An interim guide. Ynys Lochtyn will be fully detailed in the forthcoming Climbers Club guide to Mid Wales (anticipated publication date of 2015)

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Dave Williams making an amazing journey on the first ascent of Beaj Iskis, HVS 4c Ynys Lochtyn An interim guide Ynys Lochtyn will be fully detailed in the

1 Dave Williams making an amazing journey on the first ascent of Beaj Iskis, HVS 4c Ynys Lochtyn An interim guide Ynys Lochtyn will be fully detailed in the forthcoming Climbers Club guide to Mid Wales (anticipated publication date of 2015) Doug Kerr Dave Williams making an amazing journey on the first ascent of Beaj Iskis HVS 4c

Page1 This is an interim guide to climbing on Ynys Lochtyn Doug Kerr/ Climbers Club Ynys Lochtyn and the neighbouring areas of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn and Pen Bilis will be fully documented in the

This publication will update the Meirionnydd (2002) guidebook and provide definitive coverage to new areas of Mid Wales such as Elenydd North and Elenydd South (including the entire Ceredigion Coast).

2 Page1 This is an interim guide to climbing on Ynys Lochtyn Doug Kerr/ Climbers Club Ynys Lochtyn and the neighbouring areas of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn and Pen Bilis will be fully documented in the forthcoming Climbers Club Mid Wales Guide / Meirionnydd Supplement. This publication will update the Meirionnydd (2002) guidebook and provide definitive coverage to new areas of Mid Wales such as Elenydd North and Elenydd South (including the entire Ceredigion Coast). In the meantime the climbing at Pen Trwyn Lochtyn and Pen Bilis (adjacent to Ynys Lochtyn) is fully detailed in the Climbers Club Pembroke North Volume 1, published in March This guidebook details a further 29 routes (from D to E3). Approach The small tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn lies 1.5 miles to the north east of the seaside village of Llangrannog in Ceredigion. Llangrannog is approached via the A487 from Aberystwyth (30 miles to the north east) or Cardigan (12 miles to the south west). For full details of the approach/car parking from Llangrannog please refer to the Climbers Club Guide Pembroke North Volume 1, see page 45. Ynys Lochtyn is the island situated just beyond the headland of Pen Trwyn Lochtyn. Ynys Lochtyn only becomes an island at high water. It is possible to cross to the island by means of a rocky beach, normally passable up to approximately 2.5 hours on either side of high water during neap tides but more time should be allowed during spring tides. The rocky beach is gained by an exposed and steep cliff path which leads down (in a south easterly direction) from the eastern tip of the peninsula. The path becomes extremely slippery when wet and care is advised under such conditions. Alternatively, an abseil stake can be used to make a 35 metre abseil into the narrows between the headland and island. All the climbs are described from Left to Right and in turn the cliffs are described from North to South Crown copyright: Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales Hawlfraint y Goron: Comisiwn Brenhinol Henebion Cymru

summer residence of bottlenose dolphins.

3 Page2 Did you know? Ceredigion's 80 km of coastline boasts some fine sandy beaches and high quality transparent sea water. Ceredigion is one of only two places in the United Kingdom with a permanent summer residence of bottlenose dolphins. Wikipedia Black Caviar, HS 4b, Doug Kerr on the first ascent The first ascent of Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves, S 4a, Dave Williams climbing Doug Kerr attempting to make the first ascent of Deep Blue, E1 5b, before rain stopped play

Stormborn Walls Left Hand Approach: Via an easy scramble down the rocky ridge and then by an abseil to the ledge (exposed at low tide) beneath Black Caviar.

4 Page3 The West Coast Stormborn Walls The Stormborn Walls are located at the far northern end of the island. The routes here are very condition dependent and all of the climbs require low tide, calm seas and a settled period of dry weather. Stormborn Walls Left Hand Approach: Via an easy scramble down the rocky ridge and then by an abseil to the ledge (exposed at low tide) beneath Black Caviar. The short slab to the left of Piano Tuna has been climbed in several places but the climbing does not warrant further detailed description. 1 Piano Tuna 12m VD Gain the hanging groove and finish direct 2 Black Caviar 15m HS 4b The quartz slab. 3 Salmon en Route 16m HVS 5a The sustained corner. 4 Tuna Hash 18m E1 5b The shallow groove with a hand traverse rightwards. 5 Fish Fingers 16m E1 5b The thin crack to finish up the hanging groove on the left. Prone to dampness. 6 Salt Water Cure 20m S 4a The left hand line which can also be started to the right at the same grade. 7 Creative Whiting 20m S 4a The centre of the slab. The next two routes are not shown on the photo-topo: 8 Fate Loves the Fearless 20m E1 5c The black slab gained by a traverse from Creative Whiting. Often wet and greasy. 9 Lemon Soul 20m HVS 5b The slanting chimney/corner which terminates the wall above a deep, narrow inlet.

Page4 Stormborn Walls Stormborn Walls Right Hand Approach: Is made from the south by descending a narrow slabby ramp and by traversing northwards along very slippery ledges. Low to mid tide required.

11 Paint it, Black 19m VS 4b The deep, shallow groove just to the right moving right to pull through the bulge. Hardly independent climbing.

5 Page4 Stormborn Walls Stormborn Walls Right Hand Approach: Is made from the south by descending a narrow slabby ramp and by traversing northwards along very slippery ledges. Low to mid tide required. The first two routes can also be approached directly by abseil. 10 Can You Tell What it is Yet? 19m VS 4c The slanting arête that overlooks Lemon Soul. 11 Paint it, Black 19m VS 4b The deep, shallow groove just to the right moving right to pull through the bulge. Hardly independent climbing. 12 Black Snapper 19m E2 5b The steep hanging groove with a bold start. 13 Big Guns 19m E3 5c The overhanging crack. 14 Little Miss Sunshine 18m E4 5c The overhanging wall is gained from the left. Steep and bold. 15 Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Climb 17m E4 6a The hard and blind overhanging wall. 16 Lochtyn Syndrome 15m VS 5a The corner is tricky at the top. 17 Dawnsio Ar Y Dibyn 15m HS 4a The shallow groove to the right stepping left to finish up the arête. 18 Born of a Broken Man 15m S 4a The left hand side of the short black arête.

Page5 Undercover Wall Approach: Is made from the south by descending a narrow slabby ramp (as for Stormborn Walls Right Hand). The routes here can be climbed at high tide.

1 Full Time 15m S 4a 2 The Last Time 15m HS 4b 3 Come in, Your Time is Up 15m VD 4a 4 Time on My Hands 15m S 4a 5 Time of Your Life 15m HS 4b The leftward trending flake.

6 Page5 Undercover Wall Approach: Is made from the south by descending a narrow slabby ramp (as for Stormborn Walls Right Hand). The routes here can be climbed at high tide. About Time HS 4b The left hand arête on its right hand side (not shown on the topo). 1 Full Time 15m S 4a 2 The Last Time 15m HS 4b 3 Come in, Your Time is Up 15m VD 4a 4 Time on My Hands 15m S 4a 5 Time of Your Life 15m HS 4b The leftward trending flake. 6 Out of Time 15m E2 5c Finish direct or more easily to the left at E2 5b. Yellow Wall This is the area of broken rock that lies between Undercover Wall and Quartz Wall. Approach: By abseil or via a scramble descent from either the south or from the north. A fairly low tide, with a calm sea, is required. The rock here can be climbed anywhere; other lines have been climbed but only the better ones are described here. Yellow Wall Left Hand 1 Dyddiau Melyn 30m VD Start 4m to the left of the corner/groove of Sgyl N Crosbons and climb direct. 2 Storm in a Sea Cup 30m VD This follows a narrow blocky pillar on the lower wall to finish direct. 3 Sgyl N Crosbons 30m D The initial quartz groove/corner and finish via the broken upper crack.

The broken lower walls have also been climbed but the climbing is of the go anywhere variety which does not warrant any further

7 Page6 Yellow Wall Right Hand Yellow Wall Right Hand is the short upper wall to the right of Sgyl N Crosbons. The routes can be climbed at all states of the tide. The broken lower walls have also been climbed but the climbing is of the go anywhere variety which does not warrant any further detailed description. 4 Cae Melyn 10m VD The groove. 5 Disruptive Elements 10m HS 4a 6 Spirit in Motion 10m S 4a 7 High Finance 10m S 4a 8 Room at the Bottom 10m D The quartz groove. 9 Cwyn y Gwynt 10m D The right hand groove.

Page7 Quartz Wall This lies at sea level to the right of Yellow Wall. Approach: By abseil or via a scramble descent and a straightforward sea level traverse from the north.

2 The Icing on the Cake 32m HVD A counter diagonal line. 3 Heulwen Cwarts 30m E1 5a Bold climbing up the slabby quartz wall.

8 Page7 Quartz Wall This lies at sea level to the right of Yellow Wall. Approach: By abseil or via a scramble descent and a straightforward sea level traverse from the north. Mid to low tide is required. 1 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves 30m S 4a The stepped quartz ramp. 1a A direct start gains the ramp at a higher point. 2 The Icing on the Cake 32m HVD A counter diagonal line. 3 Heulwen Cwarts 30m E1 5a Bold climbing up the slabby quartz wall. 4 Something Nasty in the Vault 30m VS 4c The deep corner/groove on the right. Recessed Wall This is the wall extending rightwards from Quartz Wall. Approach: At mid to low tide (calm seas required) by abseil or via a scramble/traverse from the north. 1 Hiraethu 30m VD The flake line which bounds the left edge of the wall. 2 We Know our Onions 30m S 4a 3 Boots, Boots, Boots 30m VD 4 West Coast Life 30m VD The shallow groove in the left wall of the recess. For the next routes there are good belays in the starting recess of West Coast Life. 5 All is Safely Gathered in 30m S 3c Climb direct from the recess (bold) and straight up the slabby wall. Finish more easily up the hanging groove. 6 The Day the Balloon Went Up 30m S 4a Step right and climb the left hand side of the slabby wall to finish up a shallow corner. 7 Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel 32m E2 5b A direct line up the right hand side of the slabby wall. Finish up the white quartz wall. 8 Beaj Iskis 35m HVS 4c The stepped corner is sustained.

Page8 Ocean Wall This is the compact buttress between Recessed Wall and Hidden Wall. The base of the wall is sea washed at all times so approach is made by abseil.

1 Faeroes 25m E1 5b Start just right of the arête before trending back left to gain and finish up the arête. 2 Fastnet 25m E1 5a Climb up and slightly rightwards from the belay.

9 Page8 Ocean Wall This is the compact buttress between Recessed Wall and Hidden Wall. The base of the wall is sea washed at all times so approach is made by abseil. Climbing is possible here at all states of the tide unless a big sea is running. Abseil down the face to take a hanging stance beneath the routes (peg and abseil rope belay). 1 Faeroes 25m E1 5b Start just right of the arête before trending back left to gain and finish up the arête. 2 Fastnet 25m E1 5a Climb up and slightly rightwards from the belay. 3 Malin 25m E2 5c The hanging groove with a hidden peg runner at its base. 4 Ocean Wild 33m VS 4c The corner between Ocean Wall and Hidden Wall gained at low tide from Hidden Wall. Hidden Wall This is the most southerly and extensive of the climbing locations on the island. Approach: A straightforward approach is made from the south via Upper Ramp. The majority of the routes can be climbed at high tide (in calm seas). 5 The Deep End 25m VD Gain and climb the indistinct quartz vein/flake. 6 Alone in the Deep 25m S 7 Into the Deep 25m VD Climb the short flake/shallow groove to finish up the vague crack line. 8 Deep Dark Ocean 25m HS 4b The blocky wall to finish up the obvious crack. 9 In too Deep 20m VS 4c The tiny hanging groove, finish direct.

14 Menace from the Deep 20m HVS 5a A difficult start then direct up the wall to finish up the quartz flake. 15 How Deep is Your Love 20m E1 5c A hard start on the right at 5c.

10 Page9 10 Lost in the Deep 20m HVS 5a The short groove followed by easier ground above the overlap. 11 Deep Blue 20m E1 5b 12 Asleep in the Deep 20m VS 4b 13 Deeply Dippy 20m VS 4c Start as for Asleep in the Deep but continue direct via the thin flake/crack. 14 Menace from the Deep 20m HVS 5a A difficult start then direct up the wall to finish up the quartz flake. 15 How Deep is Your Love 20m E1 5c A hard start on the right at 5c. The left hand start is 5b. The upper wall is easier. 16 Skipper s Permission 20m HVS 5a The chimney is often damp. 17 Flight of the Concrete Puffins 19m E3 6a The left side of the arête is steep and hard. HVS 5a on the right hand side. 18 Seal 19m VS 4c The narrow slab to a junction with the steep wall. Move left before making steep moves to gain easier ground. Or at VS 4b, move steeply right at the end of the slab and finish up the next route. 19 Call of the Concrete Puffins 18m HS 4b The short rib followed by the wall above. 20 Crab 17m S The corner. 21 Keep Young and Beautiful 17m HVS 5a The short hanging groove with a long reach to jugs on the left arête.

27 Sons of the Sea 15m E1 5a The wall to the right is bold. 28 The Deadly Attachment 18m E2 5b A rising traverse gains the niche.

11 Page10 22 When you ve Got to Go 15m HS 4b 23 You, Me and JD 15m HS 4a 24 The Test 15m HVS 4c The right hand side of the golden/yellow wall with a runner in the groove of Saudade at 4m. 25 Saudade 15m S 4a Climb direct up the shallow groove. 26 Branded 15m E1 5a The right hand side of the square cut recess. 27 Sons of the Sea 15m E1 5a The wall to the right is bold. 28 The Deadly Attachment 18m E2 5b A rising traverse gains the niche. Pull through the bulge and finish direct. 29 Man Hunt 15m E1 5b Gain the base of the shallow hanging groove directly via layaway flakes. Pull into the groove and finish over a slight bulge.

Move slightly right and then back left to finish up the shallow groove. 33 Dolphin 11m VD The twin angled corner can be climbed either on the left or on the right.

12 Page11 30 War Dance 15m E2 5c The wall, past a peg runner, to a rest. Climb up and rightwards to finish up the hanging groove. 31 Gorilla Warfare 14m E3 5c The groove, peg runner, to finish straight through the bulge, peg runner. 32 New Dads Army 14m E4 5c The short flake gains a jug. Move slightly right and then back left to finish up the shallow groove. 33 Dolphin 11m VD The twin angled corner can be climbed either on the left or on the right. To the right of Dolphin there is some bouldering and micro-routes on superb, sharp rock. The extensive lower wall beneath Upper Ramp provides some interesting climbing in the lower grades (on immaculate rock) with routes ranging from Moderate to Severe. Unfortunately, there are few natural lines, the climbing is very much of the go anywhere variety and further details are not provided here. The East Coast The cliffs on the East Coast of Ynys Lochtyn are quite broken. Lava Tree Wall and Topple Blocks may provide some shelter when the exposed west coast is experiencing high winds but climbing is not advised on the East Coast during the nesting season. Lava Tree Wall Approach to Lava Tree Wall is made by descending the rocky ridge just to the east of Stormborn Walls to sea level before traversing southwards along non-tidal rock ledges to the base of the wall. 1 Lochtyn The Lava Tree 7m VS 4b The corner, past a ledge, provides a very slight route.

Page12 Topple Blocks This lies a short distance to the south of Lava Tree Wall. The routes can be climbed at high tide with a short abseil from the sloping ledge to reach the base of the wall.

13 Page12 Topple Blocks This lies a short distance to the south of Lava Tree Wall. The routes can be climbed at high tide with a short abseil from the sloping ledge to reach the base of the wall. 2 Insect Inside 7m VS 4c The shallow groove. 3 Lucky Bag 7m VS 5a The corner. 4 Shooting Pains 8m VS 4b Traverse rightwards to finish up the arête. 5 Under Fire 7m E2 5b Straight up the slab from the start of Shooting Pains. Unprotected. First Ascents Dolphin William Connolley, Miriam Brod 16/08/2005 Crab William Connolley, Miriam Brod 16/08/2005 Seal William Connolley, Miriam Brod 17/08/2005 Right hand finish added by Dave Williams, Doug Kerr on 26/06/2012 Black Caviar Doug Kerr solo 20/06/2012 Time on my Hands Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 20/06/2012 Lochtyn the Lava Tree Dave Williams, Doug Kerr both solo 20/06/2012 Menace from the Deep Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 26/06/2012 Asleep in the Deep Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 26/06/2012 Deep Dark Ocean Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 26/06/2012 Lost in the Deep Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 29/06/2012 How Deep is Your Love Pete Trickey, Doug, Kerr, Dave Williams 29/06/2012 Right hand start added by Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez on 14/08/2012 Keep Young and Beautiful Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 29/06/2012 By a right hand variation. Climbed direct, as described, by Doug Kerr, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez, Pete Trickey on 14/08/2012 Deeply Dippy Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 05/07/2012 Flight of the Concrete Puffins Pete Trickey unseconded 05/07/2012 Deep Blue Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 05/07/2012 Into the Deep Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 05/07/2012 The Deep End Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 05/07/2012 The Day the Balloon Went Up Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 20/07/2012

14 Page13 Hiraethu Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 20/07/2012 West Coast Life Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 20/07/2012 Round and Round Went the Great Big Wheel Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 20/07/2012 Heavy the Beat of Weary Waves Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 20/07/2012 Direct start Doug Kerr solo on 17/09/2012 Beaj Iskis Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey 27/07/2012 Something Nasty in the Vault Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 27/07/2012 Heulwen Cwarts Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 27/07/2012 Ocean Wild Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey 27/07/2012 Alone in the Deep Doug Kerr solo 14/08/2012 In Too Deep Doug Kerr, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez, Pete Trickey 14/08/2012 Skipper s Permission Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez 14/08/2012 Call of the Concrete Puffins Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez 14/08/2012 Boots, Boots, Boots Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 12/09/2012 We Know our Onions Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 12/09/2012 Come in, your Time is Up Doug Kerr solo 12/09/2012 Time of your Life Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 12/09/2012 Lochtyn Syndrome Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 12/09/2012 Dawnsio Ar Y Dibyn Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 12/09/2012 The Icing on the Cake Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 17/09/2012 Spirit In Motion Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 17/09/2012 Room at the Bottom Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 17/09/2012 Cwyn Y Gwynt Dave Williams, Doug Kerr both solo 17/09/2012 High Finance Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 17/09/2012 Out of Time Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 17/09/2012 Left hand finish by Doug Kerr, Sy Finch on 22/02/2013 Born of a Broken Man Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 17/09/2012 Full Time Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 17/09/2012 About Time Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 01/10/2012 The Last Time Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 01/10/2012 Sgyl N Crosbons Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 01/10/2012 Storm in a Sea Cup Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 01/10/2012 Dyddiau Melyn Dave Williams, Doug Kerr both solo 01/10/2012 Disruptive Elements Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 01/10/2012 Cae Melyn Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 01/10/2012 Creative Whiting Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 10/10/2012 Fastnet Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 15/10/2012

15 Page14 Salt Water Cure Dave Williams, Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey 24/10/2012 Variation start by Doug Kerr solo on 25/05/2013 Shooting Pains Doug Kerr solo 24/10/2012 Insect Inside Dave Williams, Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr 24/10/2012 Branded Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 24/10/2012 The Deadly Attachment Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 24/10/2012 You, Me and JD Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 01/11/2012 When you ve Got to Go Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 01/11/2012 The Test Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 01/11/2012 Man Hunt Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 01/11/2012 Sons of the Sea Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 13/11/2012 Salmon en Route Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 15/11/2012 Piano Tuna Doug Kerr, Dave Williams both solo 15/11/2012 Tuna Hash Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 15/11/2012 Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Climb Pete Trickey unseconded 15/11/2012 Black Snapper Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey 30/11/2012 Saudade Dave Williams, Doug Kerr 10/12/2012 War Dance Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 10/01/2013 Gorilla Warfare Doug Kerr, Sy Finch, Dave Williams 16/01/2013 New Dads Army Pete Trickey unseconded 16/01/2013 Lemon Soul Doug Kerr, Sy Finch 22/02/2013 Fate Loves the Fearless Sy Finch, Dave Williams 04/03/2013 Under Fire Doug Kerr solo 05/04/2013 Lucky Bag Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Pete Trickey 05/04/2013 Malin Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 06/04/2013 Faeroes Doug Kerr, Dave Williams 06/04/2013 Can You Tell What it is yet? Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Sy Finch 23/04/2013 Paint it, Black Doug Kerr, Dave Williams, Sy Finch 23/04/2013 Big Guns Doug Kerr, Sy Finch 23/04/2013 Little Miss Sunshine Pete Trickey, Doug Kerr, Sy Finch 25/05/2013 Fish Fingers Doug Kerr, Pete Trickey 25/05/2013 All is Safely Gathered In Doug Kerr, Gareth Williams 25/05/2013 Acknowledgements: A special thanks to Dave Williams for his help. Thanks to: Don Sargeant for his artwork, William Connolley, Miriam Brod, Pete Trickey, Anyela Camargo-Rodriguez, Sy Finch, Terry Taylor and Elfyn Jones. Thanks also to Mark Davies who inadvertently started a chain of events in May 2012 which led to the re-discovery and further development of the island. Comments and feedback on any of the routes would be appreciated : dougkerr5@hotmail.com Doug Kerr/Climbers Club

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