Overview and preview. I. Tides as Waves (really really big) What are the Forces driving these waves? II: Into make-believe.
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1 The Tides
2 Overview and preview I. Tides as Waves (really really big) What are the Forces driving these waves? II: Into make-believe. Idealized world: no land, deep water, no friction.no problems. Effects of moon, sun, gravity, centripedal force What are the main Resultant Forces? How does Earth s Rotation fit in? III: Back to the Real World: Waves part II: Effects of Continents, really big waves, and way too small oceans IV: Real World Tides
3 Local tides Notice: 2 highs and 2 Lows Unequal heights Separated by ~ 6 hrs
4 Local tides Y Axis (at left) of tide-graph: in Feet X Axis (bottom) : in time (of day) The zero = mean low water (or the datum )
5 Local tides one week How does tide graph change over time?
6 Local tides one month Notice periodicity to highs AND lows throughout a month This periodicity is caused by periodic cycles of sun and moon- and so are highly predictable
7 1. BASIC FORCES
8 Review of Tides Intro
9 We started here: Notice: 2 highs and 2 Lows Unequal heights Separated by ~ 6 hrs
10 Then- showed clear periodicity over a monthly tide cycle WHY??
11 Gravity: Directional Force Draws water toward center of moon: creates ONE BULDGE OF WATER that tracks moon
12 Centripetal Force
13 Centripetal Force: Think of Water in a swinging bucket Creates SECOND BULDGE OF WATER on the others side!
14 On the earth, it s the earths gravity that are acting as bucket walls
15 Resultant Forces=> opposite sides of moon
16 The Double Bulge!
17 II: THE EQUILIBRIUM MODEL of TIDES
18 Now Imagine. Effects of Rotating Earth No land. Deep water. No friction.
19 Rotating Bulges! What would a stationary observer see?
20 Result: 2 Highs, 2 Lows! (as rotating earth turns under the bulges of water)
21 Bulges follow the moon- thus they move what is called a LUNAR day Moon falls behind the earths rotation by about 10 degrees/ day = about 50 minutes of time ( we say: Lunar day is 24 hrs and 50 minutes long ) times of highs and lows are just about 50 minutes LATER every day
22 Santa Cruz tides 7:44 am 8:42 am 9:45am Note highs and lows just ~ 50 mins later every day!
23 But what about the sun??
24 Sun vs. Moon- Sun s effect smaller, but important
25 Battle of the Bulges. Where Monthly cycles in tide Heights come from
26 Spring Tides = Bulges ADD Full or new moons (not necessarily in the spring time)
27 NEAP Tides = Bulges subtract Ie: Quarter moons (Bulges out of phase)
28 Santa Cruz tides NEAP Half moon SPRING (Full moon) Notice periodicity to highs AND lows throughout a month
29 In summary of Equilibrium Model of Tides: 1. Balance of forces =>> Bulges Gravity and Centripetal 2. Rotating Earth: Rotating bulges.. Or waves! 3. Sun + Moon: Battle of bulges Monthly Tide cycles- Bulges add or subtract = strong vs weak tides
30 III: COMPLICATIONS in the REAL WORLD
31 Declination = ~ angle of moon vs. earth And it changes every month!
32 Declination effect=> latitude variation in tides
33 Another view: why characteristically different tides w/ latitude Result: latitude variation
34 Complication 2 : Seasonal Effects of orbit shape
35 Super moons full moon ~ at perigee ` 15 % brighter than typical Full Moon!
36 Complication 3: What happens in real ocean basins? Wave Speed Tide bulges slowed down by ocean bottom Continents & ocean basins Always something in the way - Restricted ocean basins causes the tide bulges to bounce back and forth.. Like standing waves in a bucket
37 ==> Amphidromic cells - Tides revolve around a single point where the water level does not change known as the amphidromic point
38 World tidal ranges are thus highly variable in LOCATION - due to basin shape as well.
39 diurnal - one a day semidiurnal - two highs and lows of exactly the same height mixed - variable height between low and highs (what we have)
40 Types of tides through monthly cycle
41 Localized Real world: Topography and coast shape is very very important in two ways
42 Complication #4: Effects of Land shapes. A) Restricted Topography = very intense tidal flows- ie tides amplified greatly relative to the open coast.
43 Topography II: The exact SHAPE of a coastal location, such that local Wave Interference (adding and subtracting) is created.
44 Local Wave Interference (adding and subtracting) This can create huge tide ranges, like in the Bay of Fundy 45 foot tides!
45 1 Declination of moon.==> Bulges (tide strength) Skewed with Latitude. Also changes throughout the month! Summary of Real world complications 2. Elliptical orbits => sun vs earth distance changes in summer vs winter ==> ==> Size of Bulges (tides heights) changes with time of year: 3. Amphidromic cells: Ideal Tide waves are trapped inside restricted ocean basins set up standing waves sloshing back and forth ==> actual tides experiences in different ocean regions are very different- even if ALL driven by same sun /moon cycle. 4. Land effects: constriction or positive interference can amplify tides GREATLY
46 END
47 Tidal Bores? The Severn River Bore in England
48 *Advancing tide wave moves up river at up to 20 + mph!
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52 Aside II: Tide Tables: Ultimate Real World Test
53 Tide Tables: Ultimate Real World Test Why are tide tables so exact? (years into future!) Can predict major forcing functions (sun, moon, earth postions) totally precisely. THEN make lots of measurements to determine what other factors may influence a given location.
54 1873 British- first tide-predicting machine Used wheels and pulleys to model 10 oscillating componentsand traced result on paper!
55 1910 US version. 37 components
56 1910 US version. 37 components
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