Beginner s Guide. St. George s Archery Club

Transcription

1 Beginner s Guide St. George s Archery Club

2 Contents Introduction 1 Safety Basics Shooting Control 3 Range Layout 4 Actions 6 Safety First 7 Etiquette 8 Field Captaincy 10 Equipment 13 Basic Bow Set-Up 18 Rounds 21 Handicaps & Classifications 23 Scoring 24 Warming Up 26 Winter Shooting 28 Indoor Shooting 29 Glossary 30 More information 33 First Year What Next? 35 Things To Try 36 Ten Steps Stand 38 Make a Hook 39 Set Bow Hand 40 Raise 41 Draw 42 Anchor 43 Hold 44 Aim 45 Release 46 Follow-through 47

3 Introduction Congratulations on successfully completing your beginners course and welcome to St. George s Archery Club. Your course taught you how to shoot safely and reasonably confidently but you ll no doubt feel that much of archery remains a complete mystery to you with large gaps in your knowledge. This guide is intended to start filling some of those gaps. In your first year as a novice archer you still have much to learn about the theory and craft of archery and, most enjoyably, its practice. Enjoy your journey in the sport wherever it may take you. Keep learning and if you can t find the answer to something simply ask a coach or a more experienced archer. In archery there really is no such thing as a daft question Most of all - enjoy your shooting. St. George s Archery Club Harrogate August

4 Safety

5 Shooting Control All shooting takes place under the control of a field captain. The field captain will usually control shooting by blowing a whistle. A single blast means that shooting can commence. Three blasts mean that all archers on the line have completed shooting and that it is safe to walk down the range and collect arrows. A series of rapid blasts means the same as the shouted command Fast explained below. To avoid any dangerous confusion a whistle must only be used for range control in areas where no other whistles are in use. Verbal Commands The whistle signals to start shooting and to collect arrows can be replaced by the verbal commands Safe to shoot and Safe to collect. There are two other verbal commands: FAST! - This is normally shouted by someone observing an unsafe situation on or around the range. When Fast is shouted it is of vital importance that you STOP SHOOTING IMMEDIATELY regardless of where you are with your current shot. Remove the arrow from your bow and place it in your quiver. No further shooting must take place until a command to start shooting is given by the field captain. Come Down - On hearing this you should relax the tension on your bowstring without letting go of it. Then lower your bow so that the arrow is pointing at the ground. This is usually used by coaches who wish to discuss a point with you. 3.

6 Range Layout The range is divided into areas, each with a specific purpose: Shooting Range is between the targets and the shooting line. For safety purposes this is surrounded by a zone that extends 20 yards to either side of the outermost bosses and a minimum of 50 yards to the rear of the target line. This is to provide safe overshoot areas for arrows that miss the boss. Nobody is allowed in these areas while shooting is taking place. Shooting Line. This is the point from which arrows are shot at the targets. Archers may stand with one foot each side of the line to shoot but can only cross it on instruction from the field captain. The area between this line and the Waiting Line is normally kept clear. Waiting Line. This is a minimum of 5 yards behind the shooting line. After finishing their shots archers return behind the waiting line taking their equipment with them. They wait for a command from the field captain to collect their arrows. All archers should be behind the waiting line when they are not actually shooting and this is where archers normally leave their equipment. Spectator or Tent Line. This is a minimum of 10 yards behind the waiting line. It is where archers pitch their tents and shelters when competing. It is also the line that any spectators should remain behind. The layout of the field for outdoor shooting and showing the minimum safety distances required is illustrated overleaf. For normal club sessions you ll find that the shooting line is usually the only line put in place. We use a virtual waiting line and archers who aren t shooting leave a clear space of three or four yards behind the shooting line. If you loiter on the shooting line you can expect to be asked politely to step back by the field captain. 4.

7 THE FIELD Outdoor shooting. Minimum safety distances shown. Diagram not to scale Overshoot distance - see note below Minimum 20 yards Minimum 20 yards Minimum 10 yards Minimum 10 yards S H O O T I N G L I N E Minimum 5 yards W A I T I N G L I N E Minimum 10 yards T E N T L I N E Overshoot Distances For bows shot off the fingers: At target distances up to 60 yards the overshoot line shall be at least 110 yards from the shooting line. At target distances over 60 yards the overshoot line shall be at least 50 yards from the target line. For bows shot with mechanical release aids (ie. compound bows) at all target distances the overshoot line shall be at least 150 yards from the shooting line. Boss spacing For four archers (the usual club maximum number of archers per boss) the minimum spacing between bosses is 3 yards. If space allows bosses can be set wider apart. 5.

8 Actions Approach to the target(s) Always approach the targets by walking towards the gaps in between the bosses. Never walk directly towards a target because arrows stuck in it at eye level are difficult to see directly from the front. A moment of inattention when close to the target could result in serious injury from walking onto them. There may be arrows sticking in the ground. Look out for these when walking up the range to collect. Pulling arrows Arrows are pulled while standing at the side of the boss. A great deal of force can be needed to remove an arrow resulting in it travelling backwards at some speed. This makes the nock as dangerous as the pile. Other archers should stand well clear of the front of the boss by at least two yards. Never stand in front of the target as serious injury could result if the person pulling arrows hasn t checked to make sure all was clear before pulling. Setting up a target This is always a two-person job as straw bosses are heavy and awkward to handle: The stand or A frame is opened out to full width with the rear leg firmly kicked back to ensure that the boss is leaning onto the stand with no danger of it toppling forward. Two people then lift the boss onto the stand with correct technique - bent legs and straight backs. The maker s label to goes to the back and the boss is fully seated on its supports. Target face Boss For outdoor shooting, the boss is then fully secured with a rope tie-down. The target face is pinned to the boss with target pins. Target stand The maximum number of archers per boss for normal club shooting is four. If there are already four archers using the boss at the distance you wish to shoot, please set up a new boss. Ask for help if you need it. 6.

9 Safety First Be sure to remove any jewellery that might catch in the bowstring. Tie long hair back before shooting. Never point a bow, with or without an arrow loaded, anywhere other than towards the target or at the ground in front of the shooting line. Only nock an arrow onto the string when you are on the shooting line. Never draw and loose a bow without an arrow loaded in it. Dry firing can cause severe damage to the limbs of the bow. Never shoot with a damaged bow or arrow. Never shoot vertically upwards what goes up must come down! It is virtually impossible to see an arrow travelling at speed towards you. Always look out for arrows on the ground you can damage them and they can damage you! Always check behind you when pulling arrows from the boss to make sure people are standing at least 2 yards clear. Never cross the shooting line unless you have heard three blasts on the whistle. Even then always check that all shooting has ceased. Always walk when on the shooting range and move down the gaps between the targets, never directly towards the targets. Always make sure that the arrows you are using are the correct length for you and the bow you are using. If in doubt ask a coach. Don t wear open topped shoes or sandals when shooting. Always remember that the bow and arrow is a potentially lethal weapon. No acts of foolishness, horseplay or misuse will be tolerated. 7.

10 Etiquette There are a number of informal rules relating to the polite behaviour expected of Club members. Please make sure you play your part in making shooting at club and elsewhere safe and enjoyable for everyone. An archer: asks permission before touching or picking up another archer s equipment; only walks behind the target boss to retrieve arrows when the scores have been recorded; does not talk in a loud voice or make noise while others are shooting; only offers advice when it is asked for or it is needed for reasons of safety; does not impose him/herself on fellow archers who prefer to remain silent; refrains from commenting unfavourably to another archer on their shooting or their scores; does not move around the shooting line talking about their own scores or comparing them with other archers; refrains from expressing his/her feelings on the shooting line either physically or verbally; does not join or leave the shooting line when the archers next to him/her are at full draw; does not leave an archer to shoot alone on the line. If you are next to last on the line, wait on the line for the remaining archer to finish before going back behind the waiting line; avoids causing annoyance to others through the use of mobile phones, MP3 players, smoking etc; 8.

11 picks up litter; always asks if they may join others who are already shooting on a target; always offers to pay for damage they have caused to another archer s arrows through carelessness; always assists in looking for any lost arrows due to archers missing the target; always thanks the target captain and scorer at the end of each round/competition for the work done on their behalf, and also thanks all those on the target for their company; ALWAYS assists in the putting up and/or taking down of target bosses; and When finishing shooting ALWAYS checks to see if the boss they are shooting on is required by anyone else and, if not, removes it to storage. Also checks if any other bosses are ready for removal. The last two are highlighted because they are important for the smooth running of the club. We try to avoid a situation where people have drifted off home leaving lots of bosses on the field for the last couple of club members to put away. You might think that people won t notice if you arrive late for a session when things have already been set up and then quietly leave before the session ends to avoid the work of putting equipment away. But you d be wrong and this can cause much resentment. Please come to the club prepared to do your bit. 9.

12 Field Captaincy The field captain is responsible for ensuring that the field has been properly laid out, that safety rules are observed, and that shooting is conducted safely. If the club s nominated field captain isn t on the field then the most senior member shooting should adopt the role. One day that person might just be you even though you re a novice, so it s best to be prepared. The safety of the club s members and the general public is paramount and it is the field captain s responsibility to manage the set-up of the shooting range and to control shooting to maximise safety. This involves: ensuring that the archery range and field are safe and free of obstacles and members of the public, and that targets are set up correctly at the appropriate distances; using whistle commands to control shooting; when shooting is in progress making sure all shooting archers are standing astride the shooting line; ensuring that archers behaviour adheres to safe shooting practices and the normal rules of etiquette, and checking that archers are standing in line with the target they are shooting at (ie. aren t shooting diagonally across the range); watching as the archers walk forward to the targets to collect, take their scores, pull arrows and return to the shooting line; at the end of the session making sure no arrows have been left on the field and that all targets, stands, shooting lines and other equipment have been removed and put away; and being the arbiter of safety and Archery GB Rules of Shooting and ensuring that all archers are complying with those rules. You ll have gathered from this that there s rather more to the field captain s role than simply blowing a whistle! So what s the best way of ensuring that you can tackle the job confidently? Check out the top tips below for aspiring field captains. 10.

13 TOP TIPS 1. Buy a whistle and keep it in your quiver so it ll be there when you need it. Just saying Whistle, whistle, whistle isn t on. If you have to use verbal commands because you have no whistle you should stick to Safe to Shoot and Safe to Collect and call them out loudly and clearly. 2. Read the club s Field Captain s Guide which will tell you everything you need to know about the job. There s a copy on the clubhouse notice board. 3. Familiarise yourself with the Archery GB Rules of Shooting, especially the sections relating to range set-up and the safe conduct of shooting. You don t need an encyclopaedic knowledge but it does help to be broadly aware of what the rules cover. There s a copy in the clubhouse or you can get them from the Archery GB website: 4. Enjoy the job and take satisfaction from knowing that you re performing a very useful and important service for your club and your clubmates. 11.

14 Basics

15 Equipment Longbows In various forms, longbows are one of the oldest styles of bows. They are more truly in the category of "straight" bows, descended from the shorter bow used by early man. Straight bows grew longer and more powerful because of the need to reach further and hit harder as the bow became a weapon as well as a tool for hunting. The English longbow is perhaps the culmination of this type of bow. The medieval English longbow was a superb weapon, and was used most effectively by the English from the end of the thirteenth century to the beginning of the sixteenth. Many battles were won through its deadly power and it was particularly decisive at Crécy and Agincourt against the French. Its long range and armour piercing qualities made it the medieval weapon of mass destruction. Modern sporting longbows feature advances in design that make them more forgiving and efficient with greater speed and accuracy. The English longbow can be crafted from either a single piece of wood (a self bow) or, more commonly, from a mixture of different woods glued together to form a laminate. A modern sporting longbow (left) with close-ups of the bow grip (centre) and nock (right) clearly showing the bow s laminated construction. The American flatbow is a good halfway house if you re not sure about shooting the longbow. It has an arrow shelf so you don t need to shoot off the hand, and it can handle either wooden or alloy arrows. They are more robust than the longbow and could be a good first traditional archery choice. The cost of a longbow runs from around 300 upwards. It is comparatively cheap compared to a recurve or compound bow with all the extras. A flatbow can be had for around 100 with prices then ranging up to about

16 Recurve Bow Commonly used for target archery and clout shooting, the recurve bow as we know it traces its ancestry to the Mediterranean region Turkey in particular. The Turks were among the first to put a double bend in their bows, although this design could also be found in ancient Japan and other Asiatic countries. The recurve design is a stroke of genius dating back thousands of years. The term recurve simply refers to the shape of the limbs. By building the limbs pre-curved at rest energy is increased when the bow is drawn. This enables the bow to be more compact but with greater power. Recurve bows typically give greater arrow speed than longbows of equal strength. A modern recurve bow provides the shooter with more easily attainable accuracy and is therefore a good choice for both beginners and experienced archers. Other equipment can be added to the bow to help improve shooting accuracy: sights, stabilisers and clickers. Or the bow may be used just as it is - riser, limbs and string - to shoot barebow-style. Top limb String Limb pocket Arrow rest Riser Limb pocket Bottom limb Sight Front stabiliser or longrod In terms of cost, a training bow such as those used by the club costs around 70. An intermediate-level bow with an alloy riser can be had for around 250 whilst a top-flight competition recurve can cost over 1,

17 Compound Bow The compound bow was invented in 1967 by Holness Wilbur Allen from Missouri, USA. Originally conceived for hunting where its short length made it easy to carry, Allen spent six years developing this revolutionary bow. The compound bow uses cams and pulleys positioned at the ends of the limbs to provide its unique fast shooting characteristics. As the bow is drawn the draw weight is absorbed by the system of cams and pulleys. This means that at full draw the archer is holding significantly less weight on his/her draw arm. This allows much more comfortable and controlled aiming. It also helps to offset the effects of fatigue, especially when large numbers of arrows are being shot. As with the recurve bow, sights and stabilisers are usually added to the compound bow in order to improve accuracy. A special release aid trigger is normally used to release the string when shooting the bow. Top limb Riser Cable guard Nocking point Grip String Compound bows tend to be more expensive because of the technology involved. You can expect to pay between 500 and 1200 for a full set up. Cam Bottom limb Release aid 15.

18 Arrows The three main materials used for arrows are wood, aluminium and carbon fibre, with a combination of the last two being common. All arrows comprise the same components irrespective of the materials from which they are made (see diagram below). Archers learn to shoot with economical aluminium arrows and graduate to better arrows as their shooting technique develops and improves. Arrow length is measured from the point where the pile meets the shaft to the bottom of the groove in the nock. Arrows are closely matched to the weight of the bow and the archer s draw length so it is best to seek expert advice when selecting arrows for your personal use. Point or pile Arrow shaft Fletching Nock Fletchings or vanes are usually of feather or plastic and give the arrow stability in flight. One fletching - called the index fletch - is usually a different colour to make it obvious. String groove For recurve bows and longbows the index fletch is Index fletch at right angles to the string position in the nock (see diagram right). When nocking the arrow in a bow the index fletch should be towards you. This allows the arrow to pass through the bow on release without contacting the riser. When you buy arrows it is a good idea to buy some spare nocks and vanes at the same time. As your shooting improves and your groupings on the target get tighter you can expect your arrows to suffer some minor damage - stripped fletchings and damaged nocks. Having a few spares to hand will allow you to repair them easily. 16.

19 ARROW SAFETY Using arrows of the correct length is critical to your safety. Drawing an arrow past the arrow rest can be dangerous and this is likely to happen if your arrow is too short for your draw length. Seek help from a coach if you are unsure about the length of your arrows. Examine your arrows after each end for damage. Ensure that the pile/point has not been left in the boss. Then check the plastic nock for any damage - it must click onto the string. NEVER attempt to shoot an arrow that you know to be damaged. Please ensure that you always count how many arrows you take onto the field and that you count the same number back in when you have finished shooting. Lost arrows are a potential hazard to children using the field and damage the club s reputation. Our insurance requires lost arrows that are not found after an extensive search to be reported and recorded. This is presently done via the whiteboard in the clubhouse. Quivers Archers carry their arrows in a quiver. This keeps them easily to hand when on the shooting line and allows them to be carried safely. Curiously, some novices seem to be quite self-conscious about wearing a quiver for the first time. If you feel that way please don t be shy - it actually looks more odd to see an archer without a quiver. A good quality quiver is a very good first purchase that will stand you in good stead for many years. Get a good one with plenty of pockets for all the stuff that you ll end up carrying as your experience grows - arrow puller, spare tab, finger-sling, pen, scorepad, chocolate bars etc. A quiver also provides a handy place to pin all the medals and badges you re going to win! 17.

20 Basic Bow Set-Up Your bow is a simple machine and needs to be assembled and checked in a methodical way to make sure it works safely and well for you. Here s some basic advice on setting-up and checking your bow and your arrows. 1. Put Your Recurve Bow Together Fit the limbs to the riser (handle). For a wooden training bow similar to that used on beginners courses, they are usually held in place with a large thumb-screw. On an intermediate-level bow with a metal riser the linbs will simply slot into the riser. Make sure they are pushed all the way home into the limb pockets. They will waggle slightly in their pockets - this is normal. Make sure that you fit the limbs the right way round. The groove for the string should be towards you as you hold the bow. The bottom limb sometimes has some small writing on it giving the bow s length and poundage or even, helpfully, the word Lower! 2. Fit The Bowstring Fit the string to the bow making sure that it is the right way up. On many bowstrings the top loop is slightly larger than the bottom loop but if both loops seem to be the same size use the nocking point as a guide. The nocking point is always nearer the top of the string s centre serving. When the bow is strung, it will be almost level with the arrow rest. Always try to keep the twists in the bowstring. They set the length of the string and therefore the bow s bracing height - an important setting. Start with the string on the side of the limbs where the string grooves are. The bottom loop is fitted to the bottom tip. The top loop is slipped down the top limb temporarily. Then use a bow-stringer for final string mounting. Ask for help if you ve not quite got the hang of using a stringer. It s one of those things best seen in the flesh rather than on paper. Once the bow is strung, remove the stringer and then check that the string is sitting properly on the shoulders of the bow tips and in the string groove on the limbs. Give the string one or two gentle twangs (an archery technical term) to settle things down. 18.

21 3. Fit The Other Components Fit the pressure button. It screws into the hole in the riser where the arrow rest is fitted. The spring-loaded button should show right above the arrow rest. If there are two holes in the riser use the one nearest you as you hold the bow in its shooting position. Fit the sight if you re shooting freestyle. Using one of the middle holes on the sight mounting bar is usually best to begin with. The bow is more accurate the further the sight sticks out in front of the bow, but the downside is that it is harder to hold steady on the gold. A middle setting is a good compromise to start with. Fit the front stabiliser (longrod) if you re shooting freestyle. This may make the bow seem a little unwieldy at first but you ll be using one eventually so you may as well get used to it right from the start. Besides, it provides a handy place to hang your hat while you go to collect your arrows. 4. Check Your Bow Before You Start Shooting Examine the riser for any splitting, cracking or deformity. Examine the limbs. Look for any damage to the bow tips or limbs. Look for any signs that the limbs are delaminating - usually indicated by small cracks or fissures, especially along the limb edges. Check the bowstring for any loose servings or signs of fraying. Check the arrow rest. Make sure it is in one piece and firmly attached to the bow s riser. Check everything is tight, including: limb bolts, pressure button, longrod, sight and sight block. NB: The mounting and adjustment screws on entry level sights tend to come undone as you shoot. Get into the habit of checking them after every end to avoid the sight falling off when it shouldn t. Double check that you have the limbs and bowstring fitted correctly. 19.

22 5. Check Your Arrows Before You Start Shooting If you are using club arrows, ask a coach to check that you have selected arrows of a safe length for your size and draw length.. Check each arrow for straightness. Examine the fletchings/vanes and ensure that they are in one piece and firmly attached to the arrow shaft. Check all arrow nocks for damage. Do not try to shoot an arrow with a damaged nock. Ensure that you can hear a click when the arrow is attached to the bowstring. Check that the arrow pile/point is firmly fitted in the arrow shaft. What To Do If You Spot a Problem You will often be able to put any small problems right yourself but if you aren t sure what to do please ask a coach or experienced archer for help. If you have any doubts about a piece of equipment always seek advice before you start using it. The safety of yourself and the archers around you is paramount. 20.

23 Rounds In target archery shooting takes the form of rounds. A round comprises a set number of arrows shot over specified distances. There are many different types of round and each one has its own name to identify it. For example, a Western round involves shooting 4 dozen arrows at 60 yards followed by 4 dozen arrows at 50 yards. The tables below list the different types of round: 21.

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25 Handicaps & Classifications Handicaps When you shoot a round, either at the club or in competition elsewhere, submit your score to the handicap officer who will then calculate from the tables in his/her possession the handicap value for that score and round. A handicap is finally given after three such scores have been submitted and an average of the three handicap values has been calculated. Classifications Archery GB classifications are gained by achieving three scores at or above the qualifying level set for a particular round. There are six classifications: 3rd Class, 2nd Class, 1st Class, Bowman, Master Bowman (MB), and Grand Master Bowman (GMB). You can achieve a 3rd, 2nd, 1st or BM (Bowman) classification score at any club shoot or competition. You can only qualify for MB (Master Bowman) and GMB (Grand Master Bowman) by submitting three scores to Archery GB from open Record Status shoots or tournaments. Similar classifications are also awarded for clout shooting - just submit a completed scoresheet for each double clout round of 72 arrows that you shoot. The handicap officer will monitor your scores and award a classification badge when you have qualified for it in return for a small fee. Classifications have to be regained each year. If you need any further information about handicaps or classifications please just ask the handicap officer or a coach who will be glad to help. 23.

26 Scoring Target faces come in different sizes and are generally of five colours: gold, red, blue, black and white. Each coloured circle is divided by a central line. This design is used by both AGB and FITA. Depending on the type of round being shot the colours can have different scoring values. This is the standard Metric Target (122 cm) with 10 zone scoring. In the centre of the gold is an extra ring which, if hit, is scored as an X (which indicates a score of 10 within the inner circle). If at the end of a tournament there is a tie on scores, the archer with the most Xs is declared the winner Imperial scoring uses five scoring zones (9,7,5,3,1) from the gold outwards. In practice, even when Imperial scoring is in play the metric target face is used. The intermediate scoring zones are simply ignored and scoring uses just the five coloured rings. There are a couple of other target faces that you may see in use. The Vegas vertical three-spot (below, left) is used by compound archers to reduce arrow damage. The Five- Spot Worcester (below, right) is used solely for the Worcester round

27 Score sheets for a variety of rounds are available for download from the club s website or may be obtained from the clubhouse. Most score sheets follow a similar format so apart from cosmetic differences in design, scoring always follows the same pattern. An example of a score sheet for a single distance indoor round - a Portsmouth (5 dozen arrows at 20 yards, metric scoring) is below: 1 st Half Dozen Half Dozen Total 2 nd Half Dozen Half Dozen Total Hits Golds Dozen Total Running Total Arrows would be shot in threes as the Portsmouth is an indoor round. (Outdoor rounds are usually shot in ends of six arrows). The score for the first three arrows is entered on line one - left to right - highest to lowest. The next three arrows are also entered on line one using the same format. The score for the half dozen would then be totalled. The scores for the next half dozen would also be entered on line one, totalled and then added to the previous half dozen to give the score. The same format is followed through lines 2,3,4 etc. The score for each dozen is added to the previous score to form a running total. Points to watch when scoring Never touch the target face or any arrows in it until scoring is completed. To call your score point (but don t touch) at the nock end of each arrow and call its value clearly. Arrows scores should be called in groups of three working from the highest values to the lowest. If an arrow is touching one of the dividing lines on the target it will score the higher value. That s why it s important not to touch the arrows or the target face prior to scoring. In the case of a line cutter being disputed during club shooting, a decision should be given by the target captain. If that is not accepted then the field captain or a coach can be asked to judge. Look for arrows that have missed and gone beyond the target once all the arrows in the target have been scored. 25.

28 Warming Up Warming up helps to ensure the body is ready for archery activity by increasing blood flow to your muscles, preparing your joints for the movements involved in shooting, raising your temperature if the weather is cold and preventing injury. Here are a few suggested warming up exercises. Be careful to avoid stretching during your warm-up, avoid sharp, erratic movements and be sure to follow any medical advice that you may have received. Rotate your hips Aim: To warm up your core and enhance the sensation of balance. How to do it: Hold your hands on your hips and swing your hips in a circular direction, as if you are hula-hooping. Start in one direction for five hulas, and then change direction for another five. Rotate your feet Aim: To warm up your ankle joints and enhance the sensation of balance. How to do it: Standing on one leg, hold your other leg forwards and rotate your foot five times in each direction. Forward step Aim: To warm up your legs, feet and ankle joints and enhance the sensation of balance. How to do it: From a standing position step forwards with your left leg, hold for a second and then return back to standing. Step forwards with your right leg, hold for a second and then return back to standing. Repeat five times for each leg. Ski poles Aim: To warm up your arm and shoulder muscles through a range of motion forwards and back. How to do it: Standing upright imagine you are holding ski poles and bring the poles forward and then push backwards. Repeat for 5-10 times. Bend your legs each time you push to increase the warm up for your legs. 26.

29 Arms out to the side: rotation Aim: To warm up arm and shoulder muscles through a range of motion by rotating your arms. Also to reinforce the upright posture needed for shooting. How to do it: Stand upright and hold your arms out to the side. Rotate your arms slowly in small circles, five times in one direction and five times in the other. Rotate arms forwards and backwards Aim: To warm up your shoulder muscles through a range of motion, rotating arms forwards and backwards. This is important for warming up the small muscles of the shoulder. How to do it: Stand upright and hold your arms forward, back of your hands touching. Slowly rotate your hands outwards, and move your arms backwards. You should feel the shoulder blades squeezing backwards as part of the warm up. Then bring your arms forward back to the starting position. Repeat three times. Side-to-side Aim: To warm up arm and shoulder muscles on the back of your body and imitate some of the movements of shooting a bow. How to do it: Standing upright link your middle three fingers together and apply pressure by pulling your elbows backwards. Focusing on the muscles on the back of your arms and shoulders, squeeze the elbow of your left arm backwards. Then return to centre and squeeze back the right elbow. Repeat for five times. Roundabout Aim: To warm up arm and shoulder muscles on the back of your body and imitate some of the movements of shooting a bow.. How to do it: Follow the guide for Side to side. Instead of moving left to right, move your hands in a circle around your face maintaining pressure across the linked fingertips. Keep these movements slow and controlled at all times. This material has been reproduced from Level One Resource Manual for Coaching Archery with the kind permission of Archery GB. 27.

30 Winter Shooting The Winter poses an extra challenge for the archer in the form of wind, rain, cold, and, if you re a really hard-bitten (frost-bitten?) shooter, snow. Here are a few tips which may help: Wear clothing which will keep out the wind and rain but make sure that it isn t so baggy and loose that it prevents you from shooting with confidence. Several thin layers are better than one thick, bulky layer. Before you shoot make sure that you warm-up properly to avoid injuring cold muscles and so that your first arrows really count. Remember that every archer on the line will be affected by poor weather, not just you. Thinking positively about your performance in poor conditions can really give you an advantage. Don t allow yourself to be beaten by the weather. In rain, before shooting the first arrow of an end ping the string before you nock your first arrow. This will help to remove excess water from the string which would slow your first shot and make the arrow drop lower. In heavy rain you might also compensate by aiming the first arrow of an end slightly higher. Try to stay warm. An electronic or charcoal hand-warmer can be a real comfort. Nobody shoots well with frozen fingers. The only weather conditions which call a halt to all shooting outdoors are thunder storms, fog and mist, and high winds. Using a bow during an electrical storm invites a lightning strike on the lump of metal and carbon you re holding in your hand. Fog or mist can make it impossible to see that the safety overshoot is clear and make it unsafe to shoot. High winds can make it difficult to keep a target boss upright even when it is pegged down firmly. If a target is blown over whilst there are arrows in it those arrows are more than likely going to be written-off. The decision whether or not to shoot in windy conditions is a personal one. Experienced archers using expensive carbon arrows will often give it a miss. 28.

31 Indoor Shooting Shooting indoors during the winter months provides a quite different archery experience. So what s the best way to ensure that you enjoy your indoor season? Here are a few tips: The first thing is to remember to sign-in and pay your range fee! The most commonly shot round indoor is the Portsmouth (60 arrows at 20 yards with metric scoring). But you don t have to shoot a Portsmouth - there are other indoor rounds. In fact, you don t need to shoot a round at all. Shooting just for fun is fine too so don t feel under any pressure. Indoor rounds are usually shot in ends of three arrows. If time is pressing - and it usually is - you can shoot four arrows an end to speed things up. Although the usual guideline about four archers to a target still applies indoors, because of the space restrictions it is usual to shoot in two details with only two archers shooting at each target at the same time. The other two archers join the line as members of the first detail finish shooting. Indoor venues can be quite warm. Wear several thin layers that you can shed easily if you get too warm. Your shot routine will be exactly the same as shooting outdoors. You won t have wind, rain, low-flying eagles and fluctuating temperatures to deal with and this should make it easier for you to manage your sight marks. You may feel more pressure from having people so close behind you and you ll think they re all watching you. Relax. Just concentrate on your technique and on the target, and practice shutting the rest out. It really does get easier the more you do it. If you ve got any problems just speak to a coach or a more experienced archer. They ll be really pleased to help you. 29.

32 Glossary Anchor: The spot on the archer s face on which the hand that draws the bow string is positioned when at full draw. Bracer: A covering for an archer's forearm, used to protect the arm from contact with the string. Archer's paradox: The bending of the arrow around the bow after release. Butt: straw. A target made from compacted Arrow: The projectile shot by an archer from a bow. Made of wood, aluminium, carbon or a combination of the latter two. Arrow shaft: The tube of the arrow not including the point, nock, or fletchings. Back (of the bow): The surface of the bow furthest from the archer when the bow is in the firing position. Backstop netting: Placed behind the targets when shooting indoors to prevent arrows which miss the target from hitting the wall. Barebow: stabilisers. A bow used without a sight or Belly (of the bow): The surface of the bow closest to the archer when the bow is in the shooting position. Boss: The circular target usually made of compressed straw or foam to which a target face is pinned Bow arm: The arm which holds the bow. Bowstring: The string of the bow usually made from synthetic fibres (eg. Dacron) which transfers the energy from the bow to the arrow. Bracing Height: The distance between the bow and the string measured with a bow square. Chest guard: Fitted to the bow arm side of the chest to keep clothing and body out of the way of the string at full draw. Clicker: A simple device fitted to the bow which clicks off the tip of the arrow when a particular draw length is reached. Enables a consistent force to be applied to every shot. Clout: A small flag placed in the ground as a marker for long distance shooting. Clout shooting: A form of archery where the aim is to drop arrows as close to a flag as possible. Cock fletch (now known as Index): The fletch at right angles to the string position in the nock on three feathered arrows. Usually a different colour to the other fletches Compound bow: A modern bow using a system of one or more pulleys and cams to develop mechanical advantage. Composite bow: A recurve bow made from a number of materials laminated together (eg. wood and glass fibre) Creep: Allowing the arrow to edge forward at full draw just before its release. Draw: The act of bending the bow to the archer s draw length by pulling the string backwards while holding the bow steady.. 30.

33 Draw length: The distance the bow is drawn to reach the anchor point. Draw weight: The force required to draw a bow to full arrow length, usually measured in pounds at a certain draw length. End: The collective term used to indicate the number of arrows to be shot at each visit to the shooting line. Usually three arrows indoors and six arrows outdoors. Fast: Derived from Hold Fast and used as a shouted command to indicate that there is a safety issue on the field and that shooting must stop immediately. Feathers: The fletches or vanes on an arrow to aid its stability in flight. Finger sling: A loop of cord usually fitted around the index or second finger and the thumb of the bow hand. It allows the hand to be relaxed for the shot whilst keeping the bow in the hand. Flatbow: A modern bow with flat section limbs made from fibreglass and wood laminations. Fletchings: The vanes or feathers on the end of an arrow which stabilise it in flight. Group: Used for a number of arrows close together on a target. Kisser button: Usually plastic and fitted to the bowstring above the nocking point. Provides an extra reference point. The bow is drawn until the kisser touches between the lips. Limb: The part of the bow which flexes when the bow is drawn. Longbow: A bow, usually the height of the archer, traditionally made of yew but now usually of laminated woods. Longrod: The long front stabiliser fitted to a recurve or compound bow. Loose: To release the string of a bow to propel an arrow towards its target. Nock: Either: the end of an arrow with a notch in it for the string; the grooves in the tips of the limbs of a bow to fit the bowstring; or the act of fitting an arrow to the string. Nocking point: The place on the bowstring where the arrow is placed for shooting. Novice: the sport An archer in his/her first year in Pile: The point of an arrow. Pressure button (or Button): Sprung loaded plunger screwed into the riser which holds the arrow correctly in the bow. Puller: A rubber grip or sheet which gives a better hold when pulling arrows from a target. Quiver: A bag or case to carry arrows. Recurve bow: A bow where the limb tips curve away from the archer when it is held in the shooting position. Rest: A small device of plastic or wire on which the arrow is supported in the bow. Riser: The central element of a recurve bow to which the limbs are fitted. Sometimes called the handle. Round: A combination of arrow quantity and distances shot in competition. Either Imperial (yards) or Metric (metres). 31.

34 Self bow: wood. A bow made from one piece of Serving: A thread which is wound around the bowstring, usually at the ends and in the centre, to protect the string from wear. Shaft: The body of an arrow. Shooting Line: The line that the archer shoots from. Archers stand with one foot on either side of the line. Sight: Device fitted to the bow to enable the archer to aim the bow at the target and adjust the point of aim. Sight block: The part of the sight that is directly screwed to the bow and stays in place when the sight is removed. Sight pin: The threaded bar and aperture that the archer looks through to aim the bow. Spine: A measurement of the amount of stiffness of an arrow shaft. Set out in spine tables by arrow manufacturers linked to arrow length and bow poundage. Sling (Wrist/Bow): An alternative to a finger sling. Fitted to the bow hand, it allows the hand to be relaxed on the shot whilst keeping the bow in the hand. Stabilisers: A term for the rods and weights fitted to the bow for balance and to steady the bow during the shot. Stance: How an archer stands on the shooting line; in particular the placement of the feet and the posture of the body. Stringer: Cord or webbing strap used to string a bow. Avoids damage to the bow limbs. Tab: A piece of material, often leather, used to protect an archer s draw hand fingers. Target Face: Usually paper, on which a ringed-target is printed. Faces are produced in different sizes and designs for various rounds. Target Pins: Plastic pins used to pin a target face to the boss. Tie-down: Guy rope used to anchor a target boss and stand firmly in position outdoors. Tiller: Distance from the string to the point where the limbs meet the riser. A bow with zero tiller would have both measurements the same. A bow with the top measurement larger than the bottom measurement has positive tiller. Twins: The matched pair of short stabilising rods fitted between the long rod and the riser on a V-bar. They help prevent torque when the bow is shot. V-bar: A device which holds the twin stabilisers in place. Waiting Line: The line behind which archers stand while they are waiting to go to the shooting line, and to which they return once they have shot their arrows. Stand: The wooden frame that supports the target boss. String: Either a bowstring or the act of fitting a bow with a string. 32.

35 More Information There is a wealth of archery resources available which can help you improve your knowledge and understanding of the sport. Here are just a few suggestions to get you started. Club Website Reference Guide for Recurve Archers Compiled and written by Murray Elliot. An excellent free guide to all aspects of recurve archery covering topics such as basic set-up, bow tuning, string making, form, technique etc. Arrow Tuning & Maintenance Guide Produced by Easton, the arrow manufacturers. A very good guide for learning the basics of tuning your arrows to your bow especially if you use Easton arrows. Both available from: On the Web Watch the planet s best target archers in action on Archery TV, the YouTube channel devoted to World Archery. Books Join other UK archers on AIUK s discussion forum. Everything about the UK archery scene you want (or don t want) to know. Ask daft questions and get - frequently very enlightening -answers. If it is happening in UK archery it s on here. A quick search of a well-known online bookseller s website will reveal a myriad of books on all aspects of archery. Just be a little wary of books written for the American market. One of the best for UK archers is: Archery: The Art of Repetition by British Olympian Simon Needham. This is a great handbook which will see you from novice level through to Grand Master Bowman. The Crowood Press ISBN:

36 First Year

37 What Next? You've completed your beginner's course, know the basics of shooting, safety and etiquette and joined the club. Where do you go from here? For your first year you will be classed as a novice archer and obviously there is still much for you to learn. As with all sports or skills, improvement in archery is achieved through practice and analysis. But practice alone may not bring the improvement you seek. It needs to be structured and to have benchmarks against which you can measure your performance. In addition to this it also requires other more experienced archers to be available to help you over the frustration and difficulty you might experience when encountering a problem you cannot readily solve on your own. Your aim now is to improve your shooting skill and technique and you can achieve this by practising as much as possible. Set yourself goals, monitor and measure your performance, analyse your shooting. But remember it is just as easy to practice bad technique as it is to practice good so don't feel shy about asking a coach or a more experienced archer to watch you and comment on your technique and style. In short the things you need to do are: Keep your equipment in good order, find out how it works and how to maintain it. Practice regularly. You can do this both physically and mentally - it is just as important to develop a positive mental attitude towards your shooting. As an individual or in conjunction with a coach or mentor set some goals to be achieved. Try to achieve continual improvement - monitor your performance, keep your scores for various rounds and try to improve your personal bests. Gain experience wherever you can. Enter competitions - your coach or fellow club members can advise you when you re ready and indicate suitable events. You may already have tried a club fun shoot so you ll have a good idea whether you are ready and what's expected. The best advice of all? RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR SHOOTING. 35.

38 Things To Try A really good place to start your career as a novice archer is to try for a 252 Award. These are available at 20 yards, 30 yards, 40 yards, 50 yards, 60 yards and then 80 yards and 100 yards. Once you feel confident shooting at 20 yards, simply shoot 36 arrows at that distance using a standard 122cm target face and record your score on a score sheet. Use imperial scoring (ie 9, 7, 5, 3, 1). If you score 252 poins or more you will win a badge for your quiver and get a mention in the Club newsletter. Get another archer to sign your score sheet. Mark it clearly 252 at 20 yards and either hand it to the handicap officer or drop it in the box for completed score sheets in the clubhouse. NB: Badges cannot be awarded for retrospective distances. For example, if you start off by gaining an award at 30 yards you won t be able to go back and try for an award at 20 yards. Other Things To Try Other activities which you might like to try in your first two years in the sport include: trying your hand at clout shooting; shooting and scoring rounds; for under 12s, the Dragon Awards Scheme; trying to beat your personal bests for particular rounds; participating in the various club fun shoots; competing in the club s Summer and Winter Handicap Leagues; trying for a AGB classification in target and clout shooting; entering an open shoot; helping out at have-a-go events and beginners courses. If you re not sure where to get started with any of these please just ask a coach or a more experienced archer. You can be sure you ll get all the help you need. 36.

39 Ten Steps

40 1. Stand To shoot consistently well you should take care with each step in your shot routine. Only move to the next step in the sequence when you have set everything correctly. Place your feet astride the shooting line Put the tips of your toes against an imaginary straight line running towards the centre of the target. Your feet should be about your shoulders-width apart. Imagine a straight line running from the ground through each of your feet, through your hips to your shoulders. Your weight distribution in this position should be slightly more on the balls of your feet. Try to relax. Imaginary line to target centre SHOOTING LINE Feet apart to match the width of your shoulders. Straight line from ground, through your feet and hips to your shoulders. 38.

41 2. Make a Hook Place your fingers on the string with your 1st (index) finger above the nock and your 2nd and 3rd fingers under the nock. Make sure you leave a gap between the bottom of the nock and the top of the finger below it. The string should be lined up close to the first joint of your fingers. Your fingers should form a deep hook with most of the pressure of the string on the 1st and 3rd fingers. The 2nd finger bears less weight. Be sure to maintain a good hook with the back of your hand straight. Most string pressure taken on 1st and 3rd fingers Finger position Deep hook with back of hand straight. 39.

42 3. Set Bow Hand The pressure of the bow should be distributed along the pressure line. The line should be to the left of the line at the base of the thumb, with the main contact with the bow grip at the thumb side of the lifeline. Relax your fingers. The back of your hand should make an angle of 45 degrees. The tips of thumb and index finger may touch each other in a relaxed way. If you are using a finger sling, the bow should be free and able to move forward slightly on release rather than the sling holding the bow tight to your hand. Pressure Line 45 degrees 40.

43 4. Raise Bring your bow arm to shoulder height, keeping your shoulders in a natural and level position. The elbow of your bow arm is rotated away from the string. Try to maintain a straight line from the pressure point of the bow hand on the handle/riser. This should be through the bow arm wrist, the bow arm, and through the shoulders to the elbow of your draw arm. This position is bio-mechanically strong as it means the weight of the bow is being carried by your bones rather than your muscles. Shoulder height CORRECT Arm rotated away from string INCORRECT Arm not rotated and in path of the string ONE STRAIGHT LINE from arrow point through to the point of the elbow 41.

44 5. Draw Stand upright and relaxed with your pelvis tucked under (ie. pushed slightly forward). This flattens the chest and creates a strong and stable posture. Look straight ahead down the shooting line. Relax. Turn your head towards the target and focus on the gold. For the rest of the shot your head stays in this level position. There should be no tilting of the head to the back or the side when drawing to your anchor point. The shoulders, particularly the front (bow) shoulder, should be down and in a relaxed position. Raising or rolling the bow shoulder should be avoided. Draw the string along your bow arm in a straight horizontal line to your anchor point. Use your back muscles, squeezing your shoulder blades towards each other. Drawing the Bow 1: Draw the string along the bow arm. Drawing the Bow 2: At full draw there should be a straight line from the arrow tip through to the point of the elbow. 42.

45 6. Anchor Keep your head level with no tilting to the back or to the side. The top edge of the draw hand rests underneath the jaw bone. The string should touch the tip of the nose and slightly offcentre on the chin. Keep your mouth closed, teeth together and your face relaxed. You should be aiming to achieve the same position in every shot you make. Middle of the nose and slightly off-centre on the chin NB: This diagram shows the archer aiming with one eye closed though it is perfectly acceptable to aim with both eyes open. The choice is largely down to personal preference and you should use whichever method suits you best. If using only one eye note that a right-handed archer should aim with the right eye and a left-handed archer with the left eye. 43.

46 7. Hold Keep your back muscles in tension. When you are at full draw it should be possible to relax the muscles of the arms and shoulders to some extent as all the weight of the fully-drawn bow should be being carried by the bones of your arms and shoulder girdle (see Step 4). Bow hand, draw hand and elbow should form a straight line. Keep both shoulders as low as possible. Shoulder muscles ONE STRAIGHT LINE from arrow point through to the point of the elbow 44.

47 8. Aim Focus on what you want to hit - the gold! Maintain a steady posture with your head level and still keeping your focus on the target. The sight comes between you and your point of focus. Don t focus on the sight pin - look through it to focus on the gold. Release is made when the outer ring of the sight is full of gold. Sight on target 45.

48 9. Release Keep the draw push-pull tension going by continuing to use your back muscles. The release is achieved by using the back muscles to rotate the draw arm shoulder joint backwards. This combined with relaxing the draw hand fingers will release the string. Relax the fingers of your draw hand. As your fingers straighten the string will release. A relaxed draw hand will automatically move backwards on release following the line of the jaw and ending up just behind the ear. On release the bow should move forward out of your bow hand and drop forward until checked by the bow or finger sling. Relax draw hand fingers Rotate jont backwards To release rotate the draw shoulder joint backwards and relax the fingers of the draw hand. 46.

49 10. Follow-through After release your draw hand should be relaxed and near or behind your ear. The bow has moved forward out of your bow hand to be caught by the finger sling or bow sling. Follow-through on your shot by holding your posture and keeping your bow arm pushing towards gold until the arrow hits the target. Follow-through by holding your posture and by keeping your bow arm up until the arrow hits the target. 47.

50 The Beginner s Guide. Written by Bill Spencer and Steve Trimmins. Design & layout by Bus Stop Design. Originally published Revised August St. George s Archery Club, Harrogate.