1 Updated 17/04/2017 Derek Marshall

Transcription

1 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

2 LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or any other body. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information, with a beer, at the computer. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! Port Elizabeth 0 Coombs Gorge 7 EL urban crags & boulders Toorberg Swartberg Lady's Slipper Amatolas 8 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi Graff-Reinet 9 Towerkop Van Stadens Fort Fordyce 9 Lalapanzi 5 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn PE urban crags & boulders Hogsback 0 Morgan Bay Transkei 5 Gamkaskloof Bouldering Sleepy Hollow Stutterheim Bola 6 Hole in the Wall 5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 7 Hill of Execution 6 Kirkwood 9 Nguniland Mary & Martha 8 Port St Johns 7 Cape St Francis 0 Kouga Wildernes Hangklip Groot Winterhoek Uniondale Pass 8 Tygerhoek Garden Route 9 Naga's Kloof Titzikama 0 Eagle Gorge Groot Rivier Momentum Gorge Plett Crags Pinnacle Gorge East London Cockscomb NSA Grootbos & Kleinbos 5 Windmill Hole 5 Nivera 6 Buffalo River Baviaans 6 Grips 7 Kudu Kaya 8 Waterkloof Grahamstown 5 Alicedale 6 Howieson's Poort 7 Moodies 8 Bouldering 9 Thornkloof 5 9 R6 50 Ladismith N Oudtshoorn Uniondale Willowmore R6 N9 8 0 EASTERN CAPE CLIMBING VENUES Steytlerville R9 R 9 Plettenberg Bay 5 Nieu Bathesda Graff-Reinet Patensie 8-7 Middelburg N0 Cradock R75 6 Hankey Uitenhage 5 Jeffreys Bay Tarkastud Stutterheim 9 Hogsback 0 8 R6 King Williams Town Fort Beaufort N Alicedale R67-7 East London Port Elizabeth Aliwal North Queenstown Grahamstown N N6 Mthatha N 7 8 Port St Johns Coffee Bay 6 More route guides can be found on easterncaperockclimbing.co.za NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. You are more than welcome to print out, or link to a web page this guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to marshall@qsafrica.co.za. All information will be greatly appreciated. DIRECTIONS: From the N towards Cape Town, take the Van Stadens Pass off ramp, then turn R towards Rocklands/Uitenhage. After about 5km the road crosses a rail track. Soon after the rail track turn L sharply on to a wide dirt road. Drive past the Lady s Slipper & Falcon Rock. Continue along the dirt for about.5km. At the T junction turn R & then L. Continue to a gate that says No Entry. Park on the L about 00m before the warden s house. Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

3 ACCESS: This is Nelson Mandela Metro Municipality land. You are supposed to have a permit to enter. These are free, but must be obtained from the municipal offices during week days & office hours that is before you arrive to climb. Please be supper pleasant and polite to the warden. This is important. The water is intended for drinking in PE. DO NOT piss, wash or fish in the dam! All ablutions to be done on flat ground well away from the dam. Let s behave & keep access open. ACCOMMODATION: Falcon Rock & High Brae on the Lady s Slipper Road have camping & cottages. No camping is allowed in the gorge. GENERAL: Bring a costume in summer. Plenty of swimming spots & some sweet deep water bouldering. ROCK TYPE: Quartzite. Mostly steep to overhanging. 68 bolted pitches and 6 trad routes. The trad is on average very mediocre. TIME & WEATHER: Van Stadens crags are have different aspects, so there is all year round climbing. Cleopatra, Platform & The Beach can potential be climbed in wet miserable weather. Even in extremely pathetic weather Cleo has been climbable. Poop Scoop & Platform dry quickly & have limited seep. Sabaton, Easter Bunnie s, Mantis & Raven Shadow are the only shaded crags. Van Stadens is a river with hundreds of swimming spots to cool off in. There is some fun deep water bouldering for those days when it is really too hot. The river comes up after very heavy rain. Study this guide & choose your crag for the day well. POTENTIAL: There is still a fair amount of potential for new routes. The writer is saving the knowledge of these for his own pleasure. HAZARDS: Area is totally safe, but watch out for:. Bees, these are a serious hazard. There are swarms hiving at Kargen, The Beach. Take real care. There can be bees in a hive, only 00 stings will kill the average man. Bees are especially active & agitated on hot still days.. Snakes, lots of puffadders have been seen over the years.. Leopards, Nobody has seen one, but they are there!. Baboons, stay way & never try to chase them away or displace them. They are dangerous! 5. Sun & dehydration: climb early & late during summer. Siesta in the pool! 6. Don t mess with the Water Affairs Warden or his people, they will chase you away. 7. Don t make fires! ENVIRONMENTAL: Van Stadens is unspoiled awesome wilderness. Don t tell anybody, let s keep it a secret.. If you need to go to the toilet in the bush or at the crags, please bury your business well. Don t burn the toilet paper as this may set the bush alight.. Please set an example & carry out any litter you come across. It is honestly only us climbers who give a shit about the gorge. Let s keep it beautiful. Smokers we know it s not you guys throwing down stompies, obviously it s the non-smokers who throw down other people s stomies to show smokers as the bad guys. So please if you see a nonsmoker throwing down a stompie please confront, kak them out & make sure they carry out your stompies. Stompies are gross & don t belong in nature. HISTORY: There are a few Koisan/Bushman paintings in the climbing areas. Nothing spectacular, but please don t touch, wet, damage or bolt close to them if you do manage to find them. Not much is known about who first climbed in Van Stadens. Probably the first climbing was at Woodridge. School Rocks has seen continuous action, mostly on top Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

4 rope, through all the years from about 965. Access to develop new lines at Woodridge was given in 05. This quickly led to the sweetest beginners sport crag in Port Elizabeth area. In 98 Andrew Forsyth top roped some routes at what is now Easter Bunnies Secret Hideout & later top anchors were added. Michael Rohwer, Bradly Twig, Andrew Wesson, Craig Reynolds, Donald White & Richard van der Merwe are responsible for the initial lines at Cleopatra & The Beach in the 80s. Old top anchors were found at Poop Scoop, Platform & a very rusted piton at Eland Spoor. These crags were then lost & forgotten. The Beach was re-discovered by Morne van der Mescht, who together with Derek Marshall started re-bolting & bolting new lines in 00. The Beach was basically the only crag that saw any climbing between 00 & 006. This stopped in 006 when the sandy base was washed away by a flood. Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold put down a few sport lines at Trek Africa & Apple Express in the early 000s. The 009 Rock n Road inspired the bolting of the rest of Cleopatra & then the current wave of sport climbing in van Stadens. Vast majority of the bolts at van Stadens were sponsored by Derek Marshall who also bolted majority of the routes. Contents Page Page Page Page Page 6 Poop Scoop 5 Sabaton Easter Bunnie's 9 UFO Pinnacle 5 Flower Reserve 9 Fool's Castle 7 Kargen & Mantis The Beach 0 Blackout 6 Woodridge 0 Prophet s Cave 8 Forever 5 Platform La Douche 8 Slayer The Shelter 9 Cleopatra 6 Raven Shadow Apple Express 0 Raven Age Eland Spoor Lower Cleo 6 Loppit Troll Pump House Rosetta 7 Pipe Bridge Trek Africa Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

5 Lower Van Stadens Dam Weir Park Water Affairs Warden's House Train Bridge Park Park Park 5 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

6 Poop Scoop Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical pylon. Find the path that drops down the gully 0m after the pylon. Scramble down & around the corner for about 70m to Poop Scoop. The routes from R to L. Poop Scoop. Fire at Will 7 m Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 00 (B&C). Over the Seven Seas - 9 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C). Seventh Son Of a Seventh Son 0 m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 00 (5B&C). Palace of Fantasy m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 00 (5B&C) 6 5. Open Project -ish 7 m Bolted Joe Mohle (B&C) Avenge m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 00 (B&C) 7. King of Paradise Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (B&C) 8. What If I 8m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 00 (8B&C) 9. Closed Project 0-ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (7B&C) 0. Burning Sky Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C). The Fire Burns Forever Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Poop Scoop Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

7 . Smile of the Sun 9 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C). Let the Hammer Fall 8 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (B&C). Koevoet 9 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 5. Au-BH!! Dricus Bezuidenhout & Derek Marshall (T) Up to the Koevoet, break through onto ledge. Up to L of arête. 6. Victory & Sacrifice Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) 7. Touch & Go, Oh, Oh, Oh! Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) 8. Creatures of the Underworld Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 9. The Ultimate Sin Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 0. People of the Eland 0 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C). Metal Minds 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (5B&C). Gevegsgereed 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (6B&C). Protean 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up open book, through ledges & through the roof to L of chains of Gevegsgereed. Belay from ledge above chains of Gevegsgereed.. The Toyota Way - 0 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Start a few meters L of Gevegsgereed in an off width open book. Into the slightly overhanging R facing open book at the top. Top out about m L of chains of Gevegsgereed. 5. Desired by the Night 7 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Broken ledges into crack system, onto a further ledge. Through the roof above. 6. Battle Field Shining Red 8 m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.06.0 (T) Up onto sloping ledge. Move L to a heuco cubby hole, up on jugs. Gear is surprisingly good. 7. Dragon is Bleeding 8 m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.06.0 (T) Obvious geared break, directly below a good abseil tree. 8. Living in the Shadows 8 m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.06.0 (T) Up to L of tree, continue up break past seemingly loose blocks. Move R to belay from good tree. 9. Will You See the Light 8 5m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.06.0 (T) Up obvious break with defined gear hand crack above the middle of the route. Up face, then scramble to a tree. The following routes are on the lower level. 0. Moenie Vok n Skaap Nie Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Easy ramp just L of the tea spot.. Under Scrutiny Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Non-descript line up rock.. A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.06.0 (T) P 8 - m Start below a shallow L facing open book. Directly up, over the path & through an inviting overhang to a belay point. P 8-5m Up jagged overhanging break on RH side. Up moving L to belay on large terrace. P 8-9m Up break on RH side, into crack rail above the block.. Eternal Dark 7 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Start m R of A Fool & His Hummer Soon Parted. Up on sweet rails, directly up to belay on the path.. Will you Run to the Paradise 9 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Jutting out stepped tiny open book, move up to the ramp & force through an awkward roof mantle. 5. Steek Plaas 8 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) 7 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

8 Twin L trending diagonals over ledges, move R on steep face. Above rail m R to break in roof. 6. Fidelity Enforcement 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Start m R of Steek Plaas, up direct start on rails, over broken ramp to cracked break at the top. 7. Are You on Boom 8 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (T) R facing jagged open book. Up jagged steps to a jutting break. Directly up from this. The next routes are on the lowest level. 8. Heart for the Revolution 8 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) LH L trending juggy break. Short, but cool line. 9. The Bell Tolls For Terence 9 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (B&C) 0. Rescue Knobs 5m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up crack in ramp arête. Over the top.. Rainbow Flavored Puppy Kisses 8 Megan Banner & Manu Nicklaus (5B&C). Mobilitate Vincere Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C). Escalation of Expectation Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C). At The End of the Rainbow 0 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) P Poop Scoop P Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

9 Fool s Castle Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. About 80m up the spur there is a slight shoulder that indicates a ravine. Down this to Fool s Castle. It is not a very good area, but has some easy trad.. Fool s Castle m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) This is a sort of a free stander the on the gorge side of the ravine. Up the jagged sharp arête to a recliner shaped top. The following are on the ramp face on the PE side of the ravine.. Ship of Fools m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Smooth slab with tiger stripes to twin parallel R trending cracks, m R of R facing open book.. King of the Fools 6 Fools Castle 6m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) m L of arête, up the middle using rails.. Fool s Paradise 8 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Start in L facing open book, onto small ledge, up crack that starts R of small roof. 5. Fool s Gold 8m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Start in L facing L curving off width open book. Up broken open book to the top. 6. Free Fool 8m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up rails m L of Fool s Gold, up RH side of square-ish block, to the top. 7. Dr Feel Good 6 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 5.5m L of Fool s Gold, up through RH side, moving L of block at the top. Fools Castle Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

10 Prophet s Cave Park & walk-in as for Poop Scoop. Continue along the ledge & keep traversing till you reach Prophet s. There are also various boulder problems at Prophet s Cave.. Stinky Steering Wheel 8m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) 0m before Prophet s Cave. Easy, broken, longest & most prominent line up this small face. P. So Hungry & So Lean 9 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (T) Scramble up to the start, about m above the level of Prophet s Cave. Up on sloping ledges, directly below the impressive roof with the R facing open book on the LH side. At the roof rail R & into a R facing open book. Up this open book, then back L onto & around the 6 5m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club (T) Up easy scramble onto ledge. Up to R of open book. arête onto the face. Up to large belay ledge. Prophet's Cave 7. Big Al 6 5. Super Adventure Club 5 5m Allen Luck & Super Adventure Club (T) Start at the base of L trending L facing open book. Up steps to L trending diagonal. Up to the top. 5. Trance Prophet 6 m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) Up L facing L trending open book. Break out & straight up to nose. Move L & up small face. 6. Prophet of Profit 7 Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) P 7-7m Start over the lowest point of the cave. Up to a L curving open book roof. Move L & using the arête, up to ledge. P - m Up sweet face to the top. 7. Closed Project -ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) The following routes are above the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave 8. Gardian Angel 6 Terence Trevaskis & Tyson Baars (T) To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move R onto easier ground, then move back L to avoid roves. 9. I Had a Dream - 7 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) To R of cave that caps the gully to the L of Prophet s Cave, start up to R of cave. Move up & L onto nice clean rock, then back R to go through the roves. The following routes are on the buttress to the L of Prophet s Cave. 0. Never Run Free 6 Derek Marshall, Crag Bester & Tyson Baars (T) On the RH side of the buttress, up over clean ramps to ledge. Rail L on ledge to arête & up onto top.. Judge & the Jury 8 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) 0 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

11 Start R. Up on good face, directly up. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a bollard, belay from a further bollard.. Killer Sessions 7 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) On the face on the end of the buttress. Start at the LH & lowest point for the face. Up on good face, trend R & up to a large tree. Move onto face on the R of the tree, to a large horn. Past the horn & a bollard, belay from a further bollard.. Renegade 5 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) The route is roughly in the middle of the up-stream face. Up a R facing open book, past a wattle on a ledge. Abseil from the top from tat on a bollard. Eland Spoor Prophet's Cave Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

12 Shelter Park at the normal car park, walk towards the gorge. Take the track that forks R at the garage. Follow this to an electrical pylon. Find the path that goes up the spur. Shelter is clearly visible.. Kellogg's Flakes - 8 Erbert Nel & Alex Bester Dec 06 (5B&C) Bolted by Stephan Kramer.. 000km in the Wrong Direction 5 Alex Bester & Erbert Nel Dec 06 (6B&C) Bolted by Stephan Kramer.. Traits of a Misled Youth 7 Joe Mohle & Clinton Martingo 009 (T) Prominent crack through roof.. Maak n Beweeging 7 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (T) Start m L of prominent diagonal L trending crack. Rail out on flake. Up into L trending thin crack onto face above. Straight up to the top. 5. Op Staan 7 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (T) m L of Maak n Beweeging, rail out under roof, slightly l into inverted V, straight up. The following are on a crag that is set back a few meters behind The Shelter. 6. The Blackened Sun 7 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up big open book, step R on ledge. Up small face on rails. Exit roof through V notch. 7. Dimensions 7 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up prominent break, moving L on ledge to exit. 8. Light up the Sky 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up steps to under a large roof. Move L onto jagged arête. Up onto ledge to the R. Up L trending overhanging open book. Move round the corner onto the easy ramp to the top. Shelter Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

13 Eland Spoor About 00m L & at a slightly lower altitude from Shelter is Eland Spoor. Two prominent grey faces split by a chimney.. Terra Smaak Vet Gat Tannies Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up the jagged RH arête.. Blood Potency 6 Eland Spoor Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up the arête on the L of the RH face.. Blood Line Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Up broken middle crack system.. Un-known Hunter (T) There is an old piton on this route. Unsure who opened this line that goes directly through the middle of the LH face. 5. Passing the Buck Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (T) Start at the lowest point of the LH face, gain the arête. 5 Follow the arête to the top. Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

14 Pump House Pump House is at the bottom of the concrete road.. The Rising Force 5 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up just L of the open book.. Rock Bottom 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up the middle of the face.. Shoot - 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Up on the arête.. Too Hot to Handle - 5 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Follow the gear up the middle of the face. 5. Tallulah 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) From the edge of the ledge, move up & L into the R trending open book. 6. On Your Knees 7 m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 7. Shoot em Down 7 m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (B&C) 8. Hero Takes a Fall m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall July 00 (0B&C) 9. Charlie Chop Stick Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (T) Follow the short perfect ramp crack to the chains at the top of the sport routes. 0. Punk Ass 5m Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C). Closed Project 7-ish 5m Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C). Closed Project 9-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C). Animal Instinct 6 5m Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0..0 (7B&C). Damnation Angel Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (6B&C) 5. Drive By Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (6B&C) 6. Closed Project 6-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall 7. Closed Project 6-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall Pump House 6/ Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

15 Sabaton Sabaton is the slither of rock that you see on the other side of the river as you walk down the concrete road.. Smoking Snakes 8 Terence Trevaskis & Ruben Snyman.0.07 (6B&C). Reign of Terror 8 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall (5B&C). Rise of Evil 7 Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester.0.07 (B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall.. Sparta Craig Bester & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 5. Far From the Fame - Ruben Snyman & Craig Bester.0.07 (T) Up steps & edge to R of. 6. Wehrmacht - Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 7. Coat of Arms - Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (0B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. Sabaton Midway - 9. All Guns Blazing - 0. Last Dying Breath. Lost Battalion. Metal Crüe Derek Marshall & Craig Bester.0.07 (0B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (0B&C) Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (0B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman.0.07 (9B&C) 5 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

16 . Ghost Division 0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman.0.07 (B&C). Uprising Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 5. Night Witches 0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 6. Screaming Eagles Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 7. Resist & Bite Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C) 8. Counter Strike Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (B&C) 9. The March to War - Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (5B&C) 0. Primo Victoria - Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C). Fallen in War 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester.0.07 (B&C). Soldiers of Three Armies 9 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C). Saboteurs 0 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C). Panzer Kaempf Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman.0.07 (5B&C) 5. Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (5B&C) 6. Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (5B&C) 7. Ruben s Closed Project Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (8B&C) 8. Closed Project Bolted by Terence Trevaskis (8B&C) 9. Fight Back to Back Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (9B&C) 0. War Hammer 9 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (8B&C). The Last Stand - 6 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson (B&C). Shiroyama - 6 Terence Trevaskis & Kevin Anderson (B&C) 6 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

17 Kargen Walk past Pump House, about 00m upstream, Kargen is on the LH side.. Sons of Oden Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall.09.0 (8B&C). The Trickster Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (8B&C) Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. Mantis Kargen 50m upstream from Kargen, but around the pool. 7. Blood Dance 8 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C). Ghost of War 8 6 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 0 (8B&C). Three One 5 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (8B&C). Shadow King 0 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (7B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 5. Under the Spell of the Moon Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (6B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 6. Tears of Babylon 9 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 0 (9B&C) Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall. 7. Merlin Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (7B&C) 8. Better Than the Rest 7 Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette.09.0 (7B&C) 9. Guardians Of Time 8 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall.09.0 (8B&C) 0. Closed Project 0-ish Bolted by Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C). Fly High Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette 0 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. Mantis 7 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

18 Forever This sweet face is 80m above start of the path to The Beach.. Last Forever Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Easy ramp crack.. We Built this House Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up to L of jutting overhang. Then up ramp crack.. Return to Forever 8 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up the middle of the face below the roof. Move L into R facing open book, then R under roof.. Forever & a Day 8 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up behind LH edge of free standing block. Up then traverse diagonally L to a cubby hole. Then up trending slightly R. 5. Out with a Bang 7 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up behind free standing block, moving a bit R. Up L trending ramp arête. Forever 5 8 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

19 Cleopatra From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto a sandy path. Cross the river to the PE side when you can. Follow the river upstream to a large dam wall. Scramble up the LH bank about 60m below the dam wall. Cleopatra is about 50m upstream from the dam wall & about 5m above the water when the dam is full. Routes are recorded from L to R.. Closed Project 6-ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C). Suck it Up Princess Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (B&C). You Kinky Little Thing / PROJECT - +- Bolted Derek Marshall (B&C). Sex, Drugs & Prostitution, but Don t Be a Dricus Derek Marshall & Garvin Jacobs (B&C) 5. The Shallows 0 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.0.0 (9B&C) 6. Noodle Salad 8 Martin Rehm & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 7. Steel Sunday Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C) 8. Snaking the Mates Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (B&C) 9. Mene Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C) 0. Tekel Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (0B&C). Peres Derek Marshall & Martin Rehm (0B&C). Relentless Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (B&C). Luck of the Buffalo 5 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck (0B&C). Son of a Bitch - 7 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle (0B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 5. Time of the Oath Derek Marshall & Magnus Wagener (B&C) 6. Send or Bend - Willem Oosthuysen & Derek Marshall (0B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 7. Black Day Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (0B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 8. Sunset Sonata - 7 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C) Bolted by Morne Van Der Mescht, extended by Derek Marshall. 9. Send & Receive 5 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (0B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 0. Breakthrough 5 Morne Van Der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 007 (9B&C) The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall, opened by Clinton Martiningo.. Faded Memories 6 Adam Ludford & Cameron Smith (0B&C) Original route stopped before the top. The extension was bolted by Derek Marshall. King of the Sky 5 Richard Walker way back (9B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall.. Hey Lord! 7 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall.05.00(0B&C). Better Days 5 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 5. Light The Universe - Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (0B&C) 6. Within Temptation Derek Marshall & Garreth Brown (8B&C) 7. Grawwww! Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (8B&C) 8. Hunter Killer Derek Marshall & Martin Renz (B&C) The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original opened as a mixed line by Andrew Wesson. 9 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

20 9. Serial Sandbager Derek Marshall & Martin Renz (8B&C) The first part of this line, stopping before the ledge, was original bolted & opened by Andrew Wesson. Morne Van Der Mescht re-bolted the first part. Derek Marshall extended it to the lip. 0. The Hunters Lunch Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 5 6 Cleopatra Geological Event Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (B&C). Ride the Sky Andrew Wesson 98 (8B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall.. Inner Beauty 7 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall.. She s a Little Loose 5 Joe Mohle & Derek Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 5. Cleopatra s Crack 0 Richard van der Merwe 99 (7B&C) 6. Cleopatra s Cat 0 Andrew Wesson 99 (5B&C) 7. Snorting Tequila 9 Andrew Wesson 99 (6B&C) 8. Agent of the Receiver 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (B&C) 9. See, Believe & Do Derek Marshall & Joe Mohle (6B&C) 0. Élan Audacity - 0 Derek & Caroline Marshall 0 (6B&C). Exercise in Futility 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (6B&C). Chasing Rubber Bones 9 Andrew Wesson 99 (6B&C) Re-bolted & top chains redirected by Derek Marshall.. From Here to Eternity 7 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 0 (6B&C) 0 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

21 Lower Cleo On the walk-in to Cleo, 70m before you reach Cleopatra, on a small corner close to the water.. Preemptive Attack Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up overhang just R of arête, up to belay from tree.. Dynamite Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up open book just R of Dynamite.. Some Where Some How 9 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 0 (5B&C). The Trooper 9 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall 0 (5B&C) 5. Quest for Fire 0 6. Dreams & Fantasies 0 7. Lill Bill 9 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 8. Bibi Blocksberg 8 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 9. Ti//Nhu! Trevelied 6. Iron Law 7 Lower Cleopatra Easy deep water bouldering Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (5B&C) Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (5B&C) Lars Gringel & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Lars Gringel & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C) Rosetta Walk in as for Cleopatra. From the LH side of Cleopatra move along the ledge to a smaller trad version of Cleopatra. Routes are recorded from L to R: Rosetta. Wash Away Those Years 6 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) 8m R of the start of the LH side of the crag, from a crack that halts, start 0.5m L.. Your Friend 7 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) m R of Wash Away Those Years, up break moving R through the overhang.. Rambo 8 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T).5 R of Your Friend up R facing open book into off width. Break out L to avoid cactus. Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

22 Easter Bunnie s Secret Hideout Walk-in to base of dam wall. Up the big steps to the top of the RH side of the wall. This small shaded crag is 5m behind the dam wall. All day shade, great for a hot day.. Sweiny Hond Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall.. Diamonds in the Rough. Closed Project 5-ish. Flight of Icarus 5 5. Sun & Steel 7 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (7B&C) (5B&C) Derek Marshall Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (5B&C) Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 6. Avantasia 0 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T&C) Second L facing open book. 7. Closed Project 6-ish 8. Burning Down The Opera 9. The Headless Game 7 (5B&C) Derek Marshall m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (B&C) m Derek Marshall & Steven Lancaster (B&C) 0. Chocolate One Way 09m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T&C) Short crack.5m R of The Headless Game WATER DAM WALL Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

23 The Beach From the concrete weir & pump house at the bottom of the concrete road. Find your way over obstacles, onto a sandy path on the other side of the weir. Follow the river upstream. Cross the river at the logical point to a small concrete bridge. Just after the concrete bridge, there is a fin, the path starts behind the fin. Up the path to the top of the hill. Just over the top of the hill look for a path to the L. Follow this steep path down to a large overhanging crag set above water. The base of The Beach was washed away by floods in 00. The Beach was regarded as complete after the initial routes were opened in 00. Derek & Jaun-Dray Marshall added most of the easier routes, making this one of the best beginner & intermediate crag in Van Stadens. 0 The Beach /0/ 5 6 These routes are on a tiny crag just of the path as it drops into The Beach. Steam Rock Fever Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.07.0 (T) Up on inside of arête, moving onto the arête.. Another Piece of Meat Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.07.0 (T) Up to the R of the open book, move L into L trending prominent flake system.. Out Of Control 9 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (5B&C). Funky Chicken 9 Jessica Jefferies & Morne van der Mescht 00 (5B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb Bouche 8 Morne van der Mescht & Monique Hibonet 00 (6B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall in Feb Appetite for Destruction 7 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (6B&C) 7. Avantasia 7 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (6B&C) 8. Allen s Crazy Crack 7 Allan Luck & Derek Marshall 00 (T) 9. Power of Fantasy 7 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.0 (6B&C) 0. Check Dat Bitch 9 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.07.0 (7B&C). Czech This Magnus Wagener & Viera Vancova 00 (7B&C). Bush Biscuit Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall.09.0 (0B&C) Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

24 . Lancaster Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.05.0 (0B&C). Da' Bitch Magnus Wagener & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C) 5. Fuck Dat Bitch - Juan-Dray Marshall & Robyn Bonnette.09.0 (0B&C) 6. Forced Sterilization Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (8B&C) 7. Filter or Flavor 6 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 006 (5B&C) 8. Die With Your Boots On Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (B&C) 9. Sheathless 9 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 00 (B&C) 0. Save Us Now Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C). Wings of a Dream Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout..0 (B&C). Walking in the Air 9 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (5B&C) Bolted Derek Marshall.. Soleil 7 Martin Renz & Morne van der Mescht 00 (9B&C). Hydrophobic 9 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 00 (6B&C) 5. Predatory Jungle Law 9 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 006 (6B&C) 6. Overthrust Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 00 (7B&C) This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Morne van der Mescht extended & re-bolted the line. 7. Sleeping Beauty 5 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jefferies (7B&C) 8. Hydrophilic 7 Morne van der Mescht & Magnus Wagener 00 (5B&C) This route was partially bolted by Andrew Wesson. Extension & re-bolting by Derek Marshall. 9. Open Project Bolted Morne van der Mescht (5B&C) 0. Open Project 9-ish Bolted Kevin Watkins & Paul Brouard (6B&C) Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

25 Platform Same walk-in as The Beach, but near the top of the hill at a concrete beacon, follow a path L for about 00m to a steep drop down behind Platform. The Beach Walk-in to Platform Platform Wings of Time. Tatoo Van n Slang Op Jou Tiete. Be Cruel to Your School 5. King of the Sky 5. Salami 6. Tsunami 7. Taste the Pain 8. Cold War Bitch 9. Don t Bust My Chops 0. A Taste of Life. Hear The Heathen Call Bolted by Ruan Grundlingh.. Bro Love Bolted by Terence Trevaskis.. Puffmutter Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall.. Týr The Hamer of Thor 5. Closed Project -ish Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Ruan Grundlingh (9B&C) Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis.0.06 (8B&C) Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (9B&C) Martin Rehm & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (8B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall 5 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

26 Raven Shadow From The Beach, cross the stream & the sand to a small out crop on the other side. This is in the direction of Cleopatra. This crag gets good shade. The routes & the setting is very pleasant.. SMSs From the Dead Raven Shadow Derek Marshall & Charl Lotter (B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis.. Closed Project (6B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. Dark Wings Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (7B&C). Blood Bound Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (6B&C) Loppit Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. The routes are at water level, short & easy. The routes L to R:. Give 8m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Up crack moving L into easy break.. What s Right 7 5m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) m R of curving crack, up short blank looking face.. Choose to Live 6 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Prominent open book with perfect crack to the L.. Lord I Stand 6 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T).5m R of prominent open book, then up jagged arête. 5. Against the Faceless Man 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) m R of Lord I Stand up rails into hand crack. 6 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

27 Pipe Bridge Follow the path over the spur as you would for The Beach. Continue down the hill to the sandy river bed. Up the tributary that the Pipe Bridge crosses. The routes are at water level Pipe Bridge The following are on the downstream side of the Pipe Bridge.. Knobs Walk m Craig Bester & Deon Mostert (T) Easy line to R of small buttress.. Puppy Line m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) Small easy line to L of buttress. The following are on the upstream side of the Pipe Bridge.. Chops 8 5m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) m L of Slithers, up under cut lay away. Into off width.. Slithers 6 5m Derek Marshall & Ross Truscott (T) Double tiny L facing open book. Step R onto ledge onto upturned nose. Up ramp to the top. 5. Mediocrity 7 0m Derek & Caroline Marshall..05 (T) Up break below off-width formed by semi-detached block on top. 6. Living After Midnight 9 0m Derek & Caroline Marshall..05 (T) Up prominent crack below diagonal L break. 7. Loving Till the Morning m Derek & Caroline Marshall..05 (T) Start in low short L facing open book. Up stepping R into further L facing open book. 8. Loaded m Derek & Caroline Marshall..05 (T) Up easy break below broken fin. Rail R at the top to abseil tree. 9. God of Deliverance Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 0 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 0. Die Swartz Gevaar Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 0 Bolted by Craig Schwartz.. Heart of the Rainbow Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (8B&C) 0 Bolted by Terence Trevaskis.. Wings of Insanity 5 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (7B&C) 0. Jaws of Pleasure Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (6B&C) 0. Wild on the Run 8 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (5B&C) 0 7 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

28 5. Freedom Call 6 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) 0 Bolted by Derek Marshall. 6. Cry of the Night Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (9B&C) 0 7. Crystal Empire Juan-dray & Derek Marshall (9B&C) 0 8. Rise Up to Heaven Derek & Juan-dray Marshall (7B&C) 0 9. Closed Project 6-ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (7B&C) 0. Closed Project 0-ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall (8B&C) Pipe Bridge / Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

29 UFO Pinnacle UFO Pinnacle is the small pinnacle with the huge loose flying saucer (!) shaped boulder parked on top, about 00m downstream from the pump house on the JB side of the van Stadens River.. Only You Can Rock Me 6 5m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.05 (T) Start on a ramp on the downstream, JB arête. Stay basically on the LH side of this arête.. Too Hot To Handle 6 7m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.05 (T) Up arête on the downstream, PE side. Stay basically on the LH side of this arête, moving around to the river face near the top. Avoid touching the huge flying saucer shaped boulder parked on top, it s ready to fly. The Mad Axeman 7 6m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) Start below the upstream, river facing arête. Move up & onto the arête, breaking L onto the river face. Up to the top, over the UFO, with caution (!). It should fly downstream, so be ready to jump upstream.. Rock Bottom 5 m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up below the RH river facing arête. Up moving R to the top. Abseil Tree UFO Pinnacle Abseil Point The following routes are on a tiny face behind UFO Pinnacle. 5. One of Those Nights Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up crack above ramp on LHS. 6. Running Up the Highway Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up in groove moving L. 7. Born for the Good Life 5 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up through groove into R trending crack. 8. Axe to Grind 7 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up smooth face below notch in roof. Through the notch, moving R onto the point. 9. Shoot Shoot 6 Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up below point move R of point, then directly up. 0. Let the Good Times Role Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up smooth ramp to R of overhand at the top. The following routes are on a tiny face above a pool opposite the UFO Pinnacle.. Ain t Life Sweet 6 5m Craig Bester & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) m R of the arête, up the crack system. Dricus was too afraid to lead this line.. Doctor, Doctor 6 5m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert (T) m R of the arête. Up cracks & steps onto a tree in a gully. These two routes are about 00m upstream on UFO Pinnacle, above a pool on the JB side. 9 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

30 . Lights Out in London 8m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (T) From the platform just above the water, up just L of RH arête. Nondescript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock.. C mon Everybody 8m Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown (T) m L of RH arête. Non-descript line on scary loose looking & gearless rock. This route is on the grey face m upstream of UFO Pinnacle, somewhere above the previous two routes. 5. Strength of Play 7 8m Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars (T) Up the blunt LH ramp arête. Trend R & too the top. Walk off towards the waterfall. Move through a hole in the waterfall stream course. Blackout Above & slightly down stream of UFO Pinnacle. The diagonal roof cap is a prominent feature.. Poppers Never Tell 7 m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Up ramp on RH side of cave, then step over cave & up to a ledge. Up the middle of the face above the ledge To another ledge. Up the thin face above to some loose looking blocks.. Blackout 9 6m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Start up short hand crack in overhang on L of cave to gain a ledge. Up the hucos directly to the lowest point of the diagonal roof. Up the R trending roof open book, the up the easy face on the R.. Papa sê Pant 8 6m Derek & Caroline Marshall (T) Scramble onto a ledge & then up a line of amazing hucos m L of Blackout. At the lowest point of the diagonal roof, break out, then up the ramp. Blackout 0 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

31 La Douche This is the not so marvelous face slightly up stream & opposite the UFO Pinnacle.. Master Schnafler 9 Terence Trevaskis & Ruan Grundlingh April 05 (8B&C). Delicious Monster - 0 Terence Trevaskis & Craig Swartz Sept 05 (8B&C). Illusional Beginner 8 Terence Trevaskis & Patrick Brown (T) Up R facing open book under a small roof. Continue up to jagged R facing open book, through cubby hole & directly up.. F*** Mannie 8 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall Sept 05 (8B&C) 5. Let s Douche This 9 Patrick Brown & Derek Marshall (6B&C) Bolted by Morne van der Mescht. 6. Save Yourself 9 6m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (T) Up broken ramp below huge overhanging open book. Up the open book to belay in the bush above. 7. La Douche Douche Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.05 (7B&C) 8. Rock Man-ehr Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout.0.05 (T) Shit line that starts on slabs R of La Douche Douche. Trend R & up on easy ground to a tree belay. La Douche Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

32 Apple Express This is directly below the train bridge on the PE side. Enter the municipal water affairs area; about 5m after the gate turn L onto a track. Follow this to behind some worker s housing. Park about 0m from the bridge. Walk down on the upstream side of the bridge. Move under the bridge to a scramble & then abseil from bridge struts. 0m abseil. Walk out over rough terrain in upstream & downstream directions. Abseil Point Apple Express. The Headless Children 5 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall..00 (7B&C). Apple On Crack Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold..005 (6B&C) Extended by Derek Marshall.. The Last Command 5 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall..00 (7B&C). St Franco of van Stadens - 9 Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs (T) L trending diagonal open book. Derek bailed on loose rock before the anchor. 5. Puma 5 Bolted by Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs. Extended by Juan-Dray Marshall. 6. The Brute Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall (B&C) Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs Dec 007 (B&C) 7. Save Us 9 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester March 008 (T) Up between the bolted lines. Zig-zag to the ledge below & L of the abseil point. 8. The Apprentice 9 Ben Arnold & Franco Jacobs (7B&C) 9. Strange it May seem 7 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars.0.06 (T&C) Up L trending L facing open book, trend L onto anchors of The Apprentice. 0. Towards Silence 8 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (B&C). Expressional 9 Derek Marshall & Franco Jacobs (T) Up to R of Apple Express, into R trending break. Stop at the chains of Apple Express.. Come out & Play 7 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars.0.06 (T&C) Up m R of Towards Silence, basically directly up through the most blank clean part, moving a bit L at the top to the chains of Expressional.. 7 in the Dark! 7 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold (T) Trad line up slightly bushy L facing open book. Climbs past a few bushes then past a L trending diagonal crack system. Franco finished this route in the dark.. The Fire Burns On 8 Derek Marshall & Tyson Baars.0.06 (T) Up L trending L facing open book. About 9m up break out R onto a ledge up over easy ground, then over a bit of a neck & up the edge of the main face to belay above the abseil anchors. Walkoff Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

33 The following routes are about 60m upstream of Apple Express. 5. Closed Project -ish 6. Closed Project -ish Derek Marshall Juan-Dray Marshall Troll Park as for Apple Express. Walk over the train bridge. 5m after the end of the bridge find a vague path on the LH side. Follow the path directly under the bridge. At the slight scramble at the base of the nd trestle (Troll Boulder), find a path down to Troll.. Cows Life 6 Clinton Martiningo & Joe Mohle Dec 008 (0B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall.. Troll Adam & Miraslav Ondra (0B&C) Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall. Yes, that is correct. Adam Ondra opened this second go during the 009 Rock & Road. This is before he went to Prophet s Cave, which he said was totally & absolutely awesome, before he cut his hand & wimpered. Troll Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

34 Trek Africa 00m before entering the water affairs gate turn L. Follow this road over the railway line in the direction of the gorge. Park under some gum trees at the edge of the gorge. This is about 50m downstream of the rail bridge. Find a path at the edge of the houses. Follow this down for about 90m to a steel cable which assist the decent. Scramble in an upstream direction to the crag. Routes recorded as you walk-in from the steel cable. Trek Africa Savage Union 5 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Ramp to R or Frankie Doodle.. Solitude 7 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold..005 (5B&C). The Life 8 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Vague crack system to L of Frankie Doodle.. Where the Sinners Go 0 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall.05.0 (8B&C) 5. Trek Africa 8 Franco Jacobs & Ben Arnold..005 (7B&C) 6. Are You Metal 6 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Broken stepped ramp to between the ears. 7. Mr Madman 5 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Indistinct easy break. 8. Ocean Cry Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 006 (T) Indistinct easy ramp. 9. Stupid Mankind Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 006 (T) Indistinct & easy ramble. 0. The Sage 9 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 006 (T) Up a wondering line that moves above the overhanging cave, then back R to the top.. Closed Project Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C). Helldorado 6 Juan-Dray & Derek Marshall 0 (5B&C). Closed Project 7 Bolted by Derek Marshall (5B&C) Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

35 Flower Reserve At picnic area take path to Lookout. This is the most upstream path. Cut off L after 50m then down about 80m, the path runs under an easy looking crag.. Olive Branch 5 m Derek & Caroline Marshall Up easy break on lower portion. Zigzag to find poor gear. Up ramp arête to belay from tree on top.. Reconciliation 6m Derek & Caroline Marshall Up easy looking stepped break, onto bottom of ramp arête. Traverse over ramp to find gear in overlap. Up to belay from tree on top. First Slabs 5 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

36 Woodridge School Rocks Set on the grounds of Woodridge Collage, the prestigious private school, School Rocks is the best beginner s crag in the Port Elizabeth area. Open Book is undoubtedly the best sport 9 on the PE circa. Access is strictly controlled. Woodridge has staunch security, locked gates, high electric fences, serious guards that patrol. Access is a bit sensitive, but it is possible via the correct channels & with proper arrangements. Please do take any chances & just rock up, this approach will not work as Woodridge has proper security. You will be turned away. For now please contact Derek Marshall info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za to make arraignments. Flower Resurve Van Stadens Pass Security Gate/ Guard House Park School Rocks. Monkey Style Ruben Snyman & Tyson Baars (T) Up the easy R facing open book.. Fideliter - 9. Matopos 9. Founders 0 Derek Marshall & John Alexander (5B&C) Derek Marshall & John Alexander (5B&C) Gordon Munro & Che Freese (6B&C) School Rocks Kohler 9 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (5B&C) 6. Alexander 9 Derek & Caroline Marshall (5B&C) 7. Bains - Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit (T) R facing groove open book. 8. Crane - 6 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall.0.05 (B&C) 9. Ball - 6 Terence Trevaskis & Derek Marshall.0.05 (B&C) 6 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

37 0. Cadle s Hotel - Derek Marshall & Stoffel du Toit (T) R facing groove open book.. Eric The Red Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C). Týr - 6 Derek Marshall & Ruben Snyman (B&C). Faithfully 5 Terence Trevaskis & Juan-Dray Marshall (T) Start m R of The Pin. Up R facing open book, directly up to R of tree.. The Pin Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 5. Veld n Vlei Derek Marshall & Craig Bester.0.06 (7B&C) 6. Old Woodrigen 7 Derek & Caroline Marshall (B&C) 7. No Regrets 6 Derek & Caroline Marshall.0.05 (B&C) 8. Castle Crack 6 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 0/05/98 (T) Prominent fist/hand crack. 9. Open Book 9 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown.0.05 (7B&C) 0. Fortress 9 Andrew Forsyth & Mike Makecknie 0/05/98 (T) Prominent crack that splits into near the top.. Dead Shot George 9 Derek & Juan-Dray Marshall (7B&C) Bolted by Patrick Brown.. The Leap 9 Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown.0.05 (6B&C). Mobilitate Vincere Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout (5B&C). Eye of the Fire Storm Juan-Dray Marshall & Terence Trevaskis (5B&C) Bolted by Derek Marshall. 5. Spook Derek & Caroline Marshall (5B&C) 7 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

38 Slayer Follow the Ho Chi Min Trail down to the river. About 50m downstream.. Closed Project -ish Bolted by Juan-dray Marshall. P P -. The Bloody Reign of Slayer Derek Marshall & Craig Bester P 8m (6B&C) P 6m (7B&C). Decade of Aggression - Derek Marshall & Patrick Brown P 8m (5B&C) P m B&C). Closed Project -ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall. 5. Seasons in the Abyss Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis P 9 7m (5B&C) P 7m (5B&C) 6. You Against You 9 7m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 7. Raining Blood 0 7m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (6B&C) Bolted by Terence Trevaskis. 8 Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall

39 Slayer P P P P Updated 7/0/07 Derek Marshall