Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches
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1 Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches
2 Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule
3 San Pedro Lighthouse
4 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals
5 Amplitude Crest Wave period or Wavelength Trough Amplitude Height
6 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals only add-up, always i.e., wave interference can be constructive and/or destructive
7 1 0.5 A B C -1
8 A B C = A+B
9 1 0.5 B A C
10 Waves interference is always additive This is the algebraic sum of these
11 1 Wave interference can be constructive or destructive
12 1 0-1 Destructive Destructive interference interference Constructive Constructive Constructive interference interference interference
13 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals only add-up, always i.e., wave interference can be constructive and/or destructive carry energy, not matter light is an exception, it travels in waves and as particles
14 Wave speed or velocity (cm/s) Capillary waves Gravity waves in deepwater, V 1.25 L Wavelength (cm)
15 Circular path: waves of oscillation Waves carry energy, not matter The orbital motion of representative water molecules: orbital size decreases with depth, with negligible water motion at depth ½ wavelength Elliptical path: waves of translation
16 Waves break on reaching the shore. Why?
17 Waves break as the succeeding waves catch up with preceding waves
18 Spilling breakers form when the bottom slopes gradually
19 Plunging or or surging breakers form when the the bottom slope is is steep
20 Three factors affect wind wave development: (a) Wind speed, (b) Wind duration, and (c) Fetch
21 Conditions conducive of a fully developed sea Wind Conditions Wind speed Fetch Wind duration Average height Wave Size Average Length Average period 19 km/hr (10 knots) 37 km/hr (20 knots) 56 km/hr (30 knots) 74 km/hr (40 knots) 92 km/hr (50 knots) 19 km 139 km 518 km 1313 km 2627 km 2 hr 10 hr 23 hr 42 hr 69 hr 0.27 m 1.5 m 4.1 m 8.5 m 14.8 m 8.5 m 33.8 m 76.5 m 136 m 212 m 3.0 sec 5.7 sec 8.6 sec 11.4 sec 14.3 sec
22 Wave energy versus wavelength for fully developed sea: Stronger winds generate waves that are both longer and more energetic, on average 75 km/hr Relative wave energy 55 km/hr 37 km/hr Wavelength (m)
23
24 Lunar Phases First Quarter Full Moon New Moon Third Quarter
25 Spring Tides occur when the lunar and solar gravitational pulls add up Full Moon New Moon
26 Third Quarter Neap Tides occur when lunar and solar gravitational First Quarter pulls are mutually perpendicular
27 Tides can be SPRING and NEAP, depending on the relative positions of Sun and Moon DIURNAL, SEMIDIURNAL or MIXED, depending on their daily cycles
28
29 1 Wave interference can be constructive or destructive
30 1 0-1 Destructive Destructive interference interference Constructive Constructive Constructive interference interference interference
31 1 0.5 B A C
32 Tides can be 1. Diurnal: or once daily 2. Semidiurnal or twice daily and 3. Mixed
33 Semidiurnal tides are more common than diurnal and mixed tides
34 The travel-path of the tsunami of April 1, 1946
35
36
37
38
39 Active oceancontinent margins should expect tsunamis more frequently than the passive ones
40 The map below shows the position of the leading wave of a tsunami generated by a 1979 earthquake offshore Colombia, South America*. These contours are for the tsunami arrival times in hours. *K. Ida & T. Iwasaki (Ed.): Tsunamis: Their Science and Engineering (D. Reidel, Boston MA, 1983)
41 Consider an earthquake with its epicenter at Honolulu, Hawaii. The corresponding tsunami travel times (in hours) from Hawaii are given in this map of 4 the Pacific 2 Ocean
42 Coasts can be active or passive erosional or depositional
43 Parts of a beach
44 Wave refraction along a straight coast
45 The gentler the beach slope, the finer the beach sediments tend to be, as can be seen from these profiles of the Half Moon Bay, California. Elevation (ft) Distance (ft)
46 Depth from sea-surface (m) Seawater temperature ( C) June September September March August May Thermocline at the Carmel November January Beach is seasonal...
47 Height above mean low water (m) and so is the beach profile. August April September July June February December May Distance from the sea cliff (m)
48 Seawater Temperature Depth Winter Summer Beach profile Winter Depth Summer Sea surface
49 Longshore current and littoral drift
50 hese two pictures of Sandy Beach (shown by cross here), New Jersey, were taken in 1940 left) and 1963 (right). Can we infer from these that N X X
51 How baymouth bars and spits form
52 ormation of a tambolo
53 Coastal straightening by wave-erosion
54 The development of a wave-cut platform
55
56
57 Deltas can be 1. tide-dominated, river dominated, and wave-dominated
58 Continental shelf, slope, and submarine canyon
59 A submarine canyon is a collapsed river channel
60 How construction modifies the shoreline: The constructing a groin or a pier, i.e., a structure perpendicular to the shoreline
61 How construction modifies the shoreline: Constructing a breakwater wall means sand pileup right behind the breakwater wall and erosion downstream
62 Santa Barbara Harbor
63
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