Yagyu Kaido Directions (Enjo-ji to Nara)

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1 Yagyu Kaido Directions (Enjo-ji to Nara) Overview This ancient trail links Nara city to the town of Yagyū via a trail winding through the mountains to the east following the Yodogawa River. Believed to have been in use as early as the Kamakura period ( ), the path is sometimes called the Takisaka-no-michi ( waterfall road ) due to the way water flows between the paved stones during rainfall. The Yagyū clan were master swordsmiths, and warriors often took this path through mountain forests and past the burial grounds of Jigoku-dani to procure a sword from them. The area has since become a protected trail, and hikers can visit a number of ancient monuments along the way, shaded by the towering forest of Japanese cedars and oaks. Walking overview The route from Enjo-ji to Nara is a lovely trail, along predominantly dirt forest trails. From Enjo-ji, there is a gentle ascent of 100m, reaching a maximum altitude of 480m. After 6km of moderately flat hiking, the trail gently descends through the forest to Nara, with a descent of 350m, over the remaining 5km of the walk. Distance 7.8 miles / 12.6km Time required 4-5 hours Ascent/descent 245m / 805 feet of ascent and 535m / 1755 feet of descent Type of walking dirt trails and some short paved sections Food and snacks There is a shop and vending machines at the beginning of the walk, but options on the trail are limited. The 200-year old teahouse Toge no Chaya is atmospheric and worth visiting. Page 1

2 Walking directions Alight at Ninnikusen Bus Stop 忍辱山バス停 (Map Point 1). Turn left and head east to retrace the bus route along the main road, Route 369. In 70m head through a wooden gate to the right, into the temple garden; the entrance to Enjō-ji Temple. The temple itself is above the garden on the right. Enjō-ji Temple First constructed in 756 AD, when Nara was the capital of Japan, Enjō-ji is a temple of the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Many of the structures here have been designated National Treasures, including the twin Kasugado and Hakusando shrines which are some of the oldest surviving examples of the kasuga-zukuri gabled roof architecture. The beautiful tahōtō pagoda on the temple grounds is a replica of the original (lost to war and damage) and houses a wooden statue of the Dainichi Nyorai Buddha, the oldest verified work by the master sculptor Unkei. The grounds also boast gardens added in the late Heian period which are true to name living depictions of the Pure Land Buddhist concept of paradise. After visiting the temple, continue left round the temple garden in the same direction and leave the temple grounds just beyond a small restaurant. Heading up a set of stone steps to emerge at Route 369 again, cross the road and turn right on to join the main road. Walk about 100m to reach a narrow path paved with stones (Map Point 2). Ignore a sharp left turn and join this stone path, passing a map and several Jizo statues. Page 2

3 The trail undulates gently through the forest. Signs assist at junctions pass one sign on the left at a clearing before the path curves around to the right (Map Point 3). There are just two stretches where the path is narrower, a little rougher and the climb becomes moderate instead of gentle. In about 1km, you pass a sign marking 2.7km to Toge no Chaya 峠の茶屋, or tea house on the mountain pass. About 800m after the tea house sign, turn left at a T-junction with a wooden sign 峠の茶屋 奈良 1.8km (Map Point 4). Follow this road. After the road emerges from the forest, take a signed right turn towards Takisakado no Wariishi 滝坂道の破石 (Map Point 5). The road ascends gently to a tiny settlement and there are toilets on the left, but the water is not suitable for drinking. Toge no Chaya is about 200m further on. Toge no Chaya tea house 峠の茶屋 Toge no Chaya has been in business for nearly 200 years; there is a collection of samurai-era spears and guns used by travellers instead of money to pay for their tea and sweets. Here you can take a short break from your hike to enjoy a cup of tea and their specialty Udon and Mochi dishes. Page 3

4 Pass the tea house and continue along the road. 220m further ahead, reach a signed dirt path to the left (Map Point 6). Here you have two options to reach Kubikiri Jizo a standard forested hike of 2.1km or a paved shortcut of 930m. Please note that the forested hike is somewhat narrow in places, and for one short section offers a chain to hold on to for additional balance (although the route is mostly flat and the chain is most suitable in wet conditions only). Paved shortcut If you choose to take the paved shortcut, ignore the signed dirt path to the left at Map Point 6 and continue along the current paved road. About 400m further ahead, emerge onto a road and turn right downhill. At a T-junction about 100m down this road, leave the road and turn left downhill on a stone-paved path. Go straight across where the stone-paved path crosses another trail; continue ahead at the next junction too. 100m after this second junction, you come to a toilet (not drinking water), a rest area and a large stone Jizo Bodhisattva where the short cut and standard hike merge. To undertake the full hike, take the signed dirt path to the left at Map Point 6 and follow the path as it descends into the forest. At the bottom of the slope, cross a wooden bridge to reach the chain section. Pass this narrow stretch to return to a standard dirt trail, which curves around to the right. Pass over another wooden bridge to reach Jigokudani Kutsubutsu on the right. Page 4

5 Jigokudani Sekkutsubutsu 地獄谷石窟仏 The area of Jigokudani or Hell s pass was once the site of a mass burial ground for the sick and condemned from the larger cities. Eventually the practice was abandoned and the area was made into a large pond, but while the reflection the towering cedars in the glassy surface of the water may be a peaceful, almost transcendent scene now, the name remains a chilling reminder of the past. Carved directly into a small cavern nearby, the three Jigokudani Sekkutsubutsu, meaning cavern Buddha reliefs here portray Buddhas of wisdom, healing, and mercy, and are particularly emotive. The reliefs are thought to be from the Edo or Heian Period. Pass the statue and cross a bridge. Eventually arrive at a main road, Nara Okuyama Driveway 奈良奥山ドライブウェイ. Oku may be a kanji you are familiar with. Take care when crossing the road, and follow a signed set of stone steps back into the forest. Reach a lake to your right, Jigokudani Shinike 地獄谷新池 and pass a sign on the left 首切地蔵 0.2km. At the east end of the lake, reach a rest area next to another sign. Ignore the right turn and follow the sign to the left, leaving the lake area. Kubikiri Jizo is 125m further along this path. Kubikiri Jizo 首切り地蔵 Kubikiri Jizo watches over the souls of those executed via decapitation and protects travelers from their lingering resentment and malice. There is a small depression on the statue that is said to have been made by the famous swordsman of the early Edo period, Mataemon Araki, when he tried out his sword on it. Page 5

6 Continue down the path along the stream heading east. (A small bridge on your right leads to 春日山原始林 Kasugayama Primeval Forest, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, but is not on the route of today s walk). In about 400m, the first Bodhisattva engraved on a big rock across the stream is Asahi Kannon or Kannon of the morning Sun, because it is most beautiful in the morning light. The next carving at the wooden sign 夕日観音 is Yu-hi Kannon or Evening Kannon, because it is most beautiful at sunset. The descent along the stream is picturesque and the trail criss-crosses the water on small bridges. Take care on the ishidama paving which can be slippery in wet weather. As the path finally emerges from the forest, bear right towards houses rather than left along the stream. Descend this road; at the bottom, ignore a signed left turn to Nara and bear right instead. Continue down that road. Shortly after the modern building on the left housing dental offices, ignore a signed sharp right uphill and continue straight ahead. In 200m, reach a right turn next to a stone marker (Map Point 7). You can follow the current road as it descends gently to Wariishi-cho bus stop 破石町バス停, crossing the road and walking to the right for regular buses towards both Kintetsu and JR Nara stations. City Bus Number 1 departs regularly; the journey is less than ten minutes and the fare is around JPY200. Alternatively, instead of descending all the way to Wariishi-cho bus stop, you can take the right at the stone marker and follow signs to enter Nara Park, heading towards Kasuga Shrine. In 50m, pass between stone lanterns to enter the park. There are toilets and drinking water 200m along the path into the park. 210m further ahead is Kasuga Shrine. The park and the shrine can be wonderfully peaceful in the late afternoon after most visitors have left. Signs will help you navigate your way through the park and back down into Nara town. When you have finished at the shrine, take the left path from the entrance to the shrine, heading east. After 390m, the path bears right and eventually joins a wider path. Take this left, heading east along the main street in Nara to reach Kintetsu and JR Nara Stations. Page 6