c. quality of rock, anchors, etc.
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1 BASIC VERTICAL SKILLS Claesroom Training I. PURPOSE A. Basic ve~tical Equipment 1. software a. rope b. webbing 2. Hardware a. carabiners b. descenders c. ascenders B. Minimal Personal Skills 1. Basic knots 2. Harnesses C. special Considerations 1n Rescue 1. Loads 2. weather cond1tions 3. Constraints a. experience b. fati9ue c. quality of rock, anchors, etc. 4. Extra caution '"
2 II. SAFETY A. Proper Equipment B. Proper Training C. Equipment Check D. Backups E. Double Checking III. EQUIPMENT A. Software 1. Materials a. nylon/perlon b. tenstron c. everything else 2. Construct1on a. laid b. kernmantel c. braided d. woven 3. Design requirements a. static vs dynamic loads b. linear vs non-linear stretch c. strength d. abrasion resistance e. handling (friction, flexibility, weight) f. water absorption g. chemical resistance h. heat resistance (storage; use) i. radiation resistance _---_._-_... _-_.
3 4. strength factors a. material b. construction c. size/number of yarns d. a9'~ e. wear (50' rule) f. damage g. knots/bends (50' rule) h. sunlight i. temperature j. water 5. Care & feeding a. storage (dry, cool, dark) b. inspection (after use, c. use (chemicals, light, during use) mechanical damage) d. washing/drying e.retiring B. HardWare 1. Materials a. steel b. aluminum alloy 2. Construction a. casting b. machining 3. Design requirements a. strength b. weight ",' ' -----~--~--~---"
4 4. strength factors a. material b. construction c. flaws d. wear e. damage f. temperature 5. Care & feeding' a. etorag'e b. inspection c. handling d. dontt oil IV. ROPES (w/examples) A. Laid vs. Kernmantle 1. GolcUine a. hig'h linear stretch (climbing') 2.Mamlftut a. non-linear stretch (climbing') B. Climbing vs. Caving' 1. Bluewater II a. low linear stretoh (caving) 2. PMI a. hig'h abrasion resistano.,low stretch (caving) V. WEBBING (w/.xamples) A. "Tubular" 1. Helical woven 2. Edge stitched _-
5 B. Flat 1. Climbing 2. Straps C. Uses 1. Harnesses 2. Protection (climbing) 3. Anchors (cllimbing) VI. KNOTS (w/demonstration, practice) A. Nomencl~ture 1. Knot 2. Bend 3. Standing line (line, rope) 4. Running end (bitter end, end) 5. Bight 6. Loop B. Backups 1. Overhand knot (minimum) 2. Barrel/double fishermans knot (recommended) C. Basic Knots 1. Square/reef knot (seat harnes.es) a. joining ends b. not for load-bearing c. granny knot 2. Figure 8 a. rope end loops (harne tie-in) b. stopper knots 3. Ring/overhand bend/water knot._ _.._---_.
6 a. webbing loops 4. Simple bowline a. secure loops b. good for variable strain 5. Bowline-on-a-c011 a. direct rope t1e-1n VII. HARNESSES (w/examples) A. Purpose 1. Comfort 2. Safet.y a. chest compress10n 3. Efficiency 4. Ascender/desaender connect10n B. Seat harneseee (should aleo have che.t harnees) --, 1. D1rect t1e-~n 2. Swami belt 3. Belt + le9 loops 4. corpmercial 5. Home made a. sewn b. t1ed (w/demonstrat10n, pract1ce) c. Chest harnesses (not used w/o seat harne ) 1. Commercial 2. Home made a. sewn b. t1ed (w/demonetrat10n, ptaet1ce)
7 3. Special purpose a. chest box b. Simmons roller
8 REFERENCES 1. William Halliday, American Caves and CaVing, Harper' Row 2. Harvey Manning (Ed.), Mquntaineering The Freedom of the Hills, Seattle Mountaineers 3. Neil Montgom.rYJ Single Rope Techniques, sydney Speleological Society 4. Tim Setnicka, Wilderness Search and Rescue, Appalachian Mountain Club 5. Walt Wheelock, Ropes, Knots and Slings for Cli~ersJ La Siesta Press 6. Toni Williams (Ed.), Manual of u.s. Cave Rescue Techniques, National Speleological Society 7. Equipment catalogs. aecreational EqUipment, Inc. PO Box C-88l2S, Seattle, WA The Gendarme PO Box 53 Seneca Rocks, WV 26844
9 J.E. Weinel, Inc. PO Box 213 Valencia, PA California Mountain Company, Ltd. PO Box 6602 Santa Barbara CA ,,'<
10 I. PURPOSE A. Minimal Personal Skills 1. Basic rigging 2. Be1ay'1ng 3. rappe1ing 4. ascending s. self-rescue SAFETY A. Proper Equipment: 1. rope 2. rope pads 3. harness 4. helmet s. gloves 6. boots 7. carabiners 8. descending gear a. carabiners b. figure-8 c. rack 9. ascending gear a. knots b. semi-mechanical BASIC VERTICAL SKILLS Field Training c mechanical
11 B. Bac){ups 1. load. line/belay line 2. knots C. Double Check D. Signals 1. Rock 2. Rope 3. On rope/off rope 4. On b&lay/off belay 5. Selay on/belay off 6. Up rope 7. Tension 8. Slack 9. On rapell/off rapell 10 Palling E. Suggestions 1. When in doubt, ask 2. When uncertain, don't III, BASIC RIGGING A. Purpose 1. Individual descending/ascending (SRT) 2. Lowering/hauling systems 3. Load minimization 4. redundancy,.
12 B. Anchors _/ l. Natural a. rocks b. trees 2. Artificial a. nuts b. pitons c. bolts 3. Multiple a. simple backup b. self-equalizing 4. Webbing a. uses b. limits 5. Know your limitsl a. rigging specialists for litter hauls c. Rope Protection 1. Padding 2. Re-direction 3. Rock fall a. damage to rope b. caused by rope D. stress Management 1. Geometry 1,1,
13 2. Knots a. stress concentration b. "tensionless" rigging c. re-rigging under load 3. Wear points E. Carabiners 1. Locking 2. Reverse gates 3. Loading a. major vs minor axis b. gate loading c torque 4. Variable loading (rotation) 5. Use in rigging F. Precautions 1. Short rope (end loop) IV. BELAYING A. Belayer Protection 1. Secure stance 2. Objective hazards B. Belayer Tie-in 1. "Aiming" belay 1. Anchor direction
14 c. Belay Technique 1. Rope position a. over/under tie-in b. use of carabiner 2. Guide hand 3. Braking hand a. never leaves the rope 4. Braking 5. Feeding out rope 6. Taking in rope D. Limitations 1. Mechanical aids a. sticht plate b. figure 8 c. rack E. Belay Practice V. RAPPELING A. Arm Rappel 1. Limitations a. slope b.. run-out 2. Technique a. number of wraps b. braking action 3. Practice
15 B. Body (Oulfersitz) Rappel 1. Limitations a. slope b. run-out 2. Technique a. rope position b. braking action c. leg position d. b.ody protection 3. Practice C. Problems of Mechanical Rappels 1. Harness/descender required 2. Single point failures 3. Hot-dogging O. Bottom Belay 1. Technique 2. Oemonstration (practice as part of rappeling) E. Carabiner wrap 1. Limitationa a. distance, speed, weight b. fixed friction 2. Technique a. carabiner orientation b. rope position 3. Practice
16 F. Figure-8 1. Limitations a. distanoe, speed, weight b. fixed friotion b. aqoidental look-up (ears) 2. Teohnique a. attaohment to rope b. figure 8 orientation o. harness attaohment d. oarabiner orientation 3. Praotice G. Raok 1. Limitations a. d1stance, speed, we1ght 2. Techn1que a. rack orientation b. gross control (number of bars) c. fine control (bar spac1ng) 3. Practice H. Tie-offs 1. Demonstration A. carabiner wrap b. figure 8 c. rack 2. Practice
17 I VI. ASCENDING A. Points of attachment 1. 2-point rigs ~ 2. 3-point rigl!l 3. Failures 4. Rest position 8. Knots 1. Advantagel!l a. l!i~mp1icity 2. Disadvantages a. jammed knots b. slipping knotl!l 3. Practice (pruslsik) c. Bachmann IIKnot" 1. Advantages "'-" a. non-jamming 2. Disadvantages a. more complex b. slippage 3. Practice D. Mechanical Systeml!l (wi example.) 1. Jumar-typa 2. Gibbs
18 3. Advantages/disadvantages a. speed h. ease of use c. security d. rope damage E. Descending on Ascenders (Knots) 1. Demonstration 2. Practice VII SELF-RESCU:&: A. Rappel-to-Ascend 1. Preparation 2. Tie-off rappel 3. Attach ascenders 4. Remove d,escender B. Ascend-to-Rappel 1. preparation 2. Rest position 3. Attach descender " tie-off 4. Remove ascender 5. Remove tie-off VIII THE PROOF IS LEFT TO THE READER A. Person stuck on Rope (2 rope extrication) B. Pinned Belayer
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