB side. 35 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

36 13. Lights Out in London 13 18m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (T) From the platform just above the water, up just L of RH arête. Non-descript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock. 14. C mon Everybody 13 18m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (T) 2m L of RH arête. Non-descript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock This route is on the grey face 12m upstream of UFO Pinnacle, somewhere above the previous two routes. 15. Strength of Play 17 38m Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up the blunt LH ramp arête. Trend R & too the top. Walk off towards the waterfall. Move through a hole in the waterfall stream course. Blackout Above & slightly down stream of UFO Pinnacle. The diagonal roof cap is a prominent feature. 1. Poppers Never Tell 17 22m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up ramp on RH side of cave, then step over cave & up to a ledge. Up the middle of the face above the ledge To another ledge. Up the thin face above to some loose looking blocks. 2. Blackout 19 26m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Start up short hand crack in overhang on L of cave to gain a ledge. Up the hucos directly to the lowest point of the diagonal roof. Up the R trending roof open book, the up the easy face on the R. 3. Papa sê Pant 18 26m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Scramble onto a ledge & then up a line of amazing hucos 2m L of Blackout. At the lowest point of the diagonal roof, break out, then up the ramp Blackout 36 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

37 La Douche This is the not so marvelous face slightly up stream & opposite the UFO Pinnacle. 1. Master Schnafler 19 Terence Trevaskis & Ruan Grundlingh April 2015 (8B&C) 2. Delicious Monster - 20 Terence Trevaskis & Craig Swartz Sept 2015 (8B&C) 3. Illusional Beginner 18 Terence Trevaskis & Patrick Brown (T) Up R facing open book under a small roof. Continue up to jagged R facing open book, through cubby hole & directly up. 4. Surender or Fight 18 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall Sept 2015 (8B&C) 5. Let s Douche This 19 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall (6B&C) Bolted by Morne van der Mescht. 6. Save Yourself 19 26m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up broken ramp below huge overhanging open book. Up the open book to belay in the bush above. 7. La Douche Douche 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 8. Rock Man-ehr 14 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Shit line that starts on slabs R of La Douche Douche. Trend R & up on easy ground to a tree belay. 1 2 La Douche Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

38 Apple Express This is directly below the train bridge on the PE side. Enter the municipal water affairs area; about 25m after the gate turn L onto a track. Follow this to behind some worker s housing. Park about 30m from the bridge. Walk down on the upstream side of the bridge. Move under the bridge to a scramble & then abseil from bridge struts. 30m abseil. Walk out over rough terrain in upstream & downstream directions. Abseil Point Apple Express 1. The Headless Children 22 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 2. Apple On Crack 24 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (6B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall. 3. The Last Command 25 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) 4. St Franco of van Stadens - 19 Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs (T) L trending diagonal open book. Derek bailed on loose rock before the anchor. 5. Puma 25 Bolted by Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs. Extended by Juan-Dray Marshall. 6. The Brute 24 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (11B&C) Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs Dec 2007 (3B&C) 7. Save Us 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester March 2008 (T) Up between the bolted lines. Zig-zag to the ledge below & L of the abseil point. 8. The Apprentice 19 Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs (7B&C) 9. Strange it May seem 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T&C) Up L trending L facing open book, trend L onto anchors of The Apprentice. 10. Towards Silence 18 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (11B&C) 11. Expressional 19 Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs (T) Up to R of Apple Express, into R trending break. Stop at the chains of Apple Express. 12. Come out & Play 17 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T&C) Up 3m R of Towards Silence, basically directly up through the most blank clean part, moving a bit L at the top to the chains of Expressional in the Dark! 17 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (T) Trad line up slightly bushy L facing open book. Climbs past a few bushes then past a L trending diagonal crack system. Franco finished this route in the dark. 14. The Fire Burns On 18 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up L trending L facing open book. About 9m up break out R onto a ledge up over easy ground, then over a bit of a neck & up the edge of the main face to belay above the abseil anchors. 1 Walkoff The following routes are about 60m upstream of Apple Express. 38 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

39 15. Closed Project 22-ish 16. Closed Project 24-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall Troll Park as for Apple Express. Walk over the train bridge. 15m after the end of the bridge find a vague path on the LH side. Follow the path directly under the bridge. At the slight scramble at the base of the 2 nd trestle (Troll Boulder), find a path down to Troll. 1. Cows Life 26 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle Dec 2008 (10B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall. 2. Troll 34 Adam & Miraslav Ondra (10B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall. Yes, that is correct. Adam Ondra opened this second go during the 2009 Rock & Road. This is before he went to Prophet s Cave, which he said was totally & absolutely awesome, before he cut his hand & wimpered. Troll Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

40 Trek Africa 100m before entering the water affairs gate turn L. Follow this road over the railway line in the direction of the gorge. Park under some gum trees at the edge of the gorge. This is about 350m downstream of the rail bridge. Find a path at the edge of the houses. Follow this down for about 90m to a steel cable which assist the decent. Scramble in an upstream direction Trek Africa to the crag. Routes recorded as you walk-in from the steel cable. 1. Savage Union 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Ramp to R or Frankie Doodle. 2. Solitude 17 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (5B&C) 3. The Life 18 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Vague crack system to L of Frankie Doodle. 4. Where the Sinners Go 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (8B&C) 5. Trek Africa 18 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (7B&C) 6. Are You Metal 16 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Broken stepped ramp to between the ears. 7. Mr Madman 15 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Indistinct easy break. 8. Ocean Cry 14 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 2006 (T) Indistinct easy ramp. 9. Stupid Mankind 14 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 2006 (T) Indistinct & easy ramble. 10. The Sage 19 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 2006 (T) Up a wondering line that moves above the overhanging cave, then back R to the top. 11. Closed Project 24 Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C) 12. Helldorado 26 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 2011 (5B&C) 13. Closed Project 27 Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C) 40 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

41 Flower Reserve At picnic area take path to Lookout. This is the most upstream path. Cut off L after 50m then down about 80m, the path runs under an easy looking crag. 1. Olive Branch 15 32m Derek & Caroline Marshall Up easy break on lower portion. Zigzag to find poor gear. Up ramp arête to belay from tree on top. 2. Reconciliation 14 36m Derek & Caroline Marshall Up easy looking stepped break, onto bottom of ramp arête. Traverse over ramp to find gear in overlap. Up to belay from tree on top. First Slabs Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

42 Woodridge School Rocks Set on the grounds of Woodridge Collage, the prestigious private school, School Rocks is the best beginner s crag in the Port Elizabeth area. Open Book is undoubtedly one of the best sport 19s on the PE circa. Access is strictly controlled. Woodridge has staunch security, locked gates, high electric fences & serious guards. Access is possible via the correct channels & with proper arrangements. Please do take any chances & just rock up, this approach will not work as Woodridge security will turn you away. For now please contact Derek Marshall info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za to make arrangements. Van Stadens Pass Security Gate/ Guard House Park School Rocks 1. Monkey Style 13 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars (T) Up the easy R facing open book. 2. Fideliter - 19 Derek Marshall & John Alexander (5B&C) 3. Matopos 19 Derek Marshall & John Alexander (5B&C) 4. Founders 20 Gordon Munro & Che Freese (6B&C) 5. Kohler 19 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (5B&C) 6. Alexander 19 Derek & Caroline Marshall (5B&C) 7. Bains - 14 Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit (T) R facing groove open book. 8. Crane - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (3B&C) 9. Ball - 16 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (3B&C) 10. Cadle s Hotel - 13 Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit (T) R facing groove open book. 11. Eric The Red 14 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (4B&C) 12. Týr - 16 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (4B&C) 42 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

43 School Rocks Faithfully 15 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Start 2m R of The Pin. Up R facing open book, directly up to R of tree. 14. The Pin 21 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 15. Veld n Vlei 23 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (7B&C) 16. Old Woodrigen 17 Derek & Caroline Marshall (4B&C) 17. No Regrets 16 Derek & Caroline Marshall (4B&C) 18. Castle Crack 16 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 03/05/1981 (T) Prominent fist/hand crack. 19. Open Book 19 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (7B&C) 20. Fortress 19 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 03/05/1981 (T) Prominent crack that splits into 3 near the top School Rocks 21. Dead Shot George 19 Bolted by Patrick Brown. 22. The Leap Mobilitate Vincere Eye of the Fire Storm 24 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 25. Spook 14 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (6B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Juan-Dray Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (5B&C) Derek & Caroline Marshall (5B&C) 43 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

44 The following routes are below & about 70m L of School Rocks. 26. Damasqua 19 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (4B&C) 27. Lichtenstein 18 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Startup R facing open book, through the tiny overhang then up the break. Top out to tree abseil. 28. Bully Lashing the Bully 19 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 29. Be Cruel To Your School 17 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall (4B&C) Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

45 Slayer Follow the Ho Chi Min Trail down to the river. About 150m downstream. 1. Closed Project 24-ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. P1 P2-2. The Bloody Reign of Slayer 23 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester P m (16B&C) P m (7B&C) 3. Decade of Aggression - 22 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown P m (15B&C) P m 13B&C) 4. Closed Project 24-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall. 5. Seasons in the Abyss 22 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis P m (15B&C) P m (15B&C) 6. You Against You 19 27m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (11B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 7. Raining Blood 20 27m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (16B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 45 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

46 Slayer P2 P2 P2 P Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

47 Raven Age Follow the Ho Chi Min Trail down to the river. Cross the river immediately & walk up the tributary kloof for 350m. Raven Age Cave tea spot Raven Age is a short ribbon of rock about 25m above the stream bed. 1. Eye Among the Blind 14 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) About 10m L of the most L sport line, up the most distinct trad line. Not too great. 2. The Darkness Will Rise 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (4B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 3. Salem s Fate 23 Derek Marshall & Gordon Munro (6B&C) 4. Closed Project 23-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall. 5. Angel in Disgrace 19 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 6. Closed Project 24-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall. 7. Uprising 19 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (5B&C) 8. Death March 20 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (4B&C) 9. My Revenge 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (5B&C) 10. The Merciful One Dark of the Day Promised Land I Am Back Chucky Trevaskis 20 Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (3B&C) Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (4B&C) Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (5B&C) Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (5B&C) 47 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall

48 Crossways Slab Best way to get there is via Crossways. Drive & then walk along the cycle path till you are close to the top. Abseil in. Crossways Slab F 12 AA 15 F Firebrand 12 Tyson Baars & John Alexander 2017 (T) From a ledge higher up, straight up the middle of the slab. AA Asking Alexander 15 John Alexander & Tyson Baars 2017 (T) Start on RH arête. Up to a halfway ledge. Move 1m L, use finger crack. 48 Updated 25/03/2019 Derek Marshall