Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits

Size: px
Start display at page:

Download "Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits"

Transcription

1 Breaking Waves Provide the Energy that Changes the Shape and Texture of Beach Deposits As waves shoal (touch bottom) in shallow water: Wave speed decreases Wavelength decreases Wave height increases Waves refract Refraction is the bending of waves toward shallower water so that they break almost parallel to the shore. Waves become unstable and break in very shallow water. Waves generate: Longshore currents that flow parallel to the beach Rip currents that flow perpendicular to the beach

2 Longshore Currents Transport sand grains (and swimmers) parallel to the shore Figure 11.01a: Aerial view of oblique wave approach. Douglas Faulkner/Science Source. Figure 11.01b: waves that approach a beach at an angle produce a longshore drift of sand. Figure 11.01c: Where waves approach a shoreline at an angle, a shore-parallel current called a longshore current is generated in the surf zone. Figure 11.01d: Waves that are parallel to the beach can generate longshore currents, provided wave height varies along the waves crest.

3 Longshore Currents (Continued) Angle of wave approach is the acute angle (less than 90 ) between the wave crest and the beach. The direction of longshore current varies with the direction of wave approach. Longshore currents can also be generated by wave set-up, a process that creates (uneven) piles of water in the surf zone. When wave crests are parallel to shore, longshore currents can still develop due to wave set up Where two opposing longshore currents converge, a swift, narrow, seaward-flowing rip current forms.

4 Beaches The beach is the part of the land that touches the sea. It can be divided into the: Offshore Nearshore From breaker through surf, to swash zone. Breaker zone (waves begin to break) Surf zone (most wave energy expended) Swash zone (where beach is covered then uncovered by wave surge) Backshore The position of the beach zones varies with the tides, storms, lunar cycle, and the seasons (depending on climate zone!). The boundaries advance landward under high energy or elevated sea surface (tide, storm) and retreat seaward with low energy/low sea surface. Seasonal increases in wave energy also cause advance and retreat of shoreline zones.

5 The Coastal Zone The berm, a prominent wave-deposited feature of most beaches, is an accumulation of sand having a flat top surface and a relatively steep seaward slope. The offshore zone is the open water that lies seaward of the nearshore zone The backshore zone is the land that adjoins the nearshore zone.

6 Beach Sediments Are Moved by Currents and Breaking Waves A beach profile is a cross section of the beach along a line that is perpendicular to the shoreline. A swell profile is concave upward with a wide, broad berm (relatively flat backshore) and steep intertidal beach face. A storm profile displays erosion of the berm and a broad flat intertidal beach face, often with a submarine bar. Figure 11.03a: A swell profile (broad berm, steep beach face, concave profile) is compared with a storm profile (narrow beach, gentle beach face, longshore bars). Figure 11.03c: Following a storm, the eroded beach tends to undergo accretion.

7 Light wave activity Wide, sandy berm Steep beach face Swash dominates Longshore bars not present Generally milder storms Summertime Beach

8 Heavy wave activity Backwash dominates Sediment moved away from shore Narrower beach Flattened beach face Longshore bars are present Stormy weather Wintertime Beach

9 The sand budget is the balance between sediment added to and sediment eroded from the beach. (b) In this example of a hypothetical sand budget, sand inputs are less than sand outputs. The result is acute erosion of the beach at an estimated rate of 10,000 m3/yr. Sand budgets. (a) The state of a beach can be assessed by considering the credits (inputs) and debits (outputs) of sand to a stretch of shoreline. Beach accretion (buildup) results when sand inputs exceed outputs. Erosion results when sand outputs are greater than sand inputs. A balance between inputs and outputs produces no change in the volume of beach sand, a condition called steady state.

10 Coastal Cells (e.g. Southern California) The formation of a coastal cell: Sand is input from river. Longshore drift carries the sand down the shoreline. Sand drifts into the head of a submarine canyon. It is swept down the canyon into the deep-sea basin.

11 Beaches and Dunes Sand dunes are formed by winds blowing sand landward from the dry part of the beach. Well-developed dunes typically have a sinusoidal profile (like waves ) The primary dune is at the landward edge of the beach Possible secondary dunes are located farther inland Figure 11.06: Simple plants (grasses and shrubs) dominate the primary dune ridge; complex tall shrubs and trees dominate the secondary dune ridge and back dune.

12 Sand Dunes Vegetation on the dunes: Traps windblown sand on their downwind side Promotes dune growth and stability Blowouts are wind-scoured breaks in the dune or depressions in the dune ridge. They are common if vegetation is destroyed Dunes are best developed if: Sand is abundant Onshore winds are moderately strong and persistent The tidal range is large The beach is wide and gently sloping

13 Sand Dunes (Continued) Sand saltates (bounces) up the windward side of the dune. It collects in the wind shadow at the top. When the accumulation of sand becomes oversteepened, it slides down the leeward face of the dune. The result is dune migration. Figure 11.08: Wind causes sand grains to saltate up the dune s gentle windward slope.

14 Sand Dunes (Continued) Wave erosion of dunes: Supplies sand to the offshore Creates a steep scarp at the base of the dune Dunes act as a natural barrier and prevent or reduce inland flooding. Rooted plants that grow on dunes stabilize them and reduce rates of dune erosion. Human activity that damages vegetation leads to dune destruction by blowouts and washover by storm waves. Figure 11.09: A steep scarp has been cut into a large dune, exposing its internal cross-bedded structure. Timcaviness/Dreamstime.com Figure 11.10: Wooden foot ramps are used to direct foot traffic through dunes in order to minimize damage to grasses and shrubs. Courtesy of Sapelo Island National Estuarine Research Reserve/NOAA

15 Barrier Islands Composed of thick sediment deposits that parallel the coast. They form where: Sand supply is abundant The offshore bottom slopes gently seaward The islands are separated from the mainland by shallow bodies of water (estuaries and lagoons), which are connected to the ocean through tidal inlets. A series of distinct environments develop across the island parallel to the beach, including the: Nearshore zone Dune field Back-island flats Salt marshes

16 Barrier Islands (Continued) Landward migration Figure 11.11b: Several distinct land types comprise a barrier-island system. Adapted from Godfrey, P. J. Oceanus 19, (1976):

17 Origin of Barrier Islands Formed in three ways, including: Sand ridges isolated by rising sea level Sand spits breached during a storm Vertical growth and emergence of longshore sand bars As sea level rises, barrier islands migrate landward. Washover transports sediments from the seaward side of the island to its landward side.

18 Barrier Islands Are Separated from One Another by Tidal Inlets These openings allow the exchange of seawater between the ocean and smaller bodies of water. Strong, alternating tidal current disrupt the longshore movement of sediment and store it in tidal deltas. If the longshore transport of sediment along a barrier island is great, a sand spit can form and grow into the downdrift inlet, causing it to constrict or shift its location.

19 Water Levels Storm surge is the high water created by: The accumulation of wind-blown water against the shore The uplift of the water surface generated by the low atmospheric pressure of the storm. The elevated water level allows waves to reach much farther inland than usual. Especially if the storm surge coincides with a high tide. Waves more easily breach the island and wash over lower areas. New tidal channels may form during a storm surge.

20 A Sea Cliff Is an Abrupt Rise of the Land from Sea Level A sea cliff is most vulnerable to erosion at its base. This is because waves that slam against the cliff compress air inside cracks, which expands violently. Also, sediment is hurled against the cliff by the waves. Sea water dissolves some rock types. Evaporated seawater leaves behind salt, which can chemically or physically break rocks apart.

21 Sea Cliffs When sufficient rock at the base of the cliff has been undercut, the upper part of the cliff eventually collapses. Collapsed material protects the base of the sea cliff from additional erosion until it is destroyed wave energy and removed by longhsore currents. Rate at which the cliff recedes is dependent upon: The composition and durability of cliff material Weaknesses in the cliff material Joints Fractures Faults, etc. The amount of precipitation The steepness of the cliff Wave energy, height, and direction

22 A Delta Is an Accumulation of Sediment Deposited at the Mouth of a River as it Flows into a Standing Body of Water Deltas were named after the Greek letter delta Δ. The three major areas of a delta are: Delta plain (exposed on land) Delta front (slopes down under water toward the seafloor) Prodelta (flat area at the base of the delta front, far offshore)

23 Deltas (Continued) As sediment accumulates, the delta expands seaward: Foreset beds bury bottomset beds Topset beds cover foreset beds Shape of the delta can be altered by: Tides Waves River deposition. Reduction in the supply of sediment to a delta results in: Delta erosion Retreat of the shoreline

24 Coastal Environment Determines Delta Shape Figure 11.17b: Depending on the relative effects of river, waves, and tides, deltas assume a variety of shapes. (Inset) Courtesy of NASA

25 Stabilizing the Coastline Humans try to stabilize the coastline in two ways: By interfering with longshore sand transport By redirecting wave energy to prevent erosion Preventing sand drift involves the construction of jetties and groins. Redirecting wave energy requires the construction of breakwaters and seawalls. (harbor or shoreline protection) Beach nourishment with sand is expensive and is a temporary solution to an erosion problem. An increase in sea level from global warming will cause more land to be flooded and threaten coastal buildings and infrastructure.

26 Coastal Engineering Structures Figure 11.18a: Groin Figure 11.18b: Jetties Figure 11.18c: Breakwater Figure 11.18d: Seawall

27 Oceans and the Planet Oceans are critical to the dynamic processes and the state of Earth s climate over short and extremely long time scales. Ocean water stores and redistributes immense quantities of heat. Climatic warming may occur because of the increased buildup of CO 2 in the atmosphere. Molecules of CO 2 permit sunlight to pass through the air and heat the Earth s surface, but absorb and trap heat that is radiated from the ground and ocean.

28 Oceans and the Planet (Continued) The amount of CO 2 in the atmosphere has increased 44% over the last 150 years. The oceans absorb 30% to 50% of CO 2 emissions created by burning fossil fuels. Figure 16.01: The 40-year record of CO 2 concentrations in the atmosphere measured at Mauna Loa Observatory in Hawaii. Adapted from Rhode, R. A. Atmospheric Carbon Dioxide, Global Warming Art, October 1, 2008,

29 Global Warming Can Cause Polar Ice Caps to Melt, Resulting in Sea Level Rise Figure 16.02a: The recent global rise of sea level. Data from V. Gornits, S. Lebede, and J. Hausen, Science 215 (1982):

30 Climate Change Global and regional wind and precipitation patterns can (and do) change. Effects of climate change will vary geographically: Some regions will experience longer growing seasons and more rainfall. Others will become hotter and drier.

31 Climate Change (Continued) Climate warming will affect oceans and ocean life in diverse and complex ways. Every aspect of ocean chemistry, circulation, heat content. Every facet of ecological, environmental, and biological activity. All will be impacted by changes in temperature and ph. Increased CO 2 changes both temperature and ph of the oceans. Figure 16.04: This diagram shows some direct (solid arrows), indirect (dashed arrows), and possible (dotted arrows) consequences of increasing atmospheric CO 2. Adapted from Kennedy, V.S., et al. Coastal and marine ecosystems and global climate change: Potential effects on U.S. resources, report of the Pew Center on Global Climate Change, Arlington, VA 2003.

32 Coastal Ecosystems Current estimates predict that sea level will rise 10 to 90 cm by the year Some inhabited islands and coastal areas will be submerged by the end of this century. Coastal delta plains are particularly vulnerable to seawater incursion. They are subsiding under a heavy sediment load, which accelerates the relative rise of sea level. Figure 16.07: Estimates of the contribution of the melting of ice sheets and mountain glaciers to the expected rise of sea level in the twenty-first century. Adapted from Haslett, S. K. Coastal Systems. Routledge, 2003.

33 Coastal Ecosystems (Continued) Storm surges are expected to be higher than usual. They will result in more flooding, erosion, and damage to coastal property. Intrusion of seawater into groundwater aquifers will contaminate the freshwater supplies of coastal communities. Anthropogenic structures interfere with ecosystems ability to adapt to environmental change. They prevent coastal ecosystems from shifting landward as sea level rises. Many salt marsh plants (Spartina sp, mangroves) rot after prolonged exposure to seawater.

34 Salt Marshes and Mangrove Swamps Provide natural protection from storm surges and coastal flooding. Serve as critical nurseries and refuges for many species of shellfish and finfish. Their demise: Opens the shoreline to greater erosion and damage Will have major negative impact on commercial fisheries

35 Possible Ways to Alleviate the Effects of Sea-level Rise Include Elevating buildings and infrastructure (accomodation) Engineering of coastal areas to offset/prevent erosion (protection) Planned relocation of coastal buildings and other infrastructure (relocation) Prohibiting future coastal development.(relocation)

36 Water Temperature Influences behavior and mortality of marine organisms. Changes in water temperature can affect: Predator/prey relations Ecological niches Resource allocations Species distribution Timing of reproduction/rate of development These alterations can be detrimental to the survival of populations and species.

37 Coastal Water Aquaculture in coastal areas is a rapidly increasing source of human food. Rising temperatures could mean that microbial infections of aquacultured organisms increase. Warmer coastal water may foster more frequent and larger algal blooms, such as red tides. This can devastate shellfish fisheries and cause human illness and even death.

38 Seawater The temperature and salinity of seawater cause dense water masses to sink. This helps drive a global conveyor belt of water movement. Climate change will influence deep-water flow. Atmospheric effects control seawater density. Major change in the redistribution of flow patterns, oxygen, and nutrients could result from increasing ocean temperatures

39 Salinity Melting of ice sheets decreases ocean salinity. Decreased salinity is expected to slow down the rate of downwelling in the North Atlantic. If prolonged, may shut it down entirely. Shutdown of circulation would cut off the supply of oxygen-rich water to the deep sea. This would cause hypoxia and anoxia in the deep ocean, inducing mass extinctions.

40 Polar Amplification Figure 16.02B: (b) Surface ocean temperature change for January 2010 relative to the mean temperature for The largest positive temperature anomaly occurs in the Arctic, another in the Antarctic.

41 Arctic Sea Ice Is Melting at an Alarming Rate In terms of total cover In terms of seasonal cover Figure 16.13a: Inside of a decade ( ), the area of the ice sheet that is melting rapidly has expanded markedly. Adapted from King, M. D., et al. Our Changing Planet: The View from Space. Cambridge University Press, Figure 16.13b: The floating terminus of a Greenland glacier called Jakobshavn Isbrae has retreated almost 50 kilometers since Figure 16.14a: This satellite photo shows the extent of melting of the sea-ice cover of the Arctic Ocean during the summer season. Courtesy of Josefino Comiso and NAA/Goddard Space Flight Center Scientific Visualization Studio. The sea-ice cover of the Arctic Ocean has been shrinking alarmingly during the past decades.

42 Sea Ice Melting sea ice affects mammals adapted to icecovered water. Arctic seals require extensive areas of ice for breeding and resting. These seals are essential prey for walruses and polar bears. Sea ice also affects plankton productivity, which is the basis of the food web. Spring phytoplankton bloom dependent on ice edge. Cycles of plankton and fish production will change, new food webs will emerge in ice free Arctic.

43 Sea Ice (Continued) The absence of sea ice during summer will allow open water to absorb more heat. This will accelerate seawater temperature increase. Increased water temperature: Delays onset of winter freezing Promotes an earlier spring breakup of sea-ice cover Figure 16.15a: Open water absorbs much more sunlight than ice-covered water. Figure 16.15b: Examples of positive feedback loops involving incident solar radiation and seaice expansion and contraction. Adapted from King, M. D., et al. Our Changing Planet: The View from Space. Cambridge University Press, 2007.

44 As Waters Warm: Warm-water species expand, displace coldwater species. Phytoplankton populations decrease. Marine food webs must readjust to these changes, sometimes causing collapse of populations.

45 CO 2 As CO 2 builds up in the lower atmosphere, more of it diffuses into the ocean. CO 2 complexes with water molecules to form carbonic acid (H 2 CO 3 ). This increases the acidity of the seawater. Reduces CO 3 2- omplications for organisms that secrete calcium carbonate shells (CaCO3) Figure 16.17: The relative levels of various carbonate ion species such as carbonate (CO 2 3 ) and bicarbonate (HCO 3 ) vary with the ph of the water. Adapted from Buddemeier, R. W., Kleypas, J. A., and Aronson, R. B. Coral Reefs and Global Climate Change: Potential Contributions of Climate Change to Stresses on Coral Reef Ecosystems. Report of the Pew Center on Global Climate Change, 2004.

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation

Dynamic Shoreline. Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Dynamic Shoreline Why do we care? Loss of land Damage to structures Recreation Coastal Water Movement Waves provide the energy Through breaking As waves shoal Speed decreases Height increases Wavelength

More information

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH

LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Name: LAB: WHERE S THE BEACH Introduction When you build a sandcastle on the beach, you don't expect it to last forever. You spread out your towel to sunbathe, but you know you can't stay in the same spot

More information

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes.

Overview. Beach Features. Coastal Regions. Other Beach Profile Features. CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes. Overview CHAPTER 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Coastal regions constantly change. The beach is a dominant coastal feature. Wave activity continually modifies the beach and coastal areas.

More information

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College

Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College Shorelines Earth - Chapter 20 Stan Hatfield Southwestern Illinois College The Shoreline A Dynamic Interface The shoreline is a dynamic interface (common boundary) among air, land, and the ocean. The shoreline

More information

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans

Chapter 10 Lecture Outline. The Restless Oceans Chapter 10 Lecture Outline The Restless Oceans Focus Question 10.1 How does the Coriolis effect influence ocean currents? The Ocean s Surface Circulation Ocean currents Masses of water that flow from one

More information

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall

Reading Material. Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall Reading Material Inshore oceanography, Anikouchine and Sternberg The World Ocean, Prentice-Hall BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view Terminology for Coastal

More information

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution

Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution Fifty percent of the population of the industrialized world lives within 100 km of a coast. Coastal management has lagged behind the growth in population leading to problems with pollution and natural

More information

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition

Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition Chapter Chapter 1 10 Clickers Lecture Essentials of Oceanography Eleventh Edition The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes Alan P. Trujillo Harold V. Thurman Chapter Overview Coastal regions have distinct

More information

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18

Oceans and Coasts. Chapter 18 Oceans and Coasts Chapter 18 Exploring the oceans The ocean floor Sediments thicken and the age of the seafloor increases from ridge to shore The continental shelf off the northeast United States Constituent

More information

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens

Lecture Outlines PowerPoint. Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens Lecture Outlines PowerPoint Chapter 15 Earth Science, 12e Tarbuck/Lutgens 2009 Pearson Prentice Hall This work is protected by United States copyright laws and is provided solely for the use of instructors

More information

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary.

Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves, Beaches, and Coasts Shore - place where ocean meets land Coast - refers to the larger zone affected by the processes that occur at this boundary. Waves: energy moving through water The height of

More information

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean

Chapter. The Dynamic Ocean Chapter The Dynamic Ocean An ocean current is the mass of ocean water that flows from one place to another. 16.1 The Composition of Seawater Surface Circulation Surface Currents Surface currents are movements

More information

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS

BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS BEACH PROCESSES AND COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS COASTAL FEATURES Cross section Map view TOPICS: Terminology Waves Beach Morphology Barriers Coastal Migration Tides Tidal Flats and Marshes Sediment Budgets Human

More information

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular

There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular Fig. 11-11, p. 253 There are many different kinds of beaches which are generally characterized by the dominance of waves, tides, rivers and currents, and in particular differ by the amount of energy, which

More information

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts

Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Chapter - Oceans and Coasts Discussion: What do oceans contribute to the environment of Earth? How do Earth s major systems relate to the oceans? Oceans and Coasts Oceans are important - Thermal regulation

More information

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1

General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 General Coastal Notes + Landforms! 1 Types of Coastlines: Type Description Primary Coast which is essentially in the same condition when sea level stabilized Coastline after the last ice age, younger.

More information

Anatomy of Coastal Regions

Anatomy of Coastal Regions The Coast I. BEACH ANATOMY Anatomy of Coastal Regions Terms for different parts of beaches and coastal regions Are all about ENERGY- ie, where the ocean s energy Mostly through tides and waves, and shape

More information

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc.

Chapter 20 Lecture. Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology. Eleventh Edition. Shorelines. Tarbuck and Lutgens Pearson Education, Inc. Chapter 20 Lecture Earth: An Introduction to Physical Geology Eleventh Edition Shorelines Tarbuck and Lutgens The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The Coastal Zone The shoreline is constantly modified by

More information

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action

Coasts. 1. Coastal Processes. 1.1 Coastal erosion. 1.2 Sediment transport. Coastal Processes and Landforms. i. Hydraulic action Coasts Coastal Processes and Landforms 1. Coastal Processes 1.1 Coastal erosion i. Hydraulic action When waves strike against a rock surface, the waves trap air in the rock joints. This air is compressed

More information

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides)

Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) Chapter 12: Coasts (after a brief review of Tides) 1 Questions from previous classes: What happens when a wave meets a current? wave = people walking current = bus If wave goes with the current, the wave

More information

Deep-water orbital waves

Deep-water orbital waves What happens when waves approach shore? Deep-water orbital waves Fig. 9.16, p. 211 Wave motion is influenced by water depth and shape of the shoreline wave buildup zone surf zone beach Wave base deepwater

More information

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff

Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Tides & Beaches Nearshore Sediment Transport What influences the loss of sediment on Beaches? - Waves - Winds - Tidal Currents - River discharge - Runoff Oceans Ocean Topography Physical Structure of the

More information

Marginal Marine Environments

Marginal Marine Environments Marginal Marine Environments Delta: discrete shoreline protuberances formed where rivers enter oceans, semi-enclosed seas, lakes or lagoons and supply sediment more rapidly than it can be redistributed

More information

Chesil Beach, Dorset UK High energy, shingle coastline. Brighton Beach, Sussex UK Pebble beach

Chesil Beach, Dorset UK High energy, shingle coastline. Brighton Beach, Sussex UK Pebble beach Beaches: Depositional landform Extends from the highest high tide to the lowest low tide. Very important temporary store in coastal system. Accretion: sediment returning to the visible portion of a beach

More information

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island.

Figure 1. Schematic illustration of the major environments on Mustang Island. STOP #1: PACKERY CHANNEL BEACH TO BAY We will start this field guide near the north jetty of Packery Channel and hike across the island to Corpus Christi Bay (fig. 1). The island emerges from the Gulf

More information

The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline

The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline Name The Case of the Disappearing Shoreline Humans change the earth's climate in many ways. One change is the increase of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. As we burn more fossil fuels, we release more

More information

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review

Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Name: Class: Date: Earth Science Chapter 16 Section 3 Review Multiple Choice Identify the choice that best completes the statement or answers the question. 1. The movement of water that parallels the shore

More information

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12

COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS. 454 lecture 12 COASTAL ENVIRONMENTS Repeated movement of sediment & water constructs a beach profile reflecting the balance between average daily or seasonal wave forces and resistance of landmass to wave action Coasts

More information

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form

3/9/2013. Build house on cliff for a view of the ocean - be one with said view Pearson Education, Inc. Shorelines: summary in haiku form Introduction to Environmental Geology, 5e Edward A. Keller Shorelines: summary in haiku form Chapter 11 Coastal Processes Lecture Presentation prepared by X. Mara Chen, Salisbury University Build house

More information

Marine Ecosystems. Aquatic Ecosystems Section 2

Marine Ecosystems. Aquatic Ecosystems Section 2 Marine Ecosystems Marine ecosystems are located mainly in coastal areas and in the open ocean. Organisms that live in coastal areas adapt to changes in water level and salinity. Organisms that live in

More information

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents

The Movement of Ocean Water. Currents The Movement of Ocean Water Currents Ocean Current movement of ocean water that follows a regular pattern influenced by: weather Earth s rotation position of continents Surface current horizontal movement

More information

Coastal Change and Conflict

Coastal Change and Conflict Coastal Change and Conflict Outline of the Topic Contrasting Coasts why do all coasts not look the same? Geology of the coast the impact rock structure has on the coastline Waves Constructive and destructive

More information

COASTAL SYSTEMS WAVE ENERGY

COASTAL SYSTEMS WAVE ENERGY WAVE ENERGY The energy of a wave determines its ability to erode and transport material on the coast Wave energy depends on the fetch, the distance the wind has blown the wave Wind strength and wind duration

More information

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview

4/20/17. #31 - Coastal Erosion. Coastal Erosion - Overview Writing Assignment Due Monday by 11:59 pm #31 - Coastal Erosion Beach front property! Great View! Buy now at a great price! See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in

More information

* Appalachian Mountains -the mountain range in the Eastern U.S. which terminates in north-central Alabama

* Appalachian Mountains -the mountain range in the Eastern U.S. which terminates in north-central Alabama MR. SAND TEACHER'S MANUAL INTRODUCTION: Although Mr. Sand is a cartoon presentation that is attractive to children (of all ages), the material is technically accurate and quite significant to our understanding

More information

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes

page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes page - Laboratory Exercise #5 Shoreline Processes Section A Shoreline Processes: Overview of Waves The ocean s surface is influenced by three types of motion (waves, tides and surface currents). Shorelines

More information

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview

4/20/17. #30 - Coastlines - General Principles Coastlines - Overview Writing Assignment Due one week from today by 11:59 pm See main class web pages for detailed instructions Essays will be submitted in Illinois Compass (instructions later) Pick one: Earthquakes, tsunamis,

More information

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS

Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Environmental Geology Chapter 11 COASTAL PROCESSES and RELATED HAZARDS Introduction >50% of world population concentrated in the coastal zones ~75% of U.S. population living in coastal states Coastal hazard

More information

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014

OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 B E A C H E S. M A R I N A S. D E S I G N. C O N S T R U C T I O N. OECS Regional Engineering Workshop September 29 October 3, 2014 Coastal Erosion and Sea Defense: Introduction to Coastal Dynamics David

More information

Today: Coastal Issues and Estuaries

Today: Coastal Issues and Estuaries Today: Coastal Issues and Estuaries Coastal issues Human effect on coastlines What is an estuary Why are they so important? Circulation of water in estuary Environmental issues Coastal Issues: Problem

More information

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description.

170 points. 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. Ch 15 Earth s Oceans SECTION 15.1 An Overview of Oceans 38 points In your textbook, read about modern oceanography. For each item write the word that meets the description. (5 points) 1. German research

More information

Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface Cape Cod and Point Reyes Hurricane Sandy

Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface Cape Cod and Point Reyes Hurricane Sandy 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Shorelines Earth Chapter 20 Chapter 20 Shorelines The Shoreline: A Dynamic Interface The interface is the common boundary where different parts of a system interact. The Coastal

More information

Ocean Motion Notes. Chapter 13 & 14

Ocean Motion Notes. Chapter 13 & 14 Ocean Motion Notes Chapter 13 & 14 What is a Wave? Wave: movement of energy through a body of water How are Waves Caused? Caused mostly by wind Wind blowing on the water transmits energy to the water Size

More information

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem

Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem Chronic coastal erosion is a statewide problem 1 Seawalls are constructed where there is erosion, but they do not solve the erosion they often worsen it along adjacent shores. Hawaii needs erosion solutions.

More information

Coastal Processes and Landforms

Coastal Processes and Landforms Coastal Processes and Landforms These icons indicate that teacher s notes or useful web addresses are available in the Notes Page. This icon indicates that the slide contains activities created in Flash.

More information

SALINITY. It's the amount of dissolved salts the water contains.

SALINITY. It's the amount of dissolved salts the water contains. AQUATIC ECOSYSTEMS SALINITY The types of organisms in an aquatic ecosystem depend upon the water s Salinity. It's the amount of dissolved salts the water contains. Salinity determines the two main aquatic

More information

Examples of estuaries include bays, sounds, salt marshes, mangrove forests, mud flats, swamps, inlets, and sloughs.

Examples of estuaries include bays, sounds, salt marshes, mangrove forests, mud flats, swamps, inlets, and sloughs. An estuary is a partially enclosed body of water where incoming seawater is mixed with fresh water coming from the land. Examples of estuaries include bays, sounds, salt marshes, mangrove forests, mud

More information

The Composition of Seawater

The Composition of Seawater The Composition of Seawater Salinity Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water. Most of the salt in seawater is sodium chloride, common table salt. Element Percent Element Percent

More information

CHAPTER 11.1 THE WORLD OCEAN MARINE BIOMES NOTES

CHAPTER 11.1 THE WORLD OCEAN MARINE BIOMES NOTES CHAPTER 11.1 THE WORLD OCEAN MARINE BIOMES NOTES 1. The world ocean can be divided into zones both and. The,, and zones that apply to large lakes also apply to the ocean. 2. In addition to the depth zones,

More information

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts

Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution. Y11 Coasts Define the key terms: - Abrasion - Attrition - Hydraulic action - Solution Abrasion caused by waves picking up material which is forced against the cliff face wearing it away Attrition where stones and

More information

Oceans Humans both depend on it and threaten it with their activities

Oceans Humans both depend on it and threaten it with their activities Oceans Humans both depend on it and threaten it with their activities Oceans Water covers nearly ¾ of the Earth s surface More than 50% of the world s population lives within an hour of the coast Oceans

More information

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3)

1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1.5 How do ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas? (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium carbonate

More information

Questions # 4 7 refer to Figure # 2 (page 321, Fig )

Questions # 4 7 refer to Figure # 2 (page 321, Fig ) Shoreline Community College OCEANOGRAPHY 101 Fall 2006 Sample Exam # 3 Instructor: Linda Khandro Questions # 1 3 refer to Figure # 1 (page 284, Fig 11.7) 1. At which position is the moon in its new moon

More information

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift.

Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. Q1. What are the primary causes/contributors to coastal erosion at Westshore and the concept of longshore / littoral drift. In order of (timing related) contribution to present problem 1. Beach is too

More information

The Sea Geography Notes JC-Learn. JC-Learn. Geography Notes The Sea. 1 P a g e

The Sea Geography Notes JC-Learn. JC-Learn. Geography Notes The Sea. 1 P a g e JC-Learn Geography Notes The Sea 1 P a g e The Sea *Here, you can choose to study the chapter on glaciation or the one on the sea, or even both, because whenever these topics come up in the Junior Cert

More information

Coastal issues: Beaches and Estuaries. Recent Sea Level: Beaches: Baltimore D.C. Patomac R. Chesapeake Bay

Coastal issues: Beaches and Estuaries. Recent Sea Level: Beaches: Baltimore D.C. Patomac R. Chesapeake Bay Coastal issues: Beaches and Estuaries Definitions: Coast = broad zone where both marine & terrestrial processes act It includes the beach, lagoons, marshes, bars etc. Coastal processes act to shape the

More information

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby

Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Volume and Shoreline Changes along Pinellas County Beaches during Tropical Storm Debby Ping Wang and Tiffany M. Roberts Coastal Research Laboratory University of South Florida July 24, 2012 Introduction

More information

COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1

COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1 COASTAL MANAGEMENT AND PROTECTION METHODS! 1 Strategy What it does Cons Pros Examples SOFT ENGINEERING: The use of ecological principles and practices to reduce erosion and achieve the stabilization and

More information

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives

Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents. Section Objectives Chapter 22, Section 1 - Ocean Currents Section Objectives Intro Surface Currents Factors Affecting Ocean Currents Global Wind Belts (you should draw and label a diagram of the global wind belts) The Coriolis

More information

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION

DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION DUNE STABILIZATION AND BEACH EROSION CAPE HATTERAS NATIONAL SEASHORE NORTH CAROLINA ROBERT DOLAN PAUL GODFREY U. S. DEPARTMENT OF INTERIOR NATIONAL PARK SERVICE OFFICE OF NATURAL SCIENCE WASHINGTON, D.

More information

UNDERSTANDING YOUR ESTUARY Level IA- ESTUARY SEARCH

UNDERSTANDING YOUR ESTUARY Level IA- ESTUARY SEARCH UNDERSTANDING YOUR ESTUARY Level IA- ESTUARY SEARCH Kakagon/Bad River Sloughs, a Lake Superior estuary located on the Bad River Reservation near Ashland, WI. GOAL Select one Wisconsin estuary to study

More information

Australian Coastal Councils Conference

Australian Coastal Councils Conference Australian Coastal Councils Conference Kiama March 2019 Where Has My Beach Gone? (and what can I do about it?) Dr Andrew McCowan Water Technology Where Has My Beach Gone? Where Has My Beach Gone? Where

More information

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth.

OCEANS. Main Ideas. Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Oceans Chapter 10 OCEANS Main Ideas Lesson 2: Ocean Currents Ocean Currents help distribute heat around Earth. Lesson 3: The Ocean Shore The shore is shaped by the movement of water and sand. OCEANS SO

More information

Why Study Shorelines?

Why Study Shorelines? Why Study Shorelines? The seafloor is the largest part of Earth s surface. Many seafloor features and processes provide evidence of plate tectonics. Seafloor sediments and rocks are a source of several

More information

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS

Directed Reading. Section: Ocean Currents. a(n). FACTORS THAT AFFECT SURFACE CURRENTS Skills Worksheet Directed Reading Section: Ocean Currents 1. A horizontal movement of water in a well-defined pattern is called a(n). 2. What are two ways that oceanographers identify ocean currents? 3.

More information

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition

1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition CHAPTER 12 1 Shoreline Erosion and Deposition SECTION Agents of Erosion and Deposition BEFORE YOU READ After you read this section, you should be able to answer these questions: What is a shoreline? How

More information

Coastal Zones. Coastal Zones

Coastal Zones. Coastal Zones Page 1 of 15 EENS 3050 Tulane University Natural Disasters Prof. Stephen A. Nelson Coastal Zones Coastal Zones A coastal zone is the interface between the land and water. These zones are important because

More information

The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine

The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine The Sand Beaches of New Hampshire and Maine Beach Preservation and Erosion Control Photographs provided by Joe Kelly and Steve Adams Cover photo: Reid State Park, ME Introduction The sand beaches of New

More information

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches

Ocean Waves. Capillary. Gravity. Wind generated. Tides Tsunamis Seiches Ocean Waves Capillary Wind generated Gravity Tides Tsunamis Seiches Capillary waves are driven by the surface tension produced by electrically polarized water molecule San Pedro Lighthouse Waves are alternate

More information

Deep Water Currents Lab

Deep Water Currents Lab Deep Water Currents Lab Background: Anyone visiting the seashore is struck by the constant motion of water traveling on the surface of the ocean in the form of waves. But beneath the ocean's surface, water

More information

Habitat Fact Sheets. Rocky habitats are dominated by seaweeds and often mussels, which rely on the rocks for attachment.

Habitat Fact Sheets. Rocky habitats are dominated by seaweeds and often mussels, which rely on the rocks for attachment. Habitat Fact Sheets Habitats in the Gulf of Maine serve many important roles for the environment and for humans as well. These include: cycling nutrients, filtering pollution, trapping sediments, storing

More information

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE

OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE OCEANOGRAPHY STUDY GUIDE Chapter 2 Section 1 1. Most abundant salt in ocean. Sodium chloride; NaCl 2. Amount of Earth covered by Water 71% 3. Four oceans: What are they? Atlantic, Pacific, Arctic, Indian

More information

Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level

Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level Texas passes, longshore transport, hurricanes, beach erosion and sea level Richard L. Watson, Ph.D. (361) 749-4152 Field work can be strange! 120,000 years of sea level Years each zone exposed above S/L

More information

Basic Dune Physical Characteristics

Basic Dune Physical Characteristics Basic Dune Physical Characteristics New Jersey s Beach and Dune Characteristics Dunes in New Jersey are mainly confined to a narrow strip of land between the beach berm and upland development. While there

More information

Controlling Coastal erosion

Controlling Coastal erosion Controlling Coastal erosion Coastal Erosion Rates in the U.S. Coastal Erosion and Stabilization Economic pressures demanding the stabilization of beaches and coastlines are immense Coastal Erosion and

More information

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards

MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards 1 MAR 110 LECTURE #15 Wave Hazards Rogue Wave Hazard Rogue waves are very large open ocean waves of sometimes can range in height from 60 ft (20m) to120 feet (40m) and thus a significant hazard to large

More information

Types of Estuaries and Mixing Patterns. Mrs. Stahl Marine Science Honors

Types of Estuaries and Mixing Patterns. Mrs. Stahl Marine Science Honors Types of Estuaries and Mixing Patterns Mrs. Stahl Marine Science Honors Coastal Plain Form between glacial periods, when water from melting glaciers raises the sea level and floods coastal plains and low

More information

Geology of the Hawaiian Islands

Geology of the Hawaiian Islands Geology of the Hawaiian Islands Class 24 8 April 2004 Any Questions? Rise and fall of sea level and its effect on Hawai`i Sea level Has fluctuated up and down many times in the geologic past Evidence?

More information

Warm-up # 7 A day 5/17 - B day 5/18 UPDATE YOUR TABLE OF CONTENTS

Warm-up # 7 A day 5/17 - B day 5/18 UPDATE YOUR TABLE OF CONTENTS Warm-up # 7 A day 5/17 - B day 5/18 UPDATE YOUR TABLE OF CONTENTS Question: List all examples of surface water on Earth. Answer: Rivers and streams, lakes and reservoirs, (ponds) wetlands, estuaries and

More information

1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3)

1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3) 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3) 1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks. 2. Corrosion (Solution) Minerals such as calcium

More information

WHAT ARE ECOSYSTEMS? Dr. V. N. Nayak Professor of Marine Biology (Retd)

WHAT ARE ECOSYSTEMS? Dr. V. N. Nayak Professor of Marine Biology (Retd) WHAT ARE ECOSYSTEMS? Dr. V. N. Nayak Professor of Marine Biology (Retd) An ECOSYSTEM is an interacting system of plant, animals, and humans and the surrounding environment. An ecosystem contains living

More information

Coastal Processes and Landforms

Coastal Processes and Landforms Coastal Processes and Landforms These icons indicate that teacher s notes or useful web addresses are available in the Notes Page. This icon indicates that the slide contains activities created in Flash.

More information

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class

Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise. Student Activity Sheet. Name Date Class Beach Profiles: Monitoring Sea Level Rise Student Activity Sheet Name Date Class A shoreline is the area where the water and land meet. This is where we find beach: areas where sediments (sand or other

More information

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts

GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts GCSE GEOGARPHY OCR B REVISION GUIDE Coasts Definition: The interface between land and sea. Coastal regions cover only 10% of the inhabited land space, yet they are home to more than 60% of the world s

More information

Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization

Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization Estuarine Shoreline Stabilization Property Owner s Guide to Determining the Most Appropriate Stabilization Method Estuarine shorelines are dynamic features that experience continued erosion. Land is lost

More information

Ch 9: Waves. Wind waves. Formation of a wind wave

Ch 9: Waves. Wind waves. Formation of a wind wave Ch 9: Waves 1. Features of Waves 2. Deep-water, shallow water and transitional waves 3. Breaking Waves 4. Wind Waves 5. Tsunamis Cf. Fig. 9-2 Waves are created by a disturbance. * wind (wind waves, L=

More information

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides

Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Oceans in Motion: Waves and Tides Waves Waves are among the most familiar features in the ocean. All waves work similarly, so although we are talking about ocean waves here, the same information would

More information

VIMS CCRM Coastal Management Decision Tools. Decision Tree for Undefended Shorelines and Those with Failed Structures

VIMS CCRM Coastal Management Decision Tools. Decision Tree for Undefended Shorelines and Those with Failed Structures VIMS CCRM Coastal Management Decision Tools Decision Tree for Undefended Shorelines and Those with Failed Structures Center for Coastal Resources Management Virginia Institute of Marine Science Gloucester

More information

SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY SPECIAL SPRING 2018 STORM REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF THE MUNICIPAL BEACHES FOR THE BOROUGH OF STONE HARBOR, CAPE MAY COUNTY, NEW JERSEY Aerial photograph taken April 21, 2018 showing the view up the beach

More information

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction

OCEAN WAVES NAME. I. Introduction NAME OCEAN WAVES I. Introduction The physical definition of a wave is a disturbance that transmits energy from one place to another. In the open ocean waves are formed when wis blowing across the water

More information

Chapter 15. The Work of Wind and Deserts

Chapter 15. The Work of Wind and Deserts Chapter 15 The Work of Wind and Deserts Introduction What is desertification? Desertification is the expansion of deserts into formerly productive lands. These expansions destroy croplands and rangelands.

More information

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX

CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 124 CHAPTER 8 ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL VULNERABILITY INDEX 8.1 INTRODUCTION In order to assess the vulnerability of the shoreline considered under this study against the changing environmental conditions,

More information

NYS Coastal Waters. Water Resources of NYS: THE NATURE of the COASTAL ZONE. NYS Coastal Waters. NYS Coastal Atlas. Coastal Zone Management 10/10/2014

NYS Coastal Waters. Water Resources of NYS: THE NATURE of the COASTAL ZONE. NYS Coastal Waters. NYS Coastal Atlas. Coastal Zone Management 10/10/2014 Water Resources of NYS: THE NATURE of the COASTAL ZONE NYS Coastal Waters NYS is the only state to border the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes (Lakes Erie and Ontario). Great Lakes shoreline: 577 miles

More information

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment

Nearshore Morphodynamics. Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry. Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Nearshore Morphodynamics http://coastal.er.usgs.gov/bier/images/chandeleur-xbeach-lg.jpg Bars and Nearshore Bathymetry Sediment packages parallel to shore, that store beach sediment Can be up to 50 km

More information

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach.

Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches a beach. Describe how the wave changes as the wave approaches the beach. Geology 101 Name Reading Guide for Ch. 19: Shores and Coastal Processes (p. 612) Waves, Currents, and Tides (p. 614) Waves and Currents (p. 614) Imagine that you can see a side view of a wave as it approaches

More information

Waves- how are they formed and how do they affect the coast?

Waves- how are they formed and how do they affect the coast? Question 7 Coasts Waves- how are they formed and how do they affect the coast? Waves are caused by friction between the wind and water causing the water to swell. The size and energy of a wave is influenced

More information

TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines. KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability

TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines. KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability UNC Coastal Studies Institute Teacher Resources 1 TITLE: North Carolina s Changing Shorelines KEYWORDS: erosion - shorelines - mapping - sustainability Changing shorelines impact coastal infrastructure.

More information

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008

ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 ATLANTIC COUNTY 2006 to 2008 The Atlantic County oceanfront shoreline consists of three barrier islands where the northern one, Little Beach Island and a third of the second, Brigantine Island, are undeveloped

More information

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION

ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION ALTERNATIVES FOR COASTAL STORM DAMAGE MITIGATION Dave Basco Old Dominion University, Norfolk, Virginia, USA National Park Service Photo STRUCTURAL (changes to natural, physical system) hardening (seawalls,

More information

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast

The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion. The Holderness Coast The Physical and Human Causes of Erosion The Holderness Coast By The British Geographer Situation The Holderness coast is located on the east coast of England and is part of the East Riding of Yorkshire;

More information