First edition, October 2013 Ofer Blutrich, All rights reserved

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1 Nezer cave guidebook First edition, October 2013 Ofer Blutrich, All rights reserved Climbing is a dangerous activity, which can lead to serious injury or death. Neither the author nor anyone else involves in the production of this guide accept responsibility for errors it may contain. The author is not liable for any personal injury or damage to property arising from the use of this guidebook. This guidebook of Nezer cave does not imply a legal right to climb there. Enjoy and climb safe, for any question or problems with this guidebook please contact me at Blutrich@gmail.com Ofer Blutrich on "Tour de force" 7c+ Alon Brookstein

2 Introduction and logistics History: Nezer cave is a unique crag in Israel. This cave was discovered by Alon Malachi who was familiar with the cave for years but it was only in 2005 when he understood the cave potential for rock climbing. At that point Alon called Ofer Blutrich to have a look at the cave and to give his opinion about the potential of the place. The firsts bolters were - Alon Malachi, Elad Omer, Ofer Blutrich, Oren Nogradi, Shay Hakim, Shimon Bari and some other friends. In the first two weeks of bolting, there were already five new routes, some of them were easy and some of them were future projects. At that time, the hardest routes in Israel were graded 8a, so difficulty wise Nezer made the quantum leap for Israel climbing community adding the hardest lines in the country to date. The routes that was bolted in the beginning were - two warm ups routes about 6b+, "Haagen dazs" 7a, "Toffee" 7b+/c, "Tour de force" 7c+ and the hardest was "Blue bear", who received his first ascent in 2007 by Ofer Blutrich and was considered the first and only 8b in Israel at that time. Two years later Ofer put up "Matrix" Israel's first 8c. For many years the cave existence kept in secret due to access issues. But in 2012 it was open to the public and it is for all of us to enjoy. Nezer is an amazing cave which inhabitant some of the most beautiful lines and some of the hardest climbs of Israel. I hope this guidebook will help you enjoy the place and keep it unique and tranquil nature. Logistics: Season: Climbing is possible from April till November, and if it is a dry year December- February can also be good. Climbing gear: 50m rope and 12 quickdraws. Camping: There is a free camp site not too far called "Ella park"(see map) when you can camp over night. Make sure you bring water with you because there is no tap. Food: Coffee shop, ice cream and restaurant in "Koh" junction, supermarket is in a distance of 30 minutes drive to "Kiryat Shmona" city. Sun: Most of the cave is in the shade all day except the left side of "Toffee" sector which is in the shade until noon.

3 Communication: There is no cellular reception from the parking onward. Ethics: 1. Only certified bolter's of the "Israeli climbing club" are allowed to bolt in the cave 2. Close all gates behind you, the approach goes through private land. 3. When you park, don t block the way- big agriculture machine need to go there. If there is no space there - park at Hussein observatory. 4. No Toilet- the cave is not your bathroom, pleases go outside as far as you can, don t leave toilet paper behind you. Bury it or burn it with caution. 5. If you came across a loose bolt you can tighten it with a 17 no. nut tool. 6. Don t take the fixed draws for granted, take a second look and don t be shy to replace them with yours, they are old. 7. Please don t cut or modify the fig tree. 8. Finish climbing? Great! Don't forget to pack your trash, and look around to see if the cave is clean and nice as it was when you came in.

4 Direction to Nezer cave: Driving: 1. Head north on route no Turn left on "koh" (pronounced ko- a-ch) junction, toward route no Turn right to route Keep straight till you get on your left an observatory called "Hussein observatory". 5. Turn left stay on the paved road leading downward. 6. Keep straight and park before the first gate on a big curve in the road.

5 Approach: From the parking, walk down on the paved road, pass through a small pedestrian gate, make sure to close it behind you. Walk for 200m downhill and when the road gets level you will see on your right another gate, pass through it and close it behind you. Start walking straight (west) and a bit upward in an open field. Follow a small path in the grass. After another 200m you will see a big fig tree growing from the cave floor, go down on the cave's stairs located on the south edge of the cave, once you reach the cave floor there is two possibilities: 1. Turn immediately to the right trough the fig tree to reach "Toffee sector", or 2. Continue straight to reach "Madness" sector. THE CAVE FROM A BIRD'S EYE: TOUR DE FORCE 7c+ (18) MADNESS 8b+ () TOFFEE 7b+ (13) MATRIX 8c (27) TOP TRENTA 6a+ ENTRANCE

6 Sector "Toffee" Top Trenta 6a+ (Valeri Frumkin, 2013 FA: Valeri Frumkin) 2. Ice breaker 6a+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2013 FA: Ofer Blutrich) Ice tea 7a (Ofer Blutrich, 2013 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 4. Warm Up 6b+ (Elad Omer, Alon Malachi, Ofer Blutrich, Shay Hakim, 2005 FA: Elad Omer) 5. The Light 6b (Elad Omer, Alon Malachi, Ofer Blutrich, Shay Hakim, 2005 FA: Ofer Blutrich)

7 Sector "Toffee" Hard Rain 7a+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2012, FA: Ofer Blutrich) 7. Skinny Cow 7a (Ofer Blutrich, 2013 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 8. Haagen Dazs 7a (Elad Omer, 2005 FA: Elad Omer) 9. Dr. Lek 8a (Ofer Blutrich, 2013, FA: Ofer Blutrich) 10. Breezer 7c+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2012 FA: Ofer Blutrich) *no chains, need to top out* 11. Bosch Rider *Used to be 7b+ now open project because a hold was broken* (Ofer Blutrich, 2012)

8 Sector "Toffee" Supritza spetznaz 8a+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2012 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 13. Finding Toffee 7b+ (Alon Malachi, 2005 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 14. Iron Man 8a (Oren Nogradi, Ofer Blutrich, 2010 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 15. Project (?) (Ofer Blutrich, 2013) 16. Rolex direct 8b+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2011 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 17. Rolex 8b (Ofer Blutrich, 2009 FA: Ofer Blutrich)

9 Sector "Tour de force" Rolex direct 8b+/c (Ofer Blutrich, 2011 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 17. Rolex 8b (Ofer Blutrich, Oren Nogradi, 2009 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 18. Tour de force 7c+ (Alon Malachi, Shimon Bari, 2005 FA: Shimon Bari) 19. Super chacknova 8a (Ofer Blutrich, 2010 FA: Ofer blutrich) 20. Blue Bear 8b (Alon Malachi, Ofer Blutrich, Shai Hakim, Elad Omer, 2005 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 21. Jurassic park 8b (Ofer Blutrich, 2008, FA: Ofer Blutrich)

10 Sector "Madness" Madness 8b+ (Ofer Blutrich, 2008, FA: Ofer Blutrich) *In order to climb on Madness and you need to clip the second bolt, go up on the rope and start climbing from there. 23. Underground 8b (Ofer Blutrich, 2007 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 24. Blitz 21 8b (Ofer Blutrich, 2011,FA: Ofer Blutrich) 25. Neo Project (Ofer Blutrich, 2013) 26. Nezer Tour 8c ( ) (FA: Ofer Blutrich, 2010) 27. Project (?) (Valeri Frumkin, 2013) 28. Matrix 8c (Ofer Blutrich, 2009 FA: Ofer Blutrich) 29. Open Project (?) (Ofer Blutrich, 2010)

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