Shapewear and swimwear from Colombia. Tailored intelligence: introduction and methodology. Rupa Ganguli & Bart Slob
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1 Shapewear and swimwear from Colombia Tailored intelligence: introduction and methodology Rupa Ganguli & Bart Slob August
2 Introduction and methodology Introduction The research team was tasked with preparing tailored market intelligence for Colombian shapewear and swimwear brands keen to enter the EU market. This study has been conducted specifically on the identified markets: France, Germany, Italy, Spain and UK for the specific product categories of Shapewear and Swimwear brands. In particular, research has been conducted on: 1. France: Swimwear and Shapewear 2. Germany: Swimwear and Shapewear 3. Italy: Shapewear 4. Spain: Swimwear and Shapewear 5. UK: Swimwear The research has been aimed at providing Colombian brands with specific understanding of how to enter the identified target market. Each country chapter is segmented into the key modules: 1. Market analysis 2. Buyer requirements 3. Doing business To make the chapters easier to understand and to keep it specific to the target markets, the report has been segmented by country. This will help the Colombian brand to pick the specific country they are keen to target and read about all the different points related to the country. Some details and requirements such as key legislative requirements remain constant across countries while specific elements related to market analysis, buyer requirements and doing business change across countries in the EU based on various elements such as cultural and demographic differences amongst others. Swimwear and shapewear are related categories and in many cases have similar buying seasons and patterns. These are reflected where relevant in the specific modules and countries. Colombia as a country would find it advantageous to combine their market access activities for both categories while accessing specific markets in Europe. This would potentially provide Colombia with a stronger presence and more concrete offer overall in Europe. Methodology Research process The research process was kick-started with a multistakeholder call hosted and organised by the CBI team, with participation from the research team, the national institutions: Pro Colombia and Inexmoda as well as the sector consultant for the CBI garments programme for Colombia. The call helped clarify some key points: 2
3 in relation to the selection and challenges involved in the selection of HS codes, the clarification that the study was aimed at market entry for Colombian brands as compared to private label manufacturers. that the supply side information would be provided by Colombia and that this did not have to form part of the main research. that the study should focus on womenswear as compared to mens and childrenswear. that information would be gathered from specific locations in the identified countries, as this would then help determine the sample for the research (particularly for qualitative research elements). that the study should not focus too much on macro elements, as this was already covered by earlier studies. The key requirement was to gain how to or what to do as brands trying to enter the EU market. We have undertaken the following steps: Step 1: Inception report Step 2: Desk research Step 3: Primary research and interviews / information gathering Step 4: Analysis and drafting Methods The research was carried out using two key methods: 1. Desk research This focused on gathering information and conducting a review of existing material from journals such as IBISWorld, Euromonitor International, Mintel, Just-style, Textiles Intelligence, WWD, Verdict Retail, Europa DG trade, Gov.uk and other such information sites. A review of relevant blogs and articles and posts on social media such as Pinterest, Facebook, Twitter, Linked In as well as information from newspaper / magazines, trade fair flyers etc. have been consulted. 2. Primary data gathering This focused on complementing desk research by speaking with professionals in the industry as well as visiting stores / online sites and speaking with customers / trade specialists over the phone / Skype / and in person. Contents The report is divided into three main parts: Part 1: Introduction and Colombian sector background A snapshot of the Colombian shapewear and swimwear industry is provided in this chapter to provide a brief background to the overall study. This information has been provided by the national institutions in Colombia: ProColombia and This provides an understanding of the industry structure and size and provides a context to the next set of chapters. Part 2: Demand side: growing trends in EU and strategic options for Colombian suppliers It starts with providing an overview of the retail sector and the relevance of shapewear and swimwear in Europe. It highlights key developments such as e commerce, mobile commerce, mixed retail 3
4 channels and the highly emerging relevance and critical requirements of compliance and CSR across the EU. It finally offers a checklist and a comparison of strategic options for Colombian suppliers. Part 3: Country chapters This is the core of the study. The chapters are divided by country with specific information catered to each of the categories (shapewear and swimwear) as relevant. An overall market analysis is provided at the beginning of each country chapter. This is then divided into specific characteristics of each segment. The next part of the country chapter focuses on buyer requirements and doing business. References are provided in the bibliography at the end of the report. This is followed by the Annex, which provides additional and supporting information for specific parts of the chapters including screen shots and examples of interview questions and s. The report is aimed at providing Colombian brands (both emerging and established) with an understanding of what and where there is an opportunity what are the challenges or potential threats and how to get into the EU market by offering practical steps and suggestions. This report has been written from a practical market driven perspective and should not be viewed as a paper written for an academic journal. Categorisation Shapewear and swimwear are related products and share several market entry characteristics. They are also beginning to be seen in similar trade shows. Eg. Brands which were pure lingerie players are now moving into shapewear and also moving into athleisure wear and swimwear. The same applies to sportswear brands which are moving closer and closer into shapewear. So many of the market players and points of sale are similar. However, price points, styling, design and specific details will differ. Table 1: Relation between product categories Table 1 provides an understanding of how the market is evolving in these two categories and the reason for the combined approach: Type 2: Swimwear Type1: Lingerie Type 3: Active Sportswear Type 4: Shapewear 4
5 Type 1: companies, which started with lingerie and have started moving into shapewear, swimwear and most lately into sportswear as an evolution from shapewear and swimwear Type 2: companies which started as swimwear and have started moving into the lingerie area and sportswear to add other sports and active wear products as well as shapewear Type 3: companies which started as purely sportswear companies / brands which in most cases included swimwear (functional) and moved into shapewear but very few into lingerie (more focused on sports bras and other products which are sportier as compared to lingerie) Type 4: companies which started out as purely shapewear brands and have now started evolving to offer lingerie (shapewear included), swimwear and sportswear. But the leading element in shapewear and body shaping It should of course be noted that there are pure players in each of the categories who focus on the specific category only. However, it is likely the same points of sale and agents stock and work with both product categories. Use of HS codes Some assumptions were made in relation to HS codes (information on Colombian data provided by Pro Colombia) for the sake of categorisation. HS codes for swimwear Women's or Girls' Swimwear, of Synthetic Fibres, Knitted or Women's Swimwear, of Other Textile Materials, Knitted or Women's or Girls' Swimwear HS codes for shapewear Slips and petticoats made of cotton, man-made or other textile materials Underwear made of cotton, man-made or other textile materials Brassieres Girdles and Panty-girdles Corsets Corsets, Braces, Suspenders, Garters and Similar Articles and Parts Panty Hose, Tights, of Synthetic Fibres, Single Yarn Less than 67 Decitex Panty Hose, Tights, of Synthetic Fibres, Single Yarn 67 Decitex or More Panty Hose, Tights, of Other Textile Materials, Knitted or Women's Full-length or Knee-length Hosiery, Knitted or 5
6 Stockings, Socks, of Wool or Fine Animal Hair, Knitted or Stockings, Socks, of Cotton, Knitted or Stockings, Socks, of Synthetic Fibres, Knitted or Stockings, Socks, of Other Textile Materials, Knitted or Shapewear does not have a specific code in the HS coding system and it is included mainly in category 6212 and 6115, sometimes depending on the type of shapewear, especially if it is an activewear / yogawear product, this could also be categorised together with tights and stockings. So, it is still a challenge to assess exactly how much trade is taking place in these specific categories. All statistics and data on Colombian export figures is provided by ProColombia and / or Other details Although the research focuses on the EU market, some information on market opportunities in growing and emerging economies is briefly discussed in Part 3. This has been included as the ultimate aim of the report is to provide market opportunities for Colombian brands offering swimwear and shapewear products. The specific markets and product categories in the report are: France: Shapewear and Swimwear Germany: Shapewear and Swimwear Italy: Shapewear Spain: Shapewear and Swimwear UK: Swimwear Recommendations and suggestions for future research Based on the research conducted, it appears that the mix for the market entry could have been focussed in this manner: France: Swimwear (as shapewear is highly blurred into lingerie) Germany: Shapewear and Swimwear Italy: Swimwear (as shapewear is not yet a growing market segment by itself, but more seen as parts of other product categories) Spain: Shapewear and Swimwear UK: Shapewear and Swimwear (as shapewear is a growing trend in the UK) This is primarily due to the type of interest and demand in the product types. However due to the blurring of lines between product categories, any variation of the above would work provided the right customers are targeted with the right product types and price points. 6
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