THIS GUIDE IS DEDICATED TO CLIFF HUGES

Transcription

1 THIS GUIDE IS DEDICATED TO CLIFF HUGES Who is an inspiration & an example to all of us. LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or Mountain Club of South Africa. The landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own take care! NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: Many routes have been added or recorded for the first time in the last 0 years. Much detail was missing from the resources publically available. This guide is an attempt to consolidate this info & available to everyone for free! As this is a web based guide it can be considered a work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to marshall@qsafrica.co.za. All information will be greatly appreciated. You are welcome to print this out, or use the info for a better guide. Feel free! Please send me a copy. For more route guides, mostly in the Eastern Cape, please visit our site Thanks to the following people & resources which were used for various details: Keith James for historical details & answering numerous questions. Andrew Forsyth for the meticulous notes & details recorded in your journal. Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan for lots of details & corrections concerning routes climbed in. Mark Berry for taking the time to give route information & general historical snippets. Double big thanks to Werner Illenberger, Trefor Loyd & co for the big work in fixing the path & keeping the alien veg under control.

2 DIRECTIONS: Lady Slipper is situated km out of Port Elizabeth just off the N towards Cape Town. On the N take the van Stadens Pass / Uitenhage off ramp. Travel in the direction of Uitenhage for about km. 00m after the road crosses a railway line; turn sharply L onto a dirt road. About 00m along this road on the RH side is a sign for Hibrae Campsite, the MCSA gate & parking is right next to this. The MCSA requires a key, but is free. Alternately park at Hibrae, below the duck pond. Jimmy from Hibrae charges R0 per vehicle to park. Vehicles are safer here & TARAGON LADY SLIPPER MCSA PROPERTY TRAIN BRIDGE VAN STADENS RIVER VAN STADENS PARKING FALCON ROCK LADY SLIPPER ROAD HIBRAE RAIL TRACK TROLL CAPE ROAD PARKING N CT VAN STADENS PASS ROAD BOULDERS (see boulder guide) N PE the walk-in is a touch shorter (soft Capies take note). There is a gate on the lawn to the L. The path starts here. WALK IN: It depends where you are going, but any where high on the hill will take minutes & some effort. Please stay on the path. ACCESS: The Lady Slipper is owned by the MCSA. Best if you are a member, but if you are not please fill in a self-issue permit at the sign post near the first boulder. Please be massively polite to other mountain users, as in don t try to stroke anyone s Santa beard. The climbers in the Eastern Cape have a very strong relationship with the MCSA & this is home turf. HISTORY: The MCSA bought the Lady Slipper on the 0 June. There has been climbing on Lady Slipper since the 0s, but unfortunately much of the history is un-recorded or sitting in private records. TIME & WEATHER: There are numerous crags with aspects to suit any day. On hot days Hidden Boulder is recommended. Can be very cold in winter or when the wind is blowing. POTENTIAL: There is some potential for new routes, but not much. There is loads of potential on Taragon, about 00m towards van Stadens. GENERAL: bolted routes, about 0 short trad routes & about 0 boulder problems. ROCK TYPE: Hard quartzite with a small amout of sandstone. HAZARDS: The Slipper is very safe, but the following should be noted:. Snakes: there have been many Puffadders sighted. Big boots will help.. Grey beards: if you are caught off the paths or doing anything wrong these folks will be really unpleasant. ENVIRONMENTAL:. Please don t leave any litter & please make the effort to pick up any litter you see.. Stick to the paths.. Don t pick, break or cut any plants. Alien trees are exempt, please cut down & poison as many as you can.. No fires or camping.. No mountain bikes or dirt bikes.

3 . SANCF members please note that graffiti is not tolerated by MCSA or Eastern Cape climbers at all. Please take special note that Lady Slipper is MCSA heartland & the grey beards know Kung-fu. ACCOMMODATION: Both Hibrae & Falcon Rock at the base of Lady Slipper offer camping & chalets. Falcon has a sweet pub & restaurant, but can be a bit noisy. GOOSE ROCK HIDDEN BOULDER INYATI TWINKLE TOES WALL KESTREL BUTTRESS SUNNY SIDE MINUTE CHILL OUT ROCK THE WAVE PIXIES WALL THE HEEL LITTLE RED HEN SECTOR BACK IN THE DAYS SECTOR GOLDEN ERA SECTOR FROG SECRET SOCKS TURNING ROCK BOUNCE PATH TO FALCON ROCK NOODLE BOULDER CORNER CAFE GREAT WHITE BRONTOSAURS SKAAP NAAI NEW WORLD BARRIER REEF AFTER DINNER MINT TARANTULA TURNING ROCK TURNING ROCK 0 Walk up the normal access path to where the path splits in two. This seemingly small face is the sea ward face of Turning Rock. Take the path which runs in the direction of PE for a few meters to reach the PE face of Turning Rock. The routes are set on awesome, clean rock, which is more of an oversize boulder. Most routes are about m long. This lovely crag, has been the spot the MCSA has used to introduce beginners to climbing for years. There are a number of quality top ropes that can be set for this purpose. Unfortunately the details of most of the first accentionists have been forgotten as they were not recorded properly when the routes were opened. The following routes are on the PE side of Turning Rock.. Baby Cakes 0m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Start just R of rounded arête. Up prominent break, then continue up easy ramp to a tree abseil.. Real Easy - m This is the short, easy, most LH crack, which ends on a stance to the R. Can be used as an access to set top ropes

4 or scramble off.. Circus Act m Andrew Forsyth & Mike Mckechnie Nov (T) m R of Real Easy. Up crack in ramp to short open book. Move R onto ramp.. Whimperer * 0m Morne van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (B&C) Short bolted line..????(t) Start m R of Whimperer up overhanging crack system.. Love Removal Machine????(T) Start.m L of comic strip. Up pockets and cracks. Spot the awesome nut placement.. Comic Strip m Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Up the prominent wide open book crack system.. Contesteration Direct 0 m Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy Jan (T) Start m L of Contesteration. Up a line which is just R of Comic Strip. m up traverse a m R into Contesteration. Up through the overhang.. Contesteration - m Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Up a line which is just R of Contesteration Direct. Moving hard L to an easier finish. 0. Howdat Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 0/0/ (T) Start m R of Contesteration.. Peek-a-boo Morne van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Start m L of descent chimney. Bouldery start, onto jugs.. Descent Chimney 0. Beyond Desire *** Uwe Haller (B&C) Re-bolted by Derek Marshall in 0.. Blood & Soil - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Start just R of open book. Move L to belay from above Beyond Desire.. Harrier Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Start just R of open book. Up ramp to R.. Too Little Play Dricus Bezuidenhout & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) m R of the open book start of Harrier, start under a roof with a triangular notch cut into it. Up jugs to the top.. Divine Election - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T).m R of the a roof with a triangular notch cut into it, up into small L trending open books.. Litotes 0m TURNING ROCK TURNING ROCK Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) m R of the roof with a triangular notch cut into it, up undercut open book. Trend L. The following routes are on the seaward face of Turning Rock:. Head Mechanic - m Morne van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) m L of rounded arête, up thin slopers into short finger crack. Continue up easy ramp to an abseil tree.. The Law of the Jungle - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up prominent wide crack. m L of rounded arête.. Wicky Wacky Woo Show - 0m Wayne Clausen & Andrew Forsyth (T) 0 Jagged L trending break.. Jeeves - 0m Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen // (T) Difficult mantle start below hanging block. Up LH side of hanging block. Continue to tree abseil.. Zininzi - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Start on thin rounded grips. Then up very easy ramp to tree abseil.. Budding Inspiration - 0m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up very easy break with L pointing spikes.

5 . The World of Jugs - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Very easy ramp. More of a scramble. A great route for pensioners learning to lead. It wonders all the way to the top. Which is about 0m. Scramble off the back.. Men Behaving Badly - 0m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Very easy ramp. Lots of jugs. Go for the end of the slabs then scramble off.. Make the Bad Man Stop - 0m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Easy scramble to the top. Could be challenging if you had no arms. 0. Slash 0 Rob Mac Geoghegan & Alex von Altenreus (T) Easy diagonal ramp line. The following routes are on the JB side of Turning Rock. TURNING ROCK. Winky Wanky - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy break m R of open book. Not very worth while at all.. Chocolate Starfish 0 m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the easy off width open book.. Thumb Technique 0 m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the easy recess. THE HEEL & THE WAVE THE WAVE / 0 THE HEEL From the junction of the path at Turning Rock, follow the LH option that traverses in the JB direction. Up steeply to below two prominent overhanging free standers. The RH is The Heel the L The Wave. This is the eye catching rock formation an be seen from kilometers away, if seen from the correct angle. 0. Mujahideen m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester //00 (T) Start under steep bulge on RH side of slabs. Over the bulge & up to the L of the open book. Move R over the overhang & up the open book with a nice finger crack higher up. Move L onto easy arête, to the top out.. Cyanosis - Eric De Beer & Morne van de Mescht Feb 00 (T) About 0m R of The Heel. Climb the crack line running up the larger broken face. Through a bulge, moving slightly R into crack which runs through a slight overhang. Belay off abseil chains.. Trail Of Tears m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester //00 (T) Start m R of large R facing open book. Straight up the break. Where overhangs traverse R on jugs to the arête. Up the arête to top out.. Gluteus Maximus - Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) From the ledge behind the heel. Move to the end of the ledge. This is the line that runs to the R of the prominent roof, with the open book crack on the LH side of the roof.. Jurassic Roof - Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) From the ledge behind the heel. Move to the end of the ledge. This is the open book crack on the LH side of the prominent roof.. Ramp Route - John Moss (T) Start in prominent, but short crack, below the seaward arête on the PE side of The Heel. Gain the R trending ramp "ledge" to some veg. Up the open book to the ledge behind The Heel.. Turning Rock into Route - Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) Start from the ledge behind the Heel. Travers L onto the PE face. Up to the L of the landward arête on the PE face.. Mind Parasite Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) RH seaward arête of The Heel. Worked & cleaned by Alvin Wood. Pumping Into The Blue *** Mike Roberts (B&C)

6 Bolted line up the middle of the seaward face of the Heel. Re-bolted by Juan-dray Marshall in Closed Project -ish Bolted by Derek Marshall (B&C). Half Way Stop Franz Nel & Pete du Preez (T) Starting in the gully on the JB side of The Heel. Up the crack system just L of the RH arête.. Pendulum Franz Nel & Pete du Preez (T) Starting from the ledge behind The Heel & The Wave, up a crack system. Move seaward till almost in the middle of the face. Top out.. Gogo Alley - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Ramp gully closest to The Heel, that runs up to the saddle between The Heel & The Wave.. Templar Renegade Crusade m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Ramp between the two breaks that end on either side of the saddle between The Wave & Heel. The pro blanks out before the ledge above. Not very sweet. Totally gripping.. Gogo Tits - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the large crack that ends in the LH side of the saddle between The Wave & Heel. Its not quite as easy as it looks & much longer than expected.. Marching Out 0* Derek & Juan-dray Marshall April 0 (B&C) Up the easier RH side of The Wave, but staying out of the large crack that ends in the LH side of the saddle between The Wave & Heel.. Gun Ho ** Andrew Forsyth (B&C) Up the very blank looking overhang that is The Wave. Staying to the R of center. Originally led by Andrew Forsyth. The first bolts were placed by Mike Roberts at this stage it was a mixed route, trad & two bolts. Morne van der Mescht completely rebolted the route in 00. Believing it to be a Mike Roberts route. The retro bolting of which was permitted. It is now a proper sport line.. Miss American Pie - Andrew Forsyth (T) Up the very blank looking overhang that is The Wave. Staying to the L of center.. Sky Line - Up the easy prominent arête on the L of the wave. 0. Good Old Boys - Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) Start up the steep scramble on the JB side of the wave. Climb the obvious break in the arête. Then follow almost the same line as Sky Line. BATTLE FACE / THE HEEL BATTLE FACE Battle Face starts behind The Wave & Heel. The face continues in the JB direction till it reaches Pixies Sector. The routes are longer, but still fairly easy. This should be one of the most popular areas on the Lady Slipper. The following routes are on a large ledge behind The Wave & Heel.. Ava m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) m R large belay tree on ledge. m L of arête. Up an awkward undercut crack. Move R onto the /. Gulliver's Travels - 0-0m Andrew Forsyth Clee Roy - /0/ (T) Start up same awkward under cut crack. Then move L. 0. Mud Wrestling Delight - THE WAVE m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Above the large belay tree are two parallel cracks. Up the LH one which starts with an awkward step up. Then into a short chimney. Move R onto steps & cracks above recess. Trend L onto a good abseil tree. good abseil tree.. No Sign of Ceasefire - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up easy off width to the R.. Unusual Hesitation - m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 0/0/00 (T) Just R of the RH bolted line climb the nasty awkward off width crack. Move L to the chains of Foot Up.. Foot Up * m Franz Nel & Pete Du Preez (B&C)

7 BLANK FACE This is the line of bolts m R of the blunt arête that is Battle Crack. Originally climbed on trad by Franz Nel. Bolted in error by Derek Marshall in 00.. Foot Up Direct 0* m Andrew Forsyth & Franz Nel /0/ (B&C) Start just R of Battle Crack. Up face to hand rails. Through small over hangs on small holds. Originally lead on trad by Andrew Forsyth. Bolted on the same hung over morning. Andrew was not too pleased about the conversion of Foot Up & Foot Up Direct to sport climbs. The topo that existed at the time indicated that the two routes were further towards the PE side of the face. Both lines will returned to their natural state in due course.. Battle Crack 0m Karl Dauter (T) Up the prominent off width slightly L of the arête.. The Gutter???? m L of Battle Crack up into curving crack system. 0. The Way - Andrew Forsyth & Wayne Clausen (T) Awesome looking curving crack that winds to the top of the face.. Philosophers Stone - m John Rous (T) Up the easy break just R of the very easy off width. - Philosophers Overhang ** Andrew Forsyth & Franz Nel /0/ (B&C) Same start as Philosophers Stone, then move out L through an overhang.. POTENTIAL. Prepare For War - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up the easy off width, trending L. Gain the ramp above. Scramble L to a thorn tree. This is the abseil point.. Leave Time Behind - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up the easy break m L of Prepare For War. Then onto the ramp and L to the abseil thorn tree.. Independence Day m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) m R of undercut arête. Start on blunt arête. Top out through V notch.. Blitzkrieg - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T).m R of undercut arête. Start in small, broken open book.. Battle of the Bulge m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) m R of undercut arête. Climb the obvious easy line.. Finger Fire Trail - Andrew Forsyth (T) Same start as Battle of the Bulge, traversing L over the overhang for.m, then up. FIVE MINUTE CHILL-OUT This is just below and towards JB of Battle Face. The "blank face" is the short, but impressive face that you walk past to get to Battle Face, Pixies & G Face. The rest of the routes are not marvelous, but are great for beginners to learn to lead trad. All routes are escaped by abseiling down the sea ward ramp, from the bollard at the top of Coffee Society.. Potential Up the R trending diagonal crack.. Child of The Stars 0 0m Andrew Forsyth (T) Start up,m L of blunt arête. Follow the seemingly thin gear to a bollard on top.. Way of the Hunter - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up on blunt arête. MINUTE CHILL-OUT Up the rails just R of the lower JB arête. MINUTE CHILL-OUT ABSEIL BOLLARD SEAWARD RAMP PATH TO BATTLE FACE & PIXIES SECTOR. Just Chill m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Easy crack on short ramp. Then through off width in roof.. Hot Durban Curry m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up blunt arête. R through small easy roof.. Coffee Society m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Obvious open book.. Nipple Stand m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy crack line.. Sub Zero 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Climb easy line between cracks.. Kit Cat m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Easy crack line. 0. Water Break m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Climb the arête. Then up seaward ramp.. Extra Time m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Climb blunt corner to abseil point.. Gogo Goose - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) 0

8 . Just a Minute m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Climb the prominent ramp which leads into an off width open book, on the RH side of the sea ward ramp. into easy crack.. Hobbits Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /000(T) Climb the easy face to R of veg open book. Actually fairly nice.. Pixies Pitch Franz Nel??? (T) Start in the crack m L of the open book. Move to the R of the crack, then back into the crack. Pixies Pitch might have being opened by Franz Nel whose nickname at school was Pixie, apparently due to his pointy ears. But it defiantly was not opened by Pixie Fuller, who only started climbing in about when she started studying at Rhodes.. Pixies Direct Andrew Forsyth & Chris /0/ (T) Climb the crack line m L of open book.. Separation - Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) This is the thin line that starts in Pete's Crack, but moves R. Remain L of Pixies Direct.. Pete s Crack PIXIES SECTOR PIXIES SECTOR Follow the path to the junction below Turning Rock. Turn L, then under The Heel. The path becomes steep on the L of The Heel. Continue past Battle Face. Pixies is the landward face to the L of Battle Face. The routes are all very short, but great for some easy fun climbing. Hairy Fairy Morne Van de Mescht & Bill Uren /0/00(T) Start on jug above over hanging arete. Move R into broken groove.. Prixie Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00(T) Climb the line of rock between two off widths. Follow clean rock to top.. Tinker Bell Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00(T) Start to R of veg gully. Climb onto ledge. L over gully 0 WALK OFF PIXIES SECTOR Pete Du Preez (solo) L facing open book crack.. Crucifixion Jason Lang (T) Crack system to the R of the chimney. 0. Shadow of Dreams - 0m Andrew Forsyth Feb (T) Arête m R of McKechnies Madness.. McKechnies Overhang 0 Mike McKechnie After the overhung start move straight up into ledgey open book.. McKechnies Madness 0** Greg Lacey & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) Perfect crack line to the R of Fingertip Explosion. This line was soloed by Andy de Klerk in.. Fingertip Explosion *** Mike Roberts (B&C) Re-bolted by Derek Marshall in 0.. Wild Child *** Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 0/0/0 (B&C)

9 Bolted by Morne Van de Mescht. This was opened by Juan-dray when he was only.. Grovelers (T) Climb the RH off width, ramp, open book.. Fire Place Crack - Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (B&T) Climb the route m R of G Face. This line was soloed a few days later by Andrew Forsyth. Not sure who placed the bolts. Possibly Uwe Haller. G Face ** (T) Climb the crack system up the face, into under clings, then up the crack.. G Crack ** (T) Climb the LH Perfect crack.. G Whiz m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester //00 (T) Up the easy arête on the LH side of the face. TWINKLE TOES WALL This is the clean looking wall, which faces the sea, above & on the JB side of Battle Face. TWINKLE TOES WALL / 0 / 0. The Eyes of a Stranger Derek Marshall & Jonathan Woods /0/00 (T) Very short & surprisingly tough crack to the R.. Revolution Coming - Derek Marshall & Jonathan Woods /0/00 (T) Very short & surprisingly tough crack to the L.. Delight is Disorder - Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine /0/ (T) Up the RH arête.. Wilkraag Derek Marshall & Pieter /0/00 (T) Start up crack just R of Twinkle Toes. Halfway up move R into R trending diagonal crack. Follow this onto the arête.. Twinkle Toes ** Wayne Clausen & Andrew Forsyth Up a prominent cracks, one of which is a fist crack. Move L into RH of twin top out cracks. Steven Reed placed two anchors at the top, in 00, to make the route easy to set up for beginners to top rope. The route was originally lead by Andrew Forsyth, using four points of aid in Jan. Freed by Wayne Clausen.. Ulysses Direct Mike Roberts (T) Start below LH of the twin top out cracks. Directly up to this.. Closed Project -ish Dricus Bezuidenhout (B&C) Bolted by Morne van der Mescht.. Ulysses 0m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan (T) Start m L of Twinkle Toes at the base of a wide crack. Up to a small ledge, then.m off the ledge, traverse m R on a handrail. Up a thin vertical crack too the base of the off width crack. This is shared with Twinkle Toes. Traverse m L to a thin crack. Thin moves to the top.. Domination Derek Marshall & Terence Travaskis /0/00 (T) RH crack in gully. 0. Domestication Derek Marshall & Terence Travaskis /0/00 (T) RH crack in gully.. Closed Project -ish Derek Marshall (B&C). Closed Project -ish Derek Marshall (B&C). Closed Project -ish Derek Marshall (B&C)

10 . Don't wait For Heroes * Clee Roy & Andrew Forsyth Sept (T) Prominent crack in center of face.. Closed Project -ish Derek Marshall (B&C). Battle Exit Andy De Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) Up ramp to L trending diagonal break.. Its Hip To Be Square - Andrew Forsyth (T). The Hollow Men - Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 0/0/ (T) Start m R of Battle Exit. Up the overhanging wall with the wide crack, which narrows. m up the face steepens. Up crack using lay always. Move slightly L when the crack becomes very narrow. Up to a ledge on the L.. State of Emergency Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy Sept (T) Up the overhanging face on jugs just L of The Hollow Men. Exit the same as for The Hollow Men. 0. Corridors Of Power - 0 Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen // (T) Very short jam crack to L of The Hollow Men.. F Lay Back KESTEREL BUTTRESS KESTREL BUTTRESS On the JB side of Twinkle Toes Wall. Some fairly long lines. Below is the Face on the PE side.. Street Legal 0 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan (T) Start on sloping rock below an overhang m R of Twist. The face is undercut at the start. m up a prominent crack leads to a ledge. Continue up the prominent crack, trending L. Then up the face on the L. Delicate climbing to the top.. Twist Andy De Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (T) Original climbed on aid by Andrew Forsyth, Mike McKechine & Bob Grey on May. Freed by Andy de Klerk.. Plus Minus - A ndrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine /0/ (T) Same start as Twist. Move up on jugs, then move L into a chimney with a tree in it.. Gibbon - 0m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine (T) Start m R of th Avenue. Move up and into the crack to the R of the arête.. th Avenue - 0 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan (T) Start just to the R of the seaward arête on the PE face. Climb the face to gain the arête. Move slightly R near the top. Do not veer R into the crack which is Gibbon. Through a bulge to the top. The following routes are on the sea ward face of Kestrel Buttress.. Angel of My Life - Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen // (T) This route is on the L of the arête. Between the arête & the jam-crack-&-chimney.. Rivers of Fate - Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen // (T) Jam crack & chimney.. Hibernation Mike McKechine & Andrew Forsyth (T). League of the Questionable m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) m R of Tit Bits, up easy ramp to some steeper bits, into off width before top out. 0. Tit Bits - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Start up R facing ramp open book. Continue KESTEREL BUTTRESS 0 0

11 up easy ramp, moving L through middle of ramp between arête & square notch.. Laanie Sê Lyn - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up the indefinite crack in the ramp. Over easy bit & a sort of a ledge. Then up hand crack to the R, moving R near the top.. Hairy Bikini - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Off width gully over easy ramp, then onto RH side of arête. SUNNY SIDE SUNNY SIDE The following lines are to the rear of Kestrel Buttress.. Flip Dis Lekker - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy juggy arête.. Moer Dis Lekker - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy chimney.. Insanity Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Juggy line to the R.. Le Harve - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Juggy line to the L.. Take it Easy - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy crack system.. Terminal Disappointment - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) L up easy ramp.. Pain & Pollution - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up easy ramp then through overhang.. Greek Salad - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up R facing open book. Just to the R of the overhang. Through a squarish notch. SUNNY SIDE 0 SUNNY SIDE. So-So 0m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T).m R of off width. Overhanging start.. Fame & Prostitution * m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Off width onto point. Very sweet.. Survive 0 m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up arête, continue up ramp.. Loose it All m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy break up broken face, trend R.. Down m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy break up broken face, trend L into crack system. The next small sectors are towards JB & slightly higher that the rear of Kestrel Buttress.. We are The One m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy juggy line to R. 0. Covet the Throne - 0 m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Juggy ramp.. Try m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) RH arête of pointed JB face.. Forever & One m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) LH side of pointed JB face.. Chess with Tomorrow 0 m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Overhang onto easy slab. SUNNY SIDE 0

12 . Ride the Lightning m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Perfect lightning bolt crack in slab. 0. Take Not to Give m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Thin crack system between lightning bolt crack & arête.. Too Be Free m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up arête. LITTLE RED HEN UPPER LITTLE RED HEN SECTOR This sector is 0m towards JB from the bottom of Turning Rock. Take the path towards JB at the junction below Turning Rock. The path goes over a flat portion of rock. This is the top of Little Red Hen Sector. The routes are a bit too short to be awesome, but the quality of the rock is great.. Pussy Path m Hubertus Hoelzmann & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up the crack on the RH side. 0. Shallow Grave m Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Up 'V' notch break into the small off width.. Not I 0 m Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Ramps & bulges to the L of prominent 'V' notch. Jugs & under clings.. I Shall m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Up the shite looking gully.. Who Will - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up crack to the L of the ramp gully.. Me & my Chicks m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Off width to the far L. The next routes are on a short buttress further towards JB.. The Bag Of Seed m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Very short crap break.. SS Committee - m Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Cracks just R of blunt arête.. Sunday Walk - m Hubertus Hoelzmann & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) R trending crack. 0. Wednesday Wankers m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up just to the R of veg off width.. Easy Puppy 0 m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 0/0/00 (T) Easy slab to the L. These routes are above the previous.. Dawn of Pleasure 0 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Steep short crack to R of gully. Continue up slabs.. Gypsy Road * 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Sweet crack system on JB side, in the gully.. Ring the Bell 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Up diagonal crack into alternate layback cracks, past a small roof.. Facing the Wrath 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Start at base of diagonal crack. Move up & slightly L, using small laybacks to top out.. San Sebastian m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Curving juggy crack.. Sun Kissed * m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 0//00 (T) Up the rounded arête to R of Shadow on My Heart.. Shadow on My Heart m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Off width on the corner, onto scramble ramp.. th Commandment m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 0//00 (T) Up tricky slabs to L of Shadow on My Heart. Through the middle.don t move L. 0. Endless Night m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Crack system to L of off width. Onto chimney ramp.. Run - Craig Bester & Jessica Jefferies 0//00 (T) Up middle of face to L of LH chimney.. We Burn m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0//00 (T)

13 RH of LH chimney groove. To the top. THE HIDDEN BOULDER These routes are on the face closest to JB:. Beatle Juice Jessica Jefferies & Morne Van Der Mescht March 00 (B&C). Oven Baked Worm - m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 0/0/ (T) Climb the flake system on LH side.. Pork Chop * m Morne Van Der Mescht /0/00 (B&C) Thin moves just L of the off width. Morne solo on-sighted this line.. Secret Messages * m Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy /0/ (T) Climb the awkward off width with the overhanging start. Easy chimney to the top.. Dingle Berry Juice * Morne Van Der Mescht & Jessica Jefferies /0/00 (B&C). Tunnel of Love 0** m Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth /0/ (B&C) Up juggy overhang. Originally led with natural gear & some HIDDEN BOULDER 0 rests by Andrew Forsyth & Wayne Clausen. Bolted in 00 by Derek Marshall. Unfortunately the guide could not be clearly understood. Makes a good bolted line. The next routes are around the corner to the R.. Slap Her She s French ** m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (B&C) L trending bolted line to the R of the juggy overhang.. Snake - m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Boulder start to gain R trending crack system. This was originally climbed with points of aid by Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine. Morne managed to lead it on site.. My Little Black Book ** Morne Van de Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout Jan 00 (B&C) At the Rock & Road in 00, the competitors built a cheat-platform & then said the route was only. But in the East Cape we say: ladders, scaffolding & other artificial means are cheating. 0. Screamer ** m Morne Van de Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 0//00 (B&C). Beautiful Other ** Martin Renz & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 B&C). Lost and Found ** Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries.0.00 (B&C). Moon Grazer - Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries Jan 00 (B&C). Puppet Of Doom * m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the thin line to the L of the open book.. Fire Woman m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 0/0/ (T) Climb the open book, to top out through a sky light.. Tufi * Morne Van de Mescht & Jessica Jefferies Jan 00 (B&C). Caffeine Machine * m Morne de Mescht & Magnus Wagner (B&C). Wrapped Up * Morne Van de Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 0//00 (B&C). One Eyed worm m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Climb the chimney on the RH arête. HIDDEN BOULDER HIDDEN BOULDER

14 INYATI INYATI This is the buttress just after Hidden Boulder. The routes are all trad, a bit short, but the rock is solid. Routes are recorded anti-clockwise from the JB face.. Practice Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Thin but easy line on face.. Living on a Prayer * Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Obvious plum line at this crag.. Ever Dream Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up easy break, onto easy arête. To the belay point.. Skid Marks Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Startup lowed JB corner, continue up arête.. Happiness Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up middle of easy ramp between lowed JB corner & the cleft.. Beware the Stampede Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up the areat that forms the LH arête of the chimney.. Feet, Boots & All Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the chimney on the seaward face.. Assbag Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the easy blunt arête on the R of the chimney. GOOSE ROCK Follow the contour path under Five Minute Chill Out Rock and then Kestrel Buttress. Continue on the path for another m to Goose Rock. The lines are surprisingly long.. Freedom Crack * Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Climb onto platform. Then up the obvious easy crack onto block. Mantle to top.. Goose Flesh - * Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (B&C). To Infinity and Beyond * Morne Van de Mescht & Monique Hibonett May 00 (B&C). Lust Less m Morne Van de Mescht & Bill Uren /0/00 (T) m R of To Infinity and Beyond climb the diagonal crack to the abseil bollard. GOOSE ROCK SEAWARD FACE PE SIDE. Slag m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Start on the arête. Move R and up the ramp. To abseil bollard.. Goose Noose m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Start in obvious gully. Up short open book. Then easy ground to abseil bollard.. Bill s First m Bill Uren & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Start in gully as. At the open book traverse R and up easy moves to abseil bollard.. Le Gherkin 0m Morne Van de Mescht /0/00 (T) Up the face between the gully and the arête. Them up to abseil bollard.. Gooses 0 m Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Start m L of arête. Up zig zaging crack system. 0. Sweet Salvation m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) m R of arête, up trending R. Staying off arête, gain the ramp.. Cookie Monster Crack * m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Climb the large open book chimney.. Mr I.D.G.A.F * m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) m R of rounded undercut arête. Climb the LH crack onto slopping ledge. Them up short open book.. Loose Goose 0 m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) m L of short jagged arête. Climb the easy broken crack. 0 ABSEIL BOLARD CONTOUR PATH

15 Situated about 0m above Goose Rock, on the JB face. The routes are short (m), but very sweet. Walk off is easy.. Goose Next Door Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Crack line on R.. Captain Goose - Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up the off width.. Super Bint Corner Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Arête on L. FROG FROG Frog is on private property. Please make contact with Derek Marshall 0 to make araingments for acess. There are two aproaches to Frog. Follow the contor path from Hidden Boulder, over Goose & Inyati to Frog. Or ask the farmer if you can park at his house & walk directly up.. Vicious Circle m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall (T) Short easy line just R of scramble off.. Nothing Better To Do - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Short L facing jagged flake system.. End of the Rainbow Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries (T) Start under most impressive overhanging point, into deep R trending 00mm slot. Move diagonally L. Keep on up diagonal L to top out m L of point.. Piss Ant m Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries (T) Same start as (), but move R & up diagonally R to end just R of the point.. Crystal Eyes 0 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Start m R of (&), hard moves at start. Move R to base of large crack gully, then diagonally L to top out notch.. Close Your Eyes 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester (T) Start in R trending diagonal overhang. Move R from take off, then move L to top out in notch.. Dragon For Lunch m Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Start on a 00mm jug rail that slopes down to the R. Move up & into deep crack to the L. Up a few meters then diagonally L to top out in top of gully crack.. PROJECT m Terrance Travaskis Same start as Dragon For Lunch. Move slightly R into pristine crack. Top PE SIDE CONTOUR PATH 0 WALK OFF FROG SEAWARD FACE ABSEIL BOLARD 0 out directly above in wide open book.. In The Dark m Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Jump for jug to the L of the horn jug. Up easy R trending ramp open book. 0. Hark In the Dark m Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Start.m R of horn jug. Start R move up L up diagonal rail. Powerful moves into crack system above.. Angle With Scabbed Wings m Terrance Travaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Start at lowest JB point. Move up jagged stepped arête. Through a prominent corner on the arête. Trend R to abseil bollard above.. Easy Rider m Terrance Travaskis & Derek Marshall (T) Start between rock & hanging boulder on the sea ward side. Up over ramp to the break in the vertical portion, on to abseil bollard above.. Amazing Grays m Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Start in R trending diagonal open book. Up directly to abseil bollard.. No Hesitation m Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Start in lightning break. Move L & up, then directly up moving R near the top to the abseil bollard.. PROJECT (T). PROJECT (T) 0

16 . PROJECT (T). PROJECT (T). CLOSED PROJECT Derek Marshall (B&C) 0. CLOSED PROJECT Derek Marshall (B&C). CLOSED PROJECT Derek Marshall (B&C). Dream Chaser - Juan-Dray Marshall & Terrance Travaskis (T) Start in cave, up through eye. Continue up trending L to top out. FALCON ROCK Falcon Rock is on the farm of the same name on the JB side of the MCSA Slipper property. Drive 0m past the MCSA gate. The next driveway is Falcon Rock. Park in the car park on the RH side of the house in the area indicated. Please report to the bar-reception for a parking ticket & permission. Walk through the restaurant area (don t stop for a beer or start watching rugby) or around the restaurant to the R. Find a track which crosses in front of the shooting range. Follow a track to a large free standing boulder set in a forest of wattles. SCRAMBLE OFF 0 WARNING - Bee Hive on top! FALCON ROCK. Beginners Luck ** Franco Jacobs 00 (B&C) TURNING ROCK Bolted line on the prominent arête.. Shell Shock ** Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries (B&C). Bounty Hunter - Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries.0.00 (T) Up through tradable overhang to the R of Shell Shock.. Blood & Wine * Jessica Jeffries & Morne van der Mescht Aug 00 (B&C). No Not More - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Off width chimney. 0. Fight For Rights - Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Slab to the R of off width.. Warm Bananas Derek Marshall & Martin Renz.0.00 (B&C) Up slab arête.. Oceans Apart *** Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 00 (B&C). Black Powder ** Martin Renz & Heidi Smelders May 00 (B&C) 0. Boogerman *** Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 00 (B&C). Project ish Morne van der Mescht. - Andrew Forsyth Jan (T) Prominent crack slightly R of center on the seaward face.. Ying Yan - Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 00 (B&C). Aftermath Martin Renz Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 00 (B&C). Happy Cow Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 0/0/0(B&C). On Wings of a Falcon - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Sharp arête on PE side.. Yes Please - Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Short crack line.. Never Be a Star - Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T).m L of bolted arête.

17 SECRET SOCKS CORNER Continue past Turning Rock on the PE side. The path passes close to a buttress, which although it is only about 0m high, has some very sweet routes. There are some bolts on top to facilitate setting routes for beginners.. Piece of Pie - SECRET SOCKS m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up 0m L of start of easy ramp.. Pick a Box - m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up.m L of start of easy ramp.. Peanut Line - m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up m L of start of easy ramp.. Easy Chicks 0 m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up m L of start of easy ramp.. Viena In a Passage - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Easy off width.. Fallen Smile - 0 0m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up ramp just R of nasty off width.. Pee In the Sky - 0 0m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Easy crack system.m R of off width.. Chaos Crack - 0 0m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up ramp passed prominent 'V' notch.. Never Crawl - 0 m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Off width on RH side of easy slabs. 0. Poovi - m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up jagged arête.m L of broken open book. Move L into chimney.. Up To The Left * m Rob Mac Geoghegan & Mike McKechine (T) Up broken open book into zigzagged crack system.. Snake Eye - * m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Start up ferned off width. Up LH broken open book. Move L & up seemingly thinly protected face.. Up to the Right - * m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) m L of broken open book, up ramp into prominent crack.. Nostalgia - m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Up bulging blunt arête. Past C shaped jugs near the top.. Take Me - * m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Crack line slightly R of blunt arête.. Wet Berboer Contest - 0m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up shorter crack through an over hang past a key locked rock.. Take Hold m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Shorter route to the R. Over hanging lay backs.. Back Den m Rob Mac Geoghegan & Mike McKechine (T) Short off width. 0

18 GOLDEN ERA SECTOR THE GOLDEN ERA SECTOR Follow the path past Turning Rock & Secret Socks Corner. From this path, find the path that leaves the main path in the direction of JB. Find the path that runs down hill, under the prominent needle to the front of the ridge. The seaward slabs extend to The Heel. This is The Golden Era Sector. The climbing is much better that one would expect. The following routes start on the JB side of the seaward face.. Pimp My Bitch m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 0//00 (T) 0 Up nice featured crack system. Move R & up the ramp to a belay spot.. Time Has Bought Fire m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Start just L of a ramp arête. Through a sort of an overhanging bit. Then onto easy ramp to a good comfy ledge, but with poor gear placements. There are trees to abseil from or a time consuming walk off.. Noxious Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan (T) Up R trending diagonal.. Streets are Screaming m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up the R trending groove & up the ramp crack above.. Voice Without a Sound m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Climb the LH off width, which is in a kind of an open book. The of width moves L over a ramp and a has a distinct block dividing it from the RH line. Then up an easy ramp to a good comfy ledge, but with poor gear placements. See the Light m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 0//00 (T) RH off width gully. Straight up to the top.. Revolution Coming m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 0//00 (T) Up slaby bit to the fist crack. Continue up over white soapy slabs.. Mooi Soes Vis m Dricus Bezuidenhout & Craig Bester 0//00 (T) Off width gully crack. This the only route Dricus opened on the Slipper. A moment of extreme pride.. Mate of SARS m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 0//00 (T) Up face between cracks. Break through onto a ledge. Up off width to the top. 0. Piece of Cake 0???(T&C) Know body knows quite where this route goes anymore.. Tandpyn - Rob Mac Geoghegan & Alex von Altenreus (T) Up prominent ramp crack. These routes are towards the PE side of Golden Era Sector.. Nip & Tuck m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Start in a crack to the R of the clean looking slab. Up trending L to a good ledge on the L. Straight up to open book ramp near the top. Top out. Abseil from the anchors at the top of Piton Crack.. Jolly Joker 0m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) GOLDEN ERA SECTOR Up the roof width break to the L of the off width open book. Up the ramp staying as much as possible on rock avoid the veg if you can. Gain the top of the ridge. Abseil from the anchors at the top of Piton Crack.. No Porkers Crack - 0m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Start up the nasty off width open book. Gain the ramp. Climb the LH side of the ramp to the top of the ridge. Abseil from the anchors at the top of Piton Crack.

19 BACK IN THE DAYS SECTOR BACK IN THE DAYS SECTOR Also known as the Retirement Sector. Past Turning Rock & Secret Socks Sector. This is the sector to the L & R of the prominent horn. Although some of the routes are a bit short, there are some really good easy routes. The routes are very concentrated. This is the best granny trad crag in the Eastern Cape. There are so many routes for beginners.. Eat The Rich m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up short L facing open book with nasty overhang. Onto the easy ramp. Up the arête of the easy ramp.. Absolute Autocracy 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up the break just R of Eat The Rich. Gain the easy ramp. Up the middle of the easy ramp to the ridge.. Vertical Warriors m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Start up a L facing open book. Then into a chimney break, onto the ramp. Climb the easy LH side of the ramp to the ridge.. Grabbing the Goose By The Balls m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up over the protruding sections, moving R into an open book. Then up the easy ramp to the ridge.. Peter Pan - m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up chimney to the L of the bolted route up the horn.. Holy Crack Same start as Genesis, then move L into a crack. Continue up trending L onto the arête. Top out on the ridge.. Genesis m Uwe Haller????(T,B & C) This is the bolted line up the horn.. Duck Soup Alternate Finnish m Mark Berry???? (T&C) Start in open book just R of Genesis. Break out of open book and onto front face. End on the chains of Genesis.. Duck Soup Direct m Mark Berry???? (T&C) Start in open book just R of Genesis. Stay in the open book, exiting on the arête to the R. Easy ground to the top of the ridge. 0. Water Babies m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up break in slab about a meter R of the arête. Into the chimney formed by the horn.. Thirty Two m Derek Marshall & ChrisTe-Braake /0/00 (T) Up the blank looking slab m to the L of Piton Crack.. Piton Crack - *** m????? (T&B on top) Awesome L facing open book. This is a true classic.. Flash Dance m Andrew Forsyth & Dave Anderson /0/ (T) Crack m to the R of Piton Crack.. A Night At The Opera m Andrew Forsyth & Alan Briers /0/ (T) Up the arête m R of Piton Crack. 0. Speak the Word - m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up L Facing overhanging open book. Move L into juggy break. Top out.. Back in the Day m Tim Robertson 0 (T) Up L Facing overhanging open book. Straight up. BACK IN THE DAYS SECTOR 0 0 0

20 . Herman The German - 0 m Stefan Hoelz & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up easy arête. Through bush & up easy ground to the top.. Oh Happy Days - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up LH side of broken face. LH L facing open book ramp.. Twisting like A Snake - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up the middle of the broken face, just to the L of the short overhanging chimney. 0. Grasp Your Sword - m Allen Luck & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Same start as Grasp Your Sword, then move R into an easy open book. Keep trending R over the "cave".. No Pardon! No Prisoners! - m Craig Bester & Allen Luck /0/00 (T) Up easy broken ramp. L into large open book.. Time Has Bought Fire - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up easy ramp into short L facing open book. Easy ground to the top.. Clarity Crack - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up the broken break.m R of Time Has Bought Fire.. The Change - m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up the jugs 0.m R of Clarity Crack. Near the top traverse L to the abseil bollard on the top of the ridge.. Pie in The Sky m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 0/0/00 (T) Easy break m L of chimney.. Crushed Like a Grass Hopper 0 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Start up chimney then up easy ramp.. Way in the Sky m Allen Luck & Stefan Hoelz /0/00 (T) Open book, then up LH side of block.. A NU Wankathon - ** m Derek Marshall & Chris Te-Braake /0/00 (T) Up ramp below awesome roof crack. Through the roof.. Bird Man Crack m Chris Te-Braake & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up off width, then move L onto the RH side of the Block. 0. Jihad & a Mouthful of Peanut Butter - m Derek Marshall & Chris Te-Braake /0/00 (T) Up the unlikely arête.. Ja Back in The Days - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up the prominent open book.. Ja I Remember m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up L facing small open book, m R of Ja Back in The Days.. Alzheimer's Arête - m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Up the arête just R of Ja I Remember.. Tany Mossies Crack - 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Chimney.. SS Grannies - 0 0m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Arête to R of Chimney. DAWN ROCKS This on ridge line at the second pimple R of the Main Slipper. Not great climbing. DAWN ROCKS. Dirty Suicide m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Break in middle of LH rock.. Never Ever m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Close to the LH arête.. Sole Survivor m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up using any means possible.. Don t Surrender to The Man m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Easy break. VINLAND 0 VINLAND

21 . The Heretic m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Short slab onto ledge, up prominent break.. All I Need m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up slab over veg gully to gain crack to R of gully.. City Veg m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Up curving veg gully.. Who I Am m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up nice break.. Tomorrow I ll be Gone m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall /0/00 (T) Wide break.. Restless Gypsy m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up between two easy breaks.. Running in the Wind m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Broken wide break, move L near the top, into tiny R facing open book.. Running Free * 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) LH side of the arête.. Taming My Seven Seas * 0m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up on RH side of arête. WISH MASTER This small & insignificant crag is to the L & below Vinland. S.0 E0.. Riding the Breeze m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Short broken arête. Nice clean.. Catch Me If You Think You Can m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 0/0/00 (T) Short broken face on nice clean rock.. You By My Side m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) LH diagonal over loose block. Finger crack.. Over the Hills & Far Away m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Twin cracks.. Count the Days m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) RH arête.. Away 0 m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Crap Chimney to the R. WISH MASTER WISH MASTER The next three routes are further R on a very small buttress.. Wish I had an Angel m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Easy RH arête.. Angel Tonight m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) Up the middle.. Provocation m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 0/0/00 (T) RH arête.

22 THE WONDERER THE WONDERER Easy small crag with good rock quality.. To the End m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T). Spirit in the Wind m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Off width open book.. Last Commandment m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Jagged easy crack.. Darkness Gone Away m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester /0/00 (T) Up crack just L of arête. FARMER BROWN FARMER BROWN The following crags are to the right of the main Lady Slipper area. As you turn off the tar road onto Van Stadens Road (dirt), take the track that leads to a small flat roofed farm house set in the middle of an un-fenced, cleared land. Please politely ask the famer if you can climb on his land. He is very obliging. Park as far as you can up the track along the trees on the RH side of his property. Bundu bash to the crags. This is the best looking prominent face above this farmers land. All the routes were soloed by Morne van der Mescht & Derek Marshall on a low interest day. It s not really worth carrying in a rack, but if you have to climb it all.. Easy Slab Derek Marshall 00. Mad Slab Morne van der Mescht 00. Prom Crack Derek Marshall 00. Lekker Crack Morne van der Mescht 00. Not Bad - Derek Marshall 00. Pretty Cool Derek Marshall 00 KINSLAY KINSLAY This is the PE face of the buttress just to the R of the trees that line the track on the RH side of the cleared lands. Very short, but some fun.. Chicken Fingers m Terance Travaskis & Derek Marshall 0//000 (T) From the lowest point. Move m R to block ramp. Up trending R.. Kinslayer 0m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis 0//000 (T) Up L trending diagonal crack, through slight overhang.. Flipping Hell 0* 0m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis 0//000 (T) Start just L of L facing wide open book. Up L trending diagonal.. Terrorized m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis 0//000 (T) Start just L of L facing wide open book Straight up onto ledge. Open book to the top.. Teradactyl m Terance Travaskis & Derek Marshall 0//000 (T) Up ramp open book. Straight up.. Finished

23 m Terance Travaskis & Derek Marshall 0//000 (T) Up most un-broken slab line to the R. DOOMSLAY 00m R of Kinslay is a small wave out crop. The routes are short, but challenging.. Fall From Grace Derek Marshall & Terrence Travaskis 0//000 (T) Up steps into steep crack.. Give Me More - Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis 0//000 (T).m L of arête. Up crack them move L to top out. DOOMSLAY. Play Master * Derek Marshall & Terrance Travaskis 0//000 (T) Up staying on LH side of arête.. Dream Maker * Derek Marshall & Terrence Travaskis 0//000 (T) RH side of arête. TARAGON This is the smaller outcrop of rock about 00m further along the road towards van Stadens Gorge. Taragon is on private land. Please approach the owners with caution & respect. They are well disposed towards climbers & don t normally have any issue with people wanting to climb on their land.. Franky Doodle m Franco Jacobs & Derek Marshall February 00 (T) This route follows a line directly below the highest point. Up a ramp to a large open book crack. Step r into a good crack then trend L to belay from the highest point.. The Flame m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis //00 (T) Start in the open book about m L of the prominent overhang. Move up & R onto a ramp, then a little L onto an arête. Easy ground onto a large ledge. Up the prominent open book. Then L over easy ground to the top.. Paint it Black m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis //00 (T) Obvious, but not fantastic R facing open book.. Show no Mercy m Derek Marshall & Terance Travaskis //00 (T) Up layaway to the L on semi-freestander. TARAGON