Starwind Picture Page 1

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1 Starwind Picture ` Page 1

2 Starwind Picture Page 2

3 Copyright RIGGING MANUAL for THE STARWIND NINETEEN AND SPINDRIFT 19 by Sue B. Hull Columbus, Ohio Page 3

4 Copyright copyright, 1986 by Sue B. Hull all rights reserved Starwind 19 was manufactured by Starwind a member of the Wellcraft Marine Corporation, 8151 Bradenton Road, Sarasota, Florida Starwind 190 and Spindrift 19 were manufactured by Rebel Industries, Inc., a Michigan Corporation, 1220 Tallevast Road, Sarasota, FL Harken is a registered trademark of Vanguard, Inc. Cam-Matic is a registered trademark of Vanguard, Inc. Page 4

5 Table of Contents ACKNOWLEDGMENTS... Page 7 CONTENT... Page 7 INTRODUCTION... Page 8 SAFETY... Page 8 Required Equipment... Page 8 Optional Equipment... Page 9 Tool List... Page 9 Spare Parts... Page 10 SPECIFICATIONS... Page 10 MAST ASSEMBLY... Page 11 STANDING RIGGING... Page 12 BOOM ASSEMBLY... Page 13 RUDDER ASSEMBLY... Page 14 RUNNING RIGGING... Page 15 Main Sheet... Page 16 Jib Sheet... Page 16 STEPPING THE MAST... Page 18 Mast Crutch... Page 20 BOOM... Page 21 SAILS... Page 21 Working Jib... Page 21 Main Sail... Page 22 Optional Sails... Page 22 Cruising Spinnaker... Page 23 Genoa... Page 23 Roller Furling Jib System... Page 23 Spinnaker... Page 23 Storm Jib... Page 24 Heavy Weather Jib... Page 24 DROPPING THE MAST... Page 24 SECTION III Care: Rub and Scrub and Polish... Page 25 Care of the Fiberglass... Page 25 Care of the Hardware... Page 25 Care of the Outboard Motor... Page 25 the Running Rigging Care of... Page 25 Care of the Sails... Page 26 Care of the Standing Rigging... Page 26 Care of the Teak... Page 27 Care of the Trailer... Page 27 Care of the Windows... Page 28 Page 5

6 Table of Contents SECTION IV Launching: Getting Her Wet... LAUNCHING THE BOAT... LOADING THE BOAT... SECTION V Of Nineteen s & 190's... NATIONAL CLASS ASSOCIATION... SPINDRIFT... CONCLUSION... SECTION VI Equipment: Nuts & Bolts, Dreams & Schemes... PARTS LIST... MAST... SHROUDS... BOOM... RUDDER... ROPE - Samson Yacht Braid... SAILS... DECK... CABIN... TEAK... OPTIONS... SECTION VII APPENDIX... OWNERSHIP LOG... MAINTENANCE & EQUIPMENT RECORD... NOTES... Page 29 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 31 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 33 Page 33 Page 34 Page 34 Page 35 Page 35 Page 36 Page 36 Page 38 Page 39 Page 39 Page 42 Page 45 Page 48 Page 52 Page 6

7 Acknowledgments ACKNOWLEDGMENTS First, I wish to thank Jim Taylor, for without his design there never would have been a Nineteen. Thanks also goes to all my friends who were kind enough to let me impose on their busy lives to contribute, read, and comment on this manual. Especially appreciated was the help of Daryl Morrison, Becky Morrison, Nikki Bagby, Dick Cook, Don Di Vito, Roy Sutherland, Marc Willi, and all the others, I would never have gotten the manual this far along. I also wish to thank the staff of the Audio-Visual Department of the Upper Arlington Public Library for the help received and use of the computers of Computertown, which made the physical writing of the manual much easier than if I were to type each page on a typewriter. CONTENT The manual is based on the information available from owners and Wellcraft Marine Corporation. The detailed parts list was taken from Starwind 19, Hull Number The manual is designed as only a beginning point and as equipment is added to the boat, such additions can be listed under MAINTENANCE & EQUIPMENT. There may be variances between model years of the Wellcraft Starwind 19 boats, as well as the noted variances between the Wellcraft Marine Corporation, Starwind 19 and the Rebel Industries, Inc., Starwind 190 and Spindrift 19 boats. Other variances in the Rebel Industries, Inc., Starwind 190 and Spindrift 19 will be due to improvements in the design and manufacture of the boats. Major parts are identified but small screws, nuts, bolts, washers, pop rivets, are readily available and not included in the parts list. The parts used on the Nineteen are all brand name stock equipment and therefore readily available at most marine stores. The deck is joined to the hull by the use of stainless steel screws, staples, and bonding glue (5200, most likely). The hardware in the centerboard assembly has not included due to the fact, as far as is known, there has been no need to disassemble the centerboard. The early Wellcraft Nineteen's (1982 and possibly 1983) centerboards use a shackle to attach the rope at the centerboard, where later models (1984) use a knot through the core of the centerboard. Because of the three names, the manual will use Nineteen to refer to each boat. A very careful attempt has been made to make this manual as complete as possible. Should your Nineteen have different parts or length of shrouds, it would be appreciated if you will send a note, listing those changes. Page 7 HAPPY SAILING Sue B. Hull

8 SECTION I INTRODUCTION Assembly: Getting It Together Welcome to the growing number of Starwind Nineteen and Spindrift Nineteen owners. The Nineteen was designed in late 1981, by Jim Taylor, and produced by Wellcraft Marine Corporation until January, At which time the molds were sold to Rebel Industries, Inc., and a new deck was designed by Cortland Steck. These instructions are designed to be general, yet allow for the advances made in the Nineteen. Where equipment differences are known, they are noted. Each Nineteen is an individual expressing the owner's view and taste. If you have specific questions about your particular Nineteen, contact the dealer in your area or the person from whom you bought the Nineteen. SAFETY Safety should always be part of your boating. All safety begins with education. If you are a first time sailor or "Old Salt", the Nineteen will always have something to teach. Sometimes in a quiet way, sometimes in a loud way. There are many good sailing classes on all levels. Courses are offered from the American Red Cross, United States Power Squadron, US Coast Guard Auxiliary, State Watercraft Departments, local sailing schools, yacht clubs, continuing education courses at local schools, and sailboat dealers. In addition to classes, there are some very good books on the market. Most books are reviewed in the sailing magazines. The magazines are also very good sources of education and new ideas. Do not overlook the book clubs offered in the magazines, and of course the local library. Required Equipment Assembly Your Nineteen should carry the following required equipment for the safety of those on board and your peace of mind. (Check your local state watercraft office for their detailed publication of required equipment and regulations.) PFD - USCG approved life jackets for all persons on board - Children under 10 years old should wear life jackets at all times. ANCHOR - For bottom conditions and sufficient line (5 to 7 times water depth). Should you singlehand or need quick setting of the anchor, consider adding 6 to 10 feet of chain. DISTRESS FLAG and/or FLARES - The orange and black flag for day use and flares for the Great Lakes and ocean. Page 8

9 Assembly AIR HORN and/or WHISTLE - The air horn for attracting the attention of power boaters and a whistle can be very useful attached to life jackets. THROWABLE PFD - The small horseshoe PFD can make the Nineteen look BIG though the throwable cushions can have many other uses. FIRE EXTINGUISHER - If using an outboard motor. REGISTRATION PAPERS - A copy may be acceptable to local watercraft officers, and is easier to replace should it be lost overboard. Optional Equipment The following is not necessary required equipment but you might want to include them at some point in time. Tool List OARS or PADDLE - The screw together type works well. Two sets can be used to reach below the Nineteen's freeboard and break down for easy storage. BILGE PUMP and/or BUCKET - The bucket can be used for cleaning and water fights! COMPASS and GAGES - They can be mounted in a replacement or extra hatch board on the centerline of the boat for easy viewing then stored below deck when not in use, or permanently in the bulkhead, to the side of the hatchway. TOOL KIT and SPARE PARTS LIST - See lists below. FLASHLIGHT - To shine on the sails should the battery fail, for hunting marker bouys on channels at night, or on the walk to the car. FIRST AID KIT - There are very good kits on the market, or you might enjoy putting your own together. CHARTS - NOAA or local fishing charts for noting observations and changes in water depth. VHF RADIO - On the ICW, Ocean or Great Lakes, accesses information easily about ports, channels, and marina. EXTRA LINE - To tie down the boom tent, the extra spring line, or the windsurfer who needs a lift to shore. The tool list will be needed to assemble the rigging. You may later want to carry some of these on board, should you need to do any work on the boat. If you plan to do any cruising you may want to add to the list. Rigging Knife w/ Marlin Spike Screw Drivers Slotted Phillips Pliers Regular Needle Nosed Tape Rigging, Duct, and/or Electrical Page 9

10 Assembly Spare Parts Wrenches Box End Crescent Socket Set Metric Tools - if your outboard requires special tools This list will be parts you might need on the water at some point. If you plan a cruise you may increase the list to more than what one drawer could hold. Clevis Pins Cotter Pins Cotter Rings or Split Rings Shackles SS Safety Wire Extra Flashlight Batteries Extra Flashlight Bulbs Extra Fuses 3 amp 5 amp 20 amp Extra Light Bulbs Cabin GE 913 VA Steaming GE 1416 Stern GE 90 Patching Compound Marine Tex type Caulk Silicone Sealer type 3M 5200 type - permanent - use with care. SPECIFICATIONS The measurements for the Starwind 19 are: length overall (LOA) 18' 7", waterline length (LWL) 15' 7", beam 7" 6", draft keel up 1' 6", keel down 4' 6", displacement 1350 lbs. (though the boat may weight more like 1450 lbs.), ballast 395 lbs., total sail area 153 sq.ft. with the main 93 sq. ft. and the 110% jib 60 sq. ft. The mast above waterline is approximately 30' 0". The sail measurements are as follows; I 20' 0", P 21' 0", J 6' 0", and E 8' 10". The measurements for the Spindrift 190 are: length overall (LOA) 18' 9", waterline length (LWL) 15' 7", beam 7" 6", draft Page 10

11 Assembly keel up 1' 6", keel down 4' 6", displacement 1350 lbs., ballast 395 lbs., total sail area sq. ft. (110% jib). Take these measurements as guide lines, and MEASURE YOUR BOAT for the exact measurement as there are known differences in various boats. MAST ASSEMBLY Open mast assembly package, inspecting for: MAST - Johnson Spar - 2" dia - 1/4" track Mast Head Casting Fish Line - 1/8" X 26 feet Clevis Pins 1/4" X 1 1/4" 1/4" X 1" Cotter Rings or Split Rings - 2 White Tape - 5" below Mast Head Casting Tang Upper and Lower Shrouds Dwyer Forestay Race-lite Block Harken 82 Shackle Harken 72 Clevis Pin 3/16" X 5/8" (17/32) Cotter Ring or Split Ring Spreader - 2 1/2" X 2 1/4" X 28" Stainless Steel Plate - 2 Schaffer Screws - 4 Lock Nut - 4 Machine Bolt - 4 Spreader Base Schaffer Mast Light - w/ Teak Gem, Orange, FL Hazard Warning Label - possibly invisible to read on the black mast. Gooseneck Dwyer Eye Strap Page 11

12 Assembly Harken 73 Cleat - 3-4" Nicro Fico NF Merriman R 3922 Mast Step Pin 1/4" X 3 7/8" Cotter Pins 1" grip Place mast on saw horses or supports to work. Attach each spreader to the spreader base on the mast using the bolts and lock nuts. The spreaders will sweep to the back (toward the luff slot/sail track) of the mast. If you wish to add a flag halyard to the starboard spreader, it is easier to drill the holes and add the eye strap and block before attaching the spreader to the spreader base on the mast. The best location for the halyard is about midpoint (14") of the spreader allowing for a 12" X 18" flag. A shroud cleat may be added for the halyard or an additional small cleat on the mast STANDING RIGGING Now inspect the standing rigging which contains: Stainless Steel Cables (Shrouds) 1/8" 1 X 19 Forestay w/turnbuckle 20'7" w/ Loos Swag Fork End Terminal MS Backstay w/turnbuckle 27'6" w/ Loos Swag Eye End Terminal MS Upper Shrouds w/turnbuckle 21' w/ Loos Swag Fork End Terminal MS Lower Shrouds w/turnbuckle 10'8" w/ Loos Swag Fork End Terminal MS Turnbuckles Johnson Open Body 1/4"-28 Threads Cotter Pins - 1/16" X 1/2" Clevis Pins Upper 3/16" X 3/8" (13/32) Page 12

13 Assembly Lower (at turnbuckles) 1/4" X 1/2"(17/32) Cotter Rings or Split Rings Starting with the standing rigging, uncoil and lay out the shrouds. All shrouds are labeled. Attach the jaws or fork of the forestay to the forestay tang on the front to the mast, above the steaming light, using the clevis pin and cotter ring. Place the cotter ring next to mast to prevent snagging sails or fingers and hands. Attach the Harken Bullet Block 82 with shackle to the tang below the forestay on the front of the mast. The loop above the forestay will take another Harken Bullet Block for a spinnaker halyard, if one is added later. Attach the jaws or fork ends of the upper shrouds to the upper shroud tangs, above and to the side of the forestay shroud using the clevis pins and cotter rings. Again, placing the cotter ring next to the mast to prevent snagging of sails or fingers and hands. Attach the upper shrouds to the outer ends of the spreaders by loosing the screws and removing the small plate and placing the shroud under the plate. DO NOT tighten the plate in place until the spreader and mast form a 90% angle. The shroud forms the third side of the triangle. Attach the jaws or fork end of the lower shrouds to the lower shroud tangs at the side of the mast, just below the spreader base, using the clevis pins and cotter rings. Again, placing the cotter ring next to the mast to prevent snagging of sails or fingers and hands. Before attaching the backstay, take special caution not to lose the fish line running inside the mast. The fish line is attached to the second clevis pin in the mast head casting and cleated off below the main halyard exit at the lower starboard side of the mast. Remove the line from the cleat and tie the line securely through the open base of the cleat. This will give enough slack to bring the excess free of the clevis pin in the mast head casting and tie it off around the mast. Attach the eye end of the backstay shroud to the mast head casting, using the outer clevis pin and cotter ring. BOOM ASSEMBLY BOOM Outhaul Casting Block Harken 82 Shackle Harken 72 Page 13

14 Assembly Clevis Pin 3/16 X 5/8 (17/32) Cotter Ring or Split Ring Chain Plate Eye Strap Harken 73 Cleat - 4" Nicro Fico NF Merriman R 3922 Gooseneck Casting Clevis Pin - 2 1/4" X 1" Cotter Ring or Split Ring Attach the Harken Bullet Block 82 to the outhaul casting. Use the inter hole to pass the shackle pin through. Attach the outhaul line to the eye strap on the port side with a bowline knot. Run the line forward and cleat it off. RUDDER ASSEMBLY Tiller Handle H & L Marine Woodwork 2965 East Harcourt Compton, CA Clam Cleat Nicro Fico NF Jam Cleat RWO R 367 Rudder Blade Eye Strap - 2 Harken 73 Screws Sleeve SS Machine Bolt 5/8" X 11 X 3 1/2" SS Lock Nut with Handle 5/8" X 11 Remove the sleeve from the rudder bolt and nut. Insert the sleeve in the hole of the rudder blade. With the rudder blade in hand, slide the rudder cheek housing over the rudder blade, lining up the bolt hole. Insert the bolt so the nut will be on the port side and attach the nut with the handle. (If the outboard motor mount is on the starboard side, you may want this lever on the starboard side.) Page 14

15 Assembly To prevent lost of this nut, a small hole can be drilled in the handle and a bowline knot used to attach a length of light line to the nut handle. Attach the other end of the light line, with another bowline knot, up through one of the large holes in the rudder cheek housing. A second option is to safety wire the nut on the bolt by wrapping the stainless steel safety wire in a thread and twisting the end smooth, back against the threads so the nut can not back of. Turn the handle outboard to prevent dings in the fiberglass of the transom. On the rudder blade, locate the two eye straps at each edge of the rudder blade. Attach one of the two rudder up and down hauls, using a bowline knot to each eye strap. The down haul line, at the leading edge of the rudder blade will be lead up through the small holes between the gudgeon holes and the rudder cheek housing, to the tubular jam cleat, RWO R 367, on the rudder cheek housing under the tiller. This line will lock the rudder in the down position when sailing. The trailing edge line will lead up through the clam cleat, Nicro Fico NF 10549, at the back of the rudder cheek housing and hold the rudder in the up position. Tie a figure eight or a stopper knot in the ends of both lines. At the point of replacing these line, consider using a red tracer line for the up haul and a green tracer line for the down haul to identify them, rather than the same color tracer line for both. You may also choose to tie a heavier line around the rudder and up to the stern eye bolt, when trailering on the highway to insure the rudder does not slip down and become damaged. Attach the tiller handle to the rudder cheek housing using the 1/2" X 13 X 3" bolt, washers and nut. Seat the rudder on the boat by lining up the pintles and gudgeons. Washers cut from a plastic milk bottle, make a very good bearing surface here. Insert one of the cotter rings or split rings in each of the holes in the pintles. RUNNING RIGGING ROPE - Samson Yacht Braid Main Halyard with eye 3/8" X 50' Ronstan Shackle RF 610 Jib Halyard with eye 3/8" X 42' Ronstan Shackle RF 610 Topping Lift 3/16" X 25' Cunningham 5/16" X 6' Outhaul 3/16" X 10' Rudder Up and Down Hauls (each) 3/16" X 5' Centerboard 5/16" X 10' Installed at Factory Jib Sheet 3/8" X 36' Main Sheet 3/8" X 42' Page 15

16 Assembly From the running rigging, uncoil the jib halyard and reeve or pass the jib halyard through the Harken Bullet Block 82 on the mast. The shackle should be on the outside of the block and the bitter end or cut end of the halyard next to the mast. Bring both ends to the cleat at the lower end of the mast. The jib halyard is always cleated off on the port side cleat. Uncoil the main halyard at the mast head. With the fish line, bitter end (without the shackle) of the main halyard and the rigging tape or duct tape, wrap, first the fish line to the main halyard, laid side by side, so a smooth surface can be pulled through the sheave (about 8" to 10" taped together seems to work). With help from a friend, guide the line in at the mast head casting, gently but firmly, pulling the halyard through to the halyard exit. Bring both ends to the cleat on the starboard side and cleat them off. With the cunningham line, tie a bowline knot in the eye strap on the starboard side of the mast. This line will later be passed up through a cringe in the main sail and back down to the upper cleat on the port side of the mast. With the topping lift line, tie a bowline knot around the inter clevis pin of the mast head casting and bring the bitter end to the lower end of the mast, to be cleated off on the cunningham cleat. If flag halyards have been added, reeve the line through the block and cleat off at the lower end of the mast. Since the mast now has all rigging attached, use the cunningham line to secure loose shrouds to the lower end of the mast with a half hitch. This way the mast will not be quite as unruly as with loose ends hanging when lifted on to the Nineteen. Main Sheet Attach the Harken 2.25" Double Racing Block 003 to the flange at the back of the outhaul casting on the boom. From the Running Rigging, uncoil the main sheet. Attach the line to the becket, the white knob, of the Harken Fiddle Block 042, with the Cam-Matic, using a bowline knot. Reeve the line up through the front of the 2.25" Double Racing Block, down through the back of the top block of the Fiddle Block. Up again to the front of the 2.25" Double Racing Block and back down again through the back of the large block of the Fiddle Block and out through the Cam-Matic. Tie a figure eight knot or a stopper knot in the bitter end of the main sheet. The angle of the Cam-Matic can be adjusted. The most comfortable point will be about the middle slot. Secure the finished main sheet to the boom at the outhaul cleat. Jib Sheet Page 16

17 Assembly From the running rigging, uncoil the jib sheet. Find the center of the jib sheet and bend, or pass, the fold through the clew grommet of the jib sail and draw the loose ends through the folded loop, pulling tight to secure. Another method of attaching the jib sheet is to cut the sheet in half, whip the cut ends with whipping twine, and attach each sheet to the jib with a bowline knot. Always keep in mind, when the sail is luffing it can be dangerous. It could hit someone in the head. Page 17

18 Rigging SECTION II STEPPING THE MAST Set up Rigging: Getting Ready To Go. With the help of a friend, lift the assembled mast on the Nineteen. The lower end of the mast will lay up at the bow and protrude to about the trailer coupler. The mast head, with the white tape, will lay at about the transom. The luft slot/sail track will lay down when in this position. This will also be the trailering position. Unscrew all shroud turnbuckles so they fully extended. Attach the lower shrouds to the inner-forward holes of the chain plates, which are located between the two windows on each side, using the clevis pins and cotter rings. Attach the upper shrouds to the outer-back holes of the chain plates using the clevis pins and cotter rings. Place the clevis pins with the cotter rings inboard, so lines and sheets do not snag on the rings. Attach the backstay to the hole at either side of the base of the traveler. If you use the side by the outboard motor mount, it may be in the way when starting the motor. Consider which side would be best for you. The balance point of the mast is about the mast steaming light. Carrying the mast at the balance point is the easiest way for one person to move the mast. For two people, one at each end works well. Mast Crutch A simple mast crutch design, will give enough height to let the mast set in the tabernacle easily and gives a good point to lift from. About 4 feet 2" X 2", bolted together, scissored to open and tied to the mainsheet traveler of the stern rail will work well. A second design can be a 2" X 2" about 57" long with gudgeons for the pintles and a 3" bow roller for a split bunk type bracket would let you roll the mast back in position will also work well. ALWAYS CHECK FOR OVERHEAD WIRING AND WIND DIRECTION Re work this area The first time a mast is stepped or raised is always the hardest. Move the mast back on the Nineteen so the base of the mast is at the bow. Close the sliding cabin hatch so you have deck space to work. Lay the upper shrouds and lower shrouds and turnbuckles to the starboard of the stern. Turn the jib cleats, on the cabin deck at the cockpit outboard, so the black fairlead is turned to the sliding cabin hatch. Lay the upper and lower shrouds between the fairlead and the cabin hatch, so the shrouds will not catch or hang up on anything as you raise the mast. Lay the backstay out over the stern, being careful to stay clear of the rudder and outboard motor, the shroud may catch on, as the mast is stepped. Leaving the backstay Page 18

19 Rigging in the cockpit, may cause it to catch on the tiller when the mast is raised. Turning the rudder to port, if the outboard motor mount is on the port side and laying the backstay to starboard will solve the problem. Reversing this, if the outboard motor mount is to starboard, and laying the backstay to port. Lay the forestay forward, being sure it is in front or on top of the spreaders, will let it hang in place, easily to reach once the mast is stepped. Now walk the lower end of the mast back to the area of the tabernacle, which is the two stainless steel wedges between the sliding cabin hatch and the Lextan forward hatch. This will place the mast steaming light at about the stern. Slide the mast step pin into the slots of the tabernacle. A slight downward pressure, as the mast is pushed into the tabernacle, will make the mast slide in easier. The mast must be parallel with the centerline of the boat, bow to stern, or the mast will bind and not set down completely in the tabernacle slots. Also, if the mast is not lined up with the centerline of the boat, it will bind and be unable to remove from the tabernacle when the mast is dropped. If you have trouble getting the mast out of the tabernacle at any time, the alignment of the mast to centerline should be checked. With the mast in the tabernacle, stand along side the mast on the sliding cabin hatch. If you are right handed you may want to stand on the port side. Place your right foot at or just behind the ridge on the hatch closest to cockpit. Place your left foot about two to two and a half feet forward of your right foot. Bend your knees, as you grip the mast, lifting the mast with your legs, not your back. In the first motion, lift the mast, with a slight turn bring your shoulder to under the mast, resting the mast to your right shoulder. In the second motion, you push the mast up and into position. If you are left handed you may want to stand on the starboard side of the mast your left foot will be to the stern and your right foot will be forward using your left shoulder. With each stepping of the mast your movements will become one motion once your body becomes accustom to the movements. With the mast upright, walk the forestay to the bow plate. Attach the forestay in the outer most hole of the bow plate with the clevis pin and cotter ring or split ring. Crewed When stepping the mast with two people, the second person stands in the cockpit raising the mast overhead, as you lift. Then with the mast upright the second person moves over the Lextan forward hatch or in front of the hatch on the foredeck, holding the forestay and helping to steady the mast and with the clevis pin attach the forestay in the outermost hole of the bow plate. Single Hand Page 19

20 Rigging When you are stepping the mast alone, there is a very simple system using the main sheet and jib halyard. Lay the mast out as you would working with two people. When all the shrouds are in place on the deck, attach the Harken Fiddle Block of the main sheet to the bow plate. This is where snap shackles such as a Merriman on the main sheet system comes in handy. And cleat the jib halyard off so the jib halyard shackle is about the hazard warning label. Attach the Harken Racing Block to the jib halyard. Bring the bitter end of the main sheet back to where you can pick it up or hold it as you step the mast. When the mast is laid out in place, raise the mast as with two people. When leaning against the upright mast, pull in on the main sheet and the lines will give you a temporary forestay. Walk the forestay forward and if you need more slack after opening the forestay turnbuckle to get the clevis pin in, just pull up on the main sheet. This way you let the purchase of the main sheet do much of the work. The forestay turnbuckle will be tightened and loosened each time the mast is stepped, and will be the only adjustment needed once the rig is tuned. If this is the first stepping of the mast, you now must tune the rig. Please read the section on TUNING THE RIG. If this rigging of the Nineteen is being done in a driveway or lot you will need to drop the mast. If you are at a launch ramp, you will be putting the sails on the Nineteen and launching. It is best to get the feel for stepping the mast at least once before launching the Nineteen. At the start of each season you may also choose to step the mast in the driveway or lot to refresh your memory before going to the lake. As was said earlier, the first time the mast is stepped will be the hardest. TUNING THE RIG There are many good books and articles on how to tune a sailboat. The object of tuning the rig is: if the Nineteen is balanced, when you let go of the tiller, the slight weather helm will turn the Nineteen into the wind and stop. It is important to have the Nineteen properly tuned should you fall overboard and need to swim to get back to the boat, the boat is stopped in the water, not sailing on down the lake. Also consider a line accessible to pull yourself on board when you are in the water, the freeboard is very high when your tired. Begin by tightening the turnbuckles on the upper and lower shrouds until the mast does not move side to side easily. Using the jib halyard as a measure, center the mast by bring the halyard to equal points from the bow, perhaps at the chain plates, on each side of the boat. When turning the turnbuckles in tuning the rig, care should be taken to hold the flat surface of the swag fitting above the turnbuckle, so a twist is not put in the cable. Tightening the upper shrouds will put aft bend in the mast. Tightening the lower shrouds will remove some of the bend and take up on the forestay and backstay at the same time. Sight up the mast track from the deck to see if the track is straight. Adjusting the upper and lower shrouds will straighten the mast track. If the mast is pulled to one side or the other, the Nineteen will not feel the same when tacking on the off side tack. Looking at the mast from several parking spaces away will tell you if the mast is raked or bent forward or aft. If the rake is forward, more lee helm will be felt on the tiller and the tiller will be over the centerline of the Nineteen, away from you. With a lee helm, Page 20

21 Rigging the Nineteen will sail on off the wind, when there was no one on the tiller. If the rake is aft, more weather helm there will be more pull toward you on the tiller to hold a course and the Nineteen will turn up into the wind when no hand is on the tiller, thus a balanced Nineteen would turn into the wind and stop. Once the rig is tuned the shrouds should be snuggled down so the saying, "The harder it blows, the tighter she goes," is observed. There are gages which will read the tightness of the shrouds should an accurate check be desired. Remember, the shrouds do stretch and will need to be inspected from time to time for wear. After having sailed for a time, you may wish to have the Nineteen tuned one way for cruising. While, if you race, you may tune the rig in a different manner. BOOM Attach the boom to the mast using the clevis pin and cotter ring in the gooseneck. Take the topping lift from the cleat and bowline knot the line to the outhaul casting, feeding the line through the aft hole. Remove the main sheet from the outhaul cleat. Attach the shackle of the Harken Fiddle Block to the slide loop on the traveler bar. If you will be doing a lot of trailering, or if the mast is dropped often, you may want to purchase a small captured shackle for the topping lift, such as a Schaffer Also, the use of a quick release type of pin, tied to the gooseneck will help to save time. SAILS Working Jib Main Sail Battens 1-3/4" X 18" and cap 2-3/4" X 23 7/8" and cap Sail Bag The sails contracted for the Nineteen were supplied by several Florida sail makers, including Completion, Doyle, and Johnson. There may be others as well as those listed. Working Jib Attach the jib halyard shackle to the grommet in the head, or top, of the sail. Hank the jib on the forestay shroud starting at the head of the sail working down the luff, or at the tack working up the luff. Always do it in the same direction so when the sail is raised a hank has not been missed. Attach the tack to the center hole of the bow plate with the stainless steel shackle, Nicro Fico NF If you will be making several head sail changes you might want to use a snap shackle in place of this shackle. Page 21

22 Rigging Reeve each jib sheet through each Harken Bullet Block 125 on the jib track, inside the shrouds, on the cabin deck, back through the black fairleads to the cam cleat on the cabin deck by the cockpit. Tie a figure eight knot or stopper knot in the bitter end. Raise the jib by pulling on the halyard and cleat off on the port side of the mast, but be sure the sheets are uncleated and the sail can luff, or flap. When the sheets are cleated, the sail has power and if care is not taken, can cause damage whether in the water or on a trailer. A sail can produce a lot of power when slapping around. When a jib luffs be careful, especially with a shackle in the clew, not to be hit in the head. To temporary stow the jib bring it down, remove the halyard shackle to the loop in the bow pulpit. Roll the sail over on itself, shock cord it to a life line or lay on the deck, and draw the sheet snug. Stowing for the night can include bagging the sail or covering with a jib cover on the forestay for protection from the weather. Swinging the downhaul part of the halyard out around the spreader before cleating off, will prevent the halyard from banging on the mast, rubbing paint and keeping everyone in the anchorage or marina awake all night. Main Sail With the main sail, insert the battens into the batten pockets along the leech of the sail. Be sure to place the batten against the elastic spring which helps prevent the batten from coming out under sail. With the foot, or bottom of the sail, feed or thread the bolt rope into the track or groove of the boom. Reeve the outhaul line through the clew grommet, back to the block at the outhaul casting, then forward to the cleat on the starboard side of the boom. Insert the tack of the sail of the captured shackle in the gooseneck casting. Accordion layers of the sail over the boom, being careful the bolt rope of the luff is not twisted. With the headboard, the plastic at the top of the sail, attach the main halyard shackle and insert the main sail luff in the track of the mast. Be sure the main sheet at the end of the boom is uncleated, for the same reason as with the jib sheets. Raise the main sail, and cleat the halyard off on the starboard cleat. Reeve the cunningham line through the grommet just above the tack of the main sail and cleat it off on the small cleat on the port side. When the main sail is stowed, it can be accordion folded on the boom, shock cords used to hold the sail in place and covered with a sail cover for protection from the weather. The main halyard can be shackled to the other loop on the bow pulpit, and the downhaul part hooked around the other spreader to prevent it from banging, just as you did with the jib halyard. Optional Sails These sails may come from the manufacturer or from a sail maker after you have owned the boat a while. Their description is included for their informational value and later Page 22

23 Rigging reference. When ordering any sail for the boat, be sure to MEASURE YOU BOAT, and consult the sail maker for placement of the hardware. Cruising Spinnaker The Cruising Spinnaker is raised on the spinnaker halyard which allows it to fly outside the forestay. The one hank of the sail is above the tack and is attached to the forestay. A downhaul is attached to the tack with a bowline knot and run aft through a Harken Block 82 at the bow, to the jib block and cam cleat on the cabin deck. This is one option. A second option is the use of a Harken Cheek Block 132, attached at the toe rail and the line run aft, and cleat off at the cockpit. The sheets are run aft outside the shrouds to turning blocks at the stern and then to jam cleats or winches in the cockpit. The actual setup may vary depending on the recommendations of the sail maker and the needs of the owner (if single handing, or has regular crew). Genoa The 150% Genoa is hanked on the forestay just as you did the working jib and raised by the jib halyard. The sheets are lead outside the shrouds to the Ronstan Block RF 1277 on the outboard genoa tracks. From the block the sheet is lead back to the Harken Cheek Block 132 on the seat cowling, where a figure eight knot or a stopper knot is tied in the sheet, and up to winches in the cockpit. Roller Furling Jib System This system requires a cable in the luff of the Jib and a rolling system. The jib will be raised with a halyard, though the halyard may or may not cleat off on the mast. The sheets are lead aft just as in a traditional jib. The difference is in the drum at the bow and the swivel at the head of the jib. A light line is lead aft from the drum on the bow to a jam cleat or a cam cleat in the cockpit or on the cabin deck. When pulled, the sail is rolled up on the cable. To open the sail, you pull on the sheet. To close or furl the sail, you pull on the line from the drum to the jam cleat. This sail allows you to cut sail area very quickly and thus cut power and speed. Rod Roller Furling Over the years, advancements have been made in rod rolling furling to bring it to the trailerable boats from the big racing boats. It is made up a rod which slides over the forestay and a drum at the base on the bow. The sail in modified with a bolt rope which slides up a track just as the main sail. A light line is run aft to the cockpit or on the cabin deck. Just as in the jib system, you pull the line to close or furl the sail and you pull the sheet to open the sail. This system takes more work to drop the mast and trailer the boat. If you work your system out, you will find it as workable as the jib system. Again, this sail system allows you to cut sail area very quickly and thus cut power and speed. Spinnaker Page 23

24 Rigging This sail is rigged like the Cruising Spinnaker but it uses more equipment. The sail is raised with the spinnaker halyard outside the forestay, and the sheet and guy are run aft, outside the shrouds to cam cleats or winches in the cockpit. The difference being this sail uses a spinnaker pole with an uphaul and downhaul. A pad eye is attached to the mast to hold the spinnaker pole level with the water or foot of the sail Storm Jib (about 20% of the fore triangle) Heavy Weather Jib (about 44% of the fore triangle) Both sails are a small jib designed to cut the sail area while still leaving the steerage needed. They are raised on the jib halyard and may have a high foot to move the area up on the rig. The sheets are run aft through the jib blocks on the cabin deck to the fairleads and cam cleats. DROPPING THE MAST Remove the main sail and cleat off the halyard. Accordion fold the main sail and place it in the sail bag. Remove the jib, leaving the sheet attached and cleat off the halyard. Folding it accordion style and place it in the sail bag. Remove the main sheet from the traveler but leave it attached to the boom, unless you are using it with the jib halyard to control the mast later. Remove the boom and stow it below. Cleat off the topping lift also. With the cabin hatch closed, take the same stance and reverse the movements as when stepping the mast. Lean against the mast as the second person loosens the turnbuckle and removes the forestay clevis pin and ring at the bow plate. Hold the mast as it comes down, while the second person holds the forestay to add some control as the mast is lowered. Lower the mast to your shoulder, then turn slightly to lower the mast the rest of the way. Bring the mast forward and secure it for trailering. Again be careful to coil the shrouds without kinks in coils of at least 3 feet. If dropping the mast alone, attach a mast crutch at the stern and attach the main sheet to the jib halyard and to the bow. Tighten the system and loosen the turnbuckle. Remove the forestay clevis pin. Move back to the mast, with the main sheet in hand, break the sheet loose. Bring the mast down to your shoulder then down, as you raised the mast, resting the mast in the mast crutch. If the mast does not come out of the tabernacle simply, easily, be sure the mast is parallel to the boat centerline of the boat. Also be careful to apply weight to the mast as you remove it from the tabernacle, so it does not "kick up" and hit you or a crew member. You may have to raise or lower the mast an inch or two to free it. Page 24

25 SECTION III CARE OF THE BOAT Care: Rub and Scrub and Polish The care of a boat is not as demanding with the new technology available today, as it once was with wood boats. With attention twice or three times a season, you boat can look beautiful for many years Care of the Fiberglass The best care of the fiberglass is a good bath with soap and water. There are good non-phosphates soaps on the market which are bio-degradable. After a good washing, wax the fiberglass with any good carborundum wax. But do not wax the anti-skid, just the smooth fiberglass. You may want to think about where you walk on the deck and in the cockpit, before waxing it. If you do get a mark on the fiberglass, and nothing seems to remove it, try a fine grade of rubbing compound to bring the finish back like new. Rubbing compound will even taking off nail polish marks from the non-sailor's wife who wore it and didn't know she left a trail. But remember to use rubbing compound sparingly since it rubs off the finish gelcoat. If the boat is docked or moored for the season, you may want to consider bottom painting below the waterline. You will be amazed what starts to grow in one short week of sitting in water. There are many good paints available. Talking to others at the dock or mooring will give you the type of paint used in your area. Paint used in one area may not be as useful in another, because conditions of the water may vary greatly. Care of the Hardware The spar can be cleaned with soap and water. The winches will need lubricating once a year. Just follow the instructions which came from the manufacturer. The Blocks can be rinsed with clean water to keep them free running. The stainless steel can be cleaned with soap and water as you do the fiberglass. Care of the Outboard Motor The outboard motor is not used all the time but it is depended upon, sometimes in emergencies. The operator's manual will give an outline of maintenance. Something to remember, the manual is for a outboard motor used all the time on a fishing boats or run-a-bouts. A sailboat uses the outboard motor very limitedly. You may want to service the motor not by hours run, as the manual suggests, but by season. There are service manuals available from the manufacturer, as well as from other publishers such as Clymer Publications, should you want to do your own servicing. Care of the Running Rigging Care Page 25

26 Care The running rigging should be inspected all through the sailing season for snags and wear. If in doubt about the line or sheet replace it. At the end of the season, the lines and sheets can be rinsed in a bucket of cold water and hung up to dry, then coiled and stored for the winter in a dry place. They can be run through the washing machine in cold water, a laundry bag can be used to keep the line from fouling. You may also want to turn the main sheet end for end, reversing the bowline knot, and putting the points of wear in a different spot. Care of the Sails As you use the sails, keep an eye out for wear from rigging and use. The sails are the power point of the boat, just like an engine in a powerboat or a car. If a small hole develops, the force of wind can make that little hole a BIG one in a very short time. If you find a hole, take the sail to a sail maker, to have it repaired. The repair will be much less than replacement of a sail. Temporary repairs can be done with Ripstop Sail Tape, until you get the sail to a sail maker. When you accordion the sails, reverse the fold line to take wear off the same fold bend. Store the sails in a dry clean place. Remember the cloth has resin in the weave to hold the shape, if the resin breaks down the cloth gets soft and the shape of the sail is lost. Should you need to wash the sail in just one spot at some point, it is very easy. Do not put the sail in a washing machine! Simply use a mild soap like Ivory, and a soft brush on the spot. Rinse them completely with a hose and let dry. Hang the sail from the luff in the shade, or run the luff up the mast without the foot in the boom to dry. Care should be taken so the sail does not luff or flap because that action will break down the resin on the sail too. You will want to remember this when even at dock or heave-to. It is better to drop the sail, when ever possible, taking the strain off of the sail. There are points in the rigging which you will want to wrap with rigging or white duct tape to prevent rubbing holes in the sails. The ends of the spreaders are one point, or you can buy boots for the spreaders. Covering the shrouds will also help to keep the sails from rubbing on the shrouds. If in doubt, protect the sails. Care of the Standing Rigging As to the care of the standing rigging, care should be taken not to cause kinks or twists to be placed in the cables. If the mast is removed completely, then replaced, the cables should be allowed to uncoil before reattaching the turnbuckles to the chain plates. When turning the turnbuckles in tuning the rig, care should be taken to hold the flat surface of the swag fitting above the turnbuckle, so a twist is not put in the cable. When trailering or storing with the mast down, allow the backstay and forestay cables to form large (about 3 feet across) coils at the upper tang and hanging in the cockpit. The upper and lower shrouds can laid forward on the side decks, and shock cord used to secure the shrouds to the bow plate, is one way of controlling twists. Page 26

27 Care Shroud covers of plastic will prevent black marks on the fiberglass deck from the stainless steel cable. Covering all cables except the forestay, which the jib hanks must slide on freely, will take about 15, 1/8" X 6' shroud covers. Also, a length of clear plastic tubing (5/8" id. X 10") over the forestay turnbuckle will keep the jib hanks from hanging up on the turnbuckle, if they should try. At regular periods, all cables should be carefully inspected for wear or broken wire, by sliding tissue over the shroud. If any wear or broken wires are found, the shroud should be replaced immediately. Over the years, the cables will also stretch to where the rig will not be tight and can not be properly tuned, at which point the standing rigging should be replaced. If the boat is left rigged over the season, in the water or on a trailer, the shrouds will have more strength over the years. The constant movement in the water will be one source. The wind blowing against the mast on a dry sailed boat will have the same effect. Care of the Teak The teak will need an oil dressing about twice a season. There is much debate about which teak cleaner and oil is best. The only way to know is ask owners who have teak looking the way you would like yours to look. You may try several brands, over the years before you find the cleaner which gives you the look you like, or you may find it in the first brand you try. There are many good varnishes on the market should you want the shine and sealed finish. If you wish to varnish your teak, you will need to sand the wood before you varnish. Once varnished, you will need to watch for chips, and touch them up before you need to redo the entire boat. Any good maintenance book can detail the steps to perfect varnishing of teak. Care of the Trailer The trailer should be inspected all though the sailing season and before any long trips. Check the coupler for smooth operation and locking, and the chains for excessive rust. Be sure to always cross the chains and hook the S-Hook so they can not jump out when going over a bump or chuck hole. Use a locking pin or a trailer lock to insure the coupler is locked to the hitch ball. Examine the winch for rust and lubricate as needed. Check the rope or cable for signs of wear. When winching the boat on the trailer, stay as well clear of the rope or cable as possible, should it snap. Check the bolts for rust which hold the winch stand to the tongue, the frame to the springs, and the risers to the frame. A rusted bolt could mean the lost of the rig. A clear Page 27

28 Care spray paint can be used to seal these bolts against rust. If the bolts show signs of rust, use naval jelly to remove it and then spray paint the bolts. Inspect the wood bunks for any sign of rot or splitting, and replace questionable bunks. If the trailer has roller type bunks, check the rollers for smooth action in all directions when the boat is off the trailer. The wheel bearings will need to be repacked at least once a season, and more often if you trailer long distances. This is not a hard job to do yourself, but be sure to block the trailer frame well before starting work. Be sure to check the tire pressure regularly. If the tires are under inflated, a vibration will be felt in the steering wheel. The electrical wiring should also be in working order. A simple walk around after everything is stowed and ready to pull out to the parking lot will cover much of this, just as an aircraft pilot walks around the airplane. Care of the Windows Use only silicone based caulking compound for bedding purposes. Avoid use of acetone or cleaners containing solvents. Original luster and appearance may be protected by cleaning with hot soapy water and buffing with a plastic polish suitable for polycarbonates or ABS. To protect the working surfaces lubricate with any good silicone based oil or spray. Page 28

29 SECTION IV LAUNCHING THE BOAT Launch Launching: Getting Her Wet Now you are ready to launch the Nineteen. Pull into a parking space at the launch ramp, parking into the wind, if possible. Be sure to CHECK FOR OVERHEAD WIRES, and rig the boat. Step the mast, secure the sail in place, pull out the life jackets for all on board, don't forget the throwable, and stow the food, ice, and clothes. Check the wind direction again to see if it has shifted while rigging the boat. Check the ramp, if there are multiple lanes, decide which lane to use, setting up the fenders and dock lines for the dock side, ready to grab. Also watching other sailors will tell you how to sail away from the dock or ramp, if you choose to sail away Having rigged the boat and checked the ramp, you are ready to enter the launch lane. Check to see you have unplugged the trailer lights, and removed any trailer tie down straps and you are ready to enter the launch line. Here is where the parking lot practice of backing the Nineteen between all those lines be comes very useful. Back the boat down into the water; at the last 2 or 3 feet disconnect the bow winch rope and back the rest of the way. If you are using a bunk type trailer, you may want to disconnect the winch earlier. With a roller type trailer, you will need to wait until the last 2 or 3 feet, so the boat does not roll off the trailer, launching before you are ready. Take the Nineteen to the end of the dock and cleat her off, so others can launch or retrieve their boats, while you are parking the trailer. No matter which type of trailer you have, you may want to loop a dock line over the winch stand to prevent the boat from getting away from the dock. Float the Nineteen off the trailer. Dock lines from the bow and stern, tied together, make controlling the boat very easy from any point on the dock. Upon boarding the Nineteen, uncleat the centerboard and let it drop into place. If this is an unknown ramp, let the centerboard down slowly to be sure of the depth. If there is not the 4'6" depth, you can sail out on the shoal draft alone and drop the centerboard later. If you forget to drop the centerboard, the only difference you will notice is the Nineteen does not point, or steer a course as close to the wind (or to windward). Again, be sure a figure eight knot is in the centerboard line. If your lose this line, it will have to be fished through the cockpit, while the boat is in the water before you can load the boat on the trailer again. The knot can be closer to the cleat, or a second knot can be added, so you can tell when the board is down by a glance. This knot will also prevent the centerboard from swinging too far forward in the centerboard trunk and damaging the fiberglass. You will also notice this line runs through the hole in the cleat making it easy to cleat. Using the downhaul on the rudder, lock the rudder in the down position. If the lock nut is too tight you will not be able to move the rudder, and have to loosen it. You may also want to start the outboard motor after positioning the rudder, if you plan to motor away for the dock, so it has time to warm up as you prepare to shove off. Be Page 29