There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular
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1 Fig , p. 253
2 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which results in either Erosion or Deposition
3 High energy Erosion Fig. 11-4, p. 249
4 Low energy Deposition
5 Types of Coastlines
6 Sydney Harbor Australia A drowned river system Fig. 11-CO, p. 244
7 A fjord, Alaska Fig. 11-8, p. 251
8 Glacially eroded beach in Maine
9 An actively growing coastline, Hawaii Fig. 11-9, p. 251
10 A collapsed caldera Hawaii Fig , p. 252
11 A mangrove swamp Fig , p. 261
12 A Birdfoot Delta Fig a, p. 260
13 Ganges- Brahmaputra Delta Fig b, p. 260
14 Great Barrier Reef Australia Fig , p. 261
15 Coral reef coastline in Florida
16 Transitional: Reef & Lagoon
17 In 1990, 50% of the U.S. population lived within 75 km of a coast. By 2010, 75% of the U.S. population will live within 75 km of a coast.
18 What about changes in sea level? glacial/interglacial timescale Increase of ~120 meters
19
20 Fig. 11-2b, p. 247
21 Florida coast during the last glacial maximum Fig. 11-3a, p. 248
22 Florida coast after global warming Fig. 11-3b, p. 248
23 Tectonic uplift Marine Terraces
24 Marine Terraces California Fig , p. 265
25 Waves Fig. 9-CO, p. 198
26 Motion of water in a wave is circular Motion of energy of he wave is forward Fig. 9-1, p. 200
27 Fig. 9-2, p. 201
28
29 Waves are defined by their wavelength (L) Waves have are produced by a disturbing force and dissipated by a restoring force Table 9-1, p. 202
30 Waves may also be classified by defined by their frequency (f) Fig. 9-4, p. 202
31 Bigger waves move faster and tend to group together (dispersion) You will see the big waves from a storm first Fig. 9-8, p. 206
32 Biggest waves seen in the West Wind Drift Waves as tall as 36 ft are common Fig. 9-10, p. 207
33 Coastal Erosion Fig. 11-4, p. 249
34 Coastal Erosion Erosion is caused by the abrasive action of moving sand & gravel Tectonics, rock type & land surface processes contribute to shaping a coast Hydraulic pressure of breaking waves is a large contributor to mechanical erosion
35 Coastal Erosion Sea caves, arches, and stacks develop as refracted waves attack the coast Refracted waves focus energy on headland sides Zones of bedrock weakness allow preferential erosion Caves form, evolve into arches and stacks
36 Coastal Erosion Sea cliffs & wave-cut platforms Sea cliffs are produced by undercutting Cliff retreats over time as cliff face collapses Waves erode & remove debris Wave-cut platforms develop Flat surface commonly visible at low tide Widening platform protects cliff Beaches may develop on wide platforms
37 Fig. 11-5a, p. 250
38
39
40 Fig. 11-5b, p. 250
41 Fig. 11-5c, p. 250
42 Fig. 11-5d, p. 250
43
44 Wave Refraction Waves are bent as a portion slows Waves drag on the bottom & slow Shoreline is uneven, some deeper areas Wave is bent, becomes parallel to shore Wave energy is: concentrated on headlands dissipated in bays
45 Selective erosion of the headlands tends to straighten a coast
46 Highest point of the beach where waves reach at high tide Fig , p. 253
47 Backshore Windblown dunes, some vegetation Fig , p. 253
48 Foreshore Active zone of the beach Fig , p. 253
49 Longshore troughs and bars Below low tide; Formed by waves, backwash and longshore currents Fig , p. 253
50 Beaches are temporary and can change with the seasons Summertime beach Fig a, p. 254
51 Wintertime beach Fig b, p. 254
52 Calm conditions in the Spring and Summer build up sand on the beach Spring Summer Wintertime storms remove sand from the beach and deposit offshore Winter Fig c, p. 254
53 Coastal Deposition Shoreline systems receive sediment from a variety of sources
54 Coastal Deposition Shoreline systems receive sediment from a variety of sources Much is land derived, river transported
55 Coastal Deposition Shoreline systems receive sediment from a variety of sources Much is land derived, river transported Moved by longshore drift
56 Coastal Deposition Shoreline systems receive sediment from a variety of sources Much is land derived, river transported Moved by longshore drift Deposited in low energy areas
57 Coastal Deposition Shoreline systems receive sediment from a variety of sources Much is land derived, river transported Moved by longshore drift Deposited in low energy areas Shell and coral debris is common in tropical regions
58 Coastal Deposition Beaches Shore built of unconsolidated sediments, usually sand sized particles Shape & size of beach dependent on wave energy Beach slope is often a function of particle size, coarser = steeper beach face
59 Longshore Drift One of the most important shoreline processes Occurs when waves hit the shore at angles other than 90 o Breakers push material up the beach at an angle Backwash pulls material down perpendicular to shore
60 Geometry of longshore drift
61 Longshore Drift Repetition of this process moves material parallel to beach face Beach drift & longshore currents are generated creating longshore drift Large volumes of sand may move Rip currents may develop if large volumes of water accumulate onshore
62 Geometry of longshore drift
63 Fig , p. 258
64 Fig , p. 255
65 Fig a, p. 256
66 Fig b, p. 256
67 Fig , p. 268
68 Fig. 4-11, p. 86
69 Coastal Deposition Spits Form by longshore drift of sediment Extend across mouth of bays & estuaries Tombolos Outward built beach connecting to an island Island refracts waves away from beach
70 Longshore drift creates spits
71 Spits can create more beach
72 Coastal Deposition Barrier islands Offshore islands parallel to shoreline Common on gently sloping coasts Separated from mainland by a lagoon Islands may migrate by Longshore drift parallel to coast Toward/away from the coast by sea level change
73 Barrier Islands and Bay Mouth Bars Fig , p. 257
74 Barrier islands Bay Mouth Bars Fig , p. 257
75 Transitional: Barrier Islands
76 Barrier islands
77 Barrier Islands Cape Hatteras Fig , p. 258
78 Cape Hatteras and the Chesapeake Bay Fig. 11-7, p. 251
79 Barrier Islands change rapidly Fig , p. 258
80 Barrier Islands
81 Barrier Islands
82 Barrier Islands Ocean City, MD Fig c, p. 259
83 Fig , p. 259
84 Fig , p. 267
85 Fig , p. 268
86 Estuaries Fig , p. 262
87 Fig. 9-24, p. 218
88 Fig. 9-25, p. 219
89 Fig. 9-26, p. 220
90 Fig. 9-27, p. 221
91 Fig. 9-29b, p. 222
92 Fig. 9-29c, p. 222
93 IG4e_18_23 The Effect of the Wind on Land
94 IG4e_18_25
95 IG4e_18_26a
96
97 IG4e_18_22
98 Aeolian River Crossbedding in rivers and deserts (aeolian)
99 Cross Beds Zion National Park, UT
100
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