El Flare - Abdet - Topo - Updated February 2008

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1 El Flare - Abdet - Topo - Updated February 2008 produced by El Flare Buttresses - A great selection of routes in a beautiful setting that would provide several days entertainment for most mid grade climbers. Some great wall climbing as well as some steep routes on sector Olbidada and High Buttress. The unusual "rib" on the Gossos buttress provides a couple of unique routes. And the stalagtites in Piedra Liquido are not to be missed. There are several trad routes here that are well worth doing, so be sure to bring a selection of nuts and cams. The new Jabali sector offers super easier grade routes. Also look out for the wild boar footprints down the track. You may well see a few of these wondering down the track at dusk if you are lucky! Photo: Bruce Jardine on the first ascent of Piedra Liquida CONTACT US FOR FREE PRINTABLE PDF VERSION! Access - Drive beyond Guadalest (towards Alcoy) on the CV70, take the sign for L'abdet a few km's before reaching Confrides. You can also access from the Alcoy side or from Sella (40 minutes). After turning off the main road follow the twisting road down to Abdet and you will pass a minor track on the left just after the bridge (park in one of several areas on the right of the road just beyond, or in the village itself). Walk back to the track and follow it past a hairpin. Jabali sectors are up through the woods here, whilst the main wall is further long this track taking the right fork just past a house. There appears to be no access problems, but please respect the area and leave it tidy. El Arco sector is accessed from main road. Aspect - South West, Jabali sectors face East and South, El Arco sector faces East, and climbing is possible all year round. They lie at an altitude of 720 Metres. Facilities - Check out the local bars in Abdet and Confrides, self catering accommodation is available in Abdet - see 1 sur :42

2 Gossos and Spanish Daze Buttresses These buttresses lie along the track past the main face- follow it along until a hairpin bend back right, take this turn and follow the track to another hairpin beneath Orange Wall (Pared Naranja). Follow faint track up to Orange Wall and take a route up the left side of Orange wall to reach thge foot of Gossos Buttress.You will see the amazing "rib" of Gossos Pillar. Spanish Daze Buttress (1) Spanish Haze S 4a 20m. Climb steeply up the right slanting crack behind the obvious bush. Keep trending in the same direction into the obvious pocketed scoop at the top. Good nut and cam protection. FA 18/3/2005 Bruce Jardine, Joshua Jardine, Connor Jardine (2) Spanish Daze VD 3a 20m. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and climb large blocks to gain the slabs, climb direct to the top. FA 29/12/ Tom Phillips/Matthew Phillips/Dick Gerrish 100 Metres further right is (3) Posterior del Perro VS 4c 20m. Climbs past the open "caves" on the left of the rib. Bridge up the two caves and move right to finish up grooves. FA 13/3/ Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine (4) Costillo del Perro E1 5b 20m. Climbs directly up the outside of the "rib". Start from a position between the crag and the "rib" and make moves past a bolt runner to a position on the very edge of the rib. Climb directly up the rib and then up the fine upper slab. FA 29/12/ Tom Phillips/Dick Gerrish (5) Gossos Pillar VS 4b 20m. A unique and exciting route - bridge up between the pillar and crag (bold) until moves can be made rightwards to gain the layback crack in a very exposed position. Climb the slabs direct to the top. FA 1/11/04 - Tom Phillips/Dan Drew (6) Dan's Dilemma HS 4a 2 sur :42

3 15m. Start from broken ledge on the right side of the Buttress, love up and left onto the arête in a fine position, climb direct to the top - tape and sling belays FA 1/11/04 - Tom Phillips/Dan Drew Orange Wall - Pared Naranja This wall is easily reached as described for Gossos and Spanish Daze. Look for the unusual kissing Tortoises formation on the right! (1) El Gecko con Pied Blanco y Negro m. The left hand line up the orange wall is much better than appearances woudl suggest. It has been well cleaned FA 20/2/2008 Tom and Matthew Phillips (2) La Tortuga m. A tricky move onto the rib and a steeper finish to lower off FA 20/2/2008 Tom and Matthew Phillips Placa Principal - Main Wall This section is easily reached by following the track past the house and taking the right fork. (1) Uno m. The first line to lower off First Ascent Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips, Bruce Jardine, Joshua Jardine, Connor Jardine. Easter 2007 (2) Project sur :42

4 8m. (3) Flared a+ 20m. Bring out your big cams for this one! The crack starts steep and gnarly, and gets steeper and more gnarly - excellent. There is a good chockstone to thread. Belay well back using nuts and tapes. First Ascent Tom Phillips and Dan Drew 29/10/04 (4) Project m. (5) Can yon do it like this? a 20m. A steep route with long reaches! First Ascent Mark Edwards 31/10/2007 (6) Viva Abdet a+ 30m. A great line with continual interest and a steep finish. Move up and left passing a small ledge to gain the flake. Continue straight up passing a bulge near the top on superb pockets. Avoid the use of the dubious flakes on the right of the route. The route is 6a WITHOUT the use of these. First Ascent Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05 Sector Luiquida - Routes 3, 4 and 5 (Sector Liquida) start in a bay to the left of Via Almendra. Take care accessing this bay. There is a belay ring at the bottom of route 5. (7) Piedra Líquida.... 6a+ 25m. Magnificent climbing up the amazing flowstone and stalactites just right of the corner. A steep starting move over the initial roof leads to an easier section. Steep moves up the first section of stalactites leads to a difficult clip (avoid moving into the boulder filled corner!). Now move back right past the final bolt in order to clip the lower off. Finishing direct is harder, probably 6b+ First Ascent Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips 12/03/05 (8) Desviado b+ 25m. Climb past the small tree and up the groove of calcited blocks and flowstone (thread and tape runners). Finally move left to find a couple of good holds that allow access to the overhanging finger crack, steep and fierce! the crux is getting stood on the ledge above the finger crack. First Ascent Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 12/03/05 (9) Gema Ocultado m. A cunning line starting at the lowest part of the rib. Climb up until it is possible to bridge up the gully for a few moves (use of the tree is allowed!). Then a hold on the left wall allows moves to be made up to the arête. Continue up to a tricky last move to the lower off point. FATom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 12/03/05 (10) Via Almendra a+ 35m A stunning line up the imposing pillar that leans out over the track. Start to the right of the pillar and an traverse across until a few steep moves allow access to the crack that runs to the top of the pillar. It is just possible to abseil to the starting ledge with a 60 Metre rope. Rock is much better than appearances suggest! FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05 (11) Marques de Monistrol a sur :42

5 35m Start in the gully, bridge up until better holds allow you to swing out onto the main face. Huge pockets and jugs lead to thinner moves on the face above. Move up then right to gain a large ledge and belay rings. The top pitch is easy but still worthwhile. Can just be done in one pitch FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005 (12) Círculo Blanco a+ 30m. Direct through the bulge at the left side of the main face, again has a little sting in the tail FA Tom Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05 (13) Sin Cava a+ 30m. Takes a direct line up the steep main face. Very sustained and with a little sting in the tail FA Tom Phillips and Steve Rogers 21/4/05 (14) Via Jardin a 40m. Weaves it's way up the big wall with tricky starting moves. Finishes by moving right onto the top of the pillar. As this route is is about 40 metres long you may want to split it at the half way point (belay rings in place). FA Tom Phillips/Bruce Jardine 10/03/05 (15) San Miguel b 30m. This superb route take the sustained steep pillar begining the tree. Take care at the start to avoid the loose gully on the right. From the top of the pedestal launch up the face, 30 metres of 6a moves to the lower off! A quality Spanish product. FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish /8/2005 (16) Mahou a 5m. A short technical route - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the steep slope (care) beneath routes 3 and 4. FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005 (17) Fink Brau m. Climb the obvious groove direct - Belay at the ring bolt at the top of the steep slope (care) beneath routes 3 and 4. FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005 (18) Sin Alcohol HVS 20m. From the ring bolt climb up and left to the arête (two bolt runners). Then climb direct taking to obvious crack through the small overhang. FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, 12/8/2005 (19) Buckler HVS 20m. From the ring bolt climb the groove to a ledge - move right two opposing flakes before trending left to the belay. FA Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish, Sarah Gerrish, Sharon Gerrish 14/8/2005 El Flare Buttress This buttress gives some excellent routes, all have twin bolt lower offs. Routes are around 25 Metres long. Routes 4 and 5 require nuts and cams 5 sur :42

6 (1) Project m. (2) Knock on Wood c 22m. An easy start leads to thin moves to gain the edge of the large sloping ledge, which is tricky to get onto. Then steep moves up the top section on good but widely spaced holds lead to an easier finish. FA 30/12/05 Tom Phillips, Dick Gerrish (3) New Years Revolutions b+ 25m. Climb past the large flakes and tackle some hard moves through the overlaps - the crux is moving up and left to pass the first overlap. Move back right to reach easier ground - lower off from top. FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips 4) Second of the First a+ 25m. Climb to the flakes and make a bold step right to reach a sequence of good holds on the steep wall - lower off from top. FA 1/1/05 Dick Gerrish and Tom Phillips (5) El Placa a 25m Straight up the steep wall, stepping right onto the top arête in a great position - lower off from top. FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew (6) Flare Corner E1 5b 25m. Thin moves up and right allow entry to the corner - The E1 grade allows you to clip the first bolt on route 3 - great climbing up the corner, step right under the roof to gain the upper wall - lower off from top FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew (7) The Trundle HS 4b 20m. Climb the right rib and ledges to lower off. Named after the mega trundle whilst cleaning the route - see movie clips FA 28/10/2004 Tom Phillips and Dan Drew 6 sur :42

7 Placa Olbidada This hidden wall provides short but steep routes on superb rock. It is approached by walking underneath El Flare Buttress and scrambling up the gully underneath the wall. Ideal on hot days as it stays in shade until late in the day. Routes are described from the bottom of the gulley upwards (1) Snakes Alive! 7a 12m. Steep, with the crux between clips 1 and 3. The crags first 7a FA Julian Maund 02/01/07 (2) Vieja Cabeza Grande 6b+ 15m. A thin start and a tricky finish FA Michael Brohan, Jarek Svoboda 28/11/2006 (3) Via Central a+ 15m. Bridge up using the boulder to clip the first bolt - sustained. FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 26/08/05 (4) Czech This Out 6b 16m. Direct up to the crack high on the head wall FA Jarek Svoboda, Michael Brohan 28/11/2006 (5) Last of the Last b+ 13m. A hard start to gain the small ledge, then climb the sequence of tufa holds before a steep finish. FA Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross 31/12/05 (6) Via Izquierda m. Step off the small boulder and climb the left arete, use of the jamed boulders in the gully lowers the grade. FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 26/08/05 La Bahia This section provides a variety of short routes on some excellent sharp rock, as well as an easy traditional route up the classic ramp line of "The Bat" (El Murciélago). The best approach is by traversing through the woods from Jabali sector (passing Dias Halcon Butress) 7 sur :42

8 (1) Clear Air Stirs a A Short route on perfect rock just left of centre. FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2006 (2) Virgin on the impossible a+ The right line on this short butress is a sequence of powerful moves to easier ground FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 24/Aug/2006 (3) Real Art Crisis c Traverse out on a thin sequence of holds to a great position above the overhangs. Finish direct to lower off FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2006 (4) Project (5) Scarier Trials b+ Sustained climbing directly up the centre of the face. FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 01/Sep/2005 (6) Paraiso a+ The right hand line on this butress. Climb the first section using holds on the arete, before moving left and tackling the delightful high corner FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 24/Aug/2006 (7) Enganoso b A lone route up the middle of the steep butress at the right of the arch sector. climb the large boulder to a thread then direct up the steep wall to an easier finish. Shares the lower of with el murciélago. FA Tom Phillips, John Le Seve 22/Aug/2006 (8) El Murciélago VD 4a Takes the obvious hanging slab and climbs over a small bulge at the top to bolt lower off FA Tom Phillips, Sam Mulhall, Neil Mulhall, Matthew Phillips 15/Aug/2006 JABALI SECTORS These sectors lie close to the road leading into Abdet. Due to the fact that the climbing is on pillars you can get shade or sun until around midday, and then they come into shade again in the evening. They offer good climbing at an easy standard. The left sectors are bolted whilst the right sectorshave some easy trad. Walk up the El flare track until you reach the wood. Then follow a track up as marked on the topo to reach the buttresses. All routes have lower off points. Dias Halcòn Butress lies 50 metres to the left of the upper pillar. DIAS HALCÒN BUTRESS This small butress lies about 50 metres to the left of the two main pillars of Jabali sector. Although very short the routes are on immaculate rock and are very worthwhile. (1) El Cernícalo a 6m. The very left hand route. FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (2) Dias Halcòn a 7m. The next route has a tricky start, climb up then back right (shares lower off with 3) FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (3) La Aguila m. Start at the lowest point of the butress and climb the left side of the arete FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (4) Gavilán sur :42

9 11m. The steep fornt face just right of the arete FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips Jabali MAIN SECTOR The Main Sectors at Jabali consist of two dome shaped pinacles. The routes are up to 28 Metres long, and most are at a reasonable angle on superb rock. The Wave Sector lies between the two pinacles. You can usually climb in sun or shade until midday, and again in evening. From midday until late afternoon most routes are in the sun. There are a few traditional lines following unusual strata/fault lines here so bring along some nuts and cams. The area is very unspoilt with great views down the Guadalest valley to the Bernia Ridge. Please respect the area and be sure to take all your litter with you. UPPER PILLAR (1) El Borde sur :42

10 25m. The very left hand route on the upper pillar. Right on the edge! Start a couple of metres up the gully and swing out onto the left edge, it has one tricky move at half height. FA 4/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (2) El Punto m. The next route right has a steep start before mvoing left to an obvious spike. Climb up and then back right (shares top bolts and lower off with the next route) FA 4/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (3) La Rampa m. Start up the small left sloping ramp and then climb direct to the top FA 3/06/06 - Bruce Jardine/Tom Phillips (4) Potosi m. The next route through the small bulge. FA 21/10/05 - Tom Phillips/Martyn Hurn (5) La Paz m. A good long route direct up the face. FA 21/10/05 - Tom Phillips/Martyn Hurn Bruce Jardine on the first ascent of Dias Halcòn (6) Uyuni m. Tackles the wall and rib starting at the lowest part of the buttress. Trend right up the groove near the top to lower off FA 21/10/05 - Tom Phillips/Martyn Hurn WAVE SECTOR (7) Primera Ola Climb the lower slab and then the steep wall to the left of the wide crack. continue direct across a slighty broken section to a high finish. 9 bolts to lower off. FA Bruce Jardine, Tom Phillips 29/Aug/2006 (8) Segunda Ola a Easy start up the lower slab and then the steep wall direct. FA Bruce Jardine, Tom Phillips 29/Aug/2006 First ascent of Potosi - Jabali Sector (9) Nueva Ola Start in the recess and pass a thread to tackle the bulge on it's left side (crux). Step onto the ramp and climb the fine upper wall to lower off. Easier if the bulge is taken on the right (4+) FA Bruce Jardine, Tom Phillips 30/Aug/2006 (10) Ola de Calor VS 4b Climb up to the left hand crack and follow this into the corner and up to the wide crackand easy finishing slab. Nuts and large cams FA Bruce Jardine, Tom Phillips 30/Aug/2006 (11) Onda Gravitacional HVS 4b Climb up to the thread at the foot of the cave and then follow the obvious crack all the way to the lower off. Small and medium nuts FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 30/Aug/2006 (12) A Través de las Olas VS 4a Start in the recess and climb across the two crack lines to reach the foot of a groove. Climb this or slightly easier the wall just on its left. FA Tom Phillips, Bruce Jardine 30/Aug/2006 LOWER PILLAR (13) Vientre del Jabali b+ 15m. On the right side of the bay on the back of the lower pillar there is a steep line. Climb directly on sharp positive holds through the bulges, deceptively steep. First Ascent of Vientre del Jabali 10 sur :42

11 FA 14/02/06 - Tom Phillips/Colin Crcckart (14) Lovely Jabali m. The classic arete gives one of the best grade 5's in the valley. Start just right of the arete - climb up to meet the arete and follow this to the top FA 01/01/06 - D Gerrish, S Gerrish, A Shawcross, E Shawcross, T Phillips, Lee G (15) Troters Trading a 24m. Start one metre right and climb up past a thin section just left of the bulge, join the arete for the last few moves to the lower off. FA 02/01/06 - D Gerrish, S Gerrish, A Shawcross, E Shawcross, T Phillips, Lee G (16) Bacon Beauty m. The next line right starting up the rib and then making a tricky move right. Steeper than it looks. FA 02/01//06 - D Gerrish, S Gerrish, A Shawcross, E Shawcross, T Phillips, Lee G (17) Costilla del Jabali m. Start just right of the small bay, follow the steep wall and then step left to at the foot of the hidden slab on to the steep right arete of the top wall. FA 24/02/06 - Tom Phillips (18) La Placa Ocultado m. Start just left of the right rib of the butress, gain the right rib a few metres up, follow this and climb the clean slab direct (possible belay) before pulling left via good holds on steep ground to gain the upper wall. FA 24/02/06 - Tom Phillips Lovely Jabali - Feb 2006 (19) El Placa Ocultado m. Start to the right of the rib, pass a useful small thread and bolt before gaining the rib. Follow this to the top of the clean slab, lower off. FA 24/02/06 - Tom Phillips EASY BUTTRESS 30 Metres to the right is an easy angled butress with 4 traditional routes. All share the same lower off point. (20) Roller VS 18 m. The left hand line climbs the blunt arete, with a thread runner (in situ) reaching huge holds before the pull onto the upper face. FA Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips 29/10/2006 (21) Hoopoe VD 18m. Takes an easy line of in situ threads just right of the corner, and then the corner/crack up to the lower off FA Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips 29/10/2006 Segunda Ola (22) Buho S 28m. Climb the lower flowstone wall to a broad ledge and then the upper wall, trend left and then direct (thread runners). Pull onto a high slab just right of the corner/crack of the previous route FA Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips 31/10/2006 (23) Curruca HS 28m. The right hand line takes the right end of the lower flowstone wall to the broad ledge, and then the steep wall (thread runner). Finish up the top arete or just left of it (thread runner) to lower off FA Tom Phillips, Matthew Phillips 20/10/2006 HIGH BUTRESS This is gained via a traverse across Easy Butress and then via a fixed rope up a short gully, the steep wall gives great technical climbing. For a good view climb up to top of gully and scramble up left. 9m. The line at the top of the gully, (24) Aguijón en la Cola... with... a.. hard.... move..... left. FA - Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross, Emma Shawcross, Paul Mackrill 31/12/2007 6a 11 sur :42

12 (25) Crescendo b 12m. The next line with a hard finishing sequence. FA - Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross 05/01/2008 (26) Escalada b+ 15m. This line has a hard finish again which takes the thin crack high on the wall. FA - Tom Phillips, Harry Middleton 21/02/2008 (27) Taking the Mick a 15m. The line left of the prow FA - Tom Phillips, Mick Brohan 01/12/2006 (28) Tengo Que Hacerlo? a 18m. Start up the lower rib and then the steep upper arete FA - Tom Phillips, Mick Brohan 01/12/2006 Matthew Phillips on First Ascent of Curruca (29) Disminución a 18m. The steep slightly undercut front face of the rib has a very thin start, then trend right on increasingly better holds FA - Tom Phillips, Alistair Shawcross 03/01/2008 (30) project a 18m. steep wall right of the rib (31) Costilla d'alistair a 18m. The clean rib just across from the gully is harder than it looks FA - Alistair Shawcross, Emma Shawcross 03/01/2008 FINAL BUTRESS (32) Cochabamba VS 4b 10m. Climbs the wall and right side of the wide groove, step left at the top to lower off. FA Tom Phillips Alistair Shawcross on his rib (33) Santiago VS 4b 10m. The centre line FA Tom Phillips (34) Sucre HVS 4c 10m. The right hand route takes has a couiple of steep moves through the bulge before the excellent upper crack.fa 2005 Bruce Jardine 12 sur :42

13 Tom Phillips working hard on Crecendo El Arco Sector Across the main road lies a steep crag with an striking curving crack. (El Arco - The Bow). There are currently three routes on the left hand section. Approach: You can park at the side of the main road beneath the crag, at the Abdet turn off. Walk along the main road towards Confrides for 50 metres and follow a feint track on the bank between two signs up into the woods. Go directly uphill passing a small section of broken terrace wall, then head left, and up, and left and up along a very feint track and occaisional cairns until you reach a small cave at the East end of the Buttress which provides a great area for gearing up. All routes are bolted and have lower offs. (1) Sangre en La Roca b 25m. Climb the steep bulges a few metres to the left of the main crack. FA 15/11/05 - Leo Fallon/Tom Phillips (2) El Rey del Tufa Facil a+ 25m. Start up the tufa features before crossing "El Arco" (shared bolt) and launching up the deceptively steep flakes and enourmous tufa holds, steep! Step left at top to lower off as for El Arco FA 15/11/05 - Tom Phillips/Leo Fallon (3) El Arco a+ 13 sur :42

14 25m. Bridge up into the flake crack and follow this all the way to the top, using holds on the left of the crack. FA 13/3/ Tom Phillips/Martyn Hurn 27/10/05 Accommodation for climbers from 10 per person per night! Abdet is the ideal base for a climbing holiday with easy access to many crags, the El Flare crags are just 5 minutes walk, and of course you are surrounded by spectacular scenery. There are two recently renovated houses area suitable for groups or individuals. All bedding is included and we can also provide a food welcome pack to get you started. There are two restaurants in the village and even more choice in the nearby village of Confrides. In the summer months the local pools and streams provide superb venues for relaxation. Check out the virtual tours where you can look around the accommodation in detail as well as explore the village! El Flare Photo Gallery - click here 14 sur :42

15 El Flare Topo by - Abdet - the ideal location for your Costa Blanca accommodation The icons are reproduced with the permission of Rockfax Rockfax Please send feedback on routes to info@abdet.com You can also comment on routes at 15 sur :42