YELLOWSTONE TREASURES. The Traveler s Companion to the National Park

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2 YELLOWSTONE TREASURES The Traveler s Companion to the National Park

3 191 To Quake Lake 287 To Idaho Falls 20 MT ID To Bozeman Gallatin River Grayling Cr. Gneiss Cr. West Yellowstone West Entrance Madison R. CONTINENTAL LOWER GEYSER BASIN MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN River Biscuit Basin Black Sand Basin 89 North Entrance Mammoth Hot Springs Jct. Electric Pk. Sepulcher Mtn. Firehole Canyon Dr. Mt. Holmes Madison Junction Gardner Ob NORRIS GEYSER BASIN sidian Cr. DIVID E Gibbon R. River Nez Perce Cr. UPPER GEYSER BASIN Old Faithful Village Firehol e To Livingston Firehole Lake Dr. Shoshone L. Gardiner Bunsen Peak Craig Pass Lava Cr. Mt. Everts Norris Jct. Yellowstone Alum Cr. Yellowsto ne R. VALLEY MUD VOLCANO AREA Fishing Bridge Jct. Lake Village West Thumb Jct. Trout R. Blacktail Plateau Drive Tower Cr. Dunraven Pass HAYDEN. Cr Hellroaring Cr. YELLOWSTONE LAKE WEST THUMB GEYSER BASIN Grant Village Tower- Roosevelt Jct. Mt. Washburn Sour Cr. of the Yellowstone Grand Flat Mtn. Canyon Canyon Jct. Bridge Bay Buffalo Pelican South Arm Cr. SPECIMEN Boundary Cr. ID WY APPROXIMATE CA LDERA MT WY Bechler R. CASCADE CORNER Fall River South Entrance Lewis Lake BOUNDARY To Jackson Lewis R. Snake Mt. Sheridan Heart Lake River

4 Cr. Slough Cutoff Mtn. Pebble Cr. Soda Butte Cr. Cache Cr. 212 Silver Gate Cooke City Northeast Entrance Abiathar Peak To Red Lodge YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK RIDGE Lamar mi Miller Cr km River Saddle Mtn. Pyramid Peak N Cr. Cathedral Peak Sylvan Pass East Entrance To Cody Southeast Arm Mt. Langford MONTANA Yellowstone R. Eagle Peak (Highest point in Yellowstone) 11,358 ft 3462 m IDAHO YNP WYOMING THOROFARE CORNER 2013 J. O. Chapple

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6 YELLOWSTONE TREASURES The Traveler s Companion to the National Park JANET CHAPPLE with geological text and advice by Bruno J. Giletti Professor Emeritus of Geological Sciences Brown University and Jo-Ann Sherwin, PhD, P. G. FOURTH EDITION Granite Peak Publications, Oakland, California

7 To my sister, Joan Orvis, whose love and encouragement have always guided my life ( ) 2002, 2005, 2009, 2013 by Janet Chapple ISBN Publishers Cataloging-in-Publication Chapple, Janet Yellowstone treasures : the traveler s companion to the national park / Janet Chapple ; with geological text and advice by Bruno J. Giletti and Jo-Ann Sherwin. Updated 4th ed. p. : cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. LCCN ISBN ISBN ISBN ISBN Yellowstone National Park Guidebooks. I. Giletti, Bruno J. II. Sherwin, Jo-Ann III. Title F722.C ' QBI All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, without prior written permission of the publisher, except for brief extracts for inclusion in reviews. Although every effort has been made to ensure that the information was correct at the time of going to press, the publisher does not assume and hereby disclaims any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information, or any potential travel disruption due to labor or financial difficulty, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. Park Historian Lee H. Whittlesey reviewed this book for historical accuracy. Editor: Beth Chapple Book designer: Alice Merrill Printed by C&C Offset Printing Co., Ltd. Published by Granite Peak Publications, Oakland, CA

8 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 10 PREFACE 11 INTRODUCTION 13 Key to the Park Roads 14 When Is the Best Time to Visit? 14 Best Sights of Yellowstone 17 Driving Distances Key to Symbols 22 THE FIVE APPROACHES TO YELLOWSTONE 23 Key to the Approach Roads 24 ROAD LOGS AND DESTINATIONS I. NORTHWESTERN SECTION 31 Approaches to the West Entrance / 31 From the West Entrance to Madison Junction / 39 From Madison Junction to Old Faithful Village / 47 Old Faithful Village / 73 Upper Geyser Basin / 80 From Old Faithful Village to West Thumb Junction / 105 II. THE BECHLER REGION 113 III. SOUTHERN SECTION 119 Approaches to the South Entrance / 119 From the South Entrance to West Thumb Junction / 127 Facilities at Grant Village / 133 From West Thumb Junction to Fishing Bridge Junction / 137 West Thumb / 137 Facilities at Lake Village / 148 IV. EASTERN SECTION 154 From Cody to the East Entrance / 154 From the East Entrance to Fishing Bridge Junction / 161 Facilities at Fishing Bridge Village / 168 From Fishing Bridge Junction to Canyon Junction / 171 Facilities at Canyon Village / 187 7

9 8 Contents V. NORTHEASTERN SECTION 189 Approaches to the Northeast Entrance / 189 From the Northeast Entrance to Tower-Roosevelt Junction / 201 From Tower Junction to Canyon Junction / 215 From Canyon Junction to Norris Junction / 226 Norris Geyser Basin / 230 VI. NORTHERN SECTION 244 From Livingston to the North Entrance / 244 From the North Entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs Junction / 251 Facilities at Mammoth Village / 257 From Mammoth Junction to Norris Junction / 269 From Norris Junction to Madison Junction / 286 From Mammoth Junction to Tower Junction / 293 NATURAL AND HUMAN HISTORY Geological History: The Stories in Yellowstone s Rocks 303 Chronology: Yellowstone Since Living Things: A Yellowstone Sampler 330 TRAVEL TIPS 356 A to Z Information 356 Useful Contacts 361 FACILITIES IN YELLOWSTONE 364 CAMPGROUNDS IN YELLOWSTONE RECOMMENDED SHORT WALKS 366 YELLOWSTONE BOOKS AND MAPS 369 GLOSSARY 373 INDEX 377 Yellowstone National Park 2 3 Key to the Park Roads 14 Key to the Approach Roads 24 Approaches to the West Entrance 30 West Entrance to Madison Junction 38 Madison Junction to Old Faithful Village 46 Maps Old Faithful Village 74 Upper Geyser Basin 83 Old Faithful Village to West Thumb Junction 104 The Bechler Region and Environs 114 Approaches to the South Entrance 118 South Entrance to West Thumb Junction 128

10 Contents 9 Approximate Locations of Yellowstone Plateaus 130 Grant Village 134 The Nine Large 1988 Fires in and near the Park 136 West Thumb Junction to Fishing Bridge Junction 138 West Thumb Geyser Basin 140 Lake Village 149 Approach to the East Entrance 154 Extent of Absaroka Volcanics 159 East Entrance to Fishing Bridge Junction 162 Fishing Bridge Junction to Canyon Junction 172 Canyon Area: Village and Falls 179 Approaches to the Northeast Entrance 190 Northeast Entrance to Tower-Roosevelt Junction 200 Tower-Roosevelt Junction to Canyon Junction 214 Canyon Junction to Norris Junction 227 Norris Geyser Basin 231 Approach to the North Entrance 245 North Entrance to Swan Lake Flat 250 Mammoth Village 258 Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces 265 Swan Lake Flat to Norris Junction 277 Norris Junction to Madison Junction 287 Mammoth Hot Springs Junction to Tower-Roosevelt Junction 292 Geological Points of Interest in and near Yellowstone 302 Three Yellowstone Ecosystems 333 Geological Figures 1. Cross section of the Yellowstone Caldera rim How does a geyser work? Map showing stream flow directions and the Continental Divide Cross sections showing the formation of the Teton Range What s under Yellowstone: Moving plates, mantle plumes, and the Yellowstone hot spot Cross sections showing evolution of the Yellowstone Caldera event cycle

11 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS It was in 1995 that I began to research and write Yellowstone Treasures. So many people have helped me in so many ways along the way that I cannot be sure to acknowledge them all. If you are one of those, please forgive the omission of your name and know that your help was appreciated. For initial and continuing help I must single out my husband, Bruno J. Giletti; editor and daughter Beth Chapple; the late Bob English, who had the original idea for this guide; and incomparable mapmaker Linton A. Brown. My thanks also goes to all the photographers and others credited on page 397. The following list includes some of the many kind, patient, and dedicated park rangers and other National Park Service, Yellowstone Association, and Yellowstone Institute personnel, as well as friends and relations whose help and encouragement has been invaluable: Holly Bartlett, Vic Benson, Sarah Broadbent, Thomas and Kathie Brock, Scott Bryan, Ed and Judy Mulvaney Bunnell, Karen Chapple, Nancy Chapple, Vanessa Christopher, Eleanor Williams Clark, Pat Cole, Mike Condon, Carol Critelli, Niklas Dellby, Ann Deutch, Duncan Foley, Donald Forsyth, David Fountain, Alan Fox, Nathan Fox, Bob Fuhrmann, Laura Giletti, David Goldberg, Bob Greenburg, Steve Gryc, Aubrey Haines, Virgil Hall, Tamsen Hert, Karl Hoppe, Tom Hougham, Tim Hudson, Jeanne Johnson, Kay and Durwood Johnson, Laura Joss, Susan Kraft, Harmon Kredit, Kathryn Kirby, Ted Koel, Greg Kroll, Catherine Lentz, Marcia and Phil Lieberman, Doug Madsen, John Martin, Cheryl Matthews, Margie and Bob McCoy, Marlene Merrill, Judith Meyer, Lisa Morgan, Lisa Nelbach, Tom Olliff, Joan Orvis, Ted Parkinson, Jim Peaco, Bev Peterson, Wayne Phillips, Anna-Louise Reysenbach, Roberta Ryan, John Sacklin, Caryl and Henry Seidenberg, Sandy Snell-Dobert, Lynn Stephens, Brian Suderman, Mary Taber, Mary Van Buskirk, Andrew Washburn, Rachel Weinberger, Jennifer Whipple, Lee Whittlesey, Marylor Wilson, and Barbara Zafft. Libraries and organizations: Brown University s Science, Rockefeller, and John Hay; Providence Public; Yellowstone Heritage and Research Center, Yellowstone Library and Archives; Geyser Observation and Study Association. Additional third edition assistance came from M. A. Bellingham, Paul Doss, John King, Barbara Lasseter, Tim McDermott, Linda Miller, Pat Shanks, Kurt Strempel, and John Tebby; fourth edition assistance from Al Hofmann, William Leidenthal, Lois Oakes, and Jo-Ann Sherwin. 10

12 PREFACE So she sat on, with closed eyes, and half believed herself in Wonderland, though she knew she had but to open them again and all would change to dull reality... Alice s Adventures in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, 1865 A late summer day begins at Yellowstone Lake. Some people in our fast-paced age make Yellowstone just one stop on a whirlwind western tour. But if you can allow several days or a week or two to savor it, Yellowstone will reward you fully. This guide is intended for such relatively unhurried first-time visitors and for the many thousands of us who return to explore anew. I am one of the fortunate few who have spent many summer months in the park, first as an impressionable small child, later as an adult who could never get enough of the Yellowstone country. My association with the park and its surrounding mountains goes back two generations to my maternal grandfather, Fred Inabnit, a Swiss native who organized hiking trips and popularized the idea of appreciating the mountains particularly the Beartooths by exploring them. He spent years constructing a relief map of the Yellowstone area, now at the Museum of the Beartooths, Columbus, Montana. After his death in 1928, a 11

13 12 Preface mountain was named for him not far from Montana s highest mountain, Granite Peak, which he just missed conquering. For four idyllic summers of my childhood I lived near Old Faithful Inn, where my father was transportation agent. My sister Joan and I played countless games of Parcheesi while waiting for Great Fountain Geyser to erupt. Once my parents got us out of bed late at night to see Giant Geyser play. I played hide and seek with Joan when most of Old Faithful Inn s guests had left for the day s excursions and Mother was rehearsing music in the lobby with the Ladies Ensemble. On rainy days, we read Frances Farnsworth s Cubby in Wonderland and Cubby Returns. Sometimes we left Daddy at his favorite hole above Firehole Cascades to catch a mess of trout for supper. Yellowstone means many things to many people: bears and bison, geysers and colorful pools, hikes and horseback rides, distant vistas and the stillness of the backcountry. It can also mean clear dry western air, spectacular sunsets, and night skies so full of stars you think you re seeing to the end of the universe. Author Owen Wister said it for me back in 1891: I have tested the power of the moon by consulting the second hand of my watch and reading a letter with rapid ease. But that s a poor mathematical way to talk or think about such magic. And all through the still air, the clean sharp odor of the sage. Not dusty, as it smells at noon, but cool, like something a fairy would give you to make you suddenly well. Nobody, nobody who lives on the Atlantic strip, has a notion of what sunrise and sunset and moonlight can be in their native land till they have come here to see. Yellowstone Park was called Wonderland by many writers in the early days, traceable to the publication of Alice s Adventures in Wonderland shortly before the park was created. Since the first Hayden Survey in 1871, scientists and other curious people have learned much about the origin of the park s wonders and how they function, but there are still countless wonders to be explained. Visitors to Yellowstone Park now span six generations, from the explorers who braved some danger and considerable discomfort, to today s backseat youngsters with their handheld electronic games. Like so many others, my parents and sister and I in the third and fourth of those generations came with a copy of the Haynes Guide in our hands. I have followed that guide s organizational plan, and I honor the memory of pioneers F. Jay and Jack E. Haynes, who, for more than 75 years, published their comprehensive guidebooks full of information about park features, animals, plants, and photography. My loving gratitude goes to my three Chapple daughters, Nancy, Beth, and Karen, for the support they gave me toward initial publication of this book.

14 INTRODUCTION Although the principal sights like Old Faithful Geyser and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone are notorious for crowds, you ll surely want to see them. But there are myriad other ways to enjoy Yellowstone. Imagine yourself walking a half mile (0.8 km) to a quiet, lily-covered lake like Harlequin Lake near Madison Junction. Maybe you d enjoy hiking or biking on a level road through untouched meadows to see an eruption of Lone Star Geyser, or waiting with other wildlife watchers for wolves to appear in Lamar Valley. Here are a few hints for maximizing your enjoyment of Yellowstone. When to go and what to see In June or September you ll find fewer people than in midsummer (see When Is the Best Time to Visit? for other seasonal information). If you can arrange your stroll around Upper Geyser Basin or the Mammoth Terraces for early morning or late evening, it may be yours to enjoy alone. Above all, what you need to truly enjoy the park is adequate time spent out of your vehicle, to observe and savor all the park s treasures. Choose among the numerous wonderful short hikes on pages Check the Best Sights of Yellowstone later in this introduction to help you plan your visit. I also list less-known places I love, none more than one-half mile (0.8 km) from a road. This road guide is designed for visitors traveling in their own or a rented vehicle or by bus, particularly during the warm months of the year, when all destinations are accessible. This is high mountain terrain, and most roads in Yellowstone are not plowed between early November and mid April. Travel in the winter season (mid December through mid March) is by snowmobile or snowcoach only and limited to a few sections of the park. Most accommodations are open from mid May or early June until mid September or early October. You ll encounter the best weather in July and August, but also the most people. Weather in Yellowstone s summers is unpredictable, ranging from hot sun to rain and hail. Lightning storms are common, especially in late afternoons. It can snow or the temperature can drop to freezing any month of the year. Safety and Hiking Remember that you must not approach or feed any wildlife in the park. Park regulations tell you, You must stay at least 100 yards (91 m) away from bears and wolves and at least 25 yards (23 m) away from bison, elk, bighorn sheep, deer, moose, and coyotes. For your safety and the animals welfare, especially 13

15 West Yellowstone 14 Introduction pp map p. 30 West Entrance North Entrance pp map p. 250 pp map p. 287 pp map p. 38 Swan Lake Madison Jct. pp map p. 46 map p. 277 pp G r a n Norris Jct. d Old Faithful Village pp map p. 104 Gardiner Mammoth Hot Springs Jct. pp map p. 292 pp map p. 227 L o o p R o a d agrand L o op Ro d pp West Thumb Jct. Tower- Roosevelt Jct. Canyon Jct. pp map p. 172 map p. 138 pp map p. 214 pp entrance road Fishing Bridge Jct. pp map p. 162 map p. 200 Cooke City East Entrance Northeast Entrance approach road N map p.128 pp South Entrance 2013 J. O. Chapple Key to the Park Roads avoid all wildlife with young. Never hike alone. Make some noise so you won't surprise an animal, and carry bear spray on backcountry hikes. When Is the Best Time to Visit? Spring May, June When the snow has melted from the lowlands and the red bison calves are trailing after their mothers, you know springtime has come to Yellowstone. TEMPERATURES: 50s 60s F (teens C) by day; 30s F (0 4 C) at night PROS: Baby animals numerous, wildflowers (at lower elevations), waterfalls at their peak

16 Introduction 15 CONS: Some mountain passes closed, biting insects common, rain common, meadows flooded, streams very high Summer July, August A time to enjoy hikes in the high country, long vigils in the geyser basins, and picnics along the riversides. TEMPERATURES: 70s low 80s F (20s C) by day; 40s F or below (below 9 C) at night PROS: Wildflowers everywhere; drier trails in mid July and August; ripening berries in August; clear, starlit nights; fishing best in late July into September CONS: Visitor numbers at their peak, late afternoon thunderstorms, potential fire danger or hordes of grasshoppers in dry years Autumn September, early October Brisk nights, cool but pleasant days, and great light for photography are some of the joys of this season. TEMPERATURES: 40s 60s F (5 20 C) by day; freezing and below at night Thimbleberries may be found along some park trails in late summer. PROS: Fewer visitors, elk gather and bugle, aspen turn golden, few mosquitoes CONS: Cold nights, greater chance of rain and snow Winter mid October through April A snowcoach can take you to Old Faithful or Canyon (December to March), where you ll marvel at the beauty of steamy pools and frozen waterfalls. TEMPERATURES: Well below freezing to a few degrees above by day; usually freezing, often below 0 F (-18 C) at night PROS: Cross-country skiing, ice-encrusted ghost trees, animals near roads CONS: Extreme cold, heavy snows and severe storms, most roads closed to cars Traveling with children Some places are dangerous for small children, and there are no playgrounds, no wading pools, no television, and very few radio stations that can be heard in the park. Be especially vigilant around the geyser basins. Stay well away from the animals they are all wild.

17 16 Introduction Before you go to the park with children let them know how different it will be, and read books and watch videos about the park. While visiting, be sure to stop frequently for short hikes and to observe anything that interests them, from moss and insects to rocks and birds. Children between the ages of 5 and 12 can become Junior Rangers. A special newspaper, available at visitor centers, guides them through the requirements, such as jotting down the animals they see and attending ranger talks and walks. In addition, three Young Scientist programs appropriate for ages 5 14 and up are available at Old Faithful and Canyon Visitor Centers (see /forteachers/youngscientist.htm). What to expect and what Yellowstone is not Yellowstone is a wonderful vacation spot for able-bodied adults and children over about five years of age. However, only a relatively small part of the developed area is accessible to wheelchairs. See Accessibility in the Travel Tips for details about what facilities and features are accessible in Yellowstone. A woman touring Yellowstone in 1912 complained to visitor L. Louise Elliott: There is such a sameness to it all.... Now, I supposed I should be seeing something different and interesting constantly without all the long, dusty rides between places. I thought the park fairly teemed with graceful fawn and antelope and other animals, and truly, I see more animals right at home in our city park, you know. Reflecting on this complaint, Elliott wrote: I understand now as I never did before why so many people are disappointed when they come here. It is because of the fact that it is called a park and they come with the expectation of seeing a man-made park, similar to those of the cities, only on a much larger and vastly grander scale; with the curiosities all conveniently grouped, and the animals collected in large numbers in enclosed corrals. They forget that it is merely a district controlled by the Government and preserved as far as possible in its wild and natural state, and that the wild animals, native to this territory, are permitted to roam at will over miles and miles of country, and that the greater part of them come down to the mainly traveled districts only when forced to do so by hunger, when the snow gets deep and the grazing poor. from Elliott, Six Weeks on Horseback through Yellowstone Park, 1913 How this guidebook is organized The five Road Logs start with the gateway communities and sights outside the park, and then follow the approach roads and then the entrance roads onto the Grand Loop Road. Consult the maps called Key to the Park Roads, page

18 Introduction 17 14, and Key to the Approach Roads, page 24. The latter map is color-coded to match the tops of the pages in the Road Log chapters. In the Road Logs, pairs of mileage indications show the distance in miles from an entrance station or major junction, as well as the distance from the other direction. Mileage figures are general guidelines; park road improvements sometimes change distances. Metric equivalents for the distances are provided in the introduction to each road segment and on the maps. Destinations you encounter along the way are described in detail as you come to them. In the hydrothermal areas, I describe only the most readily visible, historically interesting, and fascinating geysers and hot springs. Since geysers are notoriously changeable, eruption details are kept somewhat general. While no one can predict where to see wild animals, you ll find hints for finding them on some of the maps and in the Living Things chapter. Also note that you won t necessarily find a certain animal or plant near a feature bearing its name. After the Road Logs come chapters on Yellowstone's geologic past, its human history, and its flora and fauna. Practical help for planning your trip is found in the Travel Tips chapter and in the facilities and campgrounds charts. Before the index you ll find a suggested reading list, a chart of 56 recommended short walks, and a glossary of terms. New to the fourth edition: This update of Yellowstone Treasures more thoroughly reflects my lifelong interest in geology. The truly remarkable geology of Yellowstone is the foundation of all the phenomena you see and experience, from the black glassy sand underfoot to the towering lodgepole pines above. Best Sights of Yellowstone We all have our own reasons for loving the park, and rating natural phenomena is subjective. Still, for the first-time visitor I ve arranged some of the outstanding features by type, and, within each type, in order of appearance in the Road Logs. I ve only included predictable geysers, although this excludes many thrilling ones. All geysers in the list below are in Upper Geyser Basin except Great Fountain Geyser, which is on Firehole Lake Drive in Lower Geyser Basin. Ratings: Don t miss! Worth making time for or taking a detour Geyser eruptions Rangers at Old Faithful post predictions for these six geysers. Riverside, Castle, and Daisy Geysers are accessible by wheelchair or bicycle. Great Fountain Geyser, tall, exciting eruptions safe to witness at close range, page 60

19 18 Introduction Old Faithful Geyser, world famous and easily accessible, page 78 Grand Geyser, a favorite of many experienced geyser watchers, page 90 Riverside Geyser, graceful, unique, and very predictable eruption over the Firehole River, page 93 Castle Geyser, unusual for its formation and roaring steam phase, page 99 Daisy Geyser, with oblique and frequent eruptions, page 101 Other thermal areas and features Fountain Paint Pot, a loop trail that includes hot springs, fumaroles, and geysers as well as colored mud pots, page 56 Firehole Lake Drive, a short loop that includes Great Fountain Geyser, page 59 Midway Geyser Basin Loop Walk, with the largest hot features in the park: Excelsior Geyser (now dormant) and Grand Prismatic Spring, page 63 Black Sand Basin, short trail to lovely hot springs, page 70 Crested Pool, superheated and beautifully formed pool near Castle Geyser, page 100 Punch Bowl Spring and Black Sand Pool, on an extension of the trail beyond Daisy Geyser, page 102 West Thumb Geyser Basin, a beautifully situated area with brilliantly colored hot springs, page 140 Mud Volcano and Dragon s Mouth, best thermal features in the Mud Volcano thermal area, pages 174 and 175 Norris Geyser Basin, hottest and most acidic basin, page 230 Porcelain Basin vista, hot treeless plain with colorful pools, page 243 Mammoth Hot Springs Lower and Upper Terraces, a mountain of travertine terraces with ever-changing hot springs, pages and Drives and vistas Firehole Canyon Drive, falls and cascades in an interesting geological setting, page 49 View in front of Lake Hotel, beautiful lake and mountain panorama, pages Grand View, best view of Canyon colors along North Rim Drive, page 185 Inspiration Point, outstanding view of Canyon colors, page 186 Dunraven Pass and its trails, outstanding mountain pass for wildflowers and panoramas, north of Canyon Junction, page 223

20 Introduction 19 Waterfalls Artist Point, short walk to an incomparable view of the Lower Falls and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, page 182 Tower Fall, high waterfall in a dramatic rocky setting, page 219 Buildings Old Faithful Inn, immense hundred-year-old log inn that rivals its namesake geyser in beauty and interest, page 75 Lake Hotel, the oldest and most comfortable lodgings in the park in an unparalleled setting, page 152 LESS WELL-KNOWN YET BEAUTIFUL PLACES Apollinaris Spring, a verdant spot graced with historic stonework north of Norris Junction, page 281 Brink of Lower Falls, a strenuous but rewarding walk to the very top of the thunderous falls, page 184 (picture, page 185) Firehole River behind Old Faithful Geyser, where a wooden bridge crosses the stream, creating a serene spot barely away from the crowds around the geyser, page 84 (picture, page 81) Floating Island Lake, a pleasant site for bird-watching west of Tower-Roosevelt Junction, page 299 Lake Butte, an extensive view encompassing much of Yellowstone Lake and its surrounding mountains, page 166 Lamar Valley near the Buffalo Ranch area, unusually beautiful in evening light, page 208 (picture, page 207) Moose Falls, a small waterfall and tranquil site near the South Entrance, page 129 Nez Perce picnic area, by the Firehole River, convenient to Lower Geyser Basin, page 52 Yellowstone River from Chittenden Bridge, quietly flowing water just above the tumult, page 180