1 Updated 18/08/2018 Derek Marshall

Transcription

1 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

2 LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or Mountain Club of South Africa. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! Port Elizabeth 0 Coombs Gorge 7 EL urban crags & boulderstoorberg Swartberg Lady's Slipper Amatolas 8 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwe 44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop Van Stadens Fort Fordyce 9 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn PE urban crags & boulders Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 5 Gamkaskloof Bouldering 4 Sleepy Hollow Stutterheim 4 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 9 Nguniland 4 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 0 Kouga Wildernes 4 Hangklip Groot Winterhoek Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route 9 Naga's Kloof Titzikama 0 Eagle Gorge Groot Rivier Momentum Gorge 4 Plett Crags Pinnacle Gorge East London Cockscomb 4 NSA 4 Grootbos & Kleinbos 5 Windmill Hole 5 Nivera 6 Buffalo River Baviaans 6 Grips 7 Kudu Kaya 8 Waterkloof Grahamstown 5 Alicedale 6 Howieson's Poort 7 Moodies 8 Bouldering 9 Thornkloof 5 49 R6 50 Ladismith N Oudtshoorn Uniondale Willowmore R6 4 N9 8 0 Steytlerville R9 R 9 Plettenberg Bay Eastern Cape Climbing Venues 5 Nieu Bathesda Graff-Reinet Patensie Middelburg N0 Cradock R75 6 Hankey Uitenhage 4 5 Jeffreys Bay Tarkastud 4 4 Stutterheim 9 Hogsback 40 8 R6 King Williams Town Fort Beaufort N Alicedale R East London Port Elizabeth Aliwal North Queenstown Grahamstown N 4 N6 Mthatha N Port St Johns Coffee Bay 46 More route guides can be found on NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. Nobody has a lawyer, normally a lawyer has us by the short & curlies. But I do know this lawyer, he s a bit of a dick, but apparently, he normally wins. Friends let s not get to see how much of a dick he really is. You are more than welcome to print out or this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. Or link your web page to our web page so the most up-to-date info can be communicated. Many routes have been added or recorded for the first time in the last 0 years. Much detail was missing from the resources publically available. This guide is an attempt to consolidate this info & available to everyone. As this is a web based guide it can be considered a work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to info@easterncapecrockclimbing.co.za All information will be greatly appreciated. Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

3 General: Featured, cracked dolerite set on a shale band. Morgans is the largest sea cliff climbing area in South Africa. Morgans is more of a traditional climbing area. There are 66 trad lines & 7 sport lines. There is limited potential for new routes. Directions: Take the N towards Umtata. Turn right onto the R49 to Kei Mouth. Turn R about 0km before Kei Mouth. Follow the signs to Morgan Bay. On reaching Morgan Bay turn Umtata right at the junction towards the Morgan Bay Hotel. Stop N EL at The Deck for a cold beer or two. Then past the hotel along the beach front, over the small bridge and up the hill. The crags are through the gates on the sea side of R49 the road. Double Mouth Campsite is about km down this road. Morgan Bay is 90km from East London. The road has been tarred. Sccess: Is unrestricted. This is district council land under the control of Nature Conservation. Morgan Bay Kei Mouth History: There has been a lot of climbing on the Morgan Haga Haga Bay cliffs in the last 40 years. There are few fixed anchors and limited signs of climbing, this leads people to think they are the first ascensionists. Dave and Barbara Freer opened many of the prominent trad lines & wrote the first route descriptions. The MCSA KZN Section held rock meets here in the 80s and Rhodes University (EL and Grahamstown) have climbed here on occasions. Apologies to all first ascensionists whose routes are not correctly recorded. Thanks to Gavin Peckham for motivating the writing of the new route guide. Accommodation: Check out for more options: Morgan Bay Hotel: Has The Deck, a really cool restaurant with good food & cold beer. They also provide a variety of accommodation. Prices are reasonable. This is a serious option if the family is coming with. They also run the information service & arrange alternative entertainment. The hotel has a bottle store! Contact: , , , info@morganbayhotel.co.za, morganbayhotel.co.za Double Mouth Nature Reserve: has a nice campsite on the beach and is quite cheap. Look out for fossils on the wave cut flat rock in front of the campsite. Bring your own drinking water to be safe. Lots of grass & shade. Will be crowded/full in December & over Easter. Booking only necessary in peak season. Tel Morgan Bay Camp Site: Camping next to the lagoon & close to the beach. Lovely for kids. Book at the Morgan Bay Hotel. Yellowwood Campsite: Good camping in a very natural environment, lots of trees & a bird lover s paradise. They also have cottages & a backpackers. Yellowwood is slightly eccentric. Yeah there s hippies in the forest (see hazards). Yellowwood has a lovely outdoor coffee shop & restaurant with great pizza during the high season. They have a full bar, with Emerald Beers (on tap & in bottles). Yes, those are the kiff craft beers from Cintza. A highly recommended stay. Check out their page or FB Contact Sean or Debbie Tel: & info@yellowwoodforest.co.za Midford Lodge: This is the closest hotel to the crags. Has great food & a pub. Tel or Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

4 Activities: Morgan Bay is a holiday town with a great beach for swimming and surfing. There is excellent bass fishing in the local dam. The estuary contains a good variety of species and the sea shore fishing is excellent. Apart from a variety of walks, shell collecting, bird watching and great photographic opportunities, there is, of course, a great variety of routes available to rock climbers. This is the only place in South Africa with established sea cliff climbing where the waves may be crashing into the rocks beneath your feet and dolphins may be frolicking in the waves below you as you negotiate your way up the rock faces above. The Top Shop is the only general shop in Morgan Bay. It has basic groceries, a bottle store, post office & ATM. There are shops in Kei Mouth which is not far away. Star Ratings Good route at this crag. Good route in the area. Classic route in this province. Security: Not a big issue. Take the usual precautions. Keep your valuables out of site. Don t leave valuables in the tents. Police Tel: 0 Medical: Ambulance service 077 or Kei Mouth clinic: No star 4 4 T Reasonable to bollocks. Abbreviations & Symbols Bolted sport route Project / In progress Trad route, natural gear Environmental Issues: The area where the cliffs are is not currently officially protected. Don t get caught trashing the place by the locals.. Resist the urge to test your 4x4 stay on the track and in the parking areas. Vehicles are destroying the grass land on top. The area on top should have zero access to vehicles.. Please pick up any litter found & bring it out. Yes we know it wasn t you, but there is nobody else who will pick it up.. Resist the urge to throw stones or role rocks. 4. Taking a dump: Try to use civilized toilets at the hotel or campsite. When you simply have to go for a bos kak, please head down to the wave cut platforms where the waves can wash it away. Or crap on a flat stone and throw it into the sea. Making sure there are no fishermen below. 5. People talking about building on the cliff top are to be pushed off forthwith! 6B C P RB Number of bolts Chains or top anchors Chains or top anchors Piton Removable bolt Afternoon Shade Morning Shade Shade all day Sun all day Dappled shade all day Safety: Remember climbing is always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. Just go home before the risks become too high. Can be climbed in wet weather. Use a helmet. There are lots of loose rocks.. Don t use the bolts. All the bolts are old & dangerous. Morgan Bay is a traditional climbing area. Costal environments like Morgan Bay are highly corrosive & don t suit sport climbing. Bolts should be treated as suspect soon after placing them. Stainless steel in these conditions is subject to stress corrosion cracking. Google it!. Wash your gear in fresh water as soon as you get home. Aluminium just does not last in salt environments. Especially after climbing on the wave cut platforms. Don t wash them at DM or MB campsites as even the tap water is fairly salty. 4. Walk-ins on grass is very slippery when wet. 5. Watch the tides when choosing an area. Especially on the wave cut platforms. Look out for large waves. They do happen every day. 6. Always pick up your wife before going to the pub at the hotel. One beer always takes longer than expected. 7. Make sure you pitch your tent before going to the pub. 8. Watch out for puffadders in the grass, cracks everywhere. There are quite a lot of these fiendish critters in Morgan Bay 9. Bring your own drinking water if staying at Double Mouth. The tap water is from the river & is undrinkable. The tank water is often not that clean, monkeys shit on the roof. 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

5 0. Hippies, beware of hippies. Hippies wear jack boots. They are the new Fascists. They hug trees & bunnies, but spank down on poor rednecks. Best Season: Morgan Bay offers all year round climbing. Winter has low rain fall & is very mild, but cold brings out the moisture from within the rock & there is quite a lot of condensation. In summer its hot, but it is possible to move to a shaded crags & sea breezes cool everything down to acceptable levels. There is more rain in summer, but the crags dry very quickly. Best possible conditions are: westerly berg wind with equinox low tide. When all these conditions are in a line it s time to get down to sea level stuff. To N Yellowwood Forest Campsite Hotel, pub, resturant st Headland nd Headland rd Headland 4th Headland 5th Headland Double Mouth Campsite 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

6 Contents Page Page Page st Headland Map 7 Storm Bringer 6 Dunkirk 6 Bay Watch 8 Bionic Man 7 Carnival is Over 65 Angels Wall 9 4th Headland Map 8 Strandlooper Buttress 67 Prometheus 0 Rock Rabbit Wall 9 Needle Wall 68 Lust or Love Ticket to Ride 40 Whale Bone 7 California Dreaming Blue Jay Buttress 4 Khoekoen Ledge 7 Promised Land 5 House of Cards 45 The Tusk 75 MI5 9 Tombstone Gulch 47 Bay of Plenty 76 Cassinga 0 Graveyard 49 Slippery When Wet 77 nd & rd Headland Map Pineapple Ridge 50 Made to Fit 78 Afghanistan Buccaneer s Cove 5 Pivotal Motion 79 Kindergarten 6 5th Headland Map 5 Booze Cruise 79 Memorial Slab 7 Diffusion 54 Just a Breeze 80 Lands End 9 Eager Beaver 55 Smooth Operator 80 The Platform 0 Linear Ledge 56 Outlaw Crag 8 Catfish Cove Strip Tease 59 Black Rock 8 Castaways 5 Sweet Surrender 6 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

7 st Headland This is the headland closest to Morgan Bay village. Park on the L just after the concrete weir or follow the track through the first gate. Track from st gate Cassinga To DM From MB MI5 S E S 4 5. E Lust or Love Prometheus Parking Small Sea Stack Angels Wall Bay Watch WAVE CUT PLATFORM S 4 5. E Promised Land S E California Dreaming Small Stack S E Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

8 Bay Watch Park just after the small bridge. Follow the fisherman path along rocky beach. Bay Watch is the first low crag.. Nein Allen Luck July 00 (solo) 7m R of chimney. Up easy line.. Delta Force Allen Luck July 00 (solo) 4m R of chimney. Up good R trending crack.. Windmill Windmill Derek Marshall July 00 (solo) m R of chimney. Climb easy blocks. 0 Bay Watch No Hassle - Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) m R of chimney. Climb up to small ledge and up short L facing corner 5. Eagle Fly Free - Derek Marshall 00 July (solo) Start just R of chimney. Move R onto ledge. Very arbitrary route 6. Time Marches Derek Marshall 00 July (solo) Climb the chimney. 7. POTENTIAL 8. Silicone Delight 5 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb crack m R of LH end of face. 9. Revolution Now Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb the blocky R trending line that starts L and exits up L facing V-groove at top 0. Bambino 0 Gavin Peckham 07/07/00 (solo) Climb the line of short recesses immediately L of arête at LH end of face. 0 8 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

9 Angels Wall About 0 meters along the rocky beach in the DM direction, is a wave cut platform. Only to be climbed at low tide on a very calm day.. Pixie 0 Gavin Peckham 05/0/00 (S) 4m R of Cupid.. Cupid 9 Gavin Peckham 9//00 (S) Start at bottom RH corner of small face to R of On the Outside Looking In and climb the obvious L trending, stepped line on excellent rock.. On the Outside Looking In 0 Gavin Peckham 9//00 (S) Stem op outside of chimney. 4. Gung Ho Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 9//00 (T) Climb the pile of suspect blocks R of Water Baby. 5. Water Baby 8 Derek Marshall 9//00 (S) Chimney m R of Where Angels Fear to Tread. 6. Where Angles Fear To Tread 8 Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes April 98 (T) Up crack in middle of face. Move m R into excellent vertical crack line. 7. Even Demons Tremble 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 9//00 (T) Start as for Where Angels Fear to Tread. Continue straight up V-shaped recess to top. 8. Role over Rover 7 Gavin Peckham & Bugs Spouse 05/0/00 (T) m L of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Up to sloping block in recess. Step L onto face, then up. 9. Potential Fallen Angel 6 Bugs Spouse, Gavin Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 05/0/00 (T) m L of Where Angels Fear to Tread. Climb the easy obvious line.. Frigidaire Chimney Dave & Barbara Freer July 98 (T) This route has not been located yet. Original RD reads: Above the shelf just after the Angel Wall shelf. Reached by abseiling from the top of a grungy gully. Climb a straight chimney starting m off the deck (this is grade 8). The climb is infested with sand worms, wetness and loose flakes. About m long. Only recorded to stop any one from wasting their time doing it again. A heap of shit ? Angels Wall 9 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

10 Prometheus Park just after small bridge. Follow fisherman path along rocky beach. Take the path over Baywatch and Angels Wall. Prometheus is on the land ward side of the path, between Baywatch and Angels Wall.. Mercury Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/004 (T) Climb the very short and easy line on boulder to the MB side of Prometheus, using rails and the arête. Cute!. Icarus Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 9//00 (T) The line immediately R of Prometheus.. Prometheus 7 Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes March 98 (T) Start-up slight over hang, straight up face. 4. Pegasus 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Climb the LH side of Y shaped crack. Follow L trending cracks. Prometheus Prometheus 4 0 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

11 Lust or Love Continue along the path past Prometheus. Lust or Love is on a grassy ledge just above some rocks forming a cave over a dangerous chimney.. Shagadelic Lust or Love Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) m L of RH end of crag. Up and L.. Please! Please Me! Allen Luck and Derek Marshall July 00 (T) m L of Shagadelic. Up and trending R.. Keeping Abreast 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 9//00 (T) m L of Tease Me! Please Me! Climb up to large ledge then up L facing corner. 4. Tease Me, Please Me Allen Luck and Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Start around the blunt arête to L of Keeping Abreast. Move R across a ledge to a L facing open book. 5. One Up One Down 4 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Open book, chimney. 6. Liquor is Quicker Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 9//00 (T) Start m L of One Up One Down. Up the short face on flaky jugs to a large ledge. Then up short bulging face. 7. Lady Star Light 5 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb the thin line between the open book and arête. Gain the ledge. Climb the last short face close to the arête (to L of the short L facing corner) 8. Candy s Dandy 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb the open book. 9. Give it to Me Baby Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Start m L of Candy s Dandy. Climb the ramp; use the same exit as Candy s Dandy. 0. Self-Control Bruce Tomalin & Gavin Peckham 9//04 (T) Balance up the thin ramp parallel to and just above the Give It To Me Baby ramp. Top out just left of the Give It To Me Baby exit. Self-control is required to avoid stepping down onto the big Give It To Me Baby ramp.. Climax 9 Gavin Raubenheimer & Anthony van Tonder 07/0/00 (T) Start-up same off width as Don't Believe Her. Rail R for 4m to reach under clings.. Don't Believe Her 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb the off width on the far L. Traverse L near the top. Lust or Love Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

12 California Dreaming Take the first gate to the left traveling from Morgan Bay to Double Mouth. The track to the left leads to parking on top of the First Headland. Find the steep passage (easy chimney). The walk-in chimney looks worse than it is. California Dreaming Scramble Chimney S 4 5. E Semi-free Standing Stack Small Stack S E Occupied Territories Wave-cut Platform Shark Fin Stack These routes are on the short stack at the bottom of the walk-in chimney.. Apple Crumble - 9 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall Jan 00 (T) Loose, blocky line to the right of So Few are so Free. Avoid!. So Few are so Free 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Jan 00 (T) Perfect crack in centre of seaward face. This is the face on the DM side of the small stack. California Dreaming 8. Stolen Thunder 7 Ian Schwartz & Stuart Middlemiss April 99 (T) Climb the middle of the steeper slab immediately R of descent path. 4. Nowhere Man 5 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes (T) Start-up rotten crack/ledges in the centre of the recess that separates the two smooth faces. Up for 8m till it begins to overhang. Step across to the RH crack. Finish up the RH crack. 5. Penny Lane Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes (T) Start in big recess and climb the crack L of Nowhere Man. Use the R wall and then the L half way up. Break L and finish on a series of ledges. 6. California Dreaming 5 Dave & Barbara Freer July 98 (T) Climb the double crack system on the LH side of the second face. The LH crack curves to the R for about 4m before becoming a V-shaped groove. Start-up RH crack. 5m up move into LH crack and up the V-shaped groove. Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

13 7. Sleeping with the Dog 0 Stuart Middlemiss & Ian Schwartz April 99 (T) Climb the prominent fist crack at LH edge of LH wall. 8. Systematic Selection 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 0/07/005 (T) m R of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride, up an off width through a small roof. Continue up California Dreaming 5 beyond this to a belay where the grass starts. The following routes are on the small semi-free stander on the DM side of the narrow ledge. All are a bit short. 9. Paradise Road 8 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 9//00 (T) Prominent crack on the semi-free stander. 0. Before The Seventh War 8 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Open book m L of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. Through the roof & up the crack on the sea face.. PraHAA 0m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 0/07/005 (T) L trending diagonal crack. Loose and shit.. Surfer Girl 5 9m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Crack just L of L trending diagonal crack.. Seal Wolf 9m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 0/07/005 (T) Up easy crack Beach Bums 5 9m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Easy slab steps. 5. Beach Boys California Dreaming m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Easy slab steps around the corner. Walk-in California Dreaming The following routes are reached by abseiling from a large boulder at the base of Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. Abseil onto a large ledge about 0m below. The wave cut platform below, about 4m above sea level, is The Occupied Territories, which is part of The Promised Land. Potential? Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

14 6. Surfing USA 8 0m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Crack system with large V ledge just L of chimney on the DM side of large ledge. 7. No Smoke No Fire 5 0m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/07/005 (T) Chimney on DM side of large ledge. 8. This Too Shall Pass 9 8m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 0/07/005 (T) Crack system up blocky steps. 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

15 Promised Land The first band of rock is about 0m below the car park on the First Headland. The routes are short (about 0m on average), but the rock quality is stunning and is rarely affected by tides. Work your way down using a series of breaks in the rock bands. Promised Land Start of Path S E Parking S E California Dreaming Wave-cut Platform S 4 5. E High Point Between Wave-cut Platforms S E Wave-cut Platform. Hey There 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) Slab sea ward face of small buttress 8m on the DM side of prominent V-crack with roof, The Glory.. Thou Shalt Not Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) Short easy crack.. The Glory 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) Climb the large V-crack past the roof Promised Land 4. Shoulder to Cry On 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Off width into chimney. 5. Manna Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) Up blocky face and through roof. 6. Wake Up 4 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) This is a perfect easy crack. 7. Promised Land 7 Garvin Jacobs & William Lesley 0/07/005 (T) 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

16 Up prominent V open book, through the cap roof. There are a series of large ledges close to the sea. They are separated by high ground, which from the sea are actually a series of chimneys. The next routes are on the DM side of the high ground. This is a spring low tide ledge. Do not bother at high tide or in rough seas. Routes are recorded from the most DM end of the large ledge, back towards the high point. 8. Mossad 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) LH off-width. 9. Moses 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Climb the funny crack system that at first is hidden. Start in the L side. Move a bit R about 9m up. 0. Mother of Moses 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Up the flaring V-shaped chimney.. Heroes Don t Cry 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 06/04/00 (T) Up the obvious crack system.. Hail of Rocks 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Hand crack into off width.. Escape or Die 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/04/00 (T) Climb the thin crack up steps. 4. Hail of Metal Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Open book chimney. 5. Broken Promises 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 07/04/00 (T) Broken stepped, blocky ramp. 6. The Point of No Return Craig Bester & Allen Luck 07/04/00 (T) Up stepped easy face. Promised Land 8 9/ Promised Land 6 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

17 The following routes are round the corner on the walk in, towards the high point. 7. My Father s House 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Flaky start to L of pool. Curving crack into large off width with no gear. 8. Project R trending crack to the R. Just too wet to start with. Promised Land An abseil from My Father s House to a ledge below will enable you to find the awesome Parting of the Sea. Take a costume, a beach towel and a water proof rack. The first ascensionists were chased off this ledge and completely soaked before and during the climb. Fun! Absolutely! Parting of the Seas 9 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 06/04/00 (T) Abseil down green seaweed face to wave cut platform. Climb the big chimney on the MB side of the ledge, till you reach the high point. Only in extremely low tide with a strong berg wind. This area is found on the MB side of the high ground. Some tricky scrambling leads to ledges just above the sea. Good climbing at low tide and during a berg wind. Routes are recorded starting with those closest to DM and ending with those closest to MB. Promised Land 0. Secret Promise Craig Bester & Allen Luck 07/04/00 (T) Climb the short easy line on the LH side of the slab, starting at the top of the high ground.. Deuteronomy 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 07/04/00 (T) Start in the chimney below the slab. Then up on the RH side of the easy slab.. The Exodus 8 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 07/04/00 (T) The line to the R of Deuteronomy.. The Commandment 7 40m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 07/04/00 (T) Start in an open book. Becomes loose, slimy and scary higher up. The following routes are about 0m towards MB and down some scary scrambles. 4. Duke of York 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 4//00 (T) Climb the L facing corner to a ledge at the base of a chimney. Up the short face on the R using round holds, to gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 5. Yom Kippur 4 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 4//00 (T) Start just R of Duke of York. Climb up to reach the start of a V-shaped recess formed by a long flake. Up this to a short open book to a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 6. His Bal as - 6 A Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 4//00 (T) Start just R of Yom Kippur. Up two finger cracks to a sloping ledge and a short corner crack. Will have to pull on gear if wet. Gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

18 7. Mission Motherland 7 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 4//00 (T) Start a few meters R of Hisbal as. Up an on balance open book to below a roof. Move L below roof. Easiest line to gain a ledge. Up another short face to a belay ledge. 8. Winter Heart s Guild 9 8m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 0 July 005 (T) Slightly to the MB side of Mission Motherland. Up an easy start to the R of the slab arête. Break L onto the arête. Up into a small open book. Top out trending L. 9. Tempting Moses 7 5m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 0 July 005 (T) Up an easy R facing open book m R of Winter Heart s Guild. Onto a large ledge. Up a loose off width open book behind the face. The route ends in the California Dreaming. 0. Green Death 4 5m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 0 July 005 (T) 4m R of Winter Heart s Guild, up tricky slippery ramp to the big ledge. Across the ledge to the low point in the ledge path of California Dreaming. Walk out using the steep scramble chimney or abseil from the point below Storm Trooper of the Dark Ride. See California Dreaming. 8 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

19 MI5 This small but pleasant crag can be found above Cassinga Wall, but further out towards the sea. Park on the First Headland. Look for a steep walk down. Face is better seen from the Second Headland. Routes are listed land ward to sea ward.. Spear Head MI5 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Jan 00 From the walk-in, Traverse under the crag to a diagonal crack on the LH side. Up this.. Special Branch Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 LH perfect crack.. C I Arse 6 Matt Long & Derek Marshall July 00 Perfect crack L of open book Top Secret 7 Allen Luck & Matt Long July 00 Open book. 9 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

20 Cassinga Cassinga is the wall, which starts at sea level, on the MB side of the gully which separates the First and Second Headlands. Park either of the two headlands. Walk down the grassy gully to the rocky beach.. The Endless Steppes 0 Derek Marshall Aug 00 (T) Very short easy line about 5m L of Agent Orange.. Savannah Derek Marshall Aug 00 (T) Another short easy line. m L of Agent Orange.. Fear and Flight Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 07/07/00(T) Start m L of Cassinga. Crack starting L and running across Agent Orange, forming an X. 4. Agent Orange Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 07/07/00 (T) Start m L of Cassinga. This is the crack which starts on the R and runs diagonally L. Cassinga Cassinga 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Nov 00 (T) This is the prominent line that follows the overhanging, stepped, open book. 6. Golden Eye 9 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 07/07/00 (T) Diagonal RH crack. Easy but, quite nice. 7. Crazy Mary Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 07/07/00 (T) Triangular cracks. Traverse R to slab. Top out. 8. Stalingrad 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 07/07/00 (T) On balance open book. 5m 9. Spetznat 5 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 07/07/00 (T) Crack into stepped chimney. 5m 0. Siberia 5 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 07/07/00 (T) Crack just R of Siberia. Traverse to gain thin cracks L of slab. 5m. Buffalo Bastards 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 07/07/00 (T) Climb the line just L of the prominent chimney.. We Didn t Start the Fire 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/07/00 (T) Up the prominent chimney. 0 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

21 This is the tiny sea stack between the First and Second Headlands. The routes are short but, sort of sweet. Low tide & calm seas is a must..to say the least. Gavin Peckham was lining these tiny lines up for himself. Not sure what it is about free-standing stacks its very phallic. Luckily we managed to snake him this time.. Evolution Crack 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Aug 00 (T) This is the crack on the land ward side of the stack. It is wet and can only be done on an extreme low and during a berg wind. If you must take extra chalk. 4. Stack Attack 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall Aug 00 (T) Step onto the side of the stack from the DM side. A better option than Evolution Crack. Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

22 nd Headland Traveling from Morgan Bay turn left through the first gate. Follow the track along the fence. Park at the end of the fence. This is the Second Headland. Bionic Man Castaways From MB Parking Afganistan Memorial Slabs Kindergarten Storm Bringer Catfish Cove Platform Land's End Small Sea Stack rd Headland nd Headland Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

23 Afghanistan This area can be reached by parking above the gully between the First and Second Headlands. Walk down the gully. The routes are to be found on mess of rock on the DM side of the gully /8 6 Afganistan. From Russia with Love 4 Craig Bester and Allen Luck July 00 (T) This is the first conceivable route on the DM side as you walk down the grassy gully. It s very stepped and broken. The next two routes are slightly further down the gully and more towards DM.. Rasputin 7 Allen Luck & Matt Long July 00 (T) Climb the big, broken and loose open book.. Loose Rock 0 5 Matt Long & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Up broken steps into crack, R of roof. Matt threw more crap off this route than the entire US forces dropped in Afghanistan in the same year. Fucking Americans! The next sector is sea ward of the scramble to gain the ramp which leads to the upper part of Afghanistan. The routes end at the top of the ramp. 4. Black Adder 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 07/07/00 (T) This route starts a few meters L of the scramble to the upper sector. Climb the off-width L trending crack till it merges with The Kremlin. Up easy slabs to the top. 5. The Kremlin 7 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 07/07/00 (T) Start about 5m L of Black Adder climb the vertical crack till you are under the block. Step R and climb the easy slabs to the top. 6. Russian Roulette 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/07/00 (T) Climb the easy stepped off width about 5m L of The Kremlin. 7. MIG 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/07/00 (T) About 5m L of Russian Roulette. Climb the RH crack in the L facing corner. Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

24 8. Nikita 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/07/00 (T) Climb the LH crack of the L facing corner. 9. Rag Head Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 07/07/00 (T) Start close to where the wave cut platform begins. Up easy stepped line to ledge walk off to the R. 0. Goose Step 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 07/07/00 (T) Starting at the water line Traverse L to a good easy crack. Up stepped line. Moving L near the top. The following routes are set on a level above. Scramble up a ramp to a bit of 8 7 Afganistan grass. There is a fallen rock on the sea ward side which forms a small dark cave. The commercial abseil runs down largest buttress, with a chimney on the R. The 9 routes are listed from the bottom of the ramp Left wards.. Blood Flower 6 6m Derek Marshall & Moritz Hirt 8/0/07 (T) 7/8 Up just L of blunt curved arete, step L over ledges, across a gully, then up onto ramp & up a small headwall. Step L across a ledge & up R trending small open book.. Rolling Stones Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) 5 4 Easy loose crack.. Rambo-who? 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Chossy loose chimney. 4. Buckets Full of Bastards 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Start in crack to R of chimney. Onto ledge. Up face onto bouldery ledge. Hard move to top out. Last move is about The Mongrel 8 9m Terence Trevaskis & Derek Juracek 8/0/07 (T) Start in wide crack that splits into twin cracks, onto ledge, stepping L past ramp off width to a short face. Climb the short face. 6. Panty-less 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Chimney to R of abseil point. 7. A Scenery of Loss 5 8m Derek Marshall & Moritz Hirt 8/0/07 (T) Up cracks to ledge below the arête. Up LHS of arête. 8. The Afghans 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Up short face L of commercial abseil point. Onto ramp, then move L into off width chimney. Through blocky roof to abseil point. 9. ARC Rising 7 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 8/0/07 (T) Up short arête, step R & up face. Stay R of LH arête. 0. Anarchy at the Crags 4 9m Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 8/0/07 (T) Up easy steps to gain RH crack over large ledge. Up crack system above.. Hell in a Bucket 5 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Aug 00 (T) If you are into dirt, loose rock and grass.this is for you. Total crap!. Breakfast with the Taliban 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck Aug 00 (T) Diagonal crack past small roof. Just to the R of the small cave. The following route is on a small face which is set below the rest of the routes and slightly sea ward.. Illusion and Fear 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T&RB) Find the small face. Climb the wide open book recess. Up this to the top. Thin gear! This route starts round the corner & above the block Illusion and Fear climbs. 4. The Cry Of Silence 7 m Derek Marshall & Moritz Hirt 8/0/07 (T) 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

25 Up below treacherous looking huge flakes on great jugs. Up blank face above. This area is situated towards the sea & can be reached by going slightly down and around the small face which is home to Illusion and Fear. Alternately: park on the Second Headland and descend as for Lands End. Over Board is just past Lands End on the MB side. Routes are recorded L to R. 5. Sleuth 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Chimney. 6. Shaken Not Stirred 0 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Up nice looking crack that trends diagonally L half way up. 7. Re-animator 7 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Juracek 8/0/07 (T) Up cracked ramp. 8. Money Penny 6 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Up the arête. Move L near the top. Belay off high point to L. 9. Rocky Track Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Very easy blocky route. 0. Jungle Bunny - 7 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Juracek 8/0/07 (T) Start in off width to the R. Step L onto ramp. Up middle of the ramp.. Iron Will - 6 5m Derek Marshall & Dirk van der Walt 8/0/07 (T) Start up finger crack, onto ledge. Step L on ledge to LH arête. Up arête edge.. Rope Grab 6 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 8/0/07 (T) Up easy L facing open book Afganistan 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

26 Kindergarten This small crag is a few meters below the car park on the nd Headland. All the routes are high-ball or boulder routes. Routes are listed L to R. We all know Gavin sand bagged these routes so add a grade or to get the true grade. Kindergarten. Miss Muffet 9 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Up the wide R trending crack.. Rock On Top 0 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Up the chimney capped by a large chock.. Wydsbeen 0 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Up the flaring chimney to the R of Rock On Top. 4. Jack Horner s Corner - 0 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Up the sloping corner. 5. Rocking Horse 9 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Up the crack. 6. Simple Simon 9 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Climb the crack with the wedged boulders. 7. Humpty Dumpty 0 Gavin Peckham 6//00 (S) Climb the Lay back. 8. Bo Peep 8 Gavin Peckham 0//04 (S) This is the L tending, blocky line about m R of Humpty Dumpty and just L of the small arête at the RH end of the crag. 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

27 Memorial Slab Situated directly below two memorial stones at the end of the track. This awesome slab may need new bolts to be led safely.. Uit Die Blou van Ons Se Hemel Hein & Cillier Stapelberg Dec 00 (4B&C) These bolts are old & dangerous.. Marching On 0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 9/0/07 (B&T) Prominent crack in middle of face, past a single bolt in to unprotect able face above.. Our Victory 6 Derek Marshall & Dirk van der Walt 9/0/07 (T) Start in Marching On prominent crack. 4m up step L onto rounded ramp, traverse L, up below small overhang & L into L facing open book. Don t clip any bolts. 4. Uit Diepte van Ons See 9 Cillier & Hein Stapelberg Dec 00 (5B&C) These bolts are old & dangerous. 5. Waar Die Kraanz Sal Andword Gee 0 Garvin Jacobs & William Lesley 004 (4B&C) These bolts are old & dangerous. Direct start without bridging is -ish Memorial Slab Captain Morgan 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Start in wide chimney. Move onto land ward ramp and top out. 7. Enjoy the Silence 7 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 9/0/07 (T) Start in middle of featured face, move R onto arête & up the arête. Break out R of the arête below the boulder on top. Over easy ground to the top. 8. Trip The Darkness 4 Derek Marshall & Moritz Hirt 9/0/07 (T) Up RH crack, break out R onto the face at overhang. Up using the LH arête, then over easy ground to the top. 9. Masekane Man 6 Tyson Baars & Terence Trevaskis 9/0/07 (T) Up LH crack, onto ledge & over easy ground to the top. 0. Swamped 5 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 9/0/07 (T) Up blunt arête, on ledge step L onto blocky ridge.. Stone Crusher - 5 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 9/0/07 (T) Up L trending blocky crack.. Eat my Vag - 4 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 9/0/07 (T) Short L trending blocky break.. Shagadelic Nicole - 6 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 9/0/07 (T) Up blocky ramp on rails. 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

28 4. Puffadder Crack Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) R facing blocky open book. The puff adder who lives on the top of the crag had fun scaring the crap out of Noodles. 5. Marriage Monster 6 Terence Trevaskis, Derek Marshall & Dirk van der Walt 9/0/07 (T) Up rounded cheeks, then directly up middle of face. 6. Seeking the Serpent 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Up steps into nice fist crack. Over ledge directly, up prominent crack. 7. Slithering Up 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Up L facing small open book into prominent hand crack. 8. Slut Crack 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Short off with & chimney crack. 8 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

29 Land s End This rather short crag hosts a number of fine easy routes. Ideal for beginners learning to lead trad. Park at the end of the track on the nd Headland. Walk down the ridge, turning R before walking off the edge. The path L leads seaward to Lands End. Lands End Paying Dues 4 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 9//06 (T) Up the short obvious break on LH side. Under the Blade 7 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 9//06 (T) Up the thinly protected slab, into R trending diagonal crack & through the break in the small roof.. African Star 4 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Climb the crack L of the recess, which has the large dangerous block. 4. Keep the Faith - 8 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 9//06 (T) Up the thinly protected slab. Gear is marginal. 5. Treason 4 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Up the L side of large recess. The block is dangerous! Through the roof to the L. 6. So Long Mary Ann - 4 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Up the R side of large recess. The block is dangerous! 7. Fear of God - 7 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 9//06 (T) Up the thinly protected slab. Gear is marginal. 8. My Eye On You 4 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Climb the obvious large crack. 9. Not All There 5 Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer 00 (T) Start between My I On U & Wind Blast. Climb the obvious but thin line that tends slightly R. 0. Wind Blast 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Start on the R. Up the L trending diagonal crack.. Windgap 0 Kendyl Kunhardt & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Climb the easy recess on the R.. Blown Away - Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 8/0/07 (T) Up the slab arête. 9 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

30 The Platform From Lands End, walk seaward to a very steep grassy gully which runs down the DM side of the headland to the wave cut platform. This is the broken face on the land ward side of the steep walk in. Routes are listed from DM to MB. The Platform Selfish Prick 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Climb the extremely short line 5m L of Ugly.. Quattro Drive 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Climb the nice-looking easy ramp line m L of Ugly.. Black Avo Yum! 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Climb the awful loose ramps to gain the awful loose off width. 4. Ugly 4 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Climb the gully On the DM side of Godzilla Wall. 5. Still Is Was 5 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Climb the most L easy recess on the sea ward face. Onto large ledge. 6. Green Goblin Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Climb the easy recess 4,5m L of Godzilla. Gain the ledge. Over the ledge climb the loose off width to a belay point. 7. Jurassic Fart 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Start 4m L of Godzilla. Move to the L to gain the ledge. Over the ledge climb the loose off width to a belay point. 8. Father of Woe 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Climb the crack directly below the pock marked face. Through the pocked face. 9. Apprentizorious 5 Allen Luck & a different apprentice 0/0/004 (T) Start just L of Godzilla. Up series of steps to the L. Gain the large ledge. Climb the L side to reach the top of the face. 0. Godzilla 7 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Climb the LH off width. Up the Chimney.. Donnersaurus- 7 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Climb the RH off width. Up the chimney.. Feels so Good 5 Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham 05/0/00 (T) Start in the gully near the center of the wrinkly face, directly below the main, vertical crack line that splits the upper half of the face. Follow this vertical crack to the top.. Avo Ants 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/004 (T) Climb the open book. Move R at the small roof. Up short open book to the top. 0 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

31 4. Godzilla Dung Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Climb the easy stepped diagonal just L of Avo Ants. This sector is on the MB side of the steep grassy gully used to access The Platform. 5. Marriage Potential 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/004 (T) The first tiny route. Climb the off width, into lay back. Look out for two loose blocks. Sweet! 6. Potential Vasectomy Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Climb the short easy crack m L of notched arête. 7. Skriek Vir Niks Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Climb the satanic chimney. Easily protected with one No. 6 & two No.5 Friends, as well as two No. 4 Big Bros. 8. Once in a Lifetime 7 Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham 05/0/00 (T) Start,5m R of Skriek Vir Niks, in a recess below a roof which undercuts the RH arete. Exit roof to the R. Keep just R of arête to the top. Good gear all the way. 9. Tracking Matt 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Start 5m R of Once in a Lifetime arête. Climb the L most, loose crack. Easily protected with one No. 6 Friend and both 4 & 5 Big Bros. The Platform This sector is round the corner in the MB direction, on a wave cut platform. 0. Project. Howzat 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 6//00 (T) 5m L of diamond shaped block. Climb the RH open book of rectangular recess onto grassy ledge.. The Rise and the Fall 4 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 6//00 (T) m R of Howzat. Climb the on either side of thin vertical finger crack.. Behind Enemy Lines 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 6//00 (T) Start m L of diamond shaped block. Layback up to the crack that runs up the back of an undercut, L-facing corner and continue up to the ledge. 4. Twilight of the Gods 4 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 6//00 (T) Start m L of diamond shaped block. Layback up into crack and follow it to ledge. 5. Follow the Sign 5 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 6//00 (T) Climb on to the diamond shaped block. Climb short crack on the L. Rail R onto knobbled face. Up top out. Doggy gear! Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

32 6. The Gods Must Be Crazy 7 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Loose chimney. 7. Apprentices Need To Cry 6 Allen Luck & the apprentices 6//00 (T) Climb the easy stepped off width 5m R of diamond shaped block. Ever so slightly crap. 8. White Breasts of Cormorants Anthony Van Tonder & Bugs Sprouse /0/00 (T) Climb the crack line 4m R of choosy open book. Stay in the narrow crack all the way to the top. 9. Bird Shit King 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) About m from White Breasts of Cormorants, towards MB. Climb the twin cracks (less than m apart). The LH is an off width and the R notched. Up these to cool hand crack. Traverse R onto knobby face. Belay with the birds. If bird shit is your thing this one is for you. 0 The Platform Diamond shaped balanced block 8 9 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

33 Catfish Cove Walk down to boulder beach between Second and Third Headlands. The following routes are on the MB side of the cove and are listed from L to R Catfish Cove Black Angel at Your Side 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 8/0/004 (T) Climb the short-zigzagged crack, on the small face on the MB side of the walk down. Start m L of perfect hand crack.. Dirty Harry 6 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 8/0/004 (T) Climb the short, perfect, and straight hand crack on the small face on the MB side of the walk down.. Octopus Up - 4 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 8/0/004 (T) Climb the chimney groove.5m R of Dirty Harry. 4. Tear of God 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 8/0/004 (T) Climb the rampy off width open book 4m R of Dirty Harry. 5. Lithic Mulch Extreme 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 8/0/004 (T) Up LH crack crossing R till the grass. Keep on up to belay off the fence post. Not fun. 6. Nurse! Nurse! I m Feeling Worse 5 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 8/0/004 (T) Climb the loose crack in the slab, which starts on the R and crosses another crack to form a rough X. Onto grass. Up scary grass till belay is found. A 60m rope will take you to the fence posts. 7. War She s a Whore! 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 8/0/004 (T) Climb the prominent loose crack m R of the start of Nurse! Nurse! I m Feeling Worse. Use the finger crack and the plusher crack m to the R. Head to the fence if you have a 60m rope. Belay off a well chosen post. 8. Dark Angel 5 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 8/0/004 (T) Up the easy stepped crack which starts on the steep grass slope. Move L onto veg ledge. Pass block to L. Up veggie scramble to awesome off width. 9. King Contrary Man 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 8/0/004 (T) Climb the groove m R of Dark Angel. Gain the veg ledge. Move to the L and around block. Traverse up and R. Climb the crack behind the large block. Up grass. Hunt for a belay not easy. 0. Pogrom Day - 5 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham July 00(T) Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

34 Climb the prominent, flaring, off width m L of Beer Fish. Belay below sharp arête. Escape safely by staying roped for a second easy pitch.. Beer Fish Ian Schwarts, Mike Louw & Wendy Jenkin April 99 (T) Near the water line there are two obvious, parallel L trending chimney grooves. Climb the better looking LH groove.. Bobfish Ian Schwarts, Mike Louw & Wendy Jenkin April 99 (T) Climb the RH of the above-mentioned grooves.. Cat Fish Rising 0 Ian Schwartz and Stewart Middlemiss April 99 P 0 Start at the low tide mark and climb a thin finger crack to a ledge. P 5 Continue up the easy but pleasant wall above. 4. Barfly Retching Stuart Middlemiss April 99 (T) Climb the thin L leaning crack line about 0 or 5m inland of the water line. Unfortunately the water line moves up and down with the tide. So this could be about any thin crack on the face. 5. A Sailor to Die 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/004 (T) Climb the short off width to top of block. This area is only climbable at very low tide and in calm conditions. 6. Little Angel 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) m R of off width, climb the thin line for 5m to a ledge. Move slightly L and up. Not very long. Scramble off block on the MB side. Route does not continue up rippled face. 7. Competing With the Wind Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Climb the easy L trending diagonal to the top of the block. Scramble off block on the MB side. 8. Merchants of Death 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Up easy steps onto big ledge. Up open book into loose crack. Take the easiest line L to a belay point. 9. Peace Dog 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) m R of Merchants of Death. Up nice crack onto ledge. Move R onto up turned V rocks and into easy V shaped crack. At the top of this, continue up crap grass for about 5m to safe belay. 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

35 Third Headland Castaways This area is easiest reached by, parking on the nd Headland and walking down the grassy gully between the nd and rd Headlands. Castaways is situated near the top, on the DM side of the grassy gully. Unfortunately the lines are more than a tad on the short side. Routes are recorded MB to DM.. Faith Healer 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Scramble up the easy ramp on the sea ward face. Climb the diagonal R crack to top out.. Dinosaur Worm 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Climb the very short off width. Move L to hole through rock. Up nose to top. This single short route is situated close to the top of the grass slope. Castaways Castaways Hunters 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Climb the V shaped crack with the square block in it. 4. Captaino Insano 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Quite nice climbing. About 8m R of Naked Island. Climb the short obvious crack for 8m. Belay from ledge. 5. Skirmish 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Start on the big ledge where Captaino Insano ends. Climb the obvious crack for 7m. Short but not so sweet. 6. Spirit Walker 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /04/004 (T) This is the very thin line.5m to the R of Naked Island. There is no clear crack. From the big ledge up the off width to the L of the over hang. 7. Naked Island 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 05/0/00 (T) Thin start, to inverted V crack. Awesome line. 8. Feeling Fragile 8 Gavin Peckham & Craig Bester 05/0/00 (T) Prominent line, with thin start. 9. Sheltering Desert - 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 05/0/00 (T) Thinly protected slab. 0. Ring Piece Raider 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /04/004 (T&RB) Climb this easy line. It has one removable bolt hole about 5m off the deck, but it is easy to climb the route without placing the removable bolt. Very short.. Stranded 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 05/0/00 (T) Short easy line to the L 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

36 Castaways Storm Bringer This is a small stack of rock. The routes are too short to be magic routes. Basically all these routes would be bouldered if it were not for rolling off the cliffs & into the sea. Fun none the less!. Smoke on the Water 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 05/0/00 (T) Fat crack to the L.. Fire in the Sky 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 05/0/00 (T) Centre finger crack to small roof.. Thunder Below 8 Storm Bringer Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 05/0/00 (T) 4 Open book into roof. 4. Storm Bringer 6 7m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 8//06 (T) Up the short arete layaway, traverse R & into crack. The following routes are on a small splat of rock on the MB side of the stack. 5. You Can t stop Rock n Roll 4 9m Derek Marshall 8//06 (S) Up proninent wide crack in edge. 6. Fake Snoek 6 9m Patrick Brown & Ruben Snyman 8//06 (T) Up the prominent finger crack, through small roof & top out. 7. BS Gear & Sheer Determination 6 9m Ruben Snyman & Patrick Brown 8//06 (T) Up the open book, through small roof & top out. 8. Soldier Under Comand 8 0m Derek Marshall, Craig Bester & Storm Bringer Patrick Brown8//06 (T) Start L of blunt arete prow, up on rails & ledges, move R around the arete & up the RHS Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

37 Bionic Man This small sector is located above the deep gorge between the rd & 4thHeadlands. Sector is easily identified by the small stack set away from a smooth pitted face just below the vehicle track level.. Bionic Man 0 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck June 00 (T) Climb the only crack in the pocked face on the DM side of the small stack.. Project ~5 (RB&T) Up on pockets & dimples.. Revival of the Fittest 4 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 6/06/07 (RB&T) Up on pockets & dimples.5 m R of the blunt arête. 4. More Than Enough 6 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 6/06/07 (RB&T) Up the blunt arête. 5. Steve 0 Allen Luck & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Climb the RH arête of the MB face of the small stack. 6. Man van Staal Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) Climb the short L facing open book on the MB face of the small stack. The following route is directly across the gully to the L. 7. Done Dirt Cheap 4 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 6/06/07 (T) Up the clean spat of rock. Start on a bit of a ramp & then up a bit of an arête. There is a cool hollowed out handle on the LHS of the block on top Bionic Man Bionic Man 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

38 4 th Headland Traveling from MB towards DM, turn left through the nd gate. Follow the track, which curves L. Park where the track forms a car park. Track from MB Buccaneer's Cove Rock Rabbit S E S E Brass Monkey S E Parking Abseil Point S E House of Cards S E Ticket to Ride S E Dead Man's Chest S E Sea Stack Graveyard S E Tombstone Gulch S E BJ Buttress S E Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

39 Rock Rabbit Wall Descend the grassy slope on the MB side of the headland. About 5m down begin to traverse landward. Rock Rabbit Wall is the shortish not-so-good-looking splash of rock to the L.. Roger Rabbit Anthony & Rodger van Tonder, Gavin Peckham July 00 (T) Climb the short open book.. What s Up Doc 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) Climb the chimney, then through the roof.. Bleeding Heart Graffiti 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/04/004 (T&RB) Start on the arête that forms the RH side of the chimney. Keep to the R of the arête. 4. Remember When 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 8/07/00 (T) Up L facing open books, onto big ledge. Step a bit R then up prominent crack. 5. Brae Rabbit 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Climb the loose looking face to the R of Remember When. Some of the pro is dubious. 6. New Wine 5 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 7//07 (RB&T) Up crack just L of arête, onto ledge. Up to R of off-width, but using off-width. 7. Bugs Bunny Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) Climb the chimney to the R of Brae Rabbit. 8. Elmer J Fudd Craig Bester & Allen Luck June 00 (T) Up the short slab. 9. Nibbles 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Chimney. 0. Rogerer 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester July 00 (T) Climb the easy slab. 0. Wabbit Twacks 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Up the short easy chimney.. Milk & Honey, A0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 7//07 (4RB&T) Up crack & horizontal cracks. Up ramp recess. Would go free at ~5. Rock Rabbit Rock Rabbit Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

40 Ticket to Ride Park on the 4 th Headland. Descend on the MB village side of the headland. This area has a great tea spot & a number of stunning lines. This is a good spot to take beginners or for a first visit with limited time.. Pick Pocket - Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer 06//000 (T) Climb the short off width on the LH side.. Sugar or Honey 7 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 7/06/07 (T) Up to R of arête using rails & the arête, but not the off-width. Where the off-width runs out, step L to a belay spot.. Paper Back Writer 6 Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubenheimer 06//000 (T) Up the L tending ramp, then up the prominent crack. Just below the top the crack makes a dog's-leg to R for m (crux) before continuing to the top. 4. This Makes Sense 9 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 7//06 (T) Start in recess. Up rails on face between Paper Back Writer & Day Tripper, into thin crack. Avoid going into either Paper Back Writer & Day Tripper Day Tripper 5 5 Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T) Start in the recess to the L of the block. Up the obvious crack line. Ticket To Ride Come to Me 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 7//06 (T) Up the crack with two V roves. Directly up between Day Tripper & Genesis, without using either. 7. Genesis 6 Phillip Turnbull & J. Fuller Aug 98 (T) Start on the LH side of the block. Up the ramp to gain a vertical crack. 8. Ticket to Ride 6 Dave & Barbara Freer July 98 (T) Climb the very prominent crack which starts in the middle of the block. 9. Trade the Darkness 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 7//06 (T) Up, tacking on the rails between Ticket to Ride & The Feeling is Tight. This route does out of necessity use the arêtes of Ticket to Ride & The Feeling is Tight. 0. The Feeling is Tight 8 Wayne Clausen & John Moorcroft 7/08/98 (T) Start to R of block. Climb the ever widening off width crack.. Purple Rain 9 Clee Roy, Andrew Forsyth, Pixie Fuller & Alan Briers 0/06/985 (T) Climb the arête between the Ticket to Ride & Natal Faces. Keep to the L of the arête for the first half, and then step to the R. Keeping close to the arête to the top. There is good protection to be had. The following routes can be reached by walking around the corner. The more land ward routes are reached by abseiling from the chock stone in the chimney, What s up Doc, on the Rock Rabbit Wall.. Footsie Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 0/06/985 (T) Start just L of Catch. Climb the over hang on the R. Using holds on Catch is off route.. Catch 8 Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T) Climb the crack through the roof, m R of the arête. 4. Thin Ice 7 Dave & Barbara Freer March 98 (T) Climb the slab with a crack through it to gain the vertical crack, about.5 m R of Catch. 40 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

41 5. Natal Dave & Barbara Freer, Dave Reason 98 (T) Climb the prominent crack.5m R of Catch. There were top anchors placed, but they were removed soon afterwards. 6. Roofy and Goofy 0 Steve Davis & R. van der Wiel December 0 (T) Start just L of Acne. Traverse L below the roof for about m along good under clings. Through the roof and up diagonally L to the top of Natal. 7. Acne 5 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes 98 (T) Climb the broken line 5m R of Catch. It is better than it looks. The following routes can be reached by roped Traverse to the R, but are better reached by abseiling in from the Rock Rabbit Ticket To Ride Wall. The belay ledges are well protected. 8. Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da 9 5m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) Abseil onto sloping square ledge. Start-up good short crack on the L. Climb to start of large grassy chimney. Up the blocks on the L. Then up stepped face to the top. 9. Please Please Me 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) Abseil on to same ledge as above. Climb the off width open book on the L. Climb this to gain the chimney. Over huge chock stone to the top. 0. Lost Digit 6 Gary Hodgekinson & Carl van der Linger Sept 98 (T) Belaying from the same ledge as above. Traverse R to find the next prominent crack. Climb to large block. Move L round a corner and up a ramp.. Hey Jude 5 4m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Using same belay as above. Traverse about m further R than Lost Digit. Climb the broken, blocky crack system through a minor roof. Abseil from the top, further R to reach a large ledge with a huge boulder. This ledge is lower than the previous. Also well protected. Can be wet down there. Suggest low tide and a calm day.. Yellow Submarine 8 6m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck April 00 (T) Start to R and below the above ledge. Up an open book to gain a crack in a groove. Through an easy roof to the top. 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

42 The following routes are reached by abseiling down a steep grassy slope below Rock Rabbit Wall.. Babes in Black 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Climb the short off width on the face closest to the rest of Natal Face. Through the awkward cubby hole onto a big ledge. Up the big open book. 4. Skeletor 5 Craig Bester & Allen Luck June 00 (T) Climb the easy open book to large ledge. Up the same big open book. 5. Lucy in the Sky 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck June 00 (T) Climb the obvious curving crack on the RH wall of the descent gully. This is the free standing pillar opposite Ticked to Ride. There is a tricky scramble-off on the DM side. 6. Lowest Mangy Cur Craig Bester & Allen Luck July 005 (T) Very short, very easy slab to the R of the blocky off width open book. 7. Twisting With Trad 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 005 (T) Ticket To Ride Blocky off width open book using LH exit crack at the top. 8. Tower of Glory 0 Matt Long & Derek Marshall July 005 (T) Start to the L of blocky off width open book. Move R then Traverse L onto the arête & to the top. Ticket To Ride 9. Radio Free Moscow 0 Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 0/06/985 (T) On the MB side of pillar. Start on the seaward corner. Move R onto the RH arête. Climb through some awkward overhanging bits to the top. There are chains on top, but they would be rusted through by now. 0. Our Lady of the Abattoir 5 Dave & Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes 98 (T) On the sea ward face. Climb the nasty looking off width on the R. Trend L into central chimney crack.. Stone Hinge Fakes 6 0 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Climb the thin crack to the L. Top out using the same chimney as above.. Lovingly Fondled 7 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 7/06/07 (T) Up prominent blocky crack break. Where this thins out near the top, step R onto the arête. 4 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

43 Blue Jay Buttress Blue Jay Buttress is the small buttress which overlooks the Ticked to Ride. Fairly dense wild banana trees hide the base and part of the routes. Do not be put off by them Blue Jay Buttress doesn't look like much, but it is actually quite good climbing.. Kortbroek -5 Rodney Owen, Eric Penman, Gavin Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 00 (T) Climb the middle of the short, clean face to the R of Blackbird.. Blackbird 5 Rodney Owen, Eric Penman, Gavin Peckham & Anthony van Tonder 00 (T) Start up the narrow face just to the R of the Blue Jay open book. Into sharp edged chimney on top.. Blue Jay 4 C.Boswell-Brown, Pete Hawkes, Carol Fenn, Fred Vogelsang & Benji Thorpe 98 (T) Climb the large off width, stepped open book. Gear is better than it looks. 4. Dark Agony - 6 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 7//06 (T) 5. John Brown 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Start in the short wide crack. Then up the stepped arête. Blue Jay Buttress 4 6. G String 8 Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham 06//000 (T) Climb the thin multi crack system o'clock Shark 7 Gary Hodgkinson, Carl van der Lingen & Dave Freer (T) Climb the large crack with wedged block in the sloping face. 8. Bubblegum Pain 4 Dirk van der Walt & Craig Bester 7//06 (T) Up the crack system behind the banana trees. 9. Schnaffeled from the Fornicator 4 Ruben Snyman & Allen Luck 7//06 (T) Open book crack, then 0.5m R near the top. Blue Jay Buttress Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

44 Blue Jay Buttress Parking To Ticket to Ride To House of Cards 44 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

45 House of Cards These routes are on the square of rock closest to the car park. The top is easily accessed from the land ward side.. Ear Ache - 4 Carl van der Lingen & Gary Hodgekinson Sept 98 (T) 5 Climb the short, clean, L trending crack. Pity it s so short.. One Step From Earth - 9 AKA: Jump Start Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T&C) Start to the R of perfect, smooth looking face. There is aground up version & the version where you commit to jumping onto the face from the boulder in front of the face. Gain the ledge. Climb the diagonal crack to the top. This route was first climbed by Dave & Barbara Freer with one aid move. Freed by Derek Marshall. The jump is committing, but sweet.. One Step From Earth Alternate Start 7 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 000 (T&C) 4 Start just around the corner to the R. Gain the ledge, then up the diagonal crack to the top. 4. Rabbit Killer 0 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 000 (T) Start just L of Fear No Evil. Up easy ramp, then up overhanging off House of Cards width. 6 Friend a bonus! 5. Fear No Evil 9 Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T) Climb the vertical crack on the land ward side of the gully. 6. Graven Image 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/07/005 (T) Just R of Fear No Evil, jump for the square ledge. Up small L facing open book. Easy to the top. Very short. 7. Ruins of My Life 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/07/005 (T) Small under cut open book on the MB seaward arête. Very short. 8. Why Don t You Get a Rack 7 Allen Luck & William Lesley 09/07/005 (T) On MB face. Up short off width open book. 9. What? A Spice Rack? 5 Allen Luck & William Lesley 09/07/005 (T) House of Cards Slab on RH side of MB face. To Ticket to Ride 5 4 These routes are on the piece of rock which is almost free standing stack. The top can be accessed by easy scramble up the MB side. 0. Innocent 5 Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs 000 (T) Climb the rather crap line on the sea ward side of the gully.. Block Head 6 John Alexander & Gavin Stewart 7/08/98 (T) Start up the awesome layback to gain the top of the block. Up the LH corner. Moving further L at the top. Lovely route. From Parking 7 9 To Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall Tombstone Gulch

46 . Life and Life to the Full 5 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt April 00 (8B&C) Mike Roberts first saw this line in the 80 s. He spent the whole week end hand drilling the bolt placements. Unfortunately he had to leave it incomplete at the end of the weekend. The remains of his bolts are still visible. Safety note: These bolts are past their expiry. Beware!. Reaper at Your Side Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T & 5RB) Start in overhanging V grovel. From the top of the block move L onto the arête. Climb the face just to the R of the arête using the arête. Totally stunning. 4. Tru Grit 9 Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T) Large mostly unprotected chimney. 5. Teething Trouble 7 Stuart Middlemiss (T) Face \ arête with little (or no) protection. 6. Airs above Ground 8 Dave & Barbara Freer & Gary Hodgekinson 98 (T) Start in open book, Traverse to left, round the corner, to top out. 7. Saddle Up 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 Short route to R of Airs above Ground. 8. Strip Poker 7 Craig Bester & Rudi Brewis /0/004 (T&RB) Climb the ramp m R of Airs above Ground. It s a short but sweet line. 9. Pop Horn 7 Allen Luck & Rudi Brewis 0/0/004 (T) Climb the gross off width 4m R of Airs above Ground. Bit too short. 0. I ll Be There 7 Allen Luck & Rudi Brewis 0/0/004 (T) Climb the V off width with the large rock jammed in it, 5.5m R of Airs above Ground. Time Has Come 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 0/0/004 (T) Climb the off width open book ramp, 7m R of Airs above Ground. Cool and Smooth 6 Derek Marshall & Rudi Brewis /0/004 (T) Climb the extremely short, but very cool crack on the far R. It s actually more of a boulder problem. Worth the effort. House of Cards Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

47 Tombstone Gulch Descend as for House of Cards. Tombstone Gulch is the broken gully below House of Cards on the seaward side. The gully descends steeply towards MB. The Tombstones stand above on the seaward side. The following routes are on the landward face.. Dead or Alive 7 Allen Luck & Dave Kruger 4/05/00 (T) Start below the blocks. Gain the large ledge. Climb the vertical crack system to the square notch. m. Master of Destines 6 Derek Marshall & Dave Kruger 4/05/00 (T) Start on the shale ledge. Climb V groove onto sloped ledge. Up vertical crack L of balanced boulders, then up the V chimney.. Snark 4 Dave & Barbara Freer 98 (T) Start on shale below vertical cracks in small buttress. Onto ledge. Up blocky off width into cubby hole chimney. 4. Boojum 5 Dave & Barbara Freer, Carl van der Lingen, Kim Blakeway & Phillip Turnbull 98 (T) Starting on shale, then up broken blocky line. 5. Pre-Ordained 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 4/05/00 (T) Start on shale below crack through overhang. Through overhang, up L trending crack system. Traverse R below small roof to belay ledge. 6. Pre-destined 0 Derek Marshall & Dave Kruger 4/05/00 (T) Start on shale below roof. Tread R into short awkward open book. Up an awkward ramp using under clings. Then up easy L trending crack system. Tombstone Gulch 4 5 Intresting Fossil The next 4 routes are reached by descending as for Ticket to Ride. Descend past the free stander & below the seaward face. Find the comfy ledge. There is a beautiful fossil on this ledge. 7. The Enemies Line Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) Up curving open book ramp. Easy moves to the top, then L into open book. 8. Take No Prisoners 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) Up twin cracks to tricky move. 9. Till Death 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) Climb the large off width. 0. Grave Yard Shift 7 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) Up large flaring off width.. Cool n Crispy 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 4/05/00 (T) 6m of perfect jam crack. Unfortunately so short. This is found above the landward face of Tombstone Gulch. The next 5 routes are located around the larger of the Tombstones. That is the one closest to MB.. Undertaker 4 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 06/07/00 (T) Climb the nice, but to short crack on the DM side of the Tombstone. 47 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

48 . Coroner 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 06/07/00 (T) Scramble down Tombstone Gulch to below the landward arête on the DM side of the Tombstone. Climb the obvious crack line then the landward face of the Tombstone. 4. Mortician 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 06/07/00 (T) Scramble down Tombstone Gulch to below the landward arête on the MB side of the Tombstone. Climb the off width onto blocky ledge. Up ramp on MB side of Tombstone. 5. Pall Bearer 5 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 06/07/00 (T) Climb the very short seaward face. 6. Tomb Raider 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 06/07/00 (T) Up the short arête between Pall Bearer and Undertaker. To House of Cards Intresting Fossil To Ticket to Ride To Graveyard Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

49 Graveyard The Tombstones are easy to see. Prominent free-standing squares of rock between House of Cards and the sea. The Graveyard is below The Tombstones towards the large sea stack which is Shark Fin.. Gecko Blaster 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 06/07/00 (T) Start in corner crack then up the arête.. Budgie Lungs 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 06/07/00 (T) Start in corner crack, then onto sloping ledge. Up the open book.. Wet, Wet, Wet! 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 06/07/00 (T) Traverse L towards sea stack. Climb the off width to gain a ledge. Then climb the chimney Does not sound sweet! Brass Monkey Buttress On the landward side of House of Cards. Just below the car park. Brass Monkey Buttress Beer Belly 0 Gavin Peckham 06/0/00 (S) Very short easy line.. Grunt 0 Gavin Peckham 04/0/00 (S) Short, easy, veg climb.. Low Gear Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) In the descent gully. To L of prominent crack. 4. Intoxicated 7 Ruben Snyman & Dale Gathercole 8/06/07 (T) Climb the open book. Climb between the two crags. Top out between the two rocks on top. 5. Brass Monkey Gavin Peckham & Allen Luck 06/07/00 (T) Climb the off width open book. Step R onto ramp, then up the easy crack. 6. Brass Monkey Direct 5 Allen Luck & Gavin Peckham 06/07/00 (T) Up the off width open book. Trend L to the top out. 7. Crackamania 9 Gavin Raubenheimer & Gavin Peckham 05/0/00 (T) Behind bananas. Crack runs through roof. 8. Pooh's Corner 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 05/0/00 (T) Open book to left of Crackamania. 9. Slim Shady 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 06/07/00 (T) Climb the crack 6m L of Crackamania. 0. Stinky Winky Craig Bester & Allen Luck 06/07/00 (T) Too short to be any good. 49 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

50 Pineapple Ridge Two isolated routes, on separate pieces of rock, jutting out of banana plants. On the edge of the seam which runs down into Buccaneers Cove.. Banana Split 0 Gavin Peckham 04/0/00 (S) Climb the tallest of the tiny pinnacles by using the sea ward crack.. Tangerine 0 Gavin Peckham 04/0/00 (S) Climb the flake line on the seaward side below Banana Split. Pinapple Ridge Pinapple Ridge 50 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

51 Buccaneer s Cove This is the wide rocky ravine between the 4 TH and 5 TH Headlands. The best approach is an abseil from a large boulder 0m above Dead Man s Chest. Or walk around on the seaward side of Dead Man s Chest at low tide. Buccaneer s Cove is definitely a low tide area only. These routes are on the small free-standing stack on DM side of Buccaneer s Cove Savage Attack 6 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) 7 Jam up nice crack in centre of very short, inland face.. Broken Tooth 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester June 00 (T) Abseil Point Start down and m R of Savage Attack.. Hammerhead 6 Allen Luck & Philip Venter June 00 (T) Up the obvious crack 4m R of Broken Tooth. 4. Back Biter - Craig Bester & Allen Luck June 00 (T) 4 Climb the broken seaward arête. 5. Koeksister 4 Phillip Venter & Allen Luck June 00 (T) Bucaneer's Cove Climb the nice, but very small crack about 0m away, towards Strip Tease. These lines are on the DM side of Buccaneer s Cove. There is some more potential for new routes. 6. Land Ahoy 5 Allen Luck & Justin Mostert 08/0/004 (T) This route is on the broken sea ward face between the Dead Man s Chest and the main wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Up steps to chimney. Head for the grassy slope. 7. Ghost Ship 7 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 08/0/004 (T) m R of Land Ahoy. Up easy steps to short, but nice open book. Head for the grass. 8. Shiver-me-rocks 9 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/0/004 (T) m L of cave on the DM side, up the seriously loose broken line to the grassy slope above. 9. Glas & Draad 9 A0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/0/004 (T) Prominent crack on the wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Very greasy finger crack. Eventually some gear was dogged on. Good line though. 0. Dragon Slayer 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Starts just L of cave, which is situated at far R of the wall on the DM side of Buccaneers Cove. Climb the Chimney into off width. Topping out on steep grass slopes. A full bakkie of loose rock was unloaded from this line during the opening ascent.. The-One-Eyed-Fanny-Pirate 6 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 08/0/004 (T) In the passage, about 4m from the cave on the MB side, climb the fist crack. Then move L & up.. Wet Wild Wet 7 Jakobus Oosthuizen & Dirk Van Der Walt 0/07/07 (T) Up a prominent R facing open book. The next routes are on the large sea stack, shaped like a shark fin, between the 4 th and 5 th Headland. To exit from the top: down climb Sea Urchin onto the platform. Climb off the platform on the DM side, on the sea end. Wade or balance across slippery rocks at the bottom. Yes obviously at low tide! 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

52 . Access Route 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) Start by stepping off the block on the land ward side at low tide. Climb up a few meters then Traverse along the line where the shale meets the dolerite on the seaward side. There is a large safe platform on the seaward side from which to belay. All the routes can be reached dry by using this route. 4. Barracuda 4 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) Up the prominent crack on the land ward corner of the DM facing wall. 5. Sting Ray 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) Thin crack 4m R of Barracuda. 6. The Mobster s Lobster Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) Up the loose line on the DM corner of the seaward face. 7. Sea Urchin 0 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) The obvious line in the middle of the seaward face. Also the down climb. Caves Abseil Point Potential for hard lines 6 7 Boulder Beach Abseil Point Sea Stack Bucaneer's Cove 5 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

53 5 th Headland On the road to Double Mouth, take the second track. Follow the track that trends in the DM direction. Park on the last headland or head land closest to DM. Track from MB/DM S E Smooth Operator Just a Breeze Booze Cruise Parking Eager Beaver Defusion S E Bucaneer's Cove Pivotal Motion Made to Fit Slippery When Wet S 4 0. E Bay of Plenty S E S 4 0. E Carnival is Over S E Strip Tease Linear Ledge S 4 0. E Sea Stack The Tusk S E Hottentot's Ledge S E Whale Bone S E Needle Wall S E Sweet Surrender S 4 0. E Dunkirk Strandlooper Buttress S E Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

54 Diffusion This is the line of crags along the top of the Morgan Bay side of the 5 Th Headland. To reach them, find the scramble, which leads to Linear Ledge, follow the grassy slope inland, to the Diffusion Wall. Eager Beaver stands above a dense thicket of strelitzias further to the R. This is the rampy rocks land ward of the walk in to Linear Ledge, 0m R of the prominent open book, Midnight Sun. 9. Banana FL Abseil Point 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Climb the broken stepped ramp. Then R past roof.. Broken Banana Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Climb the easy ramp. Top out to the R. A perfect open book on the LH side, indicates the start of Diffusion Wall Diffusion. Midnight Sun Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) This is the short, but perfect open book on the L of the crag. 4. Kontiki 8 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) m R of open book. Up vertical crack system then onto veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 5. Ra 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) 5.5m R of open book. Up horizontal cracks for 4m, then up L curving crack to gain veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 6. Tai Ki - 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) 6m R of open book. Climb the of width, moving into the off width on the L. Traverse L along a ledge to gain the veg ledge. Up the small sea facing face to gain spacious belay ledge. 7. Project 8. Diffusion 7 Bugs Sprouse & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Start under small roofs a few metres L of the blocky steps of Fu Snag. Pass the roof on the R to reach a sharp flake. Easy moves to the top. 9. Fu Sang -0 Kendyl Kunhardt & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Follow crack up blocky steps. 0. Walk Out 8 Craig Bester 00 (S) Stepped scramble.. Vesectomy Vision 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) About 6m R of Walk Out, climb the openbook hand crack. Avoid the loose rock., top out on the grass slope. There is nothing to belay from exept grass tufts.unless you have been smart enough to park your car near to the edge. Diffusion 54 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

55 Eager Beaver Find your way through the strelitzias to the wall.. Eager Beaver Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 0/07/00 (T) m R of where the base of the wall drops sharply. Climb onto a small ledge to gain a short of width. Then climb the R tending slab, which leads to a good crack up the next slab. This route is better than it looks.. Elephants Asshole 4 - Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 0/07/00 (T) About 5m R of Eager Beaver is a nasty, dirty gully, which runs under a huge chock stone. Climb the gully into the cave and behind the chock stone. Wriggle through a small orifice. Do not repeat this route as there is a danger of becoming stuck in the orifice. When this happens, you will feel like an elephant sized asshole. Gavin Peckham refused to second. 55 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

56 Linear Ledge Sweet Surrender Linear Ledge On the side of the headland that faces Morgan Bay find the 9 8 P P Tea spot 4 steep decent gully. This area is where a large majority of climbing takes place at Morgan Bay. 0. Easy Livin - Derek Marshall 00 (Solo) Start m L of descent scramble. Climb stepped easy face to grassy ledge. Move L into open book. Take easiest line to the top.. Pins and Needles Allen Luck & Craig Bester 04/08/004 (T) Climb the crack line to Strip Tease the L of Easy Livin.. Blue Swede Shoes 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 04/08/004 (T) Just R of Old Fashioned Book, up the off width, onto ledge. Move R and up. 4. Old Fashioned Book 6 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Off width open book into chimney. 5. Worm on a Hook 0 Dave & Babara Freer (T) m L of Old Fashioned Book, climb the vertical crack. Break slightly L to a ledge, then continue up crack to the top. 6. Alien Away 9 Dave & Babara Freer (T) 4m L of Old Fashioned Book, climb a short, slightly overhanging crack line to the same ledge as on Worm on a Hook. Continue straight up awkward double crack to the top. 7. Drunk In The Midnight Choir Dave & Babara Freer (T) m R of Burning Bush, climb the crack using poor pinch grips. A tricky traverse 8m up, leads to another crack. Protection is sparse, but good. 8. Burning Bush 5 Dave Freer & Rex Quick (T) This is the grungy looking recess just R of Linear Accelerator. 9. Linear Accelerator - 7 Dave & Babara Freer & Pete Hawkes 98 (T) Climb the cracks into prominent open book ramp. 0. Bannana Boy Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 0/06/985 (T) Start just L of Linear Accelerator. Climb face trending L. Traverse m R on horizontal rail, then up thin crack to ledge.. All My Sins Remembered 0 Stuart Middlemiss & B.Slater 986 (T) 56 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

57 Step off inverted V rock, then streight up.. No Pain, No Strain, No Brain 0 Stuart Middlemiss 986 (T) Step off inverted V. Break L.. Friendly Thief 9 Steve Cooke & Babara Freer (T) Open book through small roof. 4. Bird On a Wire 9 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Arête L of All My Sins Remembered. 5.Teenage Punks 4 Morne van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 00 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. These bolts are old & dangerous. 6. Fiddler's Green 8 Dave & Babara Freer (T) P 5 Start as for Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered. 4m up Traverse L. Climb the RH crack system. P 8 Perfect crack. Tiny R facing open book crack. 7. Brave, Brave Mouse 7 Dave & Babara Freer (T) P 7 Start 6m L of where the platform drops into the sea. Up short, steep crack to gain stepped face bearing L. Traverse the loose slat of rock (m long). Up thin crack. Step R to avoid trouble then onto Linear Ledge. P 4 Climb the obvious crack to the R of the open book. Move L at the top to avoid poor rock. 8. The Razor's Edge 4 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Broken open book. 9. Sinister Mouse 5 Hugo Vaughan & Cecily Roos 07/07/005 (T) The climb to the L of Brave, Brave Mouse nd pitch, on the extreme L of the Linear Ledge. The following short route is between Linear Ledge & Lower Linear Ledge. 0. The Peanut Line Craig Bester & Mark Luck 04/09/004 (T) Short open book. Same walk in as Linear Ledge, except continue down to platform just above the sea. A large free standing boulder has a few boulder problems. This area can only be climbed at low tide and with favourable weather conditions.. Rock 'n Role Party 0 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) Up easy break in middle of small face, onto grassy ledge. Up broken steps and belay from Linear Ledge.. Hail to England 5 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) Climb the easy off width between two small faces. Across grassy ledge. Top out as for Rock 'n Role Party.. Monte Cassino 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Up RH R trending, slab crack to gain stepped ledge. Climb the easy open book. 4. Vanya 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Start m L of Monte Cassino. Climb the divergent cracks, to stepped ledge. Up prominent crack just L of easy open book. 5. Gold Fears No Fire 7 Derek Marshall & Kendyl Kunhardt 00 (T) Start m L of Monte Cassino. Climb LH divergent crack. Trend L over series of ledges. Top out on Linear Ledge. 6. African Mask 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start just R of huge balanced, rectangular block. Up face and series of ledges to reach over hanging shield which looks like an African mask. Belay here. Traverse R to walk off. 7. I m In The Mood For Tradding 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T),5m R of large balanced, rectangular block. Climb the prominent R trending crack. Stay in the RH crack all the way to Linear Ledge. 8. Trad Heroes 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T),5m L of large balanced, rectangular block. Climb the LH prominent R trending stepped crack. Then up the easy gully. 9. Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered 6 Dave & Babara Freer & PhillipTurnbull (T) 57 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

58 Belay at the same start as On the Loose Again. Traverse diagonaly R for m to reach the first vertical crack system.up this to Linear Ledge. 0. On the Loose Again 5 Steve Cooke & Dave Freer (T) Descend as for Brave, Brave Mouse. Traverse L into slopping recess. Climb the RH groove. Open book up steep hollow section. Step L to finish. Traverse above the waves from Lower Linear Ledge.. Ticket To Heaven 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up LH gully open book.. Silver Twos 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) m R of the open book gully. Up a featured face with sweet pinches. Belay on the grass below Cliff Warfare. 58 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

59 Strip Tease Strip Tease Small chossy wall on the DM side of the rocky beach that starts in Buccaneer s Cove. There are some sweet routes to be had, but only at low tide. Some of the lines are surprisingly long.. Choose Your Reality 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/06/004 (T) Up ramp slabs to L of small roof. Then up steps to the R. Find tricky belay in the steep grass.. Punda Paradise 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 9/06/004 (T) Up R trending flake system to a break just R of a small roof.. Indiana Jones & the Crack of Doom 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 9/06/004 (T) Up the gross off width, 4m R of Tyre Naaier. It is more than crap. 4. Show Girls 7 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 9/06/004 (T) Up the crack m L of the jagged arête. Across sloped grass ledge then up short ramp crack. 5. Somebody Stop me 4 Derek Marshall & Donovan Kaschula 9/06/004 (T) Up the crap, broken open book. 6. Girls Girls Girls - 6 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 9/06/004 (T) Up the LH option of the twin spreading cracks. At the ledge, up the open book. 7. Topless Wonder 8 Allen Luck & Donavan Kaschula 9/06/004 (T) Up slightly L trending diagonal, to a prominent tri-angular feature. Move slightly L & up broken away tri-angular block. Move up ledges to the R. 8. G - String Boogie 8 Allen Luck & Donavan Kaschula 9/06/004 (T) R facing open book m R of Tyre Naaier. Up easy steps into tricky loose gully. 9. Tyre Naaier 9 0m Allen Luck & Donavan Kaschula 9/06/004 (T) Start on boulders below highest point. Up stepped open book, onto ledges. Then up awesome, but short open book. Top out on highest point. 0. Nipple Stand 8 Allen Luck & Donavan Kaschula 9/06/004 (T) Same start as Tyre Naaier. Move past off width to the R, onto a large block. Straight up from there.. Morgan Allen Luck & Donavan Kaschula 0/06/004 (T) Series of short open books & steps. This was the 500th route recorded at Morgan Bay.. Motives of the Heart Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/06/004 (T) Short perfect hand crack.. Pee-Pee-One Eyed-Pirate 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 9/06/004 (T) Start on boulders next to rock pool. Up for 4m with zero pro, to a large ledge. Up the loose off width m R of off width open book. 4. Public Access 5 Allen Luck 0/06/004 (S) Short open book chimney. 5. Geological Time is Now 8 59 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

60 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 9/06/004 (T) Up thinner twin cracks m R. 6. Thorn in the Flesh 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 9/06/004 (T) Start on boulders close to the sea at low tide. Up easy crack onto a nice ledge. Then up the prominent, if short, crack. 7. Teasers 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 0/06/004 (T) Thin crack with good steps. m L of Thorn in the Flesh. 8. Lap Dancer 8m Patrick Brown & Dirk van Der Walt 7//06 (T) Very short finger crack. 9. Pole Dancer 8m Patrick Brown & Dirk van Der Walt 7//06 (T) Very short finger crack. 0. One Nut to Heaven 8m Dirk van Der Walt & Patrick Brown 7//06 (T) Very short arête on the L.. Edge of Time 8m Patrick Brown & Dirk van Der Walt 7//06 (T) Very short broken crack in walk down gully.. Vǭ Nguyȇn Giȃp 0 9m Derek Marshall & Dirk van Der Walt 7//06 (T) Short prominent fist off width crack.. Candy s - 4 m Patrick Brown & Dirk van Der Walt 7//06 (T) Fist open book crack, into off width ramp crack. 4. Basic Intentions 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/06/004 (T) Off width ramp. 60 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

61 Sweet Surrender Easiest walk-in is via Whale Bone, under Needle Wall & then past Carnival is Over. The scramble with care to the grassy terrace under Sweet Surrender. There are scurry holes that lead to tricky scrambles. Be really careful. You can also access by abseil off your tow bar, but you would need at least a 70m rope. Carnival is Over Sweet Surrender Scurry Hole 4 Scurry Hole 7 Linear Ledge / P 5 6P Dunkirk War Doctor 4 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars /0/07 (T) Up L facing open book, over ledge & into further open book. Over block & up R trending ramp. Belay on ledge at the start of the scurry hole.. Forsaking Fate Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars /0/07 (T) Up slab into R facing open book. Step L accrss ledge & up perfect hand crack. An easy scramble gets you down.. Loosing the Balance 4 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 0/0/07 (T) Up ramp & into hand crack. Then directly up to belay ledge. 4. Eat My Veggie - 4 Ruben Snyman & Derek Marshall 0/0/07 (T) Start in R facting open book notch, up ramp into off width & into R facing fist open book. 5. The Closed Eyes of Paradise 4 6m Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars /0/07 (T) Start on jugs, up onto slab. Stay L of open book. Onto ledge, step R into L facing off width open book. Up grassu slope & into R facing chimney open book. 6. Spare Me Your Judgment 7 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 0/0/07 (T) Up bear hug style blunt arete. Over easing ramp to belay on grassy ledge above. 7. War Hammer 9 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 0/0/07 (T) Prominent crack. 8. Metal Machine 0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 0/0/07 (T) R facing, R trending open book. Through a small overhang to belay from the ledge above. 9. Cliff Warfare - 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

62 Up ramp onto ledge. Then L into chimney. 0. Gannet View - Dave Freer & Pete Hawkes (T) Slab into chimney.. Sinus 7 (T) Up short slab to a ledge. Up using the arete to reach the overhangs. Through the RH overhang.. Sweet Surrender 8 Dave Freer & Carl van der Lingend (T) Slab to ledge, open book, below roof break right.. Double Sensce 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Slab into stair way. 4. No Cam Fit 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Up Slab, into off width open book. 5. Old Man 4 Dave & Babara Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) Easy slab, onto perfect hand crack, then face. 6. DMM s Dead Stinking Arse Craig Bester & Justin Mostert 08/0/004 (T) Starting on far L of grassy ledge. Cross the slabs below the black roof. Up easy crack in face to the L of the black roof. 7. Living in Darkness Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 08/0/004 (T) Up big open book, below black roof. Follow the break into the roof. Move R on a rail. Gain the ramp. Easy going to the top. 8. Send Me a Sign 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 07/0/004 (T) Start on arête. Move L of arête into big off width. 9. No Retreat! No Surrender! 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 07/0/004 (T) Start just R of arête. Keep to the crack just to the R of arête. Mantle moves and lay baking to the top. Stay clear of off width to the L. 0. Baby Mommy Snake 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 07/0/004 (T) Up ramp to prominent huge undercut flake. Follow this line to the top.. Hairy Greek Mother Craig Bester & Justin Mostert 07/0/004 (T) Follow easy, broken, stepped route to the top.. The Werewolf From P.E. Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/004 (T) Climb off width to L of nose, onto ramp. Mantle to the L and up V crack.. Don t Stop Me Know 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Climb the off width open book to the R of the nose. 4. Flied Lice 9 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 08/0/004 (T) Climb the V crack just to the L of Suspense Account. 5. Suspense Account 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 08/0/004 (T) Climb the off width to below a small roof. Top out. 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

63 Dunkirk From Sweet Surrender abseil 45m to the wave cut platform, m above the sea. This area can only be climbed on a calm day at very low tide. These days cormorants are nesting on the easy routes to the R. Most of the routes are totally covered in bird shit. Most routes are about 40m or more.. Dive Bombers Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Traverse out above the wave cut platform to a stance. Up easy ramp, steps, ledges & over easy ground to the top.. Crack a Doey - 5 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Traverse out above the wave cut platform to a stance. Up easy ramp, steps, ledges & up a short open book to a ledge. Step R a few metres. Up easy ground to the top.. Goeden Morgan 6 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up broken ramp & steps. Up to grassy ledge 4. The Snow Goose 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Stepped slab to ledge, up broken arête to grass ledge. 5. Good Morning Morgan 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Broken steps to ledge. 6. Three Steps to the Left 5 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up stepper rails to the L, into crack break, then easy ledges to the top. 7. Evacuation 5 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Broken open book into chimney. 8. Baby Elephant Walk 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) L up ramp, into open book, up to Sweet Surrender ledge. 9. Stuka 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Medium hand crack. 0. His Eyes are Bigger Than His Balls -9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Up ledges, into open book, onto face to the top.. Just Up Allen's Alley 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Hand crack into V shaped chimney, finish up chimney to L. The following routes are round the corner to the L and start off a ledge which is higher of the sea than the previous routes. This area ends with a black horrible cave chimney.. Steel Tormentor 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Off width into perfect finger crack.. Spitfire 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Start on platform,broken open book onto lower ramp. 4. Wafens SS 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Climb the awkward off width open book,5m R of Train Hard Fight Easy! Find the easiest way to the top across steps and ledges. 5. Train Hard Fight Easy! 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Up short, but good chimney. Find the easiest way to the top across steps and ledges. 6. Desolation Angel 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Up seemingly short open book. Then up arête directly above. Pass roof to the L. 7. All Fired Up 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Up awful steps to L most open book, which is on the R. Up to L of small roof. 8. Dunkirk s Toilet Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/004 (T) Up awful steps into awful gully. Traverse R just before the grass. 9. Rudely-Hewn Grandeur 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) 6 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

64 Start 7m R of huge dark chimney. Climb the serrated open book. Move L onto large ledge. Up very nasty unprotected chimney to top of the pillar. Continue up ramps to top out. 0. Ticklish Cauliflower 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/004 (T) Start m R of huge dark chimney. Climb the absolutely perfect hand crack to the big ledge. Move R across ledge to climb the very nasty unprotected chimney to top of the pillar. Continue up ramps to top out. Carnival is Over Sweet Surrender / Strandlooper Buttress Linear Ledge Dunkirk 64 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

65 To Needle Wall Carnival is Over 4 5. Teddy Bear 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 00 (T) This is the line on the DM side of the Flycatcher slab.. Flycatcher 8 6 The Eye Pete Hawkes, D.Venter & Peter Lazarus 06/07/986 (T) This is the awesome looking slab on the DM side of the Pillar.. Lekker Lekker! 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Start under the arch formed by the Fly Catcher slabs leaning against the main pillar. Climb past a giant chock stone, then L under the arch to gain a loverly lay back. 4. The Carnival is Over 8 Dave & Babara Freer (T) Start by climbing the vertical crack in th middle of the seaward face. Trend R to gain the awesome hand crack which widens into an off width. This sector can be identified by the large boulder which forms a bridge between the grassy cliff top and the top of the free-standing pillar known as Carnival is Over. The bridge creates The Eye. The easiest & safest walk in is to the DM side of CiO Pillar then follow the path below Whale Bone in the direction of DM. Descend on easy ground to below Needle Wall. Follow the path in the direction of MB, below Needle Wall, to the base of Carnival is Over. There is a more direct, but tricky route on the DM side of CiO (S E ). This is not advised when carrying heavy packs. 5. Watching the Ocean 9 Russ Dodding & P.Greenfield 9/04/987 (T) Start at the R of the huge flake at the base of seaward face. Climb the thin crack to below a large protruding block. Move L of it and onto small ledge above. Climb the arete, finishing through the V -notch. 6. Yellow Jester Kevin Smith 985 (T) Climb the MB side of CiO pillar The Bridge Scurry hole under the Bridge To Sweet Surrender 4 Carnival is Over 5 Carnival is Over Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

66 7. Power Finger - 9 Dave Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) This route climbs the Carnival is Over Pillar on the MB side of the large block which forms The Bridge. This is the sea facing wall on the landward side, below The Eye. 8. Èlan Audacity 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 6//06 (T) Up crack, step R onto ledge. Up steps into base of open book. Step down & R into layaway formed by huge flake. 9. S Bend Jeremy Colenzo 986 (T) This is the zig-zag crack system nd to the L of the Full Value arete. 0. Breaking the Law 5 Mike Cartright, Kevin Smith & Stuart Middlemiss 987 (T) First crack to L of the Full Value arete.. Full Value Carnival is Over Stuart Middlemiss & Clive Cursens 987 (T) Cracks just R of arête, using arête. Face round the corner to the R.. One White Duck on Your Wall = 0º = Nothing at All Dave & Babara Freer & Steve Cooke (T) Strange, slightly over hanging, break R of top over hangs.. Potential 4. Haze on the Sky Line 8 Dave & Babara Freer & PhillipTurnbull (T) Start up perfect open book, then up prominent crack system. 5. Rise To The Sky 7 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 6//06 (T) Up the V groove, rail R onto a ledge, then up to the R to gain 4 5 the top of the block. Step R to a good belay. The following routes are above & on the MB side of the CiO. They are a bit short. 6. Inside Joke Ruben Snyman & Terence Trevaskis /0/06 (T) R facing open book behind boulders. 7. Ma 4 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman /0/06 (T) L facing open book behind boulders. 8. Pa - 5 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman /0/06 (T) V groove. 66 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

67 Strandlooper Buttress This buttress is below Carnival is Over in the seaward direction. Abseil from the large boulders about 0m from Carnival is Over or look for the scramble down on the DM side of the buttress. This is a low tide fair weather area. The wave cut platform becomes Dunkirk after the ugly, black chimney on the MB side of Strandlooper Buttress. Routes are recorded from MB to DM.. Swem Jannie! Swem! 9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/004 (T) Climb the obvious chimney. This is a really cool chimney. Totally recommended. Especially if you enjoy dark, damp, slippery and awkward routes. Take a 5 & 6 Friend as well as two No.4 Big Bro. The belayer should ideally have some diving experience. Derek was half way up when a freak big wave came in. Water splashed into the chimney. Belayer was washed off his feet.. Muscle Cracker 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start in small open book, up obvious crack.. Storm Walker 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Up steps to awkward chimney. Climb the off width. 4. Vuga Vuga 6 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up loose, groove to top. Walkoff 4 Strandlooper Buttress Strandlooper Buttress 67 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

68 Needle Wall Easiest access is to find a break on the MB side of Whale Bone. Follow the path at the base of Whale Bone towards the DM side. Descend about 5m. Needle Wall runs for about 40m almost to CiO. Needle Wall 4 9 / / These two routes are as you walk on the DM side & are very short, but quite sweet.. Chicken Noodle Do Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) Easy short line on DM face.. No Chicken Noodles 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Easy short line on DM face.. Mine! Mine! Mine! 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Climb the arête. 4. Rain Drops 9 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Left of cammed boulder. 5. Stone Age Cam 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Right of cammed boulder. 6. Heros of Bangui 0 6m Derek Marshall & Pat Brown 6//06 (T) Short off width open book. 7. Mine Kamf 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Short off Width. 8. Lucky Pet 0 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Past veg, up twin cracks. 9. Lucky 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Chimney. 0. Fallen in War 6 m Derek Marshall & Pat Brown 6//06 (T) Up slab onto ledge. Stay on slab L of L facing open book. Then rail L up short off width section to ledge.. The Cast Pit 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Up shallow recess, onto ledge into left into open book, top out.. Alexcor 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start in LH dirty recess, joining Mine Shaft towards top. Stay outside the mine shaft chimney.. Mine Shaft 7 Dave & Babara Freer & Steve Cooke (T) Start in dirty RH resess. Up most prominent line. Stay outside the mine shaft chimney. 4. Birth Canal 7 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 6//06 (T) 68 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

69 Start in dirty RH resess which is Mine Shaft. Near the top go into the Mine Shaft chimney. Exit on the landward side of the chimney through a scurry hole. 5. Good to Go - 4 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up blocks, steps & most prominent open book. 6. Hair of My Chiny, Chin, Chin - Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Up ledges and blocks to the top. -4 Needle Wall Like a Schnaffeling Snake - 6 Ruben Snyman & Terence Trevaskis /0/06 (T) Up blocky steps onto slabs, step L into open book. 8. Follow On 6 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Short off width. 9. Step by Step - 5 Allen Luck 00 (S) Easy chimney. 0. Bring Me to Life 6m Derek Marshall & Pat Brown 6//06 (T) Up the LH arête. Start is hard. Gear is very marginal. Near the top, break out L into thin crack.. Chosen Not Forsaken Derek Marshall, Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 6//07 (4RB&T) Start up on unlikely jug that looks like it will peal off. Into small open book roof. Move slightly L onto arête, then back R & directly up. Rail a bit R, then back L onto the line..the Needle and the Damage Done 9 Dave & Babara Freer & Gordon Bosch (T) Open book, right through the roof, left up thin crack.. Better Than Sex 7 Gavin Raubienheimer & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Start a few meters R of The Needle and the Damage Done. Directly below the RH end of the rarrow roof at the top of the face. 4. Sex 6 Gavin Raubienheimer & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Climb the arete. 5. In Trance 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start in open book. 6. Stitch by Stitch 6 Allen Luck 00 (S) Large chimney. 7. Old Age Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Easy short off width chimney. 69 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

70 8. Acceleration 7 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 6//06 (T) Scrappy steps into L curving crack. 9. Good to Be Back 5 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 6//06 (T) Scrappy steps into off width chimney. 0. Activation 6 Craig Bester & Patrick Brown 6//06 (T) L facing open book.. Eternal Reward 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Up ledges to thinly protected cracks.. Good Old Mates 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6//06 (T) This is a small stand alone route on the grass above Needle Wall. Up the simple blocky break. 70 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

71 Whale Bone Long ridge just below car park. Situated above Needle Wall Whale Bone Needle Wall 4. Down With The Sickness 4 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 6//07 (T) Up the L trending crack into gully.. Testicals of Steel 8 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 6//07 (T) Up L of blunt arête. Directly up.. It s a Game We Gonna Lose 9 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 9//06 (T) Up the short blunt arete. Gear is quite tricky. 4. Curly, Whirly, Twirly Route 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Perfect short crack. 5. White Snake 9 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 9//06 (T) Up the railed ramp between the cracks. Don t use either crack at all. 6. Come Again 5 Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder & Bugs Sprouse 00 (T) L edge of face left of chossy chimney in corner. 7. Porpous Porn 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall June 004 Chossy chimney. 8. Layback Sunday - 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Layback. 9. Preparing A Way For Me 7 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 8/06/07 (RB&T) Up chimney onto stack of blocks. Move out R onto blunt arête. Up moving back L. 0. On Wings of Fire 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Huge off width open book awesome!. My Promised Land 7 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 8/06/07 (RB&T) Up LH arête of shield, up on good rails.. Project - ~4 (4RB&T) 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

72 There is a huge dangerous loose block that needs to be pushed on this route.. Push to Go 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Start in chimney, break L. 4. Pull to Go 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Start same as Push to Go, break right. 5. Imperfect 6 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 6//07 (T) Up shallow recess in small L facing face, onto ledge. Up steps to R of crack. 6. Spout Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Chimney. 7. Immortal Rider 9 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 6/06/07 (RB&T) Start in the LH off-width. 4m up, break R onto rails. Up middle of face. 8. Whale Tail Crack 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Off width into perfect crack on R & chimney to the L. 9. Project - ~ 6 (RB&T) Up the very thin crack Whale Bone 0. Sea Breeze 8 Gavin Raubienheimer & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Prominent deep crack.. Tom Cat 4 Gavin Peckham & Gavin Raubienheimer 00 (T) Thin R trending cracks. m R of Sea Breeze.. Dat Thing 6 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Thin crack, past loose looking rock.. Double Cam VW 4 Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 6//06 (T) Up R curving ridge crack, then up breaks to the top. Bit short. 4. Rise of ARCC Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 6//06 (T) Up steps then up off width. 5. Now You see Me, Now You Don t 4 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 6//06 (T) Up steps, then up small side face & arête. 6. My Pregnant Aunt 0 Derek Marshall & Johnathan Wiggly 00 (T) Short crack. 7. Allen Old Soul 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6//06 (T) Up cracks below RH arête next to My Pregnant Aunt. Directly up the arête. Bit 8 short, but fun Indian Swell - Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 6//06 (T) Up steps then into short open book Whale Bone 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

73 Khoekhoen Ledge This is a narrow ledge, about 5 metres above the sea. The routes are on the shortish dolorite band above the ledge. Abseil or walk-in. The ledge is reasonably good, but please consider it dangerous. Care must be taken! Park on the seaward corner of The 5 th Headland closest to DM. Decend the grasy seaward spur. Find a large freestanding boulder. Fix an ab rope to this boulder. This is a sweet, but intimidating location. Place protection for your belayer! Not for windy days or high tide. Khoekoen Ledge. No More Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) This is the first crack from the MB end of the ledge. Climb the crack to gain the V crack.. God s Way 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Climb the crack to the big samosa. Then into the off width.. Wandering Breeze Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Perfect, short, easy crack. 4. Let s Move On 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Awesome crack after a LH Traverse e Tavern of the Seas Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Climb the blocky line 4m L of Wandering Breeze. 6. Fire Woman 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Start in open book behind blocks. WALK IN All routes start on Hottentots Ledge which a ledge running through the shale about 4m above the sea. The first few meters is on shale. Care must be taken. Consider this area dangerous. 7. Inqua 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Broken open book then climb the broken blocks. Do not repeat. 8. Sugar Talker 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Line to the L. Easy looking shale, onto big dolorite off width. 9. Mr Perfect 5 Derek Marshall & Tim Loft 00 (T) Start in the open book formed of loose blocks. This is total crap and very dangerous. There is no good gear for the belayer. This sector is reached by the same abseil as mentioned above. 0. Gonaqua Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Climb the perfect lay back just L of corner.. Your Kingdon 6 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Open book crack.. Sonic Temple 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Start in the off width. Head up and L.. Eland 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Perfect curving crack. Then move L into tricky fatter crack. 4. Born Again 9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) 7 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

74 L of large overhanging block, then into huge chimney. Through a very tight squeeze hole. This is for the brave and the very slim. Five litres of olive oil or a big jar of vaseline might become nessary. Khoekoen Ledge Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

75 The Tusk This is a magic free standing pillar, shaped like a tusk, on the DM side of The 5 TH Headland. Abseil into Jockless and Walruss Crack or use the scurry hole to scramble down.. Vuil Uil 4 Tyson Baars & Derek Marshall 7//07 (T) Up short L facing stepped open book.. Lets Move On 7 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman 7//07 (T) Up ramp arête, over the ledge & continue up t he ramp.. Jockless 9 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Open book onto the ledge. Across the ledge into the chimney. May have to be climbed in pitches. 4. Walruss Crack 0 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Awkward off width to top of tusk. Abseil and flick rope from the top Desperate Dan Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Perfect crack. Up ledges tend left to top of tusk. Abseil and flick rope from the top. 6. Legion of the Damned 8 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Off width crack. 7. Tavern of the Seas 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Open book on to face. 8. Wibly Wobblies 7 Derek Marshall & Noémie Pelletier 7/06/07 (T) Up the off width. The Tusk 6/7 5 The next routes are on a small splat of rock higher up & more seaward. 9. Imperfect Thing Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 7//07 (T) Up LH boulder, step over ledge & up crack. 0. Embrace Imperfection - Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 7//07 (T) Up crack, over ledge & step L into crack.. Child of God Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars 7//07 (T) Up perfect short crack. The Tusk The Tusk Scurry Hole 75 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

76 Bay of Plenty This is the sweep of rock above and slightly inland of The Tusk.. Choking the Dassie 4 Up short chimney. Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester 7//06 (T). My Evil Ways 8 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars 7/06/07 (T) 4 Bay of Plenty Up ramp, then up blocky rails, rail L & up on the middle of the face to the L.. Rider on The Wind 9 //4 Juan-dray Marshall & Noémie Pelletier 7/06/07 (T) 5 Up ramp, then up blocky rails At the last rail L & directly 6 up the middle of the face. 4. Panzer Grenadier 9 7 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 7//06 (T) 8 Up ramp, then up blocky rails, rail R & up on the arête. 5. Marsgereed 7 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown 7//06 (T) Up ramp break, step R on ledge into off width. 6. Soon To Be Gone 5 Tyson Baars & Ruben Snyman 7//06 (T) Up broken crack over a ledge, up a crack break. Bamba to the top. 7. Three in One 9 Gavin Peckham 5//00 (S) 4 Fairly far to the L of SS General. Climb slab to large ledge. Move L across the ledge to climb crack in clean corner. 8. I Owe You Doubles Craig Bester & Ruben Snyman 9//06 (T) Up easy stepped ramp. 9. Commandment Garvin Jacobs & Ashton Dingle 7/06/07 (T) 0 Bay of Plenty Flaring crack, traverse L & around the corner. Up the arête on the LHS. 0. SS General 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Flaring crack, traverse R to top out.. Dinosaur Ridge Fin Garvin Jacobs & Ashton Dingle 7/06/07 (T) Up bulging arête onto the dinosaur ridge fin.. Hanging Over There 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Short chimney.. Mannie Poser 6 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall 9//06 (T) Bay of Plenty Up off width formed by huge camed block. Up rails to top. 4. Leg Over - 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester (T) Short chimney. 5. Liquidate Paris - 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start on ledge behind banana trees,small roof Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

77 6. Prosperity - 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Start right of Liquidate Paris, round the corner and down, crack piters out near the top. 7. Lay Back Trad 6 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Wide crack left of open book. 8. Show Me The Way 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Open book. 9. Walking Giant 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Blocky stack to the R. 0. Burning Hearts 5 Tyson Baars & Noémie Pelletier 7/06/07 (T) Up the arête, moving L near the top. Slippery When Wet This small, some what short crag is found on the DM side of The 5 th Headland. About 40m landward of The Tusk and 5m below Bay of Plenty.. Wild Man - The Wild Man 00 (S) Chimney.. Delicious Malicious Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 00 (T) Thin tricky moves at the start.. Mr Perfect 0 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Start in short open book. Move through the roof and finnish left. 4. Black Mermaid 0 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Perfect chimney between huge flake and main crag. 5. What You See 4 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) More than easy chimney scarmble on the sea ward face. Very short. 6. What You Get 5 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Easy crack climb on the sea ward face. Very, very short. 4 Slippery When Wet This is the short easy crag below and seaward of the previous 8 routes. 7. Slippery When Wet Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Climb the off width to the roof. Climb R to exit roof. 8. Tunnel Rat Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Up chimney crack into chimney cave. 9. Snaking the Mates 7 Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Awesome lay back flake on DM side. 0. Seal Harasment 7 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Short off width onto ledge. DM side. 77 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

78 Made to Fit This sector runs discontinusly between Lower Sippery When Wet and Pivotal Motion. There is potential for a few more hard bolted routes.. Made to Fit 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Climb blocky open book steps on land ward side.. PROJECT 6 Derek Marshall (8B&C) Bolted in about 00. These bolts are old & dangerous.. PROJECT 7 Derek Marshall (C only) To the R of (). Only top chains at this stage. Bolted in about 00. These bolts are old & dangerous. 4. Fit as a Fiddle 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Easy crack L of open book. Made To Fit 5. Fit as a Porksta Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Big open book. 6. Porksta Endurance 6 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Fist crack open book, into off width. 7. Exact a Mondo 4 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) Diagonal crack system through easy ramp. 8. Better Days 0 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 00 (T) This route is away to the R of the rest. Climb the fat undercut off width crack. Will need 6 Friend to protect. Short, but sweet! 9. One Alone 5 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 5//00 (T) Situated on it own to the R of Better Days. Climb the RH arete. 78 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

79 Pivotal Motion Although this area is short it has some potential for harder bolted routes.. Pivotal Motion 4 Gavin Peckham & Buggs Sprouse 00 (T) On MB side. Start R of arete. Move L onto arete. Then onto ledge.. Triumph of Steel Derek Marshall Allen Luck May 00 (5B&C) Pivotal Motion Bolted in about 00. These bolts are old & dangerous.. The Gladiator 0 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Awkward off width through roof. 4. Anti Terror 8 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 00 (T) Open book to top of pinnical. 5. Noodle Attack 4 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) Prominent broken crack to L of open book. Booze Cruise This is the small sector directly above Just A Breeze.. Booze Control Craig Bester & Allen Luck 00 (T) Start L of twin cracks. Top out in LH crack.. Booze Cruise Buggs Sprouse & Gavin Peckham 09/0/00 (T) There are two obvious parallel crack lines towards the left-hand end of this crag. Booze Cruise takes the LH crack line.. Trad Intoxicated 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) Smooth perfect chimney. L of large hanging chock stone. Booze Cruise 79 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

80 Just a Breeze This is a short section of rock to the R of Smooth Operator. See topo for route locations.. Just a Breeze Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Climb chimney to ledge. Then nd chimney to top of block.. Angst 7 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 5//00 (T) Seaward blunt arête. This is a hi-ball route with no gear (zero). Marshall, having more to live for, refused to follow.. Small Fry Derek Marshall & Gavin Peckham 00 (T) Start in easy crack. Top out on large boulder, then jump from the top. Just a Breeze Just a Breeze Smooth Operator This is the last small piece of rock as the 5 th headland curves down towards DM. The routes were scrambled without ropes, but have fairly good grass landings.. Forked Tongue 5 Gavin Peckham 5//00 (S) Climb the crack with the large wedged block on the DM side. Go L or R where crack splits.. Smooth Operator 9 Gavin Peckham & Derek Marshall 09/0/00 (T) Climb the seaward face starting on the rock shelf, past two pockets to the top. There is no gear what so ever. Smooth Operator 80 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

81 Outlaw Crag Driving towards DM, just after the dairy (square building to the R), pass through a gate. Outlaw Crag is in the river valley to the R. Although it is not fenced off from the road & there is no indication that this private property..it IS however private property! The landowner definitely has a gun & so do his mates. We saw their guns! They were shooting at us. We suggest the next fellows who climb there contact him first, as he seems like he could be quite a nice fellow if you aren t trespassing on his land. By the way; there is a lovely spot at the top of the crag for a free camp. If you get busted for trespassing, don t mention the free camping, obviously! Unfortunately the routes are not to plentiful or wonderful. All are a bit short and crap. So don t bother unless you have finished all the rest. The climbed sector is a free stander separated from a cliff by a shallow gully.. Forgive Us Our Trespassing 4 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Up stepped blocks on the river side of free stander, to top of pinnacle.. Lucky Luke 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Up easy cracks to big ledge. Up crack. Traverse R to huge flake. Top out. Top Freestander River side 8 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall

82 Black Rock From the Double Mouth campsite, walk along the beach in the direction of East London. Cross the river. This may be best at low tide. But the river / lagoon is often blind, making it easy to cross on the sand bank. Continue across the gorgeous sandy beach to the dolerite out crops on the far side. The crags are short and sort of unimpressive, but not that bad if you are looking for some bouldering or a few easy routes. It s a nice walk with the family on that wasted compromise day. Take shoes & a chalk bag. There is an awesome largish round boulder with on reasonably tricky boulder problem set away from the crags. Problem is one that Derek Marshall attempted, but never got. This is worth playing on. These routes are on the largest looking out crop.. Cling to the Dream 4 Craig Bester & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Easy line on the far L.. Smart as Can Be 4 Craig Bester & Allen Luck July 00 (T) Easy steps breaking L.. Silent Symptoms 6 Allen Luck & Craig Bester July 00 (T) Inner chimney. Through hole in the roof. 4. Leopards & Lilies 7 Allen Luck & Craig Bester July 00 (T) Outer chimney. 5. Seal Struck 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall July 00 (T) Smooth chimney to the R of the prominent chimney. 4 S E Black Rock 5 8 Updated 8/08/08 Derek Marshall