Scugdale, Barker's Crags 247 Scugdale, Barker's Crags. 246 North York Moors. Al Manson on 88. Black Wall Traverse (Font 6b) Photo: Steve Crowe

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1 246 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags 247 Scugdale, Barker's Crags Al Manson on 88. Black Wall Traverse (Font 6b) Photo: Steve Crowe

2 248 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags 249 BARKER'S CRAGS OS Landranger Sheet: 93 Map Ref: NZ Aspect: South Facing Altitude: 310m Approach: 5 minutes Mod - Severe 22 HS - HVS 11 E1 - E3 14 E4 and above 1 Bouldering 82 History The early history from the 1930s until 1956 follows the same theme as that for Scot Crags, with Arthur Evans and Richard Wharldall being the prime movers. Sadly no details of their exploits have been found, so it has not been possible to credit particular climbs to them. Throughout its early exploration the crag never enjoyed the popularity of Scot Crags and little of interest was added until 1965 when Stew Wilson and Geoff Harper climbed two existing but previously not led routes, Leaning Wall and The Chute respectively. Tony Marr discovered the superb Fallen Arch the following year, and later during the early 1970s, added a number of hard problems including Avalon and Right Wall. During his visits Tony had noted several obviously hard, unclimbed lines and it was not long before he returned with Alan Taylor for a closer look. The pair concentrated their efforts at Cleft Buttress, only to find the rival team of Paul Ingham and Tony McLean also probing the same lines. The first climb to fall was Finger Jam to Paul Ingham and Tony McLean, but the real prize and worth every one of its three stars, New Dimensions, fell to Alan Taylor a short time later. The two teams then combined their considerable talents to produce some of the best climbs at the crag including, Easter Edge, The Nose and Snatch Arête. The latest climbs generated much interest and it wasn t long before Dave Paul added the powerful Hangover and the extremely serious Grand Master Flash in Richard Davies made a significant contribution with many new and difficult routes during 1987, of which Empty Illusions and Impressionless Lust justify a special mention. At the beginning of the 1990s interest shifted to producing eliminates and very hard problems. The main exponents of this development were Francis (Monty) Montague, Martin Parker, and Liam Wilson who between them created several desperate routes including Monty s Leap, Smiler and The Bends. Steve Crowe was also producing numerous excellent climbs at this time of which Atticism, Breeze and Air Time are particularly noteworthy. Finally, during work for the previous edition of this guide in 2002, Tony Marr accompanied by Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald and Peter Shawcross filled two obvious gaps with Over the Top and Whazzup. That age old question; Are the rocks fully worked out? Only time will tell! Situation and Character It is hard to believe that the first climbs at Barker s Crags lie only a stone s throw from the hustle and bustle of Scot Crags, but it s true. Once the fence is crossed the peace and tranquillity is very noticeable, and it is not unusual to have the whole crag to oneself. The crags comprise a series of isolated buttresses of good quality, weathered sandstone, separated by a couple of minutes walking. If you are seeking high quality climbs of all standards or just somewhere to get away from the crowds, look no further. Access and Approaches Follow the approach described to Scot Crags. Do Not climb over the wire fence, but continue to a stile on the moor edge, just above rocks. The first climbs lie a few metres right of the fence and slightly lower than Scot Crags. Although is possible to walk along the bottom of the entire escarpment, at certain times of the year thick bracken is an impediment and it is much quicker and easier to walk between buttresses by following the moor path at the top of the crags. Note: Due to ground nesting birds the landowner has been granted a CROW restriction for all dogs to be kept on a lead. Jason Wood soloing 38. Snatch Arête (E2 5c) Photo: Jason Wood Coll.

3 250 North York Moors Rowan Buttress 8. Rowan Tree Wall 4m Font 2+ Climb the block wall to finish just left of the tree. The corner on the right is Font Left Arête 4m Font 3+ Climb the fine square arête up its left side. Paul Ingham 1979 Scugdale, Barker's Crags Right Wall 4m Font 5+ Ascend the green streak on small edges to a good finishing hold but an awkward exit. The left edge is out of bounds. An extended start to the right is possible, traversing left along the break then finish up the green streak. Tony Marr Extended start by Steve Crowe 1990s Rowan Buttress 7 Jackson's Block Two short problems are to be found on an isolated block with an overhanging front face 8m right of Right Wall. 4 The Climbs The climbs are described from left to right. 5 Overhanging Block Easily identified by the overhang running across its front face. This boulder is located about 5m right of the fence and a little lower than the buttresses of Scot Crags. Three short problems are described but many variations are possible. 1. Slab 4m Font 3 Follow the slab on the left side of the overhang. 1960s 2. Overhanging Crack 4m Font 3+ Tackle the obvious crack splitting the overhang. 1960s 3. Flake Route 3m Font 3+ Climb the bulge at its right end up a shallow groove. 1960s 50m further right and slightly lower is a fine buttress with a slabby arête and an overhanging right wall. 6 Barker s Buttress Barker s Buttress 4. Angel Eyes 5m Font 3 Follow the blunt arête in the centre of the left face. 1980s 5. Stolen Moment 5m Font 3 Start midway between the two arêtes and climb directly to the top via a scoop. M Turner 7th May Roof Route 6m Font 3 * Climb the right edge of the main face on sculptured holds. 7. Avalon 5m Font 4+ About 2m right of Roof Route is an overhanging crack leading to an awkward exit. Tony Marr 1975 Three more problems are to be found 10m further right, where a rowan tree sprouts from the crag. 11. Left Arête 4m Font 3+ Climb the left arête. Ken Jackson Front Overhang 4m Font 3 Climb the overhang. Ken Jackson 1968 Barking Block A similar block located a further 6m to the right has one interesting problem. 13. Barking Mad 4m Font 4 Climb the centre of the overhanging front face. Tony Marr 1968 Amphitheatre Buttress About 120m right of Barking Block. The first climb is located at the extreme left side of the buttress at the top of the slope. 14. Green Chimney 3m Font 2+ Climb the prominent wide crack with an overhanging finish. 15. Hairline 4m Font 4 A short problem. Without using the embedded block, climb the hairline crack just right of Green Chimney. Pull over the overlap and finish up the short wall, awkward exit. Escaping onto the ledge on the right reduces the grade to Font 3+. FA. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 22/08/ Problem Wall 4m Font 5+ Climb the centre of the blank looking wall on tiny side pulls. Richard Davies. 25th April Outer Wall 5m VS 4c Starts 1m left of the thin crack, Pedestal Crack. Climb the shallow scoop and wall above keeping left of the arête at the top Jackson s Block Barking Block

4 252 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags Amphitheatre Buttress 18. Pedestal Crack 5m S * Climb the thin crack to the left of the prominent nose. From the ledge, continue up the wall above. Awkward. 18a. Walled Out 5m Font 5 Start immediately right of the previous route. Use small but positive crimps to pull onto the wall and reach up right for further crimpy pockets. Use these to gain the finishing mantleshelf. Mark Turner 2nd July Walled In 5m Font 4+ Ascend the wall to the left of the prominent nose. John Earl, Bob Hutchinson July The Nose 5m VD Start just right of the nose then move up the edge. 21. Pedestal Chimney 3m D Misleadingly called a chimney. Climb the first wide crack to the right of the nose. 22. Pedestal Wall 7m HVD Start up Pedestal Chimney then move right onto the face and climb this to the top. The wall can also be climbed without use of either the crack or chimney at HVS 5b. Both climbs 23. Hedgehog Arête 6m VS 5a Pull onto the arête from the right and climb it delicately with a step right to finish. Christopher Alexis Harrison, solo 9th August Flake Chimney 5m HD The wide, vertical cleft. 25. Flake Chimney and Wall 4m D Starts up Flake Chimney then moves rightwards across the slab to finish up the first crack. 26. Hard Sell 4m VS 4c Climb the wall right of Flake Chimney, finishing right. Bob Bennett, Mark Turner 31st September Long Chimney 5m HVD Follow the corner to an awkward exit. 27a. Coalition 5m S 4b Shares a start with Long Chimney. Ascend the chimney to half height then break out right with a hand traverse in the upper break with an exciting couple of moves across the wall before finishing steeply but positively. Mike and Ciaran Conlon 1st September a. Tall Tales, 6m, VS 5c Immediately right of Long Chimney. Cross the undercut and move up to an obvious good hold. Traverse right to finish up the crack. No using any of the adjacent walls. Martin Whitton, Steven Phelps 25th Oct Fairy Tale High 5m Font 6c Climbs the centre of the wall to the right of Long Chimney on tiny holds. Distinctly thin. Alan Taylor 29th March Easter Edge 5m Font 5+ * The bulging arête just right of Fairy Tale High. Tony Marr 12th April Fairy Tale Low 5m Font 7a One for the connoisseur! Begin from a sitting position below the bulge just right of Easter Edge. Pull over the bulge then up the wall, starting from a pocket at chest height. 1980s. 31. The Nose 5m Font 5+ * The prominent blunt arête to the right of Easter Edge provides a superb problem. Paul Ingham, closely followed by Alan Taylor, Tony Marr, Tony McLean, all solo. April Snuff 5m Font 5+ This interesting problem lies up the narrow sidewall between The Nose and Alcove Cracks. Paul Ingham Alcove Cracks 7m S ** Climb the superb steep groove immediately to the left of Alcove Chimney. 34. Alcove Chimney 7m MVS Climb the wide corner-crack, which is bounded by a sculptured wall on its right. Awkward. 35. Alan s Wall 7m E1 5b Takes the centre of the wall right of Alcove Chimney on fragile holds. Alan Taylor 28th June Another Taylor 4c 36. Scoop Wall 7m E2 5c Start just left of the curving scoop and follow the edge of the wall on small holds, moving right to finish. Bob Hutchinson, John Earl July Mister Whippy 7m E2 5c (Font 6a) This route is a mix of earlier eliminates all based on climbing the impressive curving scoop. Follow the scoop, avoiding both arêtes, to a small undercut flake. Make a long move up to a good pocket then finish direct through the small roof crack. Intimidating. 1990s. The original route, Captain Kirk Where Are You (E2 5c, Stu Ferguson 1987), climbed the scoop then escaped leftwards. 38. Snatch Arête 7m E2 5c *** This is the fine arête forming the right edge of the curving scoop. Climb straight up, with a difficult move to a good hold. Further awkward moves may take you to the top. Another intimidating problem. Tony Marr 13th April Empty Illusions 7m E2 5c The narrow overhanging wall just to the right of Snatch Arête. Richard Davies 13th May Pioneer s Chimney 5m M The chimney to the right. Amphitheatre Buttress 41. Ancient Pioneer 5m VS 4b Separating Pioneer s Chimney and Ancient s Ascent is a blunt flake. Climb the edge of the flake via a thin crack, exit up the right side of the final nose. Short but still worthwhile. FRA Tony Marr 16th January

5 254 North York Moors 42. Ancient s Ascent 5m D * Lies on the right-hand side of the flake forming the right wall of Pioneer s Chimney. Keep to the left edge. 43. Super Skunk 3m Font 6a+ About 10m right of Amphitheatre Buttress is a small buttress with an overhanging left arête. Climb the arête via an obvious pocket. The sitting start is an excellent Font 6b s. SS by Martin Parker, Liam Wilson both solo May 1995 Road End Buttress Is 100m further right beyond the trees. 44. One for the Road 4m S Climb the centre of the steep wall on the lefthand side of the buttress. 45. Shandy 5m VD The nose to the right of One for the Road is climbed up its left edge with a move right at the top. Climbing straight over the middle of the overhang is HS. 46. Chaser Chimney 4m HVD The short chimney on the right side of the buttress. About 12m to the right are a jumble of large blocks forming Road End Buttress Last But One Buttress Last But One Buttress The first boulder has a prominent overhanging nose on its left side. 47. The Frog 3m Font 5 Start below the overhang then pull onto the slab and move right. Interesting. Tony Marr Last But One Buttress 4m VD Climb the enjoyable flake crack 3m right of the last route. Day s End Buttress This buttress is a further 20m right and a little higher up the slope. 49. Flake Wall 4m Font 2+ The flakes up the centre of the steep wall. 50. Joshua s Nose 4m HVD Climb the blunt arête between Flake Wall and the next route. 51. Bilberry Cracks 5m Font 2+ * Climb the twin cracks up the corner groove. 52. Left Again 5m Font 5+ * A good problem tackling the undercut arête to the right of the last climb. Alan Taylor Dangerous Game 5m Font 5 * Start on the right side of the right-hand arête. Pull up and move around to the left towards a crack, which leads to the top. Richard Davies 20th May Safety in Numbers 5m Font 4 Start just right of Dangerous Game and climb the wall direct, keeping just right of the arête Breakout 4m Font 3 * Takes the wall to the right of Dangerous Game via the diagonal fault Belly Chimney 4m VD Thrutch up the awkward wide alcove containing two cracks. 57. Jericho Wall 3m VD The wall to the right of Belly Chimney is climbed on jugs The Eyrie Scugdale, Barker's Crags Snippet 3m Font 5+ Attack the overhanging arête right of Belly Chimney. Now try the sitting start. 1980s 59. Evening Wall 3m Font 2+ Climb the wall right of the last route. Late 1980s Days End Buttress The outcrops start again about 70m beyond Day s End Buttress across the sunken track. The first buttress described (The Eyrie), lies about 50m from the gate, and above and to the left of a prominent oak tree. Several short buttresses en route provide numerous problems and a particularly testing low-level traverse. The Eyrie This tiny buttress is identified by a faint crack/ groove in its front, overhanging face. 60. The Eyrie 3m Font 5+ Start from the pockets at the top of the crack and gain the sloping ledge. Tricky moves lead leftwards to the sloping ledge. Steve Crowe 12th November 1995 About 10m further right is a large block with an overhanging left wall, and a steep front face with a wide chimney at its right end. 59

6 256 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags Bird s Nest Buttresses A good selection of boulder problems. 61. Fragile Wall 3m Font 4+ The left wall just right of the small cave on delicate holds. Steve Crowe Smiler 3m Font 4+ From a sitting start in the centre of the wall gain the good holds (start of The Bends) then move left and up to finish. Martin Parker July The Bends 3m Font 6a+ A short flight from good holds to the top. Originally done as a double dyno in one move! Liam Wilson 28th June Wild 4m Font 4+ The line just left of the arête, with a good hold to finish. Steve Crowe 12th November Birds Nest Buttress 65. Flake Arête 4m Font 5+ From a sitting start, the arête is climbed on improving holds to a precarious mantelshelf finish. Steve Crowe and Karin Magog Short and Sweet 5m Font 5+ Climb the centre of the steep wall to a sloping ledge and then possibly, the top. Tony Marr May Windy 4m VD Climb the edge just left of the chimney. Tony Marr 24th January Air Time 12m Font 6c+ The buttress can be traversed at high level and back on a lower level. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 1990s. 69. Breeze 3m Font 3 Climb the face of the boulder forming the right edge of the chimney. Steve Crowe 12th November Arch and Attic Buttress About 25m further right, capped by two trees. The first two climbs are short problems starting just left of Arch Gully beneath the overhanging wall. 70. Architrave 2m Font 5+ Descend under the overhanging wall to the foot of a short overhanging crack. From a sitting start, jam the crack to finish on the ledge on the left (about 1m above the ground!). Steve Crowe 12th November Arch Rival 4m Font 6a Start just right of the last route, also beneath the overhanging wall, which is climbed from a sitting start using the diagonal crack. Pull around the bulging wall just left of the gully, and as the angle eases a hidden pocket to the right of the arête helps gain the top. Steve Crowe 11th February Arch Gully 7m M * Scramble up the narrow gully under the massive capstones Over the Top 5m VS 4c * Climb up and over the centre of the massive capstones to finish right. Unusual but enjoyable climbing. Steve Findlay 1990s 74. Fallen Arch 5m HVS 5a ** To the right of the Arch is a superb overhanging crack, which contains everything that is good about jamming! Tony Marr 26th April Attic Gully 5m D The awkward gully to the right of Fallen Arch Atticism 4m Font 5+ The wall right of Attic Gully, and just left of the arête. A good pocket in the arête helps gain the sloping ledge then pull onto the slab. Steve Crowe 12th November Foot Loose 5m Font 6a Start around the arête to the right of Atticism in the middle of the leaning wall. Pull up and move left to escape up a short finger-crack. Tony Marr June Direct Start 4m Font 5+ Climb directly to the final finger-crack. Tony Marr June Arch and Attic 79. Attikismos Traverse 10m Font 6a An interesting low-level traverse starting from Attic Gully to the right edge and then back again. Steve Crowe 1990s 12m to the right is a large block split by a horizontal break with a short vertical cleft above. This is Hogmanay Buttress. 78

7 258 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags Hogmanay Buttress Black Wall Hogmanay Buttress 80. Auld Lang Syne 3m Font 4 Climb the wall left of the obvious wide crack of Hogmanay. A hand jam then small pockets lead to the top. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog 4th October Hogmanay 3m Font 2+ Hug the block to gain the ledge, then move left and finish up the vertical cleft. 82. First Footing 3m M Start just right of the arête. Climb up via two obvious pockets. Black Wall Just across the easy gully is a steep, dark stained wall with several popular problems. 83. Black Corner - Left Side 3m VD * Climb the left-hand arête on surprisingly large jugs. 84. Black Corner - Right Side 3m Font 3 * Climb the wall just right of the arête on surprisingly good pockets. 85. Black Wall 4m Font 4+ The wall 2m right of the arête. Richard Davies 25th April Mandela s Day 4m Font 5+ * Gain the shallow corner above a small overlap, 3m right of Black Corner. Small pockets lead left or right, the choice is yours. Steve Crowe, Karin Magog, 4th October Timeless Divide 3m Font 3+ * Takes the wall 1m left of the right arête. Richard Davies 25th April Black Wall Traverse 5m Font 6b ** A low level traverse of Black Wall. The L-R direction being the most enjoyable Richard Davies 1987 Black Wall Boulder The boulder below Black Wall provides three entertaining problems. 89. Billy No Mates 3m Font 5+ The overhanging arête. Start on the flake. R. Sanders 9th April Harry Palmer 3m Font 5+ The centre of the boulder is climbed via a side pull. R. Sanders 9th April Big Nose 3m Font 5 Simply jump for the nose and pull over. R. Sanders 9th April 1997 A few metres further right is the largest, steepest and most impressive buttress at Barker s Crags. Steve Crowe on 98. New Dimensions (E3 6a) Photo: Karin Magog

8 260 North York Moors The Cleft Buttress Comprises two impressive overhanging faces separated by the obvious cleft of Chockstone Chimney. During the late 1950s early 1960s, the buttress was used for peg climbing practice as the overhanging walls were considered unclimbable by any other means. How wrong that was! The buttress is now home to some of the finest and hardest free climbs in the region. The first route starts high up the slope on the left side of the buttress. 92. Imperial Measurements 5m S Climb the thin crack just right of the shallow yellow scoop to a good finishing jug over the top. The crack on the left is D. 1980s 93. Leaning Wall 8m VS 5a * Start just left of the arête. Climb the left wall of the buttress following a diagonal line of flakes. top roped only. First Led: S Wilson The Chute 7m VS 4c * Start at the left arête. Climb the shallow groove then move slightly rightwards into the obvious scoop. top roped only. First Led: Geoff Harper Elimination 7m Font 6c Start just left of the crack of Finger Jam. Climb the shallow scoop to join Finger Jam at the good hold. Paul Ingham Finger Jam 7m Font 6a * Climb the thin curving crack moving left at the top to finish up The Chute. Direct Finish 6m Font 6a+ Climb the crack then finish over the blunt nose. Finger Jam: Paul Ingham, Tony McLean Spring 1977 Direct Finish: Paul Ingham Monty s Leap 7m Font 6c Climb the wall between Finger Jam and New Dimensions for about 4m until it is possible to jump for the good hold on New Dimensions up which the climb finishes. Francis (Monty) Montague New Dimensions 6m E3 6a (Font 6a+) *** Start 1m right of Finger Jam below a severely overhanging crack. Ascend the crack using a bizarre sequence of moves to an awkward finish. A superb, sustained problem. Alan Taylor 28 th June The climb is comparable with classic test pieces on Yorkshire gritstone, and its ascent brought a new level of technical difficulty to the North York Moors. 99. Open up and Gurgle 6m Font 7a+ A difficult eliminate up the wall between New Dimensions and Hangover via a pocket. Martin Parker 12 th May Hangover 6m Font 6a Climb the overhanging arête just right of New Dimensions, which also forms the left side of Chockstone Chimney. Dave Paul Circuit Training 18m Font 6b Climb New Dimensions to the good jug. Swing left, crossing Finger Jam and into The Chute; descend this and traverse right to New Dimensions. Repeat! Paul Ingham A typical training problem devised by Paul, who regularly made a dozen continuous circuits Shorter s Circuit 18m Font 6c A highly advanced version of Circuit Training on the New Dimensions wall. Start on the left-hand side. Traverse to the right arete with feet above the bottom break. Traverse back left to Finger Jam (feet above break again). Up Finger Jam to big break. Reverse Circuit Training in to New Dimensions. Down New Dimension until hanging off the bottom break. Back up New Dimensions and across Circuit Training. Quite strenuous! Monty thought I was mad when I showed him it. Chris Shorter 104. Chockstone Chimney 7m HD Climb the chimney using both walls Sculptured Wall 8m E1 5a Good climbing up the right wall of the chimney. Bridging not allowed. Poorly protected. top roped only. First Led: S Wilson Sculptured Arête 11m E3 5c * Start as for Sculptured Wall then move right and climb the arête until 2m below the top. Traverse right around the arête then move up to an awkward finish. Serious. Paul Ingham (solo) Right of the arête forms a very impressive overhanging wall with two fine climbs Heartbeat 10m E3 5c Climb the right side of Sculptured Arête, moving left at the top break to finish up the groove in the arête. Serious. Richard Davies (solo) 20th May a. Cannonball Run 12m E3 6a Ascend the arête left of Grand Master Flash until a rising rightwards traverse can be gained. Traverse the bulging wall, crossing Grand Master Flash to finish on a good block ledge. Strenuous and airy. Dave Paul (solo) Grand Master Flash 11m E5 6b *** Takes the centre of the impressive concave wall on fragile holds. The crux is at 6m and the Scugdale, Barker's Crags 261 landing is poor. Devoid of protection! Dave Paul Climbed solo after top rope inspection. 108a. Mother of all Ketchup Bottles E6 6b ** Starts as for Grand Master Flash but pulls out right as the angle eases to make the most of the bad landing! Serious! Martin Parker Solo after top rope inspection Night Entry 10m VD This climbs the overhanging corner at the right side of the impressive concave wall, followed by the arête of the wall above Rum Doodle 5m Font 3+ Takes the obvious layback crack to the right of Night Entry. Distinctly awkward Rhum Duhb 4m Font 6b The short wall to the right of Rum Doodle can be climbed using mono and a small pocket. 112 M&M s Buttress M&M s Buttress Is a further 7m right of Cleft Buttress Minstrel Wall 4m Font 3 The slabby wall 1m left of the left arête A Sack a Day 5m Font 3+ Climb the left-hand arête direct. (SS is Font 5). Richard Davies (solo) 13 th May Slap Happy 5m Font 5+ Takes the front face via a rounded ledge and a thin crack. (The SS is Font 6a). Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague M&M s Arête 4m Font 3 The steep powerful right-hand arête. Martin Parker, Francis (Monty) Montague 1991

9 262 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Crags Cinderella and The Ugly Sisters 70m further right is a triple buttress. The first climb starts a short way up the slope to the left of the nose Beware the Thunder 5m HVS 5c Climb the wall at the left end of the overhang. Then trend right to finish. An easier escape at 5a can be made by moving left up a short flake crack. Richard Davies (solo) 25 th April Living in Sin 6m E1 6a Climb the centre of the overhang and the wall to the left of the nose. Richard Davies (solo) 25 th April Impressionless Lust 7m E1 6a * Start between Living in Sin and the nose of the buttress. Pull over the overhang and cross the smooth wall to finish up the nose. Richard Davies, solo. 25 th April Cinderella 7m VD Takes the nose of the left-hand and highest buttress. Start on the right and climb up until it is possible to step left around the nose then straight to the top The Slipper 7m HVD Scramble up the gully and climb the crack in the left wall. Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 31 st March Cinderella and the Ugly Sisters 121. Ugly Sister One 7m VS 4b Climb the arête on its left side. Looks easy doesn t it Pantomime 6m VD Climb the corner. F Fitzgerald, M Tooke and A Marr. 29 th January Ugly Sister Two 7m Severe Start at the toe of the right-hand buttress. Climb the diagonal line of flakes leftwards to an awkward exit Direct Start 6m S * Climb the shallow groove just to the right of the corner of Pantomine to join Ugly Sister Two at the finish. Nice climbing. Tony Marr 29 th January Whazzup 4m VS 5a Climb the edge of the steep arête on its right side. Bridging from the boulder reduces the grade to 4c. Tony Marr 21 st April Virgin Buttress A few metres further right is the final buttress on Barker's Crags The Virgin 6m VS 4c Climb the left wall by multitudinous flakes Flaked Out 6m E1 5b Start just left of the arête. Climb up to reach a flake and finish more easily. Richard Davies (solo) 25 th April Obsessions of the Mind 6m E2 6a Start just right of the arête. Gain the arête then swing left again and up to better holds and finally the top. Richard Davies (solo) 25 th April Hard Play 5m E2 5b Climbs the wall immediately left of Right Wall Route. Start at the same point as Obsessions of the Mind. Climb the overhanging wall trending right (fragile edges) to gain twin finger pockets. Commit to a long reach straight up, then leftwards, to finish on the nose. A serious climb; bold, strenuous and above a bad landing. Note: The holds/crack on Right Wall Route were not used, however, protection was placed in the crack. Tony Marr 8th January Virgin Buttress 130. Right Wall Route 5m S Climb the right wall of the buttress by a shallow corner/flake. 1970s 131. Hocus Pocus 5m HS Climb the blunt arête between Right Wall Route and the chimney of Back to Basics. Tony Marr (solo) 8th January Back to Basics 4m VD Ascend the chimney just to the right of Hocus Pocus Curtain Call 4m VS 5a The steep short wall to the right of Back to Basics. Steve Crowe 1990s 134. Final Curtain 4m HVD The arête right of Curtain Call is short but nice Virgin Buttress

10 264 North York Moors Scugdale, Barker's Stoney Wicks Crags 265 Scugdale, Stoney Wicks Stoney Wicks NZ A line of small but very pleasant buttresses lie about 200m further right. Many harder variations are possible. All dogs to be kept on a lead. 1. Introductory M Layback up the the LH alcove. 2. Layback Slab S * Climb the slab finishing to the right. Good. The next three climbs are very close to each other! 3. Crackers VD 4. Loopy VD 5. Loony VD Tombstone D Climb the left hand side. 14. Chagrin Left Font 6b+ SS on the lowest shelf. Climb the left arête of the Sepulchre buttress with a tricky deadpoint move to the mid-height break. Steve Ramsden 10th October Sepulchre HVD Climb the left arête. Stoney Wicks 16. Chagrin Right Font 6b+ SS on the lowest shelf. The right arête of the Sepulchre buttress. Steve Ramsden 10th October Toper's Trouble VD 7. Pick Pocket S Climb the middle of the slab on small but positive pockets. 8. Y-Crack VD * 9. Sobersides HVD 10. Free and Easy M 11. Nondescript VD 12. Lambda D The slanting crack. 17. Hanging Chimney VD 18. Waltzing Matilda M 19. Solitary D 20. Corner Climb VD 21. Twisting Crack M 22. Flake Slab D Follow the flake to the top. 23. Pocket Wall D Good pockets up the slab to the right of the flake Stoney Wicks