7526 makers plate. Back of 16¾ Wickham wheel.

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1 And other Hand Powered Rail Vehicles Railway Trike (AUS) Railway Kalamazoo (AUS) Pump Car (US,GB) Velorail (FR,GB) Hajtany (HU) Railbike (US,GB) Dresinsykling (NO) Handcar (US) Drezina [SI] Handhebeldraisine (DE) Drezina (RU) Resiina (FI) Drezyny (PL) Skinne cykel (DK) Draisines (BE) Bicilinha (BR) Dresin (NO) Biciclette Ferroviarie (IT) Spoorvegfiets (BE) Dressin (SE,NO) Dresina (SP) Schienenvelo (CH) Dreziny (CZ) Railway Jigger (NZ) Cyclo Draisine (FR) Spoorfiets (NL) Cykeldressin (SE) Ferroviarie Quadriciclo (IT) Google the black names, see what you get. No 83 For this free newsletter, contact: Or download from: Eden Valley Railway in Cumbria 7 th,8th June 2017 National Velocipede Rally 2017 date tba, North Yorkshire Moors Railway 2017date tba, 2 foot gauge: Statfold Barn Railway, June 10 th, September 9 th Invitations must be requested in advance by post using the form which can be downloaded from John Langford took this photo of a Wickham pump car at Chapel Lane, Kinnerley on the Shropshire & Montgomeryshire on Scanned and sent in by Andrew Waldron.

2 Another photo taken the same day from closer to the pump car appears on page 16 of Colonel Stephens RAILMOTORS by Stephen Garrett & John Scott Morgan. Published by Irwell Press. There is a keyway hammer (for bull head track) on the deck with the handle up through the tool holder at the side of the gallows Deck cross section. Bull Head track with wood key. The Car has an 1½ channel frame very similar (same batch?) to 7526 of We surveyed 7526, (but this channel is not available off the shelf today. builders would have to slice the top off square box section) Photo by Trevor Catterson Naked photo of channel frame pump car below. This is an inspection car, it s longer and will have seats on the far end of the deck eventually, which is why the brake handle is right on the end of the deck makers plate. Back of 16¾ Wickham wheel.

3 Wheel Base 45½, wheel diameter 16¾ of 1956

4 From Alan Frewin Have just been to Vienna and in the tramway museum found the attached. It is a type fd railway bicycle of 1935 in use until 1964 shown in its 1960 condition.

5 Inspection.

6 Jonathan Floods Photo Page All from Greece Row Boat, 3 foot? Poling Car, 3 foot? Recumbent Track Bike, Variable Gauge?

7 In answer to a question that regularly comes up about using standard gauge wheels on narrow gauge machines. Back to Back for Narrow Gauge Left. On curves the wheels tend to climb the outside rail UNLESS held back by the check rail red arrow which catches the back of the wheel flange and pulls the wheels back in the correct direction Standard gauge wheel profile with a flange of 1 5/64 With a flangeway of 1 ¾ The standard gauge wheelset (2 wheels on an axle) has a back to back of 4 5 5/8 The 2 foot narrow gauge wheelset has a back to back of 21 ½. On standard gauge, the cone angle (1 in 20) keeps the wheels running in line on straight track and the flanges ideally shouldn t be touching the inside of the rails Right. Points also have check rails light blue arrow with flangeways orange arrow, to catch the back of the flange and stop the opposite wheel going the wrong side of the crossing nose. Narrow gauge track has lighter and smaller rail than standard gauge. Flange ways (the gaps) are narrower than standard gauge. The back to back of each axle wheel set must fit the track or the wheels will jam in the pointwork flangeways or check rails. Narrow gauge wheelsets made from standard gauge wheels must have the flanges thinned down to suit The wheels illustrated below were standard gauge, the flanges were too thick. At 2 foot gauge the back to back needs to be 21½ inches so I had to cut a ring off the back of each wheel. Marking the line to be cut on a bench The line

8 I clamped a temporary axle between a bench and a trestle and slowly worked round the back of the wheel with an angle grinder with a 1mm slitting disc. You need to wear a leather welding apron or have your overalls burnt full of holes from the sparks. Wheelset with cut back flanges in use going through a 2 foot gauge point. Flangeways orange arrows. Sheffield wheels below were made for narrow gauge. Temporary axle securely clamped Summer uniform Ring cut off With squeezed flanges, white arrows rolled thinner during manufacture than the standard gauge ones

9 From Rich Harner Petrol Buda The January 1909 edition of The Signal Engineer explained how the cars worked: Pages from the 1909 Buda Catalogue more machines that killed hand power. There is nothing intricate about a Buda Velocipede Car. All you have to do is to propel the car about 25 feet with the hand lever (just as you do an ordinary speeder) then reach forward and pull back on a small lever and you re on your way. The hand lever is next thrown out of gear and automatically locked in any position desired, giving a rigid hand hold and foot rest. No cranking no pushing no leap frog. It is just the car you have been looking for. Everybody who has seen one of these cars is enthusiastic about it. The Buda Company even allowed financing of the vehicles to properly accredited signal men. The Family Car, where has the handle gone?

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12 Weld Easy I really recommend welding classes at your local college, I took them (and I am still rough but a lot better than I was). I chose stick welding and found a big old second hand oil cooled welder better (and 25) than a small new buzz box. My husband spent 250 on a trailer mounted, diesel powered 240 amp welder as a Birthday present, frightening but brilliant results. Get a Reaction Glass Helmet, they are brilliant and rescued me, (about 90 UK but worth every penny). You also get an extra hand you don t have with the lolly on a stick cheap eye shields. You look like Darth Vader but that s cool. Get an angle grinder with I mm cutting disks, (saves lots of time if you don t have a band saw), new flap wheels for cleaning off scale and rust and especially for earthing points, they are magic, Oh and get some grinding discs too. 240 volt machines burn out easily, I use 110 volt and a transformer, they are then immortal. (Not a problem in the USA). Get a really good professional bronze screw earth clamp, (bit like a G clamp). Throw any cheap crocodile earth clamps in the deepest hole you can, after flattening them with a sledge hammer, I loved the last bit, they made my life hell. Do practice dry runs on lots of scrap to warm yourself up each time you weld. Keep notes of settings that work on your test pieces, especially round bar onto flats, they are pigs. Straight runs get easier with time but small round to flat is always a horror film. Remember the only difference between a good welder and a rough one is the amount of grinding out they have to do to finish the job. Oil cooled Diesel powered