1 Updated 09/02/2016 Derek Marshall

Transcription

1 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

2 LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or Mountain Club of South Africa. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! Port Elizabeth 30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulders Toorberg Swartberg Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi 44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop 2 Van Stadens 3 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn 3 PE urban crags & boulders 32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 5 Gamkaskloof Bouldering 4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 4 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 9 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip Groot Winterhoek 2 Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route 9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama 0 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags 2 Pinnacle Gorge East London 3 Cockscomb 34 NSA 4 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole 5 Nivera 36 Buffalo River Baviaans 6 Grips 7 Kudu Kaya 8 Waterkloof Grahamstown 25 Alicedale 26 Howieson's Poort 27 Moodies 28 Bouldering 29 Thornkloof 5 49 R62 50 Ladismith N2 Oudtshoorn Uniondale Willowmore 2 R62 24 N EASTERN CAPE CLIMBING VENUES Steytlerville R329 R322 9 Plettenberg Bay 5 22 Nieu Bathesda Graff-Reinet Patensie Middelburg N0 Cradock R75 6 Hankey Uitenhage Jeffreys Bay Tarkastud Stutterheim 39 Hogsback R63 King Williams Town Fort Beaufort N2 Alicedale R East London Port Elizabeth Aliwal North Queenstown Grahamstown N2 43 N6 Mthatha N Port St Johns Coffee Bay 46 More route guides can be found on ecrockclimbing.co.za NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. You are more than welcome to print out, or link to a web page this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to marshall@qsafrica.co.za. All information will be greatly appreciated. DIRECTIONS: From the R62 turn onto the gravel road to Onder-Kouga. Follow this road to a fork, take the RH option. Over the rugged mountain pass & cross the Kouga River. Follow the river for a few kilometers, then up a steep hairpin pass. On the level ground on top take a L where there is a sign post Kouga Wildernis. Follow this road down another steep pass to Kleinrivier farm. 2 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

3 After stopping at the farm house to make the necessary arraignments, continue up the valley for about.5km to a sweet piece of green grass.this is the campsite. Leopard Rock stands imposingly above the campsite. ACCESS: Kouga Wildernis is owned by Nico & Melodie Ferreira who have embraced climbing. They must be contacted to book accommodation There are no access restrictions. You would be expected to be a guest to be able to climb, but it is super remote. You would want to stay a few days. ACCOMMODATION: The Ferreira s have a super main camp site set in a secluded valley. They also have various superb cottages houses. The new campsite at Heuning Kranz has sport lines in the campsite & various sport lines within 5 minutes walk of the campsite. So take your pick, it s all good... you can t go wrong! GENERAL: This is an awesome spot to camp, climb & hangout with your family. There is a pool, ample green grass, 00 year old oaks for shade & a huge lapa. Totally crime free remote wilderness. Check out for all the details, rest day ideas and lots of pictures. ROCK TYPE: Sandstone & quartzite mix. 6 bolted routes and 99 trad routes. TIME & WEATHER: The crags close to the campsite are very sunny in summer. Wake up early (05H00) & get up there. Come down for siesta at H00. Climb again after 5H00. It s the only way. Kos sê Bos has shaded crags & caves, but the walk over the spur is seriously hot & must be done in the cool of the morning. STAR RATING SYSTEM Good route at this crag. Good route in the area. Classic route in this province. No star Reasonable to bollocks. ABBREVIATIONS & SYMBOLS 4 Bolted route T Trad route, natural gear 6B Number of bolts POTENTIAL: There is still a fair amount of potential for new routes. The writer is saving the knowledge of these for his own pleasure. C P Chains or top anchors Chains or top anchors Piton HAZARDS: Area is totally safe, but watch out for:. Snakes, these critters must be somewhere. 2. Leopards, Mr Ferreira loses sheep to leopards every year. They are there! 3. Baboons, stay way & never try to case them away or displace them. They are dangerous! 4. Sun & dehydration: climb early & late during summer. Siesta in the pool! 5. Don t mess with the farmer. 6. Don t make fires out of the campsite. This is a dry area & veld is money. (See point under environmental) 7. Quad & dirt bikes. Ja you go to jail if you string up a steel cable just to get some piece & RB Removable bolt Afternoon Shade Morning Shade Shade all day Sun all day Can be climbed in wet weather quiet. These guys are more irritating than dangerous. Check if the riders are from Uitenhage before telling them to quieten down. ENVIRONMENTAL: This place is unspoiled wilderness.. If you need to go to the toilet in the bush or at the crags, please bury your business well. Don t burn the toilet paper as this may set the veldt alight. 2. Don t scratch the walls or floor in the Bushman/San caves. It is illegal & the fine is R Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

4 HISTORY: Kouga Wildernis has an interesting history. There are San paintings & artifacts to be seen in the caves at Kos sê Bos. Mummified San skeletons have been found on neighboring farms. Mr Ferreira s family have farmed Kleinrivier since the 85. He will be happy to relate his family s history. Ask him about the leopards. The climbing was discovered, developed & championed by Bronwyn & Vincent Egan in 200. FERREIRA S KRANZ This is the un-miss able slab system just before the famer s house. Park & walk through the lands. FERREIRA S KRANZ Christmas Crescent 9 2m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/2/2005 (T) Perfect L facing L trending crescent open book. 2. In the Line of David 7 2m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/2/2005 (T) Indistinct slab open book. Gear is interesting. 3. Christmas Crackers 8 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/2/2005 (T) Perfect L facing open book. 4. Cracker Crackers 8 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 25/2/2005 (T) L facing open book to abseil tree. 4 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

5 THE INVISIBLE CRAG This is the first crag on the path to Leopard Rock. It is shaped like a boomerang. There are 7 lines recorded L to R. All the lines end on a large bomber tree above the highest point. Obviously this is an abseil tree. It s a bit loose and scary if you normally only climb sport chose another spot.. Societal Collapse 7 26m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) 3m R of prominent chimney open book, below a small free standing THE INVISIBLE CRAG pinnacle. Up to ledge. Move 2m L, then up prominent crack. 4m up move R onto broken arête. Top out to belay from large tree to the L. 2. Violation of the Norm 7 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/2/2005 (T) m L of the arête to the L of the prominent chimney open book. This is the primary line of this crag. 3. Shadow of Dreams 8 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/2/2005 (T) 2m L of Violation of the Norm. Crack system that runs R, out of small 5 roof. Continue up the arête. 4. Polyandry 7 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/2/2005 (T) Curving crack 3m L of Violation of the Norm. Runs L, out of small roof. 7 6 Moving R onto arête to avoid loose blocks Invisible Green m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/2/2005 (T) Up steps onto crap ledge. Move up steps to the L. Take the most stable looking line to the large tree. 6. Invisible Finger 5 27m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 20/2/2005 (T) LH & R-facing open book of large recess. Across large ledge. Then find the easiest line to tree. 7. Gain & the Gift Given 7 28m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 20/2/2005 (T) 2m L of Invisible Finger. Up L curving crack, onto a ledge. Up easy, broken, dangerous ground. Moving R to tree. As you will see this prominent crack which is visible from the camp site does not exist. 5 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

6 THE PINKY PURPLE WALL Awesome short slab. All the routes are a maximum of about 5m long. This is a sweet place to learn how too trad or re-fresh your trad legs. Easy 20 minute walk from the campsite. Will have early and late shade in summer. Would be best in mid-morning in winter. Easy walk-off or trees to abseil from. PINKY PURPLE WALL Don t Say a Word Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 2/2/2005 (T) Short crack onto first step on the arête. Passed the second step to the top. 2. Matrix 3 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Fist crack onto ledge. Then up jugs & east ground too second step in the edge. Up the arête to the top. 3. Whiter Shades of Purple 3 Allen Luck & Michael Johnson 6/09/200 (T) First break from the RH end of the crag. 4. Divine Aspirations 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) Up the face between the first & second breaks Shades of Purple 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) Second break. Becomes a V notch at the top. 6. Fanta Grape 8 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 6/09/200 (T) Start 2m L of 3 Shades of Purple. From rectangular hole 3m up, trend L. 7. Purple Pantihose Eater 9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) 6 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

7 Start 3m L of 3 Shades of Purple. Up hand crack that blanks out 3m up. Continue up blank slab over some horizontal rails. 8. Dried Apricot Farts 6 Steven Reed & Lozelle Du Plessis 6/09/200 (T) Start at prominent V. Up tiny L facing open book. Up too locked block to L trending zig zag. 9. Pensioner Pink 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Start 0.5m L of Dried Apricot Farts. Follow L trending intermittent crack. 0. Tastes Like Purple Chicken 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) Start 2.5m L of Dried Apricot Farts. Follow the crack directly above.. Deep Purple 6 Vincent & Bronwyn Egan 08/09/200 (T) Start 3m L of Dried Apricot Farts. Trend L into LH crack. 2. Delicious Pink 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) 2.5m R of small R facing jagged open book block. Look for a 4 inch R trending diagonal slot. Straight up the thin crack too the top. 3. In The Pink 7 Michael Johnson & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) m R of small R facing jagged open book block. Look for an awesome nut placement 2m above ground at the start. Crack improves above. 4. Passion For Purple 7 Bronwyn & Vincent Egan 6/09/200 (T) 7m R of huge flake. From the top of the block that forms a small R facing jagged open book block. Straight up too a tree on top. 5. Protestant Purple 5 Michael Johnson & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) 5.5m R of huge flake. Up indefinite crack to a slight L trending crack, passed a protruding block near the top. 6. Pink Panties 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) 4.5m R of huge flake. Up thin line with poor gear too a ledge. Continue up through middle of ledge. 7. Purple Beret 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) 3m R of huge flake. Up twin thin cracks. Move R into broken cracks. 8. Purple Pelican 9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) m R of huge flake. Start at the same point as Y2 the Left, but keep directly up. 9 Y2 the Right 5 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 6/09/200 (T) m R of huge flake. Start at the same point as Y2 the Left, move somewhat L into an off width. 20. Y2 the Left 5 Allen Luck & Michael Johnson 6/09/200 (T) m R of huge flake. Move far L at hollow, into hand crack. 2. Purple Turtle Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) Up off width between large flakes, then into same crack as Y2 the Left. 22. Wild Cherry 8 Michael Johnson & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (T) Start just L of huge flake. Straight up. 23. Sweet Temptation 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) 2.5m R of Purple Heart. Intermittent finger crack, that starts off cube. Crack ends on rail. Move 0.5m R into short finger crack. Run for the top. 24. Pink Desires 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T).5m R of Purple Heart.. Start in light crack. Straight up moving 0.5m L into short finger crack. 25. Purple Heart 4 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 6/09/200 (T) Dead straight finger crack. Move L into short curving off width. 7 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

8 26. Rocket Ride 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 2/2/2005 (T) Start in thin crack m L of Purple Heart. Crack steps slightly L twice. 26. Angry Purple Worm 4 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 2/2/2005 (T) Short finger crack that runs into arête. Stay R of arête. VINLAND Vinland Vinland is to the L of Leopard Rock. The routes are of a reasonable length & the rock is stable.. Freedom & Fortune 4 5m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T) Crack to the R of off width open book. Across ledge, up crack L of the arête. Belay at good abseil tree. 2. Pinky & the Brain 4 5m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 23/2/2005 (T) Crack between off width open book & finger crack. Up moving R across ledge to tree belay. 3. The Lonely Road of Fear 4 5m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 23/2/2005 (T) Up off width open book. Move R & up. 4. This is My Energy 3 23m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 23/2/2005 (T) Startup easy blank slab. Past some trees, staying L of off width. Then move R to tree on a ledge. 5. Silent Dream 3 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Startup easy slab that starts below the majority of the crag & becomes a pillar. Up easy crack system slightly R of the pillar. 6. Warriors of the Faith 4 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Startup easy slab that starts below the majority of the crag & becomes a pillar. Then up lovely easy crack to the top. 8 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

9 7. Legacy of Kings 3 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T) 6.5m R of inverted V roof. From the first ledge, move R into easy crack. 8. Breaking the Law 4 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T) 4.5m R of inverted V roof. Up finger crack with a few grass clumps. 9. Steel Meets Steel 5 7m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T) 2.5m R of inverted V roof. Up seemingly blank face. Pro becomes a concern. 0. Forces of Steel 4 23m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T).5m R of inverted V roof. Up past triangular block that forms a small roof. Straight up to notch at the top.. Turning Meadows into Graves 5 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T) Up hand crack above inverted V roof. Moving R into recess. Straight up. 2. Winter Waiting 5 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/2/2005 (T).5m L of inverted V roof. Up seemingly blank face. 3. New Found Land 4 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Off width R facing open book. Up crack above. 9 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

10 LEOPARD ROCK Leopard Rock is the prominent smooth wall set high above the campsite. This is where it all started at Kouga Wildernis. This area was pioneered by Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan in 200. Walk-in is on a good path made by the farmer & his men he is not one to mess about clearly.. Shadowman 5 Bronwyn & Vincent Eagan 06/0/200 (T) Easy trad crack up slab to good tree abseil. 2. Zwartkopsicht 4 Lozelle Du Plessis & Steven Reed 09/09/200 (T) Easy trad slab to tree abseil. 3. Meadowlands 4 Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan 08/09/200 (T) LEOPARD ROCK PINKY - PURPLE WALL WALK-IN Follow the line directly below the bolted line Ingwe. 4. Aloe Aloe 5 Steven Reed & Lozelle Du Plessis 08/09/200 (T) Similar to Walk in the Park, this route follows a diagonal line, trending R & ends at the base of the bolted line Ingwe. 5. Walk in the Park 4 Bronwyn & Vincent Eagan 6/09/200 (T) Up Thin vertical cracks on slab face, abseil off tree or walk off L on ledge. 6. I Have not Bin Laden Today 5 Lizanne & Bill Tucker 6/09/200 (T) P Up slab face to assess ledge. P2 continues all the way to the top. 7. House of Cards 7 Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan 06/09/200 (T) Loose & chossy. Avoid! 8. Wildlife 5 Matt Tranter & Vincent Eagan 30/09/200 (T) Startup R facing open book. 9. Striatablasta 5 Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan 08/09/200 (T) Easy slab trad with no surprises. 0. Blockout 6 Bronwyn & Vincent Eagan 06/0/200 (T) Easy indistinct pleasant line. 0 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

11 . Dom Kraag 9 Martin Rehm & Derek Marshall 06/0/2008 (9B&C) Bolted by Morne van der Mescht. 2. Operation Indwe 2 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 22/0/20 (T) Start at the same place as Ingwe. Up diagonally L, then straight up to the thin crack 2m L of the chains for Ingwe. Gear is limited. 3. Ingwe 2 Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan 6/09/200 (B&C) 4. Resistance 23 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 22/0/20 (2B&C) Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. 5. Ripped & Torn 2 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 23/0/20 (2B&C) 6. Unholy Terror 24 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 28/0.202 (2B&C) Extension above Ripped & Torn. 7. Protection Racket 20 Patrick Fraser & Karen Bedford 27/2/2006 (T) In the middle of the face up the obvious break, moving R near the top. Not much gear! 8. One Two One Zulu 20 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 6/09/200 (2B&C) 9. Purple Rage 7 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 5/09/200 (T) Prominent open book on the RH side of the face. 20. Helter Swelter 9 Bronwyn & Vincent Eagan 30/09/200 (T) Up the slab R of the Purple Rage open book, up a L of first roof. Up the open book to the next roof then up the arête. RAIN MAKER SECTOR These very easy routes are on the R of the lower wall..!kwerri-/nan 4 5m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Up the awesome crack just R of a stack of huge blocks that forms an off width. This crack is not visible from below & is ret in a recess between two open books Rain Makers 3 5m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/2/2005 (T) Up the arête to the L of an easy slab. 3. Children of the Rain 3 5m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Up middle of easy slab. 4. Water Snakes 3 8m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Prominent open book. 5. Santa Watches Granny Porn 3 6m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Up arête to the R of Water Snakes, move R to an abseil tree. 6. Pensioner Passion 7.5 6m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Very easy crack, totally awesome at the grade. 7. Wailing Granny 7.6 6m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall 7 8 9

12 I.5m R of Pensioner Passion. Also very easy. 8. Bleddy Boy 0 5m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) 3m R of Pensioner Passion. Up LH edge of slab. 9. Bleedie Boy 0 5m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/2/2005 (T) Up middle of slab. 2 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

13 HEUNING KRANZ Follow the track that leads up the kloof from the field below the main campsite. The track ends at what is known as the wilderness campsite. It is actually very civilized & provides good camping with flush toilet & hot showers. But keeps it s remote unspoiled setting. There is plenty of shade in summer & a very awesome natural swimming spot. The following routes are on a small face just before crossing the stream to the camping. Walk-in is 70m max.. End of the Rainbow 2 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (6B&C) 2. Enemy Within 22 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (6B&C) 3. Final Attack 7 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (6B&C) 4. Veiled Evil 5 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (6B&C) 5. Racoom 8 Terrance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (6B&C) The following route is above & R of the small face. 6. The Toyota Way 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (2B&C) On the fins to the L of the cave in the campsite.. Sliding Doors 4 2 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (T) Up the LH side of the fin, onto a ledge. Continue up to the top. 2. Higher Ground 7 Derek Marshall & William Lesley (6B&C) Up the R facing open book. Through the roves, stay on the RH fin. Move L to a ledge to with a good tree to abseil from. In the cave in the campsite. 3. Closed Project 27-ish (5B&C) Juan-dray Marshall 4. Closed Project 27-ish (5B&C) Juan-dray Marshall Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

14 5. Closed Project 26-ish (4B&C) Juan-dray Marshall 6. Let it Roar 2 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 7. Hate to Love Me 7 Juan-dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette (T) Easy crack to R. KOOS SÊ BOS Follow the path from behind the main cottage & over the spur. It is a long walk, especially if it is hot. Take water & a hat. The path is very good. The path moves from dry scrub into a lush kloof this is Kos Sê Bos. WATER VIR MY NATE YELLOWWOOD AMPITHEATER KOOS SÊ MA MORNETJIE EXCEPTION CAVE This is a prominent cave on the LH side of the stream if you are facing up stream. The farmer has allowed RED WALL climbers to hike in & sleep in the cave. This is a fair option. There are san paintings, artifacts & even human teeth in the cave. Please avoid scratching in the cave & note that it is illegal. EXCEPTION CAVE STREAM Routes are recorded downstream to up stream.. Eager Eagans 8 Bronwyn & Vincent Eagan /09/2003 (T&C) P. Start 3m L of LH arête of cave. Up a tiny R trending open book. Up a straight break to below a roof. P2. Move R into gully break & up to some chains. 2. A Place We Call the Zoo 9 Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan /09/2003 (T&C) P. m L of the LH arête of the cave, up crack, moving L to below a roof. P2. Move back R into gully break & up to some chains. 3. Except Morné 24 Morné van der Mescht & Vincent Eagan /09/2003 (T&C) 4m L of San hand print, up parallel cracks. Through the easiest looking break in the roof. 4. Break Dance 24 Morné van der Mescht & Vincent Eagan 9/0/2003 (T&C) 2m R of San hand print, up prominent break, just L of the arête. Funny pockets to an old tree on a ledge. 5. Taking a Dump 8 Derek Marshall & Bill Tucker 7/09/200 (T) Just outside the cave on the upstream side. P. Up R facing off width open book. Move m L onto open book below the roof. Through the roof to a belay ledge. P2. Easy scramble to the top. Move down stream to find the abseil chains of Eager Eagans. 6. Accept Us 5 Dricus Bezuidenhout, Magnus & Viera Wagener 30/2/2005 (T) P 5 On the small buttress R large yellowwood. P2-4 Across some grassy slopes up small L facing open book on the RH side of small buttress. Move up a series of stepped open books. 4 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

15 RED WALL 75m upstream of the cave, the red Wall is prominent.. Heaven & Hell 20 Morné van der Mescht, Vincent & Bronwyn Eagan 26/0/2003 (T) P m Prominent layback crack, start just L of base of prominent nose. Up to a tree on the bridge of the nose. P2 7 20m From the bridge of the nose, keep on up to base of open book. P m Up the open book to a large ledge. P4 4 30m Scramble up easy flakes to belay spot on top. Walk off in downstream direction. 2. Surrender or Die 8 Dricus Bezuidenhout & Magnus Wagener 30/2/2005 (T) P 8 9m R of nose & just R of prominent red open book before the face gets steep. Up jutting block that bridges roof, moving L to trees. Then up short square groove & R onto large square ledge. P2 6 From large square ledge move L onto front of small protrusion. Up crack in the middle of protrusion, not a large square ledge with large block. Abseil from this block. 3. Invasion 7 Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoelzmann 30/2/2005 (T) P 4 2m Same start as Surrender or Die. Move R into R facing open book. Move further R onto a ledge under the steep part. P2 5 2m Traverse L & up through the open book, onto the same square ledge as P2 of Surrender or Die. P3 7 3m From the square ledge, up RH R facing open book. Traverse trending up & R over a series of square roves to a point where the roves diminish, below a short L facing open book. P4 6 34m Traverse 4m L under roves into a square groove to a fricking crap ledge. Move L into R facing open book. Top out & scramble/walk 50m upstream on a spur. CUTE CRAG CUTE CRAG Very short routes on a small crag on the LH side of the stream, just past the red wall Like -2 Craig Bester & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T) Just L of LH arête. 2. Yummy 4 Craig Bester & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T) Jagged line L of nose. 3. Snow White 5 Craig Bester & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T) Prominent R facing open book. 4. Creamy 6 Craig Bester & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T).5m R of prominent R facing open book. 5 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

16 MORNETJIE This is a very small crag on the RH side of the stream. The front face drops into the stream.. The Morne 6 Morné van der Mescht & Craig Bester 30/2/2005 (T) R facing open book to L of chimney. 2. Lekker dik Gat 4 Craig Bester & Morné van der Mescht 30/2/2005 (T) Prominent chimney. 3. Sweetness 5 Craig Bester & Morné van der Mescht 30/2/2005 (T) L facing wide open book. R of prominent chimney. 4. Cool-erigga 6 Morné van der Mescht & Craig Bester 30/2/2005 (T) Up R trending, R facing overhanging open book MORNETJIE KOOS SÊ MA Tiny crag 60m upstream of Mornetjie. KOOS SÊ MA. Lekker Ding 7 Michael & Monique Lemmer 30/2/2005 (T) Prominent line on a slab face that juts out to the stream on the RH side of the stream. 6m R of blunt jagged arête. Up prominent hand crack through roves 4m up. Continue up till trees. YELLOW WOOD AMPITHEATER Opposite a short pinnacle on the RH side of the stream. The crag starts with a overhang & remains overhanging. Small San paintings near the beginning.. New age Bushmen 8 Morné van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T) Start up a L curving overhanging hand & fist crack. 2. I Knew a Bushman 7 Morné van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 30/2/2005 (T) On upstream side of pinnacle up two open books on top of each other. Up to the base of the pinnacle. These routes are some where close to the pinnacle on the upstream side. 3. Gone Fishing 5 5m Michael & Monique Lemmer 30/2/2005 (T) Upstream side of the pinnacle. 4. Should have Wanked Off 8 28m Michael & Monique Lemmer 30/2/2005 (T) Upstream of the pinnacle. Not a wonderful line. 6 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall

17 WATER VIR MY NATE WATER VIR MY NATE From the cave keep going up stream. 5 minutes past the first pinnacle at the first grassy clearing, just past a huge yellowwood. On the RH side on a jutting semi free standing protrusion. P 8 On the lower portion of the downstream face, climb the straight finger crack. Two thirds the way up the face, traverse R into prominent open book. Up this & R to a good belay ledge. P2 A0 Traverse L under a block, through a cubby & onto a ledge. Up a short easy section. Abseil down to a walk-off on the upstream side of the semi free stander. SKRIKRIVIER DIRECTIONS: From the R62 turn onto the gravel road to Onder- Kouga. Follow this road to a fork, take the RH option. Over the rugged mountain pass & cross the Kouga River. In the valley find a modern farm house on the L. Immediately before this farm house is a gate & a bouldery track follow this for 2km to an abandoned farmstead. Park. Walk back to the river. Walk upstream for about 45 minutes till the path is blocked by a deep crystal pool, between two ribs of rock.. Golgotha 6 Gavin Stewart & Don Maclennan Easter 984 (T) SKRIKRIVIER ABANDONDED FARM/PARK P 0 5m Take the easiest line from the water s edge to the platform. Walk to the vertical rib. P2 6 25m Climb the recess L of the rib, up then R, climb the front of the rib to a ledge with a bush. P3 0 20m Travers R using the obvious ledge for hands. Near the corner the ledge is very loose. Up the corner with trees. A more direct 3 rd pitch begs to be done & there is a stuck friend in the middle of the 2 nd pitch. CRAG MODERN FARM HOUSE MOUNTAIN PASS JOUBERTINA R62 POOL 7 Updated 09/02/206 Derek Marshall