Mughal Gardens in Srinagar. Toy train ride from Kalka to Shimla. 2 Little Tibet in McLeodGanj. Sample chapter. 10 Top Experiences

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August Miller
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1 10 Top Experiences 2 10 Top Experiences It made headlines in 1960, when the Dalai Lama claimed asylum here. And with him came thousands of exiles, turning this Himachali town into Little Tibet.

The revered Tsuglha-khang Complex, equivalent of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, houses a wooden pulpit for the Dalai Lama s discourses, His Holiness s private office, residence, a monastery and the

You will find many cuisines here, but the meaty momos and soft Tibetan breads rule the chart. 1 Mughal Gardens in Srinagar If there is paradise on earth, this it is.

1 1 10 Top Experiences 2 10 Top Experiences It made headlines in 1960, when the Dalai Lama claimed asylum here. And with him came thousands of exiles, turning this Himachali town into Little Tibet. A centre for the study of Buddhism and Tibetan culture, McLeodGanj is a mix of both the serene and the lively. The revered Tsuglha-khang Complex, equivalent of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, houses a wooden pulpit for the Dalai Lama s discourses, His Holiness s private office, residence, a monastery and the Kalachakra Temple. The town, teeming with tourists, pilgrims and monks in maroon robes, is a foodie and a shopper s haven. You will find many cuisines here, but the meaty momos and soft Tibetan breads rule the chart. 1 Mughal Gardens in Srinagar If there is paradise on earth, this it is. Emperor Jehangir was the first to describe Kashmir in such glowing terms. And he didn t stop at just singing paeans to Kashmir s ethereal beauty. The three most stunning gardens in Srinagar (p22) were built during his reign. Strung out around Dal Lake, these have terraced lawns, fountain pools and manicured flowerbeds punctuated with chinar trees and pavilions. Nishat Bagh, with a 12-level terracing split down the middle by a cascading water channel, is the best. The two other gems are Shalimar Bagh and Chashme Shahi, the latter known for its natural spring. 3 Toy train ride from Kalka to Shimla 2 Little Tibet in McLeodGanj Named after David McLeod, a lieutenant-governor of Punjab, McLeodGanj (p44) was established in the 1850s as a British garrison and served as an administration centre for the colonisers till We have always loved a train ride, especially one on a toy train. The narrow-gauge railway track from Kalka to Shimla (p70) is a feat of engineering accomplished over 150 years ago. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, this is the same route that has enjoyed a Bollywood moment in Jab We Met (2005) starring Kareena Kapoor and Shahid Kapoor. The Kalka Shimla route covers a remarkable 1400m over a distance of 96km, passing through more than 100 tunnels. The ride is fun any time of the year, though chugging through a snow-covered landscape is what we like best. The Himalayan Queen is a popular train on this route, but the Shivalik Deluxe is altogether more comfortable.

3 East & Northeast 4 East & Northeast C Along ARUNACHAL h f PRADESH Pasighat Gurudongmar Lake gziro Tsopta Valley 9a Ravangla Yumthang Tawang Dibrugarh b e dse-la Pass Yuksom Valley Itanagar cold

Kohima BENGAL j l Shillong Tura Cherrapunjee m Balurghat Silchar BANGLADESH WEST BENGAL 1 Darjeeling 2 Kalimpong 3 Kurseong SIKKIM 4 Gangtok 5 Namchi 6 Pelling 7 Yuksom 8 Ravangla Brahmaputra River 0

2 3 East & Northeast 4 East & Northeast C Along ARUNACHAL h f PRADESH Pasighat Gurudongmar Lake gziro Tsopta Valley 9a Ravangla Yumthang Tawang Dibrugarh b e dse-la Pass Yuksom Valley Itanagar cold Dirang Pelling 78 Gangtok Namchi 6 4 Darjeeling 5SIKKIM BHUTAN 1 2Kalimpong Kurseong 3 A S S A M Siliguri Bongaigaon NAGALAND Jalpaiguri Coochbehar Guwahati Tuophema Guwahati k WEST Airport Khonoma i Kohima BENGAL j l Shillong Tura Cherrapunjee m Balurghat Silchar BANGLADESH WEST BENGAL 1 Darjeeling 2 Kalimpong 3 Kurseong SIKKIM 4 Gangtok 5 Namchi 6 Pelling 7 Yuksom 8 Ravangla Brahmaputra River km miles 9 Tsopta Valley a Gurudongmar Lake b Yumthang Valley ARUNACHAL PRADESH c Old Dirang d Se-la Pass e Tawang f Pasighat g Ziro h Along Barail Range River Brahmaputra NAGALAND i Kohima j Khonoma k Tuophema MEGHALAYA l Shillong m Cherrapunjee A young monk in festive attire at a monastery in Sikkim East & Northeast Overview From the tea-flavoured hills of West Bengal (p162) in the east go on to experience the mountainous forested regions of the Northeast. Here the mighty Himalayas give way to Mt Khangchendzonga, the world s third-highest mountain near Sikkim (p168). Arunachal Pradesh (p186) exposes you to pristine Buddhist monasteries and tribal culture at Ziro. Take in the rugged countryside and fascinating tribal villages of Nagaland (p194) and Meghalaya s (p198) hillside villages. Getting There & Away Air: For Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya fly to Guwahati from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a 4x4 vehicle for the trip from there. You can also fly to Dibrugarh in Assam from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a vehicle from there for central Arunachal Pradesh and Ziro Valley. For Sikkim fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi from there to Gangtok. Fly to Dimapur from Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there for Kohima in Nagaland. To reach the hills of Darjeeling in West Bengal fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there. Rail: Take Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri (NJP), and hire a taxi from there for Darjeeling. The nearest railhead to Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Meghalaya is NJP. Hire a vehicle from here to Gangtok, Ziro Valley and around, Kohima and Shillong.

5 Gangtok & Around 6 Gangtok & Around I SIKKIM A happy hunting ground for tourists from neighbouring states, Gangtok is a pleasant hill station with a laidback and friendly population.

3 5 Gangtok & Around 6 Gangtok & Around I SIKKIM A happy hunting ground for tourists from neighbouring states, Gangtok is a pleasant hill station with a laidback and friendly population. No one seems to be in a hurry here, and life is generally about taking things easy over a warm cup of coffee or a chilled pint of beer, while enjoying splendid views of Mt Khangchendzonga lording over the townscape. An excursion to the village of Rumtek (to view the grand Rumtek Monastery), combined with a jaunt to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La, only adds more variety to this thoroughly enjoyable vacation. Highlights 1 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology 2 Enchey Gompa 3 Ganesh Tok 4 Gangtok Zoo 5 Rumtek Monastery 6 Tsomgo Lake 7 Nathu La Fluttering prayer flags spread across the foothills outside Gangtok Why go? Stretched along rolling foothills in the shadow of the majestic Mt Khangchendzonga, Gangtok is a lively hill station with some fabulous sightseeing around it. To top it off, an excursion to the icy heights of Nathu La earns you some adventure points. Quick Facts Getting There Air: Fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi to Gangtok. Rail: Take the Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or the Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri station, and hire a taxi from there. Road: Taxis and buses ply the 115km stretch between Siliguri and Gangtok through the day. For a trip to East Sikkim, charter a 4x4 vehicle from Gangtok. Best time to go October November, March May SAFETY TIP Roads in East Sikkim are prone to landslides and sudden closures during heavy rain or snow. Always check in advance. 1 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology Housed in a traditional mansion, this delightful museum is stuffed with myriad artefacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Sikkimese and Tibetan culture in Gangtok. Established in 1958 for scholastic and cultural research, its ground-floor hall displays Buddhist manuscripts, icons, thangkas and Tantric ritual objects, while the library on the 1st floor houses invaluable Buddhist manuscripts, some dating back several hundred years. Further up along the road leading to the main museum is the Do-drul Chorten, a large white stupa surrounded by dormitories for novice monks and glass-walled galleries with countless flaming butter lamps burning within. `10; Deorali; 10am 4pm 2 Enchey Gompa This ambient monastery stands to the north of Gangtok, veiled by a forest of gently rustling conifers. It s easily Gangtok s most attractive, with fantastic murals and statues of Tantric deities. The child monks living in the monastery are a friendly lot, and will tail you noisily as you go about exploring the monastery. The place comes alive for the colourful Detor Chaam masked dances held in December/ January; try to be there if you can. 4am 4pm Mon Sat, 4am 1pm Sun

7 Gangtok & Around 8 Value for Money: Shared rides If you are travelling alone or as a couple, you can always share a ride to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La with other small groups.

4 7 Gangtok & Around 8 Value for Money: Shared rides If you are travelling alone or as a couple, you can always share a ride to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La with other small groups. A Sumo or Scorpio plying the route take in as many as seven passengers, so if you can work up a full house, you could spare yourself the steep fee of nearly `4000 for the entire vehicle and do the trip for only around `700 per person. Combine a visit to Tsomgo Lake with Nathu La 6 Tsomgo Lake Pronounced Chhangu, this scenic highaltitude lake sits at 4420m about 38km northeast of Gangtok, towards Nathu La. Permits are required to visit the area, but if you charter a local vehicle, the driver can arrange these. The journey to the lake takes about 90 minutes up a perilous mountain road. Upon arriving, you can stroll by the waters, or cross over to the other side of the lake via a culvert for photo-ops. Pony and yak rides, tea, noodles and momos are available along the shore. 7 Nathu La Some 18km ahead of Tsomgo Lake is the Nathu La, which at 4145m could have provided superb travel access between Sikkim and Tibet had the pass not been closed to the public. As a tourist, however, you can go right up to the border and take photos of Tibet on the other side. Permits for visiting the pass can be processed along with those for Tsomgo Lake. The Indian Army stands vigil along the entire route to the pass, and can help in the event of any health or automobilerelated emergency. 4 Accommodation Hotel Nor-Khill Heritage ``` % ; com; PS Rd, Gangtok; `8700 In the pre-independence era, this stately property served as the royal guesthouse of the Chogyals. Bearing testimony to its heyday are countless historical photos, period furniture and exquisite Tibetan carpets that lend vintage appeal to the hallways and the lobby. The hotel is lavish, to say the least. And rates include all meals. Hotel Sonam Delek Hotel `` % ; www. hotelsonamdelek.com; Tibet Rd, Gangtok; `3000 A trusted favourite among seasoned travellers, this place offers matchless service, hearty food and great value for money. The cheaper standard rooms (`1540) in the basement have direct access to a superb rear terrace with sweeping mountain views. The deluxe rooms have private balcony views, king-size beds and prim furnishings. Breakfast is complimentary. Hidden Forest Homestay ` % ; www. hiddenforestretreat.org; Middle Sichey village; `2000 For an alternative lodging experience, try this family-run homestay secluded amid fruit trees, orchids and flower nurseries about 2km out of town. The Tibetan-themed rooms have Hotel Nor-Khill was a guesthouse for the Chogyals, the Sikkimese royals balconies, the delicious food comes from the solar-powered kitchen, a resident cow provides dairy produce and all vegetable waste is composted. A taxi from town costs `150. Mintokling Guest House Guesthouse ` % ; com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1850 Draped by exotic foliage and set about a pretty garden dotted with prayer flags, this lodge-like family home is an island of tranquillity. The rooms come with pinewood wall panels and sport upholstery made from traditional fabric. The traditional menu at the restaurant is a must-try. Hotel Pandim Hotel ` % ; com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1550 Located near the ridge, this budget hotel offers good service and the best beds in town within a budget. There s

9 Gangtok & Around 10 good food (against advance order) served at the cosy terrace sit-out. The entrance is confusing; remember the reception is on the top floor.

5 9 Gangtok & Around 10 good food (against advance order) served at the cosy terrace sit-out. The entrance is confusing; remember the reception is on the top floor. 5 Eating 9 INE Sikkimese `` MG Marg, Gangtok; meals ` Glass-fronted and stylishly appointed, this restaurant serves an awesome spread of local delicacies such as sisnoo, gundruk ko jhol and fiery pork curry. If the dishes sound unfamiliar, the friendly proprietor can help. Taste of Tibet MG Marg, Gangtok Popular with Tibetan ` Gangtok s youth, this eatery serves the best Tibetan food in Gangtok with dishes costing between ` Jostle with students and monks around tiny tables and wolf down generous servings of momos, noodle soup, shyabhale (fried meat pasty) and that chilled bottle of local Dansberg beer. Baker s Cafe Cafe ` MG Marg, Gangtok; dishes `40 90 The coolest breakfast escape on MG Marg, this cosy cafe has strong espresso, iced lemon tea, croissants, paninis, pizzas and pastries. You may have to wait for a table in the evenings. 6 Nightlife Cafe Live & Loud Lounge Bar Tibet Rd, Gangtok; drinks from `120 The star of Gangtok s live music scene, this lounge bar hosts gigs by rock, blues and alternative bands every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings. There s a full bar and food menu, and a cafe terrace outside. 2 Activities Sikkim Tourism Development Corporation Adventure % ; www. sikkimtourism.travel; MG Marg, Gangtok Views of Gangtok can be enjoyed from helicopter flights operated by STDC (`7590 for five persons, 15 minutes). Book in advance. STDC also has information on white water rafting on the Teesta, paragliding, trekking and biking. 7 Shopping Golden Tips Tea Kazi Rd, Gangtok; tea packs from `300 This boutique store stocks an exhaustive selection of premium Darjeeling and Sikkimese teas. The produce is sold in gift-sized packages (175g to 250g). Handicrafts & Handloom Emporium Crafts Zero Point, Gangtok; souvenirs from `1000 This government initiative teaches traditional crafts to local students and markets their products, including toy pandas, carpets, Tibetan furniture and handmade paper. Dzongri/Goecha la (7 9 days): This is the most popular trek in Sikkim, famed for its superb mountain views, floral spectacles in summer, birdlife and pristine forests. In a very short time you reach high mountain meadows and glaciers and are face to face with Khangchendzonga. Climb the hill above the Dzongri Hut at dawn for a view of the mountains right across the valley, including Pandim, Kabru, Ratong and Narsing. Uttarey to Phoktey Dara (4 days): This trek climbs from Uttarey in West Sikkim to a ridge top for amazing views of the Himalayan peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Khangchendzonga and Makalu. Rhododendron Trek, Hillay to Barsey (half day): The 4km walk to the Barsey rhododendron sanctuary passes through forests with a view of Expert Recommendation Best treks in Sikkim Sujoy Das is the founder of South Col Expeditions and has been trekking in the Himalayas for more than 30 years. He knows the mountains like the back of his hand. Khangchendzonga in the foreground. During spring, this part of the trail is ablaze with rhododendron blossoms. Ravangla to Mainom Top (one day): The 3km steep climb from the town brings the trekker to the hill top of Mainom. The walk is thorough the Mainom Wildlife Sanctuary rich in birdlife and flowers. Pemayangtse to Sangacholling Monastery (half day): This is a walk along a ridge joining the two monasteries. From Sangacholling, one can see all the peaks of the Khangchendzonga range as well as some of the most important monasteries in West Sikkim, including Khechuperri, Pemayangtse and Dubdi. Pemayangtse, set on a hilltop, is one of Sikkim s oldest monasteries

Darjeeling Sikkim Gangtok Pelling Kalimpong

Darjeeling Sikkim Gangtok Pelling Kalimpong (07 Nights / 08 s) Gangtok Gangtok which is capital of Sikkim is an re ects the blend of tradition and modernity. Some of the popular places to visit include