Hawaii. by Jeanette Foster. Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist

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2 Hawaii 2008 by Jeanette Foster Here s what the critics say about Frommer s: Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges. Glamour Magazine Hotel information is close to encyclopedic. Des Moines Sunday Register Frommer s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place. Knight Ridder Newspapers

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4 Hawaii 2008 by Jeanette Foster Here s what the critics say about Frommer s: Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges. Glamour Magazine Hotel information is close to encyclopedic. Des Moines Sunday Register Frommer s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place. Knight Ridder Newspapers

5 Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ Copyright 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/ , fax 978/ Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/ , fax 317/ , or online at Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN: Editor: Christine Ryan Production Editor: Michael Brumitt Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/ , outside the U.S. at 317/ or fax 317/ Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America

6 Contents List of Maps viii What s New in Hawaii 1 Smoke-Free State The Best of Hawaii 5 1 The Best Beaches The Best Island Experiences The Best of Natural Hawaii The Best of Underwater Hawaii The Best Golf Courses The Best Ways to Immerse Yourself in Hawaiian Culture The Welcoming Lei The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations The Best Places to Stay with the Kids The Best Resort Spas Pampering in Paradise The Best Dining, Hawaii Style The Best Restaurants The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails Planning Your Trip to Hawaii 28 1 Visitor Information & Maps Hawaii on the Web Entry Requirements When to Go Hawaii Calendar of Events Getting There Getting through the Airport Money Travel Insurance Health Don t Get Burned: Smart Tanning Tips Safety Specialized Travel Resources Sustainable Tourism/Ecotourism Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource Staying Connected Packages for the Independent Traveler Ask Before You Go Special-Interest Trips Fun for Less: Don t Leave Home without a Gold Card

7 iv CONTENTS 14 Getting Around Hawaii Tips on Accommodations Getting Married in the Islands Fast Facts: The Hawaiian Islands Suggested Hawaii Itineraries 82 1 A Week on Oahu A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii A Week on Maui A Week on Molokai A Week on Lanai A Week on Kauai Oahu, the Gathering Place 95 1 Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: Oahu Where to Stay It s Not Your Father s Waikiki A Room for Everyone in Waikiki: The Outrigger & Ohana Hotels Dynasty Waikiki Beach Walk Take a Healthy Vacation: Have Your Next Medical Checkup in Waikiki Where to Dine Dining in Waikiki Tasty Tours for the Hungry Traveler Local Chains & Familiar Names Luau! Beaches Frommer s Favorite Oahu Experiences Watersports Experiencing Jaws: Up Close & Personal Nature Hikes Camping & Wilderness Cabins Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Orientation Tours A Bird s-eye View Rolling through Waikiki on a Segway Attractions in & Around Honolulu & Waikiki Especially for Kids Oahu s Vibrant Art Scene Walking Tour: A Stroll Through Historic Chinatown Beyond Honolulu: Exploring the Island by Car Shopping A to Z Fish Markets Health-Food Stores Oahu After Dark Get Down with ARTafterDark

8 CONTENTS v 5 Hawaii, the Big Island Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: The Big Island Where to Stay Where to Dine A Tasty Tour Kona Coffee Craze! Coming Soon to a Restaurant Near You Epicurean Farm Tour & Dinner A Lunch for All Five Senses Bet You Can t Just Eat One Beaches Watersports Frommer s Favorite Big Island Experiences Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Improve Your Golf Game in 2 1 /2 Hours Seeing the Sights Especially for Kids Experiencing Where the Gods Live Imiloa: Exploring the Unknown Shops & Galleries The Big Island After Dark An Evening under the Stars Old-Style Hawaiian Entertainment Maui, the Valley Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: Maui Where to Stay Where to Dine Beaches Frommer s Favorite Maui Experiences Watersports An Expert Shares His Secrets: Maui s Best Dives Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Especially for Kids Seeing the Sights Ho omana o: Step Back in Time to Old Hawaii Stop & Smell the Lavender Shops & Galleries Maui s Own: OCEAN Vodka Maui After Dark A Night to Remember: Luau, Maui Style Molokai, the Most Hawaiian Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Where to Stay

9 vi CONTENTS Believe It or Not: High-Priced Camping Where to Dine Beaches Watersports Molokai s Best Snorkel Spots Hiking & Camping Frommer s Favorite Molokai Experiences Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Especially for Kids Halawa Valley: A Hike Back in History Shopping The Perfect Molokai Souvenir Molokai After Dark Lanai, a Different Kind of Paradise Orientation Getting Around Where to Stay Where to Dine Beaches Frommer s Favorite Lanai Experiences Watersports Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Especially for Kids Shopping Lanai After Dark Kauai, the Garden Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Niihau: The Forbidden Island Getting Around Fast Facts: Kauai Where to Stay The King of Condos Moa Better: Chickens & Roosters Where to Dine Plate-Lunch Pointers Beaches Frommer s Favorite Kauai Experiences Watersports Especially for Kids Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Hollywood Loves Kauai Shops & Galleries Fruity Smoothies & Other Exotic Treats Kauai After Dark

10 CONTENTS vii Appendix: Hawaii in Depth History Hawaii Today Life & Language A Taste of Hawaii The Natural World: An Environmental Guide to the Islands Recommended Reading Index 643

11 List of Maps The Hawaiian Islands 7 Oahu in 1 Week 83 The Big Island in 1 Week 86 Maui in 1 Week 88 Molokai in 1 Week 90 Lanai in 1 Week 92 Kauai in 1 Week 93 Oahu 98 Honolulu Neighborhoods in Brief 100 Waikiki Orientation 102 Downtown Honolulu 104 TheBus 108 Where to Stay in Waikiki 114 Where to Dine in Waikiki 142 Honolulu Dining Beyond Waikiki 152 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Oahu 174 Honolulu Attractions 200 Walking Tour: Historic Chinatown 211 Eastern Oahu & the Windward Coast 215 Central & Leeward Oahu 221 Oahu s North Shore 224 The Big Island 244 Where to Stay on the Kona Coast 253 Where to Stay & Dine in North Kohala & Waimea 263 Where to Stay & Dine in the Volcano Area 271 Where to Dine on the Kona Coast 275 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on the Big Island 296 Kailua-Kona Town 317 Hilo 331 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park 335 Maui 358 Lahaina & Kaanapali Accommodations & Attractions 369 Where to Stay & Dine in West Maui 377 Where to Stay & Dine in South Maui 381 Upcountry & East Maui 391 Where to Dine in Lahaina & Kaanapali 403 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Maui 422 Haleakala National Park 455 Hana 463 Molokai 481 Where to Stay & Dine on Molokai 487 Lanai 517 Kauai 539 Where to Stay & Dine in Lihue 545 Where to Stay & Dine in the Poipu Resort Area 549 Where to Stay & Dine on the Coconut Coast 555 Where to Stay & Dine on Kauai s North Shore 560 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Kauai 583

12 Acknowledgments Special thanks to Priscilla Life, the best researcher in Hawaii. An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We re sure you ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer s Hawaii 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Author A resident of the Big Island, Jeanette Foster has skied the slopes of Mauna Kea during a Fourth of July ski meet, no less and gone scuba diving with manta rays off the Kona Coast. A prolific writer widely published in travel, sports, and adventure magazines, she s also a contributing editor to Hawaii magazine, the editor of Zagat s Survey to Hawaii s Top Restaurants, and the Hawaii chapter author of 1,000 Places to See in the U.S.A. and Canada Before You Die. In addition to writing this guide, Jeanette is the author of Frommer s Maui 2008; Frommer s Kauai; Frommer s Hawaii with Kids; Frommer s Portable Big Island of Hawaii; Frommer s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu; Frommer s Maui Day by Day; and Frommer s Honolulu & Oahu Day by Day. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer s Maui 2008 Frommer s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu Frommer s Portable Big Island of Hawaii Frommer s Portable Maui Frommer s Kauai Frommer s Hawaii with Kids Frommer s Maui Day by Day Frommer s Honolulu & Oahu Day by Day Hawaii For Dummies

13 Frommer s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Fun Fact Kids Moments Overrated Tips Value Special finds those places only insiders know about Fun facts details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Special moments those experiences that memories are made of Places or experiences not worth your time or money Insider tips great ways to save time and money Great values where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include: Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

14 What s New in Hawaii Nearing the end of the first decade of the 21st century, Hawaii is reinventing itself with big upgrades and renovations at all the major resort areas, improved air transportation to and within the state, more outdoor and ocean activities, and great eateries for every kind of cuisine, from gourmet to plate lunch, to shrimp trucks parked by the side of the road. And more people are coming to the 50th state some 8.45 million people visited Hawaii in the last year, 4% more than the previous year. Below is a brief overview of the Aloha State s latest changes that can make your vacation to Hawaii better than ever. PLANNING YOUR TRIP Getting Around Joining Hawaiian Airlines and Aloha Air as interisland air carriers is go! (& 888/IFLYGO2; owned by Mesa Air Group (which has more than 1,000 flights to 166 cities across the U.S., Canada, and Mexico). The new airline began service with 50-passenger Bombardier CRJ 200 jets with service from Honolulu to Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island (both Hilo and Kona). go! offers the cheapest interisland fares in Hawaii. In 2007, visitors to Molokai and Lanai got not one, but two new commuter airlines which began flying from Honolulu to Molokai and Lanai. go! airline started a new commuter service from Honolulu to Molokai and Lanai, under the name, go!express, on their new fleet of Cessna Grand Caravan 208B planes. Another commuter airline, Pacific Wings, started operating their discount airline, PW Express (& 888/ or 808/ ; with daily nonstop flights between Honolulu and Molokai and Lanai, plus flights from Kahului, Maui, and Molokai. As we went to press, on the horizon was the proposed Hawaii Superferry ( a 350-foot vessel which could carry 866 passengers and 282 cars and trucks between Honolulu and Kauai, Maui, and the Big Island at speeds up to 35 knots. The State of Hawaii has committed some $40 million for harbor improvements to accommodate the new ferry service. Hawaii briefly had a ferry service (Super Flite) in the 1970s, but the high winds and waves took its toll on the hydrofoil boat and it lasted only a few years. Proposed fares range from $42 to $62 for passengers and $55 to $75 for cars. However, environmentalists have been fighting the Superferry for years because the company was not required to do an environmental impact statement. Recently Hawaii legislators have gotten into the flight and have called for a more thorough review of the impact of the Superferry, and Maui County has joined a lawsuit with environmentalists on whether state improvements to Kahului Harbor are adequate to handle increased traffic from the Superferry. Stay tuned.... Ocean Safety Sharks may make the headlines, but drownings claim far more

15 2 WHAT S NEW lives. The City and County of Honolulu has a staff of 200 professional lifeguards (the largest in the nation), but most of the drownings occur at beaches where there are no lifeguards. To educate people about ocean safety and how that beautiful blue ocean may look calm but have numerous dangers under the waves, the state has launched several websites, including Hawaii Beach Hazard Forecast ( a partnership between the University of Hawaii and Honolulu s city ocean safety office. The site informs beachgoers statewide (you can click on the island of your choice) on ocean conditions at hundreds of beaches, including whether they are safe for swimming. The island of Kauai has an even better website, www. kauaiexplorer.com, with daily updates from lifeguards around Kauai on the beach conditions. Hawaiian Airlines airs a brief water safety video on all flights from the mainland explaining what those warning signs posted at beaches in Hawaii mean. Tips on Accommodations For the first time, the number of new hotel units is down and the number of new time shares and condotels (condominium units in a hotel which are sold to private ownership but remain in the hotel s rental pool) is up. Since the arrival of the big boys of the vacation industry into timeshares (Hilton, Marriott, Ritz-Carlton, etc.), the industry has taken off in Hawaii. Statewide, Hawaii has some 15,000 condotel rooms and more than 7,000 timeshare units. Even the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua is selling some of its suites (some will stay in the hotel rental pool). Also, at Kapalua Resort on Maui, a new concept called fractional ownership on luxury homes and condominiums allows you to stay there 21 days per year. Units are priced in the high six figures. Not to worry there are still 73,000 hotel rooms statewide, and the majority of visitors (63%) prefer the old-fashioned way of traveling versus staying in a condotel (21%), a timeshare (10%), a vacation rental (3.3%), or a B&B (1%). OAHU Where to Stay One of the biggest projects to take place in Waikiki in decades is the total renovation of an 8- acre area (bound by Saratoga Rd., Kalakaua Ave., Lewers St., and Kalia Rd.) called the Waikiki Beach Walk. The project, by Outrigger Hotels & Resorts, cost some $460 million. Phase 1, completed in 2007, reconfigured the formerly very congested area (narrow streets with double-parked delivery trucks, crowded sidewalks, and no vegetation) into an oasis of broad sidewalks, tropical foliage, water features, open space, and new, totally renovated hotels. Eleven hotels were razed, upgraded, or changed to suites or condos. Five hotels and one unit of timeshare condominiums remain. The bad news is, most of the budget hotels, neighborhood eateries, and small independent shops in the area have been replaced with luxury (higher-priced) properties and swank shops and trendy restaurants to match, all linked through pedestrian bridges and connecting walkways. These changes inspired other hotel groups to make changes of their own (details in the Oahu chapter, p. 116 and 124). Aqua Hotels and Resorts entered the Waikiki market by upgrading and rebranding several off-the-beach properties. Hilton added a property the former Radisson Waikiki Prince Kuhio, after massive renovations, was rebranded the Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio Hotel. Not to be outdone, Starwood announced renovations, demolition, and additions to their Waikiki hotels (see p. 117 for details). And finally, the other new property coming to Waikiki is the Trump International Hotel, estimated to open in When the hotel-condominium went on

16 WHAT S NEW 3 sale in December 2006, every one of the 460 luxury units sold out within just a few hours. The ultra-upscale property will have hotel suites available and offer 24-hour concierge and room service. Other amenities will include a lobby bar, cafe, outdoor swimming pool, private fitness center, and separate lobbies for hotel guests and residents. Beaches You may notice on your next trip to Waikiki Beach that it seems bigger and better. Yes, it is bigger about 40% bigger than it has been in years. Waikiki, like lots of other beaches on Oahu and Maui, has faced chronic erosion problems for the past 50 years. A pilot project in Waikiki (costing $425,000) dredged up 9,500 cubic yards of sand from a half mile off the shore, and then pumped the sand, underwater, back to Kuhio Beach, fronting the Duke Kahanamoku statue. The former 20-foot-wide shoreline is now 40 feet wide. BIG ISLAND Golf For those interested in improving their golf game, Darrin Gee s Spirit of Golf Academy (& 866-GOLF-433; hawaii.com) has developed a hour clinic that helps golfers gain focus and relax under pressure, among other skills. Classes meet at the Big Island Country Club or Mauna Kea Resort s Hapuna course. Shopping New shopping and dining opportunities are underway with the opening of the Queen s MarketPlace ( located across the street from the Kings Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Seeing the Sights Don t leave Hilo without visiting Imiloa: Astronomy Center of Hawaii, University of Hawaii at Hilo Science and Technology Park campus, 600 Imiloa Pl. (& 808/ ; Some 300 exhibits in the 12,000-square-foot gallery connect the Hawaiian culture and its explorers, who discovered the Hawaiian Islands, with the astronomers who explore the heavens from the observatories atop Mauna Kea. Imiloa, which means explorer or seeker of profound truth, is the perfect name. The center s stunning architecture, featuring titanium cones, sits on 9 landscaped acres overlooking Hilo Bay. Allow at least a half a day to wander around. The Big Island After Dark The Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa has a new luau and show: Kamaha o, The Wondrous Myths of Hawaii (& 808/ ; featuring lavish theatrics woven into Hawaiian chants, legends, and hula, with acrobatic performing arts. This is definitely not a typical, tired Polynesian revue. MAUI Several new restaurants have opened on the Valley Isle. E&O Trading Company, Lahaina Cannery Mall, 1221 Honoapiilani Hwy. (& 808/ ; serves eclectic Southeast Asian cuisine in an elaborate setting (p. 404). At Mala Ocean Tavern, 1307 Front St., in Lahaina (& 808/ ; you can enjoy an ocean view as you dine on tavern food such as ahi burgers or cheeseburgers, one of the tempting salads (the beet and Kula goat cheese salad is divine), or something off the big plate menu (perhaps wok-fried moi fish or glazed baby back ribs). Tastings Wine Bar & Grill, Kihei Kalama Village, 1912 S. Kihei Rd. (& 808/ ), a tiny, tiny hole in the wall, produces islandinspired American Cuisine and features excellent food and wine pairings. Maui now has an organic vodka, OCEAN Vodka ( It s made from water 3,000 feet beneath the ocean off the Kona coast of the Big Island which is shipped to Maui, where it s blended with organic corn and rye to produce this one-of-a-kind libation. A

17 4 WHAT S NEW Smoke-Free State Hawaii has gone smoke-free with one of the toughest smoking laws in the country: It s against the law to smoke in public buildings, including airports, shopping malls, grocery stores, retail shops, buses, movie theaters, banks, convention facilities, and all government buildings and facilities. There is no smoking in restaurants, bars, or nightclubs. You cannot smoke in parking garages, public lobbies (anywhere where there are employees is considered public), lanais, patios, covered walkways, or bus stops that have a roof or have two sides enclosed. The fine is $50. Most bed-and-breakfasts prohibit smoking indoors; more and more hotels and resorts are becoming nonsmoking even in public areas. Also, there is no smoking within 20 feet of a doorway, window, or ventilation intake (so no hanging around outside a bar to smoke you must go 20 ft. away). Where can you smoke? Curbside along the street (but not within 20 ft. of a door or window), in your car, or in a tobacco shop. Even some beaches have no-smoking policies. On those that do allow smoking, you d better pick up your butts instead of using the sand as your own private ashtray, or you could face a stiff fine. number of Maui restaurants serve OCEAN Vodka visit the website to find out where to try it. LANAI The Lodge at Koele has joined its sister hotel, Manele Bay Resort, in being rebranded a Four Season Resort (& 800/ or 808/ ; with plans for a free-standing Wellness Center and Spa to be built in KAUAI Where to Stay The Outrigger Waipouli Beach Resort & Spa (& 800/ OUTRIGGER or 808/ ; www. outrigger.com), a $200-million luxury condominium project on 12.6 acres between the historic towns of Wailua and Kapaa, opened recently with high-end one- and two-bedroom units and a long list of amenities, such as a 4,000-square-foot Aveda spa and a 300,000-gallon heated saltwater fantasy pool complete with flowing river, garden, dual serpentine waterslides, a sand-bottom children s pool, and three sand-bottom whirlpool tubs. Hilton renovated and rebranded the old Radisson Kauai, opening as the Hilton Kauai Beach Hotel Resort (& 800/ HILTONS or 808/ ; kauairesort.com), one of the few hotels on Kauai offering complimentary airport shuttle service. Where to Dine In the culinary world, Mediterranean Gourmet (& 808/ ), located next door to the Hanalei Colony Resort, was awarded Best New Restaurant on Kauai for chef/owner Imad Beydoun s Middle Eastern dishes, which he embellishes with an island twist.

18 The Best of Hawaii 1 There s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-pacific islands. The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really does exist. Here you ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and soaring volcanoes. And oh, those beaches gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The possibilities for adventure and relaxation are endless. Each of the six main islands is separate, distinct, and infinitely complex. There s far too much to see and do on any 2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year after year. Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. If you re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps selling shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cellophane-skirted hula dancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get on that free snorkeling trip. That s where this guide comes in. As a Hawaii resident, I can tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book will steer you away from the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced and toward the best Hawaii has to offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will help ensure that every dollar is well spent. 1 The Best Beaches Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii s postcard-perfect beaches a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm yearround and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning not only as scenic backdrops, but also as bird sanctuaries. See p Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This 1 2- mile-long crescent regularly wins kudos in the world s top travel magazines as the most beautiful beach in Hawaii some consider it one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. One look and you ll see why: Perfect cream-colored sand slopes down to crystal-clear waters that are great for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing in summer; come winter, waves thunder in like stampeding horses. The facilities for picnicking and camping are top-notch, and there s plenty of parking. See p Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an island with many great beaches, Kapalua takes the prize. This golden crescent with swaying palms is protected from strong winds and currents by two outstretched lava-rock promontories. Its calm waters are perfect for snorkeling, swimming,

19 6 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF HAWAII and kayaking. Facilities include showers, restrooms, and lifeguards. See p Papohaku Beach (Molokai): These gold sands stretch on for some 3 miles (it s one of Hawaii s longest beaches) and are about as wide as a football field. Offshore the ocean churns mightily in winter, but the waves die down in summer, making the calm waters inviting for swimming. It s also great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets. See p Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This golden, palm-fringed beach off the south coast of Lanai gently slopes down to the azure waters of a Marine Life Conservation District, where clouds of tropical fish flourish and spinner dolphins come to play. A tide pool in the lava rocks defines one side 2 The Best Island Experiences Hitting the Beach: A beach is a beach is a beach, right? Not in Hawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, and reefs, plus a general coastline of 750 miles, Hawaii has beaches in all different shapes, sizes, and colors, including black. The variety on the six major islands is astonishing; you could go to a different beach every day for years and still not see them all. For the best of a spectacular bunch, see The Best Beaches, above. Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin, and snorkel, and explore Hawaii s magical underwater world, where exotic corals and kaleidoscopic clouds of tropical fish await you a sea turtle may even come over to check you out. Can t swim? That s no excuse take one of the many submarine tours offered by Atlantis Submarines (& 800/ ; com) on Oahu, the Big Island, and of the bay, while the other is lorded over by the Manele Bay Hotel, which sits prominently on the hill above. Offshore you ll find good swimming, snorkeling, and diving; onshore there s a full complement of beach facilities, from restrooms to camping areas. See p Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed by verdant cliffs, this curvaceous North Shore beach has starred as Paradise in many a movie. It s easy to see why Hollywood loves Haena Beach, with its grainy golden sand and translucent turquoise waters. Summer months bring calm waters for swimming and snorkeling, and winter brings mighty waves for surfers. There are plenty of facilities on hand, including picnic tables, restrooms, and showers. See p Maui. Check out the Watersports section in each island chapter for more information on all these underwater adventures. Meeting Local Folks: If you go to Hawaii and see only people like the ones back home, you might as well not have come. Extend yourself leave your hotel, go out and meet the locals, and learn about Hawaii and its people. Just smile and say Owzit? which means How is it? ( It s good, is the usual response) and you re on your way to making a new friend. Hawaii is remarkably cosmopolitan; every ethnic group in the world seems to be represented here. There s a huge diversity of food, culture, language, and customs. Feeling History Come Alive at Pearl Harbor (Oahu): The United States could turn its back on World War II no longer after December 7, 1941, when Japanese warplanes

20 THE BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCES 7 The Hawaiian Islands 160 W Hanalei Princeville 159 W 158 W 157 W 156 W 155 W KAUAI OAHU Laie P A C I F I C O C E A N P A C I F I C O C E A N Kauai Channel Kaulakahi Channel 22 N Puuwai Pearl Harbor MOLOKAI Pailolo Channel Kaiwi Channel 21 N NIIHAU Poipu Lihue Haleiwa Makaha Honolulu Kailua Waikiki Kaunakakai Kaanapali Kahului MAUI Lanai City Lahaina Hana LANAI Kihei Haleakala National Park KAHOOLAWE Kalohi Channel Auau Channel Auau Channel A lenuihaha Channel Kealaikahiki Channel Fiji Tonga Honolulu Honolulu Los Angeles Hawaii 2,556 miles Cook Islands Easter Island Keahole Point Kailua-Kona Wailuku Hawi Captain Cook km Waimea Mauna Kea Mauna Loa HAWAII The Big Island Hilo 50 mi Airport Mountain INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE JAPAN Honolulu Sydney 5,065 miles Equator AUSTRALIA Sydney New Zealand Samoa Islands Tahiti Los Angeles P A C I F I C O C E A N Kilauea Crater Hawaii Volcanoes National Park 19 N 160 W 159 W 158 W 157 W 156 W Ka Lea (South Point) 155 W 22 N 21 N 20 N 19 N UNITED STATES Honolulu Tokyo 3,862 miles Honolulu Mexico City 3,791 miles