INTERACTION BETWEEN HYDRODYNAMICS AND SALT MARSH DYNAMICS: AN EXAMPLE FROM JIANGSU COAST

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "INTERACTION BETWEEN HYDRODYNAMICS AND SALT MARSH DYNAMICS: AN EXAMPLE FROM JIANGSU COAST"

Transcription

1 Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 211) Deceber 14 16, 211, Hong Kong, China INTERACTION BETWEEN HYDRODYNAMICS AND SALT MARSH DYNAMICS: AN EXAMPLE FROM JIANGSU COAST Z. HU, M.J.F. STIVE, T.J.ZITMAN Departent of Hydraulic Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1 Delft, 2628 CN, the Netherlands Q.H. YE, Z.B.WANG, A. LUIJENDIJK Deltares, Rotterdaseweg 185 Delft, 2629 HD, the Netherlands Z. GONG State Key Laboratory of Hydrology-Water Resources and Hydraulic Engineering, Hohai University, Xikang road 1, Nanjing, 2198, China T. SUZUKI Ghent University / Flanders Hydraulics Research, Berchelei 115 Antwerp, B-214, Belgiu Salt arshes are distributed along ore than 4 k of the Jiangsu coast in Eastern China, which are regarded as iportant habitats and serve as coastal protection as well. Previous research has proven that salt-arsh vegetation can reduce current velocity and dapen waves by its stes and leaves. Reversely, hydrodynaic forces also have a significant influence on the growth of salt-arsh vegetation. To study the interaction between hydrodynaics and salt-arsh developent on the Jiangsu coast, a 2D scheatized odel has been built by using a new interactive structure between flow, wave and vegetation odules of the process-based odel Delft3D. In the hydrodynaic siulations, the ipact of vegetation on waves and currents is quantified. In the vegetation growth odule, the developent of salt arshes is influenced by inundation tie and shear stress fro hydrodynaic siulations. The feedback loop is copleted by hydrodynaic odules receiving the newly updated data of salt-arsh field fro the vegetation growth odule. The results show that wave height and current velocity are significantly influenced by vegetation. Reversely, the dynaics of arsh vegetation greatly rely on hydrodynaic conditions. Consequently, this interaction between hydrodynaics and salt arsh induces teporal variations of each other. In the odel, the salt arsh is especially sensitive to the waves. Though wave height is relatively sall on the Jiangsu coast, in ters of bed shear stress, waves ay be of great iportance to the developent of salt arsh. 1

2 2 1. Introduction In the eastern China, salt arshes cover about 41 k of the Jiangsu coast, with a axiu width of over 4 k [1]. Salt-arsh vegetation can reduce current velocity [2; 3] and wave energy through salt arsh canopy [4; 5]. Moreover, the vegetation-current feedback can strongly influence each other and the tidal landscape as well [6; 7]. To study the interaction between hydrodynaics and salt-arsh developent on the Jiangsu coast, an integrated wave-flowvegetation odel has been built. Specially, waves are included in the interaction odel to count the ipact of waves on the vegetation and vice versa. Wanggang wetland in the iddle part of the Jiangsu coast is picked as the study area, where salt arshes are widespread. Wanggang wetland is doinated by sei-diurnal tide. The tidal range is 3-4 and the slope of tidal flat is about.55 [8]. The significant wave height over the intertidal flat is.1.2 [9]. The doinant species of the salt-arsh vegetation is Spartina alterniflora [1], which is chosen as the representative vegetation in the odel. 2. Methods The interaction odel has been built within the process-based Delft3D syste in 2D [1]. Delft3D WAVE, FLOW and WAQ odules are eployed to siulate wave-current-vegetation feedback pattern Flow odule In the flow odule, arsh plants are scheatized as rigid cylinders. The effect of vegetation on flow is counted as extra resistance in oentu equation [11]: M uu (1) Where u is the current velocity [/s], λ is the resistance coefficient which is proportional to the product of ste density and diaeter of plant cylinders, [ -1 ] Wave odule In the wave odule, vegetation is also scheatized as rigid vertical cylinders. Wave energy dissipation due to vegetation v is given by [4]: gk sinh k h 3sinh k h 3 v C (2) DbvN H 3 rs 2 2 3k cosh kh Where ρ is the water density [kg -3 ], h is the water depth [], (ah) is the vegetation height [], H rs is root ean square wave height [], k is wave nuber [ -1 ], is angular frequency [s -1 ], b v is average diaeter of plants [], N is the nuber of plants per square eter [ -2 ], C D is averaged drag coefficient [-], v [N -1 s -1 ] is added in spectral action balance equation [12].

3 Vegetation dynaic odule The siulation of the vegetation odule represents intrinsic growth and spatial spreading of vegetation [13]. It also counts ortality caused by inundation and shear stress [6]. Specially, as waves are included in the odel, the bed shear stress is enhanced by wave-current interaction [14]. The ortality due to shear stress is assued to be proportional to the axiu bed shear stress. Vegetation height and ste diaeter are assued to be proportional to the ste density. After each tie step, this odule provides the newly updated space-depended vegetation height, diaeter and density data for the next hydrodynaics siulations. As the dynaics of vegetation acts on longer tie scale than hydrodynaics [15], the vegetation data is updated every 2 days Model setting The flow doain covers an area of 8 k by 8 k, which is set upon a constant slope fro 4 to -12 (as is the ean sea level). Tide is coposed by M2, M4 and S2, with aplitudes of 1.7,.2 and.6 respectively. The wave boundary is set 4 k further seaward than the flow boundary. As sheltered by offshore sand ridges in the southeast [8], waves are prescribed to coe fro northeast (45 ). Locally generated waves by wind are neglected. A B 45 waves N Sea A' M2 S2 M4 B' Figure 1a. Top view of the doain. Figure 1b. Cross-shore profile of A-A'. 1-4 are observation points Obs.1-Obs.4. The initial vegetation patch is placed in the upper intertidal zone with an area of 7 by 2 (Fig 1a). The siulation is carried out fro May to October in the odel, because it is the tie that salt-arsh vegetation grows [16]. The base case is C V3 : 3 eaning 3 c H s fro boundary and V eaning vegetation being taken into account in this case. Siilarly, C N5 eans that in this case H s fro the boundary is 5 c and there is no vegetation. Cross sections A-A' and B-B' represents cross-shore and long-shore directions respectively (Fig. 1a). A-A' is the id-line of the tidal flat. There are 4 observation points (Obs.1 to Obs.4) on it. They are located at the ature arsh, fringe of the arsh, pioneer zone and bare tide flat respectively (Fig. 1b).

4 4 3. Results 3.1. Spatial variations of hydrodynaics Scenario Table 1. Spatial variations of H s and the agnitude e of current velocity ( u ) along cross section A-A' Mean significant wave height H s, Mean current velocity u (c/s) (c) and [standard deviation] (c) and [standard deviation] (c/s) Bare Tidal flat Pioneer zone Fringe of arsh Mature arsh Bare Tidal flat Pioneer zone Fringe of arsh Mature arsh C N3 9.4 [.8] 7.8 [1.2] 6. [2.3] 3.7 [3.] 14.8 [8.8] 1.9 [5.6] 1.3 [5.8] 7.3 [7.2] C V3 8.3 [.6] 6.8 [1.1] 4. [1.8] 1.3 [1.2] 13.8 [8.3] 8.4 [4.4] 4. [1.9] 3. [2.2] C N [1.3] 14.3 [2.2] 1.9 [4.1] 6.7 [5.5] 14. [8.4] 1.1 [5.3] 8.1 [4.1] 5.6 [3.6] C V [1.2] 13.4 [2.] 8.9 [3.5] 2.1 [2.] 13.2 [7.9] 9.1 [5.] 5.1 [2.3] 3. [2.1] C N [1.9] 21.4 [3.3] 16.2 [6.4] 1. [8.3] 13.4 [8.] 9.7 [5.] 7.7 [3.9] 5.6 [3.4] C V [1.5] 19. [2.9] 12.5 [5.] 2.1 [2.4] 12.8 [7.7] 8.7 [4.9] 5. [2.2] 3. [2.1] In the odel, sei-diurnal tides with spring-neap tide cycle are well represented. The ean tide range is 3.5. Flood currents run southward and ebb currents run northward (Fig. 2). The salt arsh is regularly flooded by high tides, which also delivers waves to the tidal flat (Fig. 3). Results show that the presence of the salt arsh induces spatial variations of hydrodynaic forces. The significant wave height (H s ) and the agnitude of current velocity ( u ) are averaged over all the flooding ties through half year. Rearkable reduction of both significant wave height and current velocity is shown in the cases with vegetation (Table 1). Salt arsh Salt arsh Figure 2. Flow velocity field during flood, C V3 Figure 3. H s [] distribution during flood, C V3 Salt arsh vegetation reduces wave energy efficiently. The salt arsh has a considerable ipact on the spatial distribution of H s on the tidal flat (Fig. 3). In the base run with vegetation, the ean significant wave height decreases by

5 5 85% fro bare tidal flat to the ature arsh, while the percentage of decrease is about 6% in the contrasting case without vegetation (Table 1). Moreover, the efficiency of salt arsh dapening waves increases with incident wave height. In case C V1, the H s reduces by 9% through the vegetation field. However, the percentage of H s reduction reains around 6% for all the cases without arsh (Table 1.). When the currents travel through the arsh canopy, the blockage effect of vegetation is significant (Fig. 2). During flood, the long-shore coponent of the ean current velocity along the B-B' is reduced fro 15.7 c/s to 7.3 c/s at the northern edge of the arsh. At the southern edge, it restores fro 4.8 c/s to 14.3 c/s (Fig. 2). Meanwhile, because of its sall agnitude, the crossshore coponent only reduces slightly and it even increases around the northern and southern edges. In the cross-shore direction, vegetation also leads to higher reduction of tie-averaged u fro seaward to landward (Table 1.) 3.2. Salt arsh dynaics Sea Sea Figure 4. Salt arsh developent after half year, the left one is C V3, the right one is C V3, the white dash line indicates the location of the initial arsh patch, and the legend indicates the ste density [ -2 ] The developent of the salt arsh is greatly influenced by the hydrodynaic force. Especially, the wave plays a crucial part in it. In the base run (C V3 ), the salt arsh expands fast, which is siilar to the reality of the Jiangsu coast [1] (Fig. 4). The ature salt arsh (ste density N 6% ax capacity) progresses 1 seaward, with a 2 pioneer zone in front of it. In the long-shore direction, the arsh expands 1 northward and 12 southward. By the end of October, the ean ste density of ature arsh increases fro 5 to about 9-2. Mean height and diaeter of S. alterniflora increases to 1.7 and.95 c respectively. These results are in agreeent with references [1; 17].

6 6 The arsh in the odel is very sensitive to the incident waves. If tieaveraged H s increases to 16.5 c on the bare tidal flat (Obs. 4), the arsh cannot expand seaward. When H s on the bare tidal flat increases to 3 c, the hydrodynaic forces becoe erosive to the initial arsh. With higher incident waves (e.g., 3 ), the arsh will even retreat further to the landward (Fig. 4) Teporal variations of hydrodynaics As the arsh is active, H s and current velocity are also influenced by the dynaics of the arsh over tie. This influence is significant especially on the fringe of the ature arsh and on the pioneer zone, where the interaction is ore intense and distinct. The dynaics of arshes acts on a longer teporal scale than hydrodynaics [15]. To copare the, the results are averaged over every three spring-neap circles, approxiately 45 days..6 Hs c.6.25 u Hs, c/s (c).2.25 u, (c/s).2 Hs c d u c/s dn Figure 5. Teporal variation of hydrodynaics on the arsh fringe, the left one is fro C V3, the right one is fro C V12 ; the green dash lines (dn) indicate the relative ste density of vegetation Hydrodynaic forces can either decrease due to the arsh expansion or they could increase due to arsh retreat (Fig. 5). Whether the arsh will expand or retreat is deterined by the strength of hydrodynaics. In the base run, the ean vegetation density increases by 4 % on the fringe of arsh (Obs. 2), which leads to 25% and 4% decline of H s and u respectively over half year. The decline of hydrodynaic forces leads to a ore favorable environent for the salt arsh. In the C V12, hydrodynaic forces are erosive to the salt-arsh vegetation on the fringe. The arsh density decreases by 8%, while H s and u increases by 35% and 4% respectively (Fig. 5). In this case, hydrodynaic forces are aplified due to the degeneration of the salt arsh Bed shear stress In the odel, the ortality of S. alterniflora is assued to be proportional to the ax shear stress fro current-wave interaction [14]. The critical shear stress is set at.26 Pa [18], beyond which soe vegetation will be wiped out (Fig. 6).

7 7 During high water level, shear stress due to currents alone is.2 Pa.1 Pa with a ean value of.45 Pa at the arsh fringe. As waves are included, the ax bed shear stress fro flow-wave interaction is.6 Pa.28 Pa in the base run on the fringe of arsh, with a ean value around.85 Pa. Though waves are relatively sall on the Jiangsu coast, field work shows that waves can enhance bed shear stress greatly [3; 9]. Moreover, bed shear stress on the arsh due to waves alone is higher than that fro currents along (Fig. 6). As incident wave height increases fro 3 c to 5 c, there is a higher chance that the vegetation on arsh fringe will be eroded..3.3 Bed shear stress due to waves alone, [Pa] Bed shear stress due to waves alone, [Pa] Bed shear stress due to currents alone, [Pa] Bed shear stress due to currents alone, [Pa] Figure 6. Coparison between bed shear stress induced by current alone and by wave alone at the fringe (Obs. 2) of the arsh. The left one is C V3, the right one is C V5, red dash lines indicate the critical shear stress (.26 Pa) of plant ortality 4. Discussion and Conclusion The results deonstrate a significant effect of vegetation on waves and currents. The base run (C V3 ) successfully reproduces the rapid developent of salt arshes on the Jiangsu coast [1; 17]. Furtherore, teporal variations of hydrodynaics due to the salt arsh developent are evident (Fig. 5). Hence, it is necessary to eploy dynaic arshes odule other than static vegetation patches for fairly long-ter hydrodynaic or orphodynaic prediction. The intertidal zone of the Jiangsu coast is very flat and the slope is very gentle [8]. Considering the hoogeneous topography, the interaction between vegetation and hydrodynaics can be very iportant to the evolution of the landscape [6]. Wave height on the Wanggang tidal flat is sall [8; 9], which ay be one of the reasons that salt arshes are widespread there. Field easureents have indicated that in ters of bed shear stress waves ay play a ore iportant role in arsh dynaics than currents [3]. Model results show that bed shear stress is enhanced by waves, which leads to a higher ortality of S. alterniflora. Moreover, the shear stress due to waves alone is greater than that due to currents alone [3; 9]. It is the reason why the developent of the arsh is sensitive to waves. Even a slight increase of H s (2 c) fro the boundary will restrain the

8 8 arsh fro seaward propagation. With even higher waves, the arsh will retreat. This integrated odel indicates that waves are iportant in the interaction between hydrodynaic and salt arsh developent. The ipleentation of this odel in the icro-topography and orphodynaics of salt arshes can be a future challenge. Acknowledgents The authors want to thank Drs. Mariëtte van Tilburg for her editorial support. References 1. R.S. Zhang, Y.M. Shen, L.Y. Lu, S.G. Yan, Y.H. Wang, J.L. Li, Z.L. Zhang, Foration of Spartina alterniflora salt arshes on the coast of Jiangsu Province, China. Ecological Engineering. 23, no (24). 2. S. Teeran, T. J. Boua, G. Govers, Z. B. Wang, M. B. De Vries, P. M. J. Heran, Ipact of vegetation on flow routing and sedientation patterns: Three-diensional odeling for a tidal arsh. Journal of Geophysical Research F: Earth Surface. 11, no. 4 (25) 3. D.P. Callaghan, T.J. Boua, P. Klaassen, D. van der Wal, M.J.F. Stive, P.M.J. Heran, Hydrodynaic forcing on salt-arsh developent: Distinguishing the relative iportance of waves and tidal flows. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science. 89, no (21) 4. F.J. Mendez and I.J. Losada, An epirical odel to estiate the propagation of rando breaking and non-breaking waves over vegetation fields. Coastal Engineering. 51, no (24). 5. Suzuki, T., Wave dissipation over vegetation fields. Ph.D. thesis, Delft University of Technology (211) 6. S. Teeran, T.J. Boua, J. Van de Koppel, D. Van der Wal, M.B. De Vries and P.M.J. Heran, Vegetation Causes Channel Erosion in a Tidal Landscape. Geology. 35, no. 7, (27) 7. W. Vandenbruwaene, S. Teeran, T. J. Boua, P. C. Klaassen, M. B. de Vries, D. P. Callaghan, P. van Steeg, F. Dekker, L. A. van Duren, E. Martini, T. Balke, G. Bierans, J. Schoelynck, and P. Meire, Flow interaction with dynaic vegetation patches: Iplications for biogeoorphic evolution of a tidal landscape. Journal of Geophysical Research F: Earth Surface. 116, no. 1 (211), 8. Ren M E, Coprehensive Investigation of Coastal Zone and Tidal Land Resources of Jiangsu Province. Beijing: China Ocean Press. in Chinese (1986) 9. Y. Wang, S. Gao, and J. Jia, High-resolution data collection for analysis of sedient dynaic processes associated with cobined current-wave action over intertidal flats. Chinese Science Bulletin. 51, no. 7, (26). 1. G.R. Lessera, J.A. Roelvinka, J.A.T.M. van Kester, G.S. Stelling, Developent and validation of a three-diensional orphological odel. Coastal Engineering. 51, no. 8, (24). 11. Baptist, M. J., Modelling flood plain biogeoorphology. Ph.D. thesis, Delft University of Technology. 274 (25) 12. Booij, N., Ris, R.C., Holthuijsen, L.H., A third-generation wave odel for coastal regions 1. odel description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research. 14, 7649e7666 (1999) 13. Yodzis, P., Introduction to theoretical ecology. New York, Harper & Row, 384 p. (1989) 14. FredsØe, J., Turbulent boundary layer in wave-current interaction. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering. 11: 113 (1984) 15. J.R.L. Allen, Morphodynaics of Holocene salt arshes: A review sketch fro the Atlantic and Southern North Sea coasts of Europe. Quaternary Science Reviews. 19, no. 12, (2). 16. Gallagher, John L., Seasonal patterns in recoverable underground reserves in Spartina alterniflora Loisel. Aerican Journal of Botany, (1983) 17. SHEN Yong-Ming, YANG Jing-Song, WANG Yan-Hong, FENG Nian-Hua, ZHOU Qin and ZENG Hua, Ipact of Sedient Supply on Spartina Salt Marshes Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China. Pedosphere. 18, no. 5, (28) 18. Van Hulzen, J.B., Van Soelen, J., and Boua, T.J., Morphological variation and habitat odification are strongly correlated for the autogenic ecosyste engineer Spartina anglica (coon cord grass) Estuaries and Coasts. v. 3, p (27)

Wave Force on Coastal Dike due to Tsunami

Wave Force on Coastal Dike due to Tsunami Wave Force on Coastal Dike due to Tsunai by Fuinori Kato 1, Shigeki Inagaki 2 and Masaya Fukuhaa 3 ABSTRACT This paper presents results of large-scale experients on wave force due to tsunai. A odel of

More information

IMPROVED SPECTRAL WAVE MODELLING OF WHITE-CAPPING DISSIPATION IN SWELL SEA SYSTEMS

IMPROVED SPECTRAL WAVE MODELLING OF WHITE-CAPPING DISSIPATION IN SWELL SEA SYSTEMS Proceedings of OMAE 2004: 23rd International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering 20-25 June 2004, Vancouver, Canada OMAE2004-51562 IMPROVED SPECTRAL WAVE MODELLING OF WHITE-CAPPING

More information

EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CURVED BEACH

EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CURVED BEACH EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CURVED BEACH Kideok Do 1, Nobuhisa Kobayashi 2 and Kyung-Duck Suh 3 The perforance of a large nourishent project on Bethany Beach, Delaware is evaluated using available beach profile,

More information

NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION USING HIGH RESOLUTION COUPLED MODEL IN THE KUROSHIO REGION

NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION USING HIGH RESOLUTION COUPLED MODEL IN THE KUROSHIO REGION NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION USING HIGH RESOLUTION COUPLED MODEL IN THE KUROSHIO REGION Hitoshi TAMURA Frontier Research Center for Global Change/JAMSTEC 373- Showaachi, Kanazawa-ku, Yokohaa,

More information

FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF SURFACE SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY, CHINA

FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF SURFACE SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY, CHINA International Conference on Estuaries and Coasts November 9-11, 2003, Hangzhou, China FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF SURFACE SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY, CHINA Qing HE, Zhiying YU, Yuanye

More information

Characteristics of tidal waves in the eastern Jiangsu coast and Changjiang Estuary H.M. HUANG & Y.G. WANG & W.N. ZHANG

Characteristics of tidal waves in the eastern Jiangsu coast and Changjiang Estuary H.M. HUANG & Y.G. WANG & W.N. ZHANG Characteristics of tidal waves in the eastern Jiangsu coast and Changjiang Estuary H.M. HUANG & Y.G. WANG & W.N. ZHANG Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and Defence, Ministry of Education, Hohai University,

More information

Brian P. Casaday and J. C. Vanderhoff Brigham Young University, Provo, Utah

Brian P. Casaday and J. C. Vanderhoff Brigham Young University, Provo, Utah P. SIMLATIOS OF ITERAL WAVES APPROACHIG A CRITICAL LEVEL Brian P. Casaday and J. C. Vanderhoff Brigha Young niversity, Provo, tah. BACKGROD Internal gravity waves exist abundantly in our world in stably-stratified

More information

Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach- Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data

Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach- Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data University of South Florida Scholar Coons Geology Faculty Publications Geology 1-21 Liits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach- Profile Change fro Large-Scale Laboratory Data Tiffany M. Roberts University

More information

Integration of Lean Approaches to Manage a Manual Assembly System

Integration of Lean Approaches to Manage a Manual Assembly System Open Journal of Social Sciences, 204, 2, 226-23 Published Online Septeber 204 in SciRes. http://www.scirp.org/journal/jss http://dx.doi.org/0.4236/jss.204.29038 Integration of Lean Approaches to Manage

More information

Morphodynamic Modelling of a Shoreface Nourishment at Egmond-aan-Zee, The Netherlands

Morphodynamic Modelling of a Shoreface Nourishment at Egmond-aan-Zee, The Netherlands Morphodynamic Modelling of a Shoreface Nourishment at Egmond-aan-Zee, The Netherlands Christophe BRIERE 1, Maarten van ORMONDT 1, Dirk-Jan WALSTRA 1,2 1 Deltares WL Delft Hydraulics, PO Box 177, 2600 MH

More information

A parametric study of an offshore concrete pile under combined loading conditions using finite element method

A parametric study of an offshore concrete pile under combined loading conditions using finite element method 32 A paraetric stud of an offshore concrete pile under cobined loading conditions using finite eleent ethod J.A. Eicher, H. Guan 1 and D. S. Jeng School of Engineering, Griffith Universit Gold Coast Capus,

More information

MODELLING THE EFFECTS OF PEDESTRIANS ON INTERSECTION CAPACITY AND DELAY WITH ACTUATED SIGNAL CONTROL

MODELLING THE EFFECTS OF PEDESTRIANS ON INTERSECTION CAPACITY AND DELAY WITH ACTUATED SIGNAL CONTROL MODELLING THE EFFECTS OF PEDESTRIANS ON INTERSECTION CAPACITY AND DELAY WITH ACTUATED SIGNAL CONTROL ABSTRACT Zong Tian, Ph.D., P.E. Feng Xu, Graduate Assistant Departent of Civil and Environental Engineering

More information

For more information: Photography: Rijkswaterstaat (Leo Linnartz, Carrie de Wilde, Jurriaan Brobbel, Joop van Houdt), Deltares

For more information: Photography: Rijkswaterstaat (Leo Linnartz, Carrie de Wilde, Jurriaan Brobbel, Joop van Houdt), Deltares Investing in your future. This project was made possible with support from the European Regional Development Fund. Photography: Rijkswaterstaat (Leo Linnartz, Carrie de Wilde, Jurriaan Brobbel, Joop van

More information

NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON WATER DISCHARGE CAPABILITY OF SLUICE CAISSON OF TIDAL POWER PLANT

NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON WATER DISCHARGE CAPABILITY OF SLUICE CAISSON OF TIDAL POWER PLANT Proceedings of the Sixth International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC ) December 4 6,, Hong Kong, China NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON WATER DISCHARGE CAPABILITY OF SLUICE CAISSON OF TIDAL POWER

More information

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile for large scale land reclamations Martijn Onderwater 1 Dano Roelvink Jan van de Graaff 3 Abstract When building a large scale land reclamation, the safest

More information

LONG WAVES OVER THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. Eric Wolanski ABSTRACT

LONG WAVES OVER THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. Eric Wolanski ABSTRACT LONG WAVES OVER THE GREAT BARRIER REEF by Eric Wolanski k ABSTRACT Low-frequency forcing of water currents over the continental shelf f Australia is quite strong and should be taken into account when the

More information

Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering

Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering Unsteady Wave-Driven Circulation Cells Relevant to Rip Currents and Coastal Engineering Andrew Kennedy Dept of Civil and Coastal Engineering 365 Weil Hall University of Florida Gainesville, FL 32611 phone:

More information

HYDRODYNAMICS AND MORPHODYNAMICS IN THE SURF ZONE OF A DISSIPATIVE BEACH

HYDRODYNAMICS AND MORPHODYNAMICS IN THE SURF ZONE OF A DISSIPATIVE BEACH HYDRODYNAMICS AND MORPHODYNAMICS IN THE SURF ZONE OF A DISSIPATIVE BEACH Leo C. van Rijn, Dirk Jan R. Walstra, Bart T. Grasmeijer and Kees Kleinhout Abstract: Two profile models have been compared with

More information

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract

MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Abstract MULTIDECADAL SHORELINE EVOLUTION DUE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT JAPANESE SAND ENGINE? Masayuki Banno 1, Satoshi Takewaka 2 and Yoshiaki Kuriyama 3 Abstract Beach nourishment is one of the countermeasures

More information

Race car damping 2. Fig-1 quarter car model.

Race car damping 2. Fig-1 quarter car model. Race car daping A nuber of issues ago I wrote an article on exploring approaches to specify a race car daper. This article is the second in that series and we shall be following on fro where we left off.

More information

Morphological modelling of Keta Lagoon case

Morphological modelling of Keta Lagoon case CHAPTER 232 Morphological modelling of Keta Lagoon case J.A. Roelvink 1 ' 2, D.J.R. Walstra 1 and Z. Chen 1 'DELFT HYDRAULICS p.o. box 152, 8300 AD Emmeloord, The Netherlands. Netherlands Centre for Coastal

More information

A Numerical Prediction of Wash Wave and Wave Resistance of High Speed Displacement Ships in Deep and Shallow Water

A Numerical Prediction of Wash Wave and Wave Resistance of High Speed Displacement Ships in Deep and Shallow Water การประช มว ชาการเคร อข ายว ศวกรรมเคร องกลแห งประเทศไทยคร งท 18 18- ต ลาคม 547 จ งหว ดขอนแก น A Nuerical Prediction of Wash Wave and Wave Resistance of High Speed Displaceent Ships in Deep and Shallow Water

More information

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan

Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan R. Nishi Wind Blow-out Hollow Generated in Fukiage Dune Field, Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan Ryuichiro Nishi, Li Elikson and Myokhin PREFACE A sand dune is vulnerable to severe waves and wind. Therefore,

More information

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi

Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters. Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Shoreline Evolution Due to Oblique Waves in Presence of Submerged Breakwaters Nima Zakeri (Corresponding Author), Mojtaba Tajziehchi Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University

More information

EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER

EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH ON COEFFICIENT OF WAVE TRANSMISSION THROUGH IMMERSED VERTICAL BARRIER OF OPEN-TYPE BREAKWATER Liehong Ju 1, Peng Li,Ji hua Yang 3 Extensive researches have been done for the interaction

More information

Recommendations on Two Acceleration Measurements with Low Strain Integrity Test

Recommendations on Two Acceleration Measurements with Low Strain Integrity Test Recoendations on Two Acceleration Measureents with Low Strain Integrity Test Liqun Liang, PhD., P.E., 1 Scott Webster, P.E., 2 and Marty Bixler, P.E. 3 1 Pile Dynaics Inc., 3725 Aurora Rd, Cleveland, Ohio

More information

An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay

An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. An Investigation of the Influence of Waves on Sediment Processes in Skagit Bay Geoffrey W. Cowles School for Marine Science

More information

Study of Passing Ship Effects along a Bank by Delft3D-FLOW and XBeach1

Study of Passing Ship Effects along a Bank by Delft3D-FLOW and XBeach1 Study of Passing Ship Effects along a Bank by Delft3D-FLOW and XBeach1 Minggui Zhou 1, Dano Roelvink 2,4, Henk Verheij 3,4 and Han Ligteringen 2,3 1 School of Naval Architecture, Ocean and Civil Engineering,

More information

Super-parameterization of boundary layer roll vortices in tropical cyclone models

Super-parameterization of boundary layer roll vortices in tropical cyclone models DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Super-parameterization of boundary layer roll vortices in tropical cyclone models PI Isaac Ginis Graduate School of Oceanography

More information

THE ROLE OF NATURE: UNDERSTANDING HOW NATURAL FEATURES CONTRIBUTE TO COASTAL RISK REDUCTION. Denise Reed, Chief Scientist

THE ROLE OF NATURE: UNDERSTANDING HOW NATURAL FEATURES CONTRIBUTE TO COASTAL RISK REDUCTION. Denise Reed, Chief Scientist THE ROLE OF NATURE: UNDERSTANDING HOW NATURAL FEATURES CONTRIBUTE TO COASTAL RISK REDUCTION Denise Reed, Chief Scientist The Water Institute of the Gulf is a not-for-profit, independent research institute

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

Figure 4, Photo mosaic taken on February 14 about an hour before sunset near low tide.

Figure 4, Photo mosaic taken on February 14 about an hour before sunset near low tide. The Impact on Great South Bay of the Breach at Old Inlet Charles N. Flagg and Roger Flood School of Marine and Atmospheric Sciences, Stony Brook University Since the last report was issued on January 31

More information

Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event

Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event Proceedings of International Conference on Violent Flows (VF-2007) Organized by RIAM, Kyushu University, Fukuoka, Japan Wave Setup at River and Inlet Entrances Due to an Extreme Event Xuan Tinh Nguyen

More information

Currents measurements in the coast of Montevideo, Uruguay

Currents measurements in the coast of Montevideo, Uruguay Currents measurements in the coast of Montevideo, Uruguay M. Fossati, D. Bellón, E. Lorenzo & I. Piedra-Cueva Fluid Mechanics and Environmental Engineering Institute (IMFIA), School of Engineering, Research

More information

An experimental study of internal wave generation through evanescent regions

An experimental study of internal wave generation through evanescent regions An experimental study of internal wave generation through evanescent regions Allison Lee, Julie Crockett Department of Mechanical Engineering Brigham Young University Abstract Internal waves are a complex

More information

LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709

LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709 F-4 Fourth International Conference on Scour and Erosion 2008 LOCALLY CONCENTRATED SEVERE BEACH EROSION ON SEISHO COAST CAUSED BY TYPHOON T0709 Yoshimitsu TAJIMA 1 and Shinji SATO 2 1 Member of JSCE, Associate

More information

Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation

Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation Wave energy converter effects on wave and sediment circulation Grace Chang and Craig Jones Integral Consulting Inc. cjones@integral-corp.com; gchang@integral-corp.com Jesse Roberts, Kelley Ruehl, and Chris

More information

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN Proceedings of the 14 th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology Rhodes, Greece, 3-5 September 2015 MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR

More information

Numerical simulation on fluctuation in wellhead pressure of geothermal well

Numerical simulation on fluctuation in wellhead pressure of geothermal well Wellhead pressure (MPa) PROCEEDINGS, Thirty-Ninth Workshop on Geotheral Reservoir Engineering Stanford University, Stanford, California, February 4-6, 014 SGP-TR-0 Nuerical siulation on fluctuation in

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Nearshore Circulation Undertow and Rip Cells Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay

More information

Beach Wizard: Development of an Operational Nowcast, Short-Term Forecast System for Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Bathymetric Evolution

Beach Wizard: Development of an Operational Nowcast, Short-Term Forecast System for Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Bathymetric Evolution Beach Wizard: Development of an Operational Nowcast, Short-Term Forecast System for Nearshore Hydrodynamics and Bathymetric Evolution Ad Reniers Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology

More information

Pressure coefficient on flat roofs of rectangular buildings

Pressure coefficient on flat roofs of rectangular buildings Pressure coefficient on flat roofs of rectangular buildings T. Lipecki 1 1 Faculty of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Lublin University of Technology, Poland. t.lipecki@pollub.pl Abstract The paper

More information

Request Number IR1-12: Flow Passage. Information Request

Request Number IR1-12: Flow Passage. Information Request Request Number IR1-12: Flow Passage Information Request Provide additional information about the 100 metre flow passage channel scenario between the Westshore Terminals and the proposed Project terminal

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

A Review of the Bed Roughness Variable in MIKE 21 FLOW MODEL FM, Hydrodynamic (HD) and Sediment Transport (ST) modules

A Review of the Bed Roughness Variable in MIKE 21 FLOW MODEL FM, Hydrodynamic (HD) and Sediment Transport (ST) modules A Review of the Bed Roughness Variable in MIKE 1 FLOW MODEL FM, Hydrodynamic (HD) and Sediment Transport (ST) modules by David Lambkin, University of Southampton, UK 1 Bed roughness is considered a primary

More information

Ripple Tank: Instruction Manual

Ripple Tank: Instruction Manual Ripple Tank: Instruction Manual The Ripple Tank coprises the following individual parts: Assebly of the ripple tank: Water Tank.......1pcs Detachable legs....3pcs Angular holders.......2pcs Plate fitting...1pcs

More information

PhD student, January 2010-December 2013

PhD student, January 2010-December 2013 Numerical modeling of wave current interactions ata a local scaleand and studyof turbulence closuremodel effects MARIA JOÃO TELES PhD student, January 2010-December 2013 Supervisor: António Pires-Silva,

More information

Modeling changes to the historic Lower Columbia River Estuary using Delft3D. Drew Mahedy Lumas Helaire Stefan Talke David Jay May 30, 2014

Modeling changes to the historic Lower Columbia River Estuary using Delft3D. Drew Mahedy Lumas Helaire Stefan Talke David Jay May 30, 2014 Modeling changes to the historic Lower Columbia River Estuary using Delft3D Drew Mahedy Lumas Helaire Stefan Talke David Jay May 30, 2014 Comparison: Historic and Modern LCRE US Coastal Survey, 1868 Historic

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management

Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management Environmental Problems in Coastal Regions VI 237 Low-crested offshore breakwaters: a functional tool for beach management K. Spyropoulos & E. Andrianis TRITON Consulting Engineers, Greece Abstract Beach

More information

EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE DISCHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF SLUICE FOR TIDAL POWER PLANT

EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE DISCHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF SLUICE FOR TIDAL POWER PLANT EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE DISCHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF SLUICE FOR TIDAL POWER PLANT Sang-Ho Oh 1, Kwang Soo Lee 1 and Dal Soo Lee 1 The discharge characteristics of sluice caisson for tidal power plant

More information

The impact of ocean bottom morphology on the modelling of long gravity waves from tides and tsunami to climate

The impact of ocean bottom morphology on the modelling of long gravity waves from tides and tsunami to climate The impact of ocean bottom morphology on the modelling of long gravity waves from tides and tsunami to climate Christian Le Provost and Florent Lyard Laboratoire d Etudes en Géophysique et Océanographie

More information

Modelling wave attenuation by vegetation with SWAN-VEG

Modelling wave attenuation by vegetation with SWAN-VEG Modelling wave attenuation by vegetation with SWAN-VEG Model evaluation and application to the Noordwaard polder Reinout de Oude January 2010 Modelling wave attenuation by vegetation with SWAN-VEG Model

More information

Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus)

Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) Cove Point Beach Restoration: Utilization of a Spawning Habitat by Horseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) Paul Bushmann, Jessica Peterson, Bethany Enyeart and Deborah Smith Anne Arundel Community College

More information

Wind Flow Validation Summary

Wind Flow Validation Summary IBHS Research Center Validation of Wind Capabilities The Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS) Research Center full-scale test facility provides opportunities to simulate natural wind conditions

More information

Goal: Develop quantitative understanding of ENSO genesis, evolution, and impacts

Goal: Develop quantitative understanding of ENSO genesis, evolution, and impacts The Delayed Oscillator Zebiak and Cane (1987) Model Other Theories Theory of ENSO teleconnections Goal: Develop quantitative understanding of ENSO genesis, evolution, and impacts The delayed oscillator

More information

DS/EN DK NA:2015

DS/EN DK NA:2015 National Annex to Eurocode 1: Actions on structures - Part 1-4: General actions - Wind actions Foreword This national annex (NA) is a reision of DS/EN 1991-1-4 DK NA:010-03 and addendu 1 of 010-03-30,

More information

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island.

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island. STOP #1: PACKERY CHANNEL BEACH TO BAY We will start this field guide near the north jetty of Packery Channel and hike across the island to Corpus Christi Bay (fig. 1). The island emerges from the Gulf

More information

Impact of the tides, wind and shelf circulation on the Gironde river plume dynamics

Impact of the tides, wind and shelf circulation on the Gironde river plume dynamics Impact of the tides, wind and shelf circulation on the Gironde river plume dynamics F. Toublanc 1, N. Ayoub 2, P. Marsaleix 3, P. De Mey 2 1 CNES/LEGOS 2 CNRS/LEGOS 3 CNRS/LA, Toulouse, France 5th GODAE

More information

Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs. Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith

Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs. Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith Wave Transformation Modeling with Bottom Friction Applied to the Southeast Oahu Reefs Mary A. Cialone and Jane McKee Smith Outline Objective Study Area STWAVE Friction Formulations Model Validation Summary

More information

Hydrodynamic Modeling of Tides and Hurricane Storm Surge for Pre- and Post-Dredging Conditions in the Lower St. Johns River, Florida

Hydrodynamic Modeling of Tides and Hurricane Storm Surge for Pre- and Post-Dredging Conditions in the Lower St. Johns River, Florida Hydrodynamic Modeling of Tides and Hurricane Storm Surge for Pre- and Post-Dredging Conditions in the Lower St. Johns River, Florida Matthew V. Bilskie 1 1 PhD Student, University of Central Florida, Department

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Lecture 22 Nearshore Circulation Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay within the

More information

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF STATIC INTERFERENCE EFFECTS FOR SINGLE BUILDINGS GROUP

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF STATIC INTERFERENCE EFFECTS FOR SINGLE BUILDINGS GROUP NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF STATIC INTERFERENCE EFFECTS FOR SINGLE BUILDINGS GROUP Xing-qian Peng, Chun-hui Zhang 2 and Chang-gui Qiao 2 Professor, College of Civil Engineering, Huaqiao University, Quanzhou,

More information

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS

STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS ABSTRACT STUDY ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION INTO RIVERS Min Roh 1, Xuan Tinh Nguyen 2, Hitoshi Tanaka 3 When tsunami wave propagation from the narrow river mouth, water surface is raised and fluctuated by long

More information

Geostrophic and Tidal Currents in the South China Sea, Area III: West Philippines

Geostrophic and Tidal Currents in the South China Sea, Area III: West Philippines Southeast Asian Fisheries Development Center Geostrophic and Tidal Currents in the South China Sea, Area III: West Philippines Anond Snidvongs Department od Marine Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok

More information

Ship waves in Tallinn Bay: Experimental and numerical study

Ship waves in Tallinn Bay: Experimental and numerical study Ship waves in Tallinn Bay: Experimental and numerical study Tomas Torsvik Bergen Center for Computational Science UNIFOB AS In collaboration with Tarmo Soomere Wave Engineering Centre for Nonlinear studies

More information

PARAMETRIZATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ABOVE SUBMERGED BAR BASED ON PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL TESTS

PARAMETRIZATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ABOVE SUBMERGED BAR BASED ON PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL TESTS Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

CMS Modeling of the North Coast of Puerto Rico

CMS Modeling of the North Coast of Puerto Rico CMS Modeling of the North Coast of Puerto Rico PRESENTED BY: Dr. Kelly Rankin Legault, Ph.D., P.E. 1 Dr. Alfredo Torruella, Ph.D. 2 1 USACE Jacksonville District 2 University of Puerto Rico October 2016

More information

Fish Habitat Design, Operation and Reclamation Worksheets for

Fish Habitat Design, Operation and Reclamation Worksheets for Fish Habitat Design, Operation and Reclaation Worksheets for Appendix A Project Location Worksheet Applicant Nae: Strea Nae: Watershed Nae: Fish Habitat Suitability Classification Water Quality Zone Operation

More information

Unit Activity Answer Sheet

Unit Activity Answer Sheet Geoetry Unit Activity Answer Sheet Unit: Extending to Three Diensions This Unit Activity will help you eet these educational goals: Matheatical Practices You will use atheatics to odel real-world situations.

More information

WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT

WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT WAVE OVERTOPPING AND RUBBLE MOUND STABILITY UNDER COMBINED LOADING OF WAVES AND CURRENT Sepehr Eslami A. and Marcel R.A. van Gent Coastal structures such as breakwaters are usually studied under wave loading

More information

Projectile Motion Lab (2019)

Projectile Motion Lab (2019) Nae: Date: Partner(s): Period: Projectile Motion Lab (2019) Object: Measure the velocity of a ball using two Photogates and coputer software for tiing. Apply concepts fro two-diensional kineatics to predict

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 The Atlantic County oceanfront shoreline consists of three barrier islands where the northern one, Little Beach Island and a third of the second, Brigantine Island, are undeveloped

More information

An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico

An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico Jack Morelock and Maritza Barreto An Update of Coastal Erosion in Puerto Rico Department of Marine Sciences, University of Puerto Rico at Mayagüez and Geography Department, University of Puerto Rico at

More information

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis

More information

consulting engineers and scientists

consulting engineers and scientists consulting engineers and scientists Coastal Processes Presented by: January 9, 2015 Varoujan Hagopian, P.E. F.ASCE Senior Consultant, Waterfront Engineer Living Shoreline Workshop Lets Remember Why We

More information

The Handtmann Armaturenfabrik. Safety without compromise. Safety valves for liquids, gases, and steam

The Handtmann Armaturenfabrik. Safety without compromise. Safety valves for liquids, gases, and steam The Handtann Araturenfabrik Safety without coproise for liquids, gases, and stea f Safety Valves FoodSafe Tradition Meets Innovation fro Handtann are first choice for hygienically sensitive product areas

More information

SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND

SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND Kos'yan R. 1, Kunz H. 2, Podymov l. 3 1 Prof.Dr.,The Southern Branch of the P.P.Shirshov Institute

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT

THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT THE EFFECT OF VARIOUS DIKE REINFORCEMENT ALTERNATIVES ON THE FLOOD SAFETY ASPECTS OF THE DELTADIKE CONCEPT Preliminary Final Report Master Thesis Written by Simon den Hengst Delft, 08 December 2012 Recent

More information

Wave Prediction in the Santa Barbara Channel

Wave Prediction in the Santa Barbara Channel Wave Prediction in the Santa Barbara Channel OCS Study MMS 2001-055 Final Technical Summary Final Study Report U.S. Department of the Interior Minerals Management Service Pacific OCS Region Wave Prediction

More information

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015

Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Beach profile surveys and morphological change, Otago Harbour entrance to Karitane May 2014 to June 2015 Prepared for Port Otago Ltd Martin Single September 2015 Shore Processes and Management Ltd Contact

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET

PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET PROPAGATION OF LONG-PERIOD WAVES INTO AN ESTUARY THROUGH A NARROW INLET Takumi Okabe, Shin-ichi Aoki and Shigeru Kato Department of Civil Engineering Toyohashi University of Technology Toyohashi, Aichi,

More information

An improvement in calculation method for apparel assembly line balancing

An improvement in calculation method for apparel assembly line balancing Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol.38, Septeber 2013, pp 259-264 An iproveent in calculation ethod for apparel assebly line balancing F Khosravi 1, a, A H Sadeghi 1 & F Jolai 2 1 Textile Departent,

More information

BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS

BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS Kyuhan Kim 1, Sungwon Shin 1, Chongkun Pyun 2, Hyundong Kim 3, and Nobuhisa Kobayashi 4 Two-dimensional and three-dimensional laboratory experiments

More information

HYDROSPHERE, OCEANS AND TIDES

HYDROSPHERE, OCEANS AND TIDES HYDROSPHERE, OCEANS AND TIDES Revision 10x10learning.com 1 Chapter 12. In the Earth s Atmosphere On surface of the Earth Under the ground Hydrosphere comprises of ALL WATER Water Vapour = 0.001% Is very

More information

TRANSPORT OF NEARSHORE DREDGE MATERIAL BERMS

TRANSPORT OF NEARSHORE DREDGE MATERIAL BERMS Proceedings of the 6 th International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling in Coastal and Port Engineering and Science (Coastlab16) Ottawa, Canada, May 10-13, 2016 Copyright : Creative Commons

More information

Presence of Connecting Channels in the Western Scheldt Estuary

Presence of Connecting Channels in the Western Scheldt Estuary Journal of Coastal Research 25 3 627 640 West Palm Beach, Florida May 2009 Presence of Connecting Channels in the Western Scheldt Estuary Cilia M. Swinkels, Claire M.C.J.L. Jeuken, Zheng B. Wang, and Robert

More information

COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND

COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND COASTAL PROTECTION AGAINST WIND-WAVE INDUCED EROSION USING SOFT AND POROUS STRUCTURES: A CASE STUDY AT LAKE BIEL, SWITZERLAND Selim M. Sayah 1 and Stephan Mai 2 1. Swiss Federal Institute of Technology

More information

PRINCIPLES OF FLUID FLOW AND SURFACE WAVES RIVERS, ESTUARIES, SEAS AND OCEANS. Leo C. van Rijn

PRINCIPLES OF FLUID FLOW AND SURFACE WAVES RIVERS, ESTUARIES, SEAS AND OCEANS. Leo C. van Rijn PRINCIPLES OF FLUID FLOW AND SURFACE WAVES IN RIVERS, ESTUARIES, SEAS AND OCEANS (Edition 2011) Leo C. van Rijn Physical Geography Other publications: Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries

More information

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks.

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Chapter 11 Tides A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Tidal range can be very large Tide - rhythmic oscillation of the ocean surface

More information

Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization

Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization Property Owner s Guide to Determining the Most Appropriate Stabilization Method Estuarine shorelines are dynamic features that experience continued erosion. Land is lost

More information

Simulation of hydraulic regime and sediment transport in the Mekong delta coast

Simulation of hydraulic regime and sediment transport in the Mekong delta coast Simulation of hydraulic regime and sediment transport in the Mekong delta coast 1. Introduction Coastal erosion in the Mekong Delta has been recorded in recent years and the erosion rate has been increasing

More information

EFFECTS OF WAVE, TIDAL CURRENT AND OCEAN CURRENT COEXISTENCE ON THE WAVE AND CURRENT PREDICTIONS IN THE TSUGARU STRAIT

EFFECTS OF WAVE, TIDAL CURRENT AND OCEAN CURRENT COEXISTENCE ON THE WAVE AND CURRENT PREDICTIONS IN THE TSUGARU STRAIT EFFECTS OF WAVE, TIDAL CURRENT AND OCEAN CURRENT COEXISTENCE ON THE WAVE AND CURRENT PREDICTIONS IN THE TSUGARU STRAIT Ayumi Saruwatari 1, Yoshihiro Yoneko 2 and Yu Tajima 3 The Tsugaru Strait between

More information

Tidally influenced environments. By Alex Tkaczyk, Henrique Menezes, and Isaac Foli

Tidally influenced environments. By Alex Tkaczyk, Henrique Menezes, and Isaac Foli Tidally influenced environments By Alex Tkaczyk, Henrique Menezes, and Isaac Foli Goals and aims Describe the role of tidal influence in depositional environments. - Deltas - Estuaries Provide an overview

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

EVOLUTION OF ALONGSHORE BATHYMETRIC VARIABILITY AROUND A MEGA-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT. Abstract

EVOLUTION OF ALONGSHORE BATHYMETRIC VARIABILITY AROUND A MEGA-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT. Abstract EVOLUTION OF ALONGSHORE BATHYMETRIC VARIABILITY AROUND A MEGA-SCALE BEACH NOURISHMENT Max Radermacher 1,2, Wessel Geerlof 1, Matthieu de Schipper 1,3, Bas Huisman 1,4, Stefan Aarninkhof 1 and Ad Reniers

More information