Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Save this PDF as:
 WORD  PNG  TXT  JPG

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches"

Transcription

1 Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches

2 Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule

3 San Pedro Lighthouse

4 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals

5 Amplitude Crest Wave period or Wavelength Trough Amplitude Height

6 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals only add-up, always i.e., wave interference can be constructive and/or destructive

7 1 0.5 A B C -1

8 A B C = A+B

9 1 0.5 B A C

10 Waves interference is always additive This is the algebraic sum of these

11 1 Wave interference can be constructive or destructive

12 1 0-1 Destructive Destructive interference interference Constructive Constructive Constructive interference interference interference

13 Waves are alternate rises and falls, describable as simple/complex sinusoidals only add-up, always i.e., wave interference can be constructive and/or destructive carry energy, not matter light is an exception, it travels in waves and as particles

14 Wave speed or velocity (cm/s) Capillary waves Gravity waves in deepwater, V 1.25 L Wavelength (cm)

15 Circular path: waves of oscillation Waves carry energy, not matter The orbital motion of representative water molecules: orbital size decreases with depth, with negligible water motion at depth ½ wavelength Elliptical path: waves of translation

16 Waves break on reaching the shore. Why?

17 Waves break as the succeeding waves catch up with preceding waves

18 Spilling breakers form when the bottom slopes gradually

19 Plunging or or surging breakers form when the the bottom slope is is steep

20 Three factors affect wind wave development: (a) Wind speed, (b) Wind duration, and (c) Fetch

21 Conditions conducive of a fully developed sea Wind Conditions Wind speed Fetch Wind duration Average height Wave Size Average Length Average period 19 km/hr (10 knots) 37 km/hr (20 knots) 56 km/hr (30 knots) 74 km/hr (40 knots) 92 km/hr (50 knots) 19 km 139 km 518 km 1313 km 2627 km 2 hr 10 hr 23 hr 42 hr 69 hr 0.27 m 1.5 m 4.1 m 8.5 m 14.8 m 8.5 m 33.8 m 76.5 m 136 m 212 m 3.0 sec 5.7 sec 8.6 sec 11.4 sec 14.3 sec

22 Wave energy versus wavelength for fully developed sea: Stronger winds generate waves that are both longer and more energetic, on average 75 km/hr Relative wave energy 55 km/hr 37 km/hr Wavelength (m)

23

24 Lunar Phases First Quarter Full Moon New Moon Third Quarter

25 Spring Tides occur when the lunar and solar gravitational pulls add up Full Moon New Moon

26 Third Quarter Neap Tides occur when lunar and solar gravitational First Quarter pulls are mutually perpendicular

27 Tides can be SPRING and NEAP, depending on the relative positions of Sun and Moon DIURNAL, SEMIDIURNAL or MIXED, depending on their daily cycles

28

29 1 Wave interference can be constructive or destructive

30 1 0-1 Destructive Destructive interference interference Constructive Constructive Constructive interference interference interference

31 1 0.5 B A C

32 Tides can be 1. Diurnal: or once daily 2. Semidiurnal or twice daily and 3. Mixed

33 Semidiurnal tides are more common than diurnal and mixed tides

34 The travel-path of the tsunami of April 1, 1946

35

36

37

38

39 Active oceancontinent margins should expect tsunamis more frequently than the passive ones

40 The map below shows the position of the leading wave of a tsunami generated by a 1979 earthquake offshore Colombia, South America*. These contours are for the tsunami arrival times in hours. *K. Ida & T. Iwasaki (Ed.): Tsunamis: Their Science and Engineering (D. Reidel, Boston MA, 1983)

41 Consider an earthquake with its epicenter at Honolulu, Hawaii. The corresponding tsunami travel times (in hours) from Hawaii are given in this map of 4 the Pacific 2 Ocean

42 Coasts can be active or passive erosional or depositional

43 Parts of a beach

44 Wave refraction along a straight coast

45 The gentler the beach slope, the finer the beach sediments tend to be, as can be seen from these profiles of the Half Moon Bay, California. Elevation (ft) Distance (ft)

46 Depth from sea-surface (m) Seawater temperature ( C) June September September March August May Thermocline at the Carmel November January Beach is seasonal...

47 Height above mean low water (m) and so is the beach profile. August April September July June February December May Distance from the sea cliff (m)

48 Seawater Temperature Depth Winter Summer Beach profile Winter Depth Summer Sea surface

49 Longshore current and littoral drift

50 hese two pictures of Sandy Beach (shown by cross here), New Jersey, were taken in 1940 left) and 1963 (right). Can we infer from these that N X X

51 How baymouth bars and spits form

52 ormation of a tambolo

53 Coastal straightening by wave-erosion

54 The development of a wave-cut platform

55

56

57 Deltas can be 1. tide-dominated, river dominated, and wave-dominated

58 Continental shelf, slope, and submarine canyon

59 A submarine canyon is a collapsed river channel

60 How construction modifies the shoreline: The constructing a groin or a pier, i.e., a structure perpendicular to the shoreline

61 How construction modifies the shoreline: Constructing a breakwater wall means sand pileup right behind the breakwater wall and erosion downstream

62 Santa Barbara Harbor

63

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

The Composition of Seawater

The Composition of Seawater The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted

Chapter 10 Waves. wave energy NOT the water particles moves across the surface of the sea. wave form moves and with it, energy is transmitted Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Chapter 10 Waves Anatomy of a Wave more like a real wave Tsunamis, Internal waves big waves huge waves rogue waves small waves more like a sine wave Wave direction Wave wave

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion

A Little Math. Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T. Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion Ocean Waves 1 2 1 A Little Math Wave speed = wave length/wave period C= L/T 3 Relationship of Wave Length to Depth of Wave Motion 4 2 Motion of Water as Wave Passes Water in the crest of the wave move

More information

Marginal Marine Environments

Marginal Marine Environments Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed

More information

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created

The movement of ocean water is a powerful thing. Waves created 16. Waves and Tides Section 16. 1 FOCUS Key Concepts From where do ocean waves obtain their energy? What three factors affect the characteristics of a wave? How does energy move through a wave? What force

More information

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C)

Waves Part II. non-dispersive (C g =C) Waves Part II Previously we discussed Surface Gravity Waves Deep Water Waves Shallow Water Waves C g T 2 C g h dispersive (C g =C/2) Definitions: phase speed C= /T= /k non-dispersive (C g =C) group speed

More information

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

THE RESTLESS SEA. https://pao.cnmoc.navy.mil/pao/educate/oceantalk2/indexrestless.htm

THE RESTLESS SEA. https://pao.cnmoc.navy.mil/pao/educate/oceantalk2/indexrestless.htm THE RESTLESS SEA Energy from the sun is the engine that drives the major ocean basin circulation patterns. Rising warm air, sinking cold air, and uneven heating of the Earth's surface create wind, the

More information

Exam 2 test bank with page references (Note that at the end of each question is a reference to the page where the answer can be found) Chapter 6 Water

Exam 2 test bank with page references (Note that at the end of each question is a reference to the page where the answer can be found) Chapter 6 Water Exam 2 test bank with page references (Note that at the end of each question is a reference to the page where the answer can be found) Chapter 6 Water 1. The hydrogen atoms in a water molecule tend to

More information

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

Name Class Date. Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used. Assessment Chapter Test B The Movement of Ocean Water USING KEY TERMS Use the terms from the following list to complete the sentences below. Each term may be used only once. Some terms may not be used.

More information

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE Chapter 2 Section 1 1. Most abundant salt in ocean. Sodium chloride; NaCl 2. Amount of Earth covered by Water 71% 3. Four oceans: What are they? Atlantic, Pacific, Arctic, Indian

More information

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks.

Chapter 11 Tides. A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Chapter 11 Tides A tidal bore is formed when a tide arrives to an enclosed river mouth. This is a forced wave that breaks. Tidal range can be very large Tide - rhythmic oscillation of the ocean surface

More information

Statistics for Five Oceans - (In reality there is only one world ocean but geopolitics and environmental groups leads to the naming of five oceans.

Statistics for Five Oceans - (In reality there is only one world ocean but geopolitics and environmental groups leads to the naming of five oceans. UNIT 4: OCEANS AND SHORELINES STUDY GUIDE CHAPTERS: 9 AND 16 (Revised 7/16) UNIT 4 HOMEWORK worth 10 points WEB HIT HOMEWORK: Two written paragraphs, each with three complete sentences For any Unit Web

More information

Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME

Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME Colby College Digital Commons @ Colby Undergraduate Research Symposium Student Research 2006 Variation in Beach Profile and Sediment Characteristics at Popham Beach, Phippsburg, ME Kathryn Lidington Colby

More information

Chapter 7. Waves in the Ocean

Chapter 7. Waves in the Ocean Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean Eric Gevaert/ShutterStock, Inc. Figure 07.COPCO: Waves in the Ocean Maverick s in Half Moon Bay off central California is rated as the world s top big wave surf spot. Waves

More information

Longshore sediment transport

Longshore sediment transport and Orson P. Smith, PE, Ph.D., Professor Emeritus Longshore transport Waves breaking at an angle to shore Sediment under breakers lifted by saltation Drops back to sea bed a little down drift Swash (runup)

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves

MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves MAR 110: Lecture 14 Outline Ocean Waves 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #14 Ocean Waves Figure 19.1 Do Ocean Surface Waves Present a Hazard?...a picture is worth a thousand words Tsunamis - giant shallow water waves

More information

The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap.

The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. Wave Hydrodynamics. Beach Terminology The inner shelf is a friction-dominated realm where surface and bottom boundary layers overlap. (From Nitrouer, C.A. and Wright, L.D., Rev. Geophys., 32, 85, 1994.

More information

CHAPTER 32 WAVES, BREAKERS AND SURF

CHAPTER 32 WAVES, BREAKERS AND SURF CHAPTER 32 WAVES, BREAKERS AND SURF OCEAN WAVES 3200. Introduction Ocean waves, the most easily observed phenomenon at sea, are probably the least understood by the average seaman. More than any other

More information

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?!

Ocean Waves. What is a Wave? Where re the waves?! Ocean Waves What is a Wave? A response to a generating force (in this case a pebble thrown into a pond) System returns to normal through restoring force (in this case, surface tension of the water) Ripple

More information

Oceanography 10. Tides Study Guide (7A)

Oceanography 10. Tides Study Guide (7A) Tides Study Guide (Topic 7A) page 1 Oceanography 10 Name: Tides Study Guide (7A) Note: Do not forget to include the units of your answers. 1. Use the tide chart below to determine the height and time of

More information

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics. Relationship between sediment size and beach slope

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics. Relationship between sediment size and beach slope Sandy Beach Morphodynamics Relationship between sediment size and beach slope 1 Longshore Sorting - Willard Bascom Beach Slope, Grain Size, and Wave Energy Beach at Sandwich Bay, Kent, UK near the Straights

More information

Waves & Currents. Ocean Explorer Module 3. Marine Science Lesson Enhancements based on Grade 11 & 12 curriculum in Physics, Chemistry & Biology

Waves & Currents. Ocean Explorer Module 3. Marine Science Lesson Enhancements based on Grade 11 & 12 curriculum in Physics, Chemistry & Biology Marine Science Lesson Enhancements based on Grade 11 & 12 curriculum in Physics, Chemistry & Biology Waves & Currents Ocean Explorer Module 3 Copyright 2017 Waves & Currents Page! 1 of! 14 Overview 1 -

More information

SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND

SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND SAND BOTTOM EROSION AND CHANGES OF AN ACTIVE LAYER THICKNESS IN THE SURF ZONE OF THE NORDERNEY ISLAND Kos'yan R. 1, Kunz H. 2, Podymov l. 3 1 Prof.Dr.,The Southern Branch of the P.P.Shirshov Institute

More information

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem 1 Seawalls are constructed where there is erosion, but they do not solve the erosion they often worsen it along adjacent shores. Hawaii needs erosion solutions.

More information

Waters rise and fall in tides.

Waters rise and fall in tides. Page 1 of 5 KEY ONEPT Waters rise and fall in tides. BEFORE, you learned Wind provides the energy to form waves in the ocean Ocean waves change near shore The ocean is a global body of water NOW, you will

More information

One Size Does Not Fit All (new perspectives on Sea Level Rise) by Darryl Hatheway, Sr. Coastal Scientist AECOM

One Size Does Not Fit All (new perspectives on Sea Level Rise) by Darryl Hatheway, Sr. Coastal Scientist AECOM California Coastal Analysis and Mapping Project / Open Pacific Coast Study One Size Does Not Fit All (new perspectives on Sea Level Rise) by Darryl Hatheway, Sr. Coastal Scientist AECOM Photo by: Justin

More information

Tides. Tides: longest waves. or seas. or ripples

Tides. Tides: longest waves. or seas. or ripples Tides or ripples or seas Tides: longest waves Tides Definition: The rise and fall of sea level due to the gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun and the rotation of the Earth. Why tides are important?

More information

Section 1: Waves. There are two distinct types of wave at the coastline: constructive and destructive waves.

Section 1: Waves. There are two distinct types of wave at the coastline: constructive and destructive waves. Coastal Erosion EARTH SCIENCE GEOLOGY COASTAL EROSION Section 1: Waves How do waves form? Waves are generated by the competing forces of surface friction. The wind transfers energy from air to water and

More information

g) Use the map compass to provide the general locality of the knoll on the chart.

g) Use the map compass to provide the general locality of the knoll on the chart. The horizontal scale (x axis) of your cross-section/profile is the linear map distance between point A and point B on the map (or between X and Y and Z). It conforms to the map scale. In other words, the

More information

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift.

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. In order of (timing related) contribution to present problem 1. Beach is too

More information

Oceans and Coastal Processes

Oceans and Coastal Processes C H A P T E R 11 Oceans and Coastal Processes WORDS TO KNOW barrier island longshore transport sandbar tidal range Coriolis effect neap tide spring tide tide El Niño ocean current surf zone This chapter

More information

Chapter 4: Currents, Waves, & Tides

Chapter 4: Currents, Waves, & Tides Chapter 4: Currents, Waves, & Tides Environmental Interpretation Project One of the most common interpretive strategies is use of a display to convey information. Displays can take many forms outside of

More information

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Dynamic Shoreline Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Coastal Water Movement Waves provide the energy Through breaking As waves shoal Speed decreases Height increases Wavelength

More information

TIDAL ANALYSIS AT KUALA LANGSA AND PUSONG ISLAND USING ADMIRALTY METHOD

TIDAL ANALYSIS AT KUALA LANGSA AND PUSONG ISLAND USING ADMIRALTY METHOD TIDAL ANALYSIS AT KUALA LANGSA AND PUSONG ISLAND USING ADMIRALTY METHOD ANNISA SRI SUGIARTI 1 *, MARWAN 2, ICHSAN SETIAWAN 3 1 Graduate Program of Disaster Science,Syiah Kuala University, Darussalam, *Email:

More information

Wave-dominated embayed beaches. Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney

Wave-dominated embayed beaches. Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney Wave-dominated embayed beaches Andrew D Short School of Geosciences University of Sydney Wave-dominated embayed beaches wave-dominated beaches embayed beaches morphodynamics of W-D embayed beaches circulation,

More information

Waves and Water By ReadWorks

Waves and Water By ReadWorks Waves and Water Waves and Water By ReadWorks When a big boat, like a cruise ship, goes through the ocean, it often creates waves. This happens when the large engines on the back of the cruise ship churn

More information

Tsunami generation, propagation, and devastation. John Fenton

Tsunami generation, propagation, and devastation. John Fenton Tsunami generation, propagation, and devastation John Fenton Tsunami Tsunami is a Japanese term that means "harbour wave". It is used worldwide to describe a large sea wave generated by sea-floor disturbance.

More information

Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits

Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits As waves shoal (touch bottom) in shallow water: Wave speed decreases Wavelength decreases Wave height increases Waves

More information

ROCKY SHORE HABITAT (LESSON 14)

ROCKY SHORE HABITAT (LESSON 14) The Bigelow Laboratory for Ocean Sciences in West Boothbay Harbor, Maine has included a section in their website that helps users to understand Maine s Marine Habitat. 1. Boot up your computer and type

More information

A It is halved. B It is doubled. C It is quadrupled. D It remains the same.

A It is halved. B It is doubled. C It is quadrupled. D It remains the same. WAVES UNIT REVIEW EN: CALIFORNIA STATE QUESTIONS: 1. A sound wave is produced in a metal cylinder by striking one end. Which of the following occurs as the wave travels along the cylinder? A Its amplitude

More information

Yellow Sea with contributions by John R. Apel

Yellow Sea with contributions by John R. Apel with contributions by John R. Apel Overview The is a shallow inland sea lying between northeastern China and the Korean Peninsula, with depths in its central north-south trough in excess of 60 to 80 m

More information

Name Date Class. Overview Oceans. Directions: Use the following terms to complete the concept map below. wind salts climate gases.

Name Date Class. Overview Oceans. Directions: Use the following terms to complete the concept map below. wind salts climate gases. Directed Reading for Content Mastery Overview Oceans Directions: Use the following terms to complete the concept map below. wind salts climate gases densitytides nekton Seawater contains dissolved 1. and

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves

Section 1 Types of Waves CHAPTER OUTLINE Section 1 Types of Waves Key Idea questions > What does a wave carry? > How are waves generated? > What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal wave? > How do the

More information

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C.

Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION. William C. Proceedings, 2001National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp. 274-283 COASTAL INLET BANK EROSION William C. Seabergh 1 Abstract: Much focus is placed on beach erosion on the open coast. However,

More information

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE NORTH CAROLINA ROBERT DOLAN PAUL GODFREY U. S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OFFICE OF NATURAL SCIENCE WASHINGTON, D.

More information

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES

CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT PROCESSES The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

Kelly Legault, Ph.D., P.E. USACE SAJ

Kelly Legault, Ph.D., P.E. USACE SAJ Kelly Legault, Ph.D., P.E. USACE SAJ Report Documentation Page Form Approved OMB No. 0704-0188 Public reporting burden for the collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including

More information

Chapter 9 - Ocean Circulation

Chapter 9 - Ocean Circulation Chapter 9 - Ocean Circulation The Atmosphere and Ocean Circulation Systems Are Linked The global atmospheric circulation system influences the movement of air masses in general "belts" stationary wind

More information

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description.

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. Ch 15 Earth s Oceans SECTION 15.1 An Overview of Oceans 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. (5 points) 1. German research

More information

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores

Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores Nearshore Circulation Undertow and Rip Cells Undertow - Zonation of Flow in Broken Wave Bores In the wave breaking process, the landward transfer of water, associated with bore and surface roller decay

More information

Physics Waves & Sound

Physics Waves & Sound Read Page 298 (Wave Characteristics) TQ1. How is a pulse different from a wave? Physics Waves & Sound Day 1 TQ2. What actually moves down a slinky when in the form of a wave? TQ3. What two things happen

More information

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves.

Section 1 Types of Waves. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Section 1 Types of Waves Objectives Recognize that waves transfer energy. Distinguish between mechanical waves and electromagnetic waves. Explain the relationship between particle vibration and wave motion.

More information

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING

INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING The University of the West Indies Organization of American States PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME: COASTAL INFRASTRUCTURE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE A COURSE IN COASTAL DEFENSE SYSTEMS I CHAPTER

More information

APPENDIX A. Glossary of Terms. Newport Cove, Maine, 12 September, 1958

APPENDIX A. Glossary of Terms. Newport Cove, Maine, 12 September, 1958 APPENDIX A Glossary of Terms Newport Cove, Maine, 12 September, 1958 The glossary that follows was compiled and reviewed by the staff of the Coastal Engineering Research Center. Although the terms came

More information

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts Definition: The interface between land and sea. Coastal regions cover only 10% of the inhabited land space, yet they are home to more than 60% of the world s

More information

Types of Waves. Section Section 11.1

Types of Waves. Section Section 11.1 Types of Waves Section Section 11.1 Waves A A disturbance that transmits energy through matter or space Waves Most waves move through matter called a medium. Ex. Waves traveling through water. Types of

More information

SCIENCE OF TSUNAMI HAZARDS

SCIENCE OF TSUNAMI HAZARDS SCIENCE OF TSUNAMI HAZARDS ISSN 8755-6839 Journal of Tsunami Society International Volume 29 Number 3 2010 ESTIMATION OF EXPECTED MAXIMUM WATER LEVEL DUE TO TIDE AND TSUNAMI INTERACTION ALONG THE COASTAL

More information

Questions. Breaking Waves. Introduction to Oceanography

Questions. Breaking Waves. Introduction to Oceanography Introduction to Oceanography Midterm 2: November 20 (Monday) Review session: Friday, Nov. 17 (TODAY!) 4:00-5:00pm in Franz 1260. Extra credit video screening: Monday, Nov. 20, 4:00-5:00pm in Royce 190.

More information

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN

MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR RE-DESIGN Proceedings of the 14 th International Conference on Environmental Science and Technology Rhodes, Greece, 3-5 September 2015 MODELING OF CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS ON COASTAL STRUCTURES - CONTRIBUTION TO THEIR

More information

Introduction to Oceanography

Introduction to Oceanography Introduction to Oceanography Lecture 20: Breaking Waves, Tsunami, Tides Breaking wave and surfer at Mavericks, near Half Moon Bay, California. Photo by Shalom Jacobovitz, Creative Commons Attribution-Share

More information

COASTAL UPWELLING - MONTEREY BAY CALIFORNIA (modified from The Maury Project, AMS)

COASTAL UPWELLING - MONTEREY BAY CALIFORNIA (modified from The Maury Project, AMS) Name: Date: Per: COASTAL UPWELLING - MONTEREY BAY CALIFORNIA (modified from The Maury Project, AMS) The ocean is composed of 3 distinct layers: the shallow surface mixed zone, the transition zone, and

More information

WAVES. Unit 3. Sources: Ck12.org

WAVES. Unit 3. Sources: Ck12.org WAVES Unit 3 Sources: Ck12.org BELLRINGER DAY 01 1. How do you think energy travels? 2. Are all waves the same? Explain. LONGITUDINAL WAVES Amplitude, Rarefaction, and Compression WHAT ARE WAVES? Waves

More information

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion The Holderness Coast By The British Geographer Situation The Holderness coast is located on the east coast of England and is part of the East Riding of Yorkshire;

More information

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves

CHAPTER 10 WAVES. Section 10.1 Types of Waves CHAPTER 10 WAVES Section 10.1 Types of Waves What does a wave carry? How are waves generated? What is the difference between a transverse wave and a longitudinal waves? How do the particles in ocean waves

More information

Available online at ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 )

Available online at  ScienceDirect. Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) Available online at www.sciencedirect.com ScienceDirect Procedia Engineering 116 (2015 ) 320 325 8th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2015) Department of Ocean Engineering, IIT

More information

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth.

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Oceans Chapter 10 OCEANS Main Ideas Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Lesson 3: The Ocean Shore The shore is shaped by the movement of water and sand. OCEANS SO

More information

Directed Reading A. Section: The Nature of Waves WAVE ENERGY. surface of the water does not. Skills Worksheet. 1. What is a wave?

Directed Reading A. Section: The Nature of Waves WAVE ENERGY. surface of the water does not. Skills Worksheet. 1. What is a wave? Skills Worksheet Directed Reading A Section: The Nature of Waves 1. What is a wave? WAVE ENERGY 2. A substance through which a wave can travel is a(n). 3. Explain how energy is transmitted through a medium.

More information

The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein

The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein Chapter 20: Waves The physicist's greatest tool is his wastebasket Albert Einstein 2 20.1 Waves Describe transverse and longitudinal waves. Learn the properties of waves. Calculate the speed of a wave.

More information

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves

CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND. Sec Mechanical Waves CH 17 - MECHANICAL WAVES & SOUND Sec. 17.2 - Mechanical Waves Mechanical Wave - disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. Mechanical waves require matter called a MEDIUM to travel

More information

Tsunami Preparedness in the Capital Region

Tsunami Preparedness in the Capital Region Tsunami Preparedness in the Capital Region A presentation by: the CRD Local Government Emergency Program Advisory Commission (LG EPAC) and your community emergency programs What is a tsunami? A tsunami

More information

Waves and Sound. (Chapter 25-26)

Waves and Sound. (Chapter 25-26) Waves and Sound (Chapter 25-26) I can de(ine and use the terms period, wavelength, frequency, amplitude, Hertz, crest, trough, transverse, longitudinal, and standing waves. Waves and Sound (Chapter 25-26)

More information

Dauphin Island East End Beach and Barrier Island Restoration Project. Beau Buhring South Coast Engineers

Dauphin Island East End Beach and Barrier Island Restoration Project. Beau Buhring South Coast Engineers Dauphin Island East End Beach and Barrier Island Restoration Project Beau Buhring South Coast Engineers Funding Funded with qualified outer continental shelf oil and gas revenues by the Coastal Impact

More information

Search the Sea. By Sadie Young

Search the Sea. By Sadie Young Search the Sea By Sadie Young Table of Contents In and Out..1 A Tsunami and a Hurricane...2 The Moon and the Tide.3 Amazing Ocean Animals...4 Ocean Needs Help....5 Glossary.....6 1 In and Out Have you

More information

DEVIL PHYSICS THE BADDEST CLASS ON CAMPUS AP PHYSICS

DEVIL PHYSICS THE BADDEST CLASS ON CAMPUS AP PHYSICS DEVIL PHYSICS THE BADDEST CLASS ON CAMPUS AP PHYSICS LSN 11-7: WAVE MOTION LSN 11-8: TYPES OF WAVES; LONGITUDINAL AND TRANSVERSE LSN 11-9: ENERGY TRANSPORTED BY WAVES Physics of Waves Questions From Reading

More information

Your web browser (Safari 7) is out of date. For more security, comfort and the best experience on this site: Update your browser Ignore

Your web browser (Safari 7) is out of date. For more security, comfort and the best experience on this site: Update your browser Ignore Your web browser (Safari 7) is out of date. For more security, comfort and the best experience on this site: Update your browser Ignore TIDAL BO RE For the complete encyclopedic entry with media resources,

More information

Tidal Hydrology, Hydraulics and Scour at Bridges First Edition

Tidal Hydrology, Hydraulics and Scour at Bridges First Edition Publication No. FHWA-NHI -05-077 December 2004 Hydraulic Engineering Circular No. 25 Tidal Hydrology, Hydraulics and Scour at Bridges First Edition 1. Report No. FHWA NHI HEC-25 4. Title and Subtitle

More information

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures

Chapter 11. Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Chapter 11 Beach Fill and Soft Engineering Structures Solutions to Coastal Erosion Soft Structures Hard Structures Retreat No such thing as low cost coastal protection Beach Nourishment Beach Filling Beach

More information

Physics 1C. Lecture 12C. "Fluctuat nec mergitur. = She is swayed by the waves but does not sink." --Motto of the city of Paris

Physics 1C. Lecture 12C. Fluctuat nec mergitur. = She is swayed by the waves but does not sink. --Motto of the city of Paris Physics 1C Lecture 12C "Fluctuat nec mergitur. = She is swayed by the waves but does not sink." --Motto of the city of Paris Outline Homework is intended for practice and preparation It is the basis for

More information

Low Cost Options for Shore Protection

Low Cost Options for Shore Protection PDHonline Course C223 (11 PDH) Low Cost Options for Shore Protection Instructor: Jeffrey Havelin, PE 2012 PDH Online PDH Center 5272 Meadow Estates Drive Fairfax, VA 22030-6658 Phone & Fax: 703-988-0088

More information

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment

Julebæk Strand. Effect full beach nourishment Julebæk Strand Effect full beach nourishment Aim of Study This study is a part of the COADAPT funding and the aim of the study is to analyze the effect of beach nourishment. In order to investigate the

More information

Name Date L.O: SWBAT explain what breezes, planetary winds, ocean currents & monsoons are.

Name Date L.O: SWBAT explain what breezes, planetary winds, ocean currents & monsoons are. Name Date L.O: SWBAT explain what breezes, planetary winds, ocean currents & monsoons are. 1. A cool breeze is blowing toward the land from the ocean on a warm, cloudless summer day. This condition is

More information

Wave Propagation and Shoaling

Wave Propagation and Shoaling Wave Propagation and Shoaling Focus on movement and natural alteration of the characteristics of waves as they travel from the source region toward shore Waves moving from deep to intermediate/shallow

More information

17.1: Mechanical Waves

17.1: Mechanical Waves New Standard SPS9: Students will investigate the properties of waves. a. Recognize that all waves transfer energy. b. Relate frequency and wavelength to the energy of different types of electromagnetic

More information

Vocabulary. Energy Wave Amplitude Conduction Convection Radiation Color spectrum Wavelength Potential energy

Vocabulary. Energy Wave Amplitude Conduction Convection Radiation Color spectrum Wavelength Potential energy Vocabulary Energy Wave Amplitude Conduction Convection Radiation Color spectrum Wavelength Potential energy Kinetic energy Light energy Chemical energy Mechanical energy What is Energy? Energy is defined

More information

Feature Articles. Guten Tag. Niigata Earthquake 1964: Soil Liquefaction page 3. The Bay of Fundy Resonance page 5. Lake Geneva Seiche page 8

Feature Articles. Guten Tag. Niigata Earthquake 1964: Soil Liquefaction page 3. The Bay of Fundy Resonance page 5. Lake Geneva Seiche page 8 Acoustics Shock Vibration Signal Processing February 2002 Newsletter Guten Tag Feature Articles The theme of this month s newsletter is the oscillations of the Earth and its waterways. The first article

More information

FEMA West Coast Sea Level Rise Pilot Study

FEMA West Coast Sea Level Rise Pilot Study FEMA West Coast Sea Level Rise Pilot Study Ed Curtis, P.E., CFM FEMA Region IX June 4, 2014 Presentation Objectives Present the goals of the FEMA West Coast Sea Level Rise Pilot Study Review the SLR Pilot

More information

ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND

ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL TESTS AND THE THEORY BEHIND 006, Proceedings of the First International Conference on the Application of Physical Modelling to Port and Coastal Protection. ISBN xxx-xxxx-xx-x ARTIFICIAL SURFING REEFS: THE PREPARATION OF PHYSICAL

More information

Estuaries: Life on the Interface

Estuaries: Life on the Interface Material adapted from: Estuaries: Interface between sea and land & Sea Margin Diversity, The Water Sourcebook Grades 9-12, EPA http://www.epa.gov/safewater/kids/wsb/ Introduction: Some of the most dynamic

More information

Legal, scientific and engineering aspects of Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) in Poland

Legal, scientific and engineering aspects of Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) in Poland Gdańsk, March 21 st 2013 Legal, scientific and engineering aspects of Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) in Poland Rafał Ostrowski Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences

More information