MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves"

Transcription

1 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves Figure 19.1 Do Ocean Surface Waves Present a Hazard?...a picture is worth a thousand words Tsunamis - giant shallow water waves this one devastating the city of Lisbon Portugal in 1755, which was already suffering from fast spreading fires caused by the earthquake that triggered the wave. Most of the city and much of its population had been completely destroyed. (NG) Figure 19.3 Ocean Swells Ocean swells from distant ocean storms grace a California beach surfer s paradise!. (ItO)

2 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 2 Figure 19.4 The Destructive Power of Coastal Ocean Waves (Santa Catalina Island California) (???) Figure 19.5 Open Ocean Chaotic Waves In the open ocean waves are coming from all directions with varying intensities, creating a chaotic sea surface (left). Waves with different wavelengths (rights) when combined form an irregular wave profile. (ItO, LEiO)

3 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 3 Figure 19.6 A Simple Surface Wave A wave is a periodic (or repeated) sea surface distance that is defined by its wave length L and its wave height H. (LEiO) Figure 19.7 Ocean Waves a Constant Competition Gravity restores a sea surface disturbance most often caused by wind towards flat-ocean equilibrium. Overshoots keep the cycle going in which the potential energy of elevation is converted to kinetic energy of motion and back again. (??)

4 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 4 Figure 19.8 The Wave Form Propagates Waves move horizontally they propagate away from their generation sites. (LEiO) Figure 19.9 Wave Mechanics Surface waves In the open ocean propagate horizontally (carrying their energy), HOWEVER, the water parcels associated with the passing wave DO NOT propagate! Rather they move in relatively small circles in place. (LEiO)

5 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 5 Figure Wave Propagation Speed The time it takes for a full wave with a wave length L to pass a fixed spot is called the wave period T. The wave speed C p is the ratio of the wave length to the period as shown above. (LEiO) Figure Wave Spectrum Waves are classified or sorted in a spectrum according to their wave periods, from the very smallest period capillary waves ( witht less than 0.1 sec) to ocean swell (T about 15 sec) to tsunamis (T about 20 min). The amount of energy in the particular wave classes is determined by the typical wave heights H in the class. The forces that cause the particular waves are indicated above. (ItO)

6 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 6 Figure Deep Water Waves A wave is classified as a Deep Water Wave, if the water depth D is greater than half of its wave length L. Below the depth = wave length, the water motion associated with this wave virtually disappears. Note the decreasing size of the wave parcel orbits. (LEiO) Figure Deep Water Wave Speed Deep water wave speed depends on wavelength. (LEiO)

7 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 7 Figure Shoaling Waves As deep water waves propagate into water shallower (depths D less than their wave length L), the ocean bottom interacts with the wave and the waves are transformed, as they shoal. The shoaling waves slow down and wave heights increase. (NH) Figure Shallow Water Waves Shallow water waves do not have the sinusoidal shape of deep water wave because the particle orbits are forced into narrowing ovals (bottom) as they move towards shore instead of the normal circular orbits. As the water gets shallower the wave height increases until gravity forces it to break (top) (LEiO)

8 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 8 Figure Shallow Water Wave Speed Shallow water wave speed depends on depth. (LEiO) Figure 20.2 Wave Energy Transmission & Wave Groups Deep ocean waves with slightly different wavelengths superimpose to form wave groups with speeds (C g ) that are half that of individual wave speeds (C p ). Because the individual waves move faster than the wave group and energy (C p = 2 C g ), individual waves are seen to (a) appear at the back of the wave group (b) propagate through the slower-moving wave group; and finally (c) disappear at the head of the wave group.

9 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 9 Figure 20.3 Deep Water Wave Energy Transmission Deep ocean waves with slightly different wavelengths form wave groups which are distinguished by their wave height envelope; which contains the wave energy. The wave group speed for deep water waves (C g ) is the wave speed C p. The form of the deep water wave group speed - given by the relation above - indicates that the longer wave length, deep water waves travel faster than shorter wave length waves. Figure 20.4 Shallow Water Wave Energy Transmission The shallow water wave group speed C g is equal to the wave speed C p and thus depends on only the local water depth D, according to the above.

10 MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 10 Figure 20.6 Open Ocean Wind Wave Generation and Dispersion (Upper) In the wind-generation region, the ocean is rough and chaotic because waves with all different wavelengths superimpose and interfere with each other (lower left). As the waves propagate toward the right and away from the generation zone, the waves sort according to wave group speed. The longer wavelength/longer period waves known as swell (lower right) race out ahead of the shorter wavelength/shorter period waves.. (ItO) Figure 20.7 The strong winter storms in the Southern Ocean generate waves that have a long time (& distance) to sort themselves out according to wave length before they strike the southwest facing shores of California. (NH, ItO)

MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves

MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves MAR 110 LECTURE #20 Storm-Generated Waves & Rogue Waves Wave Principles Review Figure 20.1 Wave Principles (ABOVE) A simple ocean surface wave is a sea level distortion that repeats itself over a distance

More information

Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted

Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Chapter 10 Waves Anatomy of a Wave more like a real wave Tsunamis, Internal waves big waves huge waves rogue waves small waves more like a sine wave Wave direction Wave wave

More information

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave?

Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan What is a wave? Waves Garrett McNamara, Portugal, 30 Jan 2013 What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards Rogue Wave Hazard Rogue waves are very large open ocean waves of sometimes can range in height from 60 ft (20m) to120 feet (40m) and thus a significant hazard to large

More information

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov

What is a wave? Even here the wave more or less keeps it s shape and travelled at a constant speed. YouTube. mexicanwave.mov Waves What is a wave? Waves transmit a disturbance / energy from one part of a material to another. The energy is transmitted without substantial movement of the material. Waves occur in lots of places,

More information

Waves. Types of Waves. Parts of a wave. Insert wind_wave.wmv. Shark attack

Waves. Types of Waves. Parts of a wave. Insert wind_wave.wmv. Shark attack Waves Recall: Waves = transmitted energy What causes waves? Wind gravity Earthquakes We will talk about all of these, but first Insert wind_wave.wmv Shark attack Types of Waves Body waves transmit energy

More information

El Niño Southern Oscillation. Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years

El Niño Southern Oscillation. Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years El Niño Southern Oscillation Pressure systems over Darwin Australia and Tahiti Oscillate Typically occurs every 4-7 years 1 2 What is it? Normal Conditions... What is it? During El Niño. 3 Local Effects

More information

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion Ocean Waves 1 2 1 A Little Math Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T 3 Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion 4 2 Motion of Water as Wave Passes Water in the crest of the wave move

More information

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C)

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C) Waves Part II Previously we discussed Surface Gravity Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves C g T 2 C g h dispersive (C g =C/2) Definitions: phase speed C= /T= /k non-dispersive (C g =C) group speed

More information

Oceans - Laboratory 12

Oceans - Laboratory 12 Oceans - Laboratory 12 (Name) How do ocean waves form? All waves are disturbances of a fluid medium through which energy is moved (Davis, 1997). Ocean waves travel on the interface between oceans and the

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?!

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?! Ocean Waves What is a Wave? A response to a generating force (in this case a pebble thrown into a pond) System returns to normal through restoring force (in this case, surface tension of the water) Ripple

More information

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate

What are Waves? Earthquake. Waving flags. Vocal Cords Vibrate Waves Ch. 10 What are Waves? All waves are movement of energy through a medium (air, rock, water) Series of vibrations or undulations in a medium Wave types: ocean, sound, light, seismic Vocal Cords Vibrate

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Swell and Wave Forecasting

Swell and Wave Forecasting Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 30 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number

More information

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch)

WIND SPEED LENGTH OF TIME WIND BLOWS (Duration) DISTANCE OVER WHICH IT BLOWS (Fetch) WAVES Up and down movement of ocean surface Transportation of energy across the water over vast distances If not stopped by anything, waves can travel entire oceans Size and speed depend upon: WIND SPEED

More information

Swell and Wave Forecasting

Swell and Wave Forecasting Lecture 25 Swell and Wave Forecasting Swell and Wave Forecasting Motivation Terminology Wave Formation Wave Decay Wave Refraction Shoaling Rouge Waves 1 2 Motivation In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related

More information

Waves. G. Cowles. General Physical Oceanography MAR 555. School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth

Waves. G. Cowles. General Physical Oceanography MAR 555. School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth Waves G. Cowles General Physical Oceanography MAR 555 School for Marine Sciences and Technology Umass-Dartmouth Waves Sound Waves Light Waves Surface Waves Radio Waves Tidal Waves Instrument Strings How

More information

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves CHAPTER 10 WAVES Section 10.1 Types of Waves What does a wave carry? How are waves generated? What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal waves? How do the particles in ocean waves

More information

Waves and Water By ReadWorks

Waves and Water By ReadWorks Waves and Water Waves and Water By ReadWorks When a big boat, like a cruise ship, goes through the ocean, it often creates waves. This happens when the large engines on the back of the cruise ship churn

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides

MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides 27 October 2007 MAR110_Lec22_standing Waves_tides_27oct07.doc 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #22 Standing Waves and Tides Coastal Zone Beach Profile Figure 22.1 Beach Profile Summer Onshore Sand Transport Breaking

More information

SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES

SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES NAME SURFACE CURRENTS AND TIDES I. Origin of surface currents Surface currents arise due to the interaction of the prevailing wis a the ocean surface. Hence the surface wi pattern (Figure 1) plays a key

More information

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate

More information

Wave Propagation and Shoaling

Wave Propagation and Shoaling Wave Propagation and Shoaling Focus on movement and natural alteration of the characteristics of waves as they travel from the source region toward shore Waves moving from deep to intermediate/shallow

More information

Wave Motion. interference destructive interferecne constructive interference in phase. out of phase standing wave antinodes resonant frequencies

Wave Motion. interference destructive interferecne constructive interference in phase. out of phase standing wave antinodes resonant frequencies Wave Motion Vocabulary mechanical waves pulse continuous periodic wave amplitude period wavelength period wave velocity phase transverse wave longitudinal wave intensity displacement amplitude phase velocity

More information

The behaviour of tsunamis

The behaviour of tsunamis 195 The behaviour of tsunamis Maurice N. Brearley 1 Introduction The behaviour of tsunamis is not easily understood. Readers comments on a recently published paper [3] show that a mathematical analysis

More information

Announcements. Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan. Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves

Announcements. Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan. Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves Announcements Next project due online Nov. 6th A week of waves Today: Gravity waves Thursday: Tidal waves Figure from Science, 3 September, 005 Explosions at the Fukushima nuclear power plant, Japan 0

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves.

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Section 1 Types of Waves Objectives Recognize that waves transfer energy. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Explain the relationship between particle vibration and wave motion.

More information

Outline Chapter 7 Waves

Outline Chapter 7 Waves Outline Chapter 7 Waves 7-1. Water Waves 7-2. Transverse and Longitudinal Waves 7-3. Describing Waves 7-4. Standing Waves 7-5. Sound 7-6. Doppler Effect 7-7. Musical Sounds 7-8. Electromagnetic Waves 7-9.

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves

Section 1 Types of Waves CHAPTER OUTLINE Section 1 Types of Waves Key Idea questions > What does a wave carry? > How are waves generated? > What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal wave? > How do the

More information

WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY

WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY WAVES, WAVE BEHAVIOR, GEOPHYSICS AND SOUND REVIEW ANSWER KEY Instructions: Show all of your work completely in your journal, including the equations used in variable form. Pay attention to sig figs and

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #16 Tides

MAR 110 LECTURE #16 Tides MAR 110: Lecture 16 Outline Tides 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #16 Tides Tides Are Waves Tidal wave energy is concentrated at periods of approximately 12 and 24 hours. (ItO) Equilibrium Tidal Forcing The theoretical

More information

Transverse waves cause particles to vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave's motion (e.g. waves on a string, ripples on a pond).

Transverse waves cause particles to vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave's motion (e.g. waves on a string, ripples on a pond). Waves Introduction A vibration must be the source of a wave. Waves in turn also cause vibrations. They are intrinsically connected. Waves transmit energy. There are different ways in which waves can be

More information

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis

More information

Waves-Wave Basics. 1. Which type of wave requires a material medium through which to travel? 1. sound 2. television 3. radio 4.

Waves-Wave Basics. 1. Which type of wave requires a material medium through which to travel? 1. sound 2. television 3. radio 4. Waves-Wave Basics 1. Which type of wave requires a material medium through which to travel? 1. sound 2. television 3. radio 4. x ray 2. A single vibratory disturbance moving through a medium is called

More information

Waves. harmonic wave wave equation one dimensional wave equation principle of wave fronts plane waves law of reflection

Waves. harmonic wave wave equation one dimensional wave equation principle of wave fronts plane waves law of reflection Waves Vocabulary mechanical wave pulse continuous periodic wave amplitude wavelength period frequency wave velocity phase transverse wave longitudinal wave intensity displacement wave number phase velocity

More information

Section 1: Types of Waves

Section 1: Types of Waves Waves Section 1 Section 1: Types of Waves Preview Key Ideas Bellringer What Is a Wave? Vibrations and Waves Transverse and Longitudinal Waves Surface Waves Waves Section 1 Key Ideas What does a wave carry?

More information

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2.

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2. Energy can be transported by particles or waves: Chapter 11 Waves A wave is characterized as some sort of disturbance that travels away from a source. The key difference between particles and waves is

More information

Core Concept. PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e. Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound. New Symbols for this Chapter 2/20/2011

Core Concept. PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e. Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound. New Symbols for this Chapter 2/20/2011 PowerPoint Lectures Physical Science, 8e Chapter 5 Wave Motions and Sound New Symbols for this Chapter T-Period f-frequency v-wave speed λ-wavelength A-Amplitude Sound is transmitted as increased and decreased

More information

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used. Assessment Chapter Test B The Movement of Ocean Water USING KEY TERMS Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

More information

Airy Wave Theory 1: Wave Length and Celerity

Airy Wave Theory 1: Wave Length and Celerity Airy Wave Theory 1: Wave Length and Celerity Wave Theories Mathematical relationships to describe: (1) the wave form, (2) the water motion (throughout the fluid column) and pressure in waves, and (3) how

More information

WAVES. Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science

WAVES. Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science WAVES Mr. Banks 8 th Grade Science WAVES A wave is a disturbance that transfers, or carries energy from one place to another. Classified by what they move through For mechanical Waves energy is transferred

More information

4754(B)/01 MATHEMATICS (MEI) ADVANCED GCE UNIT. Applications of Advanced Mathematics (C4) Paper B: Comprehension INSERT THURSDAY 14 JUNE 2007 PMT

4754(B)/01 MATHEMATICS (MEI) ADVANCED GCE UNIT. Applications of Advanced Mathematics (C4) Paper B: Comprehension INSERT THURSDAY 14 JUNE 2007 PMT ADVANCED GCE UNIT MATHEMATICS (MEI) Applications of Advanced Mathematics (C4) Paper B: Comprehension INSERT THURSDAY 14 JUNE 2007 4754(B)/01 Afternoon Time: Up to 1 hour INSTRUCTIONS TO CANDIDATES This

More information

Physical Science Ch. 10: Waves

Physical Science Ch. 10: Waves Physical Science Ch. 10: Waves A wave is a rhythmic disturbance which carries energy NOT matter. A medium is a material through which a wave transfers energy. Some Waves, but not all, require a medium

More information

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND Sec. 17.2 - Mechanical Waves Mechanical Wave - disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. Mechanical waves require matter called a MEDIUM to travel

More information

The oceans are vast not only in size, but also in their ability to store and release energy.

The oceans are vast not only in size, but also in their ability to store and release energy. WHAT ENERGIES ARE ASSOCIATED WITH EARTH S OCEANS? The oceans are vast not only in size, but also in their ability to store and release energy. Scientists recognize various forms of energy in nature. Many

More information

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND Sec. 17.2 - Mechanical Waves Mechanical Wave - disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. Mechanical waves require matter called a MEDIUM to travel

More information

Synoptic Lab, MET 421, Test 2

Synoptic Lab, MET 421, Test 2 Name Synoptic Lab, MET 421, Test 2 1) For a 15 ms -1 east wind blowing towards Milwaukee a) Calculate the distance to the east shore of Lake Michigan. You can use a distance calculator website such as

More information

Waves Unit II: Waves in the Ocean (3.5 pts)

Waves Unit II: Waves in the Ocean (3.5 pts) T. James Noyes, El Camino College Waves Unit I: The Nature of Waves (Topic 5A-1) page 1 Name: Section: Waves Unit II: Waves in the Ocean (3.5 pts) Changes in Wave Height, Wavelength, and Wave Speed at

More information

Preview. Vibrations and Waves Section 1. Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 3 Properties of Waves

Preview. Vibrations and Waves Section 1. Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion. Section 3 Properties of Waves Vibrations and Waves Section 1 Preview Section 1 Simple Harmonic Motion Section 2 Measuring Simple Harmonic Motion Section 3 Properties of Waves Section 4 Wave Interactions Vibrations and Waves Section

More information

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves.

Organize information about waves. Differentiate two main types of waves. Lesson 1 Waves Scan Lesson 1. Read the lesson titles and bold words. Look at the pictures. Identify three facts you discovered about waves. Record your facts in your Science Journal. What are waves? Organize

More information

The Composition of Seawater

The Composition of Seawater The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

Mechanical Waves and Sound

Mechanical Waves and Sound Mechanical Waves and Sound Mechanical Wave Medium Crest Trough Transverse wave Compression Rarefaction Longitudinal wave Surface wave Some Vocab to Know What are Mechanical Waves? Mechanical wave: disturbance

More information

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS Skills Worksheet Directed Reading Section: Ocean Currents 1. A horizontal movement of water in a well-defined pattern is called a(n). 2. What are two ways that oceanographers identify ocean currents? 3.

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2.

Chapter 11 Waves. Waves transport energy without transporting matter. The intensity is the average power per unit area. It is measured in W/m 2. Chapter 11 Waves Energy can be transported by particles or waves A wave is characterized as some sort of disturbance that travels away from a source. The key difference between particles and waves is a

More information

Waves, Light, and Sound

Waves, Light, and Sound CHAPTER 14 Waves, Light, and Sound LESSON 1 Waves What do you think? Read the two statements below and decide whether you agree or disagree with them. Place an A in the Before column if you agree with

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

17.1: Mechanical Waves

17.1: Mechanical Waves New Standard SPS9: Students will investigate the properties of waves. a. Recognize that all waves transfer energy. b. Relate frequency and wavelength to the energy of different types of electromagnetic

More information

Chapter 20 - Waves. A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another.

Chapter 20 - Waves. A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another. Section 20.1 - Waves Chapter 20 - Waves A wave - Eg: A musician s instrument; a cell phone call & a stone thrown into a pond A wave carries from one place to another. Waves can change motion, we know that

More information

a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through

a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through WAVES WAVES a disturbance that transfers energy Carries energy from one place to another Classified by what they move through 1. Mechanical Waves the energy is transferred by vibrations of medium (medium

More information

Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound. Clear Creek High School

Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound. Clear Creek High School Pre AP Physics: Unit 7 Vibrations, Waves, and Sound Clear Creek High School Simple Harmonic Motion Simple Harmonic Motion Constant periodic motion of an object. An object oscillates back and forth along

More information

INTRODUCTION TO WAVES. Dr. Watchara Liewrian

INTRODUCTION TO WAVES. Dr. Watchara Liewrian INTRODUCTION TO WAVES Dr. Watchara Liewrian What are Waves? Rhythmic disturbances that carry energy without carrying matter Types of Waves Mechanical Waves need matter (or medium) to transfer energy A

More information

SEASONDE DETECTION OF TSUNAMI WAVES

SEASONDE DETECTION OF TSUNAMI WAVES SEASONDE DETECTION OF TSUNAMI WAVES Belinda Lipa, John Bourg, Jimmy Isaacson, Don Barrick, and Laura Pederson 1 I. INTRODUCTION We here report on preliminary results of a study to assess the capability

More information

MECHANICAL WAVES AND SOUND

MECHANICAL WAVES AND SOUND MECHANICAL WAVES AND SOUND Waves Substances have a stable equilibrium state Uniform pressure everywhere throughout the substance Atomic springs are at their equilibrium length Can make a wave by disturbing

More information

The events associated with the Great Tsunami of 26 December 2004 Sea Level Variation and Impact on Coastal Region of India

The events associated with the Great Tsunami of 26 December 2004 Sea Level Variation and Impact on Coastal Region of India The events associated with the Great Tsunami of 26 December 2004 Sea Level Variation and Impact on Coastal Region of India Satish R. Shetye National Institute of Oceanography, Goa Tsunamis are shallow-water

More information

Ocean Waves and Surf Forecasting: Wave Climate and Forecasting

Ocean Waves and Surf Forecasting: Wave Climate and Forecasting Overview Ocean Waves and Surf Forecasting: Wave Climate and Forecasting Ocean regions Characterizing and describing ocean waves Wave theory, propagation, and dispersion Refraction, shadowing, and bathymetry

More information

Equilibrium Model of Tides

Equilibrium Model of Tides Tides Outline Equilibrium Theory of Tides diurnal, semidiurnal and mixed semidiurnal tides spring and neap tides Dynamic Theory of Tides rotary tidal motion larger tidal ranges in coastal versus open-ocean

More information

For Educational and Non-Profit Use Only!

For Educational and Non-Profit Use Only! This flyer was originally created and published in Japanese by Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan. UNESCO IOC ITIC provides this English translation for portions of the original document with the kind permission

More information

The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap.

The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. Wave Hydrodynamics. Beach Terminology The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. (From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994.

More information

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves

OCN 201 Tides. Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves OCN 201 Tides Tsunamis, Tides and other long waves Storm surges Caused by winds and low atmospheric pressure associated with large storms Can raise sea surface by up to 25 ft, bottom contours magnify effect

More information

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity

Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity Natural Bridges Field Trip Activity This is due in class on MONDAY- March 1 - not in sections! Name TA: NOTE ON THE GRADING OF THIS ASSIGNMENT: Many of the questions below (especially in the tidepool part)

More information

Waves Wave Characteristics

Waves Wave Characteristics Name: Date: Waves 4.4 Wave Characteristics. A transverse travelling wave has amplitude A 0 and wavelength λ. The distance between a crest and its neighbouring trough, measured in the direction of energy

More information

Lesson 14: Simple harmonic motion, Waves (Sections )

Lesson 14: Simple harmonic motion, Waves (Sections ) Circular Motion and Simple Harmonic Motion The projection of uniform circular motion along any ais (the -ais here) is the same as simple harmonic motion. We use our understanding of uniform circular motion

More information

SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES

SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES WAVES!!!! SECTION 1 & 2 WAVES & MECHANICAL WAVES What is a Wave? A wave is a disturbance that travels through space or matter. When undisturbed, the water is found in its equilibrium or rest position.

More information

Parts of Longitudinal Waves A compression

Parts of Longitudinal Waves A compression 1 Waves All substantive material is from Wave Motion and Sound by James Dann. http://www.ck12.org/flexr/ unless otherwise noted. Illustrations are copyright free. Objects in motion that return to the same

More information

How do waves transfer energy?

How do waves transfer energy? waves chapter 5 167 How do waves transfer energy? Standard 5: Students will understand the properties and applications of waves. Standard 5, Objective 1: Demonstrate an understanding of mechanical waves

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

MAR 555 Lecture 20: Coastal Tides

MAR 555 Lecture 20: Coastal Tides MAR 555 Lecture 20: Coastal Tides Tides caused by the resulting gravitational and centrifugal forces is called equilibrium tide. They can be expressed using the harmonic functions as N semi! e(semi) =

More information

Computational Analysis of Oil Spill in Shallow Water due to Wave and Tidal Motion Madhu Agrawal Durai Dakshinamoorthy

Computational Analysis of Oil Spill in Shallow Water due to Wave and Tidal Motion Madhu Agrawal Durai Dakshinamoorthy Computational Analysis of Oil Spill in Shallow Water due to Wave and Tidal Motion Madhu Agrawal Durai Dakshinamoorthy 1 OUTLINE Overview of Oil Spill & its Impact Technical Challenges for Modeling Review

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

Waves. Kevin Small or

Waves. Kevin Small   or Waves Opening note: X-rays can penetrate your body. Sound waves can make thinks vibrate; water waves can knock you over in the sea. Infrared waves can warm you up and slinky waves are fun to play with.

More information

Question. A. Incorrect! Check the definition for period. B. Incorrect! Check the definition for speed.

Question. A. Incorrect! Check the definition for period. B. Incorrect! Check the definition for speed. AP Physics - Problem Drill 11: Vibrations and Waves. Instruction: (1) Read the problem statement and answer choices carefully (2) Work the problems on paper as 1. The following definitions are used to

More information

Chapter 15 Wave Motion. Copyright 2009 Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 15 Wave Motion. Copyright 2009 Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 15 Wave Motion 15-1 Characteristics of Wave Motion All types of traveling waves transport energy. Study of a single wave pulse shows that it is begun with a vibration and is transmitted through

More information

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE Chapter 2 Section 1 1. Most abundant salt in ocean. Sodium chloride; NaCl 2. Amount of Earth covered by Water 71% 3. Four oceans: What are they? Atlantic, Pacific, Arctic, Indian

More information

MS.RAJA ELGADY/WAVES PAPER3

MS.RAJA ELGADY/WAVES PAPER3 1- (a) Fig. 7.1 shows the surface of water in a tank. barrier For Examiner s Use Fig. 7.1 Straight wavefronts are produced at the left-hand end of the tank and travel towards a gap in a barrier. Curved

More information

Force & Motion. Objective 6.P.1. 6.P.1 Understand the properties of waves and the wavelike property of energy in earthquakes, light and sound.

Force & Motion. Objective 6.P.1. 6.P.1 Understand the properties of waves and the wavelike property of energy in earthquakes, light and sound. Force & Motion Objective 6.P.1 Date: 6.P.1 Understand the properties of waves and the wavelike property of energy in earthquakes, light and sound. 6.P.1.1 Compare the properties of waves to the wavelike

More information

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

Ch 9: Waves. Wind waves. Formation of a wind wave

Ch 9: Waves. Wind waves. Formation of a wind wave Ch 9: Waves 1. Features of Waves 2. Deep-water, shallow water and transitional waves 3. Breaking Waves 4. Wind Waves 5. Tsunamis Cf. Fig. 9-2 Waves are created by a disturbance. * wind (wind waves, L=

More information

Waves. Swell, Surf, and Tides

Waves. Swell, Surf, and Tides Waves Swell, Surf, and Tides Tsunamis Tsunamis Waves of Destruction Seismic Sea Waves Seismic Sea Waves Most tsunamis are generated by earthquakes Seismic Sea Waves Most tsunamis are generated by earthquakes

More information

Physics Mechanics

Physics Mechanics 1 Physics 170 - Mechanics Lecture 33 Waves Wave notion 2 A wave pulse is a disturbance that propagates through a medium. It transfers energy without transferring matter; the energy is a combination of

More information

SNAKY SPRING WAVE DEMONSTRATION ITEM # ENERGY - MOTION

SNAKY SPRING WAVE DEMONSTRATION ITEM # ENERGY - MOTION T E A C H E G U I R D S E SNAKY SPRING WAVE DEMONSTRATION ITEM # 3640-00 ENERGY - MOTION Waves are all around us. From sound waves, to electromagnetic waves, to seismic waves, we experience wave motion

More information

LONG METAL SPRING ITEM # ENERGY - MOTION

LONG METAL SPRING ITEM # ENERGY - MOTION T E A C H E G U I R D S E LONG METAL SPRING ITEM # 3638-01 ENERGY - MOTION Waves are all around us. From sound waves, to electromagnetic waves, to seismic waves, we experience wave motion on a daily basis.

More information

Search the Sea. By Sadie Young

Search the Sea. By Sadie Young Search the Sea By Sadie Young Table of Contents In and Out..1 A Tsunami and a Hurricane...2 The Moon and the Tide.3 Amazing Ocean Animals...4 Ocean Needs Help....5 Glossary.....6 1 In and Out Have you

More information

SIO 210 Introduction to Physical Oceanography Mid-term examination November 4, 2013; 50 minutes

SIO 210 Introduction to Physical Oceanography Mid-term examination November 4, 2013; 50 minutes SIO 210 Introduction to Physical Oceanography Mid-term examination November 4, 2013; 50 minutes Closed book; one sheet of your own notes is allowed. A calculator is allowed. (100 total points.) Possibly

More information

PHYSICS. Waves & Simple Harmonic Motion

PHYSICS. Waves & Simple Harmonic Motion PHYSICS Waves & Simple Harmonic Motion A repeating back-and-forth motion about an equilibrium position is a vibration. A disturbance that is transmitted progressively from one place to the next with no

More information

Reflection (continued)

Reflection (continued) Wave Behavior Reflection Reflection occurs when a wave strikes an object or surface and bounces off. An echo is reflected sound. Sound reflects from all surfaces. You see your face in a mirror or a still

More information

SCIENCE STUDENT BOOK. 12th Grade Unit 4

SCIENCE STUDENT BOOK. 12th Grade Unit 4 SCIENCE STUDENT BOOK 12th Grade Unit 4 Unit 4 INTRODUCTION TO WAVES SCIENCE 1204 INTRODUCTION TO WAVES INTRODUCTION 3 1. ENERGY TRANSFER 5 PULSES 6 PERIODIC WAVES 8 SELF TEST 1 14 2. WAVE PHENOMENA 16

More information

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents The Movement of Ocean Water Currents Ocean Current movement of ocean water that follows a regular pattern influenced by: weather Earth s rotation position of continents Surface current horizontal movement

More information