Seascape. A 32' Bayliner Sedan Motoryacht Operating Manual. Edition of June 30, 2006

Transcription

1 Seascape A 32' Bayliner Sedan Motoryacht Operating Manual Edition of June 30, 2006 Copyrighted. See notice next page Section Contents 1 Introduction & General Boat Description 2 Specifications, Capacities, & Important Numbers 3 Operating Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions 4 Specific Discussion of Boat Systems & Inventory 5 What to Do If for each Boat System Concern 6 EMERGENCY PROCEDURES 7 Index 8 Maneuvering Inboard Engine Power Boats Anacortes Yacht Charters! (360) ! (800) ! Fax (360) T Avenue, P.O. Box 69, Anacortes WA 98221! info@ayc.com

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3 Section I: Introduction & General Boat Description About This Manual Manual Objective and Limitations This manual is intended to introduce you to Seascape, its systems and features, allowing you to operate it with the confidence and self-assurance necessary to enjoy your cruising vacation to its fullest. It is not intended to replace a good basic understanding of seamanship, including navigation skills, weather interpretation or boat handling. You are expected to have an understanding of these subjects obtained through other sources, including training, seminars, reading and perhaps most important, experience. There is no way that a small manual like this one can answer every question or give you a solution to every circumstance, foreseen or unforeseen. If you have a question which limits your understanding or handling of this vessel, ask your AYC checkout skipper or contact the office for details (you might make a list of questions as you read the manual, saving them all up to ask efficiently at one time). How the Manual is Organized The tab for each section defines its general purpose as shown on the front page. You will use the Section 3, containing checklists, most of all. You should have it available so that each checklist can be used on a daily basis, even after you are familiar with the boat. Section 5, regarding Emergency Procedures, is the most important, and you should read it, but hopefully you will never need it. Read this section first to learn about this manual and the general details of your boat. The other sections will tell you most of what you need to know to enjoy your cruise to the fullest with safety and confidence. Copyright 1998, 2006 Joseph D. Coons. This manual was written for this boat s owner and Anacortes Yacht Charters of Bellingham Washington U.S.A. by Joseph D. Coons, 25 Shorewood Drive, Bellingham, WA 98225, telephone (360) All rights reserved. This manual may not be quoted, copied, or duplicated, in whole or in part, in printed or electronic form, without express written consent from the author Introduction & General Description

4 Exterior General Description of This Bayliner 32' Sedan Motoryacht The Bayliner 32' Sedan Motoryacht model 3288 is a traditional yacht design, with fiberglass hull, cabin, swim step and flybridge structures and decks, and stainless steel handrails. The window frames are aluminous with sliding glass panes and the windshield frame is of the same material. Teak coamings line the cockpit. Seascape with her cockpit canvas in place. A roomy cockpit with two hatches to access the engines is aft; under the hatches there is also some storage room. Secured behind the cockpit on the swim step is the dinghy, a 9'6" Achilles inflatable, with a four horsepower Mercury outboard motor. The dinghy is attached with Weaver Snap Davits, and the motor is carried on an outboard mount on the port corner of the transom. Seascape s cockpit, port side aft. Note the BBQ, the outboard s fuel tank, and the storage recess for boat hook and brushes, etc. Cockpit fittings include a sink and cabinet to port forward, with storage for book hook, brushes, etc., in a recessed area in the transom. A propane-fired barbecue is fitted to the port aft corner above the teak coaming. On each side deck are the two fuel fills. A holding tank pumpout deck fitting, and the water fill is also here. Forward port in cockpit. Sink and storage, ladder to flybridge. Not crab trap Introduction & General Description

5 Forward on the bow deck is the anchor windlass, allowing rode movement both up and down electrically. After passing over the winch, the chain goes below decks via a hawse pipe in the foredeck. An anchor windlass control is in the starboard salon cabinet and plugs in to a socket in the bow locker. There is a shore power connection at midships starboard selected by the shore power switch in the electric panel; when this cable is to be disconnected, the switch should first be turned to the off position to avoid arcing which could damage the plug contacts. The boat s 30-amp shore power cable is 50 feet long and stays with the boat when away from its home dock. Left: The roomy flybridge features seating for five plus the helm seat, and a full instrument panel. Note the life ring on the aft rail. Above: Aft of the seats is space for an extra chair and storage of deck accessories. Up the ladder from the cockpit is the flybridge, with seating for crew and passengers, and the upper helm station. In addition to the helm s instruments and controls, the control console has storage for the ship s canvas covers, and a space for flybridge electronics. Within the storage compartments beneath the seats you will find life jackets; under the console to port is the propane tank for the ship s stove. On the swim step the boat s dinghy is secured on Weaver Snap Davits, with the Mercury 4hp outboard stored on an outboard mount, easily moved to the dinghy s transom Introduction & General Description

6 Interior Accommodations The boat is entered by the sliding door from the cockpit to the salon. The door is fitted with a strong lock. Straight ahead of the aft sliding door is the companionway to the master stateroom down three steps. Forward of this is a U -settee to port surrounding a dining table; this settee can be made up into a double-plus size guest berth. Forward of the settee is a bar counter overlooking the galley. Across from the forward end of the settee, is the lower helm station. Aft of it along the starboard wall of the salon is the AC control panel, and aft of it a cabinet with storage for emergency gear including the first aid kit. The professional-quality helm station with electric switch and breaker panels below, and electronics panel above provides good visibility forward for operation in inclement weather. An intercom connects this station with the flybridge control station. Seascape s lower helm station. Red dots are circuit breakers \; ignition switches are behind left edge of wheel. Switches are to right if wheel; small panel above switches mounts engine room blower breakers. Looking down into aft Master Stateroom companionway just inside the sliding main door, with its king berth and washstand. Seascape salon port forward. L-settee, table, serving counter above galley. You can see the stove and microwave in the background Introduction & General Description

7 Aft lower galley. Fridge to left, three-burner stove to right, sink between. Above-galley storage. Also notice the in-counter storage hatch to left of the sink. Forward galley. One dish cabinet open. Note the drawers. (Stove cover lifts!) Another look at the starboard settee, with the bar cabinet forward of it, table opposite. TV is port aft. To port down two steps from the salon opposite the helm is the galley area. Dish storage cabinets are forward above the microwave, while glasses are aft under the serving bar. There are silverware and implement drawers. The galley has a propane stove/oven. The stove burners have a push-button igniter to light them; the oven requires manual pilot-lighting (a propane match igniter is in the galley). There is a dual-basin stainless steel sink arrangement with a single lever, hot-cold faucet. Master (Aft) Stateroom The very roomy master berth ingeniously tucks under the dinette in the salon above. The aft stateroom is often considered the Master, although this is at the discretion of the charterer. The very large berth has the expected reading lights, and a washstand makes it convenient with privacy: no need to go to the head compartment just to freshen up. Of course, this compartment is just forward of the engines, so as noted in the illustration access to the front of the port engine is thoughtfully provided. To starboard is the equipment room, discussed below. A shelf aft in the master stateroom lifts to provide access to the forward end of the port engine. The master stateroom washstand has lockers and hanging lockers beneath and alongside of it. The steps from the salon down to the master stateroom lift up to access the equipment room to starboard of the berth, under the salon Introduction & General Description

8 Forward Stateroom & Head Compartment Under the lower step from the galley to the salon is a heater run off an engine for warmth underway. Looking to port into the forward cabin. The V-berth insert (to make it a single large berth) rests on the mattress. Drawers are beneath the berth. Looking aft to port at the forward stateroom hanging bulkhead. Reading lights and the headboard provided by the bulkhead make it comfy, while the teak woodwork provides a traditional nautical feel! Forward, steps lead down from the saloon to the forward stateroom and head. The forward stateroom includes two large V-berths with an insert. There is a hanging locker with storage for coats, etc. Drawers under the berths accommodate crew clothing. Additional storage is under the mattress (not usually accessed by charterers). A large overhead hatch in addition to side opening portlights provide for plenty of light. Aft on the starboard side of the forward stateroom is a hanging locker. Lots of headroom! The head compartment is to starboard and has a sink in a builtin vanity, and a toilet. Cabinet space in the vanity and side wall allows for personal toilet items and supplies. There is also an AC outlet. Aft in the head compartment is the shower fixture. Peeking into the head compartment! Storage is above and below the sink, and a curtain allows showers from the built-in shower spray and single-lever control without dowsing the entire area Introduction & General Description

9 Equipment Compartment To port of the aft stateroom running the length of the salon under it, is an equipment compartment that is accessed by lifting the aft stateroom steps. In here is the electric/engine water heater, holding tank pump,, and other miscellaneous equipment. There is storage for a few items here and under the stateroom steps. Engine Access Looking into the equipment compartment. in foreground, water heater to right of center. Access to the engines is through the two hatches in the cockpit, although there is more (seldom-used) access to their forward end from the aft stateroom (see picture above) and through another hatch by the aft stateroom ladder in the aft bulkhead. With the hatches lifted, you simply step down into the bilges. The engines are 150hp Hino Diesels. Hino, a Japanese manufacturer, has an excellent reputation for reliability in medium-power Diesels, manufacturing them for use in light trucks and busses, and Bayliner adapted them to reliable marine use. In the engine compartment are the house batteries (left photo) and another, starting battery on the starboard side not shown. Aft in the compartment is the steering gear, while on each side are the fuel tanks. Port engine, looking through hatch. House batteries in boxes at bottom; switches are immediately above them. Coolant tank is rear left top of picture, while the oil dipstick is just to right of it. Starboard engine, looking through hatch. Note yellowhandled sea water intakes/valves for both engines left center. Coolant tank to left, dipstick by it. (Bilge was cleaned after photo taken) Introduction & General Description

10 Dinghy The boat is equipped with a four-person 9'-6" Achilles inflatable dinghy stowed on a Weaver Snap-Davits, with the 4hp Mercury outboard motor removed from the dinghy and stored on a support on the transom. The fuel tank is stowed in the cockpit never, ever below decks! Deck Equipment The boat has mooring lines; an appropriate all-purpose 30-pound Bruce anchor with 250' of chain and rope anchor rode; an electric anchor windlass, appropriate cleats, a supply of fenders/bumpers; several deck chairs, a crab pot or ring with line, float, and bait rigging; a hose for fresh water tank filling and boat washing; and a boat hook. Safety Equipment This vessel is equipped with two fire extinguishers, one in the companionway by the steps; and one above the port settee in the saloon; flares in the port settee L drawer, an appropriate supply of life jackets under the starboard forward flybridge seat; a Lifesling ring on the aft flybridge rail; a First Aid Kit in the forward head and two VHF radios. Charter Clients with children under 90 pounds should bring appropriate life jackets for them. Cockpit Storage Fire Extinguisher in Salon, starboard side just aft of helm station. A variety of equipment for the boat is in the cockpit recess in the transom and the cabinet beneath the sink, including cleaning supplies, boat hook, extra lines, boat brushes, etc Introduction & General Description

11 Specifications, Capacities & Important Numbers Seascape Vessel Name: Seascape Vessel Official Number: Vessel Registration Number: Hull ID Number N/A BLBA 30EKF192 Capacities: Sleeps four: Two in each stateroom (Recommended)... or six: With two more on convertible L-Settee Fuel: Fresh water: Holding Tank: 200 Gallons in two 100 gallon tanks 65 Gallons 23 Gallons Dimensions: Length: Beam: Draft: Displacement: 32 Feet 1 Inches 11 Feet 6 Inches 3 Feet 6 inches 13,800 Pounds (Approximate without fuel & water) Fluids: Motor Fuel: Motor Oil, mains: Transmission Oil: Engine Coolant: #2 Diesel 15W-40 Chevron Delo Multigrade 30W Chevron Delo Single Grade mix, ethylene glycol and water; corrosion inhibitor added Operating Parameters: 2000 RPM 11.0 Knots 6.0 GPH 1.8 NM/Gal 2400 RPM 12.5 Knots 9.0 GPH 1.38 NM/Gal 2700 RPM 15.0 Knots 12.0 GPH 1.25 NM/Gal Do not run engines over 2700 RPM! Specifications & Capacities & Numbers

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13 Section III: Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions OPERATING CHECKLISTS - Seascape First Thing Each Day: 9 Check engine oil, coolant. 9 Check under-engine oil pads. Okay? Q Check fuel tank levels with gauges. 9 Check holding tank. Need pumping? 9 Turn off anchor light if illuminated. Starting Engine: 9 All lines clear of propeller and on deck. Q Battery switches both On. 9 Items running on AC evaluated vis-a-vis the. 9 Throttles retarded to idle, shift levers in neutral. 9 Engine switches On, start engines in turn, port engine first: it charges the battery! 9 If engine does not turn over, see What to Do If. Leaving Dock: (Only 3-4 minute engine warmup required!] 9 Shore power switch Off. 9 Shore power cord removed, and stowed on board. 9 Step stool aboard, if used. 9 Lines removed as appropriate. 9 Fenders hauled aboard and stowed. 9 Lines and other deck gear secure/stowed. 9 Doors and hatches closed and secured as appropriate. Underway: 9 Helmsperson on watch at all times. 9 RPM under 1400 until engine warms to 140 ; RPM never to exceed 2700 RPM. 9 Wake effects always in mind. Approaching Dock: 9 Fenders out on appropriate side. 9 Bow line OUTSIDE stanchions and bloused around to midships. 9 Engine dead slow 9 Mate ready to secure stern first (in most circumstances) Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

14 At Dock in Marina: 9 Lines secure, including spring lines. 9 Step stool out, if needed. 9 Shut Down engines using Stop buttons only, then turn off switches. 9 Water heater breaker off until current settles (see s below). 9 Shore power cord connected. 9 Shore power switch On to appropriate shore power location. 9 Shore power confirmed on meters. 9 On. 9 Electric use monitored for current capacity of shore facilities. Mooring at Buoy: 9 Skipper puts starboard side gate next to buoy with mate standing by it. Q Mate loops 20' or so line, such as bow line, through buoy ring. Q Mate holds two ends together, walks up side of boat to bow of boat. Q With buoy held close to bow, line secured to each bow cleat through hawsepipe. Q Off unless in use. Mooring at Anchor: Q Anchor is lowered from pulpit while boat is backed up slowly away from anchor. Q When desired rode length out (4:1 or 5:1 scope), windlass is stopped. Q Engine reversed for count of five until chain pulls up virtually straight. Note: the boat is not held in reverse against a taught anchor chain! Q Off unless in use. Overnight Checklist in Marina: Q Shore power On. Q On. Overnight at Anchor or Buoy: Q Off to conserve batteries. Q Anchor light On. Q DC electrical items all Off including radios, extra lights, etc. Check DC monitor! Upon Arising: Q If at anchor or buoy, On only if necessary. Q Check voltmeter: If necessary, run engine to charge batteries if at anchor or buoy. Q On if shore power available. Q Turn on heat if necessary. Q Go to top of this Seascape checklist Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

15 Docking & Undocking Maneuvering Suggestions Usually it s easier to dock bow in. Have your mate at the stern, ready to step off and secure the stern line, against which you can pull to swing the bow in toward the dock. By having your mate ready to disembark when close to the dock, he/she will not have to jump to the dock, risking a turned ankle or falling overboard. It is the skipper s job to put the boat next to the dock so the mate needn t jump, but merely step off! When approaching a dock, have the fenders out as required and have the bow line already rigged, passed through its chock, and draped back on the side of the boat between the stanchions so it can be reached from the dock. Never put a line from a cleat over a rail: the boat s weight will bend or break the rail if it pulls against the line! Then, when the mate is ashore, the line can easily be reached... If dock clearance permits, spring the boat forward so that it pulls forward on the stern line. This will bring the stern close to the dock. Let the bow line out enough so that the boat can rest against the stern and midships fenders. Maneuvering in a Harbor With its twin screws, you ll do best if you center the rudder and steer with the engines only! The props are big enough that the boat will usually respond well (except in high winds) just with use of the propellers in forward and/or reverse. Take your time, and keep the boat running dead slow so that you can plan each approach. You shouldn t need to use the throttles too much; if you do, use them carefully so that you don t get going too fast! Filling The Fuel Tanks With the large fuel tanks, you can fuel the boat using a standard hose and nozzle (like the ones on auto gas pumps). Fuel each tank separately, taking the hose around the fore-or-aft deck to get to the outside fill pipe (do not drag the hose over the decks or teak handrails -- have someone help you handle it). Fill both the tanks completely but do not spill fuel! You can control the flow rate by sound, as the fill pipes make the characteristic getting-to-the-top-of-the-bottle pitch change when the fill pipes begin to fill when the tanks themselves are full. (The tank vents will gurgle before the tanks are full, so when the vents begin gurgling, slow down until you hear the fill pipes pitch change.) Fill the tanks carefully so as not to get any fuel into the waterway! Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

16 Anchoring Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are prepared. Or, if you are not ready, it can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat. Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud, or gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then, choose the spot in the anchorage where you have room to swing on the anchor without disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive boat to arrive, for the first boat has priority in the anchorage! Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we anchor a little differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example. First, except in severe weather we use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water that is 40 feet at high tide in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain and line unless the weather was to be gale force or greater winds; if very high winds are expected, it s best to find a marina! Second, because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a shore line from the stern of the boat to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart Gardens. Here is a bay that can accommodate 8-10 boats, yet it is only about 150' wide and 200' long! Boats attach their bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep cliffs overlooking the bay. Boats are thus perhaps only 15-20' apart, side to side. Third, boats often will raft side by side in busy marinas, although this is not too common. Fourth, courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them raft to the same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending upon length. The anchor rode on Seascape is 100' feet of chain followed by 150' of 5/8" nylon, and the anchor rode is marked as follows: Red stripe on chain at 50', rope rode begins at 100'. Tags on rope rode at 120', 150', 180', 210', and 240'. Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one on the bow operating the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is to be placed after checking the depth on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the bottom, by watching the chain markings, while the chain-stopper on the pulpit is held out of the way. When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the engine into reverse for 5 seconds: Eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering the anchor while drifting backwards (watch the eddies and add another burst or reverse if necessary!) until the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse for five seconds at a time until the chain starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor. A straight chain indicates a set anchor! NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never at any engine RPM other than idle! Putting the boat s weight plus its horsepower on the chain forcefully even at idle will bend the anchor and/or damage the mooring gear! If while checking the set, the chain rumbles and clunks, and seems to release in bursts, it means you're anchoring on a rocky bottom and the anchor is not holding. Be patient: It may not set on the first try, and you'll have to repeat the process sometimes to get a good "bight" on the bottom Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

17 Operating the Bimini Top The Bimini top when not open is stored folded aft. Remove the boot (cover) or bungee wrap and fold it open, then secure the forward braces in their receivers. Shore Lines When a shore line is required, anchors are set feet from shore, with the boat backing toward shore during anchor-setting. The stern line is put around a tree, and brought back to the boat. During this process, be sure to keep clear of rocks near the shore, and allow for our Northwest tides, occasionally twelve feet, and sometimes 20 feet when further north! Check the present tide, and high and low tides before beginning anchoring: No sense anchoring in 15 feet of water if you're at the "top" of a 15 foot tide! To get to the shore, you will need to have a dinghy down, and then have your mate keep the boat's stern toward shore with short bursts of reverse gear. Sometimes a helpful boater already anchored will help you by taking your line to shore for you with his dinghy, a neat "good deed" that you might reciprocate. We've met some nice boaters this way! The shore line is in the lazarette, and is long enough to usually allow taking it to a tree, around it, and back to the boat so you don't have to go ashore to untie when leaving. With a crew member keeping the boat in position, take the dinghy to shore pulling the end of the shore line with you. Pass it around a tree, and pull it back to the boat if you can, since then to get away in the morning all you have to do is release the bitter end from the boat, and pull it aboard. Pull the line tight, as long as you've got over 100' total of line out: There is plenty of sag/stretch, and we want to keep the boat in its area! If necessary, put a crab pot float or fender on the line to warn others it s there! Here is a sketch of a properly anchored boat with a shore line (in this drawing, S=Scope, which should be at least 4 x DL, the Depth at Low Tide): Checklists & Maneuvering Suggestions

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19 Section 4: Specific Discussion of Boat Systems This section of the operating manual will discuss each of the boat s systems in turn. The systems and major components discussed are grouped and in order as follows: Main Engine & Sea Strainers The Tank Tender Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor Fresh Water System; Electrical-AC, Electrical-DC, and ; Heads and Holding Tanks; Heating System; Galley Equipment Navigation Equipment, Radios, and Radar. Main Engine & Sea Strainers The main engines on the boat are 150hp Hino Diesels (turbocharged). These extraordinarilyreliable, rugged machines can be expected to give you trouble-free, very economical cruising. On engine start, no long warm-up is required! Three or four minutes is sufficient, then load the engine by putting the transmission in gear. Do not run it over 1400 RPM until the temperature gauge reads at least 140 Fahrenheit. Do not run either engine for long periods with the transmission in neutral, with no load! The engines require a regular, daily check, since once underway, you will probably not check them while in use, tucked away as they are beneath the cockpit floor. Please perform this check each morning (when the engine room is cool!):! CHECK THE OIL. The oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. The dipstick is located on the port side aft corner of each engine, and the stick has a black handle. Use a paper towel, wipe the stick, reinsert, and take a reading. The distance between the two marks is about one-and-a-half quarts. Add a quart or so at a time to bring it up above the add mark, using the oil provided on the boat. You need not keep it full! (If you need more oil, buy it! We will reimburse you.) The oil fill on the engine is a cap atop the valve cover. After adding oil, be sure to reinstall the cap, but do not over-tighten. DO NOT OVERFILL the crankcase (above the full mark), as the engine will quickly waste excessive lubricant. If oil is required often, check under the engine carefully to be sure there is no oil leak, and if there is, have it corrected promptly.! CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL. The coolant overflow tank is located on the port side Specifics: Main Engines & Sea Strainers

20 of each engine, with a cap on the top. If there is coolant in the tank, it is sufficiently full; if coolant is disappearing, determine why and watch the temperature gauges carefully!. If coolant is needed, determine if there is any sign of a coolant leak under the engine, and if there is, do not run the engine; if no leak, add coolant to the tank from the jug of pre-mixed antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor/water supplied on the boat.! VISUALLY INSPECT THE ENGINE ROOM WHENEVER YOU RE IN IT, asking yourself, Does everything look right? Look at the pads under the engines and transmission: While some drips are normal, there shouldn t ever be substantial accumulations of any fluids!! CHECK THE SEA STRAINERS ONCE A WEEK, OR IMMEDIATELY IF THE ENGINE RUNS HOT. The engine strainers are in the center of the bilge between the aft end of the engines. To check a strainer, shine a flashlight through it. While some fuzziness from trapped thin growth is normal, you should see the light clearly on the other side; if obscured, you should clean the strainer. See below.! CHECK THE TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL if a transmission shifts erratically. It is unlikely that any oil will need to be added. Be sure to check under the transmission for leaks! Low transmission oil is a serious matter. With the engine idling in neutral, remove the transmission dipstick. Wipe it with a towel, reinsert it, and take a reading. If the level is below the add mark, stop the engine, add a pint of #30-weight, single-grade oil through the plug in the top of the transmission case, and then start the engine and measure again. DO NOT OVERFILL, for to do so could cause the seals to blow out. The engine is red-lined at 3000 RPM in this level of service. Although you can run the engine at any speed after it warms up, you should limit continuous operation to 2700 RPM. RPM Gallons per hour, Total both Engines* Speed, Knots* Nautical Miles per Gallon* * Estimated RPM seems to be most comfortable, reasonably economical speed. However, the realities of vessel hull design and powerplant engineering dictate that higher RPM operation is very inefficient on semi-displacement vessels like this one, so you will find these operating specifications to be true (gallons per hour, speeds, and nautical miles/gallon are estimates): As you can see, each extra knot is very expensive once you have passed displacement speed on the vessel hull; this is not a planing boat! It is sensible to operate the boat in the RPM range, and you ll enjoy quieter, more pleasant cruising and economy, too! Specifics: Main Engines & Sea Strainers

21 Sea Strainer Cleaning and Seacocks A sea strainer provides raw water to the engine; it is located directly forward of the engine. Another protects the water used for the refrigeration and washdown systems; it is just to port of the engine s forward end. These sea strainers are secure and reliable. They protect the equipment from water-borne debris which might block internal equipment passages. If a sea strainer needs cleaning (see above regarding inspection) here is the procedure: 1) Look at the base of the strainer near the hull. On one side is a valve lever, with a relatively long handle. 2) Turn the valve lever so it is perpendicular to the sea strainer (parallel to the hull). 3) Using the same spanner you use for the fuel and water tank deck caps, unscrew the top of the sea strainer. Then remove the strainer by pulling it out the top of the assembly. Rinse the strainer thoroughly and, if necessary, remove any debris from the glass housing. 4) Reinsert the strainer, tighten the top cover with the spanner, AND TURN THE VALVE BACK ON failure to do so will overheat the engine. This entire operation will take 5-10 minutes at most, and will assure you of cool engines Specifics: Main Engines & Sea Strainers

22 Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor Dinghy The dinghy aboard this boat is an 9'-6" Achilles inflatable, designed to carry up to four passengers safely, with two sharing the seat and one on each side of the motor seated on the dinghy s pontoons. For safety, and compliance with U.S. rules, there should be a life jacket aboard the dinghy for each passenger aboard whenever the dinghy is at sea. Please be careful when pulling the dinghy ashore to minimize damage to the bottom. It can be lifted by two persons if one is on each side. Don t Ram the beach; you can bump up to the beach gently and step ashore over the bow, pulling the dinghy a little more ashore as each person off-loads. And raise the outboard before it hits bottom when landing on a beach! The dinghy will seldom require inflation as long as the valve seals are maintained and it is not punctured. To inflate, simply pump up the dinghy until it is pretty hard (thumb can deflect a tube by about ½" maximum) using the pump provided on the boat. If punctured and you feel competent to make the repair, follow the instructions in the dinghy manual and use the dinghy repair kit also on the boat; otherwise, have it professionally patched at Anacortes Yacht Charters or a dealer s. Dinghy Davit This boat has a high-quality, user-friendly Weaver Snap Davit. To use it: (1) Disconnect the struts while someone holds the dinghy with a line; (2) Lower the dingy using the rope and cleat provided above the transom.. (3) Put the motor on the dinghy, tightening the transom-clamping screws securely; (4) Unhook the dinghy from the snap-davits on the stern. (5) Load passengers, with a life jacket for each. To retrieve the dinghy on the boat, reverse the above procedure. When you are hoisting the dinghy it will help if you have someone assist you. Outboard Motor The outboard motor for the boat is a 4 horsepower Mercury four-stroke outboard, quiet and efficient. Because this outboard is a four-cycle motor you do not need to mix oil with the fuel, the motor uses regular gas only. Check the oil before use! Undo the latch at the back of the engine cover and lift the cover off. Check the dipstick; add oil to the crankcase carefully; you may need to use a funnel to add oil; do not overfill. Frankly, these engines seldom need oil! An outboard tool kit is on Seascape Specifics: Dinghy, Davit & Outboard Motor

23 Fresh Water System Tank The water tank is located in the forward bilge under the floor filled through the fill pipe on the starboard side deck. Be sure you are filling the correct tank! Water Pump The water line from the tanks leads to the boat s fresh water pump in the equipment room, starboard side with access from the aft stateroom under the stair. Provided a switch, either in the galley or to the right of the aft Water fill on teak coaming. stateroom vanity is on, the pump will run whenever its built-in pressure switch detects low water pressure. There is an accumulator tank; it provides a pressure head for the pump, so the pump doesn t need to run so often. Instead, a pump cycle will provide for several minutes of routine water use before pressure diminishes and the pump starts again. It is a good idea to turn off the fresh water pump switches whenever leaving the boat for any extended period, lest a dripping faucet or broken hose cause the pump to run and waste your precious drinking water. Water Heater There are two ways to heat water: The usual electrically heated tank in the equipment room; and by running the starboard engine which runs its hot coolant water through a coil in the tank. After the water pump, water is distributed directly to the cold water faucet lines. In addition, it goes to the boat s water heater. When there is 110 volts AC from shore power, if available and the breaker is on, this will provide plenty of hot water. Likewise, if the starboard engine is running, it will heat the water in the hot water tank as well, by running the engine coolant through a special coil inside the tank. The heater is insulated well enough to keep hot water overnight without power, provided you haven t wasted a lot in dishwashing! Waste Water Waste water from the sinks and shower (but not from the toilet) is dumped overboard in accordance with U.S. and Canadian law. From sink basins, the water simply flows by gravity overboard. Since the floor of the shower is below the water line, the built in shower sump pump operates to lift this water back above the waterline and dump it overboard. It is therefore very important that the drain pump switch in the shower compartment be on (pulled out) during a shower. After the shower is complete, turn the Drain Pump switch in the head compartment Off by pushing it in Specifics: Fresh Water System

24 The DC Electrical System Concepts Each year it seems more folks are confused by the operation of electrical systems on yachts than by any other subject! Don t feel discouraged if something isn t clear: You ve got company in your confusion. So let s try to cover some theory here first. Most of the equipment on any boat is run by 12 volt DC electricity from the boat s batteries. This is true because DC should always be available: We have batteries aboard even when there is no shore power! If the batteries aren t run down, everything should work, just like in the family car. Since the batteries are used so much, we have to replenish, or charge them. The most important way we do this is by an alternator on the ship s engine. In most cases, the engine will provide enough electricity to run everything, and still have some energy left over to add back to the battery, that is, to charge it. Ah, but what if the engine isn t running? Then, the batteries are slowly depleted until they have run down and there is no more electricity stored in them... a big problem, because then we not only can t run all the neat stuff on the boat, we can t start an engine to get more electricity. So a good skipper and crew has electrical power management in mind whenever they turn an electrical gadget on or off! It is with this in mind that we can cite a reality: If we need more electricity than the batteries alone must provide, and if the propulsion engine isn t running, we will need to get our electrical power from an alternative source! That s the most important reason why we plug the boat in to shore power: To keep from running down the batteries. By using battery chargers getting their power from shore power, we can keep the batteries charged, or, at least, from getting too low. In modern, luxury cruising boats, however, there is another important factor: Some of the goodies we like to have on board such as hair dryers and microwave ovens require ordinary household electricity. This is 110 volts AC. It is different from DC. So if we want to use these things when we re not at a dock, we must have another way to get 110 volts AC, and for this we use an, an amazing high tech gadget that takes 12 volts DC from the ship s batteries and makes it into 110 volts DC! So here s what we ve got: A lot of stuff running on 12 volts DC with that electricity from the batteries. To keep the batteries from running down, we have an alternator run by the engine, and battery chargers that get their power from shore power. For the stuff that runs on 110 volts AC, we have shore power, or, for making AC out of the batteries DC, the. Battery Banks The batteries on this boat are not just one, big all-purpose battery. To have redundancy, there are actually several banks of batteries assigned different tasks. A starting bank of one battery is used for starting the engines, running the windlass, and operating the bilge pumps only. That way, we won t run it down by playing the stereo, for instance, and then be unable to start an engine. This battery is charged by one engine s alternator when this engine is running, or by the dedicated battery charger Specifics: DC Electrical System

25 A second bank of batteries is called the house battery. Connected to this are the, the pumps (except the bilge pumps), interior and exterior lights, horns, navigation and radio gear, etc. This bank runs the boat s house. It is charged by an alternator on the other engine and, when there is shore power, by the unit, which serves as a high-capacity charger. If the starting battery is run down, and/or we can t start the engine, we can turn the main battery switch to both, paralleling the two battery banks, to start the engine. The engine now is charging its battery, and we then reset the battery switch to 1". Never turn this switch off with the engine running! Since a battery works by making electricity through a chemical reaction, one component of which is water, we need to be sure the batteries have water in them; this battery servicing is normally done routinely every few weeks by the boat s owner or charter company. DC Battery Switches The main switches for the boat s batteries are located at the aft edge of the port cockpit floor hatch just under the edge of the deck. One of these is the starting battery switch, the other is the house battery switch. They are normally both On ; should the starting battery be low, the batteries should be paralleled by switching the starting battery switch to Both until the engines are started. Never turn a battery switch Off when an engine is running! An alternator could be seriously damaged if you do. From the battery switches, power goes from the starting battery to the windlass, the bilge pumps, and the engine starters. DC Breaker Panel From the battery switches, the DC power goes to the breaker panel at the helm. Here are the circuit breakers that protect the boat in the event of a short circuit or other malfunction. (There are several other breakers and/or fuses on the boat protecting the windlass and the Diesel furnace power that do not go through this panel. The breaker panel is just above the wheel. If a breaker trips, the button will pop out. Press it to reset Specifics: DC Electrical System

26 DC Switch Panel An important component of the DC electrical system is the DC switch panel by the helm. On this panel are the switches that control power to the boat s various systems that do not have switches located elsewhere. Here is the list of switches and how they're used: SWITCH CONTROLS SWITCH CONTROLS Nav-Off-Anc Anchor/Nav Lights Accessory Blower Engine Room Blower Cabin Heat Heater blower in Galley Steps Bilge Pump Fwd Forward Bilge Pump* Eng Lights Engine Room Lights Bilge Pump Aft Aft Bilge Pump* Panel Lights Instrument Panel Lights Horn Press to blow Horn Wipers Windshield Wiper In general, when on the boat, you'll have all these switches Off unless specifically needed. *These bilge pump switches turn on the bilge pumps manually, over-riding the float switches, but the float switches that turn the pumps on will still be working. In other words, these switches allow you to pump the bilge extra dry, or manually pump it is the float switches fail. Other switches are located throughout the boat: SWITCH LOCATION CONTROLS Salon Lights By Sliding Door Salon Lighting Propane Switch Left of Galley Sink Turns on propane; OFF WHEN NOT COOKING! Water Pump Switches Galley, Aft Cabin Vanity Allows Water Pump to run if needed Refrigerator Inside Fridge Door Turns Fridge On/Off (for overnight conservation) Shower Sump Side of shower by faucet Turns on shower sump pump Forward S/R Heat Above fwd S/R closet door Turns on forward stateroom fan if heater is on Aft S/R Heat Left of vanity by closet Turns on aft stateroom fan if heater is on Windlass Main Switch Aside lower helm Provides windlass power Specifics: DC Electrical System

27 DC Energy (Battery) Monitor To the right of the helm in the starboard side wall is the DC voltmeter that monitors the boat s batteries. #1=Engine Starting Battery #2=House Battery The meter shows you the present battery level. Here are the readings you should see: volts Battery is bulk charging, the alternator or shore power charger/ inverter are replenishing a battery which was not fully charged volts Battery is float charging, the engine alternator or shore power, Left, the VHF radio. Center, the water tank gauge and the inverter control. Right, the holding tank warning, battery monitor and engine hour meters. charger/inverter are keeping it full since it is fully charged volts Battery is fully charged, no charger is on volts Useful range of battery voltage for vessel equipment. Less than 11.0 volts Battery is considered discharged. Most equipment will not work Specifics: DC Electrical System

28 The AC Electrical System & Inverter Alternating Current is the electricity we get from Shore Power or the Inverter to operate normal household-style appliances. The AC Electrical System is controlled at two sites, the AC circuit breaker panel and the Inverter control panel. In addition, there is an AC voltmeter and AC ammeter located by the helm.! The panel light lets you operate switches at night.! The green pilot light indicates that there is shore power available.! The large white knob only operates in the Shore or Off positions. Use this to turn On and Off shore power before connecting the cable.! The Green Power light shows that power is available;! The Red Light warns of Reversed Polarity. It is important to note that immediately after connecting to shore power, if the Reverse Polarity light lights, it indicates that the shore power supply is mis-wired, a very dangerous (but rare) condition that could lead to an electrical shock, and will damage the boat's underwater running gear through the phenomenon known as electrolysis. You should remove the shore power cable immediately if this occurs and advise the marina's officials at once! The Test switch lets you test the light. The AC panel has some circuit breakers which are also switches: (B=Breaker; S=Switch & Breaker) BREAKER B S USE BREAKER B S USE Receptacles B To Outlets throughout boat MASTER (Big Red) B TURNS ON/OFF ALL Range Receptacles B To Outlets throughout boat Refrigerator B To Fridge Thermostat Water Heater S Turns on Water Heater Eng. Battery Charger S Switches On Charger. See Below Microwave B To Microwave Outlet Heater Heater Specifics: AC Electrical System & Inverter

29 Connecting/Disconnecting Shore Power The large AC shore power selector switch on the AC circuit breaker panel is used to determine the source of AC power for the boat. This switch should be left OFF whenever you are connecting or disconnecting the boat to shore. This is true so that you do not draw an arc from the plug due to the load of the boat on the connector s pins: Such an arc will burn the contacts and eventually cause them to overheat when in use, creating a fire hazard. Once connected to shore power, monitor the AC voltmeter to be sure you have not overloaded the circuit; the voltage will drop as you add load. Important Note: If the house batteries are low when you first hook up to shore power, and the inverter is turned on (as it should be), the inverter will begin charging the house batteries at a very high charging rate, drawing a lot of shore power current. Until this demand reduces (see The Inverter System below), you should turn OFF other high-current AC appliances such as the water heater. You can then turn on AC appliances as needed after the inverter s load reduces. Watch the ammeter to be sure you don't exceed the dock's available supply, typically 30 amps. Here are some estimates of AC power consumption for typical appliances: Water Heater 15 amps Inverter up to 22 amps Hair Dryer 12 amps TV 1.5 amps Coffee maker 10 amps Cell phone.3 amps Microwave 10 amps The Inverter System Shore power connection above starboard side deck. As we said, the Inverter system is used to provide AC to the boat when there is no shore power. It is wonderful, for example, to use the inverter to make a pot of coffee when the engines are running and you are underway, or to watch TV in a quiet anchorage, or use a hair dryer for a few minutes in the morning. But for long-period use of AC by large appliances, the engines must be running or you must have shore power available. That s because the house batteries, which power the inverter, store about amp-hours of electricity, that is, they can produce 100 amps for one hour, more or less. Now the microwave, for example, will draw about 100 amps of DC when using the inverter to run it, so in six minutes you use one-tenth of an hour at 100 amps, or ten ampere-hours. That means that in six minutes, you've consumed 10% of the house batteries' stored power. That's okay. But what if you want to cook a roast for 30 minutes? You used up half your energy on that one job alone! That s too much use for the inverter, and the propane stove should be used. For a short task, the inverter is great: no starting the generator, no noise, no fuss, the power is there. If the engines are running, use it all you wish, as long as you don't try to do two big jobs at once: The inverter can only produce 2,000 watts of energy at a time. So the inverter is only wired to the outlets and the microwave. It will not run the water heater, battery charger or refrigeration. Boat heaters, particularly, should never be run by the inverter; start the generator instead! But in addition to making AC out of DC, the inverter can do the reverse! If there is AC available from shore power, it will charge batteries! You tell what the inverter is doing by its control panel. The little lights indicate its status: Specifics: AC Electrical System & Inverter

30 Inverter LED Status Lights PWR is lit if there is AC available for battery charging (from shore power or the generator). FAULT will light if the system detects a problem (this is rare): See the manual. CHG will blink rapidly just after shore power or the generator comes on, indicating the unit is getting power but is not yet charging; it will be steady on if the Inverter is charging the batteries; off if the charger is not on nor is it charging; and blink slowly if the charger has insufficient AC power to charge the batteries in which case you will need to reduce the AC load or start the generator. INV will be ON if the inverter is on and supplying power to AC equipment on the boat; it will blink slowly if the inverter is on, but there is no equipment drawing power from it; and it will be off if the inverter is not run. Inverter Control Buttons: Touch a button to wake up the display before anything will work! On/Off Charger: Controls the charger function of the inverter. Should be left On. On/Off Inverter: Controls the inverter function. Should be left On except when at a moorage for long periods, such as overnight or longer, when the generator is not on and there is no shore power, to avoid depleting the batteries in case an AC appliance or light fixture has been left on. Shore: Pressing this button will display the present maximum power the charger will require from the boat s shore power connection; options are 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, and 50 amps. For example, you might normally want it on 20", but if limited to a small dock connection, may want it at 10" so that you don t trip the dock circuit breaker. Meter: This button sets the display to show DC amps and voltage to/from the batteries. AGS / Setup / Tech: Please do not use these soft-keys. Remember the important note above under Connecting/Disconnecting Shore Power : The inverter, if on, will draw a lot of current when bulk charging, so be careful not to overload a shore power circuit. If PWR and CHG are both lit, you will want to monitor the AC Ammeter by the lower helm and possibly reset the Shore setting! In summary, the inverter should be on whenever shore power is present or the generator is running, and it may also be left on when underway. It is a good idea to turn the inverter off at anchor (when the generator isn t running), turning it on only when you want to use something briefly, as above; in this way, you will avoid running down the house batteries just because someone left some AC appliance plugged in and forgotten Specifics: AC Electrical System & Inverter

31 Head System Overview HEAD & HOLDING TANK The head system on this boat is reliable, straightforward, and easy-to-use. First, a note about discharge of sewage: It is forbidden to discharge untreated sewage in inland US. waters, an area that includes all US. waters in which this boat operates. The boat holding tank must only be emptied at proper pump-out stations if it is in US. waters. (This rule does not apply in Canadian waters. However, in Canada, courteous practice dictates that the holding tank be dumped only when outside confined marinas or bays, as we are sure the reader agrees!) The boat is equipped with a Marine head. This head has a manual pump which macerates waste and puts it either into a holding tank or directly overboard, as determined by the setting on a Y- valve in the head plumbing line. The holding tank is emptied either of two ways: by operating an overboard macerator pump controlled at the DC power panel, or by pumping it using a shore side pump out station through the boat's side-deck pump out fitting. The Head The waste pumpout fitting is clearly marked on the starboard side deck! This premium head is easy to use, odor free, and very reliable. It works with two controls operated by the user: A switch type valve, and a pump. The head uses sea water for flushing. The head is operated by the pump lever and valve as follows: 1) To add water to the bowl, flip the lever toward you and operate the pump a few strokes. 2) Use the head; 3) Operate the pump ten strokes, then flip the switch away from you (to the no water position) and give it five more strokes. Only things which were eaten or drunk or the toilet paper supplied with the boat should be put in the head! Facial tissues, tampons, and other foreign matter will clog the system. If the head is used properly, it is very reliable. Failures are virtually always due to mis-use! In regard to the supplied toilet tissue, Four Sheets is Enough for each flush! Specifics: Head & Holding Tank

32 Head Problems The only likely head problem is a stopped up head do to mis-use, particularly clogging. If you (a) pump it enough; and (b) don t put in excessive proper T.P. or any other foreign matter other than human waste, you should have no trouble with it. If you have trouble and cannot correct it yourself, call AYC for assistance. Of course, if the holding tank is full, the head cannot work! Pump the holding tank (see below) when required! Y-Valves The Y-Valve on Seascape is in the Equipment Room alongside the aft stateroom, and is secured in the Holding Tank position. It should remain tat way! All effluent goes to the holding tank. The only way to pump effluent overboard is with the macerator pump. Holding Tank Pumpout & Macerator Pump There is a holding tank on the boat located in the equipment room. If dumped overboard from this tank using the macerator pump, the effluent passes through a through-hull valve (normally open). See if the tank needs pumping by the Tankwatch indicator s lights on the AC power panel. When the light illuminates, the heads must not be used and the tank must be emptied! To dump the tank, use a shore side pump out station connecting to the Waste deck fitting on the starboard side deck. If not in U.S. waters or a no-discharge zone, you can dump the tank overboard without a pump out station by turning ON the macerator pump at the DC panel: Press both buttons next to the lower helm simultaneously to run the pump; if a crew member looks on the starboard side while you pump, you ll be able to tell when all the waste has been pumped from the tank Specifics: Head & Holding Tank

33 HEATING SYSTEM Webasto Furnace The boat is equipped with a Webasto Heating System. This is a very compact furnace that burns the same Diesel fuel as the engines. The fuel comes from one of the engine tanks, but it uses a negligible amount of fuel, about a pint each hour it actually runs. A blower forces the air into each area of the boat; you control the amount of heat by adjusting the heater outlet butterfly baffles in each area. The furnace is controlled by a thermostat and switch, located just inside the salon sliding door; the switch must be ON (pulled out), then the temperature is set to the desired level. The furnace s built-in computer will warm up the furnace, supply heat to the boat until the thermostat senses it is warm enough, then shut off the fan while the furnace goes through a cool-down cycle. You need not do anything but set the thermostat with the switch on! IMPORTANT: Do not leave the heater on overnight when not on shore power! It consumes a fair amount of DC battery power, and you will deplete your batteries. Low battery power causes the automatic heater igniter to become fouled and inoperative. If you run the batteries down low, and the furnace igniters become fouled as a result, be warned: you will have no heat for the balance of the charter. Red Dot Heaters In addition to the Webasto furnace, there are two Red Dot heaters aboard Seascape. These heaters can be used when the boat s engines are in use. The operate like an automobile heater, converting the excess heat from engine coolant to warm air. They are controlled simply by turning their switches on or off, in turn operating their blowers. Since they will only be used when the engines are running, there is no concern about their consumption of DC electrical power as it will be replenished by the engine alternators. AC Heater There is an AC Pick a Watt heater below and starboard of the lower helm; it works when on Shore Power and is controlled by the AC breaker and by the dial on its face Specifics: Heating System

34 GALLEY EQUIPMENT The galley is fitted with a number of appliances for your convenience. Most of these (like the microwave) are easy to operate, just like a home appliance ; nevertheless, we will spend some time discussing the propane stove, as it is a marine unit that does have some features that are slightly different than a home model. Propane Stove The boat is equipped with a PRINCESS propane stove with three top burners and a thermostatically-controlled oven and broiler. Propane gas is heavier-than-air. Therefore it must be treated with care around a boat so that we can be absolutely sure there is no gas escaping into the atmosphere to collect in the boat s lowest spot, the enclosed bilges, to become an explosive safety hazard. For this reason, the propane tank itself is housed above the galley in the left seat on the flying bridge. Obviously. Up there, if there is a leak, the gas will simply be vented overboard, for there is no way from there for it to be redirected into the boat, as all openings into the salon from above are sealed (otherwise they d leak in a rainstorm!). There is, of course, a manual gas valve on the propane tank. This valve is used only when exchanging/filling tanks. There is also a second valve, a solenoid valve, in the flybridge seat propane line immediately after the manual valve. This electric valve is controlled by a switch in the galley itself, and in this way the cook can actually shut off the propane supply to the stove at its source when it not being used, simply by throwing the switch. Remote Propane Valve Control (under shelf) and water pump switch (below it). In addition, each stove burner, including the oven, is fitted with a thermocouple, a heat-sensing device that also controls the gas flow. When the gas supply is turned on to a burner, the gas will not flow unless (a) the burner is already on, or (b) the cook is holding the valve in the light position. So you can see the safety of this arrangement: If the burner goes out for any reason, the thermocouple will shut off the fuel automatically, assuring you of a safe galley. TO LIGHT A BURNER: Lighting a burner is easy and only takes five to ten seconds: 1) Be sure the propane valve circuit breaker in the DC panel is on. 2) Turn on the remote propane valve on the fly bridge by throwing the over-the-stove Propane switch (when you do this, the pilot light on the switch panel will light, and you will see the red area on the switch). 3) Turn the knob for your selected burner to light, holding it in, and press the red igniter button on the left of the stove several times until the burner lights. Sometimes you may need to turn the knob a little further toward high, or, if the tank has been changed, keep trying for a few seconds before fuel reaches the stove after purging air from the pipe. 4) After the burner lights, continue to hold the knob in for a few seconds while the Specifics: Galley Equipment

35 thermocouple heats up before adjusting the flame to the desired intensity. TO LIGHT THE OVEN: Since the oven burner is out of sight when the door is closed and it is on, and since while in use, the flame, controlled by the oven thermostat, goes on and off to control the temperature accurately, the oven has a pilot light that lights it when in use. Therefore the cook must light the pilot when the stove s oven is to be used. Also, by not leaving the pilot light on all the time since the oven isn t used at every meal, the boat s propane is conserved. Just as with the burners, lighting the oven is easy, and will take about 20 seconds: 1) Follow steps (1) and (2) above turning on the circuit breaker and propane switch. 2) Locate the pilot light assembly in the opening under the oven divider, at the right front of the burner assembly. 3) Turn the oven control to light, and, while holding the red oven light button on the right side of the range, use a match or butane fire-lighter to light the pilot light, holding the red button in for another fifteen seconds after the pilot is lit for the thermocouple to heat up and allow the pilot to stay on. If the pilot will not stay lit, hold the button in longer! 4) Adjust the thermostat to the desired temperature. Note: The oven burner will not immediately light! For safety reasons, the control has a slight time delay, and the oven s main burner will light after about 20 or 30 seconds following control-setting. In this way, the burner does not puff on and off as you adjust the control. 5) Until you are completely done with the oven for this cooking session, you may leave the control in the light position between cooking your dishes, so that to use it some more all you need to do is re-set it to a temperature --- the pilot is still lit. 6) When done with the oven for this meal, turn it completely off. The pilot light will go out. Propane Tank The 5-gallon propane tank for the stove is located under the left side of the flybridge console and is serviced by Anacortes Yacht Charters. Refrigerator The boat is equipped with an efficient under-counter refrigerator that runs on 12 volts DC or 110 volts AC. Refrigeration is controlled by the thermostat in the back of the refrigerator; set as required after allowing the refrigerator to stabilize for a few hours after loading. Propane tank to port of console on flybridge. Because of its excellent insulation, the fridge will stay cold a long time! If you wish, and you have kept the door closed for the preceding hour or so, you can shut the fridge off at night when at anchor to save batteries; but be sure to turn it on again in the morning! Microwave Oven The boat s microwave oven operates in the usual fashion, and is run underway by the inverter. For limitations on use, see the discussion about the inverter, above Specifics: Galley Equipment

36 ELECTRONICS: NAVIGATION EQUIPMENT, RADIOS & RADAR Overview The boat is equipped with extensive electronic equipment, including VHF radios, a radar, a GPS and Electronic Charting System using the C-Map technology with one or more C-map cartridges provided (see inventory), a depth sounder with flybridge repeater indicator, and an autopilot. Each unit is provided with a dedicated circuit breaker in the DC power panel; this breaker must be on for the unit to be used. Then the unit s own power button or knob must be used. VHF Radio There are two VHF radios on the boat. One is at the lower helm to the right and below the wheel, while the other is mounted to port of the upper helm. The radios are designed for easy access to Channel 16 which is the hailing and emergency channel in the Northwest. Other buttons allow you to select different channels, weather channels, high and low power, and US/International operation. The radios own instruction sheet will quickly familiarize you with basic operation. Radar The boat is equipped with a 24 mile Furuno radar set that has a display at the upper helms. This unit is used, combined with the electronic chart unit, for operation in restricted visibility, with the radar primarily serving as a device for collision avoidance while the chart unit provides position. Proper and safe use of a ship s radar requires lots of practice and careful study. While you are using the boat, you can have the radar on as much as you like to get used to the way it displays images, but for detailed operating instructions we refer you to the radar s own instructions at the back of this binder. Note that charterer s insurance DOES NOT PERMIT OPERATION OF THE VESSEL IN RESTRICTED VISIBILITY. You should confine your use of the radar to familiarization and training only in weather with good visibility. Lower helm Standard Horizon VHF. Handy, reliable, modern. Duplicate 7" Furuno LCD displays are at each helm, and can display GPS/Plotter info, Radar images, or depth information Specifics: Electronic Equipment

37 GPS and Electronic Charting System The boat is equipped with a GPS and plotting system integrated with the Furuno electronics, and has displays at each helm. The chart chip in it covers Olympia to Cracroft Island north of Desolation Sound. THE ELECTRONIC CHARTING SYSTEM IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAREFUL STUDY OF TRADITIONAL PAPER CHARTS. You are required by maritime law to use your paper charts for navigation information, especially since electronic chart technology does not always permit full cartographic details to show. The Electronic charts are for convenience only! The power button turns on the unit. From this point on, follow the instructions on the screen and in the manual kept in the helm cabinet. On the flybridge there is a display which will show you various GPS data to make navigation easier from above. Graphic Depth Sounder The Furuno depth sounder, one of two on the boat (see below), displays at either helm station on the Furuno Displays, and shows depth BELOW THE KEEL. Because our waters are sometimes very deep, the depth sounder will not display or will stay on a high depth reading when the water s depth is beyond its capacity. Remember when going astern, or when crossing a tide line, turbulent water from the tides or the boat s screws (or the propellers of another boat) can interrupt the sounding information received by the unit. Be careful! You will find more information about the sounder s operation in its manual. Note: Northwest waters are rocky and depths change rapidly. You should be especially careful to study your charts, and then check them often whenever running in lesser depths, so that you don t hit a rock! Just as our islands pop up to heights of 50, 100, or even thousands of feet in a very small distance, so do rocky obstacles! Backup Depth Sounders A second, digital depth sounder is on the flybridge as a backup to the Furuno unit, with a display built in to the console, operated by a clearly marked switch in the center of the helm. To be sure of no interference between this and the other sounders, be sure it is off when not in use. A third, Hummingbird depth sounder, is at the lower helm. It also should be off unless in use! Also, the radar/chart plotter display functions as a fish finder: Consult the Furuno operations manual. Lower helm Hummingbird sounder is to right overhead Specifics: Electronic Equipment

38 Stereo A stereo system is mounted in the end of the serving counter by the galley. It includes an AM/FM/CD player. The AM/FM//CD stereo by the galley. TV Set/Video Cassette Player The TV set provided runs on AC only, and has a built-in DVD player. If using the inverter to run the TV, remember to monitor your batteries so as to be sure not to run them down! It is best, of course, to limit TV use to those times when shore power is available Specifics: Electronic Equipment