Response of Some 3:1 Haul Systems to Excessive Loading THOMAS EVANS, SAR 3
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1 Response of Some 3:1 Haul Systems to Excessive Loading THOMAS EVANS, SAR 3
2 Why Study Haul Systems? Limited by personal study Want more than I can find What I have been trained: Often wrong Test what I have been taught Curiosity How?
3 The Prusik Clutch Haul system loaded Prusik slips at ~5.3 kn (1200 lbs) Limits load As load increases Prusik slips again Keeps load low ~5.3 kn (12000 lbs)
4 The Prusik Clutch Does the prusik clutch exist? I have never seen it during prusik testing Does it work the way I was taught? How does it work? How variable is it?
5 Design: Empiricism Built 3:1 haul systems Two configurations Hauling Resetting Observed properties when loaded Failure Slippage
6 Materials Rope/cord donated by PMI 8mm cord (nylon) Cut into 41, 48 lengths Alternating along spool Tied with double fisherman s bends All tied by author for consistency
7 Materials Rope 11.5mm Isostatic (polyester) 11mm Classic Pro EZ (nylon) 11mm Classic Sport Max (nylon) 129 lengths
8 Methods Inline 3:1 haul system Z-rig Appears most common Broader applicability?
9 Methods Built in two configurations During a haul During a reset
10 Methods Slow pull, ~8 /minute Omega LCCA-15K 200 measurements/second Data scaling None needed for reset configuration 3/2 scaling needed for hauling configuration
11 Methods Hauled on anchor Rope stretch Should not alter results Anchored/ stationary
12 Methods Hauled on anchor Rope stretch Should not alter results Anchored/ stationary
13 Results: Box and Whisker Plots Displays descriptive statistics Compare data sets rapidly
14 Sample Peak Loads (kn) Results: During a Haul 17 Isostatic (N=12) All broke at bowline Classic Pro EZ (N=13) 9 slipped, no breakage 2 knots failed 2 prusiks failed Classic Sport Max (N=11) All slipped, no breakage Isostatic Classic Pro EZ Classic Sport Max
15 Force (lbs) Force (lbs) Force (lbs) 4000 Results: During a Haul Prusik slippage All prusiks slipped at least once Range of initial slippage forces Range of future slippage forces Sample Isostatic Sample Classic Sport Max 0 Sample Classic Pro EZ
16 Results: During a Haul Prusik slippage 4 as expected 32 increasing
17 Force (lbs) Force (lbs) Force (lbs) 4000 Results: During a Haul Sample Isostatic Sample Classic Sport Max 0 Sample Classic Pro EZ
18 Sample Peak Load (kn) Results: During a Reset 28 Isostatic (N=16) 11 mantles failed 2 prusiks failed ropes cut 1 slipped, no breakage Classic Pro EZ (N=16) slipped, no breakage 3 mantles failed 12 prusiks failed Classic Sport Max (N=10) 12 3 mantles failed 7 prusiks failed 10 8 Isostatic Classic Pro EZ Classic Sport Max
19 Results: Broken Rope Two broken rope samples
20 Force (lbs) Force (lbs) Force (lbs) 4000 Results: During a Reset Prusik slippage All prusiks slipped at least once Range of initial slippage forces Range of future slippage forces Sample Isostatic Sample Classic Sport Max 0 Sample Classic Pro EZ
21 Sample Peak Load (kn) Sample Peak Loads (kn) Conclusions A range of responses 14 No one answer Test your own gear Strengths were not as high as expected Strong enough for SOP s/sog s? Isostatic Classic Pro EZ Classic Sport Max During a Haul Isostatic Classic Pro EZ Classic Sport Max During a Reset
22 Force (lbs) Rigging Consequences 4000 If a prusik slips Reduce forces! Obvious May or may not get another slip Prusik or mantle breaks Rope cut Sample Classic Sport Max
23 Conclusions: Prusik Clutch 4000 It exists Why not observed before? Does not behave as expected Variability! Prusiks slip at higher values Does not keep force low Slows down failures
24 What s The Point? When will I generate these forces? Practically rarely occurs Know when getting close Explains how systems are working Variability! Teach the variability! Reduce rigging lore
25 Acknowledgements CMC provided Laboratory time Laboratory equipment Staff time PMI provided the rope and cord Cedric Smith for running the equipment/time Loui McCurley for facilitating rope and cord donation
26 Questions?
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