Hawaii. by Jeanette Foster. Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist

Transcription

1 Hawaii 2009 by Jeanette Foster Here s what the critics say about Frommer s: Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges. Glamour Magazine Hotel information is close to encyclopedic. Des Moines Sunday Register Frommer s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place. Knight Ridder Newspapers

2 Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ Copyright 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/ , fax 978/ Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/ , fax 317/ , or online at Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN Editor: Leslie Shen, with Christine Ryan Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/ , outside the U.S. at 317/ or fax 317/ Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America

3 Contents List of Maps vii What s New in Hawaii 1 1 The Best of Hawaii 4 1 The Best Beaches The Best Island Experiences The Best of Natural Hawaii The Best of Underwater Hawaii The Best Golf Courses The Best Ways to Immerse Yourself in Hawaiian Culture The Welcoming Lei The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations The Best Places to Stay with the Kids The Best Resort Spas Pampering in Paradise The Best Dining, Hawaii Style The Best Restaurants The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails Hawaii in Depth 27 1 Hawaii Today Looking Back at Hawaii Is Everyone Hawaiian in Hawaii?...29 Do You Have to Speak Hawaiian in Hawaii? Pidgin: Eh Fo Real, Brah The Lay of the Land Hawaii in Popular Culture: Books, Film & Music Eating & Drinking in Hawaii Planning Your Trip to Hawaii 48 1 Visitor Information Hawaii on the Web Entry Requirements When to Go Hawaii Calendar of Events Getting There & Getting Around Money & Costs Health Don t Get Burned: Smart Tanning Tips Safety Specialized Travel Resources Sustainable Tourism Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource Packages for the Independent Traveler Special-Interest Trips Don t Leave Home Without Your Gold Card Staying Connected Tips on Accommodations Getting Married in the Islands

4 iv CONTENTS 4 Suggested Hawaii Itineraries 89 1 A Week on Oahu A Week on the Big Island of Hawaii A Week on Maui A Week on Molokai A Week on Lanai A Week on Kauai Oahu, the Gathering Place Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: Oahu Where to Stay It s Not Your Father s Waikiki A Room for Everyone in Waikiki: The Outrigger & Ohana Hotels Dynasty Waikiki Beach Walk Where to Dine Tasty Tours for the Hungry Traveler Attention, Condo Dwellers: Fix, Freeze & Feed Dinners Local Chains & Familiar Names Luau! Beaches Frommer s Favorite Oahu Experiences Watersports Experiencing Jaws: Up Close & Personal Nature Hikes Camping & Wilderness Cabins Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Orientation Tours A Bird s-eye View Rolling Through Waikiki on a Segway Attractions in & Around Honolulu & Waikiki Especially for Kids Rainy Days or Too Much Time in the Sun Oahu s Vibrant Arts Scene Walking Tour 1: Historic Chinatown Walking Tour 2: Honolulu Waterfront Walking Tour 3: Historic Honolulu Beyond Honolulu: Exploring the Island by Car Shopping A to Z Fish Markets Health-Food Stores Oahu After Dark Get Down with ARTafterDARK Hawaii, the Big Island Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: The Big Island Where to Stay Where to Dine

5 CONTENTS v A Tasty Tour Kona Coffee Craze! Epicurean Farm Tour & Dinner A Lunch for All Five Senses Bet You Can t Eat Just One Beaches Watersports Frommer s Favorite Big Island Experiences Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Improve Your Golf Game in 2 1 /2 Hours Seeing the Sights Experience How the Locals Live (& Eat!) Especially for Kids Experiencing Where the Gods Live Imiloa: Exploring the Unknown Shops & Galleries The Big Island After Dark An Evening Under the Stars Old-Style Hawaiian Entertainment Maui, the Valley Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Fast Facts: Maui Where to Stay What s Happening with B&Bs on Maui? Where to Dine Beaches Frommer s Favorite Maui Experiences Watersports An Expert Shares His Secrets: Maui s Best Dives Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Moratorium on Bike Tours in Haleakala National Park Especially for Kids Seeing the Sights Hoomanao: Step Back in Time to Old Hawaii Stop & Smell the Lavender Shops & Galleries Maui s Own: OCEAN Vodka Maui After Dark A Night to Remember: Luau, Maui Style Molokai, the Most Hawaiian Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Getting Around Where to Stay Where to Dine Beaches Watersports Molokai s Best Snorkel Spots Hiking & Camping Frommer s Favorite Molokai Experiences Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Especially for Kids

6 vi CONTENTS Halawa Valley: A Hike Back in History Shopping The Perfect Molokai Souvenir Molokai After Dark Lanai, a Different Kind of Paradise Orientation Getting Around Where to Stay Where to Dine Beaches Frommer s Favorite Lanai Experiences Watersports Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Especially for Kids Shopping Lanai After Dark Kauai, the Garden Isle Orientation The Island in Brief Niihau: The Forbidden Island Getting Around Fast Facts: Kauai Where to Stay The King of Condos Moa Better: Chickens & Roosters Where to Dine Plate-Lunch Pointers Beaches Frommer s Favorite Kauai Experiences Watersports Especially for Kids Hiking & Camping Golf & Other Outdoor Activities Seeing the Sights Make a Pilgrimage to a Hindu Temple Hollywood Loves Kauai Shops & Galleries Fruity Smoothies & Other Exotic Treats Kauai After Dark Appendix: Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers & Websites Fast Facts: Hawaii Toll-Free Numbers & Websites Index 641

7 List of Maps The Hawaiian Islands 5 Oahu in 1 Week 91 The Big Island in 1 Week 93 Maui in 1 Week 95 Molokai in 1 Week 97 Lanai in 1 Week 98 Kauai in 1 Week 100 Oahu 104 Honolulu Neighborhoods in Brief 108 Waikiki Orientation 110 Downtown Honolulu 112 TheBus 116 Where to Stay in Waikiki 120 Where to Dine in Waikiki 148 Honolulu Dining Beyond Waikiki 156 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Oahu 178 Honolulu Attractions 204 Walking Tour: Historic Chinatown 217 Walking Tour: Honolulu Waterfront 221 Walking Tour: Historic Honolulu 223 Eastern Oahu & the Windward Coast 229 Central & Leeward Oahu 233 Oahu s North Shore 237 The Big Island 256 Where to Stay on the Kona Coast 265 The Kohala Coast, North Kohala & Waimea 273 Where to Stay & Dine in the Volcano Area 283 Where to Dine on the Kona Coast 287 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on the Big Island 308 Kailua-Kona Town 327 Hilo 341 Hawaii Volcanoes National Park 345 Maui 368 Lahaina & Kaanapali Accommodations & Attractions 381 Where to Stay & Dine in West Maui 389 Where to Stay & Dine in South Maui 393 Upcountry & East Maui 403 Where to Dine in Lahaina & Kaanapali 413 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Maui 434 Haleakala National Park 465 Hana 473 Molokai 493 Where to Stay & Dine on Molokai 497 Lanai 523 Kauai 545 Where to Stay & Dine in Lihue 553 Where to Stay & Dine in the Poipu Resort Area 555 Where to Stay & Dine on the Coconut Coast 563 Where to Stay & Dine on Kauai s North Shore 568 Beaches & Outdoor Activities on Kauai 589

8 An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We re sure you ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer s Hawaii 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Author A resident of the Big Island, Jeanette Foster has skied the slopes of Mauna Kea during a Fourth of July ski meet, no less and gone scuba diving with manta rays off the Kona Coast. A prolific writer widely published in travel, sports, and adventure magazines, she s also a contributing editor to Hawaii magazine, the editor of Zagat s Survey to Hawaii s Top Restaurants, and the Hawaii chapter author of 1,000 Places to See in the USA and Canada Before You Die. In addition to writing this guide, Jeanette is the author of Frommer s Maui; Frommer s Kauai; Frommer s Hawaii with Kids; Frommer s Portable Big Island; Frommer s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu; Frommer s Maui Day by Day; and Frommer s Honolulu & Oahu Day by Day. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer s Maui Frommer s Honolulu, Waikiki & Oahu Frommer s Portable Big Island Frommer s Portable Maui Frommer s Kauai Frommer s Hawaii with Kids Frommer s Maui & Lanai Day by Day Frommer s Honolulu Day by Day Hawaii For Dummies

9 Frommer s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Fun Fact Kids Moments Overrated Tips Value Special finds those places only insiders know about Fun facts details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Special moments those experiences that memories are made of Places or experiences not worth your time or money Insider tips great ways to save time and money Great values where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other popular features include: Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

10 What s New in Hawaii Big, big changes are hitting the travel industry, especially in Hawaii, as this book goes to press. Airlines are shutting down, charging a premium for window and aisle seats, or imposing fees for a second bag; hotel prices are rising; and the cost of gas (especially in Hawaii) has skyrocketed. But in my experience, travelers are people who want to experience a new place and culture. They want to live it, breathe it, and incorporate these experiences into their lives to make them richer and fuller. Travelers travel. Period. So despite the woes of the airlines, and regardless of the increase in prices, nothing stops this breed from living life. And generally, such travelers are Frommer s readers. Here s where I come in: This guide lets you in on how to get the most out of your travel dollar, how to make the most out of your limited time, and how to experience the Hawaii of your dreams. PLANNING YOUR TRIP In 2008, both Aloha Airlines and ATA Airlines shut down, taking 16% of the seats from the U.S. mainland to Hawaii out of the market (not to worry, other air carriers are replacing those seats as fast as they can) and leaving nearly 1,000 fewer seats a week in the interisland market. Just as Aloha Airlines was closing, another mode of transportation was opening. At press time, the Hawaii Superferry (& 877/HI-FERRY; www. hawaiisuperferry.com), after a few stumbling starts, had just begun interisland service between Honolulu and Maui, with plans to add service between Honolulu and Kauai and between Honolulu and the Big Island (see p. 64 for details). Although not as fast as the 30-minute interisland flights (the Superferry takes 3 hr. from Honolulu to Maui, about 3 hr. from Honolulu to Kauai, and 4 hr. to the Big Island), and at slightly higher ticket prices, the Superferry does offer the option of taking a vehicle interisland. However, if you re prone to seasickness, the Superferry may not be for you, especially in the winter months of November through March, when big ocean swells and strong winds move into Hawaii s waters. OAHU WHERE TO STAY As we went to press, three counties in Hawaii Honolulu, Maui, and Kauai were still debating a bed-and-breakfast ordinance. One version would allow more B&Bs, while another would allow fewer. The debate rages on. Waikiki has undergone big changes since the last edition of this book. The Outrigger has completed its $500-million-plus Waikiki Beach Walk (p. 131), which has triggered a host of renovations, upgrading, and rebranding of other properties in Waikiki. Over the next few years, the world-famous resort area will be even more beautiful, with more upscale properties. Note that in the past, when a property underwent renovation, management usually kept the resort open and did as much

11 2 WHAT S NEW as possible to mitigate the impact on guests. This appears to be changing. Several resorts are now closing their doors during major renovations. Be sure to ask when you book if your hotel has any plans for renovations or closures around the time of your stay. See It s Not Your Father s Waikiki (p. 124) for the latest news on Hilton, Aqua, and Starwood renovations and upgrades in Waikiki. One of the new properties coming to Waikiki is the Trump International Hotel, estimated to open in When the hotel-condominium went on sale in December 2006, every one of the 460 luxury units sold out within just a few hours. The ultra-upscale property will have hotel suites available and offer 24-hour concierge and room service. Other amenities will include a lobby bar, cafe, outdoor pool, private fitness center, and separate lobbies for hotel guests and residents. WHERE TO DINE A recent trend in Honolulu is to get the diners closer to the source of food featured in their meals. An example of this is Nico s at Pier 38 (p. 165), a small bistro specializing in fresh fish, located right on the docks where the fishing boats are moored. You can t get any closer than that. ORIENTATION TOURS If you re up for a really different take on Honolulu and the island, contact Oahu Ghost Tours (p. 203), which offers a look at the supernatural side of this ancient place. Its 2-mile walking tour explores places where supernatural events are still happening today, while the 4-hour driving tour visits the island s most haunted locations. SHOPPING It s impressive what $84 million in renovations will get you: A new, larger, more upscale Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center (p. 245) opened in Waikiki in The 293,000-squarefoot open-air mall is now 17,000 square feet larger than before, with 110 stores, restaurants, and entertainment on four levels and even a garden grove of 70 coconut trees. The $15-million theater boasts moving stages and acrobatic rigging; after the show, half of the seating retracts to create a nightclub that can hold up to 1,000 people. One of the anchors here is the 30,000-square-foot Hilo Hattie flagship, and the luxury boutiques include Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Fendi, Hermès, and more. NIGHTLIFE Since the last edition of this book, some of Hawaii s top entertainers have passed on, among them Don Ho, Genoa Keawe, and Nona Beamer, leaving big shoes to fill in the Waikiki nightlife scene. THE BIG ISLAND WHERE TO STAY The grande dame and first resort on the Big Island, the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (p. 274), reopened in 2008 after extensive renovations due to the 2006 earthquake. SEEING THE SIGHTS Madame Pele, the volcano goddess, has done it again. In addition to the nearly continuous eruption (since Jan 3, 1983) on the side of Mauna Loa from the Kilauea vent, in 2008 she erupted from the main Halemaumau Crater in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. This was a very different volcano eruption: While past eruptions generally consisted of curtains of fire, with lava shooting several hundred feet into the air and then slowly rolling down the side of the volcano into the ocean, the 2008 eruption from Halemaumau made the earth shake, threw rocks (some the size of Volkswagens) into the air, and spit a pink ash into the sky that rained back to earth, covering nearby communities. The recent episode also raised the level of hazardous sulfur dioxide, prompting the County of Hawaii s Civil Defense Department to put out a brochure (available at hawaii.hi.us/cd/emissions_brochure.pdf) on the color-coded warning system of how safe it is to venture into the park to view the volcano. The county also put out

12 WHAT S NEW 3 a lava-viewing safety card ( info.us/kalapanasafetyinsert.pdf), which should be read before you decide to take this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the earth being created. You can also get the latest information on the volcano eruption at the U.S. Geological Survey s Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website, php. Live and, more important, eat like the locals do with Home Tours Hawaii (p. 328), featuring chef Ann Sutherland, who was born, raised, and earned her sterling reputation as a gourmet chef in Hawaii. In addition to visiting various private homes in the Kona region (from an upscale town house on the ocean to a hand-made cottage in the middle of a coffee plantation to a luxury, manicured estate), you get to eat a progressive brunch, prepared using local products, at each home you tour. At the end of the excursion, you even get a gift bag of local products to take home with you. MAUI Although Maui s volcano, Haleakala, is not erupting, there are changes afoot here. The national park is continuing its evaluation of the impact of commercial downhill bicycle rides inside the park. As we went to press, the five bicycle companies that have downhill tour permits will be allowed to continue their operations inside the park, while the remaining operators must simply start their tours outside the park to prepare to ride down the mountain. Be sure to check with the tour operator when you book ask whether the downhill tour actually starts inside or outside the park. For more on biking in the park, see p MOLOKAI After the demise of Aloha Airlines and ATA Airlines, the next giant closure of the year came when Molokai Ranch, owner of a third of the island and the largest employer on Molokai, shut down all operations: cattle ranching, the Lodge at Molokai Ranch, the Beach Village at Molokai Ranch, its restaurants, and a few shops in Maunaloa, leaving the planned community looking like a ghost town. However, Molokai Ranch and its operations were just one aspect of the most Hawaiian island, which is still as beautiful as ever and still beckons to those looking for a cultural experience, stepping back in time to old Hawaii. LANAI In addition to the Four Seasons taking over the management of the Lodge at Koele and the Manele Bay resorts, the other big change on Lanai is that renowned Maui chef Bev Gannon has redesigned the menu at the new Lanai City Grille (p. 531), located in the Hotel Lanai. The menu focuses on whatever is in season and fresh that day, with fish, seafood, meats, and rotisserie chicken among the offerings.

13 1 The Best of Hawaii There s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-pacific islands. The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really does exist. Here you ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and soaring volcanoes. And oh, those beaches gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The possibilities for adventure and relaxation are endless. Each of the six main islands is separate, distinct, and infinitely complex. There s far too much to see and do on any 2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year after year. Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. If you re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps selling shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cellophane-skirted hula dancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get on that free snorkeling trip. That s where this guide comes in. As a Hawaii resident, I can tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book will steer you away from the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced and toward the best Hawaii has to offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will help ensure that every dollar is well spent. 1 The Best Beaches Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gorgeous to be real, this stretch along the Windward Coast is one of Hawaii s postcard-perfect beaches a mile of golden sand as soft as powdered sugar bordering translucent turquoise waters. The waters are calm yearround and excellent for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. Two tiny offshore islands complete the picture, functioning not only as scenic backdrops, but also as bird sanctuaries. See p Hapuna Beach (Big Island): This half-mile-long crescent regularly wins kudos in the world s top travel magazines as the most beautiful beach in Hawaii some consider it one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. One look and you ll see why: Perfect cream-colored sand slopes down to crystal-clear waters that are great for swimming, snorkeling, and bodysurfing in summer; come winter, waves thunder in like stampeding horses. The facilities for picnicking and camping are top-notch, and there s plenty of parking. See p Kapalua Beach (Maui): On an island with many great beaches, Kapalua takes the prize. This golden crescent with swaying palms is protected from strong winds and currents by two outstretched lava-rock promontories. Its calm waters are perfect for snorkeling, swimming, and kayaking. Facilities

14 THE BEST BEACHES 5 The Hawaiian Islands 160 W Hanalei Princeville 159 W 158 W 157 W 156 W 155 W NIIHAU KAUAI OAHU Kauai a C Channel n Poipu Lihue Channel Kaulakahi 22 N Puuwai Haleiwa Pearl Harbor P A C I F I C O C E A N Kaunakakai LANAI MOLOKAI KAHOOLAWE AWE Pailolo Channel Kaiwi Channel 21 N Makaha Laie Honolulu Kailua Waikiki MAUI Auau Channel Channel Kalohi Lanai City Kaanapali Alenuihaha h a Channel n l Kealaikahiki Channel Fiji Tonga Honolulu Honolulu Los Angeles Hawaii 2,556 miles Cook Islands Easter Island P A C I F I C O C E A N Lahaina Kihei Kahului Haleakala National Park Keahole Point Kailua-Kona Captain Cook Hana Hawi km Waimea Mauna Kea Mauna Loa HAWAII The Big Island Hilo 50 mi Kilauea Crater Hawaii Volcanoes National Park 19 N 160 W 159 W 158 W 157 W 156 W Ka Lae (South Point) 155 W 22 N 21 N 20 N 19 N UNITED STATES INTERNATIONAL DATE LINE JAPAN Honolulu Tokyo 3,862 miles Honolulu Sydney 5,065 miles Equator AUSTRALIA Sydney New Zealand Samoa Islands Tahiti Los Angeles Honolulu Mexico City 3,791 miles P A C I F I C O C E A N Airport Mountain

15 6 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF HAWAII include showers, restrooms, and lifeguards. See p Papohaku Beach (Molokai): These gold sands stretch on for some 3 miles (it s one of Hawaii s longest beaches) and are about as wide as a football field. Offshore the ocean churns mightily in winter, but the waves die down in summer, making the calm waters inviting for swimming. It s also great for picnicking, walking, and watching sunsets. See p Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): This golden, palm-fringed beach off the south coast of Lanai gently slopes down to the azure waters of a Marine Life Conservation District, where clouds of tropical fish flourish and spinner dolphins come to play. A tide pool in the lava rocks defines one side of the bay, while the other is lorded 2 The Best Island Experiences Hitting the Beach: A beach is a beach is a beach, right? Not in Hawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, and reefs, plus a general coastline of 750 miles, Hawaii has beaches in all different shapes, sizes, and colors, including black. The variety on the six major islands is astonishing; you could go to a different beach every day for years and still not see them all. For the best of a spectacular bunch, see The Best Beaches, above. Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin, and snorkel to explore Hawaii s magical underwater world, where exotic corals and kaleidoscopic clouds of tropical fish await you a sea turtle may even come over to check you out. Can t swim? That s no excuse take one of the many submarine tours offered by Atlantis Submarines (& 800/ ; com) on Oahu, the Big Island, and Maui. Check out the Watersports over by the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay, which sits prominently on the hill above. Offshore you ll find good swimming, snorkeling, and diving; onshore there s a full complement of beach facilities, from restrooms to camping areas. See p Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed by verdant cliffs, this curvaceous North Shore beach has starred as Paradise in many a movie. It s easy to see why Hollywood loves Haena Beach, with its grainy golden sand and translucent turquoise waters. Summer months bring calm waters for swimming and snorkeling; winter brings mighty waves for surfers. There are plenty of facilities on hand, including picnic tables, restrooms, and showers. See p section in each island chapter for more information on all these underwater adventures. Meeting Local Folks: If you go to Hawaii and see only people like the ones back home, you might as well not have come. Extend yourself leave your hotel, go out and meet the locals, and learn about Hawaii and its people. Just smile and say Owzit? which means How is it? ( It s good, is the usual response) and you re on your way to making a new friend. Hawaii is remarkably cosmopolitan; every ethnic group in the world seems to be represented here. There s a huge diversity of food, culture, language, and customs. Feeling History Come Alive at Pearl Harbor (Oahu): The United States could turn its back on World War II no longer after December 7, 1941, when Japanese warplanes bombed Pearl Harbor. Standing on

16 THE BEST ISLAND EXPERIENCES 7 the deck of the USS Arizona Memorial (& 808/ ; gov/usar) the eternal tomb for the 1,177 sailors and Marines trapped below when the battleship sank in just 9 minutes is a moving experience you ll never forget. Also in Pearl Harbor, you can visit the USS Missouri Memorial, where World War II came to an end. The Japanese signed their surrender on the deck of this 58,000-ton battleship on September 2, See p Watching for Whales: If you happen to be in Hawaii during humpbackwhale season (roughly Dec Apr), don t miss the opportunity to see these gentle giants. A host of boats from small inflatables to high-tech, high-speed sailing catamarans offer a range of whale-watching cruises on every island. One of my favorites is along the Big Island s Kona Coast, where Captain Dan McSweeney s Year-Round Whale-Watching Adventures (& 808/ ; www. ilovewhales.com) takes you right to the whales year-round (pilot, sperm, false killer, melon-headed, pygmy killer, and beaked whales call Hawaii home even when humpbacks aren t in residence). A whale researcher for more than 25 years, Captain Dan frequently drops an underwater microphone or video camera into the depths so you can listen to whale songs and maybe even see what s going on. See p Creeping up to the Ooze (Big Island): Kilauea volcano has been adding land to the Big Island continuously since In 2007, the volcano goddess Pele blew smoke and plumage into the air from the main crater of Halemaumau. If conditions are right, you can walk up to the redhot lava and see it ooze along, or you can stand at the shoreline and watch with awe as 2,000 F (1,092 C) molten fire pours into the ocean. You can also take to the air in a helicopter and see the volcano goddess s work from above. See p Going Big-Game Fishing off the Kona Coast (Big Island): Don t pass up the opportunity to try your luck in the sportfishing capital of the world, where 1,000-pound marlin are taken from the sea just about every month of the year. Not looking to set a world record? Kona s charter-boat captains specialize in conservation and will be glad to tag any fish you angle, and then let it go so someone else can have the fun of fighting a big-game fish tomorrow. See p Greeting the Rising Sun from atop Haleakala (Maui): Bundle up in warm clothing, fill a thermos full of hot java, and drive up to the summit to watch the sky turn from inky black to muted charcoal as a small sliver of orange light forms on the horizon. There s something about standing at 10,000 feet, breathing in the rarefied air, and watching the first rays of sun streak across the sky. This is a mystical experience of the first magnitude. See p Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa (Molokai): If you have only a day to spend on Molokai, spend it on a mule. The trek from topside Molokai to Kalaupapa National Historical Park (Father Damien s world-famous leper colony) with Molokai Mule Ride (& 800/ ; com) is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The cliffs are taller than 300- story skyscrapers, but Buzzy Sproat s surefooted mules go up and down the narrow 3-mile trail daily, rain or shine, and he s never lost a rider or a mount on the 26 switchbacks. Even if you can t afford to mule or helicopter in, don t pass up the opportunity to

17 8 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF HAWAII see this hauntingly beautiful peninsula. If you re in good shape and brought hiking boots with you, you can get a permit (available at the trail head) and hike down the trail. The views are breathtaking: You ll see the world s highest sea cliffs and waterfalls plunging thousands of feet into the ocean. See p Taking a Day Trip to Lanai (from Maui): If you d like to visit Lanai but have only a day to spare, consider taking a day trip. Trilogy (& 888/ MAUI-800; offers an all-day sailing, snorkeling, and whale-watching adventure. Trilogy is the only outfitter with rights to Hulopoe Beach, and the trip includes a minivan tour of the little isle 3 The Best of Natural Hawaii Volcanoes: The entire island chain is made of volcanoes; don t miss the opportunity to see one. On Oahu, the entire family can hike to the top of ancient, world-famous Diamond Head (p. 190). At the other end of the spectrum is fire-breathing Kilauea at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, on the Big Island, where you can get an up-close-and-personal experience with the red-hot lava ooze (p. 344). On Maui, Haleakala National Park provides a bird s-eye view into a longdormant volcanic crater (p. 464). Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls thundering downward into sparkling freshwater pools are some of Hawaii s most beautiful natural wonders. If you re on the Big Island, stop by Rainbow Falls (p. 344), in Hilo, or the spectacular 442-foot Akaka Falls (p. 337), just outside Hilo. On Maui, the Road to Hana offers numerous viewing opportunities; at the end of the drive, you ll find Oheo Gulch (also known as the Seven Sacred (pop. 3,500). You can also take Expeditions Lahaina/Lanai Passenger Ferry (& 808/ ; from Maui to Lanai, and then rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle from Dollar Rent-A-Car (& 800/ ) for a day of backcountry exploring and beach fun. See p Soaring over the Na Pali Coast (Kauai): This is the only way to see the spectacular, surreal beauty of Kauai. Your helicopter will dip low over razor-thin cliffs, fluttering past sparkling waterfalls and swooping down into the canyons and valleys of the fabled Na Pali Coast. The only problem is that there s too much beauty to absorb, and it all goes by in a rush. See p Pools), with some of the most dramatic and accessible waterfalls on the islands (p. 473). Kauai is loaded with waterfalls, especially along the North Shore and in the Wailua area, where you ll find 40-foot Opaekaa Falls (p. 618), probably the best-looking drive-up waterfall on Kauai. With scenic mountain peaks in the background and a restored Hawaiian village on the nearby riverbanks, the Opaekaa Falls are what the touristbureau folks call an eye-popping photo op. Gardens: The islands are redolent with the sweet scent of flowers. For a glimpse of the full breadth and beauty of Hawaii s spectacular range of tropical flora, we suggest spending an afternoon at a lush garden. On Oahu, amid the high-rises of downtown Honolulu, the leafy oasis of Foster Botanical Garden (p. 211) showcases 26 native Hawaiian trees and the last stand of several rare trees, including an East African, whose

18 THE BEST OF UNDERWATER HAWAII 9 white flowers bloom only at night. On the Big Island, Liliuokalani Gardens (p. 342), the largest formal Japanese garden this side of Tokyo, resembles a postcard from Asia, with bonsai, carp ponds, pagodas, and even a moon-gate bridge. At Maui s Kula Botanical Garden (p. 468), you can take a leisurely self-guided stroll through more than 700 native and exotic plants, including orchids, proteas, and bromeliads. On lush Kauai, Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens (p. 620), on some 240 acres, is sprinkled with around 70 life-size (some larger-than-life-size) whimsical bronze statues, hidden off the beaten path of the North Shore. Marine Life Conservation Areas: Nine underwater parks are spread across Hawaii, most notably Waikiki Beach (p. 177) and Hanauma Bay (p. 177), on Oahu; Kealakekua Bay (p. 315), on the Big Island; Molokini, just off the coast of Maui (see Watersports in chapter 7); and Lanai s Manele and Hulopoe bays (p. 534). Be sure to bring snorkel gear to at least one of these wonderful places during your vacation. Garden of the Gods (Lanai): Out on Lanai s north shore lies the ultimate rock garden: a rugged, barren, beautiful place full of rocks strewn by volcanic forces and molded by the elements into a variety of shapes and colors brilliant reds, oranges, ochers, and yellows. Scientists use phrases such as ongoing posterosional event or plain and simple badlands to describe the desolate, windswept place. The ancient Hawaiians, however, considered the Garden of the Gods to be an entirely supernatural phenomenon. Natural badlands or mystical garden? Take a four-wheeldrive trip out here and decide for yourself. See p Waimea Canyon (Kauai): This valley, known for its reddish lava beds, reminds everyone who sees it of Arizona s Grand Canyon. Kauai s version is bursting with ever-changing color, just like its namesake, but it s smaller only a mile wide, 3,567 feet deep, and 12 miles long. All this grandeur was caused by a massive earthquake that sent all the streams flowing into a single river, which then carved this picturesque canyon. You can stop by the road and look at it, hike down into it, or swoop through it by helicopter. See p The Best of Underwater Hawaii Hanauma Bay (Oahu): It can get to enter Witch s Brew, a turbulent crowded, but for clear, warm, calm cove. See p waters; an abundance of fish that are Kahaluu Beach (Big Island): The so friendly they ll swim right up to calm, shallow waters of Kahaluu are your face mask; a beautiful setting; perfect for beginning snorkelers or and easy access, there s no place like those who are unsure of their swimming abilities and want the comfort of Hanauma Bay. Just wade in waistdeep and look down to see more than being able to stand up at any time. 50 species of reef and inshore fish. The sunlight through the shallow Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow inner waters casts a dazzling spotlight on the bay it s like swimming in an outdoor aquarium. Serious divers shoot If you listen closely, you can actually colorful sea life and coral formations. the slot, a passage through the reef, hear the parrotfish feeding. See p. 306.

19 10 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF HAWAII Kealakekua Bay (Big Island): Milewide Kealakekua Bay, at the foot of massive U-shaped sea cliffs, is rich with marine life, snorkelers, and history. A white obelisk marks the spot where, in 1778, the great British navigator Capt. James Cook, who charted most of the Pacific, was killed by Hawaiians. The bay itself is a marine sanctuary that teems with schools of polychromatic tropical fish. See p Molokini (Maui): The islet of Molokini is shaped like a crescent moon that fell from the sky. Its shallow concave side serves as a sheltering backstop against sea currents for tiny tropical fish; its opposite side is a deepwater cliff inhabited by spiny lobsters, moray eels, and white-tipped 5 The Best Golf Courses Mauna Kea & Hapuna Golf Courses (Big Island; & 808/ for Mauna Kea Golf Course, & 808/ for Hapuna Golf Course): The Mauna Kea Golf Course, located out on the Kohala Coast, is everyone s old favorite. One of the first fields of play to be carved out of the black lava, the dramatic, always-challenging, par-72, 18-hole championship course is still one of Hawaii s top three. The Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay designed Hapuna Golf Course rests in the rolling foothills above Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel and provides a memorable links-style golf experience along with one of the best views of this unusual coast. See p Mauna Lani Francis H. I i Brown Championship Courses (Big Island; & 808/ ): Mauna Lani s two resort courses, North and South, feature a combination of oceanfront and interior lava-lined holes; both offer wonderful scenery accompanied sharks. Neophyte snorkelers should report to the concave side, experienced scuba divers the other. The clear water and abundant marine life make this islet off the Makena coast one of Hawaii s most popular dive spots, so expect crowds. See Watersports in chapter 7. Kee Beach (Kauai): Where the road ends on the North Shore, you ll find a dandy little reddish-gold beach almost too beautiful to be real. It borders a reef-protected cove at the foot of fluted volcanic cliffs. Swimming and snorkeling are safe inside the reef, where long-nosed butterfly fish flitter about and schools of taape (bluestripe snapper) swarm over the coral. See p by strategic, championship-level golf. See p Kapalua Resort (Maui; & 877/ KAPALUA): Kapalua is probably the best nationally known golf resort in Hawaii, thanks to the PGA Mercedes Championship played here each January. The Bay and Village courses are vintage Arnold Palmer designs; the Plantation Course is a strong Ben Crenshaw/Bill Coore design. See p Wailea Golf Club (Maui; & 808/ ): On Maui s sunbaked south shore stands Wailea Resort, the hot spot for golf in the islands. Three resort courses complement a string of beachfront hotels: The Blue Course is an Arthur Jack Snyder design, while Robert Trent Jones, Jr., is the mastermind behind the Emerald and Gold courses. All three boast outstanding views of the Pacific and the mid- Hawaiian islands. See p The Lanai Courses (Lanai): For quality and seclusion, nothing in

20 THE BEST WAYS TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN HAWAIIAN CULTURE 11 Hawaii can touch Lanai s two resort offerings. The Experience at Koele, designed by Ted Robinson and Greg Norman, and the Challenge at Manele, a wonderful Jack Nicklaus effort with ocean views from every hole, both rate among Hawaii s best courses. See p Poipu Bay Golf Course (Kauai; & 808/ ): On Kauai s flat, dry south shore is a 210-acre, linksstyle course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The course, which for years hosted the PGA Grand Slam of Golf, is not only scenically spectacular, but also a lot of fun to play. A flock of native Hawaiian nene geese frequents the course s lakes, and you can often see whales, monk seals, and green sea turtles along the shore. See p Princeville Golf Club (Kauai; & 800/ ): Here you ll find 45 of the best tropical holes of golf in the world, all the work of Robert Trent Jones, Jr. They range along green bluffs below sharp mountain peaks and offer stunning views in every direction. The 18-hole Prince Course, one of the top three courses in Hawaii, provides a round of golf few ever forget among 390 acres of scenic tableland bisected by tropical jungles, waterfalls, streams, and ravines. See p The Best Ways to Immerse Yourself in Hawaiian Culture Experiencing the Hula: For a real, Park, next to the canal, and watch authentic hula experience on Oahu, this ancient sport come to life. check out the Bishop Museum Attending a Hawaiian-Language (p. 203), which has excellent performances on weekdays, or head to Church (& 808/ ) is the Church Service (Oahu): Kawaiahao the Halekulani s House Without a Westminster Abbey of Hawaii. The Key (p. 126) at sunset to watch the vestibule is lined with portraits of the enchanting Kanoelehua Miller dance Hawaiian monarchy, many of whom beautiful hula under a century-old were crowned in this very building. kiawe tree. The first week after Easter The coral church is a perfect setting in brings Hawaii s biggest and most which to experience an all-hawaiian prestigious hula extravaganza, the service, held every Sunday at 9am, Merrie Monarch Hula Festival complete with Hawaiian song. Admission is free; let your conscience be your (p. 365), in Hilo on the Big Island; tickets sell out by January 30, so guide as to a donation. See p reserve early. In May, Molokai holds Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu): the Ka Hula Piko Festival (p. 508) There s actually a host of cultural at Papohaku Beach Park, a wonderful sights and experiences to be had daylong affair that celebrates the hula in Honolulu s Chinatown. Wander on the island where it was born. through this several-square-block area Watching the Ancient Hawaiian with its jumble of exotic shops offering herbs, Chinese groceries, and Sport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu): From February to September, on acupuncture services. Before you weekday evenings and weekend days, leave, be sure to check out the lei sellers on Maunakea Street (near N. hundreds of canoe paddlers gather at Ala Wai Canal and practice the Hotel St.), where Hawaii s finest leis Hawaiian sport of canoe paddling. go for as little as $5. If you d like a little guidance, you can follow the Find a comfortable spot at Ala Wai walking tour on p. 215.