RockTopos. Rock Climbing Guide Costa Blanca Murla

Transcription

1 Rock Climbing Guide Costa Blanca A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos Published (Revision 7)

2 Information: English All rights reserved. Copyright RockTopos Every effort has been made to make this publication as accurate as possible however the information provided is on an as-is basis. The descriptions of routes and the grades are recorded to assist the climber to attempt routes within their ability. Where the correct route name is not known a substitute is added in brackets (). The publication of this topo does not imply any right of access or right to climb on this cliff. The author does not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties or property arising from the use of the information provided in this publication. New information and updates to this guide are available at If you have any comments, additional routes or corrections please these to Información: Español Todos los derechos reservados. RockTopos del copyright. Se ha hecho cada esfuerzo de hacer esta publicación tan exacta como sea posible sin embargo la información proporcionada está sobre una base como está. Las descripciones de rutas y de los grados se registran al assit el trepador para procurar las rutas dentro de su capacidad. Donde el nombre correcto de la ruta no se sabe un substituto se agrega en soportes (). La publicación de este topo no implica la ninguna derecha del acceso o la derecha de subir en este acantilado. El autor no reconoce ninguna responsabilidad por lesión o el daños causada a, o cerca, los trepadores, los terceros o característica presentándose del uso de la información proporcionada en esta publicación. Para mas información y actualización de esta guida pules encontrarla en: Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones: rocktopos@hotmail.com Acknowledgements Thanks to Pedro, Juan and Blasco for introducing me to the crag. Also mention should go to David Mora who has recently been replacing the belays on many of the routes. Page 2 Copyright RockTopos 2009

3 RockTopos A newly discovered and developing crag about 25km north of Calpe in the Jalon Valley. This is the place to visit if you find the Costa Blanca too easy. The central section of the crag is very undercut and then gets steeper. The climbing is characterised by sharp pockets and on many routes there is gear in-situ to give you a chance to climb a-vista. For the seasoned indoor wall climber there is the perfect route, Bailando Con Tu Puta Madre using familiar bolt on holds. The routes are short, steep and hard for their grades. GENERAL APPROACH Travel north from Benidrom/Calpe along the N332 towards Benisa and take the turning to Jalon and Alcalali. Follow the CV745 to Jalon turning right turn at the garage and left at the roundabout, to gain the bypass. Continue for 3km towards the town of Alcalali where the road comes to a T junction. Turn left and then immediately take the first right signed Pego. Continue along the road (passing Alcalali crag on the bend) to a second T junction. Take the right turn towards Orba. The crag is clearly visible up on the right along this road. After 1km turn right into the Pueta de Valle villa development and keep on the main road until past the houses and level with the crag. On reaching a green substation take the right turn along a new road (if allowed) and park next to the concrete building. If the road is blocked off park here and walk along the road. At the concrete building find the footpath leading off from behind the back and in less than 5 minutes the crag is reached. Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 3

4 ASPECT AND CLIMATE The crag is divided into four sections. The first section is quite short and has some fierce, technical routes. The Main Sector is both higher and very much steeper. This sector overlooks the villa development. Around the corner Crazy Wall Sector is a series of slabby and vertical walls facing due south. This sector provides the easiest climbing on the entire crag. Down and further along the hillside is a longer and the highest, most impressive part of the crag which is largely undeveloped at present. The rock is of excellent quality but can be very rough and much of the climbing is on sharp pockets and tufas. You will find that your hands are sore and your muscles are tired after a day climbing here. Page 4 Copyright RockTopos 2009

5 RockTopos Sector 1: Izquierda This sector is above the approach path and is in the shade in the morning until 2pm. The section is more sheltered from the wind than the other sections. 1.? 6c+ 7m. A steep line on sharp pockets. Pull up through the roof and move left to gain better holds. After this it s much easier up to the belay. 2. Pichito Moruno 7a 10m. Start as for route 1 but climb straight up the diagonal line. Hard for the grade. 3.? 12m. Hard start and finger climbing up the wall. 6c Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 5

6 4.? 6c+ 12m. A harder start after which it easies slightly. 5.? 12m. The corner line to the right finishing at the belay of the previous route. 6c 6. Holds? What holds? 12m Start off the ledge to the right. A hard start leads to a good hold after which the title becomes appropriate. Richard Davies, December a Blasco overcoming the steep start on the unnamed Route 1 (6c+) Page 6 Copyright RockTopos 2009

7 RockTopos 7.? 7b+ 15m. Start below the roof and pull though to gain a large tufa. Climb this and the steep wall above. Eases after 2/3rds way. 8.? 15m. Climb the large corner line up to the roof. Pull through this. 9.? Start as for the last route but move to the right arête. Climb up this. 7b+? Project Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 7

8 Sector 2: Main Wall Right again past some boulders on the path the cliff steepens dramatically. 1.? 8a+ 15m. Pocket line with in-situ gear. Very good route. 2. La Chaqueta Hidraulica 15m. 8a 3.? 15m. Hard start and follow the painfully pocketed crack line soaring rightwards though the bulge. 7c 4.? 8a+ 15m. The pockets up the wall to the right to the block, cut across the steep wall on small pocketsand joining the previous route at the top. 5.? 15m. The first of two parallel lines. Project Page 8 Copyright RockTopos 2009

9 RockTopos 6.? 15m. 7.? 15m Project Project 8. Bailando Con Tu Puta Madre 15m.Use 4 bolt on holds to climb the barrel wall. A very good route in spit of the artificial holds. There is now a gap of 10m. 7b 9.? 12m. Line up the tufas. 8a 10.? 8a+ 12m. Line to the right. Start up good tufas until difficulties passing a broken hold. Eases above. Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 9

10 11.? 7c+ 15m. 4m to the right. Hard boulder problem to leave the ground leads to good holds. Fight up the tufa above and through the bulges to the belay. An excellent and sustained route. From the belay of the previous route a roof extends to the right for 10m. 12.? 15m. Climb the wall to the right and pull though the right side of the roof at the top. 8a 13.? 7c+ 15m. Fingery and technical climbing up the less steep, smooth wall to the right. 14.? 15m. A sparsely bolted line to the right. Project 15.? 7c+ 15m. Tackle the bulge to a good horizontal slot. Climb the groove above. 10 meters further right is 16.? Project 15m. Start behind the tree and bush. Past a peg follow the line of pockets diagonally rightwards. Page 10 Copyright RockTopos 2009

11 RockTopos 17.? 15m. Direct to the belay on route 18. Project 18.? 15m. Climb the pockets through the bulging wall. Once in the top bulge left and up to belay. 7c 19. The Last Bicep 7b+ 10m. The hanging groove 3m to the right. Start on the right of the first bolt, move up and left into the groove, finish up the right-hand crack. Richard Davies January m further right the rock gets a little less steep. Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 11

12 The routes look much easier, but in typical fashion they are still steep and pumpy. 20. Tendonator 15m. Start at a shallow corner. Reach a pocket which is just a bit too high up for most and make a hard move off the ground to gain better holds and then pull through the roof to jugs. Cross the wall rightwards and go straight up the final wall using the difficult to find good pockets. Richard Davies December b 21.? 6c+ 15m. This route is a harder 7a if you climb left of the first bolt. Start to the right for the easier option. Passing the hole at 3m is the most difficult part then follow the groove above to a belay. 22.? 6c+ 15m. Climb the short wall and pull through the bulging rock above. Page 12 Copyright RockTopos 2009

13 RockTopos Sector 3: Beginner s Wall This smaller wall is located up and right of the main crag. Follow the path to the right to below the wall. Around the edge to the right is another section of good quality rock. This provides the easiest climbing at. 1.Scary Movie 6a+ 11m. Start in the center of the wall. Stand on the flake and pull through the bulge to reach the break. More easy to the belay. Richard Davies April Via Segundo 6a 11m. 1 st of two parallel lines up the middle of the wall. Easier if climbed on the right of the bolts. 3. Via Primaria 5+ 11m. 2 nd of the lines to the same belay. Move left to the shared belay. 4. Crazy for You 5+ 11m. Climb the cleaned flake right of Via Primaria on good holds up steep rock to a lower-off on the right. Pete Eccles, Pat Booth December 2009 Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 13

14 5. Loco Loco 6b 11m. 3m right of the last climb at a corner/flake. Start up the corner moving left to the first bolt. Sharp fingery moves lead over a bulge to the shared lower-off. Pete Eccles, December 2009 Page 14 Copyright RockTopos 2009

15 RockTopos Sector 4: Crazy Wall To the right is a smooth section of wall left of a cave. Crazy Wall is the section of rock to the right. The rock is perfect limestone and all the routes are worth the walk in. 1.? 6a+ 10m. The edge of the wall close to the flake. 2.? 6b+ 10m. The parallel line to the right to finish at the belay of the previous route. Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 15

16 Richard Davies on a repeat of Spanish Holiday (6c+) 3. Crazy Crazy 10m. Climb from block and step right. Pull straight through the bulge and continue more easily up the pleasant wall to the belay. Richard Davies - September c 4. Spanish Holiday 6c+ 10m. Start as for Crazy Crazy. Step further right and climb to the obvious hole high in the wall. Finish at the belay of the last route. Richard Davies - September Atchata 7b+ 10m. Start to the right on the edge of the cave. The move through the bulge is extremely powerful on tiny undercuts. It can be climbed with 1 point of aid at a pleasant 6c. Richard Davies - April 2004 The next climb is on the wall right of the cave entrance. Page 16 Copyright RockTopos 2009

17 RockTopos 6. Red October 12m. Start right of the big cave at a cut-out and take a left slanting crack to get established on the wall. Climb this direct. Al s first try at bolting a new sport route. Alan Austin c Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 17

18 Sector 5: Meyor Izquierda Page 18 Copyright RockTopos 2009

19 RockTopos The next section of routes are further along the edge. From Sector Crazy Wall follow a cairned path down and below a rocky rib. Continue along below the shorter wall until the smooth rock of Meyor Izquierda is visible. 1. Wall Route 1 6b+ 15m. Start of the boulder behind the tree. Pull left to good holds and pass the thin slab to the break. Continue up the upper wall on good holds to the belay. 2. Wall Route 1 15m. Start of the same boulder but pull right (crux) to good holds. Move up and pass the bulge on good holds. Continue to the same belay as the previous route. 6c Al Austin climbing Wall Route 1 (6b+) Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 19

20 Sector 6: Meyor Central Continue along the path for a further 20 metres below the buttress, which again get steeper m. Unfinished line 6m right of the large hanging corner. Project 2. 8b+? 18m. An impressive line up the centre of the steepest part of the cliff. 3.? 18m. Climb the wall to gain an obvious crack higher up. 4.? 18m. A parallel line to the right using a few improved holds. 5. 7b+ 18m. Starting below the left-hand side of a roof at 12m, climb the wall to this. Pass it to reach the belay. Page 20 Copyright RockTopos 2009

21 RockTopos 6. 7b+ 18m. Climb into a shallow groove and up to a good break. Make a very hard move to gain good holds above and step up to the roof. Pull past this and left to the belay. 7.? (7b) 18m. Start right of the shallow groove. Climb the wall and pull past a bulge to gain a good pocket. Continue up the wall above. Richard Davies on the crux move of the unnamed Route 6 (7b+) Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 21

22 Page 22 Copyright RockTopos 2009

23 RockTopos Graded List 8b+ 8b 8a+ 8a 7c+ 7c 7b+ 7b 7a+ 7a 6c+ 6c 6b+ 6b 6a+ 6a Copyright RockTopos 2009 Page 23

24 RockTopos climbing guides are intended to provide documented information, directions and details of routes for the rock climbing at the cliff or area covered by the guide. The guides are intended to supplement the published guides to these climbing areas. The guides will be updated to reflect new routes and to provide current access details. RockTopos guides may be obtained by free download from the Internet. RockTopos guides may be distributed free of charge. A free rock climbing guide provided by RockTopos Published Page 24 Copyright RockTopos 2009